Ultimate AV Famicom Mods Guide - NESRGB - Expansion Audio - IGR - Zapper Support
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Audio test demo: • Akumajou Densetsu - Pe...
Ace's expansion audio balance guide:
www.retrorgb.c...
Voultar's mod shop: voultar.com/
www.laserbear....
My Patreon page if you would like to donate (I'm not monetized on UA-cam):
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My web site: www.firebrandx....
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My apologies in that I forgot to set the 'hi-low' jumper on the IGR board. I didn't have any problems with it left floating for regular cart games, but caused compatibility issues with the Everdrive N8 Pro. It's supposed to be jumped to 'low' for AV Famicom installations. However, even with correcting this, the Everdrive N8 Pro still didn't like the IGR being used to handle reset functions, and I ultimately had to remove the wires involved with the reset circuit as well as restore the trace cut I made. The IGR board's in-game palette functions can still be used, just not the reset functions due to the conflict with the ED N8 Pro. This all of course doesn't matter with the newer NESRGB 4.0 boards as those have IGR built-in, making this board obsolete for those newer NESRGB boards. Cheers!
You must be reading my mind! I was just thinking about what the best way to mod my AV Famicom would be.
I just installed the v4 version. The IGR function and more color to use are essential. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! I've just about wrapped up doing every mod presented here. Castlevania 3 JP and Gimmick sound great! As I'm using a NESRGB V4.0, I'll be heading off to Tim's website for IGR instructions. As a side note, besides built-in IGR, a selling point for me with v4 was that your latest palette is the default one, so hooking up palette switching will be for posterity. Cheers
Hi Jon! Thanks! Actually even the 3.0 board uses my palette as well, so even if people get one of those, no need for firmware flash if they are on NTSC machines. PAL users would want "YUV" instead. Cheers!
This video really helped me out a lot. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
3:06 - That looks like a round pin socket to me. “Dual-wipe” sockets force the flat chip legs between two contacts that are under spring tension. :)
Great job clearly labeling everything!
Yeah I realized afterwords I was using the wrong term. My apologies.
Awesome guide! I found out with the newer 4.0+ RGB kits, you have to use the C15 capacitor, or you will have to reset the console every time you turn it on.
Thanks! Yeah I hadn't obtained a 4.0 board yet, but there are other great modders doing video installs of those. One of my favorites:
ua-cam.com/video/WhKlE08Muv4/v-deo.html
@FirebrandX I've watched a lot of his videos. Great stuff, for sure!
I'm curious how this battle's krikkz latest rgb-blaster.
You gave me the tip about buying a TCL TV. I'm very grateful. I use it now with the amazing MISTer. I still have my OSSC and consoles but they're getting less use. Since there are so many vertical shmups on MISTer, I'd like to try a TATE set-up using a TCL TV. But, the issue is how will a TCL TV which is not really designed to be in the portrait position cope with that? The TV I have is a TCL 50P615K 50" Slim 4K HDR LED Smart Android TV. I was thinking of buying something similar to this so I'd have one for normal gaming and one for TATE.
I don't think flat panels will have any issues with being in TATE orientation. No "liquid metal leaking issues" like with the CPU on the PS5 ;-)
@@RedArremer
Thanks buddy. It means a lot. I really got a great TCL TV. It only cost me about $300 (new) delivered. It doesn't object to anything from the OSSC and it works very nice with the MISTer. The only small complaint is the scanlines disappear a bit when the screen is scrolling vertically.
Thanks so much for this awesome video! I have watched it many times in preparation, but if you don't mind I have a couple questions for you before I start.
At 1:09 can you explain why you removed Q1? I don't see a mention of removing Q1 in Ace's guide on RetroRGB and I also don't see it mentioned in any of the NESRGB installation instructions.
At 2:32 you talk about adding back in the electrolytic capacitors. C1 doesn't get replaced because of Ace's audio mod and you talk about how C15 shouldn't be there, but you didn't mention anything about why you didn't replace C5. The NESRGB instructions say that this capacitor gets in the way of the NESRGB board and that you should re-install it on its side but is this capacitor even necessary? Will it add noise or anything if I add it or should I just leave it unpopulated like it shows in your picture?
Thanks again for this awesome guide and I can't wait to get started!
Hi there! Both Q1 and C5 aren't needed as they are part of the original composite video circuit. Leaving them removed makes for less chance of unwanted noise and an easier install of the NESRGB board.
Also I'm going to pin a comment in that I forgot to set the 'hi-low' jumper on the IGR board. I didn't have any problems with it left floating for regular cart games, but caused compatibility issues with the Everdrive N8 Pro. It's supposed to be jumped to 'low' for AV Famicom installations. However, even with correcting this, the Everdrive N8 Pro still doesn't like the IGR being used to handle reset functions, and I ultimately had to remove the wires involved with the reset circuit on the IGR board and AV Famicom, and restore the trace cut I made. The IGR board's in-game palette functions can still be used, just not the reset functions due to the conflict with the ED N8 Pro. This all of course doesn't matter with the newer NESRGB 4.0 boards as those have IGR built-in, making this board obsolete for those newer NESRGB boards. Cheers!
