I got my TR160 MK4 a few days ago and the assembly went without any problems, all my aluminum profiles were clean and so no metal flakes, so far I don't regret the purchase. I had a Motedis Dram-s before and you can already tell the difference , the best example was the pedal deck on the old one I had slight flex, on the TR160 there is no flex at all, its rock solid, and The T-Nut have now also Ball Spring;-) so with the MK4 they Adressed quite all Complains 🙂
Hay bud. I also go my TR160 and no metal flakes and also ball bearing t-nuts and I’ve also got the new upgraded side (red) wheel deck mount that add height to the wheel deck and so glad they did as I would be hitting my knees on my Alpha U as I had to get the seat adaptor add on that ada about 3 inches of height.
I own the TR160 for 5 months now and I'm loving it. Looks great, feels great, high quality. I have the GT Seat on it and funny enough I found it pretty comfortable. I can sit and race in it for hours straight without issues. I can highly recommend this rig. You will never be in need of anything else again.
I have the TR120 for half a year now.Nothing but happy returns from it.If you get a standalone triple monitor stand from TR make sure you get the one with longer horizontal beam and the addon feet are good if your house/flat is old and the rig needs to be adjusted to be horizontal plus if it is a wooden floor they protect it if you need to move the rig when upgrading it.
Always the best gear reviews. Helpful (e.g. wheel base and pedal mount info) and honest (e.g. don't get the seats). It's like having a mate own the rig and have them tell you their honest opinion.
Just purchased a TR160 Mk4 (current iteration) a couple weeks ago. The profiles are much cleaner now for the cockpit rails. The monitor stand rails still use older stock that are filthy with shavings however. The T Nuts have also been swapped to the spring ball variety and with a few exceptions managed to reach the full depth of the channels. The instructions are still pretty spotty however and have lots of small issues where things don't correspond to reality.
Im considering ordering but would love if you could someone send me pics so I can see. I recently build a wood setup and am looking for this setup which should be amazing.
Hey Dan. First of all, I got a kick out of having you zoom past me in the Drive for Wishes race on the weekend. I was in the Boosted Media Merc GT3. I've been using a TR160 for a couple of years also. I've also been upgrading my rig over the last couple of years. I had the same horrible experience as you with metal shavings with the original rig. But at least with the profile they ship from their Australian warehouse for the upgrades I've bought, they are properly cleaned these days. Also they recently changed to the good ball spring T-nuts recently. I'm really happy with the TR160 personally, especially the upgradable aspect.
Dan I got my TR160 Last week and built it over the last 3 days and I did not get a single metal flake. I’m in the UK so maybe they got rid of the metal flakes. Also I got the new t-nuts with the ball bearing and they do move but fit ok. Also I got the new red side mounts that now add the height for the wheel deck. As I had to order the seat adapter for my own recliner it added a lot of height so I’m glad track racer sent me the new design of the wheel side mounts. The sliders on the side wheel deck mounts are now on the bottom and the 3 nuts that the extrusion goes into are now on the top.
Thanks for the review. I have a tr160 and love it. But I agree with you on the t-nuts from trak racer (the kind without the balls but instead the metal wings). I bought a bag of ball-style t-nuts as they are far easier to remove if you change the rig around a lot. The t-nuts with the metal wings are nearly impossible to remove once the rig is assembled and you can’t slide them in/out from the open end of the profile. Also on the tr120 vs tr160, I ended up liking the 160 as I wanted to add motion and having a rectangular shape was a better choice for the actuators versus the 120 where it has that kink in the middle of the long side so the rig dimensions are not the same on each end. The other thing I wish they offered was a floor plate to go right in front of the pedal deck to hide stuff under the rig (usb hubs, motion system stuff, etc) and put your feet on. I bought one of those from GT-omega as a reviewer there said it fits the tr160/tr120 out of the box. But the amount of other options is great from trak racer and just about every use case is there for what you might want. Oh and yes the seat is just ok (rally style) and it’s next on my list to get a better seat from a dedicated seat manufacturer.
I downloaded the TR160 manual and ordered all the same profiles from a local supplier in anodized black but in 120. Then ordered hardware, the TR1 Fanatec DD mount, the TR pedals plates, and the TR triangle mounts for the uprights. I would have just ordered the TR120 but it’s not available where I am. All and all very happy.
The metal shavings are a good point to bring up, especially if u have indoors pets who could potentially eat and digest these metal shaving. Took me ages to make sure the floor was completely clean of these shavings before the dog was allowed into my room. Also, I have the original TR160 with intergrated triple stands and even with a SC 2 pro, I have ZERO wobble or shake in my monitors. I have even tested by placing my hands on the mounts and rails that hold up my monitors during heavy FFB and you can't even feel any vibration coming through from the wheel base. It gets absorbed well before it can affect the integrated monitor stand.
I personally have a 40x40 alu profile rig and even that is enough to have no noticable flex when using an Asetek Forte set to 15nm of force. And I usually drive it at 9-10nm with the smaller diameter of the X-29. I got this because I needed a portable rig that can be shoved out of the way when I use the room as a normal living room, but I have to say if I would get a dedicated rig with a triple screen setup I think a 40x80 like the TR80 Lite or the Sim-Lab GT1 Evo is enough for 80% of the people. Of course, if you mount a ton of stuff for streaming an even sturdier rig is useful, but for most that just use a DD with a torque of 10-15nm, maybe a shifter/handbrake and a keyboard/mouse tray, 40x80 is plenty
i have a mixture of 80x40 for the floor and wheel, the rest is 40x40, build for 250€, i also bough some really big angle connectors, there's zero flex at the wheelbase with these.
