Thank you for a very good review. I’m an old guy and thinking about buying my first saw. I don’t which direction to go but I’m researching everything at this point. Thank you very much for all you have done.
Thank you Hawkenman 😊 I truly appreciate your feedback and support. Your comment really came at critical time as I was becoming discouraged 😞 in making videos. Your thoughtful comment is the encouragement I needed. Thank you 😊
Thanks for making and sharing this video. I started assembling my R4520 today, got it to upright position and casters move an lock pretty good so far. I’ll definitely watch this video of yours again when I get to set up the rails, fence, blade and all in a few days. I’m beginning my journey as a woodworker and your videos are helping me a lot with my first table saw purchase
That is great to hear. I know you'll enjoy your woodworking journey. Starting with the Ridgid R4520 is a pretty good start. I started with an old Beaver table saw. I had to crank the pulley by hand to get it going because the capacitor was shot and the motor was too small, no riving knife and there was no way to adjust the fence. I look forward to hearing about your adventure ;) Oh and of course I had to walk 10 miles uphill through 4 feet of snow to get to the workshop too. lol
I found your video after having the blade raising/lowering problem. It got so bad, and I cranked too much, that I cracked the trunnion. I am replacing all the broken parts, but I am glad to learn about the PALS. I will be adding them in as I reassemble the saw after my parts arrive. I have also downloaded the 3D printed plans for the fence, even though I don't need them yet. Thanks for all the good info!
Great vids I just purchased a r4520 and I decided to order the incra fence system for it, seeing so many great reviews with that combo. Keep the vids coming.
The Incra does sound like it would really fix up a lot of the negative experiences some owners of the R4520 have described. Keeping that in mind, you can have an amazing saw with a few add ons that will still be much cheaper than a starter cabinet saw. Cheers Paul
I’m a new owner of this saw, and really like it. As far as the lifting mechanism, the book included with the saw states if you want to avoid dropping it harshly to the ground, you can put your foot on both the lifting and “drop” pedals and slowly put the saw down. I’ve not dropped mine hard yet!
Hi Mike, thanks for pointing that out. I forgot to mention that. I have only moved mine a couple of times and didn't take the time to really appreciate the method. Using your suggested method would likely avoid the problems reported of breaking the leg pads and help keep the saw alignment in place. Cheers Paul
This was my first "big tool" purchase. The first one I came home with from Home Depot had clerly been dropped off of a high shelf. The whole frame was bent. Took it back and got an exchange and it didn't look like it had been dropped, but I have had some issues with it. During assembly, I was unable to get the blade to align with a screwdriver. I wound up having to loosen the two bolts at the front of the saw as well, and even then it was almost impossible to get it to be perfectly aligned with the table. Then I found it almost impossible to get the blade to either 90 or 45 degrees. It would get close and then it would be extremely difficult to crank any further. While messing with this, I then ran into the issue of the belt coming loose, which I think happened from over-raising the blade. I was able to get the belt tension issue resolved by over-lowering it, and then made adjustments to the height adjustment screw to prevent that from happening again. But it's still pretty tough to get it to perfect 90 or perfect 45. Finally, I have not been able to use the riving blades or cover because I cannot for the life of me get the splitter to align with the blade. I'm considering seeing if I am still within the return window at this point. As much as I like it otherwise, it is a bit of a lemon.
That is really unfortunate. The price is right and the nice thing about the Ridgid is the lifetime warranty but if it keeps breaking down, then you have no saw for months at a time in order for them to fix it then it really isn't worth having a warranty. Maybe I'm one of the lucky ones as I haven't had any major problems with it. Still using it daily, mostly cutting pine boards. Hope you find a saw that meets your needs.
I did this alignment to my saw. Forget the screw driver method to keep tension. on the casing while aligning up the blade, this will not work. Instead use a 24" wood clamp, clamp one end to the part you want to move and the other end to the out side housing. Once aligned tighten bolts.
