I use Borax instead of crystals, then dry the chain and store it in a Ziploc bag with a little bit of chainsaw oil in it. I've done this for a couple of years or so and haven't had any trouble.
Same method he is using here but you can use baking soda, small amount of dish soap and hot water. Powder the chains with baking soda (you don't need a lot) squirt of dish soap toss it it HOT water. I would have not believed it if I didn't see it myself. Worth a try yourself for pennies.
@@JamesTheForester again I was surprised in just a few minutes how well the caked on baked on grime softened and came off. The only reason I made mention of it was I didn't have available the cleaners that I have seen mentioned. Baking soda and water works well also for cleaning marks off painted walls. I appreciate you posting this tip, sometimes it's the little things that help out with big frustrations. Thank you!
Awesome. I buried my bar in the ground just the other day bucking some firewood logs. Wanting to avoid petroleum products, I opted to use a vinegar cleaning fluid. It worked pretty good, but nothing like what you’ve shown here. I also cleaned and scraped out the bar groove. I followed up with lots of compressed air and WD40. Reassembled and mopped the chain down with bar oil using a paint sponge. My concern was rusting due to the vinegar cleaner. I sure it contains water. Thanks so much for sharing!!
Thanks for the great video. You mentioned you put the chain onto a sharpener after cleaning it. Do you have a video that shows how to sharpen a chainsaw chain?. Thank you
Thanks for the comment! I only spray them with light machine oil after I have let them dry put them on the sharpener. The sharpener prefers them un lubed. But If I don't use soap to wash them in the process I find I don't always need to. They don't corrode.
Didn’t have any of that to hand but it gave me an idea, I use Milton to clean tea stains from cups and spoons so tried that in some warm water, 10 minutes and the chain was like new. Would not have thought of it if not for watching this.
Interesting- I’ve used brake cleaner, kerosene (Diesel) , and Purple Power an industrial degreaser. None of these are exactly green and give off noxious fumes. I am going to give washing soda (sodium carbonate - not to be confused with baking soda or Sodium Bicarbonate) a try. I would not dump the dregs down the drain though since it contains bar oil residue - especially since I have an on site septic system and a private well.
All good points. Remember that Bar oil is biodegradable because it gets flung around the environment. Some people use vegetable oil but it doesn't have the anti fling component.
You are right, and I have used messy degreasers and petrol etc over the years. I have recently swapped to an inexpensive brand washing soda. The label says it's a water softener, household cleaner and it's a 'sodium carbonate' powder. Instructions suggest one tablespoon per two litres of warm/hot water. Label also recommends wearing 'rubber' gloves to protect skin. I use a plastic ice-cream container and roughly 500 mils of warm water - within seconds it starts to remove all the grease and dirt. After a cleaning I rinse in cold fresh water and let chains dry. When dry, it's a good time to sharpen and stow away ready for next time.
Hi Steve. In this one I strip it down and rebuild with a new sprocket. ua-cam.com/users/videolvFZ_ivMnIY/ If you search for another video as well - Stihl Chainsaw easy upgrade. IIRC I swap up to a bigger sprocket. Thanks.
Hi. The exact contents vary slightly depending on the manufacturer - but it tends to include a compound of sodium carbonate. The key thing is that it is alkaline which counteracts the acidity of the sap.
will it clean Elm sap off the teeth of the chain? I got some washing soda so now I don need to buy some diesel its exspensive. Great idea it got those chains clean. Will it rust them?
(1) thank you (2) how do you dry the chain? Compressed air? (3) assume you sharpen dry unlubricated chain (4) how do you relubricate the chain? Thank you, once again
Great idea. I am not a professional though I use chainsaws regularly, can I use the same solution to clean parts of the chainsaw casing that I've taken off the chainsaw?
@@JamesTheForester thanks boss. I actually was able to use dawn. And the power spray dawn (US powerful dawn though liquid?!? I don't understand either, should just make dawn that way lol) first just sitting then soak in normal dawn platinum. Can't speak to rust but loosened everything else and I was able to soak in oil in a small bag to save the oil and then sharpen.. After sharpen the chain runs like a mad man for a safety semi chisel and a skip chain lol
I cut hardwoods. Mostly cherry, maple, and oak. I have never heard of cleaning a chain before this video. Why do you do it? Just because there is some sap on them? Seems like a waste of time. Just sharpen them and put them back on the saw. What am I missing?
Hi mate. Many thanks for the comment. When we do a lot of softwood sitka and scots pine being the main culprits, the sap builds up and sets hard it stops the links flexing . It also covers the file or grinding stone if I use the machine, and stops them working as well. It ends up covering the sprocket and builds up on the internals, brake band etc .
