2002 BMW K1200RS Final Drive Ball Bearing Replacement Part 2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 12 лип 2014
- I received all the parts this week and in this video they get installed. I used a couple of tricks involving cooling down the crown gear assembly and heating the bearings in the oven. Support Hack A Week with a donation: hackaweek.com/hacks/?page_id=31
Thanks for watching and keep on hackin! - Авто та транспорт
Great video Dean. Better than any shop manual could illustrate. The chisel worked just fine without damage. Way to go for us folks without a press..
Truly a spectacular video, a lesson on how to change the transmission bearings. Thank you.
Yet another great video. I do like what you were saying about using tools that the everyday shade tree mechanic would have or could buy pretty cheaply. Why cant I have somebody like you living next door. Keep the videos coming because everybody loves them.
Awesome video! It's great that you highlight a lot of the tricks that some of us take for granted. Keep it up!
Great guide, has definitely given me a little more confidence with my rebuild!
Thanks for the straightforward how-to on this job. I'll go ahead and do mine now!
I own a BMW gs 1200 2012 DOHC and I have stored your video because I like how you work. It can be useful for my final drive. It is a delicate job !!
Using a hydraulic press if you have access to one... free. Giving your viewers an alternative that is readily accessible to everyone... priceless! :)
Great job Dean.
So far so good - All the tips have worked! Crown in freezer overnight - will let you know tomorrow how it went!!
Thank You! I have the same bike and will be confident to do this repair myself now.
Great Job 🤙🏽
Really good shooting Dean - crisp, well-lit, nicely cut and well-styled. As the 'other' wrenching expert says, in the UK, regarding bearing assembly : - "Temperature Difference Is Your Friend." e heats one item in the MICROWAVE, not the normal oven, for speed, and chills the other mating part as you did, in the domestic freezer. Great stuff. And saves Loadsamoney.
Superb video, thanks. My KRS is running great but I know one day I'll have to fix the final drive and having seen you rebuild yours will help me.
Thanks for the video, used it as a guide for my 94 1100GS
Very nice video. Finally I know what my garage did when fixing this.
Dude - I love your videos! Thank you for what you do!
Following up. In my situation with a recently purchased 1988 K75S, the final drive unit was removed to accommodate a variety of repairs. Having the final drive unit on the work bench made difficult bearing removals easier. I marvel that Dean pulled the tapered roller bearing outer race from the drive housing while working at floor level. I used similar versions of the two bearing puller tools in the video. It was necessary to grind the tips of the pilot bearing puller used for the outer race. Even so, there was barely any accessible inner diameter bearing race for the tips to grasp. There was tremendous benefit to heating the aluminum hub with an electric heat gun. Prior to heating, the race wouldn't budge. I was impressed at how fast the heat propagated through the aluminum housing. A 1200 or 1500 Watt hair dryer will probably work. As it was, the process was not smooth and easy like in the video. It actually required three heating and pulling cycles. The pilot bearing puller was used in the 1st and 3rd cycle. The same puller used to remove the the inner tapered bearing race, with the arms rotated 180 degrees so fingers pointed outward, was used in the 2nd cycle. The key ingredients to success were patience and very good lighting. It was not disturbing that multiple heating and pulling cycles were necessary. I'd learned from another video that used a tree stump as a work bench that this is sometimes required. All in all, my results would not have come so easily or be as satisfying without Dean's video.
Awesome video.... Very detailed. I love watching your videos! I'm already looking foward to next weeks video.
Awesomness! Will be launching into this very soon. Thanks so much.
I really like your videos!! Nice job Dean.
Cheers from Florence, ride safe dude!
always a pleasure watching your vids, great info and thanks fro sharing
Thank you so much. Most useful and informative videos (1 & 2).I will have to do the same job on my 1992 BMW K100RS 16v. Not sure I will tackle the smaller roller bearing unless I have to. By the way the K1200RS looks amazing. Goes like a rocket, I imagine.
man the correct tools make a world of difference
great vid thanks!!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO !!! I just bought an 03 k1200rs , love the looks and performance, I do little mickey mouse oil, filters on my hd and my r1200rt, but your a 100% better wrench than I, plus I really don't have the compressor, room, etc. to do this myself. WELL DONE !!!!