I hear ya! I followed the recommended directions for alignment from the manual. The wood clamp is a great idea. I'm looking at installing Pals so that it will be a much easier process. I really don't know why they don't just install these tables with PALs. The issue was there with the previous model and many other brands have the same issue. Strange!? Cheers Paul
I had the R4520 and after 3 weeks of use, I had the issue with the blade height adjustment binding and breaking straight through the plate. It barely had any resistance when binding, but broke straight through and then was wedged. Adjusting it any further was instead changing belt tension. Luckily, with the "satisfaction guaranteed" warranty, I simply took it back to Home Depot. I didn't want to wait for a replacement or anything, since on Facebook some people reported waiting 2+ months, and no other stores in my area had an R4520. I got something else instead.
That is unfortunate. At least they follow through with their "Satisfaction guaranteed" policy but I think we all would prefer a table saw that doesn't break after a few weeks.
I picked mine up at the beginning of August and and today the blade height adjustment issue raised its ugly head. This is a huge pain as i am in the midst of a cutting board order. Time to dust off the Rockwell/Beaver 9". Almost 40 years old and can still raise and lower the blade, lol.
Here are the issues I had/have with my 4512. Blade not parallel to miter slots, Miter slots not parallel to one another, Miter slots not straight, Miter guide bines, the four nuts that you use to tighten and realign miter fence not heat treated, they as soft as butter. Table not flat. Other than that its a great saw
Hahaha, yes it cuts wood. Still way better than other budget table saws I've used. One day, when I can afford a real cabinet saw I'm sure I'll curse about why I waited so long.
The humming sound tells us that there is power getting to the motor. Now we would need to figure out if it is enough to power or is something keeping it from turning. I would suggest, if not already done is to unplug it, and see if you can turn the blade by hand to ensure nothing is obstructing it. If free to turn by hand then unplug again and let it sit for about a minute, while holding the stop switch down, then try again. I've heard of the magnetic switch or electronic brake sometimes needing a reset. If that doesn't work, remove the blade (remember to always unplug while servicing) and see if the shaft turns when the blade is off. If not open the back and check to make sure the belt is in good condition and tight. If it is loose, I have a video that shows you how to tighten it. If the belt is tight and the shaft still doesn't turn without the blade on but it's making a humming sound, it may be the capacitor. A call to Home Depot support would be suggested. Hope that helps.
The R4520 I bought 6 years ago had an issue with the top casting, it had a 1/32 dip in the center of the right side of the throat plate and if I was putting a dado on the end of a board or somewhere in the middle that would throw it off by 1/16 in some situations by doubling the error.
Now I use a sled when doing dado cross cuts. I've looked at the ones in the store, they still have the issue on the latest display model which is a newer version.
That is unfortunate. The saw, with its price range is working well for us for the type of furniture and projects we make. Eventually we would like to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Until the we are willing to deal with some imperfections.
Ive had mine about a month, my pet peeve so far is the throat plate is fairly sloppy and the adjustment screws don't stay in place. I will get it nice and flat and after 10 minutes of cutting the plate is wobbling around and my pieces catch at the back. Other than that (and the sloppy miter gauge) it has been good.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Personally I haven't experienced that but wonder if you would be able to add a piece of tape to your insert so it fills the space between your throat plate and table top insert area to give a snug fit? It may prevent it from vibration that loosens your adjustment screws. Cheers Paul
Hello, Thanks for sharing. I am looking at this Home Depot saw at the moment. Are you still happy with yours? I have read about some of these issues in other forums and I was particularly happy to see an explanation as well as possible work arounds.
Yes, we're still happy with it. It's holding up well for the price. We haven't had the same issues as others have reported. We cut mostly pine and build furnitire every day.
i just got it all table saws will need maintenance and good adjustments if you want consistent 90 degree cuts. for the price I don't think you can get a better new saw I don't find any of the annoying stuff overly problematic
Ridgid is not in the business of solely upgrading their products. What they will do is make slight adjustments to their products, as they're taking away another feature or diminishing the quality of said product in some form or fashion. Their hope is that consumers are stupid.
