All Grain Whisky Wash : Minimal Gear
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- Опубліковано 30 сер 2017
- FINALLY a "single malt". This is a huge part of why I got into this hobby, and I'm finally giving it a crack.
I will be making this whisky with minimal gear. Partially because my homebrew kit is in pieces, but also to give people an idea of how simple all grain can be.
It's not the optimal process, but it will get the job done.
So this "scotch recipe" is,
50L
10kg base malt
2kg cherry smoked
1kg manuka
fermented with a Belgian ale yeast.
I messed up and had to add DME LME (both light and unhoped) and some sugar to reach 1.061.
Many thanks to the guys at allgrain.co.nz! You ROCK!
allgrain.co.nz/
/ allgrainnz
BIAB Bag
amzn.to/2wVN5YR
Thermometer
amzn.to/2wW6r0b
Refractometer
amzn.to/2vNPsYI
Hydrometer
amzn.to/2vNJsPx - Навчання та стиль
I did my first all grain today, and I used a ton of the info you’ve given. Everything seems great so far! Thanks for all the great videos!
Man this is exactly why I've been looking into home distilling too--my malt journey has brought me to wanting to produce my own single malt at home! Pumped to watch you go through this process as I start to plan my own, thanks for the great content.
+bbroogs now that sounds familiar! Haha. Thats cool dude! Best of luck getting into it. Keep us posted on how you are doing, and sing out if you want any help :)
Not a bad start at all. As you point out, there is room for improvement, but overall a good start. The water to grain ratio should be between 2.5 to 3 liters per kilo of grain. This is the optimum for the enzymes to convert the starches. Now, you say that 62° C is on the low side, but that is not necessarily true. At those temps you have a good environment for beta amylase enzymes, which creates sugar chains that the yeast can easily eat and convert to alcohol (among other things). If you go above 65° C the beta amylase stops working after a bit and the alpha amylase enzymes, which creates longer sugar chains that the yeast can't easily eat and convert, thus leaving residual sweetness in the wash, but also more flavour.
I usually advise against squeezing the grain bag in that manner because it causes the tannins in the grain to be released and create an off flavour. Instead raise the bag and gently rest it on a strainer before you sparge with water around 75-77° C. You don't want your sparge water to be above 78° C because that will also release tannins. To help prevent the release of tannins you can also make sure that the pH of your sparge water is less than 7.0. If your pH is higher it can be helped with just a small amount of Lactic Acid. Let the grain bed drain off after sparge, and you will have an even cleaner wort to ferment. Rehydrating the yeast like that is very good to see. You should also look into harvesting the yeast post fermentation, because dried yeast strains tend to just get better after the initial pitch. Then you have free yeast for fermentation. I usually keep my harvested yeast in mason jars and other suitable containers of glass with a tight seal.
Thanks for the good documentation of your process, and happy brewing! Cheers from Norway!
What an awesome comment! Very helpful! Do you have a UA-cam channel? Great video Jesse ! (As always) I'm working my way through them all 😁
I had to mention that a-amylase doesn't create long chain sugars, it hydrolyses starches and glycogens into glucose and a-maltose. Whereas B-amylase converts starches into B-maltose. Yeast can ferment glucose, and it releases maltase enzymes to break both types of maltose down into glucose, since both types of maltose are simply 2 glucose molecules chained together with differing bonds (a-1-4 vs a-1-6).
Squeezing grains does not extract tannins, that is a myth. Tannin extraction is a function of chemistry, not mechanical action.
@@Fyrwulf Have you ever squeezed a hot wet tea bag.
@@MegaDavyk you mean that squeezing actually produces something in the bag, that wasn't there? :)
Still it and play it by ear as you do Jessie! That’s the beauty of this craft!
My favorite video of his. Makes me remember we all start somewhere.
Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
You have inspired me i am going to try an all grain mix.
Grains are special b, amber malt, and pilsner malt. Hopefully i will have something special for Christmas. The thought of doing my preferred bourbon style still scares me but viewing this method i think i can get it to work. Thank you for the videos
I jump in the Craft a few months ago, I love it! I just made my first Rye whisky and it's the BOMB! family and friends are loving it!
Ayyyyyeeeeeee, Awesome man! Gad it turned out well.
