Great video, thank you. Still amazes me how much you've come out of your shell since these earlier videos. Not one "uggs dugga", no "thunder", and no brake clean! I think the conservative beginnings helped you evolve into the entertaining yet professional person we see in your current videos. Great job, keep up the good work, and bless you and your family. 😀
Thanks for the video! Showed me exactly what I was getting into, and I did my daughters car earlier today. Took about 6hrs without a lift. A few things for others doing this job. Prep, most of what you'll need: 2-3 pints of PS fluid, tie-rod ends (might as well), large ziplock bag, anti-seize, oil catch pan, quality rebuilt rack(eg: cardone), 8ft rope, masking tape, ruler/stick, marker, blue locktite. solid jack stands, 21mm socket, 18mm box wrench, 18mm deep socket, 10, 11,12 mm upholstery tool, long screwdriver/pry bar, vice grips, large hammer/sledge. flex head ratchet, wobble socket extension bars, (Air gun, creeper, and helper, makes this job a lot easier.) Removal: With the car firmly on jack stands, and a board and jack under the transmission pan supporting the weight of the motor, I dropped the 3+3 large bolts for the subframe. This probably wasn't necessary, but it gave me more room to work. Avoid if your bolts are really rusted in. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, and take a picture of the steering knuckle position. After pulling the lines, I immediately placed them in a large ziplock bag, and zipped the bag, to avoid the ends getting all dirty. This helps catch most of the fluid as well. Then put a small hole in the bag to drain the fluid into a catch pan. Pushing the lines out of the way seemed to really help with removal. Yes the transmission mount does need to be unbolted and pushed all the way up. The old rack I pulled was labeled, "rebuilt for GM", and the car has only 47k miles. That makes two racks in 47k due to leaks. Prepping for the new rack: Great info in the video on measuring. Rather than using a tape measure, use a solid ruler or stick. Position the steering shaft so the bolt will go through the knuckle. Remove the plugs to install the one time seals. Also remove the plug in the bolt hole for the hose bolt. Cover the seals and bolt in masking tape to keep it clean while putting it in the car. Doing this in the driveway, I passed a rope through from the passenger side, and tied it to the new rack. This way my son could gently pull on the rope as I guided the rack in. It is tight, and turning it helps. Installation: Definitely put the hoses on first, and then the steering knuckle, before securing the rack. Not having the rack bolted in, gives more wiggle room. Great tip on using the Loctite on the knuckle bolt. Also don't forget to secure the oxygen sensor. It was easier for me to secure the oxygen sensor wires with a nylon zip tie. Also make sure the plastic clips on the lines are re-attached in the passenger wheel well. There are a couple of separator clips on the lines. After completing the installation, I refilled the reservoir and turned the wheel back and forth a few times with the car still jacked up. This seemed to help get some air out without starting the car and getting it totally cavitated.
I'm a new sub, been watching for the last 4 days, now my wife comes in to sit n watch with me.... yesterday, Super Bowl Sunday morning, we completed the rear brakes on her 96 Explorer... she was so proud, that she smiled n screamed " look I got my hands dirty"
One thing I have learned about owning a Jaguar, you must constantly fix something on them. When Ford owned the company, they got rid of many of the problems, like Lucas electronic connectors and devices, which failed repeatedly. Most repair shops won't touch them, so you are stuck doing the work yourself, or sell the car. However, I love the design of my 2005 XK-8 convertible so much, I'd hate to sell it. I am presently restoring a 75 Malibu, my very first car, and a 65 Mustang, so I guess I am a car guy, though I only work on my own vehicles. I have already restored my 65 M-151 military jeep. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative, especially what cars to avoid.
Nice seeing the evolution of the channel Eric. How you and the camera have become one overtime. Nice to into the way back machine and see how things have improved.
Precarious diy job even with two people without a shop lift. Lowering the subframe and keeping the car properly supported while doing a rack and pinion is really a balancing act. I speak from experience. Some jobs like this are best left to a shop similar to SMAR that can do an alignment after the parts are back in. Just more time/cost effective and much safer. This is an Excellent video showing what needs to be done. SG3
man brotha your videos have saved me so I don't gotta pay the outrageous shop fees bit if you were here in Canada I would even bring you everything I own so I could drive my vehicles again
Thank YOU for the wonderful and informative repair video! Your video is very helpful to those whom are otherwise intimidated by a repair job such as replacing a reck & pinion. Thank you for taking the time and care to be descriptive and paying so much attention to detail, thanks to you many can feel comfortable tackling this job. Kind regards!
Dude... You have grown so much as a trainer and videographer and a talent since then. If this was the 1st video of yours I watched, would not have subscribed.
Ive never let it run to bleed it, but had an Impala that wouldn't bleed. I always shut it off and let it sit, but your way worked on this thing. It was driving me nuts!
Very helpful video. I just put our car in the hands of a mechanic for rack and pinion problems, possibly. Hoping it's a bolt that's busted loose, of course, but if replacement is necessary, good to know how it goes, since it's a bit much for me to undertake, though your explanation was instructive and I learned how one is replaced. Thanks so much for posting this. You really did a good job showing how it's done with caveats. Bless you.
I have a 2008 Aura XR with 143k on it. LOVE IT!! The 3.6 does consume some oil but still has very good power. Did a 2.63 L2L rack 3 yrs ago and the car handles with the best of them! On the highway doing 76 @2k means 29mpg as well.
