Great set up! I've owned a propex for almost a year trying to figure out how to turn it into something useful, I think this is the route. Adventure Wagon has these "Aux box" boxes that I think would work prefect for this.
Thanks! Big fan of your channel. I have been happy with it so far. After watching your video on different size propane tanks I bought a 5 lb and 10 lb so I don’t have to lug the 20 lb tank. Trying to keep it simple and reduce weight.
@@carloszeigler thanks! Yeah I’ve recommended diesel heaters in the past but the leaking thing always has me worried it’s going to break open and spill everywhere while offroading. Got the propex December 2022 and haven’t been able to build anything. Might build this. Did the measurements on the ai box and it won’t fit so I’ll likely go this route.
I went with a similar idea. Main difference is my box is only a carrying case, not built as a complete unit, as I need the heater to be able to fit in both my pickup or use inside my Shiftpod tent. Also I went with the Propex HS2800 for more heating inside the tent. Headed out to try everything out on April 15. Testing out in the house, this heater performed flawlessly. I have missed the prime weather for seeing how it would perform in truly frigid conditions inside the Shiftpod, but maybe next winter. I plan on putting the entire unit inside my Shiftpod 3. I would like to have seen some performance data on how it worked with your Shiftpod in cold weather. Things like outside temps and conditions and how fast it warmed your Shiftpod, and to what temperature you heated it too. Still, I appreciate the info, especially since we have similar setups. I plan on making a video reviewing both the Propex heater and the Shiftpod as the main part of one of my camping kits. This setup, imo, is only good for when camping in the same place for several days at a time, the Shiftpod, the medium one, is just too heavy and bulky for overnight trips, where you are moving every day. For that, I needed a heater that I could put in my cramped 6.5 foot pickup bed and stay warm. Thanks for your video. Yours is the first I have seen using a Propex heater to heat a Shiftpod.
You are welcome! Thankfully the ShiftPod mini is easier and less bulky. I bought two Bluetooth connected temperature sensors by Govee, so I can log environmental data on my next trip. Their app plots temperature, humidity and so on vs time.
Nicely done 👌 Any issues with the shortening of the combustion intake/exhaust piping? The Propex documentation says not to modify the lengths of these or there could be operational issues due to differences in voltage calculations performed by the electronics.
Good question! I had the same concerns and asked around. I was told the exhaust duct length was not as critical as the intake. In my build I kept the intake duct longer which makes sure the flow is correct for combustion. So far it seems to work great.
For the wiring to the cigarette lighter plug, did you connect the negative dc of the plug to the neutral dc (white wire) of the propex? I’m not familiar with what is needed here. Never seen only a red positive and a white neutral. Any advice you could share on this would be great. I’m obviously not an electrician. 😂
Craig, great video. Question when you have a moment, did you have to add an additional brass fitting extension from the Propex heater brass output to the elbow connector or because it was such a tight fit, there was no extension needed to the outside of the box? Also, if you could ID an Amazon link to the referenced brass 1/4" US compression fitting "and" elbow fitting, that would be greatly appreciated. As w/ many DIY folks, the more info is made available, the better it is for those not too familiar w/ required propane/gas fittings.
@@jesmachuca I am not sure who Craig is, but I will answer your question thus: other than the quick connect fitting listed in the video description, I used standard brass 1/4 inch fittings available at any neighborhood or big-box hardware store. The correct use and installation of gas connections is beyond the scope of this video, and there are much more detailed resources out there if you need them.
What mount do you use to attach the thermostat to? My heater just arrived and I’m not sure what backplate to get to protect the circuitry on the back of the thermostat?
I agree the back needs protection. I mounted the thermostat to plywood. I finished the plywood with spray can bedliner. Let me know if this answers your question.
I have not detected any smell, and was looking for it since I know it can be an issue. They are intended for car heater ducting and seem to be better quality.