Having a difficulty where I am in Jamaica getting yeast nutrient we have found that a good dose of blackstrap molasses adds all the vitamins and Trace elements the yeast need. Small amount of Epsom salt as well
You got a wonderful channel. It is always interesting to watch.
love the videos. as for me, you can never go wrong with an all grain recipe. personally, i use primarily local corn and just a touch of malted barley (for the enzymes). as for yeast, i use D.A.D.Y. i add no processed sugar. the end result is some extremely smooth sippin" whiskey.
+throttlejockey34 nice, that was the plan for this...the all grain part anyway....it didn't go down quite like that hahaha
Thanks man ! This video make me feel a lot les confused. Now I'm ready to jump in to the mash! Thanks again ! Single Malt from Denmark coming up
hey man awesome vid! i'm an intermediate homebrewer and want to try distilliation. i know at the overseas biab is a common method for beer brewing but i can't help but say going the old school way with mashing in the brewpot with a carboard jacket on and low flame and then throwing the malts in a double bucket strainer and filtering the wort through the grains and THEN sparging is much more efficent, and gives you a better result as taste goes.
although have to admit this much of details are getting lost bc the wash will be distilled anyways so there goes the extra effort and money
Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. Great videos, they make one want to brew along with you.
Cheers mate 🥃
Thanks man I just needed that OG, awesome :)
Hey Jesse! I live in Tasmania and am getting into the whiskey craft. Just wondering what water do you use for mash? We have a similar climate and backyard to NZ here so 👊.
Great video! Where did you get that 2" tee Bro?
Hey Jesse, Like the video. Do you have one about your fermenter?
Great video. I have just done my first single malt mash using my beer making RIMS and sparging system. 5 kg Gladfield distiller's malt + 3 kg mild peat smoked malt. Yield was 25L at 1.071. I also used a high attenuation Belgian beer yeast. It should be ready for my still in another week.
+Roger Corbett fDPO hell yes! Wowl that's actually super similar to this one huh....... without the screwing up and needing sugar part haha!
I just checked my wash: down to 0.999 from 1.071 and still some activity. The Mangrove Jack M41 Belgian Ale Yeast does the job. Looking forward to getting it into the still using your excellent guide!
+Roger Corbett fDPO nice!! Yeah I'm thinking that should be rather tasty!!
If you are in or visiting Hastings before it "evaporates" I'll give you a taste. ;-)
+Roger Corbett fDPO all my family are in Hastings. Will be back over Xmas ;)
Hi Jesse. How do you maintain the temperature of the blue barrel whilst fermenting? do you use a heat pad/belt or rely on ambient temp?
You should add some sugar to the waste grain and top up with backset and water, it makes a nice thinner whiskey.
did you guys see the fly on the camera lol at around 1 min 35 secs. By the way this channel is GREAT thank for all the great info and your time in doing this. I am learning right there with you.
+Rob Farr haha I didn't notice it man!
Hi, Newbie here. Can you use standard barley and other grains, or does it have to be malted? TIA
Great video man. Thank you, great tips
No danger man :)
can you use a sous vide to maintain the temp of the mash?
Love it and away to catch up on your videos right now👍
+Hapless Ginger Brew awesome!!! We'll meet sir 😎
hi/ if iwant to make a 20 l. shouls i cut the ingridies in 5?
Been watching few of you're videos. Did you ever try to make youre own malt, to germinate you're own barley, grind it, cook it, destil it?
Hey jess check out the digiboil with the mash kit it’s very affordable I bout the 10 gallon one man it saves me a lot of time and less cleaning
What would be the turn out or can you reuse the all grain to remash
Why did you not just add the grain to the fermenter instead of separating it out. I am used to making sour mash corn moon shine.
Was your mistake stirri g clockwise?
Obviously wrong unless your wanting a purple aroma thats quite loud.
If you known how to due a decoction mash it will greatly help bring out the Smokey Note for your scotch single malt old moonshiner trick.
Huh interesting! Do you happen to know what it is about the decoction that helps bring the smoke over? Will look into that!
Thanks for the great tutorial.
Hey Jesse, Awesome video:-)> I'm going to throw in my vote for a video about fermenting on the grain, too. I've read a lot of conflicting info about the benefits of it and would love to see a side by side comparison to know once and for all if it's worth doing.