Haha...I guess we are but then there are not many choices in this category of table saws. We've had ours for 2 years now and so far no major issues other than the ones we created by not having it connected to the proper power outlet.
It sounds like you may need to loosen the top pin/bolt (near the top of the table) that is attached to the lowering/elevating mechanism on the black "Y" shaped arm that rotates when lowering/elevating (left side of the trunnion opposite side of the motor). There have been a number of people having a similar issue. The other problem encountered is that the black "C" plate (riving knife track) is bent or damaged. Many owners contacted Ridgid to get a new one that actually comes from the R4512, it's thicker and has a lip that you'll have to grind off. Hope that helps
I just purchased one of these (4520). So far the only issue is that I turn it on, the motor runs fine, but the blade does not turn. Wondering if it is as simple as the belt is disconnected? Never owned a saw like this before so I'm a little baffled. Thanks.
That is the first time I've heard that issue reported on a new saw. If you can hear the motor run but no movement then it is possible the belt is off or broken. One thing I would check first is ensure the blade was installed properly. Page 21 of the owner's manual-->images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/ab/ab7d7a08-a368-451a-9ac3-b93736ce8ee3.pdf Otherwise, I would think it is the belt. Changing or removing the belt instructions on page 55. Before doing any checking inside I would recommend power off, plugged out and then taking the blade off. Check see if the belt is in place, check shaft from the motor is actually turning when the switch is turned on or is the motor just making a sound with no movement? If it is anything else than the blade not installed properly it would be worth calling the Ridgid support ==> www.ridgid.com/us/en/service-and-support Hope it's an easy fix.
@@DustyWorkbench So this happens not to be a belt-driven unit, but one where the arbor is directly connected to the motor; at least it isn't a 'belt-drive' machine in the sense that I would think of one - where the arbor and gears for that arbor are controlled by a belt that interconnects to a motor with a belted pulley. The motor does, in fact, turn (at least I can see the impeller/air movement component turning) but the shaft does not move. Anyway, I returned it (After getting someone to help me lug it out of the shop and down to the ground floor and out to the truck, and an hour's drive) and showed it to the support people at the store. They got me a replacement unit, but wouldn't let me try it to make sure it worked - so, back in the truck, an hour's drive, lug it from the garages to the shop and up the long staircase it went. This time, I tested the motor immediately before assembly, and again once I had installed and balanced a blade. It worked fine. My guess is definitely a faulty unit.
I can feel your pain, the table isn't the lightest tool in the shop. I'm wondering if they are all built the same. My saw does have a belt, albeit very short. I never had to dig to that point as yet but the manuals for the R4512 and R4520 do show you how to remove and change the belt and they cost about $50-$60 CA on Amazon. R4520 manual page 55 -> images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/ab/ab7d7a08-a368-451a-9ac3-b93736ce8ee3.pdf I hope you have better success with your new one. I bought mine back in May and use it daily without any problems so far, other than the alignment quirks.
Я ослабил четыре болта, два спереди и два сзади. два спереди я ослабляю только немного, затем ослабляю два рядом с панелью достаточно свободно, чтобы она не мешала ей двигаться. Вы можете просмотреть это видео о том, как настроить. ua-cam.com/video/Ue6wuNo2z74/v-deo.html
Thank you for an excellent video on reported issues with the R4520 table saw. I am looking at purchasing one but am particularly concerned about the widely reported problems with the riving knife bracket binding. What do you think about slipping a narrow steel spacer over the part of the bolt that moves up and down in the slot? Kinda like a bearing. -Thom in WA
Thanks, I looked at that option but would mean changing to a smaller bolt as the current bolt is already pretty snug in that groove but think it would be worth the try. I was wondering if having a longer bolt with a rod end, then place a bolt through the rod end with bearing wheels on each side of the slot so it can stay tight against the trunion but still allow for free wheeling.