Awesome video...thanks for making it, made it easier to change out the faulty rack and pinion on my Aura. Right off the bat the pinch bolt on the steering shaft to rack knuckle rounded off adding some unexpected complexity to the job, bolt head extractor socket just ripped the head off, making it rounder. It's pretty impossible to get any power tools in there, working with the car on jack stands and lack of a full tool box doesn't help. In my late Dad's stuff, I finally found an old drill bit extension, a small arbor and a 3" cutting wheel and ground the rest of the bolt head off. Luckily the chamfer on the rack input shaft doesn't actually hold the knuckle on. So once the bolt pressure was released, I was able to pry the knuckle up and off. I ground a slot where the bolt head used to be and used an impact driver with a screwdriver bit. Every hit with the hammer turned the bolt a bit until it was loose enough the take the rest of the way out with a screwdriver. Getting the bolt to go back through the transmission mount was a bit of a pain too. The job would go much easier if Cardone replaced the bent tubing with 90 degree elbows. But hey, how often do you change a rack, hopefully only once for me...lol. i.imgur.com/dqaTTla.jpg i.imgur.com/pmWa6jc.jpg i.imgur.com/BgzsCqD.jpg i.imgur.com/pDG2Na3.jpg
Good idea writing the number on the rotor! I have had great luck with the GM procedure for bleeding power steering. The Chevy traverse, GMC Acadia are terrible for power steering noise if you don't follow the procedure.
+Jonathan Milbury The noise is the pump cavitating with entrained air. Its like ball bearings hitting the sides of the pump. Hopefully it doesn't get to the rack.
I know this video is old but I might be doing one of these on my 09 Aura soon so it this is very helpful. One comment however. Looks like guys that have done more than one of these have figured out that lowering the subframe (slowly) gives you about 3" more clearance making the removal and installation a lot easier. Looks like you did it the hard way and still managed to keep your cool
Thanks you for your video on this It save My hubby we have a 06 97x saab with the same steering line set up and he wasn't sure how those seals worked saved us
Great video Eric very informational, but a little to serious. I like your old just a real guy feel. You know a real Americana feel. Keep up the great work from a fellow up-stater.
I wasnt quite sure if i dared to like, since my like became the 666 one haha, I really enjoy your videos, i've watched both EricTheCarGuy and Chrisfix, they have more detailed videos, but since you're all alone and does a great job i really like you more. Your personality seems amazing, just a great guy i presume! ( I just watch these videos for fun, i enjoy learning new tricks and stuff since iam a mechanic aswell!) Cheers from Sweden! :)
Hey Eric how do you go about resetting the toe-in after a job like this? I have had great success using a simple method I learned from my grandfather in Russia. First, make sure the steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, and the vehicle is on a level surface. Just stretch two strings along each side of the car (I use kite string) from the rear wheels to the front at axle height. Next, measure the distance from the string to the tire sidewall at the front and rear of the front tires. The difference between the measurements is your toe-in at each front wheel. Adjust the tie rods so there is zero toe-in for FWD or about +1/8" toe-in for RWD. 15 minutes...job done! I have done this to dozens of cars, and have verified the accuracy of this method is an amazing 1/16" at a specialized tire alignment shop. I just reset the toe-in on the old MPV last night and it definitely improved the straight-line stability on the highway!
motoYam82 Really no kidding?! I always just run down the road to my dads shop and use his alignment equipment. I have use the string method on my ATV's but have never tried it on a car then checked its accuracy on an alignment machine. Sounds like a test :)
+South Main Auto Repair Actually that method works just as good an Laser Beam alignment machine. Some people just mount 12" L brackets straight onto the rim lug nut. Rotate it till its at 90 degrees front and rear from top dead center. The difference in the front and rear of the front tires is your toe. If you're really into accuracy. You can forgo the string. Just mount a laser pointer on the rear tire bracket. Then take some white flat plastic and glue a metal ruler to it and mount to front tire rim. Poor mans laser alignment machine. I did it once and then had it checked. It was spot on. The camber is the one you have to watch. You also need to know the factory specs before attempting this. Good Luck
Your a life saver! Never attempted to do this but videos like this make me feel confident and comfortable trying to tackle myself. Now I'm off to follow this and save myself some Mula, thanks a million!
@@danieleusebio7384 It's a pain in the a$$. Had to do it twice because the rebuilt unit blew apart. The second unit has been holding up for the last 2 years with no issues. If you got a weekend to mess around with this go for it, otherwise it may be worth paying someone to replace it.
man your videos are always a thumbs up for me. thanks for sharing your knowledge i have learned a lot watching your videos sorry i can't donate, I am poor, but if some day i come into some cash you will have your share i promise.
I did a Honda CR-V rack awhile back - bit of a pain to reach the brake line nuts and to wrestle the rack out of the car. I ratchet-strapped the steering wheel to the front seat frame to keep it from moving.
Yes,you should give it a wheel alignment after the rack has been replaced,I need to get one done on my Holden Commodore because while I didn't have the tie rod ends unbolted,the rack was unbolted when I replaced the headers in the car & it's as if the steering rack isn't central anymore. Note I rebuilt my own rack !
It's a pain in the a$$ to do laying on your driveway with only about 2' of clearance. Had to do it twice, because the more expensive, under warranty, unit failed. It can be done, but it's a lot of work in tight spots.
Geez dude talk about evolution of a channel/social casting personality . You were so stiff and lifeless in these old ones. Sometimes you sound almost sad. Glad to see you where youre at today!
Thank you Sir. I've got one of these wonderful Auras scheduled for a Rack Tomorrow. Looks Simple enough I ain't scared now lol. Happy Wrenchin Grease Monkeys from Western Pa.....
I love watching your videos. Lucky I found it, the rack and pinion on my G6 is going out and I am going to learn how to replace it for the first time and it uses the exact same rack and pinion as this aura so it should be very simple, besides using a jack instead of a lift. Thank you for the effort you put into these videos!
Lost count of how many racks I replaced back in the mid to late 80's on GM front drive cars. Huge recall issue for GM back then. Procedure a bit different from this. Symptom was loss of assist when cold, caused by internal seals leaking or grooves worn on internal valving. We were beating the book time by a good margin after a while figuring short cuts and didn't mind doing them at all.
