THIS GUY IS A LIFESAVER. He saved my Element with its constant P2646 errors. I did everything, including cleaning all the screens and replacing all the VTEC/VTC hardware with OEM equipment. Still no luck. This guy personally messaged me on FB and recommended I try an ATF fluid engine flush and then use heavier 5w-30 oil. It worked. Thank You, Sir. I would've personally messaged you back, but I couldn't find the message thread. Everyone should try this trick if they can't get the p2646 CEL to go away.
@@emjohtrader watch the video. About halfway through he talked about using automatic transmission fluid to clean out the engines. That’s what worked for me.
After everything changing the oil trying an aftermarket vtec solenoid using seafoam nothing worked. I disassembled the OEM VTEC solenoid that was on my car changed all the gaskets went to the junkyard got a few vtec solenoid oil pressure switches ( just unscrewed them and took the swtches) and I would switch them and see if that was the issue eventually one of them worked, the code went off by itself and the VSA light also went out. Lesson learned keep your oil very clean and at the right level and only use Honda OEM VTEC solenoids. The most likely failure is the oil pressure switch portion on the vtec, so there is no point in buying the whole thing even if you're buying new if you can find an oem switch that should fix it but it is hard to find these new, so you're better off visiting your local junkyard because if you find that one is not working you can just take it back easy get a another till you find one that works.
@@JujuPig-vz5mq awesome. If it were to “fail again” in the next few months, I would replace the connectors to the spool valve with a set of sealed connectors like the ones we offer. Glad you got yours fixed!
12:20 The red color of trans fluid is just a dye so you know what kind of fluid it is - the red dye color varies based on type of fluid (compare ATF+4 to Valvoline ATF to Ford Mercon LV for example - three different shades of red or cherry). CVT fluid is often green, but sometimes amber. ATF 134 FE is blue. All of those fluids are excellent detergents, but are all different colors. The dye is not the detergent. Otherwise, excellent video and definitely the most thorough, comprehensive, and correct one on the topic on UA-cam. These are exactly my troubleshooting steps as well - oil (no, low, wrong, bad, dirty), electrical issues, replace screens & clean spool assembly, then replace assembly as last resort with OE parts. Nearly always you can fix these problems with no actual parts, though, which makes customers very happy (especially when another shop gave up!). Great hints on re-directing water flow and sealing the electrical connectors, however. I'll keep those in the tool bag now. I've got all my K24 customers on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and they're all running great. I use Wix filters though, lol. You are correct that Honda OE provides the right oil flow but I've never had a issue with Wix or even Supertech - just not the extended interval filters from any brand.
Absolutely worked for me. I was at my wits end until I put 5W20 and a half quart of ATF. So far, it's running great and no codes. Thank you very much for this video.
Interesting post. Hondas that are sold (American made) in Mexico use 5w-30 in their new turbocharged engines and NOT 0W-20. They have a much warmer climate than Hondas in the US. We’re running the new Valvoline Clean and Protect on several Honda engines to include the K24. We’re asking customers to return after 2000 miles to replace the engine oil filter. We use the Wix XP series since they’ve been excellent filters throughout the years without any issues. Slipped our minds about the filter screens on the spool valves…..interesting point! Thanks for the great information.
WOW no kidding i thought i was seeing things i took the solinoid apart and found a water bed on top i took it all apart brake cleane it but it must have damaged the solinoide its self .. thank you so much,
Great one man! I have three elements and will do the water intrusion service before I get any problems, being here in Florida we are prone to electrical issues because of the high humidity and rain. Cheers!
@@audioworkshop1 we have videos on that as well. Best cheap option is KYB, but they have been having some issue lately. Specifically on anything lifted. Best overall option are Bilsteins. That's what we have on our shop Element, and our videos discuss the installation of Bilsteins and Swift springs. Video 1 here: ua-cam.com/video/AN8ACQWGkgY/v-deo.html
Dude you are a flipping genius. This is the best, most comprehensive P2646 explanation/fix I have ever seen, and I've seen a LOT. I'm in the process of trying to fix this code again, beating myself up, going through every line in the manual, thinking it's all my fault...although thanks to your video I found out some things I could improve on, now I know I'm not crazy. I got Dorman parts and non-Honda filters. And I'm gonna try the oil fix you specified. Gonna have to get a Honda VTEC solenoid, but no problem, money well spent if it fixes the issue. Just like you said, the Dorman doesn't work, my gasket is cracked. Gonna change everything the right way this time. I can thank you enough, my '06 E is my third child, we've been through so much together. I hate to see it suffer needlessly, is the most reliable, loyal car I've ever had. Thanks again, man
Thanks for the kind words. You also need one of our water shields for the full preventative fix. Check us out at Classicautomotivenc on Facebook or Instagram. We have the shields available there. It is Element specific and Element themed. Hoping you get p2646/2647 out of your life for good.
Awesome video.. I’d like to also add, if the k series motor is pinging under load, it can also contribute to the horrible P2646, so ensure timing chain and tensioner is all sweet, keep up with valve lash adjustments as well.
