It is good info. If you type the name of the car and copy paste авто стронг, you will find youtube channel that is even more detailed in their reviews. They even disassemble the engine. You will have to turn the subtitles on, it is not in english, but it is worth it.
Worked for Fords back in 2007 and when I left I factory ordered a Foc 1.6 Titanium Saloon. Still got it now and use as a second car. It’s on 58k miles now, ultra reliable and still has the same battery on it hitting 16 years. I do a service every year even though it does about 300 miles a year. The only issue it ever had was the rear breather flaps seized and it let water in the boot but changed them and all ok. We call her old faithful and she has aided jump starts to newer BMW’s on the street😂. Not planning on ever letting her go.
mk2.5 cc variant here with a 2.0 petrol bought at 72k miles and now at 102k, instrument cluster cracked soldering issues started at 88k miles after 13 years (all lights would come up and sometimes prevent the car from starting) and one of the ignition coils went out at 95k miles (fuel in one of the cylinders wouldn't get spark), button for the boot worked intermittently until it died close to 100k. That being said, these were not difficult to fix myself and parts are cheap so I'm a happy owner.
I've owned my 2007 1.8 tdci zetec climate sportspack from new, Ive had none of the issues mentioned which just goes to prove the point of maintenance, no matter how well you buy 2nd hand it'll never quite be the same as knowing everything that's ever been done to it and any issues it's ever had.( History and receipts will never truly prove this) If any of the faults were actually by design I'd of had them but as I said I haven't and it's purely down to how well it been maintained Past owners who were careful and vigilant will always be a lottery purely based on luck when buying 2nd hand but at the end of the day it's what everything will depend on no matter how well you inspect your potential purchase. Great vid.
I want to buy a car aftrr my fiat stilo jtd 2003 that served me for 10 years since i bought it on used cars place... Now its time for another car, i have choice (money budget) between ford focus 2 1.6 tdci 66kw 2009 year and fabia 2 1.4 tdi 2007 same range price, both estate, caravans how we call it. I heard fabias are more realiable, but its boring inside for me, ford is better but im afraid i will have much more problems with it😥.... Cause they are used cars, and who knows how previous owners took care.. +i heard ford is more sensitive... Im stuck in thinking🥴🥴
I own 2009 2.0tdci with powershift automatic gearbox. The car had 130k km when i started driving it now it has 330k km. Serviced gearbox (oil and filter change every 80k km) no problems with gearbox. This box is wef clutch and is more reliable then the newer ones with dry clutch. Also regular engine oil change 8 to 10 k km (dpf specific oil needs to be used). And have no problem with engine, turbo or dpf. Only recomend to clean intake manifold every 60- 80 k km. Propper maintanance prevents big problems. Reliable good car.
Very helpful video well done. I own a mk2.5 focus from 2009 for 2 years now and its been the most reliable car I have ever owned. I tend to do quite high miles each year and to be honest I haven't done much to the car apart from suspension work and a new MAP sensor but thats about it. The 1.6tdci is very economic and provides just enough power to overtake, always starts on the button even in very cold conditions its never let me down. Defiantly highly recommended
I own a 2008 pre face-lift 1.8tdci I've done the front pads once and rear pads once and 2 sets of tyres and a set of wiper blades. It's on a 57 plate and I bought it July 2008 so it was around 6 months old and £9,250 9k on the clock. Still have it now. No rust engine runs great. At one point the engine would not rev I changed the fuel filter and its been fine since.
The 1.6 tdci apart from the 1.0 eco boost is the worst engine that Ford had 15 or so years ago many were repaired under warranty because Peugeot sent rubbish build quality engines over to Ford turbos were the worst culprit dpf clogs up wrecking the turbos costing nearly a grand to replace the 1.8 engines are much better and double the mileage
@@stuartpace6111 I do a lot of miles in my 1.6tdci and it’s been very good never gave any issues at all touch wood . As for the DPF issue that’s common amongst people who do short journeys and don’t build up the revs enough between gears , I’ve never had a dpf issue at all and I’ve had loads of diesels
My 2010 Focus Estate has the drivers footwear filling up with water. After a lot of investigation, it turned out to be the rubber seal where the steering column goes through the floor. Quite an expensive job to have done, but since then the drivers footwell has been dry This was a right hand car.
I own the 2009 MK2.5 Petrol Auto 2.0L Issues I have it with are a cracked front grill, rattling air bag/dash area and alloys get kerb rashes easily. I woul suggest anyone buying it to put palstic alloys on top of your alloys to protect them. Plastic alloys are £20 for 4 while powdercoating an alloy costs £90 per alloy! The 2.0L is powerful and quite nippy and you can speed up and change lanes and zigzag between traffic with it's 145BHP engine. However, it comes at the expense of drinking too much petrol! The same journey between a 1.6L and a 2.0L Focus shows that the 2.0L drinks a quarter tank more petrol. But, it is a lovely speedyc ar and a joy on motorways.
I’m on my second mk2.5 1.8 petrol. First one had to go to heaven at 154k miles, had 34k on it when i bought it. Absolutely reliable, cheap to run, great drive. Most expensive garage job was replacing the catalytic converter. Do my own oil changes at 6 months in between garage services, change spark plugs and air filter if needed. For some reason i can’t explain, the second one has never blown a bulb in over 18months I’ve had it the other one seemed to go through them regularly. If you can get one with FSH i don’t think there’s a better value for money second hand car
Had a 2011 1.6 sport for eleven years and have to say it was the most reliable car I've ever owned. Only issues I had were windscreen technician snapping the key off in the bonnet lock and a minor water leak into the boot from the tailgate hinges, unfortunately when out of warranty. But all in all a great little car.
Another common problem with these Focuses (and in fact most Fords from the mid-late 2000s) is that after about 12-15 years, the soldering on the instrument cluster circuit boards starts to go bad and crack. This leads to problems starting the car, the car going into limp mode, instrument panels and warning lights lighting up like a Christmas tree and all the needles going wild. You'll likely get some kind of CAN Bus error if you scan it with an OBD code reader. It's not a particularly hard fix, but you do need to pull the instrument cluster out, open it up and pull the circuit board out. You'll then need to re-solder the cracked pins before putting everything back together. I've had to do this fix on 3 Focuses with 06-09 plates in the last year. These cars are getting to the age now where this is becoming a more common problem.
I just had to do this to mine. Car would throw either a Engine Malfunction warning and not start, or the same warning would pop up, the dash would go crazy, then go into reduced acceleration mode although still drive. The ESP light would stay on. Cycle the ignition and the car was fine for a bit. One trick to tell if its the the solder is when the malfunction happens, slap the top of the dash above the cluster and this would bring the clocks back to normal. I did this and then the car would start.