Karl, Like the video, I followed the link from my Expedition Portal post. How long does the portable power pack last, and any idea of how much propane you are using? Thanks Jeff Keep up the great work
Great question! I can go over the factory specs and then talk about the results of my limited field testing. For the power use, it uses 1.7 A (20 W at 12 V). So for my Renogy power pack, which is 72 Ah, it will last 42 hours of continuous running (more on that later). For the propane, the factory spec on consumption is 150 g/hour, which works out to 0.33 pounds per hour. If you had a 10 pound propane tank, it would last 30 hours of continuous use. Thing is, real world it will last longer because the unit has a thermostat and only comes on as needed to maintain the temperature of your space, and your propane and power consumption will be less or more depending on the set point of the thermostat. In my field testing, I set the temp for 65 degrees for a little over 12 hours using a 1000 Wh Jackery power pack and a 20 lb propane tank. When I was done I had used 23% of the battery or 230 W, and propane use seemed negligible for such a large tank. Hope that helps. I can do updates as I do more field testing.
Which regulator did you use to connect to the propane tank? And is there something between the hose you listed and the regulator or is the hose a direct connect to that regulator?
I purchased the regulator from VanCafe along with the Propex heater. You can choose it as an option. I believe it is made by Flame King and can be purchased from them as well. The hose fits and connects directly to the regulator without any adapters using Teflon thread tape.
Carlos: Thanks for this video. I was thinking of a smaller box but perhaps not now after seeing this. I decommissioned the same unit from a Tacoma install and now using a minivan am thinking of a box install. I’m wondering if you notice any excess heat inside the box when running it and do you close it completely when you do? I’m in the thinking stage and have a couple ideas for interior/exterior mount and use. Happy Trails. Rod
I had no issues with heat. The metal enclosure which makes up the Propex heater did not even get hot to the touch. The exhaust is the only hot area. Hope this helps.
I do have some questions if I may ask. I'll ask one at a time. What do you have on the inside of the box where the air ducting connectors are located. The black connectors are much smaller than the holes on the heater. Did you use ducting pipe on the inside to connect from the heater to the connectors? Thank you!
Correct. The flexible ducting actually goes inside the blue plenum (kind of screws in) on the heater for intake and exhaust, then each goes over the fitting and is held in place with a clamp as seen here ua-cam.com/video/IU5I3KLGrig/v-deo.htmlsi=umKXvMnNzNEvp1I9&t=624 Links to the fittings used are in the video details.
@@carloszeigler Perfect! Thank you for answering that question. I ordered everything, and it all arrived so fast that I am just now starting to figure it out. I was a bit freaked out, but like all things, just put one foot in front of the other. I see on the lower small exhaust you used the pipe that came with the heater. However, it is black, and mine is metal-looking. Did you wrap that pipe with something? The two big holes and the lower exhaust have piping inside the box, which makes it a little flexible when it comes to cutting the actual holes in the case. Did you mainly worry about the higher intake hole being exact since there is no flexible hose on that one? Of course, you need the big holes to be pretty accurate, I would think. Any tips if I do need to worry about lining up perfectly? How did you connect the intake Thru Hull to the heater? Did you bolt the heater to the bottom of the box? How did you connect the intake and exhaust pipe to the Thru Hull screw things? Did you just screw them into the pipe? If so, how did you secure the pipe to the Thru Hulls? Thank you so much for your help! It will be a relief to have something so safe, functional, and effective. I'm sorry I went ahead and put all my questions (I think) in this comment.
@@Niafifia The metal pipe is exhaust. Make sure you use the metal pipe here as the exhaust is very hot. The small nonmetallic pipe is combustion intake, I believe. For hole placement I just took my time and made pilot holes in exact centers before drilling. Use new hole saws intended for metal and go slow. It is a tight fit but everything is at right angles so you can get a good idea were to mark things. I agree, there is less error with the combustion exhaust so make sure you get its placement correct. There is some give in the heating and cooling ducts. The combustion intake thru hull is connected to the intake pipe using conventional screw pipe clamps. I glued a 1/2-inch piece of plywood to the bottom of the box and screwed the heater down through the holes in the side tabs of the heater intended for this purpose. Intake and exhaust use pipe clamps. For the exhaust make sure you use the heat-resistant silicone fitting with the clamps.
