Nice work Greg, I also read that article and was unsure how much an improvement it would make but now i have seen how well it works it will be getting done to my saw. I'm going to run a bypass around the needle valve and fit a small ball valve that way i can set the slow feed and leave it but just open the ball valve and i can drop the blade down near to the job fast . Another irritating thing with the spring is if you lift the saw up after a cut and don't hang on to it the saw will flip up fast this has broken a few of the pivot brackets on these saws and i have had mine flip over backwards - fortunately with no damage . Thanks for the effort to make this video !
I've been planning to do this for awhile and you gave me the key I needed. The sink tailpipe for a smooth cylinder - DOH! Sometimes I get so tied up with the fiddley bits that I get brain farts on the obvious ones. Great job, Greg.
Nice project. To make the check valve in the piston as good as leakproof, just hit the ball very light with a pin drive and hammer. It will create a perfectly formed seat around the rim of the hole for the ball to rest in. Cheers, Brian.
+Brian Petersen Hi Brian, I am building this project and I used your idea of hitting the ball with a drive pin and hammer. It worked as stated, no runs drips or errors. Thanks for that idea. PS, I discarded that ball and used a new one in it's place.
+Kenneth Bartlett Good to hear that it worked out for you :-) To others, you can use the same ball you created the seat with, even in soft steel and stainless.
Nice! My new sort-of boss brought one of these over to the shop I work in because we are changing machines and the space is so tight that we are going from using 20' tubes (we make a lot of rings) to 40" in the new machine. So, for the first time, we actually need a hirizontal bandsaw. The only other one I've used was a nice one that probably costs around 8 or 9 grand so moving to this little guy is a bit cumbersome or whatever. He said he doesn't waste the time on a hydraulic system for such a cheep saw but this looks easy enough to build and combining this mod with a simple coolant system would make this thing a real asset to a shop. A water bottle with a hole poked in it is about all that's needed, the cap will control coolant flow. I think I'll send him the link. Thanks for the video.
That turned out great Greg! I'd designed a direct bolt on for my machine but never got around to building it. Using a tailpiece for the cylinder was a great idea. Good to see it worked out well- and it works! Take care, G.
Terrific job man on the down feed control. Just got thru the whole series and the whole thing is the cats meow! Nicely documented and thought out. Great job on everything. -Pidge
great build, I can't wait to make one for my Delta 4x6, if you put a small ball valve after the needle valve you won't have to fiddle as much with the needle valve and be able to lock it in any position. Thanks for the fun build video
Just stumbled on your channel doing some research on the SB 9A, as I'll be getting one in the next month or two. Really nice work on this project! Thanks for sharing!
Nice project.... I shall do likewise on my HBM saw.... It is smaller than yours, but I can scale this down a bit. Two pro-tips : 1) open a bag of ball-bearings over a tray, pot or bowl 2) don't run with scissors Cheers Paddy
Ur work is amazing, so precisely with so much details. I think u can fix anything and make good things. Thanks for sharing!!! I am learning a lot from u.
its probably already been suggested, but I think I'd make a small knurled knob than can replace the rod on that valve. the length of it is what makes it so touchy. think about the circumference at the tip were your hand naturally grabs vs the circumference on the center pen. a smaller knob attatched with a set screw or just loctite will make it less touchy. and probably feel better on the hand as well. just one man's opinion. great video and clever mod.
Great build Greg. Thanks so much for sharing. My only complaint is where are the cat(s), I use to do body & fender work, and had a shop cat, that would sleep in the car(s) I was working on, all throughout the banging, grinding, etc. I miss that cat. (passed on from old age 17 plus years old.)
+Stanwood Dave Kitties aren't allowed in the shop without express supervision. All I'd need is for one of them to get a metal splinter and the wife would kill me.
