Great video my friend. First time with my new 2010 toyota and besides having to go get a longer socket wrench for more leverage it worked out great. Your video was a great step by step guide on how to change the oil. God Bless.
I pre-fill my new filter with several ounces of oil - it’s so easy to do. People argue all day long that’s not necessary but I figure if you can do it why not do it? My oil light doesn’t come on even for a second when I start my 2016 Highlander. Great video thanks for the time posting it
Every time I change our filter on our 2012 Highlander SE AWD v6 the oil filter drain plug cap is stuck on like nobody's business and never comes off I simply use the 3/8 ratchet and it unscrews the entire filter I don't even need filter wrench. I see replacement units for everything is only around $40 or so but never replaced it I'm fine as long as I have new filter and filter o ring changed. The drain plug and its ring is of no concern to me, although may be a bit cleaner if I could use one of the handy drain plugs and a tube to initially drain the filter. After doing a few I just know where to place my drain pan. My oil filter housing was gone too I also have not replaced mine it's easier to not have it on. Good video mate, cheers!
Thanks - this was very helpful. Question: Today I overfilled (same model and 3.5 engine as yours with the towing package, about 145,000 miles and in great shape) by about 3 or 4 ounces -- maybe 6.6qt instead of the 6.4. Should I get under there and try to drain it a bit, or would you let it go? I will not hold you to the answer. Just asking for basic opinion. Thanks again!
What is the reason Toyota went with such a hokey set up as far as the oil filter is concerned, it seems unnecessarily complicated, especially when I’ve been using standard oil filters for the last 55 years of my life
Yeah, that's for the smaller cap on the filter housing. Basically, you could open that first and insert the plastic tube that came with the filter to drain the oil inside first. I tried once, but it was just not worth it.
Unless I missed something, did you drain the oil while the car was on ramps on the front? I understand standard practice is to drain only while level, otherwise a fair bit of sooty oil will remain. Did you level it out to drain off camera, or leave it at an angle?
A lubrication engineer could talk for hours on this subject, but the manual says use: "Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity. Oil grade: ILSAC multigrade engine oil Recommended viscosity: SAE 5W-20 or 0W-20. Most oils, conventional and synthetic meet the ILSAC standard and have the "gear"/API "Starburst"" symbol on them. In short you can use conventional oil and change every 5k miles, or you can use synthetic with a good filter and change every 10-15k miles. I use 5W-30 Synthetic in all my cars, except my really old car because synthetic seems to sneak past the seals and leak more on old cars. I don't know why, but I pay the extra couple bucks for the "High Mileage" 5 quart version. The 0W-20 viscosity stuff is really just an attempt by the manufacturers to squeeze an extra 1/4 MPG out of their fleet. In my opinion the 5W-30 will provide better protection especially in hot weather.
@@jimdandy6472 - And to add oil to the fire of 30 weight versus 20 weight oil, every other place on the entire globe outside the United States that this engine is used recommends 30 weight. So your instincts I think are correct, and that's what I put in our Highlander.
@@thetechlibrarian - it's not just the climate. It's also I think (as was posted earlier) it's about American average fleet mileage regulations. Again, America is absolutely the only place on the planet where 20 weight is recommended for the Highlanders. Everywhere else, doesn't matter whether it's Denmark or South Africa, 30 weight is recommended for that engine. I don't think it's a mechanical requirement. I think it's an EPA requirement.
Do you know why the entire oil filter cap comes off when you try to remove the drainplug from the filter cap? Answer... Most likely the drainplug was used to put the whole thing on in one step. At any rate the torque specs were not followed. First tighten the oil filter cap to 18 ft.lbs. (25 N•m) using only the oil filter cap wrench and NOT a ⅜ inch extension without the oil filter cap wrench attached. Then tighten the oil filter drainplug with a ⅜ inch extension to only 9 ft.lbs. and you won't have this problem.
Sure because someone was in a hurry,my problem now is trying to undo the problem holding the oil filter with a pair of channel locks while using the 3/8 ratchet ain't working.