Yeah dude. I am intrigued now too. From what I can tell it seems much more excepted for a bourbon as opposed to a scotch. But honestly a fusion / cross over could be legit anyway
When I first started I would ferment off the grain. It was a real pain to separate because I used flaked maize. Then I switched to cracked corn for chickens and started fermenting on the grain. Yeah I leave a bit of wash on the grain, but I always turn it into a sour mash, and have been much more impressed with the flavor of the sour mash on the grain and now do all of my recipes this way.
not only should you ferment on the grain you should distill on it too if possible. Just try it ,OMG so good compared to anything commercial. Timing is super critical, you should try different timings but i suggest distiling right as your yeast is still bubbling as in like two days before they would be done, 10 days from start usually if you are at 70 fahrenheit.
Have u done the second run on your hooch? My heater manufacturer said not to exceed 100 ABV ,is it critical or dangerous?because 140 on first run
+larry baker
So your stripping run is now that high?
as I understand it the reason people state the "no more than 40%" into the boiler is due to its flammable nature from that point up.
People will often cut it back down to say 30% with water. Or blend it with other lower abv low wines for the spirit run.
There are a few lines of thinking that would say not to bother worrying about it. But I will leave it to someone more qualified and experienced. Especially when going counter to popular safety practices.
Arent there distiller beer yeast? And will the wort contain lacto? I dont really know what you would want in a single malt whiskey, but you will have lots of protein in that wort also due to not boiling/chilling.
+Steffen Brygg yup, there is. Like I said I just felt like messing with the recipee.
Yeah honestly I was a bit skeptical of the no boil. Feels pretty wrong for a brewer! But thought I would at least try one new thing for me this time around haha :)
what is glaadfield base?
I have seen quite a few people say not to remove the grain / barley from the water and then ferment, quite a few have said to strain in after fermentation as quit a lot of conversion is still taking place? whats you thoughts on this?
This is just my point of view....a educated guess.
I think if you are using well modified malts (Brewers malt) I don't think it gives much benefit. Most starch is converted in 15min.
If your using diy corn or something like that it may be different.
There could be flavour benefits as well though. You basically steeping in the grain for the fermentation.
That is great.. Thanks a lot. :-)
Hey man quick question, when I do all grain for beer, the boil stage sterilises the wort for fermenting. Does it not really matter than much when you’re going to distill it anyway?
Its a decision you can make either way. You dont have to worry about bottle bombs with distilling! But, choosing one way or the other is likeyl to effect the flavour. Have a listen to the podcast with Ironroot. They talk about it some more there :)
chasethecraft.com/podcast/ironroot-grain-toglass
Still It thanks man, you are absolutely top class. I’ve never had a UA-camr with your social following reply to a comment before. You’re a true gent!
Great to see you continuing on the trek! I'm excited to see a single malt, but I have a comment/concern for you. I don't know how smokey you like your whisky, but 3 kilos in a hundred liters is not a lot.
My experiments with cherry smoked malt used about 80g/L and I only achieved a light smoke flavor after stripping and finishing. I enjoy it, and my friends who don't like scotch liked it, but even at 80g/L it wasn't a defining characteristic of the whisky.
On another topic, do you have any American White Oak in your wood supply? Used bourbon or whisky barrels in my area are often chopped in half to make planters out of for gardeners. They're so fresh at certain times of the year that you can smell them at the garden canter from three meters.
Yup I hear you on the smoke! I probably should have addressed that in the vid, but it was long already haha. Ideally I wanted to do a lot more, like 100% smoked. But the cost was a factor, as was not having peat. So I decided to try and work towards building subtle complexity rather than flavor bombs. So if I can get "hmmm is that a touch of smoke in there?" I will be happy. More Highland than Isley I guess :)
Hey I was wondering could you make an ouzo? or other botanical related spirits?
+Jake Evans yup! I want to make everything haha. But noted my man, have a few things planned coming up soon that are fairly similar!
I'm sure you know this by now, but Bairds Heavy Peated Malted Barley is a decently priced and readily available barley that works well for an Islay type Scotch such as Laphroaig 10YR. You'd want to go 60% Peated %40 other barley.
