The cylinder worked great for a couple weeks but somehow the plunger seal failed inside the cylinder recently. I can't bleed it without drawing air into the cylinder.
Hi Andy, I purchased this kit not quite 2 years ago and have struggled to get it to stop leaking out of the T fitting where the tube leaves the fitting and goes into the speed valve. I have had this leak since installing it in the fall of 2021. I have replaced the T valve and tubing but it continues to leak. Any help would be appreciated. I am almost to the point of wanting to try and replace the plastic push fittings with compression fittings but have no idea what to buy. In all transparency, the kit is great but I think the plastic fittings and tubing don't hold up well in my garage in Phoenix where the temps get up past 120º since I don't have it air conditioned.
Ahh. Interesting. I was wondering how you were able to make that work being that the end without the pushrod is going to displace more oil than the end with. So you have a little bit of air in the system then.
A few days ago I refiled a similar system like this on my saw completely with oil. I could NOT figure out why the cylinder wouldn't move anymore. Until I have read your comments!! This was an eye-opener. Thank you for waking me up.
One more question, please. How far out does your assembly protrude from the side of the saw? I would want to add the extra washers for the lowered gauge as I do a lot of miter cuts too so what's the lateral protrusion distance? I assume maybe 3 inches at most? I want to be able to mount the saw on my stand so that your assembly will not protrude past the end of my tubing. Thus whenever nesting under my welding table the saw stand helps protect the SawCyl.
Can you please tell me the exact dimension of the end of the fitting from where your fingertip is at 9:46 to the end of the saws cast iron base. I'm hoping at least 1.5".. I'm currently building a custom base stand for this same saw (which I've owned for 5 years) and want to purchase your saw-cyl very soon. I'm guessing it is 1.25" to 1.75". I have an 18" (1.5"x 1.5" square tube) which sits under the saw so I'm trying to determine clearances before I tack on the tube and bolt mounts.
Nebadawn Engineering one more question please. How far out does your assembly protrude from the side of the saw? I would want to add the extra washers as I do a lot of miter cuts so whats the lateral protrusion distance? I assume maybe 3 inches at most?
I take it that the maximum of 250 PSI loading is only due to the fact that you are using plastic tube and push fit connectors ? I have sourced some and the max recommended pressure is 250 psi. Copper or steel lines and compression fittings would be many times that. Thanks or showing how to install and refill with oil your version. I would purchase your one, but I live in Australia and the postage and Import Duty would make it far too expensive, so I intend to build my own. Thank you.
I love your contact! Love this man! Keep sharing your ideas!
Derrick Archie haha Netflix is better than that scam shit
The cylinder worked great for a couple weeks but somehow the plunger seal failed inside the cylinder recently. I can't bleed it without drawing air into the cylinder.
The problem is most likely a bad check valve. I will send you a new one today.
@@nebadawnengineering8018 The new check valve did the trick. Thanks for the great product, it makes accurate cuts so much easier.
Hi Andy, I purchased this kit not quite 2 years ago and have struggled to get it to stop leaking out of the T fitting where the tube leaves the fitting and goes into the speed valve. I have had this leak since installing it in the fall of 2021. I have replaced the T valve and tubing but it continues to leak. Any help would be appreciated. I am almost to the point of wanting to try and replace the plastic push fittings with compression fittings but have no idea what to buy. In all transparency, the kit is great but I think the plastic fittings and tubing don't hold up well in my garage in Phoenix where the temps get up past 120º since I don't have it air conditioned.
Same issue up here in Seattle. Started leaking in the same spot almost immediately (used maybe 3 times when leak started).
Ahh. Interesting. I was wondering how you were able to make that work being that the end without the pushrod is going to displace more oil than the end with. So you have a little bit of air in the system then.
I thought hydraulics can't have air in the system or they would be spongy like car brakes.
The air is very important. The oil actually foams a little and it works great for this use. I don't notice any sponginess.
A few days ago I refiled a similar system like this on my saw completely with oil. I could NOT figure out why the cylinder wouldn't move anymore. Until I have read your comments!! This was an eye-opener. Thank you for waking me up.
One more question, please. How far out does your assembly protrude from the side of the saw? I would want to add the extra washers for the lowered gauge as I do a lot of miter cuts too so what's the lateral protrusion distance? I assume maybe 3 inches at most? I want to be able to mount the saw on my stand so that your assembly will not protrude past the end of my tubing. Thus whenever nesting under my welding table the saw stand helps protect the SawCyl.
It is about 3 ".
Can you please tell me the exact dimension of the end of the fitting from where your fingertip is at 9:46 to the end of the saws cast iron base. I'm hoping at least 1.5".. I'm currently building a custom base stand for this same saw (which I've owned for 5 years) and want to purchase your saw-cyl very soon. I'm guessing it is 1.25" to 1.75". I have an 18" (1.5"x 1.5" square tube) which sits under the saw so I'm trying to determine clearances before I tack on the tube and bolt mounts.
I measured from the face of the highest fitting by the gauge to the end of the casting where the crank is. It neasures 2 1/2 inches.
@@nebadawnengineering8018 Thank you. I'll email you in a day or so to show you the frame I'm building for this saw.
Nebadawn Engineering one more question please. How far out does your assembly protrude from the side of the saw? I would want to add the extra washers as I do a lot of miter cuts so whats the lateral protrusion distance? I assume maybe 3 inches at most?
I take it that the maximum of 250 PSI loading is only due to the fact that you are using plastic tube and push fit connectors ? I have sourced some and the max recommended pressure is 250 psi. Copper or steel lines and compression fittings would be many times that. Thanks or showing how to install and refill with oil your version. I would purchase your one, but I live in Australia and the postage and Import Duty would make it far too expensive, so I intend to build my own. Thank you.