@@tomskix I used a pipe wrench to hold the oil filter cap. Another way is to use the oil filter cap wrench and put the oil filter cap on at 30 ft.lbs. then try removing the drainbolt. It that doesn't work try applying 35 ft.lbs. to the oil filter cap. The goal is to get the oil filter cap on tighter than the drainbolt (without breaking anything).
@@njsongwriter - Or... You could just ignore it. It's a cute convenience feature that ends up being less convenient than just taking the cartridge cap off and dumping it upside down in your drain tray.
@@47f0 I agree 100%. I've had oil dripping down my arm my whole life, while changing oil filters, so in practice this "drain" feature is more trouble than it's worth.
do it yourself. i just made a big mistake and when to the toyota dealership and they put in the wrong oil 0w-20 and only put in 4.5 qt instead 6.4. yeah thanks for the video
You may find some of these Toyota filter cap wrenches at a decent price. Avoid them. They will blow apart and you will have no oil filter wrench, a car with no oil in it and your only option is going to be to just refill the car with the fresh oil without changing the filter, hoping the old oil wasn't too dirty or find another ride or just wait for the better grade of wrench to come in by Amazon. I'm one of those idiots that actually uses a beam type torque wrench rather than the click type, because I figured the flexing properties of a steel rod are going to remain the the same over time. I replace that oil filter cap at 20 foot pounds every time. And every time I take it off I have to use a 6-ft cheater bar to get it broken loose. If I were the architect of hell, there would be a special subdivision where automotive engineers are doomed to work on the garbage they design for eternity with only basic home mechanic tools.
Great video my friend. First time with my new 2010 toyota and besides having to go get a longer socket wrench for more leverage it worked out great. Your video was a great step by step guide on how to change the oil. God Bless.
I pre-fill my new filter with several ounces of oil - it’s so easy to do. People argue all day long that’s not necessary but I figure if you can do it why not do it? My oil light doesn’t come on even for a second when I start my 2016 Highlander. Great video thanks for the time posting it
Where did the 5.8 quarts come from, owner's manual says 6.4 ..without towing packaging.. just 5 w 30 instead
Every time I change our filter on our 2012 Highlander SE AWD v6 the oil filter drain plug cap is stuck on like nobody's business and never comes off I simply use the 3/8 ratchet and it unscrews the entire filter I don't even need filter wrench. I see replacement units for everything is only around $40 or so but never replaced it I'm fine as long as I have new filter and filter o ring changed. The drain plug and its ring is of no concern to me, although may be a bit cleaner if I could use one of the handy drain plugs and a tube to initially drain the filter. After doing a few I just know where to place my drain pan. My oil filter housing was gone too I also have not replaced mine it's easier to not have it on. Good video mate, cheers!
Thanks - this was very helpful.
Question: Today I overfilled (same model and 3.5 engine as yours with the towing package, about 145,000 miles and in great shape) by about 3 or 4 ounces -- maybe 6.6qt instead of the 6.4. Should I get under there and try to drain it a bit, or would you let it go? I will not hold you to the answer. Just asking for basic opinion. Thanks again!
What is the reason Toyota went with such a hokey set up as far as the oil filter is concerned, it seems unnecessarily complicated, especially when I’ve been using standard oil filters for the last 55 years of my life
So the small o ring the new filter comes with is unnecessary?
Yeah, that's for the smaller cap on the filter housing. Basically, you could open that first and insert the plastic tube that came with the filter to drain the oil inside first. I tried once, but it was just not worth it.
Well explained. Thanks for posting.
Do we really need elevation or is it possible to do at its normal height inside the garage ? For oil change?
Unless I missed something, did you drain the oil while the car was on ramps on the front? I understand standard practice is to drain only while level, otherwise a fair bit of sooty oil will remain. Did you level it out to drain off camera, or leave it at an angle?
After viewing; I'm ready to change the oil/cartridge for much less than the dealer:)
I thought the 2010 highlander v6 only took conventional oil? Any difference using fully synthetic ?
A lubrication engineer could talk for hours on this subject, but the manual says use: "Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy
the following grade and viscosity.