Thanks mate! I was in a rush ordering for this one. They didn't have any peated on hand. I think it's about time to try again tho!
I bought a fifth of Laphroaig 10 yr a few months ago for $50. It tasted like burnt rubber.
What did you tape to the side of your fermenter?
The temp prob for the fermentation chamber (driven by STC 1000
great videos buddy thanks for sharing
Cheers mate 🥃
I have been banned from making still spirits stuff because of the smell it made I have the still spirit turbo boiler can that be used for part one with the muslin sack do u recommend finings etc I have just subscribed....
Hi mate, yeah the still spirits stuff has a bit of a suspect rep with most home distillers.
I dont ever use finnings in the kettle or the fermenter for whiskey. I definitely do for beer though.
So no cracked corn with the barley? Or can I ?
How much did the grain end up costing without the extract? Also do you know the iodine test?
Yup, I guess I should do a video just on that!
Hmmm I think it was $45 for grain and yeast.
By the way, I’ve seen you add sugar to up the productivity. Without any sugar added, are the flavors much better? And do you just have to live with a lower % of alcohol without chucking in a kilo of sugar into your 25 liter wash? Cheers
See your other comment mate :) But even with sugar I generally aim for the 8-10% ABV anyway.
Why dont you just leave the grain in the mash when you ferment it ?
Does the grain need to be broken up or is it OK not to grind it first?
@Arvid Noreen. Without breaking the grain up, enzymes from the grain can not be released into the water, and so cannot break up the starch into the desired sugars, needed for fermentation.
Loving your work mate. Would love to see a remake of this showing how we can use slightly better gear. Ive got a huge stainless steel pot with lid (think it's 98L) and I'm trying to work out the best way to convert it into a mash tun for scotch. I've got a magnetic drive pump. Thinking of adding a tap and heater and perhaps some other fittings. I'm new to all grain brewing but I am familiar with turbo sugar washes - so sorry if I've screwed up the terminology. Would love your feedback.
+Naughty Goat Farm awesome man! I think that's a dang good idea!
Easiest way is just to heat stroke water up, and dump it all into the fermenter together. Then ferment on the grain.
If you want to take it a step further I would look at BIAB (brew in a bag). Basically it's the easiest and cheapest set up for all grain mash. The home brew beer word is all over it. So get some info there.
Sounds like you may want towards a DIY RIMS or HERMS kit though. Once again home brew beer terms. Jump on a few forums and there is info all over.
Alternatively have a look at a few grainfather / robobrew videos. And DIY that ;)
Still It Thanks man I'll get my research hat on.
Ur doing a 26 gallon run right if the fermentation ratio isnt right it want ferment but i do this here in the us were i do a 55 gallon food grade drum witch would be about twice what you use its hard lol watching this and haveing to keep in mind u use liters not gallons and u use celcius not farenheit lol
Thanks for this video, my father in law has been distilling for around 30 years..I actually believe he was more inclined to give me his daughter than his secrets about home distilling... fecker! anyway.. thanks again for the vid I will be trying soon. On a side note.. i was wondering how much you actually laughed after you said "tea bagging" if it werent for the edit! lol
Hahaha, yeah dude. I had a good chuckle 😂😉
Yeah some guys play their cards close to their chest!
Just Riding the
Just Riding don’t blame him lol
Love craft spirits. Wish it was legal to distill at home on the states, no fun at all here... At least I can brew. Really great video to see this process. Cheers!
+Beer By The Numbers how's it man, yeah I feel for you guys :(. I really hope that is going to change soon. There is such a awesome home brew/beer community around would be nice to see the two communities merge some more!
Beer By The Numbers What are you doing here young man. Thought you was a beer monster. Are you starting to stray to the darkside? I know I am😂 My new still is on it’s way so on a learning journey right now👍
It might be illegal here but ill tell you not many people care. Owning a still is legal in just about every state(for water of course) and all the main stream legit Brew shops are now selling stills. I know a couple sheriff deputies that distill. Its an open secret. Just dont flaunt it, sell it or store a ton of it and you'll be ok
Just do it and keep your mouth shut. Its a lot of fun!
It's not illegal in all states in Missouri it's legal to own and operate a still but it's not legal to sell
If you put all your grain in a big pot and SLOWLY heat/stir, it will work through the amylase B temperature range, then start into the amylase A. Once you hit 71-72 degrees C, all your starches have been converted. He never got the grains into the amylase A temperature range and lost a lot of starches.