@@DustyWorkbench Hmm.... I see what you mean. Seems like there must be a way to fix this design flaw. I don't do Facebook, but assuming you check in on the R4520 folks there once in a while, maybe you could report it on your page if someone there comes up with that looks promising. I am probably going to venture out to Home Depot and put my money down. The Poulsbo, WA store has an R4520 in stock. Every table saw that I can afford is on back order, everywhere. I guess a lot of folks decided to upgrade their old Craftsman 113's at the same time. -Thom in WA
The bolts on the table are M10 (10 mm or 25/64). What some people have done is buy the PALS from Amazon or Peachtreewoodworker supply and drill the 8mm holes bigger for the 10mm bolts. You can find some awesome people making them properly for the R4512 and R4520 at a reasonable price. --> Facebook Group facebook.com/groups/Ridgid.R4512 and search R4520 Pals
I say don't do it! First it will likely not fit. You'll have to remove the riving knife and probably need to grind some metal away somewhere. Second the motor and assembly will likely not be able top manage the size, weight , and speed of a larger blade.
@@DustyWorkbench Thank you sir! I've been trying to find an answer for this for some time. I really appreciate the response. Is the preferred (safe & accurate) method for ripping this size material to take multiple passes? I'm thinking that's the best method since the blade height of a 10" won't make it in a single pass and taking the max height cut just 'feels' wrong - I've tried it and even at the slowest pace, the blade feels as though it's being labored. Maybe I could combine multiple passes with a ripping blade (I'm currently using 80T) and cut to oversized dims and then finish cut as a 2nd operation(?)
@@verdedenim662 The ideal tool would be a bandsaw but if you don't have one for that size, like me is to use your table saw then there are a couple of things to consider. First, make sure your blade is aligned. You will get burn marks and your wood may get jammed between the fence and blade. Second, if you are ripping wood, cutting along the length/ with the grain then a dedicated ripping blade is the way to go. A ripping blade has fewer teeth. A crosscut finishing blade will have more teeth like your 80. A ripping blade will have about 25 teeth. A combination blade that can manage both ripping and crosscut has about 50, with some alternate gaps at times as well but really can only manage both of those tasks for thinner, more common wood thicknesses like 1" to 1 1/2" boards. Then when you have your ripping blade and aligned you'll want to start slow until you get comfortable to see how easily the blade can cut that wood. You may want to start with a 1/2" deep cut and increase the depth of cut to get through over half the board, then flip the board and cut through from the other side. Hope that helps
Yes I agree. Definitely the newer saws have more plastic and aluminum. Only time will tell how long they will last. Close to 1 year in and so far so good in my case. I've heard others having their R4512 for several years. So even though they may not seem in the same league, if it is lighter, easier to move around and still able to get the job done then to me that is all that really matters.
You shouldn't think that poor performance and disappointing results are acceptable because you paid less. Any saw at any price should be able to make accurate, square cuts. If not, it is defective and junk worth nothing.
![R4520 / R4512 Outfeed Table That Folds Away [Made from Scraps found in the Shop]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z30oSfZ808M/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for a very good review. I’m an old guy and thinking about buying my first saw. I don’t which direction to go but I’m researching everything at this point. Thank you very much for all you have done.
Thank you Hawkenman 😊 I truly appreciate your feedback and support. Your comment really came at critical time as I was becoming discouraged 😞 in making videos. Your thoughtful comment is the encouragement I needed. Thank you 😊
Thanks for making and sharing this video. I started assembling my R4520 today, got it to upright position and casters move an lock pretty good so far. I’ll definitely watch this video of yours again when I get to set up the rails, fence, blade and all in a few days. I’m beginning my journey as a woodworker and your videos are helping me a lot with my first table saw purchase
That is great to hear. I know you'll enjoy your woodworking journey. Starting with the Ridgid R4520 is a pretty good start. I started with an old Beaver table saw. I had to crank the pulley by hand to get it going because the capacitor was shot and the motor was too small, no riving knife and there was no way to adjust the fence. I look forward to hearing about your adventure ;) Oh and of course I had to walk 10 miles uphill through 4 feet of snow to get to the workshop too. lol
I found your video after having the blade raising/lowering problem. It got so bad, and I cranked too much, that I cracked the trunnion. I am replacing all the broken parts, but I am glad to learn about the PALS. I will be adding them in as I reassemble the saw after my parts arrive. I have also downloaded the 3D printed plans for the fence, even though I don't need them yet. Thanks for all the good info!