There are a couple of companies which remanufacture Focus instrument clusters at reasonable cost, with a quick turnaround: ECU Testing and Actronics. Actronics will not deal with individuals, but have an extensive network of recommended garages who understand these issues: my neighbour (high-mileage Focus 1.8 Zetec) got good service from one, after his regular servicing garage failed to diagnose the problem with his instrument cluster.
Fabulous video, I've had my 2010 focus 1.6 mk2.5 petrol automatic since 2011 it's now on 112k regular oil changes and good maintenance will pay. I had the timing belt done 12 months ago its also important to change the serpentine belt as well as the AC belt. I had both replaced last week . I was only charged £30 for fitting both. These rubber belts also dry out and can break resulting in no Warter pump & powder steering..
I've had the Ti-VCT 1.6 Petrol with an LPG conversion for four years and have driven 70k with it. The only expense I've had has been minor maintenance. It's been incredibly reliable.
Had an LPG conversion on mine. Head gasket blew at 210k miles and honestly have gone through about 8 coil packs in 2 years but other than that. Great car. Hopefully get another 200k on the clock. Great video.
Me too, had 100.000km with the lpg system. Changed 3 fuel pumps, had my exhaust valves adjust before closing completely. It's sure isn't an lpg friendly car. Maintenance adds up...
We have a mk2.5 Focus Titanium that we inherited from my Wife's Father (he bought it new). And although it's starting to look a little tired now (121k) it's been a great car and has really been all we've ever needed. A pair of wings and a rear arch/sill repair will have it looking ship shape again. A few points missed though:The rear springs have a tendancy to snap and you need to replace the drop links at the same time (it's a pain if you don't). The rear upper shocker mounts are also a weak spot and snap at the mount (making a simply awful clunk once they've gone). The boot lid trim (where the badge is) on the mk2.5 also snaps at the mount and they are near impossible to find second hand (ours was duck tapped on for quite a while until I came up with a solution). The rear axel bushes can fail after a while too and although not expensive, you need a special tool to fit them and the job is awful. Front lower suspension arms are also a weak point (ball joints) but are cheap enough and pretty easy to replace (just don't waste your time trying to replace just the Ball Joint as it's an awful job). Our front exhaust mount snapped last year but a spot of weld had it good to go again.
Had 06 plate for 10 years, sold it in 2019 with over 240k on clock, no major issues in that time. Rotting bodywork forced me to sell but best car I've had in over 30 years of driving
I bought my 2009 diesel 1.6 focus in April 2021 and I covered 55 thousand by the time I owned it for a year and all the issues I had was battery and your usual service bits but that's 5 and a half years of driving in one year and not a major issue. I got the EGR and DPF delate I would recommend that its one less bill in the future. my car has 157k on it and I'm still getting 56-58MPG its a great car in the process for saving for an ST love these cars.
After almost 10 years of daily driving my Focus MK2 I can confirm that water leaking into the trunk, water from the AC collecting in the footwell and the instrument cluster going whack and needing to be resoldered are indeed the most common problems of these cars. But it's all fixable and aside from that it's a great and reliable car. Looking forward to driving it until either it or I potentially die.
And be cautious for sunroof models. The draining tubes are wackily narrow and are tend to be clogged often, in turn you likely end up with rainwater on your seats and footwells of either side.
And the powershift is a bit jerky. The powershift in the larger cars like the mondeo actually have oil that should be changed at 30,000miles and are much smoother. The powershift in the smaller models doesn't have oil.
I still own a 2010 MK2.5 with 4 speed automatic gearbox and it has been just perfect. It only has 87K miles, and I don’t plan on changing it. I’ve just ordered a multimedia screen to give it a more modern interior.
If you are looking at a high spec model with headlights that turn when you turn the steering , they play up and cost £1300 quid each , then you need to get them fitted and coded to the car . I had an 1800cc petrol many years ago , it was quite good .
Had a Mk2.5 2008 1.6 Zetec 100bhp. Loved it, was great for the first year and was never right after that. Exhaust manifold developed a hole, instrument cluster soldering needed re-done and pipework for power steering had to be completely changed. May have just been my luck as my dad had a Mk1.5 that was faultless. Ended up selling after the instrument cluster had a complete breakdown. Put me off buying another Ford again sadly
Mk 2 1.8 petrol - ECU failed ( needed complete reflow and reprogram ) Dash failed ( needed complete resolder ) oil cap disintegrated ( had to replace ) gearbox, casing and clutch imploded & then exploded out driving at 30mph ( fatal differential pin flaw that means its time rather than care before it falls out and destroys everything - owned since brand new and was dead by 55,000 miles. The only good thing about this car was the engine ( that's because FORD did not make it, its made by MAZDA ! ) Also owned a 1.9tdi VW Passat from the same era - now at 190,000 miles and nothing has ever gone wrong with it mechanically, just rust issues - still on original clutch too
I just had the instrument cluster done on my 2010 Zetec. Five minutes to remove it, send to Essex Recon, back in 48 hours and 5 minutes to refit. It costs about £120 to do it yourself, all you need is a Torx T 20. Drop and pull back steering wheel adjustment, lock in place. Remove dust cover. Remove 2 torx screws. Pull out cluster. Unplug cluster. Send to Essex Recon. Put it back in. Bobs yer uncle!
@jockpike considering all the other jobs I had to get done to the car, the instrument cluster just felt like insult to injury. All things that shouldn't have gone wrong but did. My sister's 2008 fiesta has been the exact same, Ford has honestly become "fix or repair daily" in my house. Wouldn't even consider another one :(
Hello from Malaysia. My 2010 2.0 Ford Focus drive like a dream. Planted. However, had not been the most reliable. Had the tranny rebuilt, brake, ABS and radiator fan replaced. Now working on replacing the shocks. Car has only 78k km on it. Can’t sell as it is now worth like than a scooter.
I had a mk2 focus for 8 years loved the car and do miss it , i now got a mk4 focus 2018 which i had for the last 2 years , in all honesty i perfer the mk2 , they have a enough mod cons on them reliable and easy and cheap to repiar , the main reason why i think the mk2 is better car is that 1.6 zectec engine , ford should never off got rid of the zetec for those 1 litre eco boost engines. Yer the eco boost does 70 MPG however the zetec does around 55 MPG and is far more reliable engine. The bonnet release broke on my mk2 however it was a easy and cheap part to replace.
I own a 2006 mk2 1.6L 100 hp estate since new and the only two problems it has now 17 years later (developed over this last year) is the reverse gear switch failed and it's starting to leak at the rear left pillar, pretty common problem apparently, both are in your list. Will need to fix that soon... Other than this it was very reliable and completely uneventful apart from normal replaceable parts that needed to be changed (timing chain once, battery twice, spark plugs, once break disks and pads once, rear shocks once, then tires and bulbs).
I have a mk2 focus cc Diesel. 167k miles 2007 and still going strong. Engine gets serviced regularly but being in Cornwall the suspension takes a beating so have to fix a few things every few years.