omg. I just lost my comment. I am being forced to ask for help again. I've ordered three different orders of propane fittings, waiting for them to come in, thinking I would have what I needed, only to find I didn't. Could you please help me again? Because I didn't want to bother you again, I found another video about it and started ordering those parts that don't fit the hose I had already ordered from your suggestion. I like your setup better anyway, so here I am reaching out again. #! I need help finding the fitting to adapt the regulator to your suggested hose. #2 On the heater end of the hose, I have the metric adaptor and ordered the elbow from Van Cafe. Did you use their elbow? If so, what part did you use to adapt the elbow to the quick connect?
@@Niafifia I used the fitting which came with the kit. I then connected it using a 1/4 in compression fitting to the quick connect listed in the description.
@@carloszeigler Thank you for the response. I see the quick connect hose in the description but not the fitting. I had ordered the whole list of parts.
@@carloszeigler, I decided to just order the hose that fits the Revere Overland description. That will fix my question about the fitting that goes to the regulator I ordered from Van Cafe as well as actually hooking up to the heater. I do so much DIY I always chalk up extra parts ordered to still money saved by doing it yourself.
Thank you for such a good video and for sharing your DIY job. It's really well done! You said your tent was wet. Did you mean on the outside or from condensation from the heater?
@@NiafifiaVery welcome. If you are talking about my opening discussion about Buddy Heaters, yes they made the inside of my tent wet. This was one of the reasons I moved to the Propex heater, since combustion is separate from the heated air and does not create a moisture problem. When I talk about the tent being wet at the end of the video it was from the rain outside the tent only. Inside was perfectly dry. I guess I should have been more specific. At any rate, once I got home I set the tent up again so the outside would dry, since it is never good to store a tent wet for long periods. Hope that helps.
@@carloszeigler This is exactly the information I needed to understand why it doesn't create condensation. I knew it didn't make sense (my wrong) at the end of the video, thinking you were somehow still ok with the heater if it caused condensation. I just didn't understand why it doesn't. I've been researching a lot, and this way is still the best I've seen. I just have to make up my mind to spend the cash! :) I'm sure I will. It is good for many reasons to have this. Heating a room in the house in an emergency. Heating frozen pipes. Enjoying to camp. I just talked myself right into it :) Thanks again!!
@@Niafifia It allows me to camp all year and provides comfort for my kids and dogs. Also, the forests are less crowded in winter. Yes it is not cheap but it will last a long time and is a good investment. Best.
I had the same concern, so I contacted a company which made a similar portable setup. They said they shortened the exhaust with no issue. So I did more research, and I determined it is important to make sure the intake is longer than the exhaust for proper combustion (it creates the necessary pressure drop). At any rate, I made the intake as long as possible. For the exhaust, I would say the biggest consideration is making sure it is heat resistant and is done in a way which dissipates the heat. This is why I used a box with metal sides. You can see the intake and exhaust in the video. Hope this answers your question.
Very cool. been looking for a propane heater like this for a LONG time. Thanks for detailing. Would love an update video...
Looks way more convenient than a diesel heater. More research needed!
Great video!! Good info and great job on the build!! Will be looking forward to more as to long term in the cold as you know we now live in very cold.
Thank you!
Here is a video of it used in negative temps. ua-cam.com/video/ntzt1O60xl8/v-deo.htmlsi=MxpCFumR5G5zzM5Y
Great setup and video! I have a diesel heater that I haven't set up yet, but I like this much better as a heater option.
Thanks! LMK if you have any specific questions.
I like that set up.
Great video. Great design. Thank you.
Great set up! I've owned a propex for almost a year trying to figure out how to turn it into something useful, I think this is the route. Adventure Wagon has these "Aux box" boxes that I think would work prefect for this.
Thanks! Big fan of your channel. I have been happy with it so far. After watching your video on different size propane tanks I bought a 5 lb and 10 lb so I don’t have to lug the 20 lb tank. Trying to keep it simple and reduce weight.