Oil grade: ILSAC multigrade engine oil
Recommended viscosity: SAE 5W-20 or 0W-20.
Most oils, conventional and synthetic meet the ILSAC standard and have the "gear"/API "Starburst"" symbol on them.
In short you can use conventional oil and change every 5k miles, or you can use synthetic with a good filter and change every 10-15k miles.
I use 5W-30 Synthetic in all my cars, except my really old car because synthetic seems to sneak past the seals and leak more on old cars. I don't know why, but I pay the extra couple bucks for the "High Mileage" 5 quart version.
The 0W-20 viscosity stuff is really just an attempt by the manufacturers to squeeze an extra 1/4 MPG out of their fleet. In my opinion the 5W-30 will provide better protection especially in hot weather.
@@jimdandy6472 - And to add oil to the fire of 30 weight versus 20 weight oil, every other place on the entire globe outside the United States that this engine is used recommends 30 weight. So your instincts I think are correct, and that's what I put in our Highlander.
@@47f0 yes it’s the same way for the 2ar fe there is a range of oil for different climates and I have been debating following it vs using 0w20
@@thetechlibrarian - it's not just the climate. It's also I think (as was posted earlier) it's about American average fleet mileage regulations. Again, America is absolutely the only place on the planet where 20 weight is recommended for the Highlanders. Everywhere else, doesn't matter whether it's Denmark or South Africa, 30 weight is recommended for that engine. I don't think it's a mechanical requirement. I think it's an EPA requirement.
Do you know why the entire oil filter cap comes off when you try to remove the drainplug from the filter cap?
Answer... Most likely the drainplug was used to put the whole thing on in one step. At any rate the torque specs were not followed. First tighten the oil filter cap to 18 ft.lbs. (25 N•m) using only the oil filter cap wrench and NOT a ⅜ inch extension without the oil filter cap wrench attached. Then tighten the oil filter drainplug with a ⅜ inch extension to only 9 ft.lbs. and you won't have this problem.
Sure because someone was in a hurry,my problem now is trying to undo the problem holding the oil filter with a pair of channel locks while using the 3/8 ratchet ain't working.
@@tomskix
I used a pipe wrench to hold the oil filter cap. Another way is to use the oil filter cap wrench and put the oil filter cap on at 30 ft.lbs. then try removing the drainbolt. It that doesn't work try applying 35 ft.lbs. to the oil filter cap. The goal is to get the oil filter cap on tighter than the drainbolt (without breaking anything).
@@njsongwriter - Or... You could just ignore it. It's a cute convenience feature that ends up being less convenient than just taking the cartridge cap off and dumping it upside down in your drain tray.
@@47f0 I agree 100%. I've had oil dripping down my arm my whole life, while changing oil filters, so in practice this "drain" feature is more trouble than it's worth.
do it yourself. i just made a big mistake and when to the toyota dealership and they put in the wrong oil 0w-20 and only put in 4.5 qt instead 6.4. yeah thanks for the video
🤘🤘część Jim ,pytanie dotyczące twojego T&C Touring, co ile mil wymieniasz olej w silniku???? V6 3.8.
You may find some of these Toyota filter cap wrenches at a decent price. Avoid them. They will blow apart and you will have no oil filter wrench, a car with no oil in it and your only option is going to be to just refill the car with the fresh oil without changing the filter, hoping the old oil wasn't too dirty or find another ride or just wait for the better grade of wrench to come in by Amazon.
I'm one of those idiots that actually uses a beam type torque wrench rather than the click type, because I figured the flexing properties of a steel rod are going to remain the the same over time. I replace that oil filter cap at 20 foot pounds every time. And every time I take it off I have to use a 6-ft cheater bar to get it broken loose.
If I were the architect of hell, there would be a special subdivision where automotive engineers are doomed to work on the garbage they design for eternity with only basic home mechanic tools.
It's better not to use a pick to remove the o-rings.
See this one minute video...
m.ua-cam.com/video/a0D_vGFgLD8/v-deo.html