I found with mine I bought the Traxxas servo saver as you said to in another video and it still would just barely miss that middle gear. Looked back through the manual and found from tie rod end to tie rod end on the shifting linkage it says it should be 57mm so I started their. Shortened it a half turn and boom it shifts smooth into all the gears either way you go when you are shifting the gears. Had mine before that to where it would only shift perfect starting in 2 wheel high going up to 4x4 but on the way back through it would miss the middle gear lol. Hope this helps some one know it did me!💯🤪
I understand the frustrations with this badass machine and have spent many hours on mine just doing all the under the hood stuff still haven't made it to doing the body work so if I can help others with it in anyway you bet I'm gonna put the knowledge I know out their for everyone, my mom taught me to share lol!💯🤪
Hey Dennis! I know this is an old video but I’m having a hell of a time putting new bearings in the 407. Got a video of some more info on this? I’m ready to throw it out the door🤬🤨. Love your channel and your knowledge, thanks Dave!
Hey Dave I have been watching all the trouble everyone has been going through on these gearboxes and axles trying to install high quality bearings in these kits, I think the casting on the gearboxes has been tired out, I want to buy the Tamiya alloy castings to measure them together for indifferences in bearing clearances.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Good morning Dennis! I got the tranny done! Pulled apart 4 times and finally got it. Very smooth, still can’t figure out how to get my shift points set with my flysky controller. I also made shims from a pop can and put in hubs so bearings didn’t have as much slop. Worked great, took it for a spin and snapped the ball off the axle.😩🙄. Wasn’t running it hard so I’m wondering if it was something I did or just bad luck. Keep up the great videos, love your channel, take care of yourself and have a great day!!✌️😎✌️
i just had my second transmission fail , again the shift fork ground away as did the shift collars turning into metal powder resulting in the shift rod seizing up in the housing , i put tamiya ceramic grease in this transmission i see that did absolutely nothing to make it last longer in fact i only got to drive it 4 times before it failed , if you ever find the time please post a video on how to reassemble the transmissions i bought all the parts to do it there just arent any videos explaining how to do it anywhere on the internet .
I am still using my early transmissions with good luck, I have a later built version that seems to stick and bind. I want to disassemble the 2 and compare them to see why the later ones have problems. I want to do a video on assembling them also.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i noticed on both transmissions that failed they had the same root cause for failure , the slotted rail that the shift forks slide on binds up the balls gouge the track and seize up causing loud grinding and failure of gear teeth , also causes the rear shift collar to wear down filling the trans with metal filings , i think with a steel rail or even a better quality aluminum replacement alot of these issues could be fixed
Well, I was finally able to order one of these, so this video is going to help me out a bunch, so thank you, sir! I like how there's no springs on this one, and I think I'm going to love having motor and pinion choices. I have to admit though, I'll miss the sound of those 32-pitch gears whining... I was thinking I might drill some holes in the case in strategic places like the original Bruiser tranny's have, for superficial inspection, and lubrication. What do you think? I'll find some some small plugs, then drill the holes to fit them... It's exiting getting this transmission, because I've had that truck since 1995, and I only got to drive it for 3-4 years, before it started slipping. I couldn't figure out where it was slipping so the truck sat in pieces for about 8 years, before I finally took another crack at it. The slipping gear was that tallest, free-wheeling gear on the the large gear-cluster assembly. I swapped it out for the other one I had, and I was able to drive it again for about a year, before that one started slipping. You can't imagine how happy this makes me that i'll finally have a new transmission for my baby! Now I gotta find a differential bevel gear for my Kyosho 1/9 4runner (EP); I got a little too ambitious when I was pounding it back on the axle shaft with a shim, and cracked the original. That 4runner is my other baby I need to keep running.
That's really cool that your going to get the ole bruiser back on the terra firma! those hg gear boxes have a lot of possible pinion /motor choices, Hot racing makes a steel spur gear for the transmissions to replace the plastic one then you will have all metal gears in it. I was going to drill the holes in all of mine but usually you have to tear it all apart if anything goes wrong anyway. I was so happy when they cloned the bruiser just to have the ability to have extra parts, the Tamiya transmissions were 200.00 back in the day and seem to still fetch 150.00 -200.00 still today for used ones. there is a guy on ebay that makes the new brass replacement gears for the old bruiser and list's them every so often but they are still around 125.00 for them.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Yeah, I'm super-psyched! Actually, they couldn't have picked better time to break down, because from now until late March; it's going to be too cold to drive them outside here in southern Minnesota. Not too cold for me; but when things get brittle as you know, they break easier and I twisted one of the front axle-ends off the Bruiser when it was warm, (because I run 2-way bearings up front, so they power in reverse); so I don't like to chance it if it's freezing, because they bind with no differential. Thanks for the extra info on the metal spur. About drilling the holes; I think it would be nice, just for keeping it lubed, if nothing else, because I really have to make it last as long as I can, with my budget. Thanks again for all the info! Cheers!
Hi brother Sorry for the delay in responding UA-cam lost your message to me somehow, so I will answer through this video, the shafts on the transmission can be filed flat on one side to let the grub screw hold it in place, the hg-p407 has plastic spacers to lock the transmission in 1st or 2nd, I have an extra set if you want one, just email me denlin20@aol and give me your address and I will send them to you. the if the motor has 3 notches on the back case (some didn't have them)the tabs have to be pried back and move the back case one notch either way, counter clockwise makes it slower but more power/ clockwise gives more speed but less power.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Okay, thanks a lot and no problem on delay. Thank you very much for the offer; but I manged to get it locked in low by pulling the shifting shaft out as far as it can go, and using the collar to lock it in place. That should be alright, yes? Thanks for letting me know about the timing; once I get some warmer weather, I can see better how I like the gearing. You were right about these things being quiet and smooth-sounding. So glad I was finally able to get her trail-worthy again; and how! Got my 1/9 4Runner back together again, too, so I'm a very happy man. Cheers, Brother!
Finally got up the courage to take my hg-p407 transmission apart to put the upgraded bearings in it and that was the worst decision i have ever made lol , i cannot for the life of me get it back together , and to my surprise there are no videos showing how to put this thing together so DANG i was also surprised to see that it has absolutely no grease inside at all , lots of metal shavings though so thats probably fine lol i finally just ordered a new transmission , all i can do is hope it lasts longer than the original did , but at $120 this will be the last trans i buy the next time it fails the trucks going in the trash
check your shift servo to see if its extending enough first, if thats ok then open the front case up where the spur gear is and check the plastic planetary gears, if you still have trouble hit me back up.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol thx for the reply, Im sure the shift servo is moving enough it goes all the way to the c clip. Crazy part is it works in all the other gears and goes fast or In high gear in reverse. I’ll tear it apart tomorrow and peak around.
I would use any grease but in light coatings, don't pack it full this will cause shifting problems also try to stay clear of white grease because it dries out and gets hard over time.
