"If you reading this you are an absolute legend". How about "IF YOU ARE FILMING THIS AND CATCHING AWESOME BARRELS YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE LEGEND". Thank you for posting!! This film is the best I have seen on Canadian Surfing thus far. Your surfing is like artwork. The fact that you can do it that well with a 5/4 or 6/5 wetsuit is super impressive! Great wave riding, and great surf etiquette as well (noticed the head movement on the camera). A lot of fun to watch. Likely will be rewatching this over and over again!
The gratitude I feel from reading your comment is beyond words. It means so much to be able to capture and share these sessions and visions from the water in this unique corner of the world. Thank you so much! 🙏
Nonetheless we were so frothed after watching you catch that one. I went sprinting for my gear right after that haha. Can't wait to share some more pumping sessions this season! 🙏💣
Sick footage Keenan, really gives a great feel for what it's like surfing out there on a great day with all the local lads out. Love the stoke! I can tell your cardio is next level.
Much appreciated! So stoked to be able to convey the feeling, and the cardio comes naturally after a few sessions out here with all the duck dives haha.
That is wild. I use to surf northern California in the 80's and there was not much surfing there like southern California. Watching people surf Canada and Alaska is just amazing! 😅 Orca territory.
I took a really close look at that moment and I didn’t see anything. It could have just been some turbulence from my hands when I was situating myself before I started paddling?
Thank you so much Tim! The colors and textures on those stormy days make it a whole other world! My usual red board is a 5'10 squash tail and has very balanced amount on foam and rocker for every day conditions, whereas this board is a 6'6 pin tail with a little extra foam for maximum paddle power and hold in powerful conditions. It is much less maneuverable for turns but gives you the confidence and stability you need when the waves are big.
Vibram makes a special compound rubber replacement shoe sole called “MegaGrip” that provides extreme grip on wet slippery rock. I chose the one with the skull pattern as it was the smoothest overall pattern.
That's actually a great idea. Wish the wetsuit companies would take that into consideration as i've always been a big fan of a more textured boot sole for surfing out here. I guess they keep them really thin and supple for the majority of surfers that are buying them that want the bare foot feeling, but also don't have to do much walking on sharp slippery rocks.
They are definitely around up here but have never really been an issue for surfers. I guess maybe they like the deeper waters. I'd be more worried about Orcas making an appearance out here.
Gopro definitely isn't doing that wave justice! Such a heavy spot and I only surfed it when it was head high, can't imagine the power with this swell. Nice work documenting it, mad respect to you and these local chargers 🤙
Cheers! The water is cold, but not too bad (for Canada) at 10°C. Usually it's a fair bit colder but this winter has been warmer than normal. It's the wind that gets the most chilly 🥶
I thought Cape Town waters are pretty cool,arctic almost at some spots...but this place needs a little bit of snow to finish this scenario off🥶🥶Lekka waves though..😂😂
Cheers! I've been dreaming of making it down to your neck of the woods for a while! Typically we see a few snowy days in the winter but this year it has been unusually warm.
Thank you! I have a string with one end tied to the camera and the other end attached to my suit. It's a big pain in the butt when the string gets in the way but better than losing it. I used the floaty case before but not anymore. Risking it for the biscuit haha.
Maybe next time. The deeper you go the shallower it is and some of the barrels the pros were getting were almost dry. A couple of pretty gnarly injuries happened this day.
Is t the area notorious for white sharks? I’ve been cage diving in SF, Cal and I’m pretty sure when I went to Vancouver there were just as many adverts to go cage diving with whites?
There is great whites around in this part of the Pacific, but so far they haven't really been an issue for surfers. I've never heard of shark cage diving being a thing up here, but maybe they just like sticking to the deeper waters or they don't like their meals being wrapped up in this much neoprene.
Those slippery rocks are no joke for anyone who doesn't know they're like a combination between ice slippery and slime. Its a pain in the ass you're trying to grip with your every muscle in your foot and stubbing your toes every step, worrying about not seriously slamming your board when you fall etc just not fun. 😅
Mate, nice Right!!! That’s a great looking wave. Heads up though - As a Maori Surfer - don’t go to New Zealand anytime with that Board. Having a Warrior Chiefs “Ta Moko” on it ( His facial Tattoo’s ), and this is real depiction; some Maori would most definitely take serious offense about a “Pakeha” ( Non-Maori ) having that emblazoned on a Board for all to see. Just a heads up Bro. I’d certainly confront you over it - so yeah, just a heads Bro. Stay wet!!!
