I'm glad you added the surface plate detail to lapping in the mating surfaces. I worked for the grimeca importer and we had to lap in brand new calipers to make sure they didn't leak.
Hi Ali, You're welcome. If you want all the details of how to do this work including part #s, click the link to the written procedure on my web site in the summary under the video.
Easy peasy when you do have a compressor....🤣😂🤣. I always start to get nervous when you say it, then I know here comes a problem for me. Great video and thank you very much for the contribution, I’m currently restoring/rebuilding a ‘81 R100. Got the bike in a thousand pieces and was only told that the previous mechanic gave up on it...
Excellent video; clear and well organized. Thank you! (I'm about to undertake this on the path to resurrecting a rough old '82 R100RT. Really appreciate the obvious time and care you've taken to help fellow airheads...) - Having smashed a finger once using compressed air to remove (Porsche) caliper pistons, I now use a large C clamp or soft vice jaws to contain things - Very nice job with these calipers...
Superbly conveyed as always! Thanks Brook for your generosity of insight into the R100RS and more demystification. I'd never thought of colour-coding the Brembo calipers; might just do that one day... In the meantime I'll get some s/s pins for the '78 RS rear caliper.
Malcolm, I hope it went well for you. As with all things "brakes" be cautious in the short term until you know they are working correctly and your rebuild is holding up well.
Excellent instruction, my only "add on" would be a thin application of anti sieze grease [copperslip or similar] to the threads of the allen bolts, and also to the bleed nipples, ....
Tom, I'm pleased this material helped you out. I always proceed cautiously to test my brakes anytime I have worked on them. And, with the Brembo design, be sure to check where the two halves mate after you have done some hard stops and verify there are no brake fluid leaks along the seam.
Late again, I'm afraid (as I am resurrecting my R100RS project and 'catching-up' on all relevant useful info) but you may like to know that the mark you noted is indeed the casting date. It is common with cast or moulded items. The year is shown as two digits (in this case 82) in the centre circle and around it the twelve divisions, represent the months of that year. On your example there appear to be pips moulded in five of those divisions ie the month of May.
Hi Bram, Good luck and remember to be sure the matting surface between the two caliper halves is dead flat using the technique I show or they will leak and you won't have front brakes.
You're welcome Mariano, and thank you for stopping by. I've had the opportunity to take two motorcycle tours in your country: one was from Malaga through the Andalusia region, including the Alhambra in Granada, and the other from Barcelona through the Pyrenees. What a beautiful country :-)
I really enjoy your videos. I found that the square ring in the Brembo caliper isn't so much for sealing as it is a mechanism for piston retraction using the nylon's memory when you release the brake lever. Otherwise, the pads would wear prematurely. When I removed the nylon ring, I carefully inspected the ring groove for aluminum oxidation and have found that any debris prevents the retraction motion of the ring as well as preventing it from seating--leading to more premature pad wear.
T B, You are correct. The shape of the ring provides a return force on the piston. And, it also seals the piston and the caliper to prevent brake fluid leaks. It's a very ingenious design used on all disk brake systems.
I’m rebuilding the Brembo front brake caliper on a ‘92 R100GS. A small section of the female side of the threads on one of the molts that holds the caliper together is stripped - just 1/4 of the threads. Can this be re-threaded before I install the new bolt that came with the rebuild kit? Thanks! Your videos are essential to my rebuild project!
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks - was afraid that would be your response. Any ideas about where I might find a replacement? Thanks again - much appreciated!
Julian, click the link in the video summary under the video viewing pane. It will take you to the documentation with all the details about how I do the work. My video's are only a summary. The documents contain all the details.
You’re a ‘star’ brilliant. Working on the front brake of my 1989 R100GS. The calliper rebuild would have taken twice as long without your excellent video. Thank you from London.