I ordered a shifter mount add-on for my TR80 with the BF sale, and it came with ball style T-nuts, so they must be listening to feedback. Also the TR80 has been rock solid running my VRS base and HE Sprint pedals, probably more than enough for anyone except maybe running motion.
Very nice guide. Thanks! I am just considering TR160 and was hesitate to get TR 120 instead. I'm wondering if it is worth to wait for black friday to order it.
What about the inverted pedal plate? Why did you skip it? Iam going to build a rig and this would have been very helpful since I’m thinking about going for the p1000 inverted pedals.
The swifel keyboard tray is imo perfect for people who have the keyboard incl mouse since its flat surface. Now i dont swifel mine at all its not needed so cant say any about it getting loose every time. Just wanted to point out a pro for this tray. Also wanted to give a thumbs up for the recliner seats. Maybe they arent suited for 80kg plus and heavy load cell settings but for me 75kg and 45kg LC its great !
i have a tr80 mkv wich is super sturdy... i mounted a nlrv3 seatmover on it and a sfx150 chassismover with a really really agressive motionprofile... absolutely no flex under heavy motion and really light for faster motion response... i can 100% recommend the rig... the pedalplate is a pain to adjust but once set its absolutely sturdy... i can lift the whole rig (wich got really heavy because of all the added hardware) by grabbing it on the pedalplate and there is zero flex to it too... my seat is a sparco rev... im a small person so it fits for me perfectly but most of you maybe need a little bigger seat... shipping from trakracer to austria was superfast and the price for the tr80 is very fair compared to other rigs...
Fwiw, the T nuts of the new kits are the ball springs, and I did experience the shavings issue in 2022 with my monitor mounts but the TR120 I got in 2023 had no issues with shavings so they might have improved both those counts.
Exactly my experience. The Aluminum is too soft. And I had the problem that many holes where wrong drilled. Not a big issue for me since I could correct this but not everyone have a workshop at home… Beside this I love my TK 160 even after 2 years. About the seat: I changed to an Omega Pro. The one from Trak Racer was really not that good. Unfortunately the Omega Pro is a bit wide, but super comfortable.
I'm sorry if you've answered this already, but would you mind sharing what sort of wheel base mount you're using? Currently considering flipping the mounting of the uprights to the inside of the base and getting the GT1 evo front mount from Simlab (not a fan of the look of the one from trakracer) but would highly appreciated another recommendation.
I built my rog earlier this year. A TR160. They have adressed some of these things. The t nuts were nice. Abd the prifilr gas veen cleaned and there were no metal shavings
Regarding the t-nuts with the ball bearing @3:13 - when I got my TR160 about a year ago, most of the ball bearing t-nuts that I received worked fine, but a few of them didn't fit properly as you described. The t-nuts with the leaf spring are terrible.
Yeah I sold my Gt Omega Prime Lite to get the Trakracer TR 160 and as soon I hit buy the website refreshed, it was back to 789 Euros and out of stock...I'm just an unlucky bastard.
Nice video as always, Dan! Thanks for talking about your long term experience. I would like to share my experience, too: TR160MK4 User for almost exactly one year. Mine had t-nuts with spring loaded balls, not these flex springs on the side, and although there were a small amount of t-nuts that had drilled holes but were missing the windings... well, TR is not ungenerous with this, so I have a shitload of t-nuts, I could make a borg cube out of this rig if I had enough profiles sitting around, hehe. In terms of addons... I kinda agree with Dan here... I have this keyboard-tray with the long swivel arm.... and yes, I use it all the time and blablabla, but Dan is exactly right, some screws will get lose in a relative short period of time. That's because the hinges that are being provided are - in my opinion - wrongfully constructed: they simply are two parts with two rounded plates each, with a hole for countersunk head screws on one hinge, the other having the drilling for the screw. But if you screw them together, of course you can't fully tighten them as it couldn't swivel around. And the friction between the screwhead and the hinge plate will lead to the screws being loosened over time, depending on how often and 'violent' you swivel your tray around. So I am also not a big fan of it, but actually as of now I have been too lazy to do something about it... I thought about putting some heavy screw glue on so the screws would be in a fixed position. But frankly I think getting some proper hinges will be the way to go. Other than this major flaw I like the tray, because I can put the keyboard almost as a small desk in front of me, allowing me to write long texts like this without too many sacrifices in comfort (because of course this is not a proper replacement for a good desk) or I can play other games using mouse/keyboard. By the way, I use the mouse side mount, even with a shifter, a handbrake AND a somewhat large button box, that is in an angled position, all on the right side, and due to my seat sliders, I can go back with my seat and reach my mouse ergonomically fine. It's not perfect, but it's good enough and I have my arm in an even more relaxed position than on some desks. And for most games that don't have proper triple support it really doesn't matter were exactly you sit in terms of proper distances and whatnot. Concerning the caster wheels... well, I use them, and I have an Asetek Invicta wheel base in use, and yes, it can get violent sometimes, hahaha. But the caster wheels never gave me an issue with my rig moving. Of course it will move slightly over time, but I don't have to adjust the rig position on a daily, weekly or even monthly basis. But I also kinda agree with Dan, there are far better options if you search for other caster wheels. There are for example some, that have retractable wheels. So you move the rig into position and instead of fastening some stupid brake plates you simply turn a hand screw which will retract the wheel upwards and the rig will stand on proper feet (I think there are even rubbered ones, or they can be further dampened for a little help with decoupling for buttkicker usage etc.). About the pedal plate... yeah, I had to drill it for my Invicta