Dude I can't stop looking at your head.LOL Just kidding enjoy your videos I have a 3 bay shop in N.J. and my wife also runs the shop.Have a great day keep up the good work
WELCOME BACK TO THE SOUTH MAIN AUTO CHANNEL. Serious business in the shop today. WHERE'S THE JEEP HAT!?!?!?! I always wondered if you had all your hair on the top.
Can you please do a rack and pinion troubleshooting video like how to know when your rack and pinion is bad. Neither side on mine was leaking and both sides have new inner and outer tie rods. Yesterday, I had the drivers side CV axle replaced and then this popping noise started from the right side. It is a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan. Everything relating to the front end suspension has been replaced. Such as Struts and mounts, cv axles. inner and outer tie rods, lower control arms, sway bar links sway bar bushings, engine mounts. Everything has been replaced except for the rack and pinion. I just think it odd that when the drivers side cv axle was replaced that all of the sudden there is this popping noise that was not there before. Please advise
Thank you great video I .. I was looking for a Chris fix video but yours is just as clear and easy to understand I also just learned I’m not about to do this myself without all of those tools from underneath the car so thank you that’s what I was trying to find out is this a do it myself or take it to my mechanic
Your videos have come a long way.. Your more personable now and explain the symptoms and your thought process, instead of just jumping in.. Keep up the good work.. Also wouldn't it have been a good idea to go ahead and flush the p/s before installing the new r/p? .. Perhaps you did and just edited it out of the video
Kirk S Yeah I am still "finding myself" in the video realm of things for sure :) Thanks. In this case the whole PS system is empty but other wise yes it is a good idea to flush it out for sure.
South Main Auto Repair I dunno about that initial comment Eric. Keep finding your way, sure, you're doing a great job. That said, the primary reason I subscribed and watch your videos is because you run a working shop and are showing us actual repairs on actual customer vehicles. That's it. I'd like to offer the suggestion of not straying too far from that with a lot of introductory material, lots of detailed theory, etc. as if we were in a classroom or something. There are other channels for that and I gotta tell you I always opt for your stuff over theirs. They also tend to do what I call "cheesy" (or "campy" or "funny bits" whatever you wanna call it) stuff, which you don't, which is good. Do what you'd like with your channel of course, but I'm interested in just seeing you go about your job, doing what you do in your shop. That's the model you began with and that got me (and likely others) on board in the first place. That and you actually answer viewers questions, which is crazy good. Anyway FWIW. Thanks!
I appreciate the input sir and will consider it all on my YT journey :) I try to keep it as real as I can with the occasional funny but that is just who I am. I try to just do my repairs and catch a few on camera and just be me :)
KICK ASS VIDEO! You should make a dvd series! You are awesome at explaining and great angles on your camera. So I just bought a 2009 Saturn Outlook XE which I love so far. I took it for alignment and sure enough Sears told me that I need to replace the rack and pinion. They said that labor alone is $600... hmmmmm... so while I need this done because it is our family car, I am also not afraid of tools since I used to fix naval aircraft (which by the way is like oranges and cupcakes as similar to car mechanics, LOL!) but that was like in the 90s! Anyways I seen about three videos and then I just finished this one. I went from saying fuck it I just going to credit card this thing to... hmmmmm, Im going to check how much are the parts, this does not look that hard after you did. Mainly your very down-to-earth simple explanation gave me lots of confidence that I can knock this out by myself. Before I saw this video I thought replacing a rack and pinion was wizardry... now I am like: yep I can do this on sunday morning. The Sears technician wrote: UNABLE TO ALING. MOVEMENT FROM P/S RACK BUSHINGS AND L/F INNER TIE ROD. P/S RACK LEAKING SUGG. GENERAL REPAIR SHOP OR DEALER. R/F STRUT LEAKING. So aside from rack and pinion does this means I have to change something else? Tomorrow I will do a visual inspection and see how much alike my Saturn Outlook looks to what you did in this car... of course it wont be the same but I will check that I cant match as much as possible to your video. If you can give me any recommendation or advice I would greatly appreciate it. Right now I am looking at getting the rack and pinion parts... should I get anything else after reading the technician notes?
I was one of the lucky ones that rode the G.M. gravy train in the 80's & 90's for no p/s assist when cold. I still remember the part # for the seal kit 26010340
Just watched this video from years ago , Did notice the jacking point arrow on sill ( but the ramp leg in different place - looks like the sill is crushed lol )
Haha, this make me chuckle. Eric, your carpet don’t match your curtains 😂 The grey has evened up over the years. Much more fluid nowadays with the presenting skills 👍
Thank you! I'm having trouble getting my big fat hand inside by the rack and pinion (um.. thing) where the steering pressure hose goes in. I have to replace that hose. I've pulled the old one out, but I'm having trouble getting the new one situated in just the right position. After watching your video, I'm thinking that it might be worth it to disconnect the rack and pinion from the tire, so that there would be a little 'play'/room to get the power steering hose in..... Do you think that would be wise?