Greg, A super build! Really a necessary addition to your band saw. You sounded like a kid on Christmas morning when the unit worked flawlessly! Thanks for a very interesting and informative video. Have the fall colors hit the eastern seaboard yet? One of the days I would like to come to Boston. It is rich with history and it would be cool to meet you in person. Thanks again! Have a good one! Dave
+Swarf Rat Tell you what. As payment for looking at my leafs you can rake them off the lawn :-) Boston is an interesting place. We just take it for granted and bitch about the traffic and road work.
Fantastic job, really enjoyed watching i just bought one of these saw's, I will have to have a go at making one like this. my lathe is smallish and not good at using parting tools for the O ring, without chattering as tool post is weak for that kind of work. Thumbs up to you :)
Love the video, looks like it works very well. Now I know how to make mine work. :-) If you want a needle valve with finer control, try your local hydraulics dealer. I used to work at one and there are cylinder speed control needle valves that offer an extremely fine rate of control for just this application.
Really nice job Greg!! When you spilled all the bearing when you opened the bag. Sorry Man but i lost it laughing. Don't know why , just found your reaction priceless. keep up the awesome work.
+Jerry Obrien Yeah me too, just had to laugh.That's why I buy extra screws, bolts etc, for those that fall off the table, under the bench or into that black hole never to be seen again. Last week I bought a couple of taper pins for my lathe, and when I ordered a couple of extras just for that reason, the clerk just rolled his eyes.
Nice build! BTW: if you want to buy quarts of hydraulic fluid, try motorcycle fork oil, that you can get in different weights, eg SEA 5 (very viscous) to SEA 20 (heavy), the heavier the oil the less fiddly the needle valve will be. Just don't overdo it, because too thick of oil makes the whole sluggish..
Hi, very nice job, I lot of details in the construction and it all workt out very well. But sometimes you need a little more pressure on the blade while cutting. For example 3 inch round steel, then the weight of the arm is not enough for a good cut. It will just wobbel throu. But then again if you want perfection you should want to pay for it. Nice video I liked it.
Nice build! Your rod seems bit rough though, it may eat those o-rings pretty quick and start leaking. Thank you for a good video, I have to make one for my machine - I hate that spring tension system.
+Halligan142 That's true. I also often use cheap parts as proof of consept and then upgrade them if needed, or leave them as they are if working. Btw, don't you love those "Hahaa, it works!" moments? :)
Very nice mod. My neighbor works for Ellis band saw so he got me a cylinder from them and I mounted it vertically like they do on there saws. Just another way to skin a cat.
Good idea but I would put some hoses on it and run the control to the front with a dial in value and small pump so you can life and lower at different speeds. But I do like your idea and will copy it onto my saw later on for sure. Use hydraulic oil it will last you a lot longer and better to control I would recommend ISO68. And hey those knobs are nice would you make those and well them too?
I like your relief valve for lifting... but I find my saw annoying when coming down from full up to line up a cut or start a cut.I'd like to have a button to push. :) My buddy has a large band saw with a cylinder on it. His adjustment valve acts in one turn and is numbered. It cuts on about 2-4 setting and if you move it to 5-6 setting it comes down quick and smooth and you just put it back between 2 and 4 when it gets close. You have to use 5-6 to raise it as well. It works much better than the system on my saw. Wouldn't the valve be more protected on the bottom?
Great Project - this is the best video you have ever done - bravo !!! WRT the check valve - did you dress the seat after drilling. Thanks again - much appreciated Rod
Nicely executed... Just wondering if your drill rod is polished, don't seems like it from the video, if not the O rings might wear faster and be prone to leaks... ;)
+pierre beaudry It is not, but I don't think it'd be an issue for the amount of use it gets. I wanted a polished rod but the difference in price was a lot so I went with the cheaper option.
OMG, I almost shut the computer off and went to bed thinking part two would come tomorrow. Sure glad I checked one more time to see this thing work. Do you have the specs of this project on paper? Congratulations on a great job ....Ken
PS: Do you have a preference in toolholders and inserts (the cheaper SHARS versions)? I'd be interested to know as I would like to try some without a second mortgage in my lathe work. Doug
How about adding a second needle valve (with the cross pin removed after it´s adjusted) to set the maximum speed? It´ll save you from being too cautous when opening the main one.