pedals, but it wasn't really an issue for me (because I am an electrician, not an engineer, harrr yurrr 🌝). But I fully agree with Dan here. Not only is it super heavy - but given that, it has really ALMOST zero flex... it's super minor, I only noticed on cam footage and I REALLY put a lot of force onto my brake, like I probably don't do even in emergency brake situations. But with my Invicta pedals the predrilled holes are pretty useless. But I didn't really know until I had the pedals (I was simply too lazy to check the measurings, because... well, I have a decent drill, hehehe). On the long run I will very likely swap that for the aluminium profile version... and this one is very likely far more sturdy. I only have to look, if this is compatible with the pedal plate slider... which is basically like the seat slider, only that it is quite sluggish in comparison, which is by design, so that there is the least amount of play possible. And it works. Yes, the slider introduced a certain amount of flex, but it is also unoticable like the tiny flex of the plate, and the benefit is if you have visitors, in combination with the seat slider you can adjust the rig quickly for them without having to adjust the wheel mount (but most sane persons won't do wheelbase adjustements for them anyway, will they, hehehehe). Another thing concerning the sturdiness, 120 vs 160... also I agree here. But I personally didn't by the 160 because I wanted a tank of a rig (which it basically is). I wanted the advantage to gain in height. So the seat is in a proper chair height, making it easier to get in and out. But you have to take into account the height of the verticals and the size of your monitors if you have a separate monitor stand (which I also highly recommend, so that the monitors are not impacted by FFB). I think it is super comfortable this way. About the seat... I had the GT-style seat in use until August, then I swapped it for a RCC seat, which is a proper bucket seat... super sturdy, almost no flex, and yet super comfortable. If you want to save money on seats... you can go with the TR GT-style seat (if that's the seat style you want). Dan said he found it not too comfortable, but I really liked it... it has major flex though, I was curious about it, filmed myself during driving and even on not braking into ABS it moved for about 5cm seen on the head rest. So Dan is right, only select those seats, if you want to save money and upgrade later on. But frankly for less than 300 Euros (you have to take shipping into account, super expensive because seats are big and weigh more than 5kgs) it is quite OK, you can sit long hours in it and although it flexes quite a bit, you really don't notice that much if you are focused on driving, so for the money they are fine.
Рік тому
Looking at a very similar setup now, how did you end up mounting the base? trak racer wheel or going the asetek front mount for extra 130eur?
@ I use the Asetek front mount. You have to be aware, that the wheel base can be a bit low, which you can mitigate by different methods: - Before Asetek released the Universal QR, opening it's system up for third party wheels, I used the red plates of the Fanatec DD mount which I used before the Asetek wheel base to extend the Frontmount and put it a bit higher up and closer to me. I did this because I didn't want to have the wheel sitting too low and I didn't want to put the vertical profiles of the rig too close to the seat, as getting in and out of the rig would have been less comfortable. - After release of the mount I swapped the Forte Formula Wheel - not because it's bad or anything, but I planned on getting a high end wheel anyway before Asetek announced their stuff end of last year. And this led to better possibilities: I put away the red extension plates and put the front mount back, so the wheelbase is under my center monitor. I tilted the base at about 20°, because my monitors are 43". With 32" monitors I could have the center right above the wheelbase almost were the QR wheelbase side is, but with 43" I need to put to monitors about 20cm further away. And I use the 150mm shafts on both my wheels (I have a formula/GT-style wheel and a full rim 320mm-wheel). This allows me to have the wheels at a proper distance and angle, while countering the disadvantage of a front mount, that most of the time can only be mounted as high as the vertical profiles. So, if you want to have the Wheelbase higher than the vertical profiles are on your rig (for example for F1-seating position or a generally more reclined seating position), I suggest having a mount were the wheel base is bolted on to from underneath. You could also try to bring the vertical profiles one or two slots upwards, this should be possible on a TR160 without having too much issue. But I personally wanted to take full advantage of the higher stability of the 4-slotted 90° brackets, with which the vertical profiles are bolted to the 160mm bottom frame. The Invicta base is quite powerfull and even if you set it on low FFB in sims, the high slew rate of this wheel base can generate quite some quick movements.
Thank you for the info, Dan. You recommended getting the aluminium profile with the heel plate, but I can't find anywhere if this will support the Fanatec V3 Inverted pedals? If anyone installed it, please put a picture, I wanna see what it looks like to make sure I choose the best option for the pedal mount.
Hello Dan I am currently looking at the track racer tr160s and the aluminum padel tray with heal rest is currently out of stock but the pre drilled plate is in stock. Do you I should wait until late August for the aluminum padel tray with heal rest or should I buy just buy the tr160s with pre drilled plate for the paddles
I got the rally seat, but it was to small. The seat narrows on the top, so my shoulders got squeezed. Think it would be fine if you are 175 cm or shorter
I had a nextlevel racing f-gt cockpit and I changed a lot of things kinda recently (you can imagine as my first rig, everything was in the wrong place for the first time) and each time I changed, I slightly damaged the rig. I deformed the aluminiums with the screws, paint on the screws falled off, also I completly destroyed many screws by re-screwing them in and out. Not to mention even if I screwed it with all my force, a month later the screws loosened and the rig started to rattling because of the ffb (i used it with fanatec dd). My question is: do you have any of this type of problems with tr160? Or the nextlevel racing f-gt was just simply that bad quality?