They do, and it is a big no no for the Element K24 engine. Some will say otherwise, but I do this all day everyday, and have been for nearly 25 years. My experience tells me that certain engine groups do not fair well with certain types of oil.
@@kriskafowlski4463 The D17 and R18 engines are fine on 5w20, but they can also run 5w30. One of the main reasons that the Element is different than its other K24 brethren is that it generally operates at a higher RPM than say the Accord or CRV because our transmissions have lower gearing for pulling. Thus, the oil gets a bit warmer and can cause gunk to build up if the oil isn't changed as frequently as it should be.
I agree with you about Dorman products. Some of them are really good but if you want a reliable complicated part for Honda or any other brands, stick with OEM. I've had experience with these on my Honda and Ford cars and SUV's.
Im located in Columbia SC and would take the hike to get this problem solved. I get that hiccup on fast acceleration, had non of this before last weeks rain. Some yellow Triangle with a VSA. I can run with a slow start but of corse one the VSA comes up my cruise control goes out. How and where are you? How can I contact you.
I have same exact problem after the heavy rain but I am able to drive without any problem except engine light and VSA light came on. If I turn the engine off and restart, VSA light goes off, but it comes back within next 20 minutes most time. Did you be able to repair and how? I watched whole video 3 times. I like to know how did you fix this problem?
@ your specific issue will require you to replace the connectors to the spool valve. Look through our channel and you’ll see that we make these connectors and offer them on our Instagram page @classicautomotivenc
My '05 Element has had the VTEC solenoid (Honda OEM) replaced three times. The small filter on the passenger side of the engine has been replaced twice with Honda filters. Recently, the VTC oil control valve was replaced along with the oil pressure sending unit. The oil is changed every 3,000 miles with Honda filters . Should I change the oil again with the added transmission fluid? Im thinking do the cowl seal, seal around the windshield washer, place a license plate over the solenoid, and rplace both connectors on the VTEC solenoid. How do I get these connectors from you?
There's also a VTC Oil Control Valve in the end of the head. Held in by one bolt, very expensive o-ring if you mangle it and it leaks....but this valve can also can go bad OR the screens that are in it can get clogged with sludgy oil. In my case, I have done the 2 screens you show, plus have cleaned this one a few times. Initially it was very clogged. It is very easy to access
Generally speaking, the VTC being clogged, or leaking a lot throws a different code than P2646. It usually throws a P0010 and sometimes a few other codes. While it can contribute to a P2646, it is not usually the cause. But I agree, the screens in it clog and need to be cleaned as well. I’ve found that the ATF added to the oil does a decent job of cleaning these screens out.
@@jeffwest5551 Yes and no. Both have functions in the variable valve timing function, but they are separate as they relate to the ECU and where they mount on the engine. .
@@classicautomotivenc Yes. My understanding is that the VTC phases cam timing and Vtec only changes the valve lift at higher rpms, but I don't claim to know much.
@@jeffwest5551 yes, VTC in conjunction with the cam gear/cam phaser. And VTEC on these Element K24's isn't quite as aggressive as a K20 or some of the other K24's.
I had this code on an accord once, and it was caused by a leaking power steering hose dripping over the oil pressure switch. I believe the fix was a combination of replacing the switch and cleaning up the connector real good. And of course replacing the leaking hose first 😉. Who makes your element headlights? They look good.
Great videos! Proactively sealing my wiper spray on my ‘08 Element LX and need advice for type of Honda Bond to use. Seeing option of Honda Bond 4 and Honda Bond RT. Your advice? Thanks!
Trying to solve this problem on daughters 08 Element. I do not find it coincidental that a recent oil change which included Lucas stabilizer now giving me a problem with the same code. Do you see a problem running Lucas (25% of total lubricant volume) in this engine with high mileage 200K? Great vid and fellow NC resident.
@@MrZombieveteran I’ve found that the drain backs can get gunked up and Lucas could cause the oil to drain back slowly or it could clog up the screens front and rear on your engine. Again, those are “could”’s. But if the issue showed up after putting Lucas in it, then it is highly likely the two are associated. I’d drain it, put in 4 qts of Rotella T4 10w30 with a half quart of ATF3 and change again 3,000 miles later.
@@omega_discgolf check us out on Instagram or Facebook @classicautomotivenc We do offer a lot of products for this issue with Elements. So please feel free to reach out.
Ok, close to having a bonfire. I’ve replaced all of it on my wife’s 2008 CRV…Honda parts, valve & screen on back of motor along with screen above the tensioner, the valve on the end of the motor, oil change with 5W-30 & trans fluid. Plug scanner in & clear the codes (2647, VSA, Open ground in pass curtain airbag). Before I drive it 50 feet, P2647 popping back up. Suggestions??
@@1999jimi have you replaced the front and rear VTC and spool valve screens? Does it have an OEM Honda Genuine spool valve on it? And you might possibly need to clean/check the VTC actuator.