And/or use a 1/4 turn valve on the other end to act as a stop to hold the head in place while positioning the workpiece. Could even link it with a throttle/bicycle cable to a lever up on the head. Then he wouldn't have to mess with the feed valve.
I added a second circuit with a ball valve to allow raising the arm in place of the check valve... Also added a spring loaded split nut as a stop to hold the head while positioning the stock. Many ways to skin a cat! LOL
+Jason Lloyd Jason, I too thought about just drilling a hole through the center of the set screw, so I tried it. The problem I found was, the check ball will move to that location and stop the flow unless you add a small spring to keep the check ball away from the hole. I tried different springs but most were too strong, and I was concerned there might not be enough pressure to overcome the spring. Anyway I went back to the slotted set screw and it worked best for me. This project has taken on a life of it's own, but I love a challenge.
+Kenneth Bartlett Huh... yeah, I can see that. I guess I was following the train of thought that a light spring should do it, but tuning the spring strength could be a challenge I guess... you could also notch a plus shape in the end of the screw to provide flow, but then we're back to clamping the screw to make the cut... so the notch is probably simpler setup at that point. Good stuff!
Gregg, just an idea.... what about pinching the pipe that conducts the oil with an obstruction? The diameter of that would allow you a to set a maximum down-speed, regardless of the position of the valve.... Just an idea... Paddy
+hankus253 Thank you very much for the info about the Heim joint. I can imagine the reaction from some parts clerk when I ask for one of those thing'ys or whatchamacallits . I went online and looked it up and "yes", because I am building one of those units. This is what makes viewing these video so much fun. Like Greg says, learn something new every day.
+Kenneth Bartlett You're more than welcome, I've been in your position too many times myself. It's funny what we learn over time, and what sticks in the ol' noggin'.
Nice work Greg,
I also read that article and was unsure how much an improvement it would make but now i have seen how well it works it will be getting done to my saw.
I'm going to run a bypass around the needle valve and fit a small ball valve that way i can set the slow feed and leave it but just open the ball valve and i can drop the blade down near to the job fast .
Another irritating thing with the spring is if you lift the saw up after a cut and don't hang on to it the saw will flip up fast this has broken a few of the pivot brackets on these saws and i have had mine flip over backwards - fortunately with no damage .
Thanks for the effort to make this video !
+ian bertenshaw Yeah mine landed on it's back when I was moving it. Dented the motor fan cover in.
ian bertenshaw u
I've been planning to do this for awhile and you gave me the key I needed. The sink tailpipe for a smooth cylinder - DOH! Sometimes I get so tied up with the fiddley bits that I get brain farts on the obvious ones. Great job, Greg.
+Eddie the Grouch Thanks!
Very nice job. It works, and I didn't quite understand how the thing in the article worked until I saw the video. After that, it's all downhill.
I would have liked to see the layout especially for the cross linked holes to feed the fluid. This is a great project. Thanks for taking it on. Doug
Nice project. To make the check valve in the piston as good as leakproof, just hit the ball very light with a pin drive and hammer. It will create a perfectly formed seat around the rim of the hole for the ball to rest in. Cheers, Brian.
+Brian Petersen Didn't even think of that. I tightened the ball down tight with the setscrew but tapping it in didn't even occur to me.
+Brian Petersen Hi Brian, I am building this project and I used your idea of hitting the ball with a drive pin and hammer. It worked as stated, no runs drips or errors. Thanks for that idea. PS, I discarded that ball and used a new one in it's place.
+Kenneth Bartlett Good to hear that it worked out for you :-) To others, you can use the same ball you created the seat with, even in soft steel and stainless.