Thank you so much bro! I genuinely appreciate your comment and the insight as I had no idea the significance of that symbol or the meaning behind it. It is a beautiful symbol and I know the shaper, Scott Rowley is from NZ but I can absolutely understand if it could be a cause of confrontation if someone like myself was over there with it on my board. I'm curious to know what your opinion is about me riding that board here in Canada and if it makes a difference if the symbol is culturally significant to the person who made the board?
@@tofinosurfphotographyKia Ora Bro. It’s a facial “take” of a Maori Chief. Scott, unless he’s Maori, should have known better to add this without first consulting an Elder.. It’s the same as having a board with “I’m Da Hui” and wearing black shorts at Pipe, and your skin colour is…..ah…..”on the lighter side” shall we say. The odds of getting out of the line-ip without a fat lip and a board in two pieces is…….so so. If Scott is a Pakeha, he should have known better. If he is Maori - yeah, it’s fine to shape a board and bang that on it, but giving it to someone else - who isn’t Maori, ahhhhhh yeah…..that’s not a good idea. My advice is….If…..and I mean If, someone ever says something, your reply is “I was gifted this by a Kiwi Surfer, and have looked after this since then. I am honoured to have been gifted this….” Surf it, have fun but just be aware bro. I was in a Mall in SoCal ( use to live there ) and this Shop was selling the exact same “Ta Moko” as transfers. Within a Week, they had been removed - so yeah,Kiwi’s are everywhere. I use to live in Castlegar BC……hahahaha….before moving to Ed’ over in AB, and then to Wainwright near the Sask Border - so yeah, we Kiwis get around Bro - hahahahahahaha.
While I enjoyed your video here and thanks for posting it, the words "massive" and "historic" in your title seem a bit much, given the number of times I've seen surf this big or better on Southern Vancouver Island. When did 8' become "massive"? Take care.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it and I can appreciate your comment. I feel like in this case it might be a matter of perspective. With every video, photo and article about surfing that claims "biggest, most perfect, historic" etc there is always going to be debate, and there will always be folks with different perspectives, whether the waves are 8 feet or 80 feet. Maybe you have seen bigger and better days in your lifetime and if you have I genuine respect for you for putting in the time and hard work, and being in the right time and place. My videos and photos are from my perspective and I have rarely experienced a day quite like this in Canada.
Ah well, thank you for taking the time to click on this video and leave a comment anyways. There seems to be a few other folks out there that enjoy it, so I will keep on making them until I can afford to pay a filmer.
Bro, pro tip (had no idea, learn with an older surfer) every time you carry your board on the rocks flip it the other way (fins pointing 'outside') because when you fall you don't damage the 2, both board and fins.
Tofino should have its own scale for how good the waves are based on how many Bruhwilers are out.
Looks like south Island to me.
lmao def not.@@behonestwithyourself3718
Bwahahah
HAH! Best comment
This comment deserves a medal.
"If you reading this you are an absolute legend". How about "IF YOU ARE FILMING THIS AND CATCHING AWESOME BARRELS YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE LEGEND". Thank you for posting!! This film is the best I have seen on Canadian Surfing thus far. Your surfing is like artwork. The fact that you can do it that well with a 5/4 or 6/5 wetsuit is super impressive! Great wave riding, and great surf etiquette as well (noticed the head movement on the camera). A lot of fun to watch. Likely will be rewatching this over and over again!
The gratitude I feel from reading your comment is beyond words. It means so much to be able to capture and share these sessions and visions from the water in this unique corner of the world. Thank you so much! 🙏
super great to have the raw footage as someone who's learning. great resource to see how you are reacting to different waves, etc. much appreciated!
So stoked to hear that it's been helpful, it means a lot to be able to share the knowledge and stoke. 🙏
Cold Kirra!
Yew! That was a great day! First shot is me pulling in and not making a very makable section. I have a gift.
Nonetheless we were so frothed after watching you catch that one. I went sprinting for my gear right after that haha. Can't wait to share some more pumping sessions this season! 🙏💣
I love being born and raised here, it truly is the most beautiful place on earth.❤
This is so unlike I’ve ever seen it there. This day looks incredible!! ❤
So happy for you guys. Feeling the stoke! I like the long edit on great days.