I have the Tamiya Mountain rider rere. I bought it in 14 and have never had a problem with trans. Shifts smooth and the plastic gears are not normal plastic. They are like a hardend type similar to delrin not the normal nylon (like Clod buster). And is lubed with Tamiya HG grease very low friction compared to regular Tamiya white grease. I have ran mine many times in snow every year with diffs locked and I have also jumped it many times (scale jumps) usually get 7inch of air and haven't broken a gear yet! Also run it in my rock garden in back yard with diffs locked. In snow I run stock tires they work best and everywere else I run rc4wd micky Thompson mtz on the bruiser option original bead lock type rims. I have read more than one report online of the clone metal gears breaking. Always from the lower counter gear shaft just like yours. I can tell ya now the Tamiya by far and away is better quality than clone. However the stock drive shafts will wear out because Tamiya doesn't call for greasing the u joints in them. I have found if you take them apart and lube them with Tamiya antiwear grease and slightly crimp the yoke with pliers to reduce the slop in the u joint block the shafts last waayy longer. Also new rere bruiser/mountain rider has full bearings. And I also have never had problems with axles twisting in the u bolt plates. The rere has cast aluminum axles and trans not pot metal like OG bruiser very nice quality. Just wish Tamiya stuff was cheaper its a shame because so many folks are having fun with this clone and just don't relize what there missing by not getting the Tamiya, its such a fun build! very quality. I have also experimented with the diffs by using Tamiya antiwear grease in them so that they act very much like limited slip diffs in the snow, works very well with 8 little gears the thick sticky grease really slows the diff action. But nothing beats locking them on the rocks! Also tip on the black chassis if the black coating starts to wear off you can use gun blueing liquid on it and blacken it up. (find it at sporting goods store or gun shops).
You have some great tuning and maintenance tips there and I agree with you about Tamiya's second to none quality you sound like you have spent some countless hours building tweaking and tuning the truck that's one of the things that make owning a Tamiya 4x4 fun! I have collected these and had some awesome memories since 1985. No matter what life threw at me good or bad Tamiya has always been there to get me through so I am a true blue Tamiya fan also. I have been following their pricing hikes for some time now and they just raised the prices about 35 percent more in the USA after the HG-P407 clone exploded into the market and I couldn't figure out their strategy there? in my opinion they just handed the bruiser / mountaineer market to the chinese clones to cash in on. I recently seen a rere bruiser priced at 1350.00 no electronics or battery, you can buy 5 rtr HG-P407 trucks for that cost of one tamiya kit. Yeah the radio quality is bad and the clones are not up to tamiya quality but for modifying and bashing the 407 is the better deal for a hobbyist who cant afford the Tamiya version. The HG-P407 brought the hobby back that Tamiya got lost from through the years in my opinion.
The price hikes are from the resent buy out of Greatplanes/Hobbico/Tower Hobbies from Horizon hobby. Tower was selling certain Tamiya kits low enough that they were almost none profit! Now that Horizon owns Tower if you look, only certain Tamiya Kits did not get effected much (pumpkin/lunch box/Grasshopper. Clodbuster, Hilift series and the frog based kits and Bruiser got price jacked big time! Now Tower sells Vatera stuff (aka Horizon) rc trucks and others now. The high Tamiya prices have always been there but only on their official Tamiya USA site. Now the prices are all the same or closer than they used to be. Im glad I bought my Mountain rider when I did! just under $600 with Tower coupons. At least all the Tamiya spare parts are cheap from hobby stores/ebay.
I have 1 complete original Bruiser ,1 original frame and trans and running gear only , 1 re-re and 1 clone . The Tamiyas are lot better quality and the HG is good for the driving I do with it.
the Bruisers are like Lays potato chips you cant have just one lol! I agree the quality is way better on the Tamiya, the clone seems to have better drivability for some unknown reason lol,
do those detent balls on the shift rod have any small springs under them ? i have having a ton of trouble with my hg p407 trans , 2 wheel low just doesnt work right it just pops out of gear and the trans goes into neutral , trying to figure out the issue , tried to adjust the rod end that hooks to the trans and it seemed to work on the bench but as soon as i drove it i realized that it didnt help at all , 2 wheel low really isnt a huge deal it honestly just annoys me that i bought a 3 speed truck only to get a faulty 2 speed box , does the shift rod click into position when it reaches a gear ? because mine doesnt it slides around super easy and has about a half inch of slop in it at any given time , im thinking the detent balls are either damaged , undersized or missing
The detent balls only keep the shift fork rod from swiveling up and down and keep one position to slide back and forth, there are no springs just 2 small recesses in the shaft and a slot on the bracket that it sits in, It just slides back and forth no clicking into gear. It would have been nice if they did put 3 divots and a spring with a ball to mark each gear on the shaft but they just copied the Tamiya parts and left to much slop in the process. I know the rtr servo and servo saver is a major problem with them, I changed the servo saver to a solid servo horn and it fixed the shifting problem. I have had a new rtr kit transmission that the balls must have fell inside during assembly and had to tear it down to reinstall them and this sounds like the problem your having. use a little grease or vaseline to stick the balls to the shaft when putting the rod back in helps a lot, when you reassemble your tranny lay it sideways so the shift shaft is in the bottom to keep the detent balls in place and slide it together, once the back housing is in place with at least one screw they will stay in place.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Thanks for the tips , i will try that , i just discovered the assembly diagrams in the manual , so i will be tearing it down soon , i just wanted to make sure that i had some idea what i was getting myself into before i do , i think i got it now , thanks alot man
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i seem to have fixed the issue , you mentioned the servo saver being an issue so i went to check it out and sure enough there was a ton of slop in the servo savers spring , it hadn't been closed enough to do any good , so first i tried the solid servo horn but that caused more issues with binding and over stressing the servo so what i came up with seems to work , i took the spring out of the servo saver and closed it up a bit where you have to stretch it over the inner hub then put it back in , i also re adjusted everything , starting in the middle position with the truck on in 2 wheel low i set the neutral or at rest position first so the spring only had to work in 4 wheel low and 2 wheel high , dialing it in little by little with the rod ends until it worked 97% of the time , good enough , even removed a small amount of plastic that the shift rod binds against coming out of the servo box and put a small bend in the rod for smooth shifting , seems to be fine now , started replacing the junky hardware now , those lock nuts are useless lol thanks for the tips man
i have been looking for bearings for my hg-p407 transmission , the bearings failed after a month now it gust grinds and wont go into gear , im sure il have to replace a couple gears but my question is where can i get bearings for this thing ? what do you recommend ?
I use the fast eddy bearings for the bruiser, they come in a kit and so far so good with the quality, here is the major kit with the one big front transmission bearing, www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Toyota-4x4-Pick-Up-Bruiser-58519-Sealed-Bearing-Kit/164497320711?hash=item264ccdeb07:g:PrUAAOSw31xfpvt9
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Thanks i ordered a set , what grease do you recommend putting in it once rebuilt ? do you have any videos showing how this thing goes back together by any chance ?
Hey dennis wondering if you've had this issue i bought a replacement lower cluster gear and i cant get the transmission to work in 4x4 😳 binds up and skips each turn
Hmm, did you have to remove the shift fork? the reason im asking is the 2 tiny shift shaft ball bearings can move or fall out while reassembling it, this will let the shift forks move out of sequence and lock in 2 gears at the same time, also compare the lower shafts side by side to make sure the gears line up, I had one that the shaft clip was missing and kept moving and locking the tranny up. also check to see if any bearings fell out inside the case during reassembly.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i did have to take the shift fork appart but seams to have it figured out its goes in all gears fine and spins freely in high 1st and 2nd but 4x4 binds just finger testing right now dont wanna break anything
@@raphaelgauthier7481 Good call there , Try hooking the rear driveshaft on it or grab the rear shaft with some plyers for leverage and attempt to turn it over again, the gears on the lower shaft might need some persuasion by hand. if it has some uneven areas on one of the new gears it will need ran to match them together again, those gears are bronze powder press and heated in a mold so they can bind when new. by chance would there be one of the old lower gear pieces stuck in the case?