@@carloszeigler thanks! Yeah I’ve recommended diesel heaters in the past but the leaking thing always has me worried it’s going to break open and spill everywhere while offroading. Got the propex December 2022 and haven’t been able to build anything. Might build this. Did the measurements on the ai box and it won’t fit so I’ll likely go this route.
I went with a similar idea. Main difference is my box is only a carrying case, not built as a complete unit, as I need the heater to be able to fit in both my pickup or use inside my Shiftpod tent. Also I went with the Propex HS2800 for more heating inside the tent. Headed out to try everything out on April 15. Testing out in the house, this heater performed flawlessly.
I have missed the prime weather for seeing how it would perform in truly frigid conditions inside the Shiftpod, but maybe next winter. I plan on putting the entire unit inside my Shiftpod 3. I would like to have seen some performance data on how it worked with your Shiftpod in cold weather. Things like outside temps and conditions and how fast it warmed your Shiftpod, and to what temperature you heated it too.
Still, I appreciate the info, especially since we have similar setups. I plan on making a video reviewing both the Propex heater and the Shiftpod as the main part of one of my camping kits. This setup, imo, is only good for when camping in the same place for several days at a time, the Shiftpod, the medium one, is just too heavy and bulky for overnight trips, where you are moving every day. For that, I needed a heater that I could put in my cramped 6.5 foot pickup bed and stay warm. Thanks for your video. Yours is the first I have seen using a Propex heater to heat a Shiftpod.
You are welcome! Thankfully the ShiftPod mini is easier and less bulky. I bought two Bluetooth connected temperature sensors by Govee, so I can log environmental data on my next trip. Their app plots temperature, humidity and so on vs time.
Nicely done 👌
Any issues with the shortening of the combustion intake/exhaust piping? The Propex documentation says not to modify the lengths of these or there could be operational issues due to differences in voltage calculations performed by the electronics.
Good question! I had the same concerns and asked around. I was told the exhaust duct length was not as critical as the intake. In my build I kept the intake duct longer which makes sure the flow is correct for combustion. So far it seems to work great.
@@carloszeigler thanks - appreciate the quick response! 👊
Any updates on how it's held up in the storage box? I actually bought 2 Dometic boxes when they were on sale. This was an awesome idea who shared.
@@franciscomenendez6310 I hope to take it on more trips this winter and update on how well it stands up.
Sounds great! Can't wait to see/hear your results.
Thanks for doing this great video. Are you adapting this for a truck camper?
You’re welcome! I use it for my ground tent but it will also work for a RTT. For a camper I would recommend a more permanent install.
For the wiring to the cigarette lighter plug, did you connect the negative dc of the plug to the neutral dc (white wire) of the propex? I’m not familiar with what is needed here. Never seen only a red positive and a white neutral. Any advice you could share on this would be great. I’m obviously not an electrician. 😂
Yes that is correct! Red is positive and white is ground or neutral.
Thank you my friend!
Very cool and convenient. Great build
Craig, great video. Question when you have a moment, did you have to add an additional brass fitting extension from the Propex heater brass output to the elbow connector or because it was such a tight fit, there was no extension needed to the outside of the box?
Also, if you could ID an Amazon link to the referenced brass 1/4" US compression fitting "and" elbow fitting, that would be greatly appreciated. As w/ many DIY folks, the more info is made available, the better it is for those not too familiar w/ required propane/gas fittings.
@@jesmachuca I am not sure who Craig is, but I will answer your question thus: other than the quick connect fitting listed in the video description, I used standard brass 1/4 inch fittings available at any neighborhood or big-box hardware store. The correct use and installation of gas connections is beyond the scope of this video, and there are much more detailed resources out there if you need them.
@@carloszeigler My apologies Carlos; appreciate the timely response.
What mount do you use to attach the thermostat to? My heater just arrived and I’m not sure what backplate to get to protect the circuitry on the back of the thermostat?