The only step I would have done missing in your demonstration would have been the following:
1. leave the crown seal off till the end.
2. temporarily reassemble the unit without the shims in place and use a couple of lug bolts with the taper washer removed.
3. set a machinists dial (Harbor Freight type good enough) and measure the gap the crown bearing can be raised when applying a fulcrum pressure on the lug bolts. After several agreeing measurements and pressing the crown gear back down firmly determine the gap.
4. mic out the shim(s) thickness. The total you can raise the crown gear - the play with the shims installed should be . 0.07...0.16 mm so you have to do a little math to subtract the play you get minus the shim thickness.
5. disassemble and put the correct amount of shim thickness to get to that tolerance and reassemble.
6. install the crown rubber seal and spray with brake cleaner for lubrication...work fast, it evaporates quickly. Open drain plug to let the remaining brake cleaner evaporate before adding gear lubricant.
BMW used the wrong amount of shim thickness on a lot of these final drives causing premature failure. On top of that, a couple of bearing supplier changes throughout their run might give you a different thickness race than the shims were meant for. If the pre-load is too tight, the bearing will fail. I am replacing my crown bearings after 128,000 miles. If your original bearing lasted 75-100K then probably good enough to measure the thickness of the race of the new bearing and the old and account for any difference in shim changes. If your bearing only lasted 20K then there is a reason it failed so quickly. If you fix the reason for failure it will last a long time.
Robert, make your own video.....
Checking the kng bearings for size is what I did..
Also the shim size runs from. 0.05 to 0.60 ... mine was at 0.38.. it also depends on the bearing... After removing the bearing the spacer size had changed to 0.13.... after some 10k miles I starting getting a bit of slop and returned that larger, 0.38 mm spacer, taking up the slop and Im now in the 68k miles later with zero problems..
I second this, although I used the inch-pound measurement method with the unit assembled to get my proper bearing preload set. This is how it's done in the entire automotive industry; BMW just uses the bizarre, inaccurate fulcrum-lever 'measurement' method in an attempt to be different from everyone else. My original shim was 0.50mm; I used a 0.15mm which achieved a preload of 15-20 inch-pounds. The 0.50mm was way, way too tight, and at 91k miles it was the second time my bike's FD had been rebuilt (prior owner had it done at about 60k). I expect this one to last longer.
Bizzmark It is not done that way in the entire auto industry. Many applications use measured clearance and then calculations to determine the shim size needed for correct bearing preload. Here is an example from Porsche. www.porscherepair.us/porsche-993-repair/determining-total-shim-thickness-stot.html
The rotational torque method is easier, but is fraught with error due to variance in rotational drag due to variables such as lubricant viscosity, which varies greatly by temperature, seal drag, etc. The BMW method, done properly, is more precise. The rotational torque method is easier, but less precise. This video is a poor video as it does neither. Re-using the prior shims almost guarantees that the new bearing will suffer the same fate as the original. My original FD failed at 27,000 miles. My professionally rebuilt (by a well known BMW specialist) is going strong at 50,000 miles. I just changed the lube and the old lube came out very clean after 20,000 miles and the magnet on the drain plug had almost no debris on it. It has been pretty well established that these bearings fail early due to improper shimming during manufacturing. Doing a bearing replacement as shown in this video simply perpetuates the error to the next bearing.
Man, your vids are really good, thanks!
great video,just done the same job on my K1100LT which has an identical final drive,but I only needed to use a 2 legged puller to remove the taper roller bearing and the race which was pressed into the casing,no need for the pilot bearing puller tool used at 4.20
Thank you very much. Really helped me to do the job.
That freezer/oven trick is so cool! I always knew that that's how it's supposed to work (I'm a physics/engineering student) but i never actually tried it or seen it done before. I always just kinda thought in the back of my head that there was some disconnect between the theory and the actual application of the theory.