Alpha Amylase is active down to about 140F, it's just slow; Beta is active down to about 130F. Mashing around 142F for as long as he did should have left a very fermentable wash. You gain very little from a step mash with distilling, as you aren't drinking the beer; you're after the Ethanol and volatile flavor compounds, that's it. I get the impresssion that he was making his wash to come out at normal beer abv, which is rather silly, I usually go for something more along the lines of a very stong barleywine for the gravity of separated liquor (I also ferment on the grain). I also think he was counting on the yeast being a diastaticus, but not all belgian brewing yeast is diastaticus var.
@StillIt what is that bag called that you used to filter out your malt? I just use a pillowcase but they aren't made to drain well lol
+David Hyland hi man. Grain bag / brew in a bag bag should get you there. Or a paint strainer bag haha. should be a link down below to something similar on Amazon.
AH that's right. I've seen them in my local brew shop but I can never rembmer the name.. even though it's not a diccifult one. Thanks man! Found your channel a week ago and you got the distilling bug back in me after a few dry years!
EDIT: Ignore below. Found your build vid. Would be awesome to see a much more detailed build on your Arduino controller thogh.. Cuz it would be nice to just copy someone ;)
Might as well tack this quesitons on, I saw you have some Build vids, but nothing about your full still. Since it's already built have you considered doing just a walkthrough of your full setup (boiler, heating method, column, condensor, extras)?
+David Hyland haha awesome man! Glad to get you hooked again!
Yeah I definitely need to do a full video dedicated to the still builder.
Right now I just have a scr controller.which is working just fine. But I do want to make the arduino one still!
Well i'm subscribed and waiting ;D I hear SCRs are pretty reliable though
+David Hyland awesome to have you on board David :). It's done pretty well so far.
You would have used the double amount of grain with sugar too i think, the gravity is too low... the problem will be the tea bag method for that amount of grain...
Excellent.
So your OG was 1.065? That does not seem all that high. Is that common for grain mashes? I brew a lot of mead and Cider, and i like about 1.130 in my meads. Not being critical, just asking, as I have never distilled (yet).
You are correct that is not very high and that will only make 8-9%. The higher you go up in OG the harder your yeast work however. This can result in esters and odd flavors. If he was makin a vodka that may not be as big of a deal because you can reflux some of that out but for a whiskey in a pot still you want full flavor and those odd flavors could come through.
sensational big thumbs up
Yeah buddy!
haha yeah this one felt good dude!
why can't we use malt extract to make the mash?
You could for sure. I would suggest using one specificly made for brewing (fermentability), and make sure you get the UN hopped ones. It will get pricey fast though :)
Malt extract is less fun. There's a certain effect that an all grain ferment has on me that I cannot reproduce with an extract recipe.
Now those who sampled my products couldn't tell. So lme and dme certainly produce respectable results. But I can't bring myself to do anything less than a full grain mash that often anymore, because as I see it, the reason for brewing its to get intimate with the process. An lme or dme brewer might be more into experimenting with adjuncts. It's all about making the brew you like!
Hey, that was cool..! Don't worry about the mistake, it'll just give you a slight touch of sugar head in the final product. I really think it's cool you didn't cut that part of the video, it won't be the last mistake you'll make. Believe me..even us seasoned distillers still fuck up now and then, that's just how things go when one is a hobby distiller without fancy high tech equipment to have consistency in the batch each time. I think you'll get a very enjoyable drink out of this. Btw...you can also run it in the reflux still, even though pot stilling seems to be the prefered way for AG recipes. It'll still carry a lot of flavours over, despite the higher ABV. Just do a quick and dirty strip in the pot still and then run it in the reflux still. Have the take- off rate high and the ABV relatively low, do the cuts as you go along and then proceed like you did in your previous video about cuts. Happy stilling..
+Kalle Klæp thanks man. Gotta swallow the pride and keep it real sometimes haha.
Thanks man, hadn't thought of running it reflux style. Think I will do this one as a pot still. Just because I have not done a pot spirit run yet.