My 04 CRV has 221K miles, and after a P2646 code, had a shop replace the spool valve about 1.5 years ago, and they put in 5W20 Synthetic. They did not use OEM parts. The 2646 code just returned, so I was going to drain & switch to the regular 5W30 & ATF you recommended. (before I switch out with OEM spool valve) Is the half-quart of ATF doing something different than the High-Mileage oil? For high mileage Honda's with K24 engines, should we FIRST clean it with 5W30 & ATF for 3K miles, and THEN, go to High Mileage 5/30? Thanks
@@snorjb1 yes the ATF acts as a cleaner. I would still recommend changing to an OE Spool Valve and then replacing the connectors to the spool valve as well. We offer those connectors, new OE connectors that have been sealed permanently. Contact us on IG or Facebook if you are interested in a set.
Thanks for putting out an informative video. When adding the ATF, do you leave it in for the duration til the next regular oil change, or do you do a shorter increment like 1k miles?
@@hammarashi I keep a good check on the oil. If it gets dark within the first 500-1000 miles, I drain it and do a short change. This has only happened on very internally dirty engines. So yes, if it browns out quickly I change it at around 1,000 and do the treatment again
@@dannyboy632 WD does supposedly stand for water displacement. I would use Berrymans electronic cleaner though and then some compressed air to blow it out.
@@rvdreamer8855 the stem for the plate cover is too short? Not understanding what that means? If you’re talking about the stud that we mount the water shed plate to? It’s plenty long enough. I no longer apply Hondabond to the connectors, I completely seal them as seen in our latest video showing the spool valve connectors that we build in our shop.
Excellent video. Extreamly clear and informative. I had this problem before on the original motor of my 03 Element as the bottom end got old and lost oil pressure (300K miles). I did fix it for a while with 5w-30 oil (thicker oil increased pressure). I've since replaced the engine and it ran great for many more thousand miles. But now the 2646 has returned and it cuts out at 3000 RPM. The engine is clean but when I checked my screens I found metal shavings in the spool valve screen. In your opinion do I now have a head issue? Should I not waste time pursuing the 2646 fix but instead replace the head or motor?
I do not think you have a head issue unless the camshafts make excessive noise, or you hear bottom end noise. You could pull the valve cover and inspect the camshafts to insure there is no wear there. However, I think you will be fine. Just need to go through the process of changing the oil to 5w30, and then checking the plugs for water intrusion. Seal the washer nozzle to the hood, clean and/or replace the connector to the spool valve, and then get one of the custom covers we will be revealing this week to keep water from getting into the spool valve connectors again. I think you will be fine. Those screens are designed to keep that trash out of the Spool valve. Also, might try a Honda Genuine oil filter if you are not using one.
Would it be okay to use 5w-30 synthetic high mileage for a 04 accord almost reaching 200,000 miles or should I stick to regular synthetic and with the half quart of atf
@@naturepat7927 I prefer not to mix the atf with synthetic. I would recommend conventional 5w30 with the ATF and then the next oil change switch to 5w30 synthetic high mileage.
Once you get water in there, does the code ever clear up on its own? After the heavy rain yesterday here in florida, this code popped up. I'm wondering if it wiped the spool valve out completely, like you were saying. Howd you dry it with the heat gun? I though the heat from the manifold would dry it up after a day of driving.
If it's your first time of the code coming on after heavy rains, then you need to go for kind of the first line of defense. Unplug the spool valve electrical connections and blow them out with compressed air, the some contact cleaner, then dielectric grease in the connector itself. A bit of hondabond on the back of the connector where the wires go in. Then you need to seal the passenger washer nozzle with hondabond. Basically sealing it to the hood. The cowl seal may need replacing, but the end all is the new solution that we came up with in another video. The metal water deflection plate. We sell them if you're interested.
Great information and video bud. I remember you talked to me all about this at EOTD2024 w/ my daughter recording us. I do use Mobil 1 5W20 Truck/SUV oil and the associated Mobil 1 Filter M-110A oil and now considering to your recommended 10w30 w/ ATF Dexron III. Do you use this year round even in the winter?
Newer iterations of the K24, like my 2011 CR-V call for 0W-20. Also, I usually go Honda original parts, but when it comes to oil filters, Wix filters (especially XP) are not “Fake”, and usually outperform OE filters from Honda, Toyota, Subaru.
@@carnold.knowledge that’s great, I was referencing the 03-11 versions and specifically Elements. They are different because of transmission gearing. At 80 mph my 5 speed manual Element is near 4,000 rpms, whereas a CRV would be well below 3,000 rpms, probably closer to 2,000. Heat build up in the oil then becomes a concern.
@@classicautomotivencI hear ya brother. I have a rare issue with my K24: it actually “makes oil”! I replaced all injectors and switched to Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20, and my Fuel/Oil dilution numbers have gone down to a safe(er) range. But I’m also thinking I might be able to go with higher viscosity oil, in the event the wiper rings don’t get fixed with the new oil. Do you have any recommendations on weight, and have you heard of tried Valvoline Restore & Protect? I feel like it is a gentler version of adding ATF.