I agree the back needs protection. I mounted the thermostat to plywood. I finished the plywood with spray can bedliner. Let me know if this answers your question.
@@carloszeiglerThat does! Thanks for sharing. I’ll do the same!
Do those air hoses give off any plastic smell when operating?
I have not detected any smell, and was looking for it since I know it can be an issue. They are intended for car heater ducting and seem to be better quality.
Karl, Like the video, I followed the link from my Expedition Portal post. How long does the portable power pack last, and any idea of how much propane you are using? Thanks Jeff Keep up the great work
Great question! I can go over the factory specs and then talk about the results of my limited field testing. For the power use, it uses 1.7 A (20 W at 12 V). So for my Renogy power pack, which is 72 Ah, it will last 42 hours of continuous running (more on that later). For the propane, the factory spec on consumption is 150 g/hour, which works out to 0.33 pounds per hour. If you had a 10 pound propane tank, it would last 30 hours of continuous use. Thing is, real world it will last longer because the unit has a thermostat and only comes on as needed to maintain the temperature of your space, and your propane and power consumption will be less or more depending on the set point of the thermostat. In my field testing, I set the temp for 65 degrees for a little over 12 hours using a 1000 Wh Jackery power pack and a 20 lb propane tank. When I was done I had used 23% of the battery or 230 W, and propane use seemed negligible for such a large tank. Hope that helps. I can do updates as I do more field testing.
Which regulator did you use to connect to the propane tank? And is there something between the hose you listed and the regulator or is the hose a direct connect to that regulator?
I purchased the regulator from VanCafe along with the Propex heater. You can choose it as an option. I believe it is made by Flame King and can be purchased from them as well. The hose fits and connects directly to the regulator without any adapters using Teflon thread tape.
Carlos: Thanks for this video. I was thinking of a smaller box but perhaps not now after seeing this. I decommissioned the same unit from a Tacoma install and now using a minivan am thinking of a box install. I’m wondering if you notice any excess heat inside the box when running it and do you close it completely when you do? I’m in the thinking stage and have a couple ideas for interior/exterior mount and use.
Happy Trails.
Rod
I had no issues with heat. The metal enclosure which makes up the Propex heater did not even get hot to the touch. The exhaust is the only hot area. Hope this helps.
I do have some questions if I may ask. I'll ask one at a time. What do you have on the inside of the box where the air ducting connectors are located. The black connectors are much smaller than the holes on the heater. Did you use ducting pipe on the inside to connect from the heater to the connectors? Thank you!
Correct. The flexible ducting actually goes inside the blue plenum (kind of screws in) on the heater for intake and exhaust, then each goes over the fitting and is held in place with a clamp as seen here ua-cam.com/video/IU5I3KLGrig/v-deo.htmlsi=umKXvMnNzNEvp1I9&t=624
Links to the fittings used are in the video details.
@@carloszeigler Perfect! Thank you for answering that question. I ordered everything, and it all arrived so fast that I am just now starting to figure it out. I was a bit freaked out, but like all things, just put one foot in front of the other.
I see on the lower small exhaust you used the pipe that came with the heater. However, it is black, and mine is metal-looking. Did you wrap that pipe with something?
The two big holes and the lower exhaust have piping inside the box, which makes it a little flexible when it comes to cutting the actual holes in the case. Did you mainly worry about the higher intake hole being exact since there is no flexible hose on that one? Of course, you need the big holes to be pretty accurate, I would think. Any tips if I do need to worry about lining up perfectly?
How did you connect the intake Thru Hull to the heater?
Did you bolt the heater to the bottom of the box?
How did you connect the intake and exhaust pipe to the Thru Hull screw things? Did you just screw them into the pipe? If so, how did you secure the pipe to the Thru Hulls?
Thank you so much for your help! It will be a relief to have something so safe, functional, and effective. I'm sorry I went ahead and put all my questions (I think) in this comment.
@@Niafifia The metal pipe is exhaust. Make sure you use the metal pipe here as the exhaust is very hot. The small nonmetallic pipe is combustion intake, I believe.
