I know a lot of people are advocates for pressing bearings in. But I for one think that it’s best to use the hot/cold method because I can count a few cases where that has gone horribly wrong while using the press properly, cases warp/broken from pressing bearings in. Nevertheless thank you for the video!
Yes you definitely have to be careful pressing them in. Either way is fine I believe..Iv heated the cases up many times and dropped the bearings in also. And you’re welcome for the video 👍🏻.
I wonder if using egg cartoons to organize the top end bits and pieces mite work while offering some protection of thing rolling / pushed (if you have a shop cat) off the table.
Thanks for this very useful vidéo 👍 Can you tel us what kind of SKF bearing you use?🤗 It will be perfect if you tell me the reference of the SKF bearing you use for the engine rebuild 👍
First of all, thank you so much for the video. I will do the valve stem seals soon and this was perfect. Questions: Dish washing soap will be alright as long as I blow the moist out completely right? Also, im not planning to rip out the piston if it looks good. But it will definitely have some carbon build up on, what would you advice to clean the surface with while its on the bike? Appreciate the answers, thanks again.
Hey man, when you reinstall the shifting pawl and go to rotate the shift drum to demonstrate the clicking noise at 17:30, I see that you don't rotate your drum more than three positions. Upon on installing mine (twice now) I can't seem to get mine to click into more than three positions either. Is this normal? Or should I be able to shift it through all five positions on the drum? I know it's difficult to illustrate what I'm talking about with just words but I'd be willing to send you a clip of what I'm talking about if you're at all available for that I just really don't wanna put my case all back together and then find out I did my transmission incorrectly
As long as there installed properly and rotate into a few gears there shouldn’t be any issues..they won’t easily click into every gear unless you really work at it..once the other case half is installed then everything is in alignment and there’s no friction and then it should go easy into all the gears..but don’t overwhelm yourself with it. If everything is by the book you’ll be ok.
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763okay I figured it out. If I turn the lever on the drum it will allow me to shift through all five gears, but I also have one more question. At the same exact time in the video, there’s a round silver bushing sitting in front of your impact driver. I currently have that inside of my Random parts bag, it’s the only part whose home I’ve yet to rediscover. Any info on that guy?
Great video ! congrats ...I've save for watchng again. I buy recently a 2001 DRZE measured compression is a bit low around 8 kg/cm2 and probably decide to do a job like you How much did you spent in parts. Thanks !
Sorry for the late response..glad you enjoyed the video and I’m not sure what I spent I’d have to go back and look..probably around a grand I’m thinking.
Thanks! Glad to help. And Iv been doing it since 14years old, I have lots of mechanical uncles that got me started an over the years till now, and at the age of 40..this is the stage Iv got at. Iv always had a drive to do it all myself. Saves money and you know it’s done correctly.
Hi, I got a similar if not the same bearing kit as you and noticed that you also had the SKF main bearings. The ones that are stepped on one side. Im not sure if you measured them but the skf's are 19 mm wide instead of the stock 18mm . Just wondering if you had any issues with crank installation or closing the case?
@@samclad8747 I mean mine seemed like they worked fine but please make sure you know for sure that you have the same ones..I don’t want to make you make a mistake..if there saying your bearings don’t work..I’d just order the proper ones if I was you
I was pretty sure you don't lap the drz valves due to the coating, maybe it's a rumor started by a head service bc all the manual say you can but Suzuki says no
Yeah I went by the manual always do on these engine builds. And the coating is in the cylinder you just can’t go to a bigger bore size is all.. also iv Been running the bike all summer..runs great👍🏻
Unfortunately, you knocked out the bearings incorrectly by beveling them with a mallet. You could press the cap on the press and after heating it. And the bearings can also be mounted hot without a press.
Thank you. Watching this just to get a better understanding of my bike. Great video
Great video. I have been a mechanic for 40 years I have to say watching you makes me a little jealous your attention to detail is impeccable
Thank you and I appreciate it, definitely a nice compliment coming from someone with your experience.
I know a lot of people are advocates for pressing bearings in. But I for one think that it’s best to use the hot/cold method because I can count a few cases where that has gone horribly wrong while using the press properly, cases warp/broken from pressing bearings in. Nevertheless thank you for the video!
Yes you definitely have to be careful pressing them in. Either way is fine I believe..Iv heated the cases up many times and dropped the bearings in also. And you’re welcome for the video 👍🏻.
Thats how mechanicing should be done. Excellent job sir.
I’m halfway through and already learnt a bunch about my bike engine, I might actually give it a go! Just need another 3 watch’s after this one😁
Awesome…You got this👍🏻
amazing video by far one of the best videos ive seen on breaking down an engine. thank you.
Thanks I appreciate it and you’re welcome!
Welcome glad I could help!
Very detailed. I learned a lot from this. Thanks!
I wonder if using egg cartoons to organize the top end bits and pieces mite work while offering some protection of thing rolling / pushed (if you have a shop cat) off the table.