Glad it helped!
Great vids I just purchased a r4520 and I decided to order the incra fence system for it, seeing so many great reviews with that combo.
Keep the vids coming.
The Incra does sound like it would really fix up a lot of the negative experiences some owners of the R4520 have described.
Keeping that in mind, you can have an amazing saw with a few add ons that will still be much cheaper than a starter cabinet saw. Cheers
Paul
I’m a new owner of this saw, and really like it. As far as the lifting mechanism, the book included with the saw states if you want to avoid dropping it harshly to the ground, you can put your foot on both the lifting and “drop” pedals and slowly put the saw down. I’ve not dropped mine hard yet!
Hi Mike, thanks for pointing that out. I forgot to mention that. I have only moved mine a couple of times and didn't take the time to really appreciate the method. Using your suggested method would likely avoid the problems reported of breaking the leg pads and help keep the saw alignment in place. Cheers Paul
yeh I read that too my best method in having your toes on the small pedal and your heel on the big one it helps alot
This was my first "big tool" purchase. The first one I came home with from Home Depot had clerly been dropped off of a high shelf. The whole frame was bent. Took it back and got an exchange and it didn't look like it had been dropped, but I have had some issues with it. During assembly, I was unable to get the blade to align with a screwdriver. I wound up having to loosen the two bolts at the front of the saw as well, and even then it was almost impossible to get it to be perfectly aligned with the table. Then I found it almost impossible to get the blade to either 90 or 45 degrees. It would get close and then it would be extremely difficult to crank any further. While messing with this, I then ran into the issue of the belt coming loose, which I think happened from over-raising the blade. I was able to get the belt tension issue resolved by over-lowering it, and then made adjustments to the height adjustment screw to prevent that from happening again. But it's still pretty tough to get it to perfect 90 or perfect 45. Finally, I have not been able to use the riving blades or cover because I cannot for the life of me get the splitter to align with the blade. I'm considering seeing if I am still within the return window at this point. As much as I like it otherwise, it is a bit of a lemon.
That is really unfortunate. The price is right and the nice thing about the Ridgid is the lifetime warranty but if it keeps breaking down, then you have no saw for months at a time in order for them to fix it then it really isn't worth having a warranty. Maybe I'm one of the lucky ones as I haven't had any major problems with it. Still using it daily, mostly cutting pine boards. Hope you find a saw that meets your needs.
I did this alignment to my saw. Forget the screw driver method to keep tension. on the casing while aligning up the blade, this will not work. Instead use a 24" wood clamp, clamp one end to the part you want to move and the other end to the out side housing. Once aligned tighten bolts.
I hear ya! I followed the recommended directions for alignment from the manual. The wood clamp is a great idea. I'm looking at installing Pals so that it will be a much easier process. I really don't know why they don't just install these tables with PALs. The issue was there with the previous model and many other brands have the same issue. Strange!?
Cheers
Paul
@@DustyWorkbench what is PAL?
@@vlsi54199 Precision Alignment and Locking System like these -> amzn.to/2NGGLP4
@@DustyWorkbench Thanks a bunch!
Picked one up for 375 on sale, I was shocked when I saw the price. Keep a look out if your shopping for one around the holidays.
Deal! Wow that is an amazing deal. I'll have keep an eye out in our area, may pick up a back saw ;)
I scored that same deal the other day too, I thought it was labeled wrong!
I had the R4520 and after 3 weeks of use, I had the issue with the blade height adjustment binding and breaking straight through the plate. It barely had any resistance when binding, but broke straight through and then was wedged. Adjusting it any further was instead changing belt tension. Luckily, with the "satisfaction guaranteed" warranty, I simply took it back to Home Depot. I didn't want to wait for a replacement or anything, since on Facebook some people reported waiting 2+ months, and no other stores in my area had an R4520. I got something else instead.