Bar and chain oil is tacky and picks up grit, dirt, sand, etc. from the bark or if you touch the ground. It can be beneficial to break down the oil and get the contaminants out so your chain and bar last longer. I use mineral spirits in a small container and just enough to cover the chain and let it sit for a while as I clean the internals of the clutch area with a toothbrush and spirits. I also grease the sprocket bearings and oiler mechanism.
West coast USA here and all pine especially spruce and fir are really full of sap. After a while it'll make your chain stiff and cause friction during cut. Not like an everyday thing but if you got it off the saw might check and see if they need a cleaning.
Perhaps part of the problem with dirty chains is the chain-oil. It sticks to everything, and together with sawdust it forms a cake. If you use regular oil instead then you will not have a problem with dirty chains.
I use Borax instead of crystals, then dry the chain and store it in a Ziploc bag with a little bit of chainsaw oil in it. I've done this for a couple of years or so and haven't had any trouble.
Yes. Similar product. Very good idea with the ziploc bag!
Same method he is using here but you can use baking soda, small amount of dish soap and hot water. Powder the chains with baking soda (you don't need a lot) squirt of dish soap toss it it HOT water. I would have not believed it if I didn't see it myself. Worth a try yourself for pennies.
Yes, you are right. Baking soda is chemically the same although a little weaker. Should work well with dish soap added. 👍
@@JamesTheForester again I was surprised in just a few minutes how well the caked on baked on grime softened and came off. The only reason I made mention of it was I didn't have available the cleaners that I have seen mentioned. Baking soda and water works well also for cleaning marks off painted walls. I appreciate you posting this tip, sometimes it's the little things that help out with big frustrations. Thank you!
Awesome. I buried my bar in the ground just the other day bucking some firewood logs. Wanting to avoid petroleum products, I opted to use a vinegar cleaning fluid. It worked pretty good, but nothing like what you’ve shown here. I also cleaned and scraped out the bar groove. I followed up with lots of compressed air and WD40. Reassembled and mopped the chain down with bar oil using a paint sponge. My concern was rusting due to the vinegar cleaner. I sure it contains water. Thanks so much for sharing!!
Glad it helped. Thanks for the kind words!
I couldn't find soda crystals so I used Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda. It worked great! I wish more chain sawers would see this video.
Great tip!
Thanks for the great video. You mentioned you put the chain onto a sharpener after cleaning it. Do you have a video that shows how to sharpen a chainsaw chain?. Thank you
Hi. Thanks for the comment, I don't but I'll be doing one soon.
Purple Power from walmart use full strength soak a few hours little tooth-brushing works great.
Great tip!
Thanks for the video mate, been looking for something along these lines. Can I ask tho, do you have to give them a lube after they dry?
Thanks for the comment! I only spray them with light machine oil after I have let them dry put them on the sharpener. The sharpener prefers them un lubed. But If I don't use soap to wash them in the process I find I don't always need to. They don't corrode.
Didn’t have any of that to hand but it gave me an idea, I use Milton to clean tea stains from cups and spoons so tried that in some warm water, 10 minutes and the chain was like new. Would not have thought of it if not for watching this.
Great tip! Wouldn't have thought of that!
Interesting- I’ve used brake cleaner, kerosene (Diesel) , and Purple Power an industrial degreaser. None of these are exactly green and give off noxious fumes. I am going to give washing soda (sodium carbonate - not to be confused with baking soda or Sodium Bicarbonate) a try. I would not dump the dregs down the drain though since it contains bar oil residue - especially since I have an on site septic system and a private well.
All good points. Remember that Bar oil is biodegradable because it gets flung around the environment. Some people use vegetable oil but it doesn't have the anti fling component.
I used the washing soda- sodium carbonate- and with minimal scrubbing- my chains came out gleaming. Now to the grinder…
You are right, and I have used messy degreasers and petrol etc over the years.
I have recently swapped to an inexpensive brand washing soda. The label says it's a water softener, household cleaner and it's a 'sodium carbonate' powder.
Instructions suggest one tablespoon per two litres of warm/hot water.
Label also recommends wearing 'rubber' gloves to protect skin.
I use a plastic ice-cream container and roughly 500 mils of warm water - within seconds it starts to remove all the grease and dirt. After a cleaning I rinse in cold fresh water and let chains dry.
When dry, it's a good time to sharpen and stow away ready for next time.
Brilliant 👏 thanks for the comment 👍
I always used hot water and Dawn dish soap and it works quite well, I will try the soda crystals.
I'll often do that afterwards if they have been a particularly dirty batch. Or just do that if they have been particularly clean!
Little late, but started watching your videos. Will definitely try. After cleaning, I use sunflower seed oil. Works great, easy to handle and store
Great tip! Good for the environment too.
