Thanks Mike, I just replaced my PTO and other tips for levelling and setting up my slasher (Brush Hog) watched a number of your videos and learned a lot from your easy to follow tips. Once again many thanks.
Thank you MIke. I had been around farming equipment most of my life but had never come across the last type your friend called you about until recently. I purchased a 2nd hand logging winch this spring which happen to have that type and I was pushing the wrong direction. Your video sure helped. By the way, getting at the PTO with the winch on is difficult to say the least but I succeeded.
Mike this video finally answered my question about how easily should the shaft slide. The JD dealer delivered my land rake bolted so tightly I could barely change the angle. Then I saw a video of yours and how easily it should swing. So I fixed it. This is the first summer for the Woods rotary cutter. It’s all I can do to extend the shaft and attach it to the tractor. Now I see the shaft should slide much, much easier than mine does. So great job Mike. You’ve really helped me.
hey Mike this is Clayton. I am a huge fan of your blogs I have learned a lot from them I just bought me a 2017 John Deere 3032e four wheel drive with loader and brush guard on it and I love it I have learned a lot from your blogs keep up the good work thanks.
Well I have just put a small flail mower on my little John Deer Tractor and I told the JD engineer who came along to just seek out Tractor Mike films as they are the most practical I have seen - I wish we have clear videos like this in Britain !
More great tips as always, Mike. thanks. Here's a potential newbie topic for you: how to get your loader working again when one of the hydraulic lines gets unplugged, and you can't get it to reconnect. It's disconnected twice for me, while going through heavy, tall brush. And last time, I couldn't get it to reconnect. it just would not lock on. grr. Fortunately, i had internet access on my phone while in the field and in doing some googling, I found the problem and solution. I'm sure you're already anticipating it. :-) It was pressure in the hose line. I needed to press on that spring-loaded pin in the center of the connector on the hose-end, to relieve it. fortunately I had a multitool in my pocket, and in a moment I was back to the bushes. I fully expected to find you doing a video the next day, as it seems often you do one right as I need it! :-) oh well, maybe one on this topic could help someone else. keep up the great work, and thanks again so much.
Charlie, that one has been on the list forever, I need to break down and go out and do it one of these days. Did you get the oil bath? The first time you release the pressure from a hydraulic hose you're supposed to get a full body oil bath then every time after that you know to wrap a shop rag around the hydraulic fiitting :).
Thanks, Mike, and great to hear. As for the oil bath, I somehow lucked out. I noticed the mention of it, but since I didn't experience it, I didn't presume to suggest it as something all should beware. But if you'd agree it's common, then it's a good point to add, and I'll just count another blessing that I escaped "clean". :-)
I'd count it as a blessing, but almost every tractor owner gets the oil bath thing at least once in his life. When I managed the dealership I came out in the shop one day and there were three oil-drenched mechanics doubled over laughing. They were prepping a compact tractor and a post driver that was about to be delivered. This particular brand of post driver expends a massive amount of oil in a short burst when the driver part comes down. They had plumbed the return line in the back sump of the tractor where you add hydraulic oil, not knowing there was a baffle right below where the return line went in. When they activated the post driver they blew oil all over the shop and in a wave about three businesses north when the hose blew out. Biggest oil bath I've ever seen...
Charlie, we have this problem with the Haybine sometimes, residual pressure in the lift cylinder and hydraulic hose makes it impossible to reconnect the hydraulic quick coupler male end to the female on the tractor.. there are two ways out. 1) lift the cutterhead with a jack or bucket loader, or 2) relieve the pressure by hand, wrap a rag around the male end of the quick coupler to help catch the oil and protect the check ball from damage. Now taking the rag-wrapped male coupler with both hands, quickly tap the check ball against the drawbar, hard as you can. this will relieve the oil pressure in the line so you can reconnect the coupler. beware that relieving pressure will cause some motion on the implement, ensure no one is in or on the implement as they could be injured when it comes down.
I store my pto implements with the shafts outside, but I lube the hell out of it every year with never sieze. I do the ball bearings on the connectors, and take the shaft apart and put plenty of lube on that and I make sure it slides really easily. Haven't had any problems and I've been doing it that way for 9 years now.
Great topic! Future idea for a vid; maybe make us a video about the history of tractors. How they got started and how they've progressed. Keep up the good work!! Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks Mike, you've been a tremendous help in answering all my questions and all so promptly. I'm sure to watch your very informative videos in the future.
Learned something else from watching this. It has always been a frustrating process getting the two parts of the PTO back together because the shield covered all of the shaft. Tomorrow I will cut off enough so I can see where they line up properly.