That is unfortunate. At least they follow through with their "Satisfaction guaranteed" policy but I think we all would prefer a table saw that doesn't break after a few weeks.
I picked mine up at the beginning of August and and today the blade height adjustment issue raised its ugly head. This is a huge pain as i am in the midst of a cutting board order. Time to dust off the Rockwell/Beaver 9". Almost 40 years old and can still raise and lower the blade, lol.
Here are the issues I had/have with my 4512. Blade not parallel to miter slots, Miter slots not parallel to one another, Miter slots not straight, Miter guide bines, the four nuts that you use to tighten and realign miter fence not heat treated, they as soft as butter. Table not flat.
Other than that its a great saw
Hahaha, yes it cuts wood. Still way better than other budget table saws I've used. One day, when I can afford a real cabinet saw I'm sure I'll curse about why I waited so long.
@@DustyWorkbench A Beaver also cuts wood!I dont see anyone straping a fence to them
Mine the belt kept coming lose. My bolt to make adjustments stripped the cheap cast aluminum part. So be careful
Good to know. I just did a video on how to tighten the belt as it came loose for the first time a couple of weeks ago.
Can this saw run a dado stack?
Yes, but you will need to make your own dado throat insert plate.
Awesome video man, defineteily helped me identify my raising and lower/loose belt issue
Glad it helped!
I have a r4520 and I have a major issue. Whenever I turn on the saw the blade won’t turn and it makes a humming noise.
The humming sound tells us that there is power getting to the motor. Now we would need to figure out if it is enough to power or is something keeping it from turning. I would suggest, if not already done is to unplug it, and see if you can turn the blade by hand to ensure nothing is obstructing it. If free to turn by hand then unplug again and let it sit for about a minute, while holding the stop switch down, then try again. I've heard of the magnetic switch or electronic brake sometimes needing a reset. If that doesn't work, remove the blade (remember to always unplug while servicing) and see if the shaft turns when the blade is off. If not open the back and check to make sure the belt is in good condition and tight. If it is loose, I have a video that shows you how to tighten it. If the belt is tight and the shaft still doesn't turn without the blade on but it's making a humming sound, it may be the capacitor. A call to Home Depot support would be suggested. Hope that helps.
@@DustyWorkbench thank you so much!!! I will try everything you suggested.
The R4520 I bought 6 years ago had an issue with the top casting, it had a 1/32 dip in the center of the right side of the throat plate and if I was putting a dado on the end of a board or somewhere in the middle that would throw it off by 1/16 in some situations by doubling the error.
Now I use a sled when doing dado cross cuts. I've looked at the ones in the store, they still have the issue on the latest display model which is a newer version.
From what I've seen if your concerned about having an accurate top and don't have money for an industrial saw get a Makita.
That is unfortunate. The saw, with its price range is working well for us for the type of furniture and projects we make. Eventually we would like to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Until the we are willing to deal with some imperfections.
Ive had mine about a month, my pet peeve so far is the throat plate is fairly sloppy and the adjustment screws don't stay in place. I will get it nice and flat and after 10 minutes of cutting the plate is wobbling around and my pieces catch at the back. Other than that (and the sloppy miter gauge) it has been good.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Personally I haven't experienced that but wonder if you would be able to add a piece of tape to your insert so it fills the space between your throat plate and table top insert area to give a snug fit? It may prevent it from vibration that loosens your adjustment screws. Cheers Paul
Can I suggest you take your air hose to the inside of the saw from time to time?
Absolutely. In one of my other videos for belt tightening you see me give it good cleaning first. Cheers Paul
Hello, Thanks for sharing. I am looking at this Home Depot saw at the moment. Are you still happy with yours?
I have read about some of these issues in other forums and I was particularly happy to see an explanation as well as possible work arounds.