@@carnold.knowledge I have heard of it. I use the half quart of ATF to really clean things when you have an internally dirty engine. Because of the heat/heat soak generated in an Element engine because of the higher RPM’s oil coking is a real issue. In your case, if it was fuel getting into the crank case, I would first check the PCV valve, make sure it’s flowing properly, and then if it came into my shop with those issues, I would do an oil change of T4 Rotella 10w30 to give the rings something to grab. Fuel contamination is a bad thing and can gall the cylinder walls. Gentle is a good way to go about remedying the issue.
@@shanechostetler9997 it might work for a while or just send it back and bite the bullet and go to Honda. But unless your oil pressure switch is leaking out of the top, it likely is not bad and you could put a new gasket on it. If it’s an Element, upgrade the oil and use the sealed pigtail that we offer and I’d bet it goes away.
@@shanechostetler9997 it’s mostly Element related because of water intrusion. In my experience the Accord’s and CRVs only struggle with it if the oil isn’t changed regularly.
I do not understand why non-OEM spool valves are so flawed. It's not a complicated assembly to copy. And the price of a Honda assembly is offensive. We deserve affordable non-OEM parts that work!
@@jaym5938 the issue with the aftermarket solenoid isn’t the solenoid itself, it’s that the oil pressure switches are not calibrated properly so the ECU believes that the engine does not have enough oil pressure. OE pressure switches don’t seal extremely well in the aftermarket spool valves, and are also quite costly. I think my price on just the oil pressure switch from Honda is near $100
You're off base about the trans fluid. The red is just a dye. Not a detergent. Also. 0-20 5-20 oil is just fine. Do your research on oil. Some 5-30 oils are close to a 5-20 oil. I've got a 05 element I drove off the lot new. It's got 200k and it's never had a valve cover off. Doesn't burn a drop of oil. Nor leak. It's had nothing but mobil 1 5-20 or Amsoil 5-20. It's whole life. Change at 5 k miles. Use Wix or mobile 1 oil filters. Never a problem.
@@garygilbert8566 amsoil and parts store brand oils are not comparable even if the weights are identical. Amsoil is top shelf oil. Oil based problems and the p2646 code has to do with oil coking because of lack of oil changes or the use of cheap “dirtier” oil. The red is a dye, and ATF has more detergent in it than engine oil. Reasons we don’t use engine oil in automatic transmission any more. Honda’s in the 80’s did. Anyhow, all that to say, it sounds like you have maintained your Element properly with great oil its entire life. Kudos on that. But most people don’t and then need to gently flush out the gunk that’s built up in the oil drain backs and on the ring packs. ATF3 is the most gentle way to do that without the chance of damaging the rod and main bearings like a motor flush would. So in your case, you don’t need the information I have provided, but many who buy Elements cheap because they have issues do need the information. It has saved quite a few that were bound for the crusher because of the p2646 code. I wish we all ran Amsoil or Motul oil in our cars. They’d last a lot longer.
Absolutely worked for me. I was at my wits end until I put 5W20 and a half quart of ATF. So far, it's running great and no codes. Thank you very much for this video.
THIS GUY IS A LIFESAVER. He saved my Element with its constant P2646 errors. I did everything, including cleaning all the screens and replacing all the VTEC/VTC hardware with OEM equipment. Still no luck. This guy personally messaged me on FB and recommended I try an ATF fluid engine flush and then use heavier 5w-30 oil. It worked. Thank You, Sir. I would've personally messaged you back, but I couldn't find the message thread. Everyone should try this trick if they can't get the p2646 CEL to go away.
Please tell me more. I have a07 pilot. I have tried everything.
@@emjohtrader watch the video. About halfway through he talked about using automatic transmission fluid to clean out the engines. That’s what worked for me.
@@drbyers I will try that. It is driving me crazy
@@emjohtrader do it before every oil change that way to clean out the possible
After everything changing the oil trying an aftermarket vtec solenoid using seafoam nothing worked. I disassembled the OEM VTEC solenoid that was on my car changed all the gaskets went to the junkyard got a few vtec solenoid oil pressure switches ( just unscrewed them and took the swtches) and I would switch them and see if that was the issue eventually one of them worked, the code went off by itself and the VSA light also went out. Lesson learned keep your oil very clean and at the right level and only use Honda OEM VTEC solenoids. The most likely failure is the oil pressure switch portion on the vtec, so there is no point in buying the whole thing even if you're buying new if you can find an oem switch that should fix it but it is hard to find these new, so you're better off visiting your local junkyard because if you find that one is not working you can just take it back easy get a another till you find one that works.
I had this exact problem and it was definitely the VTech solenoid once I replaced it it worked great no problems.
Replacing the spool valve is what fixed it for me.
@@JujuPig-vz5mq awesome. If it were to “fail again” in the next few months, I would replace the connectors to the spool valve with a set of sealed connectors like the ones we offer. Glad you got yours fixed!
12:20 The red color of trans fluid is just a dye so you know what kind of fluid it is - the red dye color varies based on type of fluid (compare ATF+4 to Valvoline ATF to Ford Mercon LV for example - three different shades of red or cherry). CVT fluid is often green, but sometimes amber. ATF 134 FE is blue. All of those fluids are excellent detergents, but are all different colors. The dye is not the detergent.