Brook, I have a question about the brake lines. Specifically I am speaking about an '84 R100. I am clear thru the reservoir, the banjo fitting and into the manifold/splitter. Coming out of the splitter the 84 has flex tube instead of the rigid metal lines running down to the grommets and then into the rigid s tubes that feed the calipers. On both sides, the flex tube running out of the splitter seem clogged. Can you tell me if there are back check valves or something in these flex lines or should they be clear and able to pass fluid or air even. If not would you have any suggestions on how to clear them. Thank yo kindly for your time to read my question. Thank you for the great videos.
William, Someone modified you brake lines. On each side, there should be a steel line from the master cylinder that connects to hose that connects to a steel line to the caliper. I would replace the incorrect rubber lines from the master cylinder with the correct steel lines. The part# of the two steel lines that connect to the master cylinder are [34 32 1 235 671 BRAKE PIPE LEFT (from 09/80); 34 32 1 235 672 BRAKE PIPE RIGHT (from 09/80)]. There are no check valves anywhere in the bark lines.
Hi Azparuh, I believe the torque is 22 FT-Lbs. It is important that you get the mating surfaces dead flat as I show or the calipers will not seal and will leak brake fluid.
Wasabi Fiend, I got mine from Euro MotoElectrics (www.euromotoelectrics.com). Click the link under the video pane to see the full documentation of how I do this work that includes the parts list with part numbers.
HI Brooks, thanks for this video. I have a question for you: I have an 1983 R65, and my calipers's piston are 36mm. The reference Brembo 98.5032.50 in this video are for piston of 38 mm? I think that's the difference between my BMW R65 and other bikes like Guzzy and Ducati or R100RS. Do you know the Brembo's reference for 36mm piston? Thanks. The reference in BMW is much more expensive than Brembo reference.
I have the same style Brembo calipers on my 1980 Benelli 900 Sei. I replaced the three pins and spring clip with stainless steel items. Why did you paint your blue, surely black or gold would be better?
Hi David. BMW installed blue anodized brake calipers on the 1977 R100RS. I used an "anodized" blue paint to emulate it as this bike is an homage to the RS bikes. I converted the fairing to an RT style. So the bike includes design aspects BMW used for the first series of R100RS (1977-1984) and the RT bikes (1979-1984). Or said differently, I get to do whatever I want :-)
Brooks, the calipers look great. I’m restoring an 82 R100RT with the same breaks. Did you media blast the calipers before painting? What paint specifically did you use? I’m curious what type of paint will hold up to high temps and rocks? enamel? Urtathane? Acrylic? Your thoughts?
Hi Matthew, I always post a link to detailed documentation I publish on my web site about how I do the work. The videos are only a summary. For the details, click the link you'll find out how I did it.
WE AWARE: I purchased 3 of the kits in this helpful video shown as Brembo part number 98.5032.50. They did not fit my 1983 R100RT, the kit shown is the 32mm seals and such. FYI
![[A's BMW vol.1] Engine removal BMW R100RS エンジン分解と降ろし作業 [ASMR]](/img/n.gif)
I'm glad you added the surface plate detail to lapping in the mating surfaces. I worked for the grimeca importer and we had to lap in brand new calipers to make sure they didn't leak.
Great walk through on the anatomy of the vintage BMW brakes. Thank you!
Hi Ali, You're welcome. If you want all the details of how to do this work including part #s, click the link to the written procedure on my web site in the summary under the video.
Easy peasy when you do have a compressor....🤣😂🤣. I always start to get nervous when you say it, then I know here comes a problem for me. Great video and thank you very much for the contribution, I’m currently restoring/rebuilding a ‘81 R100. Got the bike in a thousand pieces and was only told that the previous mechanic gave up on it...
Johann, It sounds like you have a major project on your hands. All the best for a successful build. :-)
Very very nice tutorial : step by step, I could easily see what to do with my calipers. Thanks.
You're welcome. 🙂
Excellent video; clear and well organized. Thank you!
(I'm about to undertake this on the path to resurrecting a rough old '82 R100RT. Really appreciate the obvious time and care you've taken to help fellow airheads...)
- Having smashed a finger once using compressed air to remove (Porsche) caliper pistons, I now use a large C clamp or soft vice jaws to contain things
- Very nice job with these calipers...