Yes, we're still happy with it. It's holding up well for the price. We haven't had the same issues as others have reported. We cut mostly pine and build furnitire every day.
i just got it all table saws will need maintenance and good adjustments if you want consistent 90 degree cuts. for the price I don't think you can get a better new saw I don't find any of the annoying stuff overly problematic
Ridgid is not in the business of solely upgrading their products. What they will do is make slight adjustments to their products, as they're taking away another feature or diminishing the quality of said product in some form or fashion. Their hope is that consumers are stupid.
Haha...I guess we are but then there are not many choices in this category of table saws. We've had ours for 2 years now and so far no major issues other than the ones we created by not having it connected to the proper power outlet.
When my blade is at its highest the belt is completely off when it’s lowered it’s tight how do I keep the tension on my belt?
It sounds like you may need to loosen the top pin/bolt (near the top of the table) that is attached to the lowering/elevating mechanism on the black "Y" shaped arm that rotates when lowering/elevating (left side of the trunnion opposite side of the motor). There have been a number of people having a similar issue. The other problem encountered is that the black "C" plate (riving knife track) is bent or damaged. Many owners contacted Ridgid to get a new one that actually comes from the R4512, it's thicker and has a lip that you'll have to grind off. Hope that helps
Having this exact same problem. No solution yet. I'll try this
I just purchased one of these (4520). So far the only issue is that I turn it on, the motor runs fine, but the blade does not turn. Wondering if it is as simple as the belt is disconnected? Never owned a saw like this before so I'm a little baffled. Thanks.
That is the first time I've heard that issue reported on a new saw. If you can hear the motor run but no movement then it is possible the belt is off or broken. One thing I would check first is ensure the blade was installed properly. Page 21 of the owner's manual-->images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/ab/ab7d7a08-a368-451a-9ac3-b93736ce8ee3.pdf Otherwise, I would think it is the belt. Changing or removing the belt instructions on page 55. Before doing any checking inside I would recommend power off, plugged out and then taking the blade off. Check see if the belt is in place, check shaft from the motor is actually turning when the switch is turned on or is the motor just making a sound with no movement? If it is anything else than the blade not installed properly it would be worth calling the Ridgid support ==> www.ridgid.com/us/en/service-and-support Hope it's an easy fix.
@@DustyWorkbench So this happens not to be a belt-driven unit, but one where the arbor is directly connected to the motor; at least it isn't a 'belt-drive' machine in the sense that I would think of one - where the arbor and gears for that arbor are controlled by a belt that interconnects to a motor with a belted pulley. The motor does, in fact, turn (at least I can see the impeller/air movement component turning) but the shaft does not move. Anyway, I returned it (After getting someone to help me lug it out of the shop and down to the ground floor and out to the truck, and an hour's drive) and showed it to the support people at the store. They got me a replacement unit, but wouldn't let me try it to make sure it worked - so, back in the truck, an hour's drive, lug it from the garages to the shop and up the long staircase it went. This time, I tested the motor immediately before assembly, and again once I had installed and balanced a blade. It worked fine. My guess is definitely a faulty unit.
I can feel your pain, the table isn't the lightest tool in the shop. I'm wondering if they are all built the same. My saw does have a belt, albeit very short. I never had to dig to that point as yet but the manuals for the R4512 and R4520 do show you how to remove and change the belt and they cost about $50-$60 CA on Amazon. R4520 manual page 55 -> images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/ab/ab7d7a08-a368-451a-9ac3-b93736ce8ee3.pdf
I hope you have better success with your new one. I bought mine back in May and use it daily without any problems so far, other than the alignment quirks.
Здравствуйте, подскажите пожалуйста,для регулировки пильного диска нужно открутить два болта или четыре?
Я ослабил четыре болта, два спереди и два сзади. два спереди я ослабляю только немного, затем ослабляю два рядом с панелью достаточно свободно, чтобы она не мешала ей двигаться. Вы можете просмотреть это видео о том, как настроить. ua-cam.com/video/Ue6wuNo2z74/v-deo.html
@@DustyWorkbench thanks
Thank you for an excellent video on reported issues with the R4520 table saw. I am looking at purchasing one but am particularly concerned about the widely reported problems with the riving knife bracket binding. What do you think about slipping a narrow steel spacer over the part of the bolt that moves up and down in the slot? Kinda like a bearing. -Thom in WA
Thanks, I looked at that option but would mean changing to a smaller bolt as the current bolt is already pretty snug in that groove but think it would be worth the try. I was wondering if having a longer bolt with a rod end, then place a bolt through the rod end with bearing wheels on each side of the slot so it can stay tight against the trunion but still allow for free wheeling.