Otherwise, excellent video and definitely the most thorough, comprehensive, and correct one on the topic on UA-cam. These are exactly my troubleshooting steps as well - oil (no, low, wrong, bad, dirty), electrical issues, replace screens & clean spool assembly, then replace assembly as last resort with OE parts. Nearly always you can fix these problems with no actual parts, though, which makes customers very happy (especially when another shop gave up!). Great hints on re-directing water flow and sealing the electrical connectors, however. I'll keep those in the tool bag now.
I've got all my K24 customers on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and they're all running great. I use Wix filters though, lol. You are correct that Honda OE provides the right oil flow but I've never had a issue with Wix or even Supertech - just not the extended interval filters from any brand.
Absolutely worked for me. I was at my wits end until I put 5W20 and a half quart of ATF. So far, it's running great and no codes. Thank you very much for this video.
Thank you. I do not have either of the codes but I do have a Honda Element and I live where it rains alot.
Interesting post. Hondas that are sold (American made) in Mexico use 5w-30 in their new turbocharged engines and NOT 0W-20. They have a much warmer climate than Hondas in the US.
We’re running the new Valvoline Clean and Protect on several Honda engines to include the K24. We’re asking customers to return after 2000 miles to replace the engine oil filter. We use the Wix XP series since they’ve been excellent filters throughout the years without any issues. Slipped our minds about the filter screens on the spool valves…..interesting point! Thanks for the great information.
I’m going to do some preventative maintenance. I need my E every day. Thanks, super informative.
WOW no kidding i thought i was seeing things i took the solinoid apart and found a water bed on top i took it all apart brake cleane it but it must have damaged the solinoide its self .. thank you so much,
Great one man! I have three elements and will do the water intrusion service before I get any problems, being here in Florida we are prone to electrical issues because of the high humidity and rain. Cheers!
@@audioworkshop1 we have almost of the supplies needed in stock if you’re looking for any of them. Cowl seal, OEM connectors, covers/deflectors, etc.
@@classicautomotivenc it looks like I will need to replace the shocks in my 04' in your experience what is the best option
@@audioworkshop1 we have videos on that as well. Best cheap option is KYB, but they have been having some issue lately. Specifically on anything lifted. Best overall option are Bilsteins. That's what we have on our shop Element, and our videos discuss the installation of Bilsteins and Swift springs. Video 1 here: ua-cam.com/video/AN8ACQWGkgY/v-deo.html
@@audioworkshop1 And then video 2: ua-cam.com/video/vBnliiE6AGU/v-deo.html
Dude you are a flipping genius. This is the best, most comprehensive P2646 explanation/fix I have ever seen, and I've seen a LOT.
I'm in the process of trying to fix this code again, beating myself up, going through every line in the manual, thinking it's all my fault...although thanks to your video I found out some things I could improve on, now I know I'm not crazy. I got Dorman parts and non-Honda filters. And I'm gonna try the oil fix you specified.
Gonna have to get a Honda VTEC solenoid, but no problem, money well spent if it fixes the issue. Just like you said, the Dorman doesn't work, my gasket is cracked. Gonna change everything the right way this time.
I can thank you enough, my '06 E is my third child, we've been through so much together. I hate to see it suffer needlessly, is the most reliable, loyal car I've ever had. Thanks again, man
Thanks for the kind words. You also need one of our water shields for the full preventative fix. Check us out at Classicautomotivenc on Facebook or Instagram. We have the shields available there. It is Element specific and Element themed. Hoping you get p2646/2647 out of your life for good.
@@classicautomotivenc Ya. This is pure brilliance. Got anything for ex-wives? Kidding!
Awesome video.. I’d like to also add, if the k series motor is pinging under load, it can also contribute to the horrible P2646, so ensure timing chain and tensioner is all sweet, keep up with valve lash adjustments as well.
@@enjoiskateboardingSB I’ll second valve adjustment especially on the Element as it operates at higher RPM than the Accord/CRV
I’ve done all three and still had the limp mode until I bypassed the oil pressure switch on the Vtech solenoid assembly.
How long take to dry out from water
@@dannyboy632 are you replacing the plugs? We offer a set of sealed plugs if you need them (reach out on Instagram @classicautomotivenc).
Thanks for the video. Interesting about 0-20. A lot of dealers use 0-20 full synthetic on oil changes not 5-20
They do, and it is a big no no for the Element K24 engine. Some will say otherwise, but I do this all day everyday, and have been for nearly 25 years. My experience tells me that certain engine groups do not fair well with certain types of oil.
@@classicautomotivenc Great thanks. Appreciate your Video. My Mom and my Grandson have Elements that I work on
Meant to ask also. What about for the 1.7 and 1.8 Honda engines in the Civic’s? Should I run 5-30 instead of 5-20 also? Thanks
@@kriskafowlski4463 The D17 and R18 engines are fine on 5w20, but they can also run 5w30. One of the main reasons that the Element is different than its other K24 brethren is that it generally operates at a higher RPM than say the Accord or CRV because our transmissions have lower gearing for pulling. Thus, the oil gets a bit warmer and can cause gunk to build up if the oil isn't changed as frequently as it should be.