You'll get a whole s.. load of flavors over with that pot still. Be generous with the foreshots and conservative with the cut, then I'm sure you'll end up with a really nice drop (even fresh from the still as "white dog").
+Kalle Klæp awesome thanks as always!
You should have used a large insulated water cooler, it would have held the heat much longer.
+Thomas edwin yup agreed. Water cooler/Esky/chilly bin (translating for others) is definitely the tried and true piece of home brew kit for this.
I was being a cheap skate in this video ;).
Is that a burn on your hand? I've avoided that so far. Cheers for making your videos, I'm new to distilling also. Just made a horribly oily vodka so far.
You can hydro separate the oily spirits you've got and still get a decent drop out of it.
Kalle Klæp really? I can't distinguish the oil from the rest though? Is it a matter of siphoning? I was just going to put it through the next round and be more anal with my blending
Siphoning and filtering the last part through a coffee filter is one way to do it. However, hydro separation does a much better job. You'll simply dilute the batch below 20 % ABV. At this low point the headsy substances will fall out of solution (so you'll get them all out). Also, the oily stuff will float at the top. Siphon off the middle 2/3 'rds, leaving the foggy part at the bottom and the oily part at the top undisturbed! If you do this, you will get a lot of extra ethanol. But you leave the heavily concentrated fractions of headsy and tailsy molecules where they should stay. Take the part you've drawn off and redistill. Whiskey makers use this method..especially Scottish ones. Sometimes I use the process for my Rum. Gin clouds up when mixed with water, but as you'll redistill the batch it doesn't matter. Rule of thumb to counteract clouding....mix alcohol into water..NOT the other way around. Remember this if you ever try your luck with Gin
Now don't let you be confused about the fact that alcohol and water blend perfectly in a solution. That's true...BUT the trick is the low ABV you'll dilute it to.
Below is a long haired explanation of the details of the process, read it if you wish to :
The following is taken from
"Whisky: Technology, Production and Marketing"
Alcoholic strength of the charge of combined foreshots, feints and low
wines should not exceed 30 per cent ABV; strengths in excess of this lead to
blank runs, when the demisting test fails to indicate potable spirit. In such
circumstances the demisting test protects the previously collected potable
charges from an influx of non-potable spirit, which, with its high concentrations
of higher fatty acid esters and long chain saturated carboxylic acids,
would impart a ‘feinty’ note to the spirit. The demisting test should always
be available, even if foreshots are collected on a timed basis.
Low wines and feints receivers and chargers act as separating vessels. The
last runnings of a spirit distillation contain the heavy oils or esters that are not
readily soluble in water. Such oils have an affinity for alcohol, especially at
164 Whisky: Technology, Production and Marketing
high strength. At a strength of less than 30 per cent ABV these compounds
undergo a phase separation, where the esters float on top of the aqueous layer
while a small proportion are dissolved in the aqueous layer. If the concentration
of alcohol is allowed to exceed 30 per cent ABV, these floating surface oils
migrate into the higher alcoholic strength aqueous layer, being completely
dissolved. This effect eventually impacts not only on the demisting test, but
also on the whole spirit distillation - potable spirit cannot be collected as the
charge of low wines and feints contains a disproportionate concentration of
heavy oils, making it impossible to have a turbidity-free demisting test result.
With low wines and feints charges at less than 30 per cent ABV, it is still
possible to attract distillation problems. Presentation of the floating surface
layer of heavy oils or higher fatty acid esters as a charge to the still (by
completely emptying the contents of the charger into the still) will result in
an episode when the collection of potable spirit (as determined by the demisting
test) is unachievable. The whole spirit distillation system will have been
contaminated by these esters, and it can take several distillations before satisfactory
spirit is again obtained.
To avoid such scenarios, when the low wines and feints appear to be
approaching higher strengths (or have even reached this situation) the charge
can be diluted with water, aiming for a combined strength of less than 30 per
cent ABV and thus stimulating hydroseparation. The surface phase must not
be allowed to enter the spirit still on charging.
Adherence to these principles will ensure a consistent product, both on nose
and analysis. The low wines and feints components reach a steady concentration
state, maintaining equilibrium during subsequent distillations.
Kalle Klæp ah okay thanks I'll do that before throwing it in the next batch. Thanks for the info!