Nice! My new sort-of boss brought one of these over to the shop I work in because we are changing machines and the space is so tight that we are going from using 20' tubes (we make a lot of rings) to 40" in the new machine. So, for the first time, we actually need a hirizontal bandsaw. The only other one I've used was a nice one that probably costs around 8 or 9 grand so moving to this little guy is a bit cumbersome or whatever.
He said he doesn't waste the time on a hydraulic system for such a cheep saw but this looks easy enough to build and combining this mod with a simple coolant system would make this thing a real asset to a shop. A water bottle with a hole poked in it is about all that's needed, the cap will control coolant flow.
I think I'll send him the link. Thanks for the video.
Well done. An interesting project. A very useful retrofit for your metal bandsaw.
The cylinder system you added is the nicest part on that bandsaw. My buddy has one. He is always cussing it out.
Nice project. Thanks for showing the detail clearly. I'm looking forward to your next video.
That turned out great Greg! I'd designed a direct bolt on for my machine but never got around to building it. Using a tailpiece for the cylinder was a great idea. Good to see it worked out well- and it works! Take care, G.
+ghostses Thanks!
Terrific job man on the down feed control. Just got thru the whole series and the whole thing is the cats meow! Nicely documented and thought out. Great job on everything.
-Pidge
+PiDGE IAM Thanks!
great build, I can't wait to make one for my Delta 4x6, if you put a small ball valve after the needle valve you won't have to fiddle as much with the needle valve and be able to lock it in any position.
Thanks for the fun build video
+Phil's Projects Thanks for the tip!
Just stumbled on your channel doing some research on the SB 9A, as I'll be getting one in the next month or two. Really nice work on this project! Thanks for sharing!
Nice project.... I shall do likewise on my HBM saw.... It is smaller than yours, but I can scale this down a bit.
Two pro-tips :
1) open a bag of ball-bearings over a tray, pot or bowl
2) don't run with scissors
Cheers
Paddy
Greg, Just a fantastic build, this goes straight inti the must build folder, thanks for the Video. Regards Beagles. New Zealand.
Ur work is amazing, so precisely with so much details. I think u can fix anything and make good things. Thanks for sharing!!! I am learning a lot from u.
Easily your best build to date. Nice job, will be back to review when my lathe is back together to do this on my old Jet bandsaw. Thanks!
An inspiring build. Very well done !! Thanks.
One hell of a piece of nice work Halligan One hell of a nice piece!
That was a terrific build. Should make the saw more useful when cutting harder material.
Cheers,
Dave
its probably already been suggested, but I think I'd make a small knurled knob than can replace the rod on that valve. the length of it is what makes it so touchy. think about the circumference at the tip were your hand naturally grabs vs the circumference on the center pen. a smaller knob attatched with a set screw or just loctite will make it less touchy. and probably feel better on the hand as well. just one man's opinion. great video and clever mod.
+Mitchell Martin Good idea
so smooth and it will last for years!!!! Home made is the best!
Great build Greg. Thanks so much for sharing. My only complaint is where are the cat(s), I use to do body & fender work, and had a shop cat, that would sleep in the car(s) I was working on, all throughout the banging, grinding, etc. I miss that cat. (passed on from old age 17 plus years old.)
+Stanwood Dave Kitties aren't allowed in the shop without express supervision. All I'd need is for one of them to get a metal splinter and the wife would kill me.
That was a fun project. Nicely done.
Greg,
A super build! Really a necessary addition to your band saw. You sounded like a kid on Christmas morning when the unit worked flawlessly! Thanks for a very interesting and informative video. Have the fall colors hit the eastern seaboard yet? One of the days I would like to come to Boston. It is rich with history and it would be cool to meet you in person. Thanks again!
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat Tell you what. As payment for looking at my leafs you can rake them off the lawn :-) Boston is an interesting place. We just take it for granted and bitch about the traffic and road work.
Neat, that is similar to a Steering dampener, Nice job,,,Bravo.