I’ve had this happen with pretty much any aluminum rig - they often come with really shitty quality t nuts. Paint and finish wearing also is pretty normal and my rigs typically look like shit after a year or so since I adjust a lot of stuff because of the reviews
@@DanSuzukiHi Dan, how would u compare the NLR ES1 with a regular bucket seat? I have the trakracer GT...is the NLR noticable more comfortable? Especially for longer sessions. Cheers
TakRacer stuff is decent. Just never buy direct from them because their customer service department is non-existent. I ordered a TR160 in December 2021 and 4 weeks later (with zero information) a TR80 arrived.
Man that’s awful! I’ve had customer service experiences like that from some companies. I have to say GT omega is probably the best I’ve received in terms of fast and accurate shipping of relevant items. It Canada at least.
I wanted this rig like a few yrs ago but they don’t ship to Hawaii. So i had no choice but to buy Rseat and it only charged me $50. Im not sure now if they can ship here. I really want an aluminum profile rig cause i like to add and modify stuff every once in a while. If you know any company that sell profile rigs and ships to Hawaii let me know.
I have a TR120 I bought this year, It came with like 5 of the weird T nuts and the rest were the ball detent style. Edit: also have you seen any concerns using bass shakers with the PC shelf? I was worried it would shake my PC apart.
Thanks for the video, do the side mounted uprights make a massive difference? i still have a Motedis rig where the uprights are mounted on the base-frame profiles and i am debating if it makes sense to adapt my current rig
How so? Would you care to elaborate, because i can't think of any issues with mounting on top. Especially if you have a shifter support on the sides @@DanSuzuki
I’d say simlab as it looks a bit more modern, on the other hand I just built a NLR F-GT 160 and kinda hate my life with those slanted profiles, it offers no benefits apart from looks and makes mounting stuff super complicated … so yeah I don’t know 😅
11 місяців тому
@@DanSuzuki ended up getting P1X Pro. I at least don't plan for a lot of accessories up front nor sharing that much hardware. DaveCam's review recent review swayed me towards Sim-Lab
@@DanSuzukihi Dan. Did you have issues with the profiles blocking you view/monitor? Just ordered one and wondering if that issues a deal breaker. Thank you. love all the insights you sharing
Trak Racer has the worst customer service I have ever experienced. There was a critical part missing and they closed the ticket after months without rectifying. There are many companies that make close to identical frames. I would go with anyone but Trak Racer.
This Company is complete utter shit, they do not reply to emails about your order they have screwed up after taking your £900, you are left with half the Box's, they send them out willy nilly as they like... Good LUCK
Horrible company to deal with in regards to communication, i bought the TR80 Lite i asked to swap out pedal deck and wheel mount which they "agreed" and charged me for it yet i received the standard setup. Cannot get no reply from emails, unable to call due to hearing loss. T-Nuts are ball bearing type now but they're still junk, the recesses don't sit in the profile grooves indefinitely so if you don't have the feel for doing them up they'll jump out and sit crooked. Every t-nut i filed
Product itself is solid but I agree, their communication is literally rubbish. Tr80 mark 5 is not compatible with the pedal slider, I wrote them a short summary what happened and the solution….no response
I just got a TR120 and I can confirm now the profiles come all clean and very well protected, 100% scratches free 👍
Me too - look delivery of it last month, no metal shards at all. Also had the ball-spring t-nuts rather than the leaf-spring ones.
@@maximumduncan YES! same, got the ball t-nuts too 👌🏻👌🏻
I got my TR160 MK4 a few days ago and the assembly went without any problems, all my aluminum profiles were clean and so no metal flakes, so far I don't regret the purchase. I had a Motedis Dram-s before and you can already tell the difference , the best example was the pedal deck on the old one I had slight flex, on the TR160 there is no flex at all, its rock solid, and The T-Nut have now also Ball Spring;-) so with the MK4 they Adressed quite all Complains 🙂
T- Nuts with Ball Bearings? :P
@@DanSuzuki yeah Googel Translate :-P but you know what i mean 😅
Hay bud. I also go my TR160 and no metal flakes and also ball bearing t-nuts and I’ve also got the new upgraded side (red) wheel deck mount that add height to the wheel deck and so glad they did as I would be hitting my knees on my Alpha U as I had to get the seat adaptor add on that ada about 3 inches of height.
I own the TR160 for 5 months now and I'm loving it. Looks great, feels great, high quality. I have the GT Seat on it and funny enough I found it pretty comfortable. I can sit and race in it for hours straight without issues. I can highly recommend this rig. You will never be in need of anything else again.
What pedal mount plate did you get? I’m confused on what to buy
@@MkZoki I have the pre drilled plate and I’m happy with it.
I have the TR120 for half a year now.Nothing but happy returns from it.If you get a standalone triple monitor stand from TR make sure you get the one with longer horizontal beam and the addon feet are good if your house/flat is old and the rig needs to be adjusted to be horizontal plus if it is a wooden floor they protect it if you need to move the rig when upgrading it.
