If you have a cheap drill bit set from harbor freight you can drill those out and cut part off the bottom of the drill bit as the new dowel instead of being a new power valve.
I Have a 94 250- I had a good metal guy here in North CA- press a Wisco sleeve to move the piston away from PV-- When I kept Ni-cad the old barrel,my rings would take out my $400 PV all the time when wide open Nice videos
Thanks for making the great videos! I had a question about the assembly. I replaced the whole powervalve assembly in the bike. After turning the bike on, there was a continuously loud tick coming from the powervalve. Do you know if you have to tune it to sit properly in the chamber? Do you have to do anything with the powervalve governor? Or once you install it correctly it should be alright. Thanks
So where did you end up getting he power valve from I recently baught a bike missing top end completely I've found a jug and head cap but needing all the power valve assembly he one that was in this jug was broke and un usable as alot of the parts to go with it
Fix the power valve stops,replacing the cover and P/V wont last as they are made of soft alloy and flog out super quick. Fit steel allen head screws in both and it will never wear again!
At the end of the PV is a flat stop and the cover on the same end has a corresponding flat stop. The cover is made of soft shite alloy and the PV hammers the cover stop out of shape allowing the PV to over retract. This in turn allows the PV to protrude back into the cylinder where the piston rubbs on the PV, eventually snagging a ring and BOOM! If you drill and tap holes in the stoppers and screw in steel grub screws flush with the stoppers this will prevent any more wear / grenading.
If you have a cheap drill bit set from harbor freight you can drill those out and cut part off the bottom of the drill bit as the new dowel instead of being a new power valve.
Why did he take the sub frame of just to mess with the power value
I Have a 94 250- I had a good metal guy here in North CA- press a Wisco sleeve to move the piston away from PV-- When I kept Ni-cad the old barrel,my rings would take out my $400 PV all the time when wide open Nice videos
Thanks for making the great videos! I had a question about the assembly. I replaced the whole powervalve assembly in the bike. After turning the bike on, there was a continuously loud tick coming from the powervalve. Do you know if you have to tune it to sit properly in the chamber? Do you have to do anything with the powervalve governor? Or once you install it correctly it should be alright. Thanks
Was it the 1997 power valve
So where did you end up getting he power valve from I recently baught a bike missing top end completely I've found a jug and head cap but needing all the power valve assembly he one that was in this jug was broke and un usable as alot of the parts to go with it
Did you ever find one?
Fix the power valve stops,replacing the cover and P/V wont last as they are made of soft alloy and flog out super quick.
Fit steel allen head screws in both and it will never wear again!
What do u mean fit a Allen screw? Where at
At the end of the PV is a flat stop and the cover on the same end has a corresponding flat stop. The cover is made of soft shite alloy and the PV hammers the cover stop out of shape allowing the PV to over retract. This in turn allows the PV to protrude back into the cylinder where the piston rubbs on the PV, eventually snagging a ring and BOOM!
If you drill and tap holes in the stoppers and screw in steel grub screws flush with the stoppers this will prevent any more wear / grenading.