We had two of these,a 1.8 and a 2.0 both petrol. The 2.0 was both better on fuel and more economical. Unfortunately the 2.0 developed an oil consumption issue at 85000 miles due to sticking piston rings (known issue) 1 litre would be burned every 400 miles or so. Mine also had a lot of rust develop on the front wings and on the inner parts of the rear arches.
Some good information to know. I've got a 1600 Automatic 2011 and have only had the bonnet issue and small leak in boot. Really love the drive and comfort which is why I've kept so long. Probably keep until it o me dies 😀
Is yours a petrol or diesel? I stupid chose a corsa over one of these and had nothing but trouble with it. I'm looking at getting of these for a few years before I get a new one
don't forget the sneaky trick ford did on the 1.8tdci 2009/ 10, they fitted a rubber timing belt inside the engine to drive the fuel pump, nobody knew about it, until it snapped at 100k and totally destroyed your motor. it is really an engine out job to do it, cost me over 1k, as i needed a new clutch at same time
I've had 09 1.6 petrol from 4 years old, its done me no harm, reliable, will keep until it dies...gets everything done to it as and when, doesn't do any great distances...
Great video, thanks! My son's Focus has an intermittent rattle from around the exhaust, - could you let me know how to find the eBay part (bracket?) that you mention?
1.6 2008 Focus 115k and the only problem was an intermittent dead electrics and occasional limp home problem, which was all fixed with a new starter motor. The only problem on the horizon is rear suspension and coil springs on the way out. My mechanic said that lot would cost around 1k to fix...and I have no intent on buying a newer car.
I had a 1.6 Focus mk2.5 from 2011 to 2019. I did regular (10 month) oil changes on it and it had a set of plugs every 3 years. Brake discs and pads at 55,000. Timing belt at 65k. The onky problem I had was the power steering line cracked and lost fluid but this was suspiciously close to the belt change. Otherwise, totally reliable. The mpg wasnt great (42-46 avg) but it was a heavy car and a 1.6. Only got rid of it as someone hit it and it was written off.
Great video, but there's one thing you've missed. The dashboard on the 1.6 petrol has a common issue where the connections come adrift, which lead to the car going into limp mode (or even stopping). I had one and after months of either just bashing the dashboard or jump starting it as it was going down the road (after it cut out) to restart it, I ended up selling the car for a song. They guy that bought it sorted it out by removing the dash and re-soldering the various connections. Saying that, I would have another.
Wish I’d read this before buying one last week - I’m having the exact same problem right now. Everything else seems fine with it so I reckon that’s the issue!
You forgot the front wing bottoms go too ,as like the sills, anything under those platic trims is at risk, not just the front section of the front arch like you mentioned, rear of rear arch isnt really worth even mentioning as again its the front of the rear arch by the sills that the problems will start long before the rear of it is ever of any real concern, worth noting also that dpfs only fitted to mk2.5 models so no probs on any diesel mk2 😊
The Reverse light no working is an MOT failure surely, so it's only a point for negotiation in a private sale. Commercial Dealers would have to fix that before offering it for sale.
I think the reversing light not working was only a failure on cars manufactured from 2009 onwards, as I had a 2002 Focus that passed MOT and the light didn't work.
You didn't mention the rear subframe, I have a 2011 1.6 petrol that needed a new one to pass MOT. All sorted now and went straight through after that, but it's not cheap and something to look out for. Apart from that that, it's a fantastic car, and should last for many more years now.
Tbh that's very unusual, yeah the bottom arms can get a bit scabby but usually they are replaced because the bushes go before they are actually structurally compromised by rust
Great Video, very comprehensive. I have a 2011 1.8 with only 65k on it. I noticed the bonnet was becoming difficult to open so took it to a garage before it became un-openable, if it does, they need to remove the grill. Can you do a video about sorting the leak in the boot please.
I'm returning to the uk in January, thinking about a mk3 focus diesel , I would like a jaguar xf sport break bit my insurance I would imagine would be a little steep so a mk 3 focus diesel will have to do for a while, would love a review 😀 on one of those
Good video. My son and his fiance intend to buy a 2.0l petrol Focus Titanium Wagon 2006 (manual transmission) as their first car (22.12.2005 launch date). Driven 254k km. We went to see the car. Seemed to be in good shape for its age, both inside and out. We drove a small test run (freezing -10 degrees). What do you think? Service history was. Parts renewed. The price was not bad at all.
@@lewistillett206 Yes. The car is good to drive. I have now driven it myself for just under a week because my own car is being serviced to change the coolant hose (the hose is not available in all of Finland) Ordered from Germany. 😆
I just bought a 2011 Titanium, would love to see more about leaks in the boot area and how to fix them. Main pain in the ass is that the cigarette lighter is live at all times on these too. Like given.
Please i need help with my MK2 1.6 2011 model. The information cluster screen light remains on even when the vehicle is switched off and locked. How do i turn the information screen off when not in use.
Heh, this confused me a fair bit too when I first got the car. It will go off after like 5 minutes or so. Not sure what the point of it staying on is. Another thing that kinda confused me was the capless fuel tank, never seen that before and wasn't sure if it was supposed to be like that ;)
Hi hello I have a ford focus zetec 209 petrol and like you said the front hanging parts on exhaust has broke what part number do I order on eBay thank you god bless hope you can help me ???
I’m confused by the actuator thing on the 1.6 Ti-VCT. Will this definitely fail, what happens and what does the repair entail? I understood these were very robust engines.
I had a Mk2 1.6VVT for 15 years. The issues I had were the leaking windscreen washers (easy fix), water leaking in the boot (never really solved that), water pump leak (£200 replace). Washer tubes blocked. The engine, gearbox was fine at 60,000 miles. Good car but it was time for something newer.
2010 2.0tdci here. 150,000 mls still going well. Had to change turbo 3 years ago thankfully no re-occurance but I will check injectors now you've recommended. Also ive had no Spf problems despite doing mostly short trips. Read various opinions on forums saying it was an optional extra on this engine. Which wiukd explain why ive never had issues or would it be what you said the ceramic dpf? First ive heard of it. Still love my mk2. And gonna keep it running until she dies of old age.