Hello, I have a 2007 Saturn Aura XE with 3.5L engine. I suspect the rack on my car may be going bad. Is there a way to know or find out / diagnose DIY without taking it to a shop first. The car had issues with the intermediate steering shaft after about 10,000 miles. Saturn dealer "repaired" it by greasing it. Several months later it starting having same issues. Saturn dealer replaced the shaft under warranty. Saturn of course is long gone and the car is out of warranty. It only has 61,000 miles on it. The front end doesn't seem right at times. The power steering pump went out a year ago and the shop that replaced the pump said that the rack might be going bad and may have caused the pump to fail. Any thoughts or advice would be great. I've enjoyed the car and this is the only issue I've had except a recall which was taken care of and the front door speakers cut out but cut back in when it gets hot. I assume because of a bad wiring harness connector. Thank You
Eric need some advice on fixing a corroded and leaking steering rack transfer line. Car is a 2010 Cadillac CTS-4 3.0 Litre AWD. GM lists special order P/N 19177058 as a kit with lines and o-rings. No parts exist in any GM warehouse or stock location. The tubes are 6mm steel lines using a saginaw flare, o-ring and a retainer clip. I did investigate fabricating a new line but cannot find any flaring tools for saginaw flares for 6mm tubing, although these flaring tools exist for 1/4 inch tubing which is close in size. Checked Cardone and ATSCO and neither list a set of replacement tubes for this application. I was able to get P/N 19177057 tubing kit which is not a drop in fit, but has the correct flared ends and o-rings. The plan looks to be rework the '057 tubing set to fit the AWD sterring rack. Can you offer a better solution ? Would 1/4 inch lines flared with saginaw flares fit into the fittings on the ram and steering control valve ?
By the way a friend of of mines , has the same vehicle. What happened is he complained about the fob not controlling the doors. I put the Verus on it and I got about 18 codes if I am not mistaken. Tpms , anti theft , fob no programmed etc. I try to get information , and got a no communication display. I told him most likely the computer that controls most of the items is bad. I do not have access to any of the repair sites like Mitchell 1 , or AllData, cause there about $170.00 a month. Just wanted to know your opinion on it. Thanks.
***** I wouldn't deam any modules bad till I did some testing. You have to have a working knowledge of com systems to diagnose them. Have you ever fixed one before?
***** what if it was an open in the power? i don't think you can have an open in the ground since the modules are all given a temp ground to communicate.
Yes my own module once..that turned out to be a solder joint. But nothing with as many symptoms as this car. I looked up the vehicle in forums , and it appears that the vehicle model in question has been giving many owners lots of grief with multiple symptoms as well . In lots of the conversation a Saturn representative gets involved and let's the owner know to notify them so they can help the person with the problem. There is no recalls for the problem that we know of.
Hey Eric another great video, I have a question for you as this seemed like you hadn’t done a lot of these on this vehicle, I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu max pts which is the same as this Aura my question is would you do it the same Way??? I’ve seen people lower the subframe instead but those also say there the same vehicle but I found out there is some differences as I have the same 1 time use seals and not the 18mm Crowfoot needed to SEPERATE fluid lines!! I waited 4 days to do the job waiting for the crowfoot 18mm to come to find out it wasn’t needed so I wanted to do it right and curious should I loosen the trans mounts like your video or subframe??? Thanks Eric keep up the amazing tutorials!!! Update: so going with dropping the sub frame was a bad idea and one of the sub frame bolt spun so I went with your idea and loosen the transmission and everything worked flawlessly except when I would accelerate there would be a vibration 24 hours later the car caught fire just now fire coming from right in the middle so I don’t know if one of the lines or something was rubbing but now I don’t have a vehicle anymore!! I will update on what happened but your method worked great other than the car catching fire 24 hours later! Update:: BECAREFUL NOT TO MOVE THE POWER STEERING LINES AND MAKE SURE THERE NOT LAYING ON THE EXHAUST!! Fire fire fire!!!
Thanks for the video, I wouldn't have been able to complete the job so quickly without it and I'm 70years!
An early "dry" Eric video... still good, like your new stuff with your fun commentary.
Yeah, I was shocked by how formal he sounded until I checked the date hahaha!
An "Instructional video "....
Great video, thank you. Still amazes me how much you've come out of your shell since these earlier videos. Not one "uggs dugga", no "thunder", and no brake clean! I think the conservative beginnings helped you evolve into the entertaining yet professional person we see in your current videos. Great job, keep up the good work, and bless you and your family. 😀
Thanks for the video! Showed me exactly what I was getting into, and I did my daughters car earlier today. Took about 6hrs without a lift. A few things for others doing this job.
Prep, most of what you'll need:
2-3 pints of PS fluid, tie-rod ends (might as well), large ziplock bag, anti-seize, oil catch pan, quality rebuilt rack(eg: cardone), 8ft rope, masking tape, ruler/stick, marker, blue locktite.
solid jack stands, 21mm socket, 18mm box wrench, 18mm deep socket, 10, 11,12 mm upholstery tool, long screwdriver/pry bar, vice grips, large hammer/sledge. flex head ratchet, wobble socket extension bars, (Air gun, creeper, and helper, makes this job a lot easier.)
Removal:
With the car firmly on jack stands, and a board and jack under the transmission pan supporting the weight of the motor, I dropped the 3+3 large bolts for the subframe. This probably wasn't necessary, but it gave me more room to work. Avoid if your bolts are really rusted in. Make sure the steering wheel is centered, and take a picture of the steering knuckle position. After pulling the lines, I immediately placed them in a large ziplock bag, and zipped the bag, to avoid the ends getting all dirty. This helps catch most of the fluid as well. Then put a small hole in the bag to drain the fluid into a catch pan. Pushing the lines out of the way seemed to really help with removal. Yes the transmission mount does need to be unbolted and pushed all the way up. The old rack I pulled was labeled, "rebuilt for GM", and the car has only 47k miles. That makes two racks in 47k due to leaks.
Prepping for the new rack:
Great info in the video on measuring. Rather than using a tape measure, use a solid ruler or stick. Position the steering shaft so the bolt will go through the knuckle. Remove the plugs to install the one time seals. Also remove the plug in the bolt hole for the hose bolt. Cover the seals and bolt in masking tape to keep it clean while putting it in the car. Doing this in the driveway, I passed a rope through from the passenger side, and tied it to the new rack. This way my son could gently pull on the rope as I guided the rack in. It is tight, and turning it helps.