Firebrand, also one other thing...If I have the audio restoration mod on my Famicom AV, do you know what sound profile I should be selecting in the everdrive n8 pro? The options are famicom, famicom av, or nes 47k mod?
Great video! I was wondering if anyone had a good recommendation for a high quality scart cable to use with my modded av famicom? Also does the NA zapper support mod mess with any features of the 2nd controller port? Thanks!
Whats the reason for cutting the reset function trace? Just curious. I have the v4 of the NESRGB board and in the online directions from Tims website it doesnt mention it. The v4 board only has the RO function pad. But his directions for the AV famicom show pictures of the Top Loader NES for some reason.
It has to be done for this specific IGR mod. Please use whatever instructions Tim has until such time as I can get a version 4.0 board to do a new video on with audio balance restoration. Cheers!
I just purchased an AV Famicom with NESRGB V4.0 + audio restoration mod + recap + new voltage reg. I'm having background audio buzzing issues though...weirdly, when I either disconnect my retro-bit N30 wireless pad receiver, OR place my hand near the controller ports, the buzzing stops. I'm using a triad psu, and shielded SNES RGB cables. Any advice you could give wouyld be amazing as I know you are very busy firebrand.
The problem is you're using 8bitdo transceivers. They are notorious for leaking noise into analog consoles due to improper shielding. The Joyzz transceiver doesn't have this problem from what I'm told, but for NES, what you can do is get an extension cable to relocate the transceiver about 14 inches or so away from the console. That will still allow you to use your wireless controller without having noise leaking into the audio.
@@RedArremer You sir are awesome. I actually already purchased an extention cable about 10 mins ago as that was my next logical step! Thank you so much for the input.
Great video,thank you. I just bought an AV Famicom that I plan to restore and then mod with the v4 NESRGB kit. I have a few questions though if you don't mind clarifying.
First -- At 1:18 you mentioned de-soldering and removing the DC input power jack, then you solder it back in later in the video. Why?
Second -- At 7:02 you mention cutting the PPU legs flush with the NESRGB board so as to not have to use another riser/socket. Is there any particular benefit to that? I didn't see a mention of that in Tim W's AV Famicom install notes.
Third -- At 8:28 you start detailing how you drilled out around the ground vias on the multi-out to remove CPU noise. I'm terrified of getting a drill anywhere near one of these boards, so how bad is that noise? Just trying to see if the reward is worth the risk.
Fourth -- At 13:18 you mention that in-game reset is integrated into the v4 board on the NESRGB kit. Do you still have to leave C15 unpopulated on the AV Famicom's motherboard?
Finally, at 14:55 you mention that for the controller wires for in-game reset and palette switching, you cut the trace for the reset signal. I'm having trouble matching this up with the AV Famicom NESRGB 4.0 notes on Tim Worthington's page, however (etim.net.au/nesrgb/NESRGB40.html). What was the reasoning behind this?
Thank you again for all you do for the community. Your Triad PSU and NES palette research have been invaluable to the retro gaming and modding community.
Hi there. Lets see if I can get these Q's all knocked out:
First Q --- It was the easiest way to get to the Multi-AV port. I don't recall if the plastic plate can easily be removed without desoldering the DC jack and just removing the whole unit as-is.
Second Q --- No, you don't cut the PPU legs. You cut the board-to-board posts flush at the top and fill with solder. As seen later in the video, this allows the PPU to sit flat to the board without needing another machined socket (note of course I used the wrong term of "dual wipe" when I was talking about the machined sockets).
Third Q --- It is VERY much worth doing for clean AV. It was my first time, and it was easy. Just make sure you use a drill bit not too large, but large enough to scrape away the ground connections to those Vias. Obviously don't go too fast or deep.
Fourth Q --- You'd need to ask Tim Worthington about this specifically when it comes to the 4.0 board.
Last Q --- It looks like Tim took a picture of a Top Loader there, but it definitely does not match the layout of the AV Famicom. Again, you would need to contact Tim for clarification on 4.0 board installation. For 2.X boards like the one I featured here, the trace has to be cut in order to allow the IGR board to take control of the reset function (in other words, it uses that break in the connection in order to close it with the chips on the IGR board itself).
It might be best to look up installation videos that are known correct for NESRGB 4.0 in the AV Famicom for questions about that model. Tim's instructions can often be difficult to follow.
@@RedArremer thank you for the clarification
@@RedArremer what style/type of drill bit works best?
Is the Audio Balance Restoration still relevant on the 4.x RGB boards?
Indeed it is still required. Nothing on the audio side was changed in the 4.0 board. Cheers!
@@RedArremer thanks for the reply. Great video 👍
Do you intend to sell the "SNES DA RW" kit again?
Cirrus Logic killed off the processors used in those kits. Have to design a new one using a Texas Instruments processor. Eventually I'll get back to that.
Thats suxs
@@RedArremer In this case I will wait for you to redo the project so that I can maintain the Super Nintendo that I got from my brother-in-law. I live in Brazil but I appreciate your work, I use all your settings recommendations on my Nt Mini Noir, Super Nt and Mega Sg.
@@RedArremer I love mine and got a Marrantz to run audio from my SNES using it sounds amazing
The games are like quarter of the price of pal carts for same game il never buy pal or us carts again what a rip off