Not all the autos are PowerShift. some are the more traditional and much more reliable torque converters. You also forgot to mention the 2.5 litre Volvo engines that were available in the ST (known as the XR5 in Australia and New Zealand) and the RS
last year i bought 05/06 Sedan, with the 1.6 Ti-VCT engine at 214k km (now at almost 219k).. im a city driver and dont drive insanely often.. the previous owner was horrible with taking care of the car.. within my time of owning i chugged almost about the same amount i paid for it (1500 euros) into the car.. dead cat. converter, several o2 sensors (before i eventually found out it was the CAT all the time), rusty spark plugs and coil pack dying (didnt fix the rain water leak) and more ... i've almost made the car reborn i feel like :D (drives much better than it used to) .. but im still having 1, in the future major, issue, and that is an oil pressure leak .. at the moment the mechanic measured it only on idle when fully warmed up (before the pressure was lower also in higher revs) .. dunno the exact numbers of the top of my head but for the purpose of understanding .. on idle i should have 1 bar of pressure but in reality i have about 0.85 - 0.9 bar .. in revs the pressure is normal.. what could it be ? the whole timing assembly is new (vct stuff included), oil pump, oil pressure sensor, plugs+cables+coil pack.. for now it drives fine, but sooner or later it'll get suddenly worse and the expenses will be insane - basically a complete engine rebuild (refurbish)
Mk2.5 is how the post-facelift Mk2 (2008-2010) is often referred to. It's almost the same, just some small changes, most notably the front of the car (headlights, grille, bumper) is a bit different and more in line with the newer Ford design style. The car in the video is the post-facelift Mk2, so what you would consider a Mk2.5. The Mk3 is a completely new generation with a different design that was made between 2010 and 2019.
very helpful. ive had only a few small issues. sometimes the boot latch will keep firing for no reason, once it even drained the battery it was going so long. then it stopped. not sure how to fix it. then i noticed some water under the spare tire, must be a little leak around the boot area. The biggest issue for me has been the seat belt chime going off constantly. any ideas for fixing that would be great. i've the mk2.5 and based on forums i've found, it can't be disabled
Good recommended use Ford focus 1.6 or 2.5 petroil engines or Diesel 1.9 2.0 2.5 sport 3.0 But manual transmision gearbox. Manual gearbox save engines . Long manual gearbox work 100.000 km renove oil and use special sport oil 80w90 👍😎 again 100.000km travel drive But use Autematic transmision gearbox recommended 5000km renove oil and oil gearbox filtr. But not Hard work Autematic gearbox. Economy variant. Hard work manual gearbox transmision forever
1.6 from 2009 bought with 180k, now at 240 and still going strong (after changing 2 injectors, intercooler pipe, alternator, dual mass clutch, engine mounts, and various sensors) Wouldn't recommend
Hi I know this isn't a mech chat room but ur vid shoes u know ur stuff. I have a 2011 1.6 diesel focus When driving for about 20 mins or staying at 50 for a bit, when changing down or needing to speed up I find I have no boost it just loses its umph. I find this is resolved by turning key quickly off an on when driving or stopping and restarting. And the boost is back. I have had the egr replace, but I still get this prob. Any advice would be helpful.
I have got a ford focus 2009 model, same as the car in the video. It uses diesel. Currently the car has a transmission malfunction issue. Car still drives. The car jolts and occasionally, there is reluctance to accelerate at low speeds (0 to 30 km/hr) then the transmission malfunction appears on the dashboard. Any advice on how to resolve the issue. Thanks
Yes it's probably good as long as its not abused, I've owned a 2010 focus automatic since it was virtually new. You should have a separate transmission fluid dipstick ,check the level with the engine running at normal running temperature. If you treat it with respect it should be fine.
1.4L at 80HP is not enough for a 1200kg car? Hmm, I'm pretty happy with mine having exactly those figures and I've also reached 180kmph straight with it. Not bad then! Forever Ford!
Had 1.8 petrol - one of the worst of my cars. Interior is like going 20 years back, noise isolation non existsnt, engine transmission combo kept ridiculously high rpms, engine consumed liters of oil.
Make no mistake,the 1.6 petrol is pick of the bunch bombproof!No nonsense four cylinder.Had over 200k on my 59 plate when I sold it last year!
1000% true
100% I recently found a gem of a 59 plate with only 24600 miles 1.6 zetec s it drives like a dream.
Glad to see a comment like this, just bought a 1.6 with 53k miles, need a daily for work in London and I found it last minute.
True. I bought my one 3 years ago. 1.6 100 bhp , always ideal
I have a 1.6l petrol. It's a very reliable engine, but very slow and quite thirsty.
Never heard such detailed critical fault advice before such as this channel. The driver’s good advisor. Excellent
It is good info. If you type the name of the car and copy paste авто стронг, you will find youtube channel that is even more detailed in their reviews. They even disassemble the engine. You will have to turn the subtitles on, it is not in english, but it is worth it.
The most reliable car I’ve had , 1.6 engine, yes it’s not worldspeed record potential but, man is it bombproof 👊
Worked for Fords back in 2007 and when I left I factory ordered a Foc 1.6 Titanium Saloon. Still got it now and use as a second car. It’s on 58k miles now, ultra reliable and still has the same battery on it hitting 16 years. I do a service every year even though it does about 300 miles a year. The only issue it ever had was the rear breather flaps seized and it let water in the boot but changed them and all ok. We call her old faithful and she has aided jump starts to newer BMW’s on the street😂. Not planning on ever letting her go.
How is the fuel economy with that 1.6 petrol ? I know the 1.4 is pretty thirsty.
My boot leaks slightly. How did you sort yours? Thanks
mk2.5 cc variant here with a 2.0 petrol bought at 72k miles and now at 102k, instrument cluster cracked soldering issues started at 88k miles after 13 years (all lights would come up and sometimes prevent the car from starting) and one of the ignition coils went out at 95k miles (fuel in one of the cylinders wouldn't get spark), button for the boot worked intermittently until it died close to 100k. That being said, these were not difficult to fix myself and parts are cheap so I'm a happy owner.
I've owned my 2007 1.8 tdci zetec climate sportspack from new, Ive had none of the issues mentioned which just goes to prove the point of maintenance, no matter how well you buy 2nd hand it'll never quite be the same as knowing everything that's ever been done to it and any issues it's ever had.( History and receipts will never truly prove this) If any of the faults were actually by design I'd of had them but as I said I haven't and it's purely down to how well it been maintained Past owners who were careful and vigilant will always be a lottery purely based on luck when buying 2nd hand but at the end of the day it's what everything will depend on no matter how well you inspect your potential purchase. Great vid.
I’ve got a 2010 auto 1.6 had it for 7 years never had a days problem with it . Superb car reliability!
I want to buy a car aftrr my fiat stilo jtd 2003 that served me for 10 years since i bought it on used cars place... Now its time for another car, i have choice (money budget) between ford focus 2 1.6 tdci 66kw 2009 year and fabia 2 1.4 tdi 2007 same range price, both estate, caravans how we call it. I heard fabias are more realiable, but its boring inside for me, ford is better but im afraid i will have much more problems with it😥.... Cause they are used cars, and who knows how previous owners took care.. +i heard ford is more sensitive... Im stuck in thinking🥴🥴
I own 2009 2.0tdci with powershift automatic gearbox.
The car had 130k km when i started driving it now it has 330k km. Serviced gearbox (oil and filter change every 80k km) no problems with gearbox. This box is wef clutch and is more reliable then the newer ones with dry clutch.