Thank you so much! I truly appreciate the feedback! 🙏
Awesome, can't wait to come back and shred.
AWESOME session
Thank you kindly! 🙏
West coast surf culture rules. Good waves, good surfing, good vibes. 🙌
I'm in Nicaragua and I just started shivering watching that. And just before you went down on the rocks I thought damn that is so slippery lol.
Sick footage Keenan, really gives a great feel for what it's like surfing out there on a great day with all the local lads out. Love the stoke! I can tell your cardio is next level.
Much appreciated! So stoked to be able to convey the feeling, and the cardio comes naturally after a few sessions out here with all the duck dives haha.
Great video, thanks for posting
Wow what a beautiful place in a glorious day!
Holy! What an amazing session
Love all the hootin and hollering! Love to see it. Better than all the grumps on the water these days. Spread the stoke 🔥
Thanks so much! I truly appreciate it! 💙
you guys are narly ! ripping !
Epic sesh!
Man your editing is so good. When you turned and went for that first wave, it almost felt like I was out there
Thank you so much! So stoked you enjoyed it! ♥️
Just awesome!
Thank you!
Froth Levels: MAXED OUT.
Sick clips man, you guys surf in some insanely frigid conditions.
Much appreciated! Thanks so much for sharing the Stoke! 🙏
Man... those lights...! Would love to take some shots there. Insane!
Nice surfing beautiful spot.
Wow looks cold, but those are perfect rights
getting goosebumps just from watching it 😮🔥
I surfed today in central Florida, water was 64 F. I was cold and Yes I was born here 😂
Me too. Gonna finish watching it from the hot tub...
looks epic water looks so clean
Crowd is insane
That looks cold, but great!
Yewww! Great job legend
Thank you so much Xavi! You are such a big inspiration! 🙏💪
Last wave ❤
You can feel the stoke 😊 in this vid.
Dude are you kidding me right now, that was sick!
Thank you so much! 💙🌊
A green paradise. We're the waves 8ft?
It's a hard thing to put a number on. It was big enough to get stand up barreled but each wave this day was very different.
@tofinosurfphotography very glassy .it looks like the most beutiful place in the world.
core lords!
Awesome mate 🤘🇦🇺. Thought you'd miss the day getting over the rocks man.😂
Looks fun.
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Empty lineup for such a good swell! Most everyone scratchin for the tails from those lines!
That is wild. I use to surf northern California in the 80's and there was not much surfing there like southern California. Watching people surf Canada and Alaska is just amazing! 😅 Orca territory.
Wow, thanks for sharing that. It must have been a whole different world back then. It's always inspiring to hear the stories.
So much stoke in this video. Well done. 👍
Thanks a ton!
awesome....long day out there
tooooobs, hell yeah
You are so fun to watch man, makes those surfing conditions look like a summer day at cloudbreak
Thank you! That really means a lot! ❤
Monster energyyyy. BEAUTY footage, I can feel the cold on my skin just watching thisss. Do you film with a GoPro on the water?
Thank you! I use a variety of different camera setups to film my videos but yes I use a gopro. 😊
Good work lads
Much appreciated! 🙏🌊
So sick! Yewwww
First time watching your vids you blokes are hard core charger's love it from Australia mate 👍 😮
Thank you bro! Can't wait to make it down there some day soon! 🙏🤞
7:13 what kind of fish was l
That, left corner of screen!!!???
I took a really close look at that moment and I didn’t see anything. It could have just been some turbulence from my hands when I was situating myself before I started paddling?
Intense.
NICE! The colour of the water, even on a grey day is amazing! How is this board different to your red one?
Thank you so much Tim! The colors and textures on those stormy days make it a whole other world! My usual red board is a 5'10 squash tail and has very balanced amount on foam and rocker for every day conditions, whereas this board is a 6'6 pin tail with a little extra foam for maximum paddle power and hold in powerful conditions. It is much less maneuverable for turns but gives you the confidence and stability you need when the waves are big.
WOW
Niiiiiiice.
Daaaaamn
Pumping.
Vibram makes a special compound rubber replacement shoe sole called “MegaGrip” that provides extreme grip on wet slippery rock. I chose the one with the skull pattern as it was the smoothest overall pattern.