Just did this on an R1150RS only difference is the rotor is part of the tire rim assembly and an ABS sensor. Worked like a charm. Your video spot on. Not a big technically demanding job, just focus. Be meticulous with the cleaning not a speck left behind. I cleaned the crown gear first, turned the oven on 200 put bearing in, placed crown gear into the deep freeze (0 degrees F). Bearing slid right on, not a tap needed. Cleaning took a couple hours. bearing cage had failed, totally stripped out gone. Metal everywhere, even jammed under the ball bearing race. Also kept blowing everything off with compressed air. Took3/4 gallon (3L) of paint thinner to clean everything and several old T shirts. My two cents. Do more Videos you teach well.,
Congrats again, Dean. Love watching you tinker with bikes. If you can't find the puller to remove the tapered roller race, lay a weld on the surface the rollers run on, about 180 degrees around (eg: half the race), it will fall out. Cheers from Australia.
Good tip! I've done that on valve seats in cylinder heads. Thought about trying it here but it's a tight space.
Thank you for your time.
excellent video Jim from Vacaville, Ca
I love this Guy!
Thank you so much for sharing your videos. I own a BMW GS 1150 Adv. and I am very happy with it but I am also afraid for when it will come the time for the clutch, or rear drive replacement, because the cost per hour in a oficial workshop here in Barcelona, Spain is about 6 times what I earn per hour with my job. Simply crazy. So thanks again for your videos because they are pure gold.
Brilliant video Dean thanx. It shows how having the right tool at hand really make a difference. It would be great next time you use your torque wrenches if you'd mention to the viewers the importance of returning/winding the torque setting back to 0 to avoid leaving the internal spring in a stressed state while in storage. This can effect the torque setting for future jobs and knock it out of calibration. Not by much granted, but that depends on how old it is lol
Dean, long time BMW owner. Not to nitpick but there have been a number of articles to why of rear drive failures caused by improper shimming/preload from the factory. As another commenter mentioned, the shim pack changes with ea. rear service. 3 techs that know the secret are Ted Porter BMW, Bruno's BMW and Tom Cutter of Rubber Chicken Racing. Most that have had dealers do this have premature failure.
Thanks for the video. Great help.
Thanks, Love your Videos.Greetings from Germany, World Champion Football 2014
I'm of German descent and I'm STOKED that Germany won!!
Really great videos, thank you for sharing.
Толково рассказал и показал. Молодец!
Hi Dean, Interesting watching. The 2002 K1200RS Final Drive looks near identical to a 2002 R1150RT Final Drive, so thanks for your video, I'll look at saving myself $1500 for a Reconditioned Exchanged Final Drive for my 2002 R1150RT and have a go doing it myself.
Thanks Man.
Grant
Sydney Australia.
Great video, thank you.
Nice work!!
Well done
Awesome job
great job , congrats and thanks.
Do it yourself, for me it's essential, otherwise i could not effort a motorbike. And it makes your motorbike much more like a real hobby.
AND you know EXACTLY what was done and why. :)
***** To keep the machine in the right technical shape, gives a good feeling!
Beautiful motorcycle thanks for the info my k100rs needs this very bearing
No problem 👍
Nice job, and Thank you !!
Thanks, great job!...
Awsome. Thanks!
The oil 75W-90 : this oil has weight 90 so its in line with the Clymer manual that says weight 90. 75W-140 has a weight of 140 and they will use this when they ride in a hot climate but beware that thicker oil will heat up much more in a final drive.
Nice to see this video. good interesting information.
Nice video thanks for sharing🙏
Good stuff thanks!
Amazing video! Thanks
btw, where does one buy the parts for this?
Any BMW motorcycle dealer.
You are so GOOD! Super duper!
I just noticed today a bearing sound bouncing off a concrete wall as I rode past. I have only had the bike a couple of weeks, a 99 K1200RS with 85K miles. I bought it from the original owner who is now 73 years old, so I doubt it's been run hard. I'm going to order the parts and ride one of my other bikes, a 91 R/100/GS is my winter bike, and it's getting cold so there's no big rush. One trick to get a race out is to weld a bead on the race face, when it cools the race will fall right out.