Also regular engine oil change 8 to 10 k km (dpf specific oil needs to be used). And have no problem with engine, turbo or dpf. Only recomend to clean intake manifold every 60- 80 k km.
Propper maintanance prevents big problems.
Reliable good car.
I have Focus 2,5 ,saloon 1.6,100 hp, petrol, 120,000 miles and still runs the engine perfectly, very reliable
Very helpful video well done. I own a mk2.5 focus from 2009 for 2 years now and its been the most reliable car I have ever owned. I tend to do quite high miles each year and to be honest I haven't done much to the car apart from suspension work and a new MAP sensor but thats about it. The 1.6tdci is very economic and provides just enough power to overtake, always starts on the button even in very cold conditions its never let me down. Defiantly highly recommended
I own a 2008 pre face-lift 1.8tdci I've done the front pads once and rear pads once and 2 sets of tyres and a set of wiper blades. It's on a 57 plate and I bought it July 2008 so it was around 6 months old and £9,250 9k on the clock. Still have it now. No rust engine runs great. At one point the engine would not rev I changed the fuel filter and its been fine since.
The 1.6 tdci apart from the 1.0 eco boost is the worst engine that Ford had 15 or so years ago many were repaired under warranty because Peugeot sent rubbish build quality engines over to Ford turbos were the worst culprit dpf clogs up wrecking the turbos costing nearly a grand to replace the 1.8 engines are much better and double the mileage
@@stuartpace6111 I do a lot of miles in my 1.6tdci and it’s been very good never gave any issues at all touch wood . As for the DPF issue that’s common amongst people who do short journeys and don’t build up the revs enough between gears , I’ve never had a dpf issue at all and I’ve had loads of diesels
My 2010 Focus Estate has the drivers footwear filling up with water.
After a lot of investigation, it turned out to be the rubber seal where the steering column goes through the floor.
Quite an expensive job to have done, but since then the drivers footwell has been dry
This was a right hand car.
I own the 2009 MK2.5 Petrol Auto 2.0L
Issues I have it with are a cracked front grill, rattling air bag/dash area and alloys get kerb rashes easily. I woul suggest anyone buying it to put palstic alloys on top of your alloys to protect them. Plastic alloys are £20 for 4 while powdercoating an alloy costs £90 per alloy! The 2.0L is powerful and quite nippy and you can speed up and change lanes and zigzag between traffic with it's 145BHP engine. However, it comes at the expense of drinking too much petrol!
The same journey between a 1.6L and a 2.0L Focus shows that the 2.0L drinks a quarter tank more petrol. But, it is a lovely speedyc ar and a joy on motorways.
I’m on my second mk2.5 1.8 petrol. First one had to go to heaven at 154k miles, had 34k on it when i bought it. Absolutely reliable, cheap to run, great drive. Most expensive garage job was replacing the catalytic converter. Do my own oil changes at 6 months in between garage services, change spark plugs and air filter if needed. For some reason i can’t explain, the second one has never blown a bulb in over 18months I’ve had it the other one seemed to go through them regularly. If you can get one with FSH i don’t think there’s a better value for money second hand car
what happened to the first one, did it ingest the death flaps mjnk
@@Harryd06 no, no problems with swirl flaps of death. Usual problem with Fords - rust!
My mate has a focus 1.8 tdci mk1 and has done 285000 miles, still going strong... a testiment to Ford!
Had a 2011 1.6 sport for eleven years and have to say it was the most reliable car I've ever owned. Only issues I had were windscreen technician snapping the key off in the bonnet lock and a minor water leak into the boot from the tailgate hinges, unfortunately when out of warranty. But all in all a great little car.
Another common problem with these Focuses (and in fact most Fords from the mid-late 2000s) is that after about 12-15 years, the soldering on the instrument cluster circuit boards starts to go bad and crack. This leads to problems starting the car, the car going into limp mode, instrument panels and warning lights lighting up like a Christmas tree and all the needles going wild. You'll likely get some kind of CAN Bus error if you scan it with an OBD code reader.
It's not a particularly hard fix, but you do need to pull the instrument cluster out, open it up and pull the circuit board out. You'll then need to re-solder the cracked pins before putting everything back together.
I've had to do this fix on 3 Focuses with 06-09 plates in the last year. These cars are getting to the age now where this is becoming a more common problem.
I just had to do this to mine. Car would throw either a Engine Malfunction warning and not start, or the same warning would pop up, the dash would go crazy, then go into reduced acceleration mode although still drive. The ESP light would stay on. Cycle the ignition and the car was fine for a bit. One trick to tell if its the the solder is when the malfunction happens, slap the top of the dash above the cluster and this would bring the clocks back to normal. I did this and then the car would start.
@@tekglitch4484 i just did this. garage wanted £1.3K to replace. i bought a USB microscope instead, and the light hasn't come back yet...
Had this problem - error code P1900 if I remember correct.Two workshops could not find the issue and found it from the forums.
There are a couple of companies which remanufacture Focus instrument clusters at reasonable cost, with a quick turnaround: ECU Testing and Actronics. Actronics will not deal with individuals, but have an extensive network of recommended garages who understand these issues: my neighbour (high-mileage Focus 1.8 Zetec) got good service from one, after his regular servicing garage failed to diagnose the problem with his instrument cluster.
Had this problem. I got a computer soldering bloke to fix it for £40. East to take apart.
Fabulous video, I've had my 2010 focus 1.6 mk2.5 petrol automatic since 2011 it's now on 112k regular oil changes and good maintenance will pay. I had the timing belt done 12 months ago its also important to change the serpentine belt as well as the AC belt. I had both replaced last week . I was only charged £30 for fitting both. These rubber belts also dry out and can break resulting in no Warter pump & powder steering..
I've had the Ti-VCT 1.6 Petrol with an LPG conversion for four years and have driven 70k with it. The only expense I've had has been minor maintenance. It's been incredibly reliable.
Had an LPG conversion on mine. Head gasket blew at 210k miles and honestly have gone through about 8 coil packs in 2 years but other than that. Great car. Hopefully get another 200k on the clock. Great video.
Me too, had 100.000km with the lpg system. Changed 3 fuel pumps, had my exhaust valves adjust before closing completely. It's sure isn't an lpg friendly car. Maintenance adds up...
We have a mk2.5 Focus Titanium that we inherited from my Wife's Father (he bought it new). And although it's starting to look a little tired now (121k) it's been a great car and has really been all we've ever needed. A pair of wings and a rear arch/sill repair will have it looking ship shape again.
A few points missed though:The rear springs have a tendancy to snap and you need to replace the drop links at the same time (it's a pain if you don't). The rear upper shocker mounts are also a weak spot and snap at the mount (making a simply awful clunk once they've gone). The boot lid trim (where the badge is) on the mk2.5 also snaps at the mount and they are near impossible to find second hand (ours was duck tapped on for quite a while until I came up with a solution). The rear axel bushes can fail after a while too and although not expensive, you need a special tool to fit them and the job is awful. Front lower suspension arms are also a weak point (ball joints) but are cheap enough and pretty easy to replace (just don't waste your time trying to replace just the Ball Joint as it's an awful job). Our front exhaust mount snapped last year but a spot of weld had it good to go again.