Always the best gear reviews. Helpful (e.g. wheel base and pedal mount info) and honest (e.g. don't get the seats). It's like having a mate own the rig and have them tell you their honest opinion.
I have 2 rigs from track racer. The tr 80 and tr 120. Both serve their purpose extremely well.
Just purchased a TR160 Mk4 (current iteration) a couple weeks ago. The profiles are much cleaner now for the cockpit rails. The monitor stand rails still use older stock that are filthy with shavings however. The T Nuts have also been swapped to the spring ball variety and with a few exceptions managed to reach the full depth of the channels. The instructions are still pretty spotty however and have lots of small issues where things don't correspond to reality.
Im considering ordering but would love if you could someone send me pics so I can see.
I recently build a wood setup and am looking for this setup which should be amazing.
Hey Dan. First of all, I got a kick out of having you zoom past me in the Drive for Wishes race on the weekend. I was in the Boosted Media Merc GT3.
I've been using a TR160 for a couple of years also. I've also been upgrading my rig over the last couple of years. I had the same horrible experience as you with metal shavings with the original rig. But at least with the profile they ship from their Australian warehouse for the upgrades I've bought, they are properly cleaned these days. Also they recently changed to the good ball spring T-nuts recently. I'm really happy with the TR160 personally, especially the upgradable aspect.
Dan I got my TR160
Last week and built it over the last 3 days and I did not get a single metal flake. I’m in the UK so maybe they got rid of the metal flakes. Also I got the new t-nuts with the ball bearing and they do move but fit ok. Also I got the new red side mounts that now add the height for the wheel deck. As I had to order the seat adapter for my own recliner it added a lot of height so I’m glad track racer sent me the new design of the wheel side mounts. The sliders on the side wheel deck mounts are now on the bottom and the 3 nuts that the extrusion goes into are now on the top.
Thanks for the review. I have a tr160 and love it. But I agree with you on the t-nuts from trak racer (the kind without the balls but instead the metal wings). I bought a bag of ball-style t-nuts as they are far easier to remove if you change the rig around a lot. The t-nuts with the metal wings are nearly impossible to remove once the rig is assembled and you can’t slide them in/out from the open end of the profile. Also on the tr120 vs tr160, I ended up liking the 160 as I wanted to add motion and having a rectangular shape was a better choice for the actuators versus the 120 where it has that kink in the middle of the long side so the rig dimensions are not the same on each end. The other thing I wish they offered was a floor plate to go right in front of the pedal deck to hide stuff under the rig (usb hubs, motion system stuff, etc) and put your feet on. I bought one of those from GT-omega as a reviewer there said it fits the tr160/tr120 out of the box. But the amount of other options is great from trak racer and just about every use case is there for what you might want. Oh and yes the seat is just ok (rally style) and it’s next on my list to get a better seat from a dedicated seat manufacturer.
TR160 is a great rig. I’ve had it over a year now with integrated 32 in triple monitors and no discernible shake.
I downloaded the TR160 manual and ordered all the same profiles from a local supplier in anodized black but in 120. Then ordered hardware, the TR1 Fanatec DD mount, the TR pedals plates, and the TR triangle mounts for the uprights. I would have just ordered the TR120 but it’s not available where I am. All and all very happy.
The metal shavings are a good point to bring up, especially if u have indoors pets who could potentially eat and digest these metal shaving. Took me ages to make sure the floor was completely clean of these shavings before the dog was allowed into my room.
Also, I have the original TR160 with intergrated triple stands and even with a SC 2 pro, I have ZERO wobble or shake in my monitors. I have even tested by placing my hands on the mounts and rails that hold up my monitors during heavy FFB and you can't even feel any vibration coming through from the wheel base. It gets absorbed well before it can affect the integrated monitor stand.
I personally have a 40x40 alu profile rig and even that is enough to have no noticable flex when using an Asetek Forte set to 15nm of force. And I usually drive it at 9-10nm with the smaller diameter of the X-29. I got this because I needed a portable rig that can be shoved out of the way when I use the room as a normal living room, but I have to say if I would get a dedicated rig with a triple screen setup I think a 40x80 like the TR80 Lite or the Sim-Lab GT1 Evo is enough for 80% of the people. Of course, if you mount a ton of stuff for streaming an even sturdier rig is useful, but for most that just use a DD with a torque of 10-15nm, maybe a shifter/handbrake and a keyboard/mouse tray, 40x80 is plenty
i have a mixture of 80x40 for the floor and wheel, the rest is 40x40, build for 250€, i also bough some really big angle connectors, there's zero flex at the wheelbase with these.
I ordered a shifter mount add-on for my TR80 with the BF sale, and it came with ball style T-nuts, so they must be listening to feedback. Also the TR80 has been rock solid running my VRS base and HE Sprint pedals, probably more than enough for anyone except maybe running motion.
Hey there, does TR80 has same pedalboard as TR80 lite? Does it flex?
@@117simracing8 mine is actually the TR80 light, I don't notice any flex, I have a set of HE Sprints with HE baseplate.
@@goonie1975 thx for sharing the info. A flexing pedal board is the only thing with this rig i am/was afraid of.
I have the TRX and I like it a lot. It looks good in my house and it is a great rig.
The racingcockpits keyboard tray fits a 65% keyboard perfectly and it swivels in two places to have it right in front of you or off to the side.
Very nice guide. Thanks! I am just considering TR160 and was hesitate to get TR 120 instead. I'm wondering if it is worth to wait for black friday to order it.