Installation:
Definitely put the hoses on first, and then the steering knuckle, before securing the rack. Not having the rack bolted in, gives more wiggle room. Great tip on using the Loctite on the knuckle bolt. Also don't forget to secure the oxygen sensor. It was easier for me to secure the oxygen sensor wires with a nylon zip tie. Also make sure the plastic clips on the lines are re-attached in the passenger wheel well. There are a couple of separator clips on the lines. After completing the installation, I refilled the reservoir and turned the wheel back and forth a few times with the car still jacked up. This seemed to help get some air out without starting the car and getting it totally cavitated.
David Mitchell try it with 2 spinal fractures and multiple organ failure bet it takes weeks.
I'm a new sub, been watching for the last 4 days, now my wife comes in to sit n watch with me.... yesterday, Super Bowl Sunday morning, we completed the rear brakes on her 96 Explorer...
she was so proud, that she smiled n screamed " look I got my hands dirty"
In Eric's early videos it helps if you dub in your own "give it full beans"s, "come on little fella"s, and "what in the thunder"s.
One thing I have learned about owning a Jaguar, you must constantly fix something on them. When Ford owned the company, they got rid of many of the problems, like Lucas electronic connectors and devices, which failed repeatedly. Most repair shops won't touch them, so you are stuck doing the work yourself, or sell the car. However, I love the design of my 2005 XK-8 convertible so much, I'd hate to sell it. I am presently restoring a 75 Malibu, my very first car, and a 65 Mustang, so I guess I am a car guy, though I only work on my own vehicles. I have already restored my 65 M-151 military jeep. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative, especially what cars to avoid.
This is a completely different Eric. No hat, very clinical and all business. Still watched it all but very interesting to see how you have evolved.
The video was very educational and easy to follow. You made it simple to follow the steps. Great Job
Nice seeing the evolution of the channel Eric. How you and the camera have become one overtime. Nice to into the way back machine and see how things have improved.
Precarious diy job even with two people without a shop lift. Lowering the subframe and keeping the car properly supported
while doing a rack and pinion is really a balancing act. I speak from experience. Some jobs like this are best left to a shop similar to SMAR that can do an alignment after the parts are back in. Just more time/cost effective and much safer. This is an Excellent video showing what needs to be done. SG3
man brotha your videos have saved me so I don't gotta pay the outrageous shop fees bit if you were here in Canada I would even bring you everything I own so I could drive my vehicles again
I’m doing a rack and pinion job right now, my god am I so happy that I stumble onto your video! Thank you Eric!
Have to say this is a really good video. Can see everything clearly and can understand everything u r talking about. 👍 well done sir
Thank YOU for the wonderful and informative repair video! Your video is very helpful to those whom are otherwise intimidated by a repair job such as replacing a reck & pinion. Thank you for taking the time and care to be descriptive and paying so much attention to detail, thanks to you many can feel comfortable tackling this job. Kind regards!
+E Leslie Glad you liked it
Dude... You have grown so much as a trainer and videographer and a talent since then. If this was the 1st video of yours I watched, would not have subscribed.
Ive never let it run to bleed it, but had an Impala that wouldn't bleed. I always shut it off and let it sit, but your way worked on this thing. It was driving me nuts!
Very helpful video. I just put our car in the hands of a mechanic for rack and pinion problems, possibly. Hoping it's a bolt that's busted loose, of course, but if replacement is necessary, good to know how it goes, since it's a bit much for me to undertake, though your explanation was instructive and I learned how one is replaced. Thanks so much for posting this. You really did a good job showing how it's done with caveats. Bless you.
I like the tip on measuring it and setting it up before installing it. Thanks
***** No problem.
Who would give Eric a thumbs down ? This some good stuff this man gives ppl for free!!
I have a 2008 Aura XR with 143k on it. LOVE IT!! The 3.6 does consume some oil but still has very good power. Did a 2.63 L2L rack 3 yrs ago and the car handles with the best of them! On the highway doing 76 @2k means 29mpg as well.
Thank you very much. I appreciate the attention to detail, and you’re a very good teacher.
Awesome video...thanks for making it, made it easier to change out the faulty rack and pinion on my Aura. Right off the bat the pinch bolt on the steering shaft to rack knuckle rounded off adding some unexpected complexity to the job, bolt head extractor socket just ripped the head off, making it rounder. It's pretty impossible to get any power tools in there, working with the car on jack stands and lack of a full tool box doesn't help. In my late Dad's stuff, I finally found an old drill bit extension, a small arbor and a 3" cutting wheel and ground the rest of the bolt head off. Luckily the chamfer on the rack input shaft doesn't actually hold the knuckle on. So once the bolt pressure was released, I was able to pry the knuckle up and off. I ground a slot where the bolt head used to be and used an impact driver with a screwdriver bit. Every hit with the hammer turned the bolt a bit until it was loose enough the take the rest of the way out with a screwdriver. Getting the bolt to go back through the transmission mount was a bit of a pain too.
The job would go much easier if Cardone replaced the bent tubing with 90 degree elbows. But hey, how often do you change a rack, hopefully only once for me...lol.
i.imgur.com/dqaTTla.jpg
i.imgur.com/pmWa6jc.jpg
i.imgur.com/BgzsCqD.jpg
i.imgur.com/pDG2Na3.jpg
Just great...replaced rack and pinion...next day...power steering pressure line springs a leak...
I love the timing of "an extra set of hands would be kinda useful" as your other mechanic walks through the door and off into the other bay.
Great video, it really helped me to remove my rack and pinion and easy to reinstall it, thank you very much for sharing your video
Good idea writing the number on the rotor! I have had great luck with the GM procedure for bleeding power steering. The Chevy traverse, GMC Acadia are terrible for power steering noise if you don't follow the procedure.
Jonathan Milbury Oh no kidding I will pay attention to that thanks
+Jonathan Milbury The noise is the pump cavitating with entrained air. Its like ball bearings hitting the sides of the pump. Hopefully it doesn't get to the rack.