Mike I have a small compact tractor year 2006 Massey Fergson 1466 that has the toggle switch for the pto on the steering wheel shaft. The problem that I am having is that the pto shaft will not turn when I flip on the switch. The cover on the steering wheel shaft has just three phillip head screws holding it in place. There are three wires on the electrical switch that consists of a blue, red and yellow wire. Taking a DC vote meter and measuring the voltage from the (Red and yellow) wire to the blue wire gives me a reading of more then13 volts dc and from one side of the switch when flipped in on position to the other side of the switch it reads zero voltage as it should read. But the pto shaft still doesn't rotate.
Did you just get this tractor? Some tractors have a lever that also controls the PTO, in addition to the switch. I've not been around a 1466, but make sure there's not a second control somewhere that can prevent it from engaging.
Thanks for the video. I'm new to tractoring, so appreciate your experience sharing. Because you suggest (require?) that the two parts of the shaft be engaged for more than six inches I thought marking the PTO shaft shield to warn if the shafts are pulled too long. I think a paint or tape line on the inner shaft shield would be a good idea to warn that the shafts are getting too long and in danger of separating.
Appreciating all the valuable and thorough information. I'm a new tractor owner so any tips you have for women (muscle power is the issue!), to ease the burden of attaching the implements, I'd be grateful! I'm not easily discouraged tho so I'll take a deep breath and press on!
Have ever made a video that shows how much grease to apply on PTO shaft quick connect where it connects to the the shaft on the tractor? I've looked and all I can find is info on grease fittings. I'm curious if you can have too much grease inside the quick connect which in turn could affect how good it would hold onto tractor shaft. I have the collar with 3 ball bearings.
I've never seen a problem from having too much grease and that allowing it to come off. Maybe someone else will see this and have an experience to share. I don't think it could happen.
I'm having trouble uncoupling the pto shaft from the tractor. It's the type with a sliding ring. The ring seems to move all the way but the shaft doesn't slide off.What should I try?
Hi Mike, appreciate your videos and info. Short story....My GF Kabota tractor uses a BEFCO 48" Brush hog, the safety shield has been trashed since it was purchased. Makes getting the PTO on or off the tractor VERY tough without tools, people and an hours time. The Eurocardian safety shield was damaged beyond use causing most of this problem. I finally after two hours just cut the whole shield off. Now I am trying to figure out how to purchase a new one since the locking bearing seems to be the snag issue for people. Any tips on purchasing a new guard would be awesome. Thanks! Doc832
I took my PTO shaft off and took it to the local dealership and they matched it with a shield. You may also have businesses in your area who service PTO Shafts, clutches, axles and transaxles and they would have a shield that would fit, if your local dealer doesn't. Most of the time, at least in my experience, if they have the PTO shaft there, a place that deals with them, can find an aftermarket shield. Good luck!
How do you align the gear box with the PTO shaft. I had to replace the gear box. Now the PTO shaft smoke at the gear box connection. I was told by a neighbor who i aporoached at the gas ststion that I need to tighten screws. I have no idea what is actually needed.
Hi Mike, Im needing to replace my PTO on my Howse Bush Hog. I have found a Dealer (Howse) online and they said their 4' to 5' ft length shaft would be good for the 10ft double blade Howse I own. I'm concerned about the U joint not fitting my gear box on the bush hog. Not sure at this point the size it is but I probably need to measure the OD before ordering. It gives the brand of tractors the u joint will fit and my John Deere is listed. Is the gearbox side standard as well? Also, I have a slip clutch on the gearbox end of the shaft. I'm not sure their recommendation has one. Any advice you can give before I order online would be much appreciated.
What's bad on the PTO shaft? I think you've figured out (and I agree) that you may be opening a can of works trying to get the right replacement through an online source. Can you repair the PTO shaft like I did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ApnU87qOQh8/v-deo.html We bent the crap out of it and the local shop fixed it for around $130 in two days and that was a fraction of what I could have bought a new one for which wouldn't have been the exact right shaft.
I'm having trouble uncoupling a pto shaft from the tractor. It's a sliding ring type coupler. The ring seems to move okay but the shaft won't move off the output spline. What should I try ?
Either it wasn't properly attached or there's a problem with the locking mechanism. This video explains what's going on inside there that locks it on: ua-cam.com/video/yx-0WoYxeZ8/v-deo.html. Good luck!
hey mike, i think i just realized something. i have been trying to get my tiller to drop lower, but no adjustments seem to help. i do know if i connect my 3points, then try to connect pto, it is too long to connect. i have been connecting pto first because of this. i believe this could be the cause of tiller not lowering enough, what do you think?