@@raphaelgauthier7481 I would tear it back apart to investigate the binding problem, try to remove only the back cover first try to spin it while looking inside to see if anything is going wrong then work your way in from there, keep me posted
Great video 👍👍 Loved it The only issue I got with my Hg p407 trany is at times it’s really hard to shift gears compared to original bruiser trany. Especially when the truck is not moving. So I pulled it apart and put Tamiya grease in it which made it worse. And the thing I noticed there’s a .7mm shim missing in between spur gear and planetary gear from the factory. It’s on the diagram in user manual. So I managed to find a right shim and put it in there and still it didn’t make much difference in shifting gears. So I removed it again. Now I got a light coating of motor oil in it as you mentioned and it works okay. But I still have to shift gears when the truck is moving. Other wise servo saver gets damaged. That’s my only disappointment with this gear box comparison to original bruiser gear box . Not sure they all are same or just mine.
Hansaka Nakulugamage Thanks I think the reason for the hard shifting is the shift collars and the connectors on the hgp407 are a huge hex and mating them up takes a wider curve than the fine teeth on the Bruiser shift collars , as for the missing shim I have been hearing more and more about missing parts on them, seems like their quality controls department needs some attention.
Hey Denny, for what it's worth, I've taken another look at the transmission schematic that's shown in the Tamiya re-re Bruiser instruction manual and it appears that third "gear" isn't actually a gear per se but rather power is being channeled directly from the planetary set to the main output shaft (the remaining gears on the main shaft cluster are just spinning free). Second gear is the front gear on the main shaft cluster and first gear is the middle one (the big one). As you've pointed out, the gear on the end of the shaft just drives the output to the front wheels. As such, I'm pretty sure that if the end gear were pinned to the main shaft, you could have full-time 4WD. I have another one of these trucks scheduled to arrive Friday (a kit) and I'll pull the tranny apart and see what's possible. Maybe I'm wrong (I often am) but I'm hoping there's some way to achieve full time 4WD cause I sure hate 2WD!
I was thinking the same thing. The rear gear has bearings inside it so instead of pinning it somehow not sure if it would work I bought a robertson racing 32 pitch 22 tooth pinion with a 5mm shaft and was going to replace the rear 4wd connector gear and see if it would work but havent got my head into it yet because the pinion is a little to long and the rear cover wouldn't go back on enough to seat the lower cluster shaft bearing so I could test it, In theory it should work, like you said 2wd is boring lol. I guess theirs always the option of fitting a transfer case behind the tranny like the TF2 has.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Replacing the stock gear with a motor pinion is an excellent idea!! Maybe, file a small flat on the shaft to seat the grub screw instead of drilling yet another hole for a pin. I still have a full set of 32 dp pinions left from the old days so I may give that a try. Thank you Denny!!
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Was the pinion gear you tried an RRP8722 by chance? According to RR's catalog, that one is "extra high carbon steel" so may not be able to reduce its width on the lathe -- it could be ground to the correct thickness however. Anyway, I was gonna order one and give it a try. thanks Denny!
@@bamabiker750 Your welcome! the one I tried was a 8622 extra hard , I probably went overkill on the hardness lol, I figured that their would be a lot of strain on the gear running both driveshafts in high gear. I am going to grind mine down today and get ready to try it again when my lower cluster shaft arrives its still sitting in customs waiting to be released I should have bought another tranny but 10 bucks for the shaft vs 90 bucks for a tranny , let me know how you make out you will get to yours long before I get to mine.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Thank you Denny, I will let you know how my mods go. I have a hunch that HG used metric units throughout the truck and including the gears so I'm gonna try RRP's .8 mod gear 8722. I think your 8622 gear might be 32dp. Either pitch should work (they're nearly identical) so I'm being different to be different I guess. Anyway, please post an update when you get your tranny re-assembled and tested. Thanks again.
I yanked that sucker along with the battery box! :) I switched to a Axial trans and driveshafts, most if not all parts being used are takeoffs. I'll probably use the HG trans in a semi 6X6. I also switch to a H-Wing crawler esc Flysky rec, replaced/relocated the servo and battery. The supplied electronics along with the motor (torque ringed?) may go into a tug boat. It's not a bad trail scale truck with leafs and has been fun to modify. And that was my initial plan for it since it didn't cost $800! Yikes Tamiya!!! If ya go my route,,,, buy the kit not the RTR. Oh yeah, buy a good quality set of metric Allen drivers. The kit hardware is tight, especially the set screws on the driveshaft.
Yea! love it! your a scratch builder like me! modify one kit to your style and have enough left over stuff to do 5 more scratch builds lol! I want to buy a few more before the prices sky rocket from the demand for future projects. good call on the allen drivers, I built a re release bruiser roller I bought from evilbay and installed the rc4wd v8 and single speed tranny with the tf-2 transfer case and the rc4wd true scale bruiser beadlocks with the interco super swampers its totally better when crawling and bashing, Keep the builds going bro!
I took mine apart how did u think the bearings fit in the housing mine seemed very sloppy. is the tamiya rerealise transmission have pore bearing fit ment. there is a seller on eBay that sells the outer planetary gear in metal thanks for the video I have been running the hell out of mine for a few weeks and have had no problems with it only thing I have done is put shims on the wheel bearings so I could get the play out of them
Yea I noticed the slop in all the bearing fitment, Loose as a mooses poose! lol, definitely no binding there, I will have to get one of those planetary gears when I replace my lower cluster shaft.
Funny my steering servo saver went bad today, I think the reason that the bearings are loose in the clone is they copied the tamiya trans case and during the casting process did not compensate for the expansion. I am going to get a tamiya trans case and try to switch out the internals to see if things fit tighter,
Well my son was running mine in 2nd gear and and the rear end rotated up and the ujoints bound up and snapped a tooth off the idler shaft for 2nd gear bummer
That is a bummer, On my out of the box run my tranny chipped the same gear because it had a piece of wire wrapped up in it and bound up, I just replaced the 3 mm lock nuts on my axles and wheel hubs they kept backing off after hard running, I hope some company starts stocking parts in the usa ordering overseas takes a while to recieve.
My hg P407 trans lever is sometimes hard to pull (in static potiton) it seem they got stuck, it sometimes make the servo saver brake/bend, (on runing gear its a litlle easyer) also, mine was the kit version, and the transmission servo rod seems too long, so the servo did not have enough movement range to make all the 3 speed pull, so im stuck with 2 speed on top of that im afraid to shift on still potition, because it can brake the servo saver, it hapen before.. hope you can give some tips on me.. thanks before.. friend Edit: as i scroll the comment i find alot of similar problem hapen with others.. have a nice day DD
I recently bought an HG P407. Such a sweet truck. So smooth and quiet and actually pretty snappy and fast for what it is! I’ve only run it about five or six times, maybe like 4 hours total run time. The transmission is already beginning to not want to shift. The steering loosened up really fast and I got in to the servo box to try and adjust both servo savers for optimum leverage. I just cannot get the thing to shift reliably anymore. The steering I understand completely. It needs either a solid servo arm with no saver or simply to do the front steering servo mod. What can I do to fix the shifting issue? Would a higher torque servo and solid arm do the trick? Or do I have to get in to the tranny?