Learned a new term today "crown gear". Up until now I'd only heard the term ring and pinion. Had to look it up. A crown gear is a gear which has teeth that project at right angles to the face of the wheel
Funny, I live on the other side of the world (Greece) And i have the exact same torque wrench ;P
Nice video Like always :)
good job👍
well explained HackaweekTV now Subscribed :-)
nice hack on the tool modification.
very helpful video ~~ im trying to open up my 2007 k1200s final drive~ it may be not different right?
it's gonna be my first time ~ if you got any advise for me?
There is always something new to learn. What to do, what to understand, and what not to do. Fact: The shim changes each time this job is done. BMW over shim them and its been a problem. On most of the 99'-03' had this problem on the final drives. I would never recommend this way of cleaning the drive on the bike. There was many steps over looked in this video and its always best to read and learn more before doing this job so you understand whats needed. I may not agree with the steps used but there has to be something said about the way this job was done...
Sooooo wanna share some suggestions?
ua-cam.com/video/hVK_lpFoFok/v-deo.html
Yeah, beeing a pro mecanic, I do agree with: it’s not bearing replacement then rebuild, not at all: if you want a safe and durable job, the shimming check procedure must be properly done.
I was using some similar tricks last month doing a quick rebuild on a gearbox, but to get the shims right I had to play around with using various thickness gasketing, as the OEM used that to do play adjustment. Not helped by them using the nastiest seals on it as well, so I replaced the junk seal they used with 2 thinner ones stacked on each other, there was about 2mm gap left after that, and the lower one was about 1mm proud. Oil that came out ( what was left after the rest went down through the motor and cooked it rather well as well) was horrid stuff, all nasty and cheap. Had to flush the unit twice with new oil during assembly to get the junk out. But there I actually used a bottle of differential oil that had been lying around unused for around 5 years, nice MB spec oil still in the sealed bottle, extra from a diff service. Was either that or pull out the drum of 220 grade or the 630 grade gear oil, which would have worked there as well. Had a tablespoon of oil left after the final fill. Reason the unit popped seals is because the OEM had not included a breather hole anywhere in the case, so it blew out eventually from the weakest seal. I made a breather at the topmost filling plug to keep it happy.
Mini-Report: As shown, the assembly of the frozen crowngear & heated tapered roller bearing inner race worked like a charm. Similarly, I froze the tapered roller bearing outer race and heated the outer bearing seat in the differential with a heat gun to 140F. This, too, made install a snap.
I built one of these a while ago,most expensive bit of the job was buying the shims to set the backlash and preload, after watching this I'm wondering how long it will last,,,,
Thanks for the Extremely informative video! One thing to note: at 18:20 what hits the concrete floor first, the bearing cage, or the cone?
First of all, thank you Dean for your generosity. I have a doubt about the oil you´d put into the final drive (until it starts to run over), but BMW says for my R1100RT 230ml ... I used to fill my scooters final drive the way you have done (until it start to run over). Do you think that 230ml is approaching the fill limit that you use? If your way implies more quantity, could it be dangerous for the seals (like it happens in the oil engine overfill)? Thank you very much again!
Awesome videos on the final drive rebuild. I have an odd question. I'm looking @ K1200RS bikes but haven't sat on one yet. I saw your sitting position looks pretty comfortable so I wanted to asked what your height is for comparison.
Great video...informative and fun to watch. I am doing the exact same job. Where did you buy your parts? Dealer prices are high and I was wondering if there was a good alternative.
Good job, thank you, but truly in any kind of bevel gear setup you have to use machinists blue one the gears and see where they are meshing. Especially with these as they are known to come from the factory shimmed wrong. Still, you did show how the owner can do the job by himself. There are probably other videos that show how to measure for the correct shim clearance.
Take several rubber bands and put it around the puller, then you won't have to worry about it shifting away from the center.
Great Idea! I just removed my crown wheel bearing this afternoon with a 3 jaw puller, and rubber bands wound have sped up the process bigtime.
Nice video. Any thoughts why the bearing failed at only 25,000 miles?
Aaaaaa fresh baked barring. Just like mouther use to make
When I did mine used gas to heat the housing and removed the bearing, then put the housing in the oven for 30 mins and the bearing in the freezer for 30mins, items just slid together no extractors used.
In general what are these bikes like to work on? I'm pondering getting a second bike.