This is epic. Great to see this open heart surgery. Thanks MMB.
Welcome!
Very good instructional video. Works for my KFX400 engine too.
Good to go for another decade 👍
Great video mate
great video. Really fund watching with all the details.
Thanks I appreciate it an I’m glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for this very useful vidéo 👍
Can you tel us what kind of SKF bearing you use?🤗
It will be perfect if you tell me the reference of the SKF bearing you use for the engine rebuild 👍
Good work, been waiting for a good video
Thanks I appreciate it..and glad to help get one to you.
First of all, thank you so much for the video. I will do the valve stem seals soon and this was perfect. Questions: Dish washing soap will be alright as long as I blow the moist out completely right? Also, im not planning to rip out the piston if it looks good. But it will definitely have some carbon build up on, what would you advice to clean the surface with while its on the bike? Appreciate the answers, thanks again.
Awesome video. Thank you for taking the time and making this. Where did you find the skf bearings you used?
Thanks I appreciate it! And there’s a seller on eBay that carries the skf bearings search it on eBay many options..you can also look them up online 👍🏻
No washer on the starter clutch idler gear?
What rebuild kits did you use? Great videos, thanks so much. Giving me the confidence to try this soon
Mostly oem Suzuki parts. And your welcome glad the video will be some help for you.
Hey man, when you reinstall the shifting pawl and go to rotate the shift drum to demonstrate the clicking noise at 17:30, I see that you don't rotate your drum more than three positions. Upon on installing mine (twice now) I can't seem to get mine to click into more than three positions either. Is this normal? Or should I be able to shift it through all five positions on the drum?
I know it's difficult to illustrate what I'm talking about with just words but I'd be willing to send you a clip of what I'm talking about if you're at all available for that
I just really don't wanna put my case all back together and then find out I did my transmission incorrectly
As long as there installed properly and rotate into a few gears there shouldn’t be any issues..they won’t easily click into every gear unless you really work at it..once the other case half is installed then everything is in alignment and there’s no friction and then it should go easy into all the gears..but don’t overwhelm yourself with it. If everything is by the book you’ll be ok.
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763okay I figured it out. If I turn the lever on the drum it will allow me to shift through all five gears, but I also have one more question. At the same exact time in the video, there’s a round silver bushing sitting in front of your impact driver. I currently have that inside of my Random parts bag, it’s the only part whose home I’ve yet to rediscover. Any info on that guy?
Great video ! congrats ...I've save for watchng again. I buy recently a 2001 DRZE measured compression is a bit low around 8 kg/cm2 and probably decide to do a job like you How much did you spent in parts. Thanks !
Sorry for the late response..glad you enjoyed the video and I’m not sure what I spent I’d have to go back and look..probably around a grand I’m thinking.
How much in parts would it cost?
This is a amazing teaching tool! How did you learn all this? My 2012 runs like dog shit. Would love to do all this!
Thanks! Glad to help. And Iv been doing it since 14years old, I have lots of mechanical uncles that got me started an over the years till now, and at the age of 40..this is the stage Iv got at. Iv always had a drive to do it all myself. Saves money and you know it’s done correctly.
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763you ever messed up and either ruined an engine or had to start again?
I don't know where you found that NOISE you're playing between talking but that 💩gotta GO ...
Hi, I got a similar if not the same bearing kit as you and noticed that you also had the SKF main bearings. The ones that are stepped on one side. Im not sure if you measured them but the skf's are 19 mm wide instead of the stock 18mm . Just wondering if you had any issues with crank installation or closing the case?
I didnt have any problems
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763awesome, thank you. Id read online that it this bearing couldn't be used but ill trust someone who's actually installed one.
@@samclad8747 I mean mine seemed like they worked fine but please make sure you know for sure that you have the same ones..I don’t want to make you make a mistake..if there saying your bearings don’t work..I’d just order the proper ones if I was you
I was pretty sure you don't lap the drz valves due to the coating, maybe it's a rumor started by a head service bc all the manual say you can but Suzuki says no
Yeah I went by the manual always do on these engine builds. And the coating is in the cylinder you just can’t go to a bigger bore size is all.. also iv Been running the bike all summer..runs great👍🏻
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 I meant the coating on the valve
You did that clutch wrong the last disc is supposed to be one notch over
It will be fine
How many miles were on it?
around 20k
i'm "rebuilding" a E model. the FCR is fighting me
Do you know if the timing is the same for a 03 drz 250?
I do not know if it’s the same..definitely find out what it is in the repair manual to make sure👍🏻. You can also look it up online
@@mmbshobbychannel.3763 searched high and low for stuff online, can't find anywhere
Unfortunately, you knocked out the bearings incorrectly by beveling them with a mallet. You could press the cap on the press and after heating it. And the bearings can also be mounted hot without a press.
if only you had a tool to press them out.