For hole placement I just took my time and made pilot holes in exact centers before drilling. Use new hole saws intended for metal and go slow. It is a tight fit but everything is at right angles so you can get a good idea were to mark things. I agree, there is less error with the combustion exhaust so make sure you get its placement correct. There is some give in the heating and cooling ducts.
The combustion intake thru hull is connected to the intake pipe using conventional screw pipe clamps.
I glued a 1/2-inch piece of plywood to the bottom of the box and screwed the heater down through the holes in the side tabs of the heater intended for this purpose.
Intake and exhaust use pipe clamps. For the exhaust make sure you use the heat-resistant silicone fitting with the clamps.
omg. I just lost my comment.
I am being forced to ask for help again. I've ordered three different orders of propane fittings, waiting for them to come in, thinking I would have what I needed, only to find I didn't. Could you please help me again? Because I didn't want to bother you again, I found another video about it and started ordering those parts that don't fit the hose I had already ordered from your suggestion. I like your setup better anyway, so here I am reaching out again.
#! I need help finding the fitting to adapt the regulator to your suggested hose.
#2 On the heater end of the hose, I have the metric adaptor and ordered the elbow from Van Cafe. Did you use their elbow? If so, what part did you use to adapt the elbow to the quick connect?
@@Niafifia I used the fitting which came with the kit. I then connected it using a 1/4 in compression fitting to the quick connect listed in the description.
@@carloszeigler Thank you for the response. I see the quick connect hose in the description but not the fitting. I had ordered the whole list of parts.
@@carloszeigler, I decided to just order the hose that fits the Revere Overland description. That will fix my question about the fitting that goes to the regulator I ordered from Van Cafe as well as actually hooking up to the heater. I do so much DIY I always chalk up extra parts ordered to still money saved by doing it yourself.
Thank you for such a good video and for sharing your DIY job. It's really well done! You said your tent was wet. Did you mean on the outside or from condensation from the heater?
@@NiafifiaVery welcome. If you are talking about my opening discussion about Buddy Heaters, yes they made the inside of my tent wet. This was one of the reasons I moved to the Propex heater, since combustion is separate from the heated air and does not create a moisture problem. When I talk about the tent being wet at the end of the video it was from the rain outside the tent only. Inside was perfectly dry. I guess I should have been more specific. At any rate, once I got home I set the tent up again so the outside would dry, since it is never good to store a tent wet for long periods. Hope that helps.
@@carloszeigler This is exactly the information I needed to understand why it doesn't create condensation. I knew it didn't make sense (my wrong) at the end of the video, thinking you were somehow still ok with the heater if it caused condensation. I just didn't understand why it doesn't. I've been researching a lot, and this way is still the best I've seen. I just have to make up my mind to spend the cash! :) I'm sure I will. It is good for many reasons to have this. Heating a room in the house in an emergency. Heating frozen pipes. Enjoying to camp. I just talked myself right into it :) Thanks again!!
@@Niafifia It allows me to camp all year and provides comfort for my kids and dogs. Also, the forests are less crowded in winter. Yes it is not cheap but it will last a long time and is a good investment. Best.
where is the air intake and exhaust. My set up required the super long exhaust hose and if you cut it down, they claim it would not work properly.
I had the same concern, so I contacted a company which made a similar portable setup. They said they shortened the exhaust with no issue. So I did more research, and I determined it is important to make sure the intake is longer than the exhaust for proper combustion (it creates the necessary pressure drop). At any rate, I made the intake as long as possible. For the exhaust, I would say the biggest consideration is making sure it is heat resistant and is done in a way which dissipates the heat. This is why I used a box with metal sides. You can see the intake and exhaust in the video. Hope this answers your question.
I just shared this in my Truck Camping group on FB. I want to contribute some money to you for passing this information along. Do you have a way?
@@Niafifia I do not at this time. Glad to help.
Are you selling these? It looks like that other company may have went out of business.
Sorry, I am not a vendor, but just a DIY guy. Best of luck.