I know this video is old but I might be doing one of these on my 09 Aura soon so it this is very helpful. One comment however. Looks like guys that have done more than one of these have figured out that lowering the subframe (slowly) gives you about 3" more clearance making the removal and installation a lot easier. Looks like you did it the hard way and still managed to keep your cool
Whoa! Everything is so prim and proper and clean!
Excellent presentation, clear explanation of procedure.
great vid. i appreciate the way you explain step by step in great detail. thanks.
Best video I've seen yet great job,
Wahoo! Good old brake cleaner cleaned back then too! Just reviewing the older editions of SMA.
+Jim Maas Haha that's right :)
Thanks you for your video on this It save My hubby we have a 06 97x saab with the same steering line set up and he wasn't sure how those seals worked saved us
Great video Eric very informational, but a little to serious. I like your old just a real guy feel. You know a real Americana feel. Keep up the great work from a fellow up-stater.
Nice video Eric O , as always, keep em coming!!☺
great video you explained things very well
I wasnt quite sure if i dared to like, since my like became the 666 one haha, I really enjoy your videos, i've watched both EricTheCarGuy and Chrisfix, they have more detailed videos, but since you're all alone and does a great job i really like you more. Your personality seems amazing, just a great guy i presume! ( I just watch these videos for fun, i enjoy learning new tricks and stuff since iam a mechanic aswell!) Cheers from Sweden! :)
I have to do this today and I thank you immensly for this informative demonstration!
Hey Eric how do you go about resetting the toe-in after a job like this? I have had great success using a simple method I learned from my grandfather in Russia. First, make sure the steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, and the vehicle is on a level surface. Just stretch two strings along each side of the car (I use kite string) from the rear wheels to the front at axle height. Next, measure the distance from the string to the tire sidewall at the front and rear of the front tires. The difference between the measurements is your toe-in at each front wheel. Adjust the tie rods so there is zero toe-in for FWD or about +1/8" toe-in for RWD. 15 minutes...job done! I have done this to dozens of cars, and have verified the accuracy of this method is an amazing 1/16" at a specialized tire alignment shop. I just reset the toe-in on the old MPV last night and it definitely improved the straight-line stability on the highway!
motoYam82 Really no kidding?! I always just run down the road to my dads shop and use his alignment equipment. I have use the string method on my ATV's but have never tried it on a car then checked its accuracy on an alignment machine. Sounds like a test :)
+South Main Auto Repair Actually that method works just as good an Laser Beam alignment machine. Some people just mount 12" L brackets straight onto the rim lug nut. Rotate it till its at 90 degrees front and rear from top dead center. The difference in the front and rear of the front tires is your toe.
If you're really into accuracy. You can forgo the string. Just mount a laser pointer on the rear tire bracket. Then take some white flat plastic and glue a metal ruler to it and mount to front tire rim. Poor mans laser alignment machine. I did it once and then had it checked. It was spot on. The camber is the one you have to watch. You also need to know the factory specs before attempting this.
Good Luck
Your a life saver! Never attempted to do this but videos like this make me feel confident and comfortable trying to tackle myself. Now I'm off to follow this and save myself some Mula, thanks a million!
How did it go ?
@@danieleusebio7384 It's a pain in the a$$. Had to do it twice because the rebuilt unit blew apart. The second unit has been holding up for the last 2 years with no issues. If you got a weekend to mess around with this go for it, otherwise it may be worth paying someone to replace it.
VERY GOOD DETAILED REPLACEMENT! Thankyou!
I pulled mine, 99 4Runner, and had it rebuilt. Not a bad job.
Thanks for the video, I'm taking my car to the shop!
So formal........ what a difference 4 years make.
man your videos are always a thumbs up for me. thanks for sharing your knowledge i have learned a lot watching your videos sorry i can't donate, I am poor, but if some day i come into some cash you will have your share i promise.
I love your tools. I learned a lot from you buddy good job.
Thank you very much for responding. Great videos. Keep up the great work
T A. S. YW
Good job, it would be great to have such a wonderful Maintenance master
I did a Honda CR-V rack awhile back - bit of a pain to reach the brake line nuts and to wrestle the rack out of the car. I ratchet-strapped the steering wheel to the front seat frame to keep it from moving.
Yes,you should give it a wheel alignment after the rack has been replaced,I need to get one done on my Holden Commodore because while I didn't have the tie rod ends unbolted,the rack was unbolted when I replaced the headers in the car & it's as if the steering rack isn't central anymore.
Note I rebuilt my own rack !
Great video, I would love to attempt it but I don’t have the equipment to work underneath it. I did learn a lot though thank you.
It's a pain in the a$$ to do laying on your driveway with only about 2' of clearance. Had to do it twice, because the more expensive, under warranty, unit failed. It can be done, but it's a lot of work in tight spots.
Geez dude talk about evolution of a channel/social casting personality . You were so stiff and lifeless in these old ones. Sometimes you sound almost sad. Glad to see you where youre at today!
So weird watching one of your videos and not seeing you wear a hat haha.
Agreed, it's like, who's this old white haired geezer that works in Eric's shop???
Maybe His wife hide it so He has to buy a new one Lol !
Six years from now, in 2021, he will still be doing these videos, only better.
Thank you Sir. I've got one of these wonderful Auras scheduled for a Rack Tomorrow. Looks Simple enough I ain't scared now lol. Happy Wrenchin Grease Monkeys from Western Pa.....
I love watching your videos. Lucky I found it, the rack and pinion on my G6 is going out and I am going to learn how to replace it for the first time and it uses the exact same rack and pinion as this aura so it should be very simple, besides using a jack instead of a lift. Thank you for the effort you put into these videos!
Great job Eric!