What about the inverted pedal plate? Why did you skip it? Iam going to build a rig and this would have been very helpful since I’m thinking about going for the p1000 inverted pedals.
Another good food, very informative. Thank you.
The swifel keyboard tray is imo perfect for people who have the keyboard incl mouse since its flat surface. Now i dont swifel mine at all its not needed so cant say any about it getting loose every time. Just wanted to point out a pro for this tray.
Also wanted to give a thumbs up for the recliner seats. Maybe they arent suited for 80kg plus and heavy load cell settings but for me 75kg and 45kg LC its great !
i have a tr80 mkv wich is super sturdy... i mounted a nlrv3 seatmover on it and a sfx150 chassismover with a really really agressive motionprofile... absolutely no flex under heavy motion and really light for faster motion response... i can 100% recommend the rig... the pedalplate is a pain to adjust but once set its absolutely sturdy... i can lift the whole rig (wich got really heavy because of all the added hardware) by grabbing it on the pedalplate and there is zero flex to it too... my seat is a sparco rev... im a small person so it fits for me perfectly but most of you maybe need a little bigger seat... shipping from trakracer to austria was superfast and the price for the tr80 is very fair compared to other rigs...
Fwiw, the T nuts of the new kits are the ball springs, and I did experience the shavings issue in 2022 with my monitor mounts but the TR120 I got in 2023 had no issues with shavings so they might have improved both those counts.
What are you thoughts on the inverted pedal plate? Is it just personal preference, or would the inverted plate potentially have more flex?
Exactly my experience. The Aluminum is too soft. And I had the problem that many holes where wrong drilled. Not a big issue for me since I could correct this but not everyone have a workshop at home… Beside this I love my TK 160 even after 2 years.
About the seat: I changed to an Omega Pro. The one from Trak Racer was really not that good. Unfortunately the Omega Pro is a bit wide, but super comfortable.
I'm sorry if you've answered this already, but would you mind sharing what sort of wheel base mount you're using?
Currently considering flipping the mounting of the uprights to the inside of the base and getting the GT1 evo front mount from Simlab (not a fan of the look of the one from trakracer) but would highly appreciated another recommendation.
I built my rog earlier this year. A TR160. They have adressed some of these things. The t nuts were nice. Abd the prifilr gas veen cleaned and there were no metal shavings
I got a trakracer TR80 last week and it came with the t-nuts with the spring ball FYI. This is in Australia though
Same here with my TR160 purchased a year ago.
Dank Dir :) Stand gerade vor der Wahl TR160 oder TR120.
GT Omega Prime here and it is solid, clean on arrival but same thing, I would look for a seat elsewhere.
Regarding the t-nuts with the ball bearing @3:13 - when I got my TR160 about a year ago, most of the ball bearing t-nuts that I received worked fine, but a few of them didn't fit properly as you described. The t-nuts with the leaf spring are terrible.
Yeah I sold my Gt Omega Prime Lite to get the Trakracer TR 160 and as soon I hit buy the website refreshed, it was back to 789 Euros and out of stock...I'm just an unlucky bastard.
Nice video as always, Dan! Thanks for talking about your long term experience. I would like to share my experience, too:
TR160MK4 User for almost exactly one year. Mine had t-nuts with spring loaded balls, not these flex springs on the side, and although there were a small amount of t-nuts that had drilled holes but were missing the windings... well, TR is not ungenerous with this, so I have a shitload of t-nuts, I could make a borg cube out of this rig if I had enough profiles sitting around, hehe.
In terms of addons... I kinda agree with Dan here... I have this keyboard-tray with the long swivel arm.... and yes, I use it all the time and blablabla, but Dan is exactly right, some screws will get lose in a relative short period of time. That's because the hinges that are being provided are - in my opinion - wrongfully constructed: they simply are two parts with two rounded plates each, with a hole for countersunk head screws on one hinge, the other having the drilling for the screw. But if you screw them together, of course you can't fully tighten them as it couldn't swivel around. And the friction between the screwhead and the hinge plate will lead to the screws being loosened over time, depending on how often and 'violent' you swivel your tray around. So I am also not a big fan of it, but actually as of now I have been too lazy to do something about it... I thought about putting some heavy screw glue on so the screws would be in a fixed position. But frankly I think getting some proper hinges will be the way to go. Other than this major flaw I like the tray, because I can put the keyboard almost as a small desk in front of me, allowing me to write long texts like this without too many sacrifices in comfort (because of course this is not a proper replacement for a good desk) or I can play other games using mouse/keyboard.
By the way, I use the mouse side mount, even with a shifter, a handbrake AND a somewhat large button box, that is in an angled position, all on the right side, and due to my seat sliders, I can go back with my seat and reach my mouse ergonomically fine. It's not perfect, but it's good enough and I have my arm in an even more relaxed position than on some desks. And for most games that don't have proper triple support it really doesn't matter were exactly you sit in terms of proper distances and whatnot.
Concerning the caster wheels... well, I use them, and I have an Asetek Invicta wheel base in use, and yes, it can get violent sometimes, hahaha. But the caster wheels never gave me an issue with my rig moving. Of course it will move slightly over time, but I don't have to adjust the rig position on a daily, weekly or even monthly basis. But I also kinda agree with Dan, there are far better options if you search for other caster wheels. There are for example some, that have retractable wheels. So you move the rig into position and instead of fastening some stupid brake plates you simply turn a hand screw which will retract the wheel upwards and the rig will stand on proper feet (I think there are even rubbered ones, or they can be further dampened for a little help with decoupling for buttkicker usage etc.).