+oljackoful ....ahhhhh I don't think it was a burn hahaha. Not sure what you mean.
Looks like you have much better advice on that than I could give already :)
Thanks for reminding me why I do don't BIAB.
What do you do. I’m about to try this bag. And next might fermentation with grain in.
ok, from my experience, i usually ferment everything with the grain. then filter out the mash. i find that it gives me more flavor. especially with me using thumpers. keep that in mind. your way will be fine. but you may not get as strong of flavor. nice vid again and good live feed last night
Thanks my man!
I did think about doing that actually. Honestly, can't remember my thought process in deciding not to haha.
Both have advantages. It's part of the journey.
Yet another thing to test . . . .
In your video you said 100 liters, and 16 kilos of grain(?). Rule of thumb for all grain is 2 pounds of grain per gallon of liquid. 2 to 1 ratio. If my math is correct you used 1.3 to 1 ratio.(?) Also no sparge if fermenting off the grain.
One way to correct, add table sugar. Sanitize hydrometer. Add a kilo of sugar at a time, and check gravity. You can also use a refractometer. It's the eastiest way I can think of without doing a crapload of math and conversions..
I have always used liquid enzymes Sebstar-htl and Sebamyl-gl in big batches instead of malt. Can convert starches in mash up to 190F (87.8C). Stuff is killer, keeps the grain bills low. ;)
Yep, dont get much past you eh?! haha.
Will look into that for sure. Im going to guess that would be very handy if you are working with corn!?
Really its Great video bro
love the hanalei shirt aloha from kauai.
Aloha, I spent a 10 days surfing that spot, back when there was less to my gut haha. Seemed like a nice keepsake to take home :)
@@StillIt love the channel, i am in the process of building a small pot still. love all the info its good stuff. If u ever come to kau
kauai let me know. i have a question about a sacrificial run. i am building a 5 gall. still how big of a sac. run do i have to do. can i do a gallon of bird watchers
hell yea single malt ftw im trying this thanks for the vid Still it.
Yeah man! Kinda intense having to wait so long to see if its anygood! haha
@@StillIt hey how did it go?
Found the tea bag vid!!!! Yes
Probably didn’t mix that giant barrel of mash good enough or something
Wife and I watched you squeeze your T-bag. It was silent in the house for about ten minutes
11:10 that T-bag is dummy thiccc
I bet she was leaking like a faucet
>minimal gear
>here is 20 different artisan ingredients im using
Hmmmmm I could see how that could be confusing if you don't understand the difference between gear and ingredients.
hahahaha fair point mate, yeast is the one you boil ur mash in rite?@@StillIt
I may not know what I don't know, but, why wouldnt you ferment it with the grain inside? 100% noob question. But I'm curious.
+Nobody In-Particular nah good question. I did consider it. And have a few comments saying I should have. Probably will on the future. Habit I guess hahah
Called "fermenting on the grains". Gives more flavor from the grains to the final product. Works great for pot stills. If running a reflux the flavor will be mostly stripped away.
If you use enzymes or malt it is not really necessary to ferment on the grains, they absorb a lot of the liquid and take up space in the fermenter.
Google "Uncle Jesse simple sour mash". Which is a no cook corn/sugar wash. It can be soured afterwards with backset from a previous distillation. Giving it more flavor with each generation of ferment.
Fermenting on the grains does take up a lot of space in the fermenter. I use a diaphram pump with a racking can and stainless steel sleeve to get all the liquid out of a 55 gallon drum without clogging up too much. I rack it to a secondary fermenter to clear (it looks like white wine). If not doing a sour mash I give (some of) the spent grains to my chickens or put in the compost pile. Grains smell like high wines. I try never to go above 10% potential abv in any ferment.
I've often wondered about that, particularly with his CC style of still. If it was ran fast and add around 60 proof, I would think that it would have as much flavor as a pot still. Would love to get Jesse's feedback on that
+azcarteranderson I have wondered the same thing. Have yet to try it. Would need to run the reflux condenser pretty flat out nd have decent vapor speed. But o think it may hit 160proof with no stripping run.
I just did my first ferment on the grain with a cherry smoked grain. I also didnt boil my mash for the first time too, I read somewhere this is good because it doesnt destroy the emzymes so they continue working during fermentation and allow the wash to dry out completely.