Great vid but how do I replace the pinion gear bearing? :-)
How many miles on the bike when you did this?Thanks for the vid.
Is this the repair that has to be done for the final drive failure?
Hi. It seems to me that you overheated bearings a little. And the radial bearing began even to turn with difficulties.
put some heat on the on the old bearings with your gas burner works every time
Aluminum expands more than steel by heat.
If the case is heated to 80-90 C most times it will pop out easier.
BTW
Do not use a pressure washer on the bike. Water will go in and damage bearings.
I think its great to work without a press, but always when I see someone blow a bearing in the housing I start thinking wich other bearing will have to suffer these blows.
Informative video. What has me really concerned is you didn't secure the bike safety; only had it on the center stand and you sat under the bike. Dropping 600-700 pound bike on yourself results in serious injury.
Some other points is, your final drive still working okay? If so you were lucky on the preload.
You would head the bracket and install it at factory torque with out the oil seal, then use a dial indicator and pull up on the gear to get a reading, then determine what size of shims to use for correct preload.
Final point is you can instal the oil seal after the bracket is installed back into the drive housing.
Thumping the gear on the ground to drive it into the bracket you ran the risk of damaging the small bearing race or bearing cage.
Hello, can you tell me where you bought the parts? Ty
Dean I know your a busy man but you should start banging out a vid every night for us hard core viewer's ;) come on guy's n gal's lets keep up the donations 28,000 + subscriber's all give dean £10.00 and he will be minted to keep on bringing more great vid's. I'm giving discovery channel a ring to get hackaweek world wide. Keep up with the great vids.
I wish I COULD do this full time. Who knows, with enough views and subscribers I just might one day. One video a week along with my 40 hour week as a Euro automobile tech eats up a lot of my time. :)
3 jaw pullers can be rented for free from local auto parts stores- that's what I did. :-)
Yep, Auto Zone is where I rented mine from for free actually, they just require a deposit. The part about heating the bearings is going to really help, I have my FD in pieces right now. I hope no harm was done to the housing by the previous owner running it dry. Completely dry, as in no drain plug. The bearings were all obliterated. Wish me luck.
No drain plug, eh? -What a fucking idiot. I hope you get her on the road soon. Best of luck to you!
Johnny Smokestack She's on the road. I bought a replacement FD after being advised not to rebuild the old one. A bargain at $200 plus $25 for shipping. It was a surprisingly easy fix just swapping the toasted unit for the replacement.
My 2000 K1200RS has what you called the weird "harmonic" right now. I've been poring over the various discussion groups and this is the first time I've heard it described that accurately. Exactly what it feels like. I guess I know what to do. As far as your part sources, I couldn't find a parts link on that page -- only bikes. I tried my normal sources with no luck for those bearings. Allballs doesn't even list any rear bearings for my bike. Any suggestions?
Yea these parts are hard to locate. Any tips on where to look?
Where did you get the parts?
Hello from Germany the home of the BMWs! If you are interested in a workshop how to repair the final drive unit of an older BMW bike - for instance the R 60/6 or R 90/6, we invite you for a visit: @ Not to forget: Respect for your excellent work.
I have a center lug bolt on my 1996 K1100LT
Shweet dude, any opinion on Buell Bikes, i have one and have a video about it you may like.
Not a big fan of Buell bikes, but they look nice.
I am looking for the Final Drive Ball Bearing kit for my BMW R1150R , anybody can give the link where to buy this.
Hack, Where can I get the bearing kit for this job?? I can't find one anywhere !!
TIA
+Stephen Ponter BMW dealer
I tried doing this. the crown spins fine, even when i put back the cover. but once I put all the bolts in, it stops spinning. Is this normal because theres no oil in it? sorry, i'm not much of a mechanic.
Too much pre-load for some reason. Bearing may not be fully seated, or it may need to be shimmed differently. I think BMW sells different shims for it.
hy nice video ,where do you get the parts, i have a 1999 k1200rs, ths
BMW dealer
Stewart Copeland’s brother…😊
Reason for the bevel on that washer is to clear the radius on the shaft! ;-)
That too! :)
Where is the center bolt on the rear wheel. Should be 5 bolts not just 4