Had 06 plate for 10 years, sold it in 2019 with over 240k on clock, no major issues in that time.
Rotting bodywork forced me to sell but best car I've had in over 30 years of driving
I bought my 2009 diesel 1.6 focus in April 2021 and I covered 55 thousand by the time I owned it for a year and all the issues I had was battery and your usual service bits but that's 5 and a half years of driving in one year and not a major issue. I got the EGR and DPF delate I would recommend that its one less bill in the future. my car has 157k on it and I'm still getting 56-58MPG its a great car in the process for saving for an ST love these cars.
This was such a great car all together. I stil own a petrol 1.6
hows the mpg like
@@yowhaatsup an average of ~9liter/100km
For me only 7.1 L/100km or about 40mpg
After almost 10 years of daily driving my Focus MK2 I can confirm that water leaking into the trunk, water from the AC collecting in the footwell and the instrument cluster going whack and needing to be resoldered are indeed the most common problems of these cars. But it's all fixable and aside from that it's a great and reliable car. Looking forward to driving it until either it or I potentially die.
Thanks for the incisive review really rewarding and enjoyable.
Have a 2010 2.0 Duratec engine with a five speed manual. Love every minute of it.
I bought recently a 2011 tdci 90 .. very satisfied but yes this crazy design of simple maintenance tasks....it runs like a dream.. hope for long
And be cautious for sunroof models. The draining tubes are wackily narrow and are tend to be clogged often, in turn you likely end up with rainwater on your seats and footwells of either side.
The powershift is available only on the very late diesel model. Moreover, the very early diesel models didn’t DPF
And the powershift is a bit jerky. The powershift in the larger cars like the mondeo actually have oil that should be changed at 30,000miles and are much smoother. The powershift in the smaller models doesn't have oil.
Thanks for that info. Just got a 08 petrol automatic & got a bit worried that I may have a power shift box.
I still own a 2010 MK2.5 with 4 speed automatic gearbox and it has been just perfect. It only has 87K miles, and I don’t plan on changing it. I’ve just ordered a multimedia screen to give it a more modern interior.
More than just very early diesels didn't have dpf ..... ALL mk2s do not have a dpf, only mk2.5 have dpfs 😊
My first focus was a 2009 mk 2.5 loved that car
Thank you for your expertise in this matter as I am currently looking at a focus myself thanks for ur information my friend
Worth a video on the instrument cluster. You know the one, dry solder causing mayhem with everything! Easy fix by sending off to Essex Recon.
If you are looking at a high spec model with headlights that turn when you turn the steering , they play up and cost £1300 quid each , then you need to get them fitted and coded to the car . I had an 1800cc petrol many years ago , it was quite good .
I love the perfect summary of known puroblems and I love the perfect aesthetic conditions of the particular vehicle. 🙂
I’ve got a 20l petrol had it for 12 years been brilliant longest trip Bournemouth where I live to Inverness no problems it’s on a 57 plate
The 1.8 tdci has a wet belt and cambelt that both need changing from cars 2008 onwards it is not cheap to replace both
The auto gearboxes are fine. My dad owns a 1.6 Ghia Auto and its never gone wrong in his 6 years of ownership.
Had a Mk2.5 2008 1.6 Zetec 100bhp. Loved it, was great for the first year and was never right after that.
Exhaust manifold developed a hole, instrument cluster soldering needed re-done and pipework for power steering had to be completely changed. May have just been my luck as my dad had a Mk1.5 that was faultless.
Ended up selling after the instrument cluster had a complete breakdown. Put me off buying another Ford again sadly
Mk 2 1.8 petrol - ECU failed ( needed complete reflow and reprogram ) Dash failed ( needed complete resolder ) oil cap disintegrated ( had to replace ) gearbox, casing and clutch imploded & then exploded out driving at 30mph ( fatal differential pin flaw that means its time rather than care before it falls out and destroys everything - owned since brand new and was dead by 55,000 miles. The only good thing about this car was the engine ( that's because FORD did not make it, its made by MAZDA ! ) Also owned a 1.9tdi VW Passat from the same era - now at 190,000 miles and nothing has ever gone wrong with it mechanically, just rust issues - still on original clutch too
I just had the instrument cluster done on my 2010 Zetec. Five minutes to remove it, send to Essex Recon, back in 48 hours and 5 minutes to refit.
It costs about £120 to do it yourself, all you need is a Torx T 20.
Drop and pull back steering wheel adjustment, lock in place.
Remove dust cover.
Remove 2 torx screws.
Pull out cluster.
Unplug cluster.
Send to Essex Recon.
Put it back in.
Bobs yer uncle!
@jockpike considering all the other jobs I had to get done to the car, the instrument cluster just felt like insult to injury. All things that shouldn't have gone wrong but did.
My sister's 2008 fiesta has been the exact same, Ford has honestly become "fix or repair daily" in my house. Wouldn't even consider another one :(
Hello from Malaysia. My 2010 2.0 Ford Focus drive like a dream. Planted. However, had not been the most reliable. Had the tranny rebuilt, brake, ABS and radiator fan replaced. Now working on replacing the shocks. Car has only 78k km on it. Can’t sell as it is now worth like than a scooter.
Petrol or diesel?
I had a mk2 focus for 8 years loved the car and do miss it , i now got a mk4 focus 2018 which i had for the last 2 years , in all honesty i perfer the mk2 , they have a enough mod cons on them reliable and easy and cheap to repiar , the main reason why i think the mk2 is better car is that 1.6 zectec engine , ford should never off got rid of the zetec for those 1 litre eco boost engines. Yer the eco boost does 70 MPG however the zetec does around 55 MPG and is far more reliable engine. The bonnet release broke on my mk2 however it was a easy and cheap part to replace.
Zetec over an "EcoBoom" anyday! 👍🏻
I own a 2006 mk2 1.6L 100 hp estate since new and the only two problems it has now 17 years later (developed over this last year) is the reverse gear switch failed and it's starting to leak at the rear left pillar, pretty common problem apparently, both are in your list. Will need to fix that soon...
Other than this it was very reliable and completely uneventful apart from normal replaceable parts that needed to be changed (timing chain once, battery twice, spark plugs, once break disks and pads once, rear shocks once, then tires and bulbs).
another thing about the injectors:
when you start the diesel motor, GO OUTSIDE. if they start to go bad, they will make a "ticking" noise
I have a mk2 focus cc Diesel. 167k miles 2007 and still going strong. Engine gets serviced regularly but being in Cornwall the suspension takes a beating so have to fix a few things every few years.