@@classicautomotivenc ok great. Thanks. Appreciate it
This is great stuff to know 👍
long video , but so informative..... what / where is the name of your shop and address... Thanks from HOUSTON
Classic Automotive. Find us on Instagram or Facebook @classicautomotivenc
I agree with you about Dorman products. Some of them are really good but if you want a reliable complicated part for Honda or any other brands, stick with OEM. I've had experience with these on my Honda and Ford cars and SUV's.
Im located in Columbia SC and would take the hike to get this problem solved. I get that hiccup on fast acceleration, had non of this before last weeks rain. Some yellow Triangle with a VSA. I can run with a slow start but of corse one the VSA comes up my cruise control goes out. How and where are you? How can I contact you.
@@allthingsme9810 definitely something we can remedy. Will likely need the works to fix it.
I have same exact problem after the heavy rain but I am able to drive without any problem except engine light and VSA light came on. If I turn the engine off and restart, VSA light goes off, but it comes back within next 20 minutes most time. Did you be able to repair and how? I watched whole video 3 times. I like to know how did you fix this problem?
@ your specific issue will require you to replace the connectors to the spool valve. Look through our channel and you’ll see that we make these connectors and offer them on our Instagram page @classicautomotivenc
ua-cam.com/video/Wr9KgQyPNKo/v-deo.htmlsi=IHUdDJsftGuXaMGw
My '05 Element has had the VTEC solenoid (Honda OEM) replaced three times. The small filter on the passenger side of the engine has been replaced twice with Honda filters. Recently, the VTC oil control valve was replaced along with the oil pressure sending unit. The oil is changed every 3,000 miles with Honda filters . Should I change the oil again with the added transmission fluid? Im thinking do the cowl seal, seal around the windshield washer, place a license plate over the solenoid, and rplace both connectors on the VTEC solenoid. How do I get these connectors from you?
@@markaycock9835 contact us on Instagram at Classicautomotivenc. We have all of that in stock.
There's also a VTC Oil Control Valve in the end of the head. Held in by one bolt, very expensive o-ring if you mangle it and it leaks....but this valve can also can go bad OR the screens that are in it can get clogged with sludgy oil. In my case, I have done the 2 screens you show, plus have cleaned this one a few times. Initially it was very clogged. It is very easy to access
Generally speaking, the VTC being clogged, or leaking a lot throws a different code than P2646. It usually throws a P0010 and sometimes a few other codes. While it can contribute to a P2646, it is not usually the cause. But I agree, the screens in it clog and need to be cleaned as well. I’ve found that the ATF added to the oil does a decent job of cleaning these screens out.
@@classicautomotivenc yes I believe these are two separate systems, is that correct?
@@jeffwest5551 Yes and no. Both have functions in the variable valve timing function, but they are separate as they relate to the ECU and where they mount on the engine.
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@@classicautomotivenc Yes. My understanding is that the VTC phases cam timing and Vtec only changes the valve lift at higher rpms, but I don't claim to know much.
@@jeffwest5551 yes, VTC in conjunction with the cam gear/cam phaser. And VTEC on these Element K24's isn't quite as aggressive as a K20 or some of the other K24's.
Where can I purchase those two plugs for oil pressure and solenoid please ?
@@Dpradenas5622 contact us on Instagram at Classicautomotivenc
I run 10-30 on my element for no reason and it runs just fine
Well you could supplement a half quart of ATF3 in there if it was dark or gummed up in the valve cover but I’d bet it’s honey gold…….
I had this code on an accord once, and it was caused by a leaking power steering hose dripping over the oil pressure switch. I believe the fix was a combination of replacing the switch and cleaning up the connector real good. And of course replacing the leaking hose first 😉.
Who makes your element headlights? They look good.
These headlights are from Amerilite.
Ok thanks
Great videos! Proactively sealing my wiper spray on my ‘08 Element LX and need advice for type of Honda Bond to use. Seeing option of Honda Bond 4 and Honda Bond RT. Your advice? Thanks!
I use the RT version. Or I also use The Right Stuff black, but it’s overkill for a washer nozzle
What part of NC are you in?
@@foxbodcom7993near Burlington
@@classicautomotivenc is there a shop number going to Charlotte in October
Trying to solve this problem on daughters 08 Element. I do not find it coincidental that a recent oil change which included Lucas stabilizer now giving me a problem with the same code. Do you see a problem running Lucas (25% of total lubricant volume) in this engine with high mileage 200K?
Great vid and fellow NC resident.
@@MrZombieveteran I’ve found that the drain backs can get gunked up and Lucas could cause the oil to drain back slowly or it could clog up the screens front and rear on your engine. Again, those are “could”’s. But if the issue showed up after putting Lucas in it, then it is highly likely the two are associated. I’d drain it, put in 4 qts of Rotella T4 10w30 with a half quart of ATF3 and change again 3,000 miles later.
