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HOW TO- Husqvarna 340 345 346xp 350 351 353 carburetor replacement
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- Опубліковано 7 лис 2017
- Just swapping carbs on a husqvarna 351. This video's applies to all saws in this series with no primer bulb. Like and subscribe
Thanks man, saved at least 60€ with your video.
Don't listen to ANYONE who criticizes your generous videos ! . In former life I had a fancy-cloths corporate job for 27 years but my heart was always leaning toward chainsaws and general equipment . On my 25Th anniversary my wonderful boss told my angelic secretary to buy me an expensive watch as a gift . I cautiously advised :: " I'm not really the fancy watch type " . He suggested night-vision binoculars . I had same ( but polite ) response . Boss advised secretary - " oh for heavens sake , ask him what he wants and just send me the bill " . I wanted a new Husky saw . Everyone laughed . They arranged a big formal dinner at a nice place and at the appropriate time the waiter in his "Tux" , brought out my wrapped-up gift . You can imagine the reaction of all the other classy customers in the dining room . ----- Me ?? I was as happy as could be Haha !!!
If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask I eat and sleep chainsaws for a living
Great video! No extra or unnecessary garbage. Thanks.
Really helpful video! I would not have had confidence to change out the carburetor on my Husqvarna without this. The saw is back up and running like new now.
Great video...followed it every step...put new carb in my chin saw and fired right up..thanks so much!
great video. Replaced the gas line and fuel filter along with the carburetor and air filter and spark plug. Saw runs now and there is not fuel dumping out when I am refueling the saw. Thanks for all of your help and knowledge.
why was the fuel dumping out
Great Video ,
Short and to the point ,Thanks
Well done video. Thanks from Germany
Merci beaucoup! Je ne savais pas comment commencer.....😘
As a small engine shop owner..Nor Cal. I look at other Mechinics. Very good video my man.
Thank you I appreciate that! Where in nor cal? I lived out there for a couple years many moons ago
Little town in mendocino county.. 80 an plum, 80 miles out , plum back in the sticks. Chainsaws & shotguns...
@@johnharlan1757 I was in the arcata/ eureka area
Thats a couple a hours north of me. Little town doesn't have a stoplight. 1 gas station. Little two horse town known as laytonville.
Yeah I wasnt meant for California but it is absolutely beautiful out there!
Great job brother I also repairing chainsaw for 15 years
Thank you , what a wonderful video . I took my saw to a Stihl dealer , they said it needed a new carb and the carb was too difficult to replace . I was on my way to throwing the saw away before I watched your VERY logical and helpful video . PS: If I had an e mail address I could tell you a very funny chainsaw story .. Many thanks . Johnnie C . Nova Sotia Canada
Your just north of me I'm in maine, thank you for the feedback I have some big changes coming and with those changes will be more videos eventually, right now filming while I work isn't ideal because my boss pays me to fix stuff not adjust camera angles hahaha
Thank you 🙏 Very helpful
This was excellent. Changed out my 20-year-old Husky 351 carburetor with your good video! Now...Having a hell of a time getting the throttle rod to engage in the handle? How does it sit in the handle? So far, mine pushed but will not engage back and forth. Thanks for sharing and "no big deal" - Lol.
Well, that was easy. Thank you very much.
Thanks Friend.
I've got a carb on the way and was looking for an idea of what to look for.
Take care.
::subbed::
Thanks for the info. Only bit I found fiddly was the throttle linkage and bellows, but all good now.
Useful video as it is not that obvious how to remove the carb. I have a problem with my 340 so I wanted to blow out the drillings etc. It is not revving as high as it should and after a few minutes use it won't tickover. When it is almost out of fuel the revs go much higher but there is no power. The cleaning made no difference, although I have not yet tried a new fuel filter. I think if it was fuel starvation it would run like it does when the fuel is running out.
Could be a high speed adjustment, I don't advise people run them out of gas, they lean out for that small amount of time and after awhile can cause issues, these saws are notorious for airless, I'd try turning the high speed screw in a whisker
Hey thanks bud for the how too video
No problem, if there is any you want to see made don't hesitate to say so and ill try and do one
THX very much
Thanks for posting this
Good man.. subscribed..
I'll be replacing my 345 carb soon..
Floods immediately after start.. wont idle.. I'm thinking needle and seat issues..
If its putting out to much gas and the diaphragm isn't stiff check the height of the metering lever that moves the needle up and down if it set to high that will happen it should be flush with the carb body and you set it by holding down gently on the needle and bending the lever wherever it should sit
great vid. do you happen to know why my idle screw wont sit? Its moving clockwise or counter clockwise when i rev the saw up, preventing me from having a good running saw :/ there is also no spring attached to these saws on the screw . hmm
Chances are vibration has made the threads a little loose just put a drop of loctite on it and let it dry before using it
Vreau sa anulez pompa de șpriț (primerul).
O sa mearga ?
Thanks a lot
Nice 👍 ty and I like and subscribed
Have a bless day
Thank you
Getting a lot of air in my bulb and lines on my husqy 240. There is a tiny hole at the bottom of the carb. Cover it no fuel in bulb. All together it starts and runs but you have to feather it to get it up to speed.