We had two of these,a 1.8 and a 2.0 both petrol. The 2.0 was both better on fuel and more economical. Unfortunately the 2.0 developed an oil consumption issue at 85000 miles due to sticking piston rings (known issue) 1 litre would be burned every 400 miles or so. Mine also had a lot of rust develop on the front wings and on the inner parts of the rear arches.
Some good information to know. I've got a 1600 Automatic 2011 and have only had the bonnet issue and small leak in boot. Really love the drive and comfort which is why I've kept so long. Probably keep until it o me dies 😀
Is yours a petrol or diesel? I stupid chose a corsa over one of these and had nothing but trouble with it. I'm looking at getting of these for a few years before I get a new one
Good review. Engine mounts and as you mentioned rust biggest issue with the petrols
And petrols rust more than diesels?
@@gimble447 no of course not. But the diesels will have problems long before rust becomes an issue. Sorry if that wasn't clear.
@@The_Macaroon it certainly wasn't clear and it certainly isn't true, I've owned my 2007 tdci from new, what's your experience?
don't forget the sneaky trick ford did on the 1.8tdci 2009/ 10, they fitted a rubber timing belt inside the engine to drive the fuel pump, nobody knew about it, until it snapped at 100k and totally destroyed your motor. it is really an engine out job to do it, cost me over 1k, as i needed a new clutch at same time
I've had 09 1.6 petrol from 4 years old, its done me no harm, reliable, will keep until it dies...gets everything done to it as and when, doesn't do any great distances...
Great video, thanks! My son's Focus has an intermittent rattle from around the exhaust, - could you let me know how to find the eBay part (bracket?) that you mention?
I have a 2.0tdci duratec mk2 from 2007
300k km still going strong
Just maintenance it, thats all it needs
1.6 2008 Focus 115k and the only problem was an intermittent dead electrics and occasional limp home problem, which was all fixed with a new starter motor. The only problem on the horizon is rear suspension and coil springs on the way out. My mechanic said that lot would cost around 1k to fix...and I have no intent on buying a newer car.
Get a new mechanic....400 all in at the dealer
@@adams7405yup, he must be fitting those posh solid gold bottom arms and drop links 😂
I had a 1.6 Focus mk2.5 from 2011 to 2019. I did regular (10 month) oil changes on it and it had a set of plugs every 3 years. Brake discs and pads at 55,000. Timing belt at 65k. The onky problem I had was the power steering line cracked and lost fluid but this was suspiciously close to the belt change. Otherwise, totally reliable. The mpg wasnt great (42-46 avg) but it was a heavy car and a 1.6. Only got rid of it as someone hit it and it was written off.
Great video, but there's one thing you've missed. The dashboard on the 1.6 petrol has a common issue where the connections come adrift, which lead to the car going into limp mode (or even stopping). I had one and after months of either just bashing the dashboard or jump starting it as it was going down the road (after it cut out) to restart it, I ended up selling the car for a song. They guy that bought it sorted it out by removing the dash and re-soldering the various connections.
Saying that, I would have another.
I just did this also, hoping thats the end of it!
Wish I’d read this before buying one last week - I’m having the exact same problem right now. Everything else seems fine with it so I reckon that’s the issue!
You forgot the front wing bottoms go too ,as like the sills, anything under those platic trims is at risk, not just the front section of the front arch like you mentioned, rear of rear arch isnt really worth even mentioning as again its the front of the rear arch by the sills that the problems will start long before the rear of it is ever of any real concern, worth noting also that dpfs only fitted to mk2.5 models so no probs on any diesel mk2 😊
Great informative video! We're lucky as we just spend 2000 bucks for an earlier MK2 1.6i which is not the VCT kind :P
A good buy,look after it and keep it.Mines on 200,000 miles regularly serviced,few problems
The Reverse light no working is an MOT failure surely, so it's only a point for negotiation in a private sale. Commercial Dealers would have to fix that before offering it for sale.
I think the reversing light not working was only a failure on cars manufactured from 2009 onwards, as I had a 2002 Focus that passed MOT and the light didn't work.
You didn't mention the rear subframe, I have a 2011 1.6 petrol that needed a new one to pass MOT. All sorted now and went straight through after that, but it's not cheap and something to look out for. Apart from that that, it's a fantastic car, and should last for many more years now.
Tbh that's very unusual, yeah the bottom arms can get a bit scabby but usually they are replaced because the bushes go before they are actually structurally compromised by rust
I currently have a Mark 2.5 Focus, almost exactly like the one in this video. I love it, perfect for me and touch wood, not many problems!
Great video well detailed on what to look out for and very helpful tips
I have the 2.0 petrol. It has a few problems like EGR, DMF and swirl claps but other than that it's a great car.
Got two 2L Diesel, a 1.6 Diesel and a 1.6l Petrol (101hp). None of them ever broke!
Both of the 2L Diesel got 300.000+ km.
Great Video, very comprehensive. I have a 2011 1.8 with only 65k on it. I noticed the bonnet was becoming difficult to open so took it to a garage before it became un-openable, if it does, they need to remove the grill. Can you do a video about sorting the leak in the boot please.
My 2008 focus has a bonnet release in the passenger footwell
I'm returning to the uk in January, thinking about a mk3 focus diesel , I would like a jaguar xf sport break bit my insurance I would imagine would be a little steep so a mk 3 focus diesel will have to do for a while, would love a review 😀 on one of those
Look at buy one today 1.6 petrol zetec 60 plate . Hopefully its a Good choices
Good video. My son and his fiance intend to buy a 2.0l petrol Focus Titanium Wagon 2006 (manual transmission) as their first car (22.12.2005 launch date). Driven 254k km. We went to see the car. Seemed to be in good shape for its age, both inside and out. We drove a small test run (freezing -10 degrees). What do you think? Service history was. Parts renewed. The price was not bad at all.
Did they buy it?
@@lewistillett206 Yes. The car is good to drive. I have now driven it myself for just under a week because my own car is being serviced to change the coolant hose (the hose is not available in all of Finland) Ordered from Germany. 😆
I just bought a 2011 Titanium, would love to see more about leaks in the boot area and how to fix them. Main pain in the ass is that the cigarette lighter is live at all times on these too. Like given.
Is there a similar video for the Mk 3.5? Great video on the mk 2.5
Please i need help with my MK2 1.6 2011 model. The information cluster screen light remains on even when the vehicle is switched off and locked. How do i turn the information screen off when not in use.
It’ll go off after a period of time. Don’t worry about it 👍🏼
It's just the system taking a few minutes to close down not a problem 😊
Heh, this confused me a fair bit too when I first got the car. It will go off after like 5 minutes or so. Not sure what the point of it staying on is. Another thing that kinda confused me was the capless fuel tank, never seen that before and wasn't sure if it was supposed to be like that ;)
Hi hello I have a ford focus zetec 209 petrol and like you said the front hanging parts on exhaust has broke what part number do I order on eBay thank you god bless hope you can help me ???