I would check your shift servo first, if its ok then your transmission probably needs some grease in it, their hit or miss on the lubrication. some are totally dry inside from the factory. Hot racing makes a alloy front steering arm with ball bearings if you get that and a alloy steering servo arm it really tightens the steering up. They are really a great truck for the money.
Hi sir. I think that i have some issue with my gearbox. I have assemblit it now several times. Getting gears match is my broblem. Some times it shifts ok but most of time rod wont just move. Not even when slowly drive. Everything looks ok inside. Do you have any solution for my issue? Can u make video on working gearbox how it should work properly? Thanks. Oh. And allso i think that those 2 bearings on switching forks is sometimes laggy when i tried to figure my problem.. even when greased.
Hi, seems this transmission has a few problems, I have mine out to replace the chipped lower cluster shaft. I will do another video when I reassemble it and address some of the problems for you and everyone who has contacted me with the issues they are having.
Dennis Dempsey i tried to locate my issue and disconnect 3d gear. I swapped place of that little pipe thing front of planetary. I placed it before bearing so that hex block is totally in planetary and cant connect to glider. I tried this.. 4wd and slow2wd worked perfect. No lag at all when shifting gears. I figured that my issue has to be on that glider/hex what is using 3gear. I put everything back where they was from factory. Then i swapped that ring what glides over hex. And now it looks every gear is going smooth on by hand. Tomorrow i will test it. Hope that issue wass that ring.. maby some casting spur or something on it..
tr4nsporter Cool that you got it figured out, I tore mine down again to look at the shirt collars and noticed one side of them seemed to have a smoother mating surface so I faced that side towards the gear hex and it shifted better than the other side. I also used some 50 weight shock oil because its silicone based and that really helped a lot! How is yours shifting after you put it back together?
Dennis Dempsey hi. My gears are shifting mutch better than when i got it. I got allso issue with original servosaver it was too loose. Now i got new better servos and aluminiun servosaver on shifting. Oh and allso i buyd radiolink rc6gs radio. Its perfect for this toyato. There is lots of trims and 3way switches for gearbox.
Hey Guys!!! Did you know why give some Issue for gear system on transmission HP P407 or Tamiya Bruiser... it's because abuse on very hard terrain specially lock all differential system it will become stressed the GEARBOX... keep open Differential and you will get long live Gear OK? it's OK!!! 👌 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Broke a tooth from the same gear you did. I tried to fix it using jb weld steel reinforced epoxy. Ill see how it goes haha... What's that gear's purpose exactly?
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Dennis sorry i couldn't find your other video with the locking diffs I just got a HG-P407 from offer up for $100 bucks cheap so I jumped on it but the guy lost the extraittle bag with the locking pins do you know what pins I can use other the these cause I can't find any the size is 4x11mm pins can you help?
@@jdm6civic I found these online, I cant seem to find any accessory kits either, I have other hg owners putting play doe or hot glue inside their diffs to lock them also. www.wl-model.com/HG-P407-Parts-CX001Latch-machine-screw-2pcs-Spare-parts-Accessories-For-HG-P407-RC-Car-RC-Truck-Replacement-Parts-3673.html
Hello there, really enjoying your informative videos Dennis. I see that you mention no grease, but rather just oil for the tranny. When I took my p407 trans apart I found that only the clutch system was oiled. The gears were dry. I was thinking of maybe putting some grease on the metal gears, would that be a bad idea? Also what kind of oil do you use in the tranny?
Thanks! It wouldn't hurt it to grease the gears if you wanted, I use the 50 weight silicone shock oil in mine its thick and very slippery and resists a lot of heat.
Yea i'm a little behind on it, I just figured out the torsion bar front suspension, I was having problems finding a spring setup that worked. I will have an up coming video soon.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol awesome.... I hear ya tho... I build rc planes and have trouble finding that right part aswell sometimes... thanks for the response...
In my opinion that transmission looks to fragile, heavy and overcomplicated. gmade gs02f transmission in this kit would be a huge upgrade in terms of durability and performance.
I agree, they copied the tamiya bruiser 3 speed transmission but they are really sloppy inside, and the gears are very weak and break teeth off under hard running.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol I really like the gs02f transmission. It's seems really tough when I put it together. And it doesn't use the fragile micro servos to shift gear like scx10 III and trx4. Speed difference between 1-2gear is massive, so no 3gear is needed. I'm now running 110mm diameter tires and 13t 5-slot motor on my gs02f. My scx10 has 148mm tires and 10t 5-slot motor. Gs02f is still much faster in second gear.
I found with mine I bought the Traxxas servo saver as you said to in another video and it still would just barely miss that middle gear. Looked back through the manual and found from tie rod end to tie rod end on the shifting linkage it says it should be 57mm so I started their. Shortened it a half turn and boom it shifts smooth into all the gears either way you go when you are shifting the gears. Had mine before that to where it would only shift perfect starting in 2 wheel high going up to 4x4 but on the way back through it would miss the middle gear lol. Hope this helps some one know it did me!💯🤪
Cool info brother! Thanks for bringing this to the table for us to adjust our shift points👍👍👍👍
I understand the frustrations with this badass machine and have spent many hours on mine just doing all the under the hood stuff still haven't made it to doing the body work so if I can help others with it in anyway you bet I'm gonna put the knowledge I know out their for everyone, my mom taught me to share lol!💯🤪
Hey Dennis! I know this is an old video but I’m having a hell of a time putting new bearings in the 407. Got a video of some more info on this? I’m ready to throw it out the door🤬🤨. Love your channel and your knowledge, thanks Dave!
Hey Dave I have been watching all the trouble everyone has been going through on these gearboxes and axles trying to install high quality bearings in these kits, I think the casting on the gearboxes has been tired out, I want to buy the Tamiya alloy castings to measure them together for indifferences in bearing clearances.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Good morning Dennis! I got the tranny done! Pulled apart 4 times and finally got it. Very smooth, still can’t figure out how to get my shift points set with my flysky controller. I also made shims from a pop can and put in hubs so bearings didn’t have as much slop. Worked great, took it for a spin and snapped the ball off the axle.😩🙄. Wasn’t running it hard so I’m wondering if it was something I did or just bad luck. Keep up the great videos, love your channel, take care of yourself and have a great day!!✌️😎✌️
i just had my second transmission fail , again the shift fork ground away as did the shift collars turning into metal powder resulting in the shift rod seizing up in the housing , i put tamiya ceramic grease in this transmission i see that did absolutely nothing to make it last longer in fact i only got to drive it 4 times before it failed , if you ever find the time please post a video on how to reassemble the transmissions i bought all the parts to do it there just arent any videos explaining how to do it anywhere on the internet .