Bubbles in the primer are normal, the hole in the carb cover is also normal, try turning low screw out a small amount they are adjusted lean from the factory to hit epa emissions
Thanks for this video. I was wondering, the limiters on the high and low needles, are they necessary or will it be OK without them. I put them back on after I cleaned superficially the carb (EL32) but having trouble starting and going to take it off again and want to take the limiters again permanently off. where should I start my settings on the H, L, and TAS before cranking. Thanks
The limiters are basically only there so someone who doesnt know how to adjust a carb cant hurt there machine by leaning it out, and for them to stay epa emissions compliant
Did not see any gaskets on the carb. Did I miss that or do you not use the carb gaskets? Thanks for the vid and the info.
They dont use gasket they seal to the rubber intake boot
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks for the quick reply. I’m working on my 353 and it was bugging me.
Great video, I was able to clean the carb and cut a load of wood BUT the next day the throttle on handle would not depress. Maybe the trottle rod wasn't reinstalled correctly and broke something inside the handle. Is there a video to take handle apart? Or could you help with that?
I can get working in one, I've been neglecting my page lately maybe I'll do a whole series on these saws
Usually what happens is the top left vibe mount on the tank comes out and the throttle rod gets stuck on the outside of the handle
Yea, you should 😁
TallFarmBoy has a video on the throttle fix. I just watched it because the plastic end on my throttle linkage came off inside the handle when I was pulling it out for the second time
and it was easy after watching his video.
@@doug3805 In the 2 years since posting, I did find his video and watch. Thanks for the heads up, though.
I have a 340 and it runs perfect until I put the top back on then it shuts off like it doesn't get any air I have cleaned the air filter and even tried putting the top back in without the air filter on it and it still shuts right off just like if I put my finger over the carb air intake. Any suggestions?
Marcus Black are there any breaks in your plug wire? The wire practically rests on cylinder fins when the cover is on. I know your leaning towards carburetor but that's the easiest guess I have. Unless the the port for the air injection is clogged and also check the flap for cold weather use inside the cover
The chainsaw addict yes I had forgotten I made this comment and you're correct I put a new plug wire on it and it runs like a champ. Thank you for answering my question though your help is much appreciated.
The chainsaw a ddict io v..mjopm
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@@swordsman27376 hey Marcus, got a 340 husqvarna doing what sounds like this same issue. Been using all winter up in Michigan. But other day it just started dying on me. It'll fire, but won't stay running at all. If touch throttle or not it just poof dies. Was that plug wire tricky? I see mine runs down into the bottom case rite by where the pull rope coils up kinda. Any advice is great! Could be carb, but wanna try both. Was my grandpa's thats gone now and have to keep it going. Ty!
What kind of allen head impact bits are they?
I order mine through echo, any echo dealer should be able to order them they have 4 sizes 3,4,and 5mm and also t27
Why no gasket nor sealant? I have an air leak, revs high then dies.
The lip of the intake boot (bellows) is the gasket, depending which variation of the saw you have I'd bet $5 it's the impulse nipple inside the boot
You definitely don't want to put sealant in between the carb and boot they are made without it for a reason
it would help if your hands and arms did not block the view thanks
question.. I have two husqvarna saws. on my 425, when the saw isn’t running, I am able to spin the chain over the bar with no effort at all. however, on my 350 I have to pull the chain to get it to move over the bar and when I pull, there is a clicking noise coming from the clutch area. I cannot figure out what the problem is
350 has the wrong pitch chain on it, it probably takes a .325 pitch and has a 3/8th pitch
Or the clutch drum is worn
@@Coakleyfixedit207 thank you for the reply. I should have been specific regarding the clutch. I have replaced the drum itself and it has the correct chain. Even when i remove the bar, I can try to turn the clutch assembly and it will still make the clicking after each turn
Was it an OEM clutch drum? Was it doing it before you replaced it?
@@Coakleyfixedit207 it wasn’t running when I got it. the original clutch drum wasn’t even one piece. it was so wore out the teeth the chain sits on separated from the drum. I have ordered two since then. Maybe the brand isn’t good?
Anyone know the setting exactly
There is no "exact" setting. Your elevation, air filter, fuel filter, fuel mix and climate all factor in what is the right "sweet spot" for your carb settings
I did this and the plastic end of my throttle that relates to the trigger came off inside the throttle handle.
I don't think I've seen one of those come off the throttle rod before that's kinda neat
@@Coakleyfixedit207 I watched another video that showed how to get it out of the handle. You just pry the handle apart where the throttle release is on top of the handle just enough to pull the throttle release out and you can get it out easily and then just pop the throttle release back in. I’m not sure “throttle release” is the correct name for it but it isn’t the trigger but the part that sits under you palm when you are holding the handle to use the saw. Thanks for your video, it really helped me.
@@doug3805 it's called the "user present switch"
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks
Hilarious. Putting the throttle rod back with your hands completely obscuring what you are doing. Did you ever watch the video?
If someone needs a lot of help putting the throttle rod back on, they probably should just go to the saw shop.
Thanks i would have broke something
Can't see everything, bad angles
see my newer video with a 359 its the same setup better angle
Bad camera work dude.