It was quite a while ago I done this but I’m sure it was item number 303591603351 or something very similar to this. Good luck!
@ ok 👍 thank you very much ok do you know what the bracket is called ??? All so does your garage do this job if so how much do you charge thank you 🤩
I’m confused by the actuator thing on the 1.6 Ti-VCT. Will this definitely fail, what happens and what does the repair entail? I understood these were very robust engines.
I had a Mk2 1.6VVT for 15 years. The issues I had were the leaking windscreen washers (easy fix), water leaking in the boot (never really solved that), water pump leak (£200 replace). Washer tubes blocked. The engine, gearbox was fine at 60,000 miles. Good car but it was time for something newer.
2010 2.0tdci here. 150,000 mls still going well. Had to change turbo 3 years ago thankfully no re-occurance but I will check injectors now you've recommended.
Also ive had no Spf problems despite doing mostly short trips. Read various opinions on forums saying it was an optional extra on this engine. Which wiukd explain why ive never had issues or would it be what you said the ceramic dpf? First ive heard of it.
Still love my mk2. And gonna keep it running until she dies of old age.
Take Care my have a 4 auto petrol 1.6 from how many bumps the car took the gear selector and gearbox got disconnected
Not all the autos are PowerShift. some are the more traditional and much more reliable torque converters. You also forgot to mention the 2.5 litre Volvo engines that were available in the ST (known as the XR5 in Australia and New Zealand) and the RS
last year i bought 05/06 Sedan, with the 1.6 Ti-VCT engine at 214k km (now at almost 219k).. im a city driver and dont drive insanely often.. the previous owner was horrible with taking care of the car.. within my time of owning i chugged almost about the same amount i paid for it (1500 euros) into the car.. dead cat. converter, several o2 sensors (before i eventually found out it was the CAT all the time), rusty spark plugs and coil pack dying (didnt fix the rain water leak) and more ... i've almost made the car reborn i feel like :D (drives much better than it used to) .. but im still having 1, in the future major, issue, and that is an oil pressure leak .. at the moment the mechanic measured it only on idle when fully warmed up (before the pressure was lower also in higher revs) .. dunno the exact numbers of the top of my head but for the purpose of understanding .. on idle i should have 1 bar of pressure but in reality i have about 0.85 - 0.9 bar .. in revs the pressure is normal.. what could it be ? the whole timing assembly is new (vct stuff included), oil pump, oil pressure sensor, plugs+cables+coil pack.. for now it drives fine, but sooner or later it'll get suddenly worse and the expenses will be insane - basically a complete engine rebuild (refurbish)
I own Ford Focus 2007 model, 2L Tdci with a turbo and 7 gears it consumes a lot of fuel. What should I do to prevent that?
Interesting video, subscribed
Could you do a video on the boot leak points ?
Plus one for a boot leak video. Ours has a leak. Sealed up what I can but still leaking!😢
@@eddgreen9376 rear light cluster seals - buy new gaskets
What's the difference between a Mk2, 2.5 and Mk3 please, I have a 08 plate, looks like your one and I thought it was mk3.
Mk2.5 is how the post-facelift Mk2 (2008-2010) is often referred to. It's almost the same, just some small changes, most notably the front of the car (headlights, grille, bumper) is a bit different and more in line with the newer Ford design style. The car in the video is the post-facelift Mk2, so what you would consider a Mk2.5. The Mk3 is a completely new generation with a different design that was made between 2010 and 2019.
very helpful. ive had only a few small issues. sometimes the boot latch will keep firing for no reason, once it even drained the battery it was going so long. then it stopped. not sure how to fix it. then i noticed some water under the spare tire, must be a little leak around the boot area. The biggest issue for me has been the seat belt chime going off constantly. any ideas for fixing that would be great. i've the mk2.5 and based on forums i've found, it can't be disabled
Good recommended use Ford focus 1.6 or 2.5 petroil engines or Diesel 1.9 2.0 2.5 sport 3.0
But manual transmision gearbox. Manual gearbox save engines .
Long manual gearbox work 100.000 km renove oil and use special sport oil 80w90 👍😎 again 100.000km travel drive
But use Autematic transmision gearbox recommended 5000km renove oil and oil gearbox filtr. But not Hard work Autematic gearbox. Economy variant. Hard work manual gearbox transmision forever
Hi hello can you help me what is the bracket called on on eBay? How much is it thank you can I fit it my self ???
Love the accent. Thanks for the video
How much are you selling the ford focus for and we’re are you based then ???? Thank you
How do you know of the engine has dual actuators or not ? Where can you see them in the engine please ?
Great review, Would add the 5 speed petrol car tend to be a bit low geared. Also, some problems with dashboards which can lead to immobilizer faults.
5 speed estates have shorter ratio gearboxes but also will drink more petrol because of that.
the clocks go bad too really common
1.6 from 2009 bought with 180k, now at 240 and still going strong (after changing 2 injectors, intercooler pipe, alternator, dual mass clutch, engine mounts, and various sensors)
Wouldn't recommend
Can you please tell me where the ECU fuse is housed on a 09 1.6 diesel.
Hi I know this isn't a mech chat room but ur vid shoes u know ur stuff. I have a 2011 1.6 diesel focus When driving for about 20 mins or staying at 50 for a bit, when changing down or needing to speed up I find I have no boost it just loses its umph. I find this is resolved by turning key quickly off an on when driving or stopping and restarting. And the boost is back. I have had the egr replace, but I still get this prob. Any advice would be helpful.
Am i right in thinking a 58 plate 2lt tdci doesn’t have a dpf so no dpf problems.
I have got a ford focus 2009 model, same as the car in the video. It uses diesel.
Currently the car has a transmission malfunction issue. Car still drives. The car jolts and occasionally, there is reluctance to accelerate at low speeds (0 to 30 km/hr) then the transmission malfunction appears on the dashboard.
Any advice on how to resolve the issue.
Thanks
Any advice on a 2009 2.0L automatic? Any good?
Yes it's probably good as long as its not abused, I've owned a 2010 focus automatic since it was virtually new. You should have a separate transmission fluid dipstick ,check the level with the engine running at normal running temperature. If you treat it with respect it should be fine.
Very helpful video good information
Glad it’s helpful!
Awesome presentation, thank You...
Is the 1.6sport tdci worth remapping ? Seems sluggish going up hills thanks to
How do you know on a 1.6 tivct that the actuator is worn
Are 2.0 petrol chain driven? Also what rpm do the idle at
1.4L at 80HP is not enough for a 1200kg car? Hmm, I'm pretty happy with mine having exactly those figures and I've also reached 180kmph straight with it. Not bad then! Forever Ford!
Had 1.8 petrol - one of the worst of my cars. Interior is like going 20 years back, noise isolation non existsnt, engine transmission combo kept ridiculously high rpms, engine consumed liters of oil.