Thank you for the kind words John.
Excellent explanations! Clear and plenty of great information
Superbly conveyed as always! Thanks Brook for your generosity of insight into the R100RS and more demystification. I'd never thought of colour-coding the Brembo calipers; might just do that one day... In the meantime I'll get some s/s pins for the '78 RS rear caliper.
@kaleuclint, thanks for the kind words.
Thanks Brook, I have just done this very job after watching your excellent Tutorial .
Malcolm, I hope it went well for you. As with all things "brakes" be cautious in the short term until you know they are working correctly and your rebuild is holding up well.
Excellent instruction, my only "add on" would be a thin application of anti sieze grease [copperslip or similar] to the threads of the allen bolts, and also to the bleed nipples, ....
Eazy peazy. Thanks for the help!
1983 r80rt safe for the road!
Alabama
Tom, I'm pleased this material helped you out. I always proceed cautiously to test my brakes anytime I have worked on them. And, with the Brembo design, be sure to check where the two halves mate after you have done some hard stops and verify there are no brake fluid leaks along the seam.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage yes sir.
Just got back from a test run. No leaks. Working better than ever. Thanks again for the help.
Just great!
Brook, very helpful information explained in a useful entertaining way. Thank you!
John in Colorado
Thank you, from Norway
Jon, you are welcome.
Late again, I'm afraid (as I am resurrecting my R100RS project and 'catching-up' on all relevant useful info) but you may like to know that the mark you noted is indeed the casting date. It is common with cast or moulded items. The year is shown as two digits (in this case 82) in the centre circle and around it the twelve divisions, represent the months of that year. On your example there appear to be pips moulded in five of those divisions ie the month of May.
That is very helpful I'm rebuilding mine
Bryan,
Be sure to read the documentation in the link under the video pane. And make sure the caliper mating surfaces are flat.
Thank you so much for the helpful information, this convinced me to try it myself :) ! Greets from Belgium
Hi Bram, Good luck and remember to be sure the matting surface between the two caliper halves is dead flat using the technique I show or they will leak and you won't have front brakes.
Great Video Thank you ...
You're welcome Sam.
Thank you very much for the explication . I have a bmw k75 and it will be very helpful. Thank you.
greetings mariano. from Spain
You're welcome Mariano, and thank you for stopping by. I've had the opportunity to take two motorcycle tours in your country: one was from Malaga through the Andalusia region, including the Alhambra in Granada, and the other from Barcelona through the Pyrenees. What a beautiful country :-)
I really enjoy your videos. I found that the square ring in the Brembo caliper isn't so much for sealing as it is a mechanism for piston retraction using the nylon's memory when you release the brake lever. Otherwise, the pads would wear prematurely. When I removed the nylon ring, I carefully inspected the ring groove for aluminum oxidation and have found that any debris prevents the retraction motion of the ring as well as preventing it from seating--leading to more premature pad wear.
T B, You are correct. The shape of the ring provides a return force on the piston. And, it also seals the piston and the caliper to prevent brake fluid leaks. It's a very ingenious design used on all disk brake systems.
Great explanation thanks
Jtreg, You're welcome.
Do you use any anti seize on the bolts that hold the calipers together?
No
I’m rebuilding the Brembo front brake caliper on a ‘92 R100GS. A small section of the female side of the threads on one of the molts that holds the caliper together is stripped - just 1/4 of the threads. Can this be re-threaded before I install the new bolt that came with the rebuild kit?
Thanks! Your videos are essential to my rebuild project!
I’d replace the caliper.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks - was afraid that would be your response. Any ideas about where I might find a replacement? Thanks again - much appreciated!
Try Euro Motoelectrics
Hi Brook ,what type of brake fluid should I use in my 1981 BMW R 65 ? Yor video's are very good we all appreciate them
Steve, I believe these use DOT 4 fluid.
Thanks for the detailed and helpful video. That Duplicolor anodized finish looks amazing. Just wondering how it holds up over time?