That's actually a great idea. Wish the wetsuit companies would take that into consideration as i've always been a big fan of a more textured boot sole for surfing out here. I guess they keep them really thin and supple for the majority of surfers that are buying them that want the bare foot feeling, but also don't have to do much walking on sharp slippery rocks.
@@tofinosurfphotography The one I bought was thin and minimal, maybe 3-4mm with a flat tread pattern
Nice
Any Great whites up there? Swell video keep them coming didn`t know there was a surf crew up there keep having fun
They are definitely around up here but have never really been an issue for surfers. I guess maybe they like the deeper waters. I'd be more worried about Orcas making an appearance out here.
Beautiful area , no grizzly's on the beach either I hope @@tofinosurfphotography
Cheers! It definitely is a special little corner of the world! There's no grizzlies, just black bears, wolves and cougars.
Gopro definitely isn't doing that wave justice! Such a heavy spot and I only surfed it when it was head high, can't imagine the power with this swell. Nice work documenting it, mad respect to you and these local chargers 🤙
Much appreciated! If you know how much the fish eye effect shrinks the size of the waves you know!
I was out there, big set came in an and group got caught inside. One girl came up with 1/2 a board. It snapped just on the duck dive!
Looks pretty lite to me
wow
Much resppect to my pale Northern brothers from SoCal!!
Haha thank you! 🙏☃️
I am very curious about the Water temperature.
It's around 10°C right now. Usually it's a fair bit colder this time of year, but so far it's been quite a warm winter for most of the west coast.
Awesome! Can I ask what camera set up you are using here? I take it it's not a bite mount as you are speaking?
do u have a headstrap or mouth mount for your gorpo? Amazing footy!
i know its cold...well maybe i have no idea how cold, but damn that looks so fun...
Cheers! The water is cold, but not too bad (for Canada) at 10°C. Usually it's a fair bit colder but this winter has been warmer than normal. It's the wind that gets the most chilly 🥶
I thought Cape Town waters are pretty cool,arctic almost at some spots...but this place needs a little bit of snow to finish this scenario off🥶🥶Lekka waves though..😂😂
Cheers! I've been dreaming of making it down to your neck of the woods for a while! Typically we see a few snowy days in the winter but this year it has been unusually warm.
🌊 Psych-meter is way Up 🤙🏼Get it
I think when the Gods in Valhalla decide to go surfing, this is what it looks like!
Good old BC, forty shades of grey
0:13 our PM , Justin Trudeau going for it.
sepp is king
Must be southern hemisphere naivety but I didn't think there was surf in Canada. Looks a bit cold for me.
I don't blame you! It's a pretty obscure and small surf scene up here, but it's growing!
Great filming and surfing!! Nice barrel at 14 mins in. How do u tie the gopro to u? And do u also use the orange floaty?
Thank you! I have a string with one end tied to the camera and the other end attached to my suit. It's a big pain in the butt when the string gets in the way but better than losing it. I used the floaty case before but not anymore. Risking it for the biscuit haha.
Primo sesh
Bro you need to get right over inside on the peak..that's where the barrels are.
Maybe next time. The deeper you go the shallower it is and some of the barrels the pros were getting were almost dry. A couple of pretty gnarly injuries happened this day.
Canuck log surfin' looks fun, eh?
Is t the area notorious for white sharks?
I’ve been cage diving in SF, Cal and I’m pretty sure when I went to Vancouver there were just as many adverts to go cage diving with whites?
There is great whites around in this part of the Pacific, but so far they haven't really been an issue for surfers. I've never heard of shark cage diving being a thing up here, but maybe they just like sticking to the deeper waters or they don't like their meals being wrapped up in this much neoprene.
Those slippery rocks are no joke for anyone who doesn't know they're like a combination between ice slippery and slime. Its a pain in the ass you're trying to grip with your every muscle in your foot and stubbing your toes every step, worrying about not seriously slamming your board when you fall etc just not fun. 😅
Haha sounds like you're well experienced in the sneaky cobblestone slime yourself. 😉🍌
Need to wax those rocks at low tide so they're not so slippery!
Now we're talking haha! Might have to use this concept for something funny in an upcoming episode! 🙏😅
What do you do if a pod of hostile orcas shows up and there are also angry local sasquatch on the beach?
I would probably throw them my last tins of herring as a distraction and head for the hills.