I am still using my early transmissions with good luck, I have a later built version that seems to stick and bind. I want to disassemble the 2 and compare them to see why the later ones have problems. I want to do a video on assembling them also.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i noticed on both transmissions that failed they had the same root cause for failure , the slotted rail that the shift forks slide on binds up the balls gouge the track and seize up causing loud grinding and failure of gear teeth , also causes the rear shift collar to wear down filling the trans with metal filings , i think with a steel rail or even a better quality aluminum replacement alot of these issues could be fixed
Well, I was finally able to order one of these, so this video is going to help me out a bunch, so thank you, sir! I like how there's no springs on this one, and I think I'm going to love having motor and pinion choices. I have to admit though, I'll miss the sound of those 32-pitch gears whining...
I was thinking I might drill some holes in the case in strategic places like the original Bruiser tranny's have, for superficial inspection, and lubrication. What do you think? I'll find some some small plugs, then drill the holes to fit them...
It's exiting getting this transmission, because I've had that truck since 1995, and I only got to drive it for 3-4 years, before it started slipping. I couldn't figure out where it was slipping so the truck sat in pieces for about 8 years, before I finally took another crack at it. The slipping gear was that tallest, free-wheeling gear on the the large gear-cluster assembly. I swapped it out for the other one I had, and I was able to drive it again for about a year, before that one started slipping. You can't imagine how happy this makes me that i'll finally have a new transmission for my baby! Now I gotta find a differential bevel gear for my Kyosho 1/9 4runner (EP); I got a little too ambitious when I was pounding it back on the axle shaft with a shim, and cracked the original. That 4runner is my other baby I need to keep running.
That's really cool that your going to get the ole bruiser back on the terra firma! those hg gear boxes have a lot of possible pinion /motor choices, Hot racing makes a steel spur gear for the transmissions to replace the plastic one then you will have all metal gears in it. I was going to drill the holes in all of mine but usually you have to tear it all apart if anything goes wrong anyway. I was so happy when they cloned the bruiser just to have the ability to have extra parts, the Tamiya transmissions were 200.00 back in the day and seem to still fetch 150.00 -200.00 still today for used ones. there is a guy on ebay that makes the new brass replacement gears for the old bruiser and list's them every so often but they are still around 125.00 for them.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Yeah, I'm super-psyched! Actually, they couldn't have picked better time to break down, because from now until late March; it's going to be too cold to drive them outside here in southern Minnesota. Not too cold for me; but when things get brittle as you know, they break easier and I twisted one of the front axle-ends off the Bruiser when it was warm, (because I run 2-way bearings up front, so they power in reverse); so I don't like to chance it if it's freezing, because they bind with no differential. Thanks for the extra info on the metal spur.
About drilling the holes; I think it would be nice, just for keeping it lubed, if nothing else, because I really have to make it last as long as I can, with my budget.
Thanks again for all the info! Cheers!
Hi brother Sorry for the delay in responding UA-cam lost your message to me somehow, so I will answer through this video, the shafts on the transmission can be filed flat on one side to let the grub screw hold it in place, the hg-p407 has plastic spacers to lock the transmission in 1st or 2nd, I have an extra set if you want one, just email me denlin20@aol and give me your address and I will send them to you. the if the motor has 3 notches on the back case (some didn't have them)the tabs have to be pried back and move the back case one notch either way, counter clockwise makes it slower but more power/ clockwise gives more speed but less power.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Okay, thanks a lot and no problem on delay.
Thank you very much for the offer; but I manged to get it locked in low by pulling the shifting shaft out as far as it can go, and using the collar to lock it in place. That should be alright, yes?
Thanks for letting me know about the timing; once I get some warmer weather, I can see better how I like the gearing. You were right about these things being quiet and smooth-sounding. So glad I was finally able to get her trail-worthy again; and how! Got my 1/9 4Runner back together again, too, so I'm a very happy man. Cheers, Brother!
Finally got up the courage to take my hg-p407 transmission apart to put the upgraded bearings in it and that was the worst decision i have ever made lol , i cannot for the life of me get it back together , and to my surprise there are no videos showing how to put this thing together so DANG i was also surprised to see that it has absolutely no grease inside at all , lots of metal shavings though so thats probably fine lol i finally just ordered a new transmission , all i can do is hope it lasts longer than the original did , but at $120 this will be the last trans i buy the next time it fails the trucks going in the trash
I’m having trouble with high gear it just buzzes trying to go forward but works in reverse. Any idea what I should look for when I tear it apart.
check your shift servo to see if its extending enough first, if thats ok then open the front case up where the spur gear is and check the plastic planetary gears, if you still have trouble hit me back up.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol thx for the reply, Im sure the shift servo is moving enough it goes all the way to the c clip. Crazy part is it works in all the other gears and goes fast or In high gear in reverse. I’ll tear it apart tomorrow and peak around.
What type of grease do you recommend for the transmission , or does it not really matter ?
I would use any grease but in light coatings, don't pack it full this will cause shifting problems also try to stay clear of white grease because it dries out and gets hard over time.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol thanks alot man
I have the Tamiya Mountain rider rere. I bought it in 14 and have never had a problem with trans. Shifts smooth and the plastic gears are not normal plastic. They are like a hardend type similar to delrin not the normal nylon (like Clod buster). And is lubed with Tamiya HG grease very low friction compared to regular Tamiya white grease. I have ran mine many times in snow every year with diffs locked and I have also jumped it many times (scale jumps) usually get 7inch of air and haven't broken a gear yet! Also run it in my rock garden in back yard with diffs locked. In snow I run stock tires they work best and everywere else I run rc4wd micky Thompson mtz on the bruiser option original bead lock type rims. I have read more than one report online of the clone metal gears breaking. Always from the lower counter gear shaft just like yours. I can tell ya now the Tamiya by far and away is better quality than clone. However the stock drive shafts will wear out because Tamiya doesn't call for greasing the u joints in them. I have found if you take them apart and lube them with Tamiya antiwear grease and slightly crimp the yoke with pliers to reduce the slop in the u joint block the shafts last waayy longer. Also new rere bruiser/mountain rider has full bearings. And I also have never had problems with axles twisting in the u bolt plates. The rere has cast aluminum axles and trans not pot metal like OG bruiser very nice quality. Just wish Tamiya stuff was cheaper its a shame because so many folks are having fun with this clone and just don't relize what there missing by not getting the Tamiya, its such a fun build! very quality. I have also experimented with the diffs by using Tamiya antiwear grease in them so that they act very much like limited slip diffs in the snow, works very well with 8 little gears the thick sticky grease really slows the diff action. But nothing beats locking them on the rocks! Also tip on the black chassis if the black coating starts to wear off you can use gun blueing liquid on it and blacken it up. (find it at sporting goods store or gun shops).
You have some great tuning and maintenance tips there and I agree with you about Tamiya's second to none quality you sound like you have spent some countless hours building tweaking and tuning the truck that's one of the things that make owning a Tamiya 4x4 fun! I have collected these and had some awesome memories since 1985. No matter what life threw at me good or bad Tamiya has always been there to get me through so I am a true blue Tamiya fan also. I have been following their pricing hikes for some time now and they just raised the prices about 35 percent more in the USA after the HG-P407 clone exploded into the market and I couldn't figure out their strategy there? in my opinion they just handed the bruiser / mountaineer market to the chinese clones to cash in on. I recently seen a rere bruiser priced at 1350.00 no electronics or battery, you can buy 5 rtr HG-P407 trucks for that cost of one tamiya kit. Yeah the radio quality is bad and the clones are not up to tamiya quality but for modifying and bashing the 407 is the better deal for a hobbyist who cant afford the Tamiya version. The HG-P407 brought the hobby back that Tamiya got lost from through the years in my opinion.