Mine was a 40 L batch with mostly smoked and some pale malt that I malted myself so it probably was not very well modified so doing it on the grain worked because it made sure all the sugars were collected. But as mention this is probably not so important with well modified malts,
It worked really well for me though, the mash was about 1.070 and was at 1.000ish after 8 days.
Ps the build you have done on this still is so good. I think I wanna build one of those shotgun condensers. My still is pretty similar but with just a single tube condenser which really starts to struggle towards the end of the run when the temps rise. Gret work dude.
Is tea bagging the same thing in New Zealand that it is in the U.S.???
I mean I have heard that the yeast will work but hmmmmmm
Wrong still head need pot still config not reflux although a doubbler would help you a bit
It is a pot still mate. Or more accurate it's a ccvm pot/reflux hybrib. When set up without packing or a reflux condenser it's essentially a pot still.
Should I assume the temperature was centigrade? Here in the states, everything is Fahrenheit.
It's about time the U S swapped fully over to metric! So much easier!!
I never hear about bastard whiskey, but naming sugar+malt right "bastard whiskey". ))) Gd bw from Siberia
came for the brew stayed for the beared
+leon ham I'm beginning to think it's more popular than me!
wheres the fan page I would so sign up ;0) ... I thought apple cider was hard, single malt is so next level but its nice to dream of what I will do one day..;0)
haha! You will have to ask its manager I think.
I think there's little Asian dude that lives in there, he comes out once in awhile and does the manicuring, or in this case, the Landscaping.
+azcarteranderson bahahaha. Not very often
I did the opposite, learned to still and then a year later learned to brew beer :-)
Got second keg converted to boil kettle and my still can be used for sparge water etc
One thing you need is a copper coil that you can fit in your still and small pump to create a rims system, would give you a very good efficiency, that's what my plan is
Yeah nice! I used to run a kind of bastard RIMS for the BIAB setup. But I would love to get a proper RIMS or HERMS setup.
Dude I tried all grain & it is too much work & not enough result so I switched now buy Dark Liquid Malt Extract 25kg @ a time & add some Corn sugar for alcohol strength then use a Dried Active Yeast from the states & that is my Single Malt Whiskey.
Nice man. That will do it! Yeah you have to be doing it for the love of it to make sense haha. She's a lotta work.
My last batch in a 200 litre Fermenter left very little scum at the bottom vs my previous corn Whiskey which had a lot of crap to squeeze by hand. The result with LME was a higher ABV & more liqueur to play with.
Я думал только в России гонят самогон
I wish this was legal in the US. I know they don't prosecute hobby distillers very often, but you could do 5 years for the illegal distilling and 5 years for tax evasion. You become a felon and can never own a gun again. Fuck all that.
That degrees C confuses me because here in the US we use degrees F.
+Thomas edwin that degrees f confuses me! Hahah.
But yeah, I hear you. I should have a think about putting conversation anotations up :)
Google is handy for conversions to catch up with the rest of the world...
I do see the appeal of celcius because of the 0 - 100 scale for freezing and boiling, but i do personally find farenheit a bit easier to use (not only because im American, im young we grew up with both so im fairly used to both systems) the reason why i think its a bit easier is because its more fine tuned so the temperature difference degree to degree is smaller than Celsius (32 - 212 for freezing to boiling) so i find it easier to monitor temperatures but hey as long as it works right!
Degrees c also has points in between so is just as accurate.
be nice if include american standard we dont do metricks watch hits go up.. we dont understand that system in clude both.....be nice
+walt braden yeah cool man. I did experiment with that for a bit.
lol...america chose not to use metric while the rest of the world moved forward...You'll figure it out...its pretty simple
Be nice yourself and get smart Walt! Your funny old system is outdated, it's time to enter the 21st cntury!
Paused.
- don't care. I come to UA-cam to watch videos and learn, not pretend to be on a game show.
Awwwwww I'm sorry contestant number 8. That's the wrong answer. You get sent home with no prize!
@@StillIt
Awe shucks, lol.
@@StillIt
Great video bud, I loved all the round about info, and the explanations where it was necessary.
Thanks for making it.
I'm sorry contestant 8. The judges decision is final!
Haha nah mate I hear ya 😊😂