Thanks Stanley Waggoner
I am glad everything is going to EPS now. Much easier to diag. and no mess haha
Kurt Kennedy Yeah that is for sure... so more leaks
Oh goodie. I went through 3 on my 92 Taurus.
+NewsLynne Changed a few of those in my time
great video. just did this job and worked perfectly.
baynes72 Great glad it helped :)
Lost count of how many racks I replaced back in the mid to late 80's on GM front drive cars. Huge recall issue for GM back then. Procedure a bit different from this. Symptom was loss of assist when cold, caused by internal seals leaking or grooves worn on internal valving. We were beating the book time by a good margin after a while figuring short cuts and didn't mind doing them at all.
Great video keep up the great content
Dude I can't stop looking at your head.LOL Just kidding enjoy your videos I have a 3 bay shop in N.J. and my wife also runs the shop.Have a great day keep up the good work
WELCOME BACK TO THE SOUTH MAIN AUTO CHANNEL. Serious business in the shop today. WHERE'S THE JEEP HAT!?!?!?! I always wondered if you had all your hair on the top.
Thanks a great str8 to the point video
YW Thanks 4 watching :)
Hi great job of explaining I'm going to do the same job soon you help me so much thank you
I usually drop the rear of the cradle. (Depending on vehicle condition due to salt) and it gives just a little extra room.
Can you please do a rack and pinion troubleshooting video like how to know when your rack and pinion is bad. Neither side on mine was leaking and both sides have new inner and outer tie rods. Yesterday, I had the drivers side CV axle replaced and then this popping noise started from the right side. It is a 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan. Everything relating to the front end suspension has been replaced. Such as Struts and mounts, cv axles. inner and outer tie rods, lower control arms, sway bar links sway bar bushings, engine mounts. Everything has been replaced except for the rack and pinion. I just think it odd that when the drivers side cv axle was replaced that all of the sudden there is this popping noise that was not there before. Please advise
It's bad when you.have to manually turn the wheel to the starting position and while driving the car feels.stiffs
man your so serious in your earlier videos compared to your newer videos lol
Great video thank you. Doing my right now.
Thanks for the Video the darn 09 with the 3.6 is a lil different was not easy the trans mount has an extra bolt
Oh WOW. I definitely like your new stuff. LOL the straight tie 80 y/o professor doesn't work LOL glad you figured that out. LOL
I think his approach here is very direct, informative and good. We need not always be amused at all times...
Thank you great video I .. I was looking for a Chris fix video but yours is just as clear and easy to understand I also just learned I’m not about to do this myself without all of those tools from underneath the car so thank you that’s what I was trying to find out is this a do it myself or take it to my mechanic
How deep you inserted the two seals? I am replacing the high pressure power steering line and the side without the line keeps popping out.
Your videos have come a long way.. Your more personable now and explain the symptoms and your thought process, instead of just jumping in.. Keep up the good work.. Also wouldn't it have been a good idea to go ahead and flush the p/s before installing the new r/p? .. Perhaps you did and just edited it out of the video
Kirk S Yeah I am still "finding myself" in the video realm of things for sure :) Thanks. In this case the whole PS system is empty but other wise yes it is a good idea to flush it out for sure.
South Main Auto Repair I dunno about that initial comment Eric. Keep finding your way, sure, you're doing a great job. That said, the primary reason I subscribed and watch your videos is because you run a working shop and are showing us actual repairs on actual customer vehicles. That's it. I'd like to offer the suggestion of not straying too far from that with a lot of introductory material, lots of detailed theory, etc. as if we were in a classroom or something. There are other channels for that and I gotta tell you I always opt for your stuff over theirs. They also tend to do what I call "cheesy" (or "campy" or "funny bits" whatever you wanna call it) stuff, which you don't, which is good. Do what you'd like with your channel of course, but I'm interested in just seeing you go about your job, doing what you do in your shop. That's the model you began with and that got me (and likely others) on board in the first place. That and you actually answer viewers questions, which is crazy good. Anyway FWIW. Thanks!
I appreciate the input sir and will consider it all on my YT journey :) I try to keep it as real as I can with the occasional funny but that is just who I am. I try to just do my repairs and catch a few on camera and just be me :)
mostly what we normal people look for is how to do a replacement and steps with normal tools and jacks on the floor.
Thank you for this video.
Nice - SAFETY GLASSES, BRO, LOOKING KOOOL 👍 👏 😎🤓!!
I agree about the hat! You now look like an upside down chocolate covered vanilla icecream! Lol! Great work!
Your gray hair looks so cool...!!!
Great video!
KICK ASS VIDEO! You should make a dvd series! You are awesome at explaining and great angles on your camera.
So I just bought a 2009 Saturn Outlook XE which I love so far. I took it for alignment and sure enough Sears told me that I need to replace the rack and pinion. They said that labor alone is $600... hmmmmm... so while I need this done because it is our family car, I am also not afraid of tools since I used to fix naval aircraft (which by the way is like oranges and cupcakes as similar to car mechanics, LOL!) but that was like in the 90s!
Anyways I seen about three videos and then I just finished this one. I went from saying fuck it I just going to credit card this thing to... hmmmmm, Im going to check how much are the parts, this does not look that hard after you did. Mainly your very down-to-earth simple explanation gave me lots of confidence that I can knock this out by myself. Before I saw this video I thought replacing a rack and pinion was wizardry... now I am like: yep I can do this on sunday morning.
The Sears technician wrote: UNABLE TO ALING. MOVEMENT FROM P/S RACK BUSHINGS AND L/F INNER TIE ROD. P/S RACK LEAKING SUGG. GENERAL REPAIR SHOP OR DEALER. R/F STRUT LEAKING.
So aside from rack and pinion does this means I have to change something else?
Tomorrow I will do a visual inspection and see how much alike my Saturn Outlook looks to what you did in this car... of course it wont be the same but I will check that I cant match as much as possible to your video.