The price hikes are from the resent buy out of Greatplanes/Hobbico/Tower Hobbies from Horizon hobby. Tower was selling certain Tamiya kits low enough that they were almost none profit! Now that Horizon owns Tower if you look, only certain Tamiya Kits did not get effected much (pumpkin/lunch box/Grasshopper. Clodbuster, Hilift series and the frog based kits and Bruiser got price jacked big time! Now Tower sells Vatera stuff (aka Horizon) rc trucks and others now. The high Tamiya prices have always been there but only on their official Tamiya USA site. Now the prices are all the same or closer than they used to be. Im glad I bought my Mountain rider when I did! just under $600 with Tower coupons. At least all the Tamiya spare parts are cheap from hobby stores/ebay.
I have 1 complete original Bruiser ,1 original frame and trans and running gear only , 1 re-re and 1 clone . The Tamiyas are lot better quality and the HG is good for the driving I do with it.
the Bruisers are like Lays potato chips you cant have just one lol! I agree the quality is way better on the Tamiya, the clone seems to have better drivability for some unknown reason lol,
do those detent balls on the shift rod have any small springs under them ? i have having a ton of trouble with my hg p407 trans , 2 wheel low just doesnt work right it just pops out of gear and the trans goes into neutral , trying to figure out the issue , tried to adjust the rod end that hooks to the trans and it seemed to work on the bench but as soon as i drove it i realized that it didnt help at all , 2 wheel low really isnt a huge deal it honestly just annoys me that i bought a 3 speed truck only to get a faulty 2 speed box ,
does the shift rod click into position when it reaches a gear ? because mine doesnt it slides around super easy and has about a half inch of slop in it at any given time , im thinking the detent balls are either damaged , undersized or missing
The detent balls only keep the shift fork rod from swiveling up and down and keep one position to slide back and forth, there are no springs just 2 small recesses in the shaft and a slot on the bracket that it sits in, It just slides back and forth no clicking into gear. It would have been nice if they did put 3 divots and a spring with a ball to mark each gear on the shaft but they just copied the Tamiya parts and left to much slop in the process. I know the rtr servo and servo saver is a major problem with them, I changed the servo saver to a solid servo horn and it fixed the shifting problem. I have had a new rtr kit transmission that the balls must have fell inside during assembly and had to tear it down to reinstall them and this sounds like the problem your having. use a little grease or vaseline to stick the balls to the shaft when putting the rod back in helps a lot, when you reassemble your tranny lay it sideways so the shift shaft is in the bottom to keep the detent balls in place and slide it together, once the back housing is in place with at least one screw they will stay in place.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Thanks for the tips , i will try that , i just discovered the assembly diagrams in the manual , so i will be tearing it down soon , i just wanted to make sure that i had some idea what i was getting myself into before i do , i think i got it now , thanks alot man
@@TheRandomMechanic Cool beans, if you run into any problems hit me up,
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol can do
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i seem to have fixed the issue , you mentioned the servo saver being an issue so i went to check it out and sure enough there was a ton of slop in the servo savers spring , it hadn't been closed enough to do any good , so first i tried the solid servo horn but that caused more issues with binding and over stressing the servo so what i came up with seems to work , i took the spring out of the servo saver and closed it up a bit where you have to stretch it over the inner hub then put it back in , i also re adjusted everything , starting in the middle position with the truck on in 2 wheel low i set the neutral or at rest position first so the spring only had to work in 4 wheel low and 2 wheel high , dialing it in little by little with the rod ends until it worked 97% of the time , good enough , even removed a small amount of plastic that the shift rod binds against coming out of the servo box and put a small bend in the rod for smooth shifting , seems to be fine now , started replacing the junky hardware now , those lock nuts are useless lol thanks for the tips man
i have been looking for bearings for my hg-p407 transmission , the bearings failed after a month now it gust grinds and wont go into gear , im sure il have to replace a couple gears but my question is where can i get bearings for this thing ? what do you recommend ?
I use the fast eddy bearings for the bruiser, they come in a kit and so far so good with the quality, here is the major kit with the one big front transmission bearing,
www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Toyota-4x4-Pick-Up-Bruiser-58519-Sealed-Bearing-Kit/164497320711?hash=item264ccdeb07:g:PrUAAOSw31xfpvt9
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Thanks i ordered a set , what grease do you recommend putting in it once rebuilt ? do you have any videos showing how this thing goes back together by any chance ?
Where does one buy the gears for the "lower cluster shaft"?
www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Gear-Assembly-Metal-for-HG-P407-Pickup-Truck-1-10-Car-Upgrade-Parts/303084247830?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item46913a9b16:g:15kAAOSwlf5cfRea&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkpFtSR0CGv%252Bh98r8Yb9quS0X45RAmEVWjoCbGdZo%252B3pwy118VC%252FsfMRKFWitKvOWhhfcT6eGOxEphl77EPGLrbhL88wESX9D9SzJNV1K9LGdmzfZARFHFB00i2y%252BBMgHes9QbO70henA5Kf4uHHfYnAadJ7ydvDfJUZnZQA1a1tNm9fuyjeReVFIJbg%252B7BlGmJBN9ZEja1YEZY6xLs76xv2DlE90RLA%252BwAPvGSzbMHJhgdxOrV4SxlVJbOGAYi0Fd9L5qKlVCRuLLc5ze4EapRIiIKdLGCpN%252FLLc01heIbQtiSVqEHOIqEHX%252FbuwuTvmHvHMY5ui%252FTkugQmBw12EmemO9EwtJbf1Alkk%252Fb3Cp2asGZ4n6WMWzrjrnl0RdIbE4U19E2apbHa7hQ312g09uSztZecgQQmcFUeXX7OH5erScNSb9VoaD8sMyKuW4XawZnn0o%252BdhtwTWisRRk02s752lNpXa1fpykVgMMSY7xlnBZNYu9JVfrHff3qKmJCzpCZHUiF6tESpp8LPmZfJ8%252FktzBbHVVWC5Fvn8mCgsm%252FMODJqPulzutzojI65YAx9Y5HxULjaaMfOQZzQdL0a1qbYLXPmYHUHyR34j6rFlsqwqfAWELjuj2CNnF0W%252FbRXVvsbkhjZ2hMnVppVxSLDwiMOfPQdWF2MHKeJCuGepAz8bRNMeMGOGF2%252BOQaQG7uqiQYmbg8Zwu47VBHGdBdmMXH7MVrP9OPnixo0U%252BHwqTjLAXApnhBt3O47jRUobXkhyU%7Ccksum%3A3030842478301a16c2abcdf548138ac0e62eb036daf0%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
I fount that link on ebay, or search hg-p407 parts its in there.
You da man i searched "lower cluster shaft" after watchin your vid but had no luck 😂
@@raphaelgauthier7481 its a number part like #ASS in the assembly manual ,All parts are available its just everyone uses a different name!