About the pedal plate... yeah, I had to drill it for my Invicta pedals, but it wasn't really an issue for me (because I am an electrician, not an engineer, harrr yurrr 🌝). But I fully agree with Dan here. Not only is it super heavy - but given that, it has really ALMOST zero flex... it's super minor, I only noticed on cam footage and I REALLY put a lot of force onto my brake, like I probably don't do even in emergency brake situations. But with my Invicta pedals the predrilled holes are pretty useless. But I didn't really know until I had the pedals (I was simply too lazy to check the measurings, because... well, I have a decent drill, hehehe). On the long run I will very likely swap that for the aluminium profile version... and this one is very likely far more sturdy. I only have to look, if this is compatible with the pedal plate slider... which is basically like the seat slider, only that it is quite sluggish in comparison, which is by design, so that there is the least amount of play possible. And it works. Yes, the slider introduced a certain amount of flex, but it is also unoticable like the tiny flex of the plate, and the benefit is if you have visitors, in combination with the seat slider you can adjust the rig quickly for them without having to adjust the wheel mount (but most sane persons won't do wheelbase adjustements for them anyway, will they, hehehehe).
Another thing concerning the sturdiness, 120 vs 160... also I agree here. But I personally didn't by the 160 because I wanted a tank of a rig (which it basically is). I wanted the advantage to gain in height. So the seat is in a proper chair height, making it easier to get in and out. But you have to take into account the height of the verticals and the size of your monitors if you have a separate monitor stand (which I also highly recommend, so that the monitors are not impacted by FFB). I think it is super comfortable this way.
About the seat... I had the GT-style seat in use until August, then I swapped it for a RCC seat, which is a proper bucket seat... super sturdy, almost no flex, and yet super comfortable. If you want to save money on seats... you can go with the TR GT-style seat (if that's the seat style you want). Dan said he found it not too comfortable, but I really liked it... it has major flex though, I was curious about it, filmed myself during driving and even on not braking into ABS it moved for about 5cm seen on the head rest. So Dan is right, only select those seats, if you want to save money and upgrade later on. But frankly for less than 300 Euros (you have to take shipping into account, super expensive because seats are big and weigh more than 5kgs) it is quite OK, you can sit long hours in it and although it flexes quite a bit, you really don't notice that much if you are focused on driving, so for the money they are fine.
Looking at a very similar setup now, how did you end up mounting the base? trak racer wheel or going the asetek front mount for extra 130eur?
@ I use the Asetek front mount. You have to be aware, that the wheel base can be a bit low, which you can mitigate by different methods:
- Before Asetek released the Universal QR, opening it's system up for third party wheels, I used the red plates of the Fanatec DD mount which I used before the Asetek wheel base to extend the Frontmount and put it a bit higher up and closer to me. I did this because I didn't want to have the wheel sitting too low and I didn't want to put the vertical profiles of the rig too close to the seat, as getting in and out of the rig would have been less comfortable.
- After release of the mount I swapped the Forte Formula Wheel - not because it's bad or anything, but I planned on getting a high end wheel anyway before Asetek announced their stuff end of last year. And this led to better possibilities: I put away the red extension plates and put the front mount back, so the wheelbase is under my center monitor. I tilted the base at about 20°, because my monitors are 43". With 32" monitors I could have the center right above the wheelbase almost were the QR wheelbase side is, but with 43" I need to put to monitors about 20cm further away. And I use the 150mm shafts on both my wheels (I have a formula/GT-style wheel and a full rim 320mm-wheel). This allows me to have the wheels at a proper distance and angle, while countering the disadvantage of a front mount, that most of the time can only be mounted as high as the vertical profiles.
So, if you want to have the Wheelbase higher than the vertical profiles are on your rig (for example for F1-seating position or a generally more reclined seating position), I suggest having a mount were the wheel base is bolted on to from underneath. You could also try to bring the vertical profiles one or two slots upwards, this should be possible on a TR160 without having too much issue. But I personally wanted to take full advantage of the higher stability of the 4-slotted 90° brackets, with which the vertical profiles are bolted to the 160mm bottom frame. The Invicta base is quite powerfull and even if you set it on low FFB in sims, the high slew rate of this wheel base can generate quite some quick movements.
Thanks for the info@@TobiwanKentobiSimracing !
is it possible to use a keyboard tray from another company? since you mentioned the holes drilled are deeper and they use other t-screws?
Thank you for the info, Dan. You recommended getting the aluminium profile with the heel plate, but I can't find anywhere if this will support the Fanatec V3 Inverted pedals? If anyone installed it, please put a picture, I wanna see what it looks like to make sure I choose the best option for the pedal mount.
What seats do you recommend please?
Hello Dan I am currently looking at the track racer tr160s and the aluminum padel tray with heal rest is currently out of stock but the pre drilled plate is in stock. Do you I should wait until late August for the aluminum padel tray with heal rest or should I buy just buy the tr160s with pre drilled plate for the paddles
I got the rally seat, but it was to small. The seat narrows on the top, so my shoulders got squeezed. Think it would be fine if you are 175 cm or shorter
Should I install 3 40-inch 4K or ARP HD screens?