Wondering if you have a web page i think I’m dealing with water in element and would like to get some parts possibly from you ???
@@omega_discgolf check us out on Instagram or Facebook @classicautomotivenc We do offer a lot of products for this issue with Elements. So please feel free to reach out.
Ok, close to having a bonfire. I’ve replaced all of it on my wife’s 2008 CRV…Honda parts, valve & screen on back of motor along with screen above the tensioner, the valve on the end of the motor, oil change with 5W-30 & trans fluid. Plug scanner in & clear the codes (2647, VSA, Open ground in pass curtain airbag). Before I drive it 50 feet, P2647 popping back up. Suggestions??
@@1999jimi have you replaced the front and rear VTC and spool valve screens? Does it have an OEM Honda Genuine spool valve on it? And you might possibly need to clean/check the VTC actuator.
Are the water intrusion diverter plates available? Great video 👍🏻
@@jeffmaxwell7041 yes they are. Apologies, I’ve been doing hurricane relief here in North Carolina.
Check out IG or FB @classicautomotivenc
My 04 CRV has 221K miles, and after a P2646 code, had a shop replace the spool valve about 1.5 years ago, and they put in 5W20 Synthetic. They did not use OEM parts. The 2646 code just returned, so I was going to drain & switch to the regular 5W30 & ATF you recommended. (before I switch out with OEM spool valve) Is the half-quart of ATF doing something different than the High-Mileage oil? For high mileage Honda's with K24 engines, should we FIRST clean it with 5W30 & ATF for 3K miles, and THEN, go to High Mileage 5/30? Thanks
@@snorjb1 yes the ATF acts as a cleaner. I would still recommend changing to an OE Spool Valve and then replacing the connectors to the spool valve as well. We offer those connectors, new OE connectors that have been sealed permanently. Contact us on IG or Facebook if you are interested in a set.
@@snorjb1 and after 1-2 oil changed you can switch to straight 5w30. Also make sure to use a Honda genuine oil filter.
Thanks for putting out an informative video. When adding the ATF, do you leave it in for the duration til the next regular oil change, or do you do a shorter increment like 1k miles?
@@hammarashi I keep a good check on the oil. If it gets dark within the first 500-1000 miles, I drain it and do a short change. This has only happened on very internally dirty engines. So yes, if it browns out quickly I change it at around 1,000 and do the treatment again
Sounds very preventative. Nice
And THIS is why only change my own oil, along with doing my own basic to medium mechanical work.
Then you will likely like this: ua-cam.com/video/UoYJtBmW80c/v-deo.htmlsi=W1jOUl9tSKFJG0vW
Can you spray wd40 on the switch after wet
@@dannyboy632 WD does supposedly stand for water displacement. I would use Berrymans electronic cleaner though and then some compressed air to blow it out.
Did not see how the Hondabond HT October applied on the connectors.
Also, the stem for the plate cover is too short. Any other ideas?
@@rvdreamer8855 the stem for the plate cover is too short? Not understanding what that means? If you’re talking about the stud that we mount the water shed plate to? It’s plenty long enough. I no longer apply Hondabond to the connectors, I completely seal them as seen in our latest video showing the spool valve connectors that we build in our shop.
Excellent video. Extreamly clear and informative. I had this problem before on the original motor of my 03 Element as the bottom end got old and lost oil pressure (300K miles). I did fix it for a while with 5w-30 oil (thicker oil increased pressure). I've since replaced the engine and it ran great for many more thousand miles. But now the 2646 has returned and it cuts out at 3000 RPM. The engine is clean but when I checked my screens I found metal shavings in the spool valve screen. In your opinion do I now have a head issue? Should I not waste time pursuing the 2646 fix but instead replace the head or motor?
I do not think you have a head issue unless the camshafts make excessive noise, or you hear bottom end noise. You could pull the valve cover and inspect the camshafts to insure there is no wear there. However, I think you will be fine. Just need to go through the process of changing the oil to 5w30, and then checking the plugs for water intrusion. Seal the washer nozzle to the hood, clean and/or replace the connector to the spool valve, and then get one of the custom covers we will be revealing this week to keep water from getting into the spool valve connectors again. I think you will be fine. Those screens are designed to keep that trash out of the Spool valve. Also, might try a Honda Genuine oil filter if you are not using one.
Would it be okay to use 5w-30 synthetic high mileage for a 04 accord almost reaching 200,000 miles or should I stick to regular synthetic and with the half quart of atf
@@naturepat7927 I prefer not to mix the atf with synthetic. I would recommend conventional 5w30 with the ATF and then the next oil change switch to 5w30 synthetic high mileage.
Once you get water in there, does the code ever clear up on its own? After the heavy rain yesterday here in florida, this code popped up. I'm wondering if it wiped the spool valve out completely, like you were saying. Howd you dry it with the heat gun? I though the heat from the manifold would dry it up after a day of driving.