@@raphaelgauthier7481 www.aliexpress.com/item/4000120639215.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.18886876WZYqMO&algo_pvid=d5a25352-d381-4239-bf19-5867413cafcc&algo_expid=d5a25352-d381-4239-bf19-5867413cafcc-6&btsid=0b0a556016062750768927960e2e6f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Hey dennis wondering if you've had this issue i bought a replacement lower cluster gear and i cant get the transmission to work in 4x4 😳 binds up and skips each turn
Hmm, did you have to remove the shift fork? the reason im asking is the 2 tiny shift shaft ball bearings can move or fall out while reassembling it, this will let the shift forks move out of sequence and lock in 2 gears at the same time, also compare the lower shafts side by side to make sure the gears line up, I had one that the shaft clip was missing and kept moving and locking the tranny up. also check to see if any bearings fell out inside the case during reassembly.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i did have to take the shift fork appart but seams to have it figured out its goes in all gears fine and spins freely in high 1st and 2nd but 4x4 binds just finger testing right now dont wanna break anything
@@raphaelgauthier7481 Good call there , Try hooking the rear driveshaft on it or grab the rear shaft with some plyers for leverage and attempt to turn it over again, the gears on the lower shaft might need some persuasion by hand. if it has some uneven areas on one of the new gears it will need ran to match them together again, those gears are bronze powder press and heated in a mold so they can bind when new. by chance would there be one of the old lower gear pieces stuck in the case?
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol i can turn it over forcing with plyers but it dont sound or feel the best 😂
@@raphaelgauthier7481 I would tear it back apart to investigate the binding problem, try to remove only the back cover first try to spin it while looking inside to see if anything is going wrong then work your way in from there, keep me posted
Great video 👍👍 Loved it
The only issue I got with my Hg p407 trany is at times it’s really hard to shift gears compared to original bruiser trany. Especially when the truck is not moving. So I pulled it apart and put Tamiya grease in it which made it worse. And the thing I noticed there’s a .7mm shim missing in between spur gear and planetary gear from the factory. It’s on the diagram in user manual.
So I managed to find a right shim and put it in there and still it didn’t make much difference in shifting gears. So I removed it again.
Now I got a light coating of motor oil in it as you mentioned and it works okay.
But I still have to shift gears when the truck is moving. Other wise servo saver gets damaged. That’s my only disappointment with this gear box comparison to original bruiser gear box . Not sure they all are same or just mine.
Hansaka Nakulugamage Thanks I think the reason for the hard shifting is the shift collars and the connectors on the hgp407 are a huge hex and mating them up takes a wider curve than the fine teeth on the Bruiser shift collars , as for the missing shim I have been hearing more and more about missing parts on them, seems like their quality controls department needs some attention.
Hey I put some hobby grade 50w silicone shock oil in my hg-p407 tranny last week and it really improved the shifting.
Can we put traxxas lube in that?
yes that will work also.
Hey Denny, for what it's worth, I've taken another look at the transmission schematic that's shown in the Tamiya re-re Bruiser instruction manual and it appears that third "gear" isn't actually a gear per se but rather power is being channeled directly from the planetary set to the main output shaft (the remaining gears on the main shaft cluster are just spinning free). Second gear is the front gear on the main shaft cluster and first gear is the middle one (the big one). As you've pointed out, the gear on the end of the shaft just drives the output to the front wheels. As such, I'm pretty sure that if the end gear were pinned to the main shaft, you could have full-time 4WD. I have another one of these trucks scheduled to arrive Friday (a kit) and I'll pull the tranny apart and see what's possible. Maybe I'm wrong (I often am) but I'm hoping there's some way to achieve full time 4WD cause I sure hate 2WD!
I was thinking the same thing. The rear gear has bearings inside it so instead of pinning it somehow not sure if it would work I bought a robertson racing 32 pitch 22 tooth pinion with a 5mm shaft and was going to replace the rear 4wd connector gear and see if it would work but havent got my head into it yet because the pinion is a little to long and the rear cover wouldn't go back on enough to seat the lower cluster shaft bearing so I could test it, In theory it should work, like you said 2wd is boring lol. I guess theirs always the option of fitting a transfer case behind the tranny like the TF2 has.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Replacing the stock gear with a motor pinion is an excellent idea!! Maybe, file a small flat on the shaft to seat the grub screw instead of drilling yet another hole for a pin. I still have a full set of 32 dp pinions left from the old days so I may give that a try. Thank you Denny!!
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Was the pinion gear you tried an RRP8722 by chance? According to RR's catalog, that one is "extra high carbon steel" so may not be able to reduce its width on the lathe -- it could be ground to the correct thickness however. Anyway, I was gonna order one and give it a try. thanks Denny!
@@bamabiker750 Your welcome! the one I tried was a 8622 extra hard , I probably went overkill on the hardness lol, I figured that their would be a lot of strain on the gear running both driveshafts in high gear. I am going to grind mine down today and get ready to try it again when my lower cluster shaft arrives its still sitting in customs waiting to be released I should have bought another tranny but 10 bucks for the shaft vs 90 bucks for a tranny , let me know how you make out you will get to yours long before I get to mine.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Thank you Denny, I will let you know how my mods go. I have a hunch that HG used metric units throughout the truck and including the gears so I'm gonna try RRP's .8 mod gear 8722. I think your 8622 gear might be 32dp. Either pitch should work (they're nearly identical) so I'm being different to be different I guess. Anyway, please post an update when you get your tranny re-assembled and tested. Thanks again.
I yanked that sucker along with the battery box! :)
I switched to a Axial trans and driveshafts, most if not all parts being used are takeoffs. I'll probably use the HG trans in a semi 6X6. I also switch to a H-Wing crawler esc Flysky rec, replaced/relocated the servo and battery. The supplied electronics along with the motor (torque ringed?) may go into a tug boat.
It's not a bad trail scale truck with leafs and has been fun to modify. And that was my initial plan for it since it didn't cost $800! Yikes Tamiya!!!
If ya go my route,,,, buy the kit not the RTR. Oh yeah, buy a good quality set of metric Allen drivers. The kit hardware is tight, especially the set screws on the driveshaft.
Yea! love it! your a scratch builder like me! modify one kit to your style and have enough left over stuff to do 5 more scratch builds lol! I want to buy a few more before the prices sky rocket from the demand for future projects. good call on the allen drivers, I built a re release bruiser roller I bought from evilbay and installed the rc4wd v8 and single speed tranny with the tf-2 transfer case and the rc4wd true scale bruiser beadlocks with the interco super swampers its totally better when crawling and bashing, Keep the builds going bro!
Thinking about tracks for snow Thank you for the videos I have 2 hgp 407 and 1 bruiser and it's a basket case
I put a set of tracks on one of my 407's. it was really cool!
I took mine apart how did u think the bearings fit in the housing mine seemed very sloppy. is the tamiya rerealise transmission have pore bearing fit ment. there is a seller on eBay that sells the outer planetary gear in metal thanks for the video I have been running the hell out of mine for a few weeks and have had no problems with it only thing I have done is put shims on the wheel bearings so I could get the play out of them
Yea I noticed the slop in all the bearing fitment, Loose as a mooses poose! lol, definitely no binding there, I will have to get one of those planetary gears when I replace my lower cluster shaft.