Some have tried the tr160 S, I'm in doubt whether to buy the tr160S or the tr160 mk4
Can you get handbrake and sequential good position/to the height?I have handbrake and sequential height 30cm long
I bought tr120 but it was not instock in the site i ordered it from... so i got tr160 mk4 w alot of upgrades so now im trying to figure out what i got
I had a nextlevel racing f-gt cockpit and I changed a lot of things kinda recently (you can imagine as my first rig, everything was in the wrong place for the first time) and each time I changed, I slightly damaged the rig. I deformed the aluminiums with the screws, paint on the screws falled off, also I completly destroyed many screws by re-screwing them in and out. Not to mention even if I screwed it with all my force, a month later the screws loosened and the rig started to rattling because of the ffb (i used it with fanatec dd). My question is: do you have any of this type of problems with tr160? Or the nextlevel racing f-gt was just simply that bad quality?
I’ve had this happen with pretty much any aluminum rig - they often come with really shitty quality t nuts. Paint and finish wearing also is pretty normal and my rigs typically look like shit after a year or so since I adjust a lot of stuff because of the reviews
@@DanSuzuki do you think it’s better in the trx cockpit?
What seat have you got mounted ? Looks like the NLR ES1
Correct, awesome seat!
@@DanSuzukiHi Dan, how would u compare the NLR ES1 with a regular bucket seat? I have the trakracer GT...is the NLR noticable more comfortable? Especially for longer sessions. Cheers
Really appreciate your advise as Im currently concidering what to buy. . Many thanks . .
Can the tr160 accommodate the NLR ES1 seat on top of the adjustable rails? Thnx
I wish there were more options like this one in Brazil :(
TakRacer stuff is decent. Just never buy direct from them because their customer service department is non-existent. I ordered a TR160 in December 2021 and 4 weeks later (with zero information) a TR80 arrived.
Man that’s awful! I’ve had customer service experiences like that from some companies. I have to say GT omega is probably the best I’ve received in terms of fast and accurate shipping of relevant items. It Canada at least.
Why did you skip the hybrid pedal plate?
I wanted this rig like a few yrs ago but they don’t ship to Hawaii. So i had no choice but to buy Rseat and it only charged me $50. Im not sure now if they can ship here.
I really want an aluminum profile rig cause i like to add and modify stuff every once in a while.
If you know any company that sell profile rigs and ships to Hawaii let me know.
I have a TR120 I bought this year, It came with like 5 of the weird T nuts and the rest were the ball detent style.
Edit: also have you seen any concerns using bass shakers with the PC shelf? I was worried it would shake my PC apart.
I have the PC shelf mounted to the monitor stand so no problems there
You forgot to include an affiliate link for the TR60.
Hey is the trak racer 160s new or old cockpit
Thanks for the video, do the side mounted uprights make a massive difference? i still have a Motedis rig where the uprights are mounted on the base-frame profiles and i am debating if it makes sense to adapt my current rig
yes, it makes a huge difference
How so? Would you care to elaborate, because i can't think of any issues with mounting on top. Especially if you have a shifter support on the sides @@DanSuzuki
does anyone have a discount code? I want to buy the rs6 + rally seat. Thank you
Different seat?
@DanSuzuki what would you choose TR160 or the new P1X pro?
I’d say simlab as it looks a bit more modern, on the other hand I just built a NLR F-GT 160 and kinda hate my life with those slanted profiles, it offers no benefits apart from looks and makes mounting stuff super complicated … so yeah I don’t know 😅
@@DanSuzuki ended up getting P1X Pro.
I at least don't plan for a lot of accessories up front nor sharing that much hardware.
DaveCam's review recent review swayed me towards Sim-Lab
@@DanSuzukihi Dan. Did you have issues with the profiles blocking you view/monitor? Just ordered one and wondering if that issues a deal breaker. Thank you. love all the insights you sharing
no, the monitors sit above the rig!@@ssheng
@@DanSuzukithank you. Hope there’s a f-gt elite review coming! 🙌🙏
Trak Racer has the worst customer service I have ever experienced. There was a critical part missing and they closed the ticket after months without rectifying. There are many companies that make close to identical frames. I would go with anyone but Trak Racer.
This or SimLab P1X Pro?
Both are good, I don’t really like those slanted uprights but if you don’t have to mount a ton of stuff to it it’s not really an issue
What if I told you I’m starting a channel called “Steve Yamaha”…… or even “Bill Honda”. 😂
Calling my lawyer right now! 🤣
My gt seat starts flexing at 40kg brakeforce. Absolut dogsh.t this seat...
This Company is complete utter shit, they do not reply to emails about your order they have screwed up after taking your £900, you are left with half the Box's, they send them out willy nilly as they like... Good LUCK
Horrible company to deal with in regards to communication, i bought the TR80 Lite i asked to swap out pedal deck and wheel mount which they "agreed" and charged me for it yet i received the standard setup. Cannot get no reply from emails, unable to call due to hearing loss. T-Nuts are ball bearing type now but they're still junk, the recesses don't sit in the profile grooves indefinitely so if you don't have the feel for doing them up they'll jump out and sit crooked. Every t-nut i filed
Product itself is solid but I agree, their communication is literally rubbish. Tr80 mark 5 is not compatible with the pedal slider, I wrote them a short summary what happened and the solution….no response
Very common complaint regarding their communication on their own Facebook group and other groups.
I was recently in Australia and ordered some Trak Racer parts and their customer service was great. Really good communication and service.