If it's your first time of the code coming on after heavy rains, then you need to go for kind of the first line of defense. Unplug the spool valve electrical connections and blow them out with compressed air, the some contact cleaner, then dielectric grease in the connector itself. A bit of hondabond on the back of the connector where the wires go in. Then you need to seal the passenger washer nozzle with hondabond. Basically sealing it to the hood. The cowl seal may need replacing, but the end all is the new solution that we came up with in another video. The metal water deflection plate. We sell them if you're interested.
@@classicautomotivencI’m interested in the metal deflection plate and a new plug with the rubber boot. How do I go about finding the price?
@@rainbers message me on Instagram. @classicautomotivenc
Great information and video bud. I remember you talked to me all about this at EOTD2024 w/ my daughter recording us. I do use Mobil 1 5W20 Truck/SUV oil and the associated Mobil 1 Filter M-110A oil and now considering to your recommended 10w30 w/ ATF Dexron III. Do you use this year round even in the winter?
I would use the Rotella year round and know several Element owners that do. I normally suggest switching to 5w30 first though
Newer iterations of the K24, like my 2011 CR-V call for 0W-20. Also, I usually go Honda original parts, but when it comes to oil filters, Wix filters (especially XP) are not “Fake”, and usually outperform OE filters from Honda, Toyota, Subaru.
@@carnold.knowledge that’s great, I was referencing the 03-11 versions and specifically Elements. They are different because of transmission gearing. At 80 mph my 5 speed manual Element is near 4,000 rpms, whereas a CRV would be well below 3,000 rpms, probably closer to 2,000. Heat build up in the oil then becomes a concern.
@@classicautomotivencI hear ya brother. I have a rare issue with my K24: it actually “makes oil”!
I replaced all injectors and switched to Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20, and my Fuel/Oil dilution numbers have gone down to a safe(er) range.
But I’m also thinking I might be able to go with higher viscosity oil, in the event the wiper rings don’t get fixed with the new oil.
Do you have any recommendations on weight, and have you heard of tried Valvoline Restore & Protect? I feel like it is a gentler version of adding ATF.
@@carnold.knowledge I have heard of it. I use the half quart of ATF to really clean things when you have an internally dirty engine. Because of the heat/heat soak generated in an Element engine because of the higher RPM’s oil coking is a real issue.
In your case, if it was fuel getting into the crank case, I would first check the PCV valve, make sure it’s flowing properly, and then if it came into my shop with those issues, I would do an oil change of T4 Rotella 10w30 to give the rings something to grab. Fuel contamination is a bad thing and can gall the cylinder walls. Gentle is a good way to go about remedying the issue.
Great video
Crap, I just ordered an aftermarket solenoid.☹️
@@shanechostetler9997 it might work for a while or just send it back and bite the bullet and go to Honda. But unless your oil pressure switch is leaking out of the top, it likely is not bad and you could put a new gasket on it. If it’s an Element, upgrade the oil and use the sealed pigtail that we offer and I’d bet it goes away.
I can’t believe a Honda engine has these issues.
@@shanechostetler9997 it’s mostly Element related because of water intrusion. In my experience the Accord’s and CRVs only struggle with it if the oil isn’t changed regularly.
I do not understand why non-OEM spool valves are so flawed. It's not a complicated assembly to copy. And the price of a Honda assembly is offensive. We deserve affordable non-OEM parts that work!
@@jaym5938 the issue with the aftermarket solenoid isn’t the solenoid itself, it’s that the oil pressure switches are not calibrated properly so the ECU believes that the engine does not have enough oil pressure. OE pressure switches don’t seal extremely well in the aftermarket spool valves, and are also quite costly. I think my price on just the oil pressure switch from Honda is near $100
You're off base about the trans fluid. The red is just a dye. Not a detergent. Also. 0-20 5-20 oil is just fine. Do your research on oil. Some 5-30 oils are close to a 5-20 oil. I've got a 05 element I drove off the lot new. It's got 200k and it's never had a valve cover off. Doesn't burn a drop of oil. Nor leak. It's had nothing but mobil 1 5-20 or Amsoil 5-20. It's whole life. Change at 5 k miles. Use Wix or mobile 1 oil filters. Never a problem.
@@garygilbert8566 amsoil and parts store brand oils are not comparable even if the weights are identical. Amsoil is top shelf oil. Oil based problems and the p2646 code has to do with oil coking because of lack of oil changes or the use of cheap “dirtier” oil. The red is a dye, and ATF has more detergent in it than engine oil. Reasons we don’t use engine oil in automatic transmission any more. Honda’s in the 80’s did. Anyhow, all that to say, it sounds like you have maintained your Element properly with great oil its entire life. Kudos on that. But most people don’t and then need to gently flush out the gunk that’s built up in the oil drain backs and on the ring packs. ATF3 is the most gentle way to do that without the chance of damaging the rod and main bearings like a motor flush would. So in your case, you don’t need the information I have provided, but many who buy Elements cheap because they have issues do need the information. It has saved quite a few that were bound for the crusher because of the p2646 code. I wish we all ran Amsoil or Motul oil in our cars. They’d last a lot longer.
Absolutely worked for me. I was at my wits end until I put 5W20 and a half quart of ATF. So far, it's running great and no codes. Thank you very much for this video.