Very possible. You may need to take a few inches off your PTO shaft. It's impossible for me to say without seeing but if the shaft is too long for you to hook up without doing it before attaching the three point, it's too long.
Mike, thank you for educating us. I need some advice, I have a Case 1370 150 HP 1000 RPM and a new rotary tiller 12 ft was given to me with a gear box for 200 HP but uses 540 RPM, do you know how can I modified or use an adaptor to slow down the RPM so I don't break the gear box, is this idea feasible? Thank you very much for any help
I don't know of any kit that could slow down the PTO speed. I've known of people who purchased an adapter to match the 1000 rpm output of the tractor (there are two sizes on 1000 shafts, 1 1/8 and 1 3/4) to the 540 input of the implement and then ran at half of rated PTO speed, but it really scares me. If they don't ever run at full 1000 rpm rated speed it works, but, if they did, that could create a real dangerous situation because everything would be spinning twice as fast as it's designed to. They have to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE anyone else who operates the tractor knows they've done this so they don't over-rev the tiller or any other 540 RPM implement. I can't recommend this for liability purposes, but I have seen it work.
It's to hold the shield and keep it from going around when the PTO is engaged. Some manufacturers have quit using it because if it comes loose from the fixed point on the tractor or cutter it can spin really fast and it's a little scary if that happens and there's probably been one come loose and injure someone and a lawsuit resulted. I hook mine to my PTO cover on the tractor and the shield just sits there while the PTO shaft inside goes around and around. That's how they're supposed to work.
Deb, I think I need to cover that because you're the second person who asked this week. I think you're asking if any brand of implement will fit any brand of tractor. If the tractor has a 540 shaft which has 6 splines, it will fit any implement that has a 540 shaft. They're standard. What's in behind the yoke part that goes back to the tractor is far from standard...there are hundreds of designs. So, if you're buying an implement to fit a tractor, you don't have to worry...if you're trying to get a replacement half of the PTO shaft that's bent or has a problem, better take the back half to the store with you so they can match it up. Hope that makes sense...
Johnny I don't make specific tractor recommendations, I always tell people to find a local dealer that they "click" with and buy what they sell because almost all of the current small tractor offering is really good. I haven't personally been around the LS product that much but I usually hear enough through customers to get a feel of any red flags with a brand that would make me not recommend them. So far, about everything I'm hearing from the LS line is positive.
Thanks Mike, I just replaced my PTO and other tips for levelling and setting up my slasher (Brush Hog) watched a number of your videos and learned a lot from your easy to follow tips. Once again many thanks.
Thank you MIke. I had been around farming equipment most of my life but had never come across the last type your friend called you about until recently. I purchased a 2nd hand logging winch this spring which happen to have that type and I was pushing the wrong direction. Your video sure helped. By the way, getting at the PTO with the winch on is difficult to say the least but I succeeded.
Mike this video finally answered my question about how easily should the shaft slide. The JD dealer delivered my land rake bolted so tightly I could barely change the angle. Then I saw a video of yours and how easily it should swing. So I fixed it. This is the first summer for the Woods rotary cutter. It’s all I can do to extend the shaft and attach it to the tractor. Now I see the shaft should slide much, much easier than mine does. So great job Mike. You’ve really helped me.
This is a great video Mike!! For someone who is operating their first tractor, this information is invaluable.
hey Mike this is Clayton. I am a huge fan of your blogs I have learned a lot from them I just bought me a 2017 John Deere 3032e four wheel drive with loader and brush guard on it and I love it I have learned a lot from your blogs keep up the good work thanks.
Well I have just put a small flail mower on my little John Deer Tractor and I told the JD engineer who came along to just seek out Tractor Mike films as they are the most practical I have seen - I wish we have clear videos like this in Britain !
More great tips as always, Mike. thanks. Here's a potential newbie topic for you: how to get your loader working again when one of the hydraulic lines gets unplugged, and you can't get it to reconnect.
It's disconnected twice for me, while going through heavy, tall brush. And last time, I couldn't get it to reconnect. it just would not lock on. grr.
Fortunately, i had internet access on my phone while in the field and in doing some googling, I found the problem and solution. I'm sure you're already anticipating it. :-)
It was pressure in the hose line. I needed to press on that spring-loaded pin in the center of the connector on the hose-end, to relieve it. fortunately I had a multitool in my pocket, and in a moment I was back to the bushes.