The Tamiya trans bearings fit pretty good in the Bruiser 2012 that I built. The only problem I have had with my HG shifting was the servo saver
Funny my steering servo saver went bad today, I think the reason that the bearings are loose in the clone is they copied the tamiya trans case and during the casting process did not compensate for the expansion. I am going to get a tamiya trans case and try to switch out the internals to see if things fit tighter,
Well my son was running mine in 2nd gear and and the rear end rotated up and the ujoints bound up and snapped a tooth off the idler shaft for 2nd gear bummer
That is a bummer, On my out of the box run my tranny chipped the same gear because it had a piece of wire wrapped up in it and bound up, I just replaced the 3 mm lock nuts on my axles and wheel hubs they kept backing off after hard running, I hope some company starts stocking parts in the usa ordering overseas takes a while to recieve.
My hg P407 trans lever is sometimes hard to pull (in static potiton) it seem they got stuck, it sometimes make the servo saver brake/bend, (on runing gear its a litlle easyer)
also, mine was the kit version, and the transmission servo rod seems too long, so the servo did not have enough movement range to make all the 3 speed pull, so im stuck with 2 speed on top of that im afraid to shift on still potition, because it can brake the servo saver, it hapen before..
hope you can give some tips on me.. thanks before.. friend
Edit: as i scroll the comment i find alot of similar problem hapen with others.. have a nice day DD
I recently bought an HG P407. Such a sweet truck. So smooth and quiet and actually pretty snappy and fast for what it is! I’ve only run it about five or six times, maybe like 4 hours total run time. The transmission is already beginning to not want to shift. The steering loosened up really fast and I got in to the servo box to try and adjust both servo savers for optimum leverage. I just cannot get the thing to shift reliably anymore. The steering I understand completely. It needs either a solid servo arm with no saver or simply to do the front steering servo mod. What can I do to fix the shifting issue? Would a higher torque servo and solid arm do the trick? Or do I have to get in to the tranny?
I would check your shift servo first, if its ok then your transmission probably needs some grease in it, their hit or miss on the lubrication. some are totally dry inside from the factory. Hot racing makes a alloy front steering arm with ball bearings if you get that and a alloy steering servo arm it really tightens the steering up. They are really a great truck for the money.
Hi sir. I think that i have some issue with my gearbox. I have assemblit it now several times. Getting gears match is my broblem. Some times it shifts ok but most of time rod wont just move. Not even when slowly drive. Everything looks ok inside. Do you have any solution for my issue? Can u make video on working gearbox how it should work properly? Thanks. Oh. And allso i think that those 2 bearings on switching forks is sometimes laggy when i tried to figure my problem.. even when greased.
Hi, seems this transmission has a few problems, I have mine out to replace the chipped lower cluster shaft. I will do another video when I reassemble it and address some of the problems for you and everyone who has contacted me with the issues they are having.
Dennis Dempsey i tried to locate my issue and disconnect 3d gear. I swapped place of that little pipe thing front of planetary. I placed it before bearing so that hex block is totally in planetary and cant connect to glider. I tried this.. 4wd and slow2wd worked perfect. No lag at all when shifting gears. I figured that my issue has to be on that glider/hex what is using 3gear. I put everything back where they was from factory. Then i swapped that ring what glides over hex. And now it looks every gear is going smooth on by hand. Tomorrow i will test it. Hope that issue wass that ring.. maby some casting spur or something on it..
tr4nsporter Cool that you got it figured out, I tore mine down again to look at the shirt collars and noticed one side of them seemed to have a smoother mating surface so I faced that side towards the gear hex and it shifted better than the other side. I also used some 50 weight shock oil because its silicone based and that really helped a lot! How is yours shifting after you put it back together?
Dennis Dempsey hi. My gears are shifting mutch better than when i got it. I got allso issue with original servosaver it was too loose. Now i got new better servos and aluminiun servosaver on shifting. Oh and allso i buyd radiolink rc6gs radio. Its perfect for this toyato. There is lots of trims and 3way switches for gearbox.
Hey Guys!!! Did you know why give some
Issue for gear system on transmission HP P407 or Tamiya Bruiser... it's because abuse on very hard terrain specially lock all differential system it will become stressed the GEARBOX... keep open Differential and you will get long live Gear OK? it's OK!!! 👌 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
That's some good advice especially with a brushless system upgrade.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol for crawler Brushless motor is not good idea my bro.. sorry for that...
That's true, I use mine for a rally off road truck
Broke a tooth from the same gear you did. I tried to fix it using jb weld steel reinforced epoxy. Ill see how it goes haha... What's that gear's purpose exactly?
Lol wonder if it will hold, that little gear is the 1st gear on the lower cluster shaft.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol I'm impressed.. held for a bit but It couldn't take much abuse. In its defense i only let it to cure for 1 day.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Are the original tamiya gears compatable? At least the 14,17 and 21t ones?
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol Dennis sorry i couldn't find your other video with the locking diffs I just got a HG-P407 from offer up for $100 bucks cheap so I jumped on it but the guy lost the extraittle bag with the locking pins do you know what pins I can use other the these cause I can't find any the size is 4x11mm pins can you help?
@@jdm6civic I found these online, I cant seem to find any accessory kits either, I have other hg owners putting play doe or hot glue inside their diffs to lock them also. www.wl-model.com/HG-P407-Parts-CX001Latch-machine-screw-2pcs-Spare-parts-Accessories-For-HG-P407-RC-Car-RC-Truck-Replacement-Parts-3673.html
Hello there, really enjoying your informative videos Dennis. I see that you mention no grease, but rather just oil for the tranny. When I took my p407 trans apart I found that only the clutch system was oiled. The gears were dry. I was thinking of maybe putting some grease on the metal gears, would that be a bad idea? Also what kind of oil do you use in the tranny?
Thanks! It wouldn't hurt it to grease the gears if you wanted, I use the 50 weight silicone shock oil in mine its thick and very slippery and resists a lot of heat.
Hello again...
How's the charger build going? Really looking forward to seeing her all done. Great vids thanks
Yea i'm a little behind on it, I just figured out the torsion bar front suspension, I was having problems finding a spring setup that worked. I will have an up coming video soon.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol awesome.... I hear ya tho... I build rc planes and have trouble finding that right part aswell sometimes... thanks for the response...
The silver housing looks cracked on your transmission?
that was some grease on the housing that looked like a crack,
In my opinion that transmission looks to fragile, heavy and overcomplicated. gmade gs02f transmission in this kit would be a huge upgrade in terms of durability and performance.
I agree, they copied the tamiya bruiser 3 speed transmission but they are really sloppy inside, and the gears are very weak and break teeth off under hard running.
@@dennisdempseyradiooutofcontrol I really like the gs02f transmission. It's seems really tough when I put it together. And it doesn't use the fragile micro servos to shift gear like scx10 III and trx4. Speed difference between 1-2gear is massive, so no 3gear is needed. I'm now running 110mm diameter tires and 13t 5-slot motor on my gs02f. My scx10 has 148mm tires and 10t 5-slot motor. Gs02f is still much faster in second gear.
I think the HG P407 gears are sintered like this but on a smaller scale? ua-cam.com/video/s1TGXa3pB5M/v-deo.html
yep that's the process but they use bronze powder,
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