If you can give me any recommendation or advice I would greatly appreciate it. Right now I am looking at getting the rack and pinion parts... should I get anything else after reading the technician notes?
+Pocho Nieves looks like you may need also a new tie rod end and also a new right front strut
great video. Thanks 👍
I was one of the lucky ones that rode the G.M. gravy train in the 80's & 90's for no p/s assist when cold. I still remember the part # for the seal kit 26010340
Just watched this video from years ago , Did notice the jacking point arrow on sill ( but the ramp leg in different place - looks like the sill is crushed lol )
Haha, this make me chuckle. Eric, your carpet don’t match your curtains 😂
The grey has evened up over the years.
Much more fluid nowadays with the presenting skills 👍
Thank you!
I'm having trouble getting my big fat hand inside by the rack and pinion (um.. thing) where the steering pressure hose goes in. I have to replace that hose. I've pulled the old one out, but I'm having trouble getting the new one situated in just the right position. After watching your video, I'm thinking that it might be worth it to disconnect the rack and pinion from the tire, so that there would be a little 'play'/room to get the power steering hose in..... Do you think that would be wise?
Great video and super thorough. Anyone know if the vue and aura follow the same procedure?
great video...very professional.
Lol...you can tell when a mechanic has a happy wife...hes wearing gloves
damn eric...your early videos sure were monotone and educatioinal!!! wow !!! ha ha ha ha ha
Thanks for the video.
Hello, I have a 2007 Saturn Aura XE with 3.5L engine. I suspect the rack on my car may be going bad.
Is there a way to know or find out / diagnose DIY without taking it to a shop first. The car had issues
with the intermediate steering shaft after about 10,000 miles. Saturn dealer "repaired" it by greasing it.
Several months later it starting having same issues. Saturn dealer replaced the shaft under warranty.
Saturn of course is long gone and the car is out of warranty. It only has 61,000 miles on it. The front
end doesn't seem right at times. The power steering pump went out a year ago and the shop that
replaced the pump said that the rack might be going bad and may have caused the pump to fail.
Any thoughts or advice would be great. I've enjoyed the car and this is the only issue I've had except
a recall which was taken care of and the front door speakers cut out but cut back in when it gets hot.
I assume because of a bad wiring harness connector. Thank You
Eric need some advice on fixing a corroded and leaking steering rack transfer line. Car is a 2010 Cadillac CTS-4 3.0 Litre AWD. GM lists special order P/N 19177058 as a kit with lines and o-rings. No parts exist in any GM warehouse or stock location. The tubes are 6mm steel lines using a saginaw flare, o-ring and a retainer clip. I did investigate fabricating a new line but cannot find any flaring tools for saginaw flares for 6mm tubing, although these flaring tools exist for 1/4 inch tubing which is close in size. Checked Cardone and ATSCO and neither list a set of replacement tubes for this application. I was able to get P/N 19177057 tubing kit which is not a drop in fit, but has the correct flared ends and o-rings. The plan looks to be rework the '057 tubing set to fit the AWD sterring rack. Can you offer a better solution ? Would 1/4 inch lines flared with saginaw flares fit into the fittings on the ram and steering control valve ?
What was wrong with the old one? was it leaking? Great video.
Good job 👍🏿
Great job
your to good to give thumbs down keep up the good work
What was the symptom that led to the rack replacement?
Looks like it was leaking. 3:00
By the way a friend of of mines , has the same vehicle. What happened is he complained about the fob not controlling the doors. I put the Verus on it and I got about 18 codes if I am not mistaken. Tpms , anti theft , fob no programmed etc. I try to get information , and got a no communication display. I told him most likely the computer that controls most of the items is bad. I do not have access to any of the repair sites like Mitchell 1 , or AllData, cause there about $170.00 a month. Just wanted to know your opinion on it. Thanks.
***** I wouldn't deam any modules bad till I did some testing. You have to have a working knowledge of com systems to diagnose them. Have you ever fixed one before?
***** what if it was an open in the power? i don't think you can have an open in the ground since the modules are all given a temp ground to communicate.
Yes my own module once..that turned out to be a solder joint. But nothing with as many symptoms as this car. I looked up the vehicle in forums , and it appears that the vehicle model in question has been giving many owners lots of grief with multiple symptoms as well . In lots of the conversation a Saturn representative gets involved and let's the owner know to notify them so they can help the person with the problem. There is no recalls for the problem that we know of.
Yes checked powers and grounds . All had power. I believe it is a bad ECM..
Hey Eric another great video, I have a question for you as this seemed like you hadn’t done a lot of these on this vehicle, I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu max pts which is the same as this Aura my question is would you do it the same Way??? I’ve seen people lower the subframe instead but those also say there the same vehicle but I found out there is some differences as I have the same 1 time use seals and not the 18mm Crowfoot needed to SEPERATE fluid lines!! I waited 4 days to do the job waiting for the crowfoot 18mm to come to find out it wasn’t needed so I wanted to do it right and curious should I loosen the trans mounts like your video or subframe??? Thanks Eric keep up the amazing tutorials!!!
Update: so going with dropping the sub frame was a bad idea and one of the sub frame bolt spun so I went with your idea and loosen the transmission and everything worked flawlessly except when I would accelerate there would be a vibration 24 hours later the car caught fire just now fire coming from right in the middle so I don’t know if one of the lines or something was rubbing but now I don’t have a vehicle anymore!! I will update on what happened but your method worked great other than the car catching fire 24 hours later!
Update:: BECAREFUL NOT TO MOVE THE POWER STEERING LINES AND MAKE SURE THERE NOT LAYING ON THE EXHAUST!! Fire fire fire!!!
Welcome to South Main Auto, I'm professor Eric, I'm going to show you how to change a steering rack today. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I love the videos, it's amazing how far they've come. I've watched most of them, got a way to go. Awesome job