@@DustyWorkbench Hmm.... I see what you mean. Seems like there must be a way to fix this design flaw. I don't do Facebook, but assuming you check in on the R4520 folks there once in a while, maybe you could report it on your page if someone there comes up with that looks promising. I am probably going to venture out to Home Depot and put my money down. The Poulsbo, WA store has an R4520 in stock. Every table saw that I can afford is on back order, everywhere. I guess a lot of folks decided to upgrade their old Craftsman 113's at the same time. -Thom in WA
What's the overall height of the saw from ground to top of table surface?
The top of the table is 36 3/4" from the ground.
Cool. Thank you!
Are the PALS for 3/8 or 8mm stud? They are made for both but don't seem to indicate which saws go with which set...
The bolts on the table are M10 (10 mm or 25/64). What some people have done is buy the PALS from Amazon or Peachtreewoodworker supply and drill the 8mm holes bigger for the 10mm bolts. You can find some awesome people making them properly for the R4512 and R4520 at a reasonable price. --> Facebook Group facebook.com/groups/Ridgid.R4512 and search R4520 Pals
@@DustyWorkbench An M10.5 drill bit will give a tight fit to the aluminum brackets, and thus reduce chances of slipping out of adjustment due slop.
A bit unrelated, but would it be reasonable to run 12" blade on this saw for cutting/ripping 4 x 4 material?
I say don't do it! First it will likely not fit. You'll have to remove the riving knife and probably need to grind some metal away somewhere. Second the motor and assembly will likely not be able top manage the size, weight , and speed of a larger blade.
@@DustyWorkbench Thank you sir! I've been trying to find an answer for this for some time. I really appreciate the response. Is the preferred (safe & accurate) method for ripping this size material to take multiple passes? I'm thinking that's the best method since the blade height of a 10" won't make it in a single pass and taking the max height cut just 'feels' wrong - I've tried it and even at the slowest pace, the blade feels as though it's being labored. Maybe I could combine multiple passes with a ripping blade (I'm currently using 80T) and cut to oversized dims and then finish cut as a 2nd operation(?)
@@verdedenim662 The ideal tool would be a bandsaw but if you don't have one for that size, like me is to use your table saw then there are a couple of things to consider. First, make sure your blade is aligned. You will get burn marks and your wood may get jammed between the fence and blade. Second, if you are ripping wood, cutting along the length/ with the grain then a dedicated ripping blade is the way to go. A ripping blade has fewer teeth. A crosscut finishing blade will have more teeth like your 80. A ripping blade will have about 25 teeth. A combination blade that can manage both ripping and crosscut has about 50, with some alternate gaps at times as well but really can only manage both of those tasks for thinner, more common wood thicknesses like 1" to 1 1/2" boards. Then when you have your ripping blade and aligned you'll want to start slow until you get comfortable to see how easily the blade can cut that wood. You may want to start with a 1/2" deep cut and increase the depth of cut to get through over half the board, then flip the board and cut through from the other side. Hope that helps
My two cents. The R4520 looks and feels like a child's toy compared to my Ridgid TS3660. Not in the same league at all
Yes I agree. Definitely the newer saws have more plastic and aluminum. Only time will tell how long they will last. Close to 1 year in and so far so good in my case. I've heard others having their R4512 for several years. So even though they may not seem in the same league, if it is lighter, easier to move around and still able to get the job done then to me that is all that really matters.
You shouldn't think that poor performance and disappointing results are acceptable because you paid less. Any saw at any price should be able to make accurate, square cuts. If not, it is defective and junk worth nothing.
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