Fantastic job, really enjoyed watching i just bought one of these saw's, I will have to have a go at making one like this. my lathe is smallish and not good at using parting tools for the O ring, without chattering as tool post is weak for that kind of work. Thumbs up to you :)
Thank you Greg I really do enjoy watching your videos.
Nice build! I'm thinking if you a build a new needle valve with a really fine thread, you will have better control.
Love the video, looks like it works very well. Now I know how to make mine work. :-)
If you want a needle valve with finer control, try your local hydraulics dealer. I used to work at one and there are cylinder speed control needle valves that offer an extremely fine rate of control for just this application.
Really nice job Greg!! When you spilled all the bearing when you opened the bag. Sorry Man but i lost it laughing. Don't know why , just found your reaction priceless. keep up the awesome work.
+Jerry Obrien :-) still finding bearings on the floor
+Jerry Obrien Yeah me too, just had to laugh.That's why I buy extra screws, bolts etc, for those that fall off the table, under the bench or into that black hole never to be seen again. Last week I bought a couple of taper pins for my lathe, and when I ordered a couple of extras just for that reason, the clerk just rolled his eyes.
+Kenneth Bartlett nice to know where not alone. lol
Nice build!
BTW: if you want to buy quarts of hydraulic fluid, try motorcycle fork oil, that you can get in different weights, eg SEA 5 (very viscous) to SEA 20 (heavy), the heavier the oil the less fiddly the needle valve will be. Just don't overdo it, because too thick of oil makes the whole sluggish..
Hi, very nice job, I lot of details in the construction and it all workt out very well. But sometimes you need a little more pressure on the blade while cutting. For example 3 inch round steel, then the weight of the arm is not enough for a good cut. It will just wobbel throu. But then again if you want perfection you should want to pay for it. Nice video I liked it.
Nice build! Your rod seems bit rough though, it may eat those o-rings pretty quick and start leaking. Thank you for a good video, I have to make one for my machine - I hate that spring tension system.
+filopat67 Yeah I didn't want to spend the extra cash for a polished rod. If it ever becomes an issue it'd be easy enough to swap.
+Halligan142 That's true. I also often use cheap parts as proof of consept and then upgrade them if needed, or leave them as they are if working.
Btw, don't you love those "Hahaa, it works!" moments? :)
+filopat67 Much more than those shit what went wrong moments.
Very nice mod. My neighbor works for Ellis band saw so he got me a cylinder from them and I mounted it vertically like they do on there saws. Just another way to skin a cat.
Good idea but I would put some hoses on it and run the control to the front with a dial in value and small pump so you can life and lower at different speeds. But I do like your idea and will copy it onto my saw later on for sure. Use hydraulic oil it will last you a lot longer and better to control I would recommend ISO68. And hey those knobs are nice would you make those and well them too?
Nice project and well done...
Nice job Greg. Thanks for sharing really enjoyed the job!
Nice job!! Get yourself some bi-metal blades. Expensive but they last a very long time if you're careful.
+Nicholas CeeA I have a decent irwin variable tooth blade on there. Works well.
I like your relief valve for lifting... but I find my saw annoying when coming down from full up to line up a cut or start a cut.I'd like to have a button to push. :)
My buddy has a large band saw with a cylinder on it. His adjustment valve acts in one turn and is numbered. It cuts on about 2-4 setting and if you move it to 5-6 setting it comes down quick and smooth and you just put it back between 2 and 4 when it gets close. You have to use 5-6 to raise it as well. It works much better than the system on my saw. Wouldn't the valve be more protected on the bottom?
Awesome work. You have a great skill
Great Project - this is the best video you have ever done - bravo !!!
WRT the check valve - did you dress the seat after drilling.
Thanks again - much appreciated Rod
+Newmachinist I just tightened the set screw down tight to seat it.
Nicely executed... Just wondering if your drill rod is polished, don't seems like it from the video, if not the O rings might wear faster and be prone to leaks... ;)
+pierre beaudry just my thought. commercial piston rods are mirror finish for a reason.