I fully expected to find you doing a video the next day, as it seems often you do one right as I need it! :-) oh well, maybe one on this topic could help someone else.
keep up the great work, and thanks again so much.
Charlie, that one has been on the list forever, I need to break down and go out and do it one of these days. Did you get the oil bath? The first time you release the pressure from a hydraulic hose you're supposed to get a full body oil bath then every time after that you know to wrap a shop rag around the hydraulic fiitting :).
Thanks, Mike, and great to hear. As for the oil bath, I somehow lucked out. I noticed the mention of it, but since I didn't experience it, I didn't presume to suggest it as something all should beware. But if you'd agree it's common, then it's a good point to add, and I'll just count another blessing that I escaped "clean". :-)
I'd count it as a blessing, but almost every tractor owner gets the oil bath thing at least once in his life. When I managed the dealership I came out in the shop one day and there were three oil-drenched mechanics doubled over laughing. They were prepping a compact tractor and a post driver that was about to be delivered. This particular brand of post driver expends a massive amount of oil in a short burst when the driver part comes down. They had plumbed the return line in the back sump of the tractor where you add hydraulic oil, not knowing there was a baffle right below where the return line went in. When they activated the post driver they blew oil all over the shop and in a wave about three businesses north when the hose blew out. Biggest oil bath I've ever seen...
Yikes. More lessons we learn from your experience. :-) Thx.
Charlie, we have this problem with the Haybine sometimes, residual pressure in the lift cylinder and hydraulic hose makes it impossible to reconnect the hydraulic quick coupler male end to the female on the tractor.. there are two ways out. 1) lift the cutterhead with a jack or bucket loader, or 2) relieve the pressure by hand, wrap a rag around the male end of the quick coupler to help catch the oil and protect the check ball from damage. Now taking the rag-wrapped male coupler with both hands, quickly tap the check ball against the drawbar, hard as you can. this will relieve the oil pressure in the line so you can reconnect the coupler. beware that relieving pressure will cause some motion on the implement, ensure no one is in or on the implement as they could be injured when it comes down.
I store my pto implements with the shafts outside, but I lube the hell out of it every year with never sieze. I do the ball bearings on the connectors, and take the shaft apart and put plenty of lube on that and I make sure it slides really easily. Haven't had any problems and I've been doing it that way for 9 years now.
Good tip about cutting the shield.
Great topic! Future idea for a vid; maybe make us a video about the history of tractors. How they got started and how they've progressed. Keep up the good work!! Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks Mike, you've been a tremendous help in answering all my questions and all so promptly. I'm sure to watch your very informative videos in the future.
You're sure welcome, thanks for watching.
Thanks Tractor Mike!!!! Your advice is awesome as always!!!!
Learned something else from watching this. It has always been a frustrating process getting the two parts of the PTO back together because the shield covered all of the shaft. Tomorrow I will cut off enough so I can see where they line up properly.
Mike I have a small compact tractor year 2006 Massey Fergson 1466 that has the toggle switch for the pto on the steering wheel shaft. The problem that I am having is that the pto shaft will not turn when I flip on the switch. The cover on the steering wheel shaft has just three phillip head screws holding it in place. There are three wires on the electrical switch that consists of a blue, red and yellow wire. Taking a DC vote meter and measuring the voltage from the (Red and yellow) wire to the blue wire gives me a reading of more then13 volts dc and from one side of the switch when flipped in on position to the other side of the switch it reads zero voltage as it should read. But the pto shaft still doesn't rotate.
Did you just get this tractor? Some tractors have a lever that also controls the PTO, in addition to the switch. I've not been around a 1466, but make sure there's not a second control somewhere that can prevent it from engaging.
Reminded me of an old Dr.Ruth episode I saw on Johnny Carson years ago :-)
Thanks Mike. I learn so much from you.
Thanks for the tip Mike. My new bush hog is sitting outside till I take my back hoe off. Now I know to pull the PTO shaft and move it inside.
Thanks for the video. I'm new to tractoring, so appreciate your experience sharing. Because you suggest (require?) that the two parts of the shaft be engaged for more than six inches I thought marking the PTO shaft shield to warn if the shafts are pulled too long. I think a paint or tape line on the inner shaft shield would be a good idea to warn that the shafts are getting too long and in danger of separating.
Appreciating all the valuable and thorough information. I'm a new tractor owner so any tips you have for women (muscle power is the issue!), to ease the burden of attaching the implements, I'd be grateful! I'm not easily discouraged tho so I'll take a deep breath and press on!
Thanks Mike: useful tips here.
Great information Mