With everyone going high pivot how about the advantages of having weight mass concentrated as low as possible? I can feel it with water bottles or more to the point when heavy pieces like shock and suspension linkage are situated much lower in the frame, I can feel it for sure but is that really "something"?
Buying a new rotor just because you switched pads is crazy just clean the rotors and sand them perpendicular to the braking track to get rid of whatever material was on there before. I can’t believe they went straight to buying new rotors lmao
I weigh 235lbs, I can't tell you how many times someone told me how much they spent to lose a pound of weight on their bike and all I can think is I lost that much by taking a 💩earlier.
It’s going to blow your mind when someone tells you that it isn’t an “either/or”. You can spend money to lose bike weight AND lose body weight too (by taking a shit or otherwise)
Strength to weight ratio is so important of course you have to have strength & fitness for sure. I was riding a very technical trail uphill & a rider on a Hardtail went right up a section of trail I have never even attempted & I’m a very skilled & seasoned rider. But ya that simple factor is everything.
Hench on hills, my favourite way of working out. I absolutely love hill climbing, love coming down them too… that’s why I won’t invents in an ebike until I really need to.
I’m not huge into spending premiums for slight weight reduction however lighter wheels (and tires) can make a bike feel like a rocket with acceleration.
I "clean" my rotors with a battery operated die grinder using the blue or grey scuff pad at 10,000 rpm. I also replace the rotors after 2 or 3 pad replacements. No problems for the last 15 years. Maximize your power to weight ratio before spending excessively on your steed. Upgrade as things wear out/break, or your riding style dictates. ✌
I have always used air powered die grinders maybe I should have bought a battery powered one years ago. Does yours use rechargeable batteries and can you use a battery for an hour at one time?
I have a milwaukee m12 die grinder. It uses the m12 batteries. I don't use mine continuously and I switch the battery between tools. My best guess would be about 30 minutes of medium to light pressure run time on a 4 Amp hour battery. There's nothing wrong with using a pneumatic to do the same thing, however, you will have to capture any oil exhausting from the tool. ✌️
@@stevengoodwin3154 luckily I work inside of die cast machines and the exhaust comes out of the back of the grinder. I think I use those batteries in my heated jacket for deer hunting
8:17 If I remember it correctly BrakeStuff claims their design on Punch disc with many tiny holes aids cooling, reduces pad wear, stiffness. But it makes sense. I see they they recommend Organic/Semi metallic pads. But if it's good ones it should work well I think. Not sure why they don't recommend metallic pads. Here's a quote: ''Brake surface with many small holes to increase the effective area to absorb and dissipate the heat generated during braking ➔ 30% more surface area compared to a comparable standard brake disc less wear of the brake pads due to many small holes in the brake surface use with organic / semi-organic brake pads Brake pads that do not harmonize optimally with the Punch Disc Trickstuff Standard und Power ''
4:30 i have a small addition to the tyre solution. There is a myth about "oh you only have to change your rear tyre because [reasons]". And yes, the rear tyre gets some 60% weight load, but that's still 40% on the front tyre. It's a massive difference going from, say, two 1kg Argotal to dual sub-600g RaceKing while the difference of changing only the rear tyre is barely noticable, since there is still so much drag and weight on the front. You can even feel a severe drag on a CrossKing - RaceKing setup riding on hardpack. Try getting your hands on two really light tyres if you live on hardpack and gravel - it's an awesome experience :) Just be aware of the reduced puncture and slit protection if you and the bike are on the sturdy, heavy side of life. And make sure that you get really grippy ones like the RaceKing or CrossKing to compensate for the "my knobs are now smaller but faster"-thing.
Great advice on not mixing sealants brands. But I have found a happy medium with a special blend of 50/50 Stans regular sealant and Stans Race. I find using only Race is excellent at aggressive sealing but a bit too much for regular riding since it dries up quicker and requires frequent valve stem replacements.
by the time the forks feel notchy the damage is already done. every year if you ride, once every two years if you kinda ride, open to interpration. Fork service every new chain & cassette.
WEAK. I don't buy into your argument to switching rotors because of material transfer. That would be no different than starting off with a fresh rotor. You still have to go through the process of bedding in. I would rather a more scientific explanation of the rotor differences - resin/ organic only versus sintered/metallic. Is there a difference in the steel being used (quality, hardness) or the thickness of the rotor itself or is this just marketing to make us buy more products?
That's what I was thinking, as you suggested the simple and cost effective solution would be to resurface lightly the rotors with fine grit then just bead in the pads and rotors as new.
@@nathantoney.1501 Great idea - seek an engineer specializing in metals. I was thinking they start by asking the manufacturers such as Shimano and Sram to justify why they recommend it rather than pass nothing of value on to us.
I can’t believe they went straight to telling everybody to buy new rotors. I clean and sand my rotors with new pads now, but before I knew to do that I’d just go straight from resin to sintered and have no issues
#askgmbntech. I’m just wondering about the durability of pedal based power meters vs spider/crank based meters. I’m curious about the impact of pedal strikes
I don't see a valid reason to swap rotors, if they are not worn out. Once they are glazed I sand them. Resurfacing makes them like a fresh rotor. If done properly. Unless the brakes leak or are contaminated. At least with Formula pads swapping pads over does not seem do do anything, once I bedded in the brakes and they worked well. I tested it without sanding rotors, it worked. But some resin pads are horrible no matter what at least Shimano ones were in my experience. But the Shimano Resin only rotors are hopeless, the resin pads wear fast, bite badly, unless they have changed something in the recent years. But the metallic eat the Resin only rotors, but bite better, but even they overheat and glaze fast, also never got them to work even with sanding. But maybe it has to do with the softer steel, at least that's what some claim. I upgraded to Hope floating rotors in same size and it was a massive difference. But after years of use they creaked, but braking surface did not wear out. but sold them as I needed bigger rotors for the enduro bike. I got used Trickstuff rotors offered to me so I went for it, half of the retail, I wanted to go for regular rotors, no floating part, no rivets to creak.
#AskGMBNTech. I have a question for Owen. I have recent purchased an "ex demo" Orbea Rallon. When changing the yoke on the rear shock to change wheel size. How do you get the bolts at the top of the seatstays to the 12 N.m? When you can't get your torque wrench inbetween the stays. Plus your arm isn't "calibrated".
Latex-based tyre sealants are pretty compatible. I never hesitated to mix them when I had to top off with a different brand and I have NEVER had any kind of negative experience or fail of fuctioning on the six tyres of my three bikes over the last 10'000 km of trail and fireroad riding. The brands sure wish you stick religiously to their own stuff, though
#askgmbntech any differences between eMTB and analog MTB suspension? Fox website shows dedicated forks but I can't compare P/Ns as the analog isn't listed. But I'm a heavy rider, at 250lbs i run max psi and 3 spacers on a rockshox deluxe and still eat 80 to 90 percent on less then 3 foot drops. I run sag at 15% and this shock was recently rebuilt.
I just get a lot of enjoyment out of working on bikes and making them as light as light as possible while also being reliable. It's like a game to me that I enjoy almost as much as riding. And I'm in great shape. 5'10" (178 cm), 150 lbs (68 kg). There's no amount of weight left to cut from me as a rider.
#askgmbntech I keep seeing people on roadie channels including GCN talk about chain waxing for road and gravel. Is this in any way relevant for mountainbiking XC, XC marathon or is it just a complete waste of time? Time for a video and some experimenting? Keep the good content coming. Thanks.
Wax is way better. Imagine a clean drivertrain that doesn't attract dirt? I've used Squirt Lube and another wax for the last year and would never go back. You don't need to take the chain off either
I have moved to imersive waxing my chains and overall it saves so much time and everything stays so much cleaner. After a dirty ride I just pop the chain off, give it a quick shake in a jar with some methylated spirit, let it dry whilst I'm waiting for the wax pot to heat up, then stick it in for 5 mins and hang it up to dry. Yes this takes longer than a drip lube, but I never have that horrible job of cleaning and degreasing my drivetrain... and all the oily mess that gets on the frame and rear wheel. It feels like a new chain each time, and as all the grit gets flushed out and the voids packed with solid wax you get many more miles out of each chain
#AskGMBNTech I don't use all of my fork's travel (RockShox Pike Select 29”, on a Vitus Escarpe 29 CRS), no tokens, sag is bang on 30% as per your recent vids. I ride as hard as I can, am I just over forked/biked, what can I do to use that last inch (careful) of fork travel?! 😉
A lighter bike is definitely easier to manage and maneuver. I’d much rather be a fat guy on a lighter bike vs. a fat guy on a heavy bike. A heavier bike puts more strain and burden on your body.
went on a diet lost 20kg my ebike flys now so much more responsive and exercise is so much easier. my issue is i run coil shocks and they are 20kgs out now haha but i feel great
i will stick with it for now as the old coil fork 2008 rockshox lyric UTURN is impossible to find parts for which is a shame as its in such good condition @@gmbntech
Light saddles are not that stupid you can really feel it when you move the bike around, actually I try to get everything as light as possible especially unsuspended weight and everything above the axles...
#AskGMBNTech I have a 2023 Fuid FS A2. It has 140mm front fork and 130mm rear shock. Will i gain anything with going 150mm on a front fork? If i go up on the front fork do I need to increase the mm on the rear shock? Thanks
It’s will make the front a little more slack. That may cause an understeer effect possible because the tire contact patch is further “ahead”. It would also raise the BB a tiny bit. Long story short, it’s a compromise. A very very small compromise
Do you have a question for us here at GMBN Tech? Ask away in the comments, and be sure to use #AskGMBNTech for a chance to be featured! 👇
With everyone going high pivot how about the advantages of having weight mass concentrated as low as possible? I can feel it with water bottles or more to the point when heavy pieces like shock and suspension linkage are situated much lower in the frame, I can feel it for sure but is that really "something"?
Buying a new rotor just because you switched pads is crazy just clean the rotors and sand them perpendicular to the braking track to get rid of whatever material was on there before.
I can’t believe they went straight to buying new rotors lmao
I weigh 235lbs, I can't tell you how many times someone told me how much they spent to lose a pound of weight on their bike and all I can think is I lost that much by taking a 💩earlier.
I used to have a simple strategy: drill holes!
Not recommended on humans 😅
Btw your comment made me spill coffee through my nose, cheers 😂
It’s going to blow your mind when someone tells you that it isn’t an “either/or”. You can spend money to lose bike weight AND lose body weight too (by taking a shit or otherwise)
😂😂😂
Don't think it weighs a pound,maybe yours do.😆
Strength to weight ratio is so important of course you have to have strength & fitness for sure. I was riding a very technical trail uphill & a rider on a Hardtail went right up a section of trail I have never even attempted & I’m a very skilled & seasoned rider. But ya that simple factor is everything.
Hench on hills, my favourite way of working out. I absolutely love hill climbing, love coming down them too… that’s why I won’t invents in an ebike until I really need to.
I’m not huge into spending premiums for slight weight reduction however lighter wheels (and tires) can make a bike feel like a rocket with acceleration.
I like to know difference, on bike sometimes I pick sintered but I mainly go ceramic now
I "clean" my rotors with a battery operated die grinder using the blue or grey scuff pad at 10,000 rpm. I also replace the rotors after 2 or 3 pad replacements. No problems for the last 15 years.
Maximize your power to weight ratio before spending excessively on your steed. Upgrade as things wear out/break, or your riding style dictates. ✌
I have always used air powered die grinders maybe I should have bought a battery powered one years ago. Does yours use rechargeable batteries and can you use a battery for an hour at one time?
I have a milwaukee m12 die grinder. It uses the m12 batteries. I don't use mine continuously and I switch the battery between tools. My best guess would be about 30 minutes of medium to light pressure run time on a 4 Amp hour battery. There's nothing wrong with using a pneumatic to do the same thing, however, you will have to capture any oil exhausting from the tool. ✌️
@@stevengoodwin3154 luckily I work inside of die cast machines and the exhaust comes out of the back of the grinder. I think I use those batteries in my heated jacket for deer hunting
8:17 If I remember it correctly BrakeStuff claims their design on Punch disc with many tiny holes aids cooling, reduces pad wear, stiffness. But it makes sense.
I see they they recommend Organic/Semi metallic pads. But if it's good ones it should work well I think. Not sure why they don't recommend metallic pads.