@@tofinosurfphotography Are there rumors of people seeing them around that area? I hear it's a hot spot.
I wouldn't call it a hot spot but the fishermen say they're out there.
Mate, nice Right!!! That’s a great looking wave.
Heads up though - As a Maori Surfer - don’t go to New Zealand anytime with that Board. Having a Warrior Chiefs “Ta Moko” on it ( His facial Tattoo’s ), and this is real depiction; some Maori would most definitely take serious offense about a “Pakeha” ( Non-Maori ) having that emblazoned on a Board for all to see. Just a heads up Bro.
I’d certainly confront you over it - so yeah, just a heads Bro.
Stay wet!!!
Thank you so much bro! I genuinely appreciate your comment and the insight as I had no idea the significance of that symbol or the meaning behind it. It is a beautiful symbol and I know the shaper, Scott Rowley is from NZ but I can absolutely understand if it could be a cause of confrontation if someone like myself was over there with it on my board. I'm curious to know what your opinion is about me riding that board here in Canada and if it makes a difference if the symbol is culturally significant to the person who made the board?
@@tofinosurfphotographyKia Ora Bro.
It’s a facial “take” of a Maori Chief. Scott, unless he’s Maori, should have known better to add this without first consulting an Elder.. It’s the same as having a board with “I’m Da Hui” and wearing black shorts at Pipe, and your skin colour is…..ah…..”on the lighter side” shall we say. The odds of getting out of the line-ip without a fat lip and a board in two pieces is…….so so.
If Scott is a Pakeha, he should have known better. If he is Maori - yeah, it’s fine to shape a board and bang that on it, but giving it to someone else - who isn’t Maori, ahhhhhh yeah…..that’s not a good idea.
My advice is….If…..and I mean If, someone ever says something, your reply is “I was gifted this by a Kiwi Surfer, and have looked after this since then. I am honoured to have been gifted this….”
Surf it, have fun but just be aware bro. I was in a Mall in SoCal ( use to live there ) and this Shop was selling the exact same “Ta Moko” as transfers. Within a Week, they had been removed - so yeah,Kiwi’s are everywhere. I use to live in Castlegar BC……hahahaha….before moving to Ed’ over in AB, and then to Wainwright near the Sask Border - so yeah, we Kiwis get around Bro - hahahahahahaha.
Interesting, I really appreciate your response and insight. I'll definitely check in with the shaper and get his take on it. 🙏
Wheres Malcolm fletcher anybody know Malcolm ???
Ice cream headache?
Lota yapin an howin
Looks like a blast, but you call that “massive”?
I think it's just a matter of perspective. See my other comment for a more in depth explanation.
I’m coming down to valentinos bay from Mexico this Saturday! Any recomendations ? Where is the spot !?
Beat it
While I enjoyed your video here and thanks for posting it, the words "massive" and "historic" in your title seem a bit much, given the number of times I've seen surf this big or better on Southern Vancouver Island. When did 8' become "massive"? Take care.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it and I can appreciate your comment. I feel like in this case it might be a matter of perspective. With every video, photo and article about surfing that claims "biggest, most perfect, historic" etc there is always going to be debate, and there will always be folks with different perspectives, whether the waves are 8 feet or 80 feet. Maybe you have seen bigger and better days in your lifetime and if you have I genuine respect for you for putting in the time and hard work, and being in the right time and place. My videos and photos are from my perspective and I have rarely experienced a day quite like this in Canada.
More than jealous boys
Turned down the sound and it was much better
Invest in a drone….the GoPros suck
I have one. You can see more of my work on Instagram @tofinosurfphotography and at www.tofinosurfphotography.com
the oooos and awwwwes are too much, chill and focus on getting your owns clips
A little hootin and hollerin is all part of the experience when you're sharing waves with your friends. 😉
beautiful but not historic.
POV SucKS!
Ah well, thank you for taking the time to click on this video and leave a comment anyways. There seems to be a few other folks out there that enjoy it, so I will keep on making them until I can afford to pay a filmer.
What a useless comment.
Bro, pro tip (had no idea, learn with an older surfer) every time you carry your board on the rocks flip it the other way (fins pointing 'outside') because when you fall you don't damage the 2, both board and fins.
Very wise advice! I'll definitely do that in the future. I really appreciate the tip!
supurbest