+pierre beaudry It is not, but I don't think it'd be an issue for the amount of use it gets. I wanted a polished rod but the difference in price was a lot so I went with the cheaper option.
i enjoyed that... thanks for making a video about it!
OMG, I almost shut the computer off and went to bed thinking part two would come tomorrow. Sure glad I checked one more time to see this thing work. Do you have the specs of this project on paper? Congratulations on a great job ....Ken
+Kenneth Bartlett Ken do me a favor and e-mail me @ halligan142@gmail.com
PS: Do you have a preference in toolholders and inserts (the cheaper SHARS versions)? I'd be interested to know as I would like to try some without a second mortgage in my lathe work. Doug
How about adding a second needle valve (with the cross pin removed after it´s adjusted) to set the maximum speed? It´ll save you from being too cautous when opening the main one.
And/or use a 1/4 turn valve on the other end to act as a stop to hold the head in place while positioning the workpiece. Could even link it with a throttle/bicycle cable to a lever up on the head. Then he wouldn't have to mess with the feed valve.
+Eddie the Grouch Now that's clever.
+Eddie the Grouch Good tip
Nice job Greg!
Very nice job. Thank you for sharing this.
Awesome job, nice, I'll give this a go sometime.
I added a second circuit with a ball valve to allow raising the arm in place of the check valve... Also added a spring loaded split nut as a stop to hold the head while positioning the stock. Many ways to skin a cat! LOL
Hey, why did you notch the valve screw rather than just punching through the center? Thanks for the video, great work!
+Jason Lloyd Hard to hold to machine or drill. Easier to clamp sideways in a vice and use a file for me at least.
+Jason Lloyd Jason, I too thought about just drilling a hole through the center of the set screw, so I tried it. The problem I found was, the check ball will move to that location and stop the flow unless you add a small spring to keep the check ball away from the hole. I tried different springs but most were too strong, and I was concerned there might not be enough pressure to overcome the spring. Anyway I went back to the slotted set screw and it worked best for me. This project has taken on a life of it's own, but I love a challenge.
+Kenneth Bartlett Huh... yeah, I can see that. I guess I was following the train of thought that a light spring should do it, but tuning the spring strength could be a challenge I guess... you could also notch a plus shape in the end of the screw to provide flow, but then we're back to clamping the screw to make the cut... so the notch is probably simpler setup at that point. Good stuff!
looks real good there...was there thought of using a gas shock with the original spring? best of both IMO :)
+Lawrence Harasim Yeah I looked into it, but figured it wouldn't add a whole lot of gain to the amount of fiddling.
Gregg, just an idea.... what about pinching the pipe that conducts the oil with an obstruction? The diameter of that would allow you a to set a maximum down-speed, regardless of the position of the valve....
Just an idea...
Paddy
+gh778jk Worth an experiment
Very nicely done! Thank you.
WELL DONE MATE !
That is really a nice touch. I want to do the same but using a storm door type. Do you think it would bend or hold up ?
It should. There are some people that have used one in pictures I've seen.
Awesome job !
A rubber or plastic washer instead of the check valve would allow a much faster lift.
Great project!
Nice mod.
Transmission fluid will eat the type of O rings you have in it, the motor oil would actually be better
29:22 -I love moments like those.
Hi mate. Nice one.
nice work,
Nice addition thanks for sharing :)
That rod end piece is known as a Heim Joint FWIW.
+hankus253 Learn something new every day :-)
+hankus253 Thank you very much for the info about the Heim joint. I can imagine the reaction from some parts clerk when I ask for one of those thing'ys or whatchamacallits . I went online and looked it up and "yes", because I am building one of those units. This is what makes viewing these video so much fun. Like Greg says, learn something new every day.
+Kenneth Bartlett You're more than welcome, I've been in your position too many times myself. It's funny what we learn over time, and what sticks in the ol' noggin'.
nice job great video-----------bob
Nice!
nice job :_:
"polypaks" instead of 'O' rings ..!!
Down feed is was to fast!