Here's a quote:
''Brake surface with many small holes to increase the effective area to absorb and dissipate the heat generated during braking ➔ 30% more surface area compared to a comparable standard brake disc
less wear of the brake pads due to many small holes in the brake surface
use with organic / semi-organic brake pads
Brake pads that do not harmonize optimally with the Punch Disc
Trickstuff Standard und Power
''
4:30 i have a small addition to the tyre solution. There is a myth about "oh you only have to change your rear tyre because [reasons]". And yes, the rear tyre gets some 60% weight load, but that's still 40% on the front tyre. It's a massive difference going from, say, two 1kg Argotal to dual sub-600g RaceKing while the difference of changing only the rear tyre is barely noticable, since there is still so much drag and weight on the front. You can even feel a severe drag on a CrossKing - RaceKing setup riding on hardpack. Try getting your hands on two really light tyres if you live on hardpack and gravel - it's an awesome experience :) Just be aware of the reduced puncture and slit protection if you and the bike are on the sturdy, heavy side of life. And make sure that you get really grippy ones like the RaceKing or CrossKing to compensate for the "my knobs are now smaller but faster"-thing.
Great advice on not mixing sealants brands. But I have found a happy medium with a special blend of 50/50 Stans regular sealant and Stans Race. I find using only Race is excellent at aggressive sealing but a bit too much for regular riding since it dries up quicker and requires frequent valve stem replacements.
Dont 26 inch wheels weigh much less than 29er wheels?
yup, bmc trailfox full sus 13Kg with DH tyres 26er
by the time the forks feel notchy the damage is already done. every year if you ride, once every two years if you kinda ride, open to interpration. Fork service every new chain & cassette.
I needed this video, cheers
Thanks for watching! Glad we could help 🫡
WEAK. I don't buy into your argument to switching rotors because of material transfer. That would be no different than starting off with a fresh rotor. You still have to go through the process of bedding in. I would rather a more scientific explanation of the rotor differences - resin/ organic only versus sintered/metallic. Is there a difference in the steel being used (quality, hardness) or the thickness of the rotor itself or is this just marketing to make us buy more products?
That's what I was thinking, as you suggested the simple and cost effective solution would be to resurface lightly the rotors with fine grit then just bead in the pads and rotors as new.
Let’s donate money for them to buy an electron microscope and camera to investigate the pad/rotor bedding material analysis
@@nathantoney.1501 Great idea - seek an engineer specializing in metals. I was thinking they start by asking the manufacturers such as Shimano and Sram to justify why they recommend it rather than pass nothing of value on to us.
I can’t believe they went straight to telling everybody to buy new rotors. I clean and sand my rotors with new pads now, but before I knew to do that I’d just go straight from resin to sintered and have no issues
I have switched between resin and sintered for many many years never once have heard this theory or felt any difference
#askgmbntech. I’m just wondering about the durability of pedal based power meters vs spider/crank based meters. I’m curious about the impact of pedal strikes
I don't see a valid reason to swap rotors, if they are not worn out. Once they are glazed I sand them. Resurfacing makes them like a fresh rotor. If done properly. Unless the brakes leak or are contaminated.
At least with Formula pads swapping pads over does not seem do do anything, once I bedded in the brakes and they worked well. I tested it without sanding rotors, it worked. But some resin pads are horrible no matter what at least Shimano ones were in my experience.
But the Shimano Resin only rotors are hopeless, the resin pads wear fast, bite badly, unless they have changed something in the recent years. But the metallic eat the Resin only rotors, but bite better, but even they overheat and glaze fast, also never got them to work even with sanding. But maybe it has to do with the softer steel, at least that's what some claim. I upgraded to Hope floating rotors in same size and it was a massive difference. But after years of use they creaked, but braking surface did not wear out. but sold them as I needed bigger rotors for the enduro bike.
I got used Trickstuff rotors offered to me so I went for it, half of the retail, I wanted to go for regular rotors, no floating part, no rivets to creak.
#AskGMBNTech
How to service and inspect the bike after a crash??
#AskGMBNTech. I have a question for Owen. I have recent purchased an "ex demo" Orbea Rallon. When changing the yoke on the rear shock to change wheel size. How do you get the bolts at the top of the seatstays to the 12 N.m? When you can't get your torque wrench inbetween the stays. Plus your arm isn't "calibrated".
11:00 don't mix Conti RevoSealant with MucOff Sealant :) They gunk up after minutes.
Thanks for the tip!
Latex-based tyre sealants are pretty compatible. I never hesitated to mix them when I had to top off with a different brand and I have NEVER had any kind of negative experience or fail of fuctioning on the six tyres of my three bikes over the last 10'000 km of trail and fireroad riding.
The brands sure wish you stick religiously to their own stuff, though
If you have the time, you can email each company and ask. Most will tell you which brands are compatible but it's a lengthy process!
#askgmbntech any differences between eMTB and analog MTB suspension? Fox website shows dedicated forks but I can't compare P/Ns as the analog isn't listed. But I'm a heavy rider, at 250lbs i run max psi and 3 spacers on a rockshox deluxe and still eat 80 to 90 percent on less then 3 foot drops. I run sag at 15% and this shock was recently rebuilt.
I just get a lot of enjoyment out of working on bikes and making them as light as light as possible while also being reliable. It's like a game to me that I enjoy almost as much as riding. And I'm in great shape. 5'10" (178 cm), 150 lbs (68 kg). There's no amount of weight left to cut from me as a rider.
What is the best way to cut weight from a bike that you've found? 🤔
#askgmbntech I keep seeing people on roadie channels including GCN talk about chain waxing for road and gravel. Is this in any way relevant for mountainbiking XC, XC marathon or is it just a complete waste of time? Time for a video and some experimenting? Keep the good content coming. Thanks.
Wax is way better. Imagine a clean drivertrain that doesn't attract dirt? I've used Squirt Lube and another wax for the last year and would never go back. You don't need to take the chain off either
I have moved to imersive waxing my chains and overall it saves so much time and everything stays so much cleaner. After a dirty ride I just pop the chain off, give it a quick shake in a jar with some methylated spirit, let it dry whilst I'm waiting for the wax pot to heat up, then stick it in for 5 mins and hang it up to dry. Yes this takes longer than a drip lube, but I never have that horrible job of cleaning and degreasing my drivetrain... and all the oily mess that gets on the frame and rear wheel. It feels like a new chain each time, and as all the grit gets flushed out and the voids packed with solid wax you get many more miles out of each chain
#ASKGMBNTECH Is there a specific bedding process for new pads and rotors like there is when you change pads on a vehicle?
#AskGMBTTech Can you repair carbon frames? And if you can will they be the same as strong?
#AskGMBNTech I don't use all of my fork's travel (RockShox Pike Select 29”, on a Vitus Escarpe 29 CRS), no tokens, sag is bang on 30% as per your recent vids. I ride as hard as I can, am I just over forked/biked, what can I do to use that last inch (careful) of fork travel?! 😉
I stoped buying expensives cassettes for simple xt. Twice for one and save money
A lighter bike is definitely easier to manage and maneuver. I’d much rather be a fat guy on a lighter bike vs. a fat guy on a heavy bike. A heavier bike puts more strain and burden on your body.
When i was lighter a could jump up on benches and stuff, my bike was and 2015 evo, now i got the new one. But im soon a little lighter again...
went on a diet lost 20kg my ebike flys now so much more responsive and exercise is so much easier. my issue is i run coil shocks and they are 20kgs out now haha but i feel great
Congratulations! Will you be changing the coil or does it feel nice and poppy?
i will stick with it for now as the old coil fork 2008 rockshox lyric UTURN is impossible to find parts for which is a shame as its in such good condition @@gmbntech
It's good to hear that they are still getting shredded 🤘
Light saddles are not that stupid you can really feel it when you move the bike around, actually I try to get everything as light as possible especially unsuspended weight and everything above the axles...
Lighter bike. I dont even like the storage lockers on the new bikes😅
Do you prefer carrying your tools and spares in a bag?
#ASKGMBNTECH
hi i am wondering what is happening with nukeproof bikes as i thought they are going bankrupt but are still producing bikes
#AskGMBNTech I have a 2023 Fuid FS A2. It has 140mm front fork and 130mm rear shock. Will i gain anything with going 150mm on a front fork? If i go up on the front fork do I need to increase the mm on the rear shock? Thanks
It’s will make the front a little more slack. That may cause an understeer effect possible because the tire contact patch is further “ahead”. It would also raise the BB a tiny bit. Long story short, it’s a compromise. A very very small compromise