Fiorello, time will tell, But I can always freshen them up with another coat if they need it.
What should the torque setting be for the hex bolts used to clamp each side of the calliper together?
Julian, click the link in the video summary under the video viewing pane. It will take you to the documentation with all the details about how I do the work. My video's are only a summary. The documents contain all the details.
You’re a ‘star’ brilliant. Working on the front brake of my 1989 R100GS. The calliper rebuild would have taken twice as long without your excellent video. Thank you from London.
@@julianwilson9730 You're welcome Julian. As the old adage says, "It's easy when you know how." :-)
what size is the o ring that goes between the caliper halves?
David, I don't know. I just buy the caliper rebuild kit and intall it.
Brook, I have a question about the brake lines. Specifically I am speaking about an '84 R100. I am clear thru the reservoir, the banjo fitting and into the manifold/splitter. Coming out of the splitter the 84 has flex tube instead of the rigid metal lines running down to the grommets and then into the rigid s tubes that feed the calipers. On both sides, the flex tube running out of the splitter seem clogged. Can you tell me if there are back check valves or something in these flex lines or should they be clear and able to pass fluid or air even. If not would you have any suggestions on how to clear them. Thank yo kindly for your time to read my question. Thank you for the great videos.
William, Someone modified you brake lines. On each side, there should be a steel line from the master cylinder that connects to hose that connects to a steel line to the caliper. I would replace the incorrect rubber lines from the master cylinder with the correct steel lines.
The part# of the two steel lines that connect to the master cylinder are [34 32 1 235 671 BRAKE PIPE LEFT (from 09/80); 34 32 1 235 672 BRAKE PIPE RIGHT (from 09/80)].
There are no check valves anywhere in the bark lines.
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, I surely appreciate the feedback !
Hi Brook, very descriptive video! Will you let me know what torque spec did you apply on the joining bolts?
Thank you in advance!
Hi Azparuh, I believe the torque is 22 FT-Lbs. It is important that you get the mating surfaces dead flat as I show or the calipers will not seal and will leak brake fluid.
Great video! Where do you get the caliper rebuild kits? I've been looking for one for my BMW and one for my Moto Guzzi. Thanks in advance!
Wasabi Fiend, I got mine from Euro MotoElectrics (www.euromotoelectrics.com). Click the link under the video pane to see the full documentation of how I do this work that includes the parts list with part numbers.
HI Brooks, thanks for this video. I have a question for you: I have an 1983 R65, and my calipers's piston are 36mm. The reference Brembo 98.5032.50 in this video are for piston of 38 mm? I think that's the difference between my BMW R65 and other bikes like Guzzy and Ducati or R100RS. Do you know the Brembo's reference for 36mm piston? Thanks. The reference in BMW is much more expensive than Brembo reference.
Paco, I don't know the Brembo reference for the 36 mm caliper.
I have the same style Brembo calipers on my 1980 Benelli 900 Sei. I replaced the three pins and spring clip with stainless steel items. Why did you paint your blue, surely black or gold would be better?
Hi David. BMW installed blue anodized brake calipers on the 1977 R100RS. I used an "anodized" blue paint to emulate it as this bike is an homage to the RS bikes. I converted the fairing to an RT style. So the bike includes design aspects BMW used for the first series of R100RS (1977-1984) and the RT bikes (1979-1984). Or said differently, I get to do whatever I want :-)
Brooks, the calipers look great. I’m restoring an 82 R100RT with the same breaks. Did you media blast the calipers before painting? What paint specifically did you use? I’m curious what type of paint will hold up to high temps and rocks? enamel? Urtathane? Acrylic? Your thoughts?
Hi Matthew, I always post a link to detailed documentation I publish on my web site about how I do the work. The videos are only a summary. For the details, click the link you'll find out how I did it.
WE AWARE: I purchased 3 of the kits in this helpful video shown as Brembo part number 98.5032.50. They did not fit my 1983 R100RT, the kit shown is the 32mm seals and such. FYI