@@JamesTheForester do you have a video about switching clutches/sprockets if they don’t have the original setup? Thanks
Hi Steve. In this one I strip it down and rebuild with a new sprocket.
ua-cam.com/users/videolvFZ_ivMnIY/
If you search for another video as well - Stihl Chainsaw easy upgrade. IIRC I swap up to a bigger sprocket.
Thanks.
What is the active ingredient of these crystals?
Hi. The exact contents vary slightly depending on the manufacturer - but it tends to include a compound of sodium carbonate. The key thing is that it is alkaline which counteracts the acidity of the sap.
will it clean Elm sap off the teeth of the chain? I got some washing soda so now I don need to buy some diesel its exspensive. Great idea it got those chains clean. Will it rust them?
Yes but only mildly as it's salt based so make sure you rinse it off thoroughly and give it a squint of WD40.
@@JamesTheForester Ok thanks I will do that.
What do you do now to stop them going rusty. Is towel cleaning enough or do you spray some oil on it, if so what type of oil, WD40?
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Any light machine oil or WD-40 will do 🙂
(1) thank you
(2) how do you dry the chain? Compressed air?
(3) assume you sharpen dry unlubricated chain
(4) how do you relubricate the chain?
Thank you, once again
Hi.
1. You're welcome!
2. Air dry it.
3. Yes.
4. Light machine oil or WD40.
Thanks!
1. 😂
2. 😂
3. 😂
4. 😂
Love the way the viewer asked the questions and how you answer ut. ❤❤❤❤
Thanks. I do my best!
Great idea. I am not a professional though I use chainsaws regularly, can I use the same solution to clean parts of the chainsaw casing that I've taken off the chainsaw?
Hi. Thanks for the comment 👍 Yes you can. I clean most external cover parts this way but not any internal engine or carb parts.
@@JamesTheForester Wow, you replied, no-one ever does that. Thank you for the advice, and the super idea☺️
Would you use the SODA solution in an ultrasonic cleaner?
JoeB
Hi, thanks for the comment. If the cleaner instructions allowed it then I imagine that would work very well.
What is soda crystals? Baking soda? I'm in US and never seen that
They come from a similar chemical family but soda crystals are stronger alkaline. Baking soda may work but may take longer?
@@JamesTheForester thanks boss. I actually was able to use dawn. And the power spray dawn (US powerful dawn though liquid?!? I don't understand either, should just make dawn that way lol) first just sitting then soak in normal dawn platinum. Can't speak to rust but loosened everything else and I was able to soak in oil in a small bag to save the oil and then sharpen..
After sharpen the chain runs like a mad man for a safety semi chisel and a skip chain lol
Sodium carbonate is different that sodium bicarbonate. Sodium carbonate is also known as washing soda or soda crystals as shown
Nice thanks🎉
Welcome 😊
Is that the same as baking soda in USA?
Hi. Thanks for the comment. They are the same chemical family but soda crystals are much more alkaline. Baking soda might work but be much slower?
He is using Sodium Carbonate NOT sodium bicarbonate aka baking soda.
Washing soda
Brilliant!
DOUGout
Glad it was helpful!
👍🙏
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this method. I tried this today. Easiest chain clean I have ever done, chain looks like new.
Glad it was useful. Thanks for the kind words😊
I cut hardwoods. Mostly cherry, maple, and oak. I have never heard of cleaning a chain before this video. Why do you do it? Just because there is some sap on them? Seems like a waste of time. Just sharpen them and put them back on the saw. What am I missing?
Hi mate. Many thanks for the comment. When we do a lot of softwood sitka and scots pine being the main culprits, the sap builds up and sets hard it stops the links flexing . It also covers the file or grinding stone if I use the machine, and stops them working as well. It ends up covering the sprocket and builds up on the internals, brake band etc .
@@JamesTheForester Crazy. I never knew it would cause so much trouble. Thanks for educating me. 👍🏻
Bar and chain oil is tacky and picks up grit, dirt, sand, etc. from the bark or if you touch the ground. It can be beneficial to break down the oil and get the contaminants out so your chain and bar last longer. I use mineral spirits in a small container and just enough to cover the chain and let it sit for a while as I clean the internals of the clutch area with a toothbrush and spirits. I also grease the sprocket bearings and oiler mechanism.
West coast USA here and all pine especially spruce and fir are really full of sap. After a while it'll make your chain stiff and cause friction during cut. Not like an everyday thing but if you got it off the saw might check and see if they need a cleaning.
Perhaps part of the problem with dirty chains is the chain-oil. It sticks to everything, and together with sawdust it forms a cake.
If you use regular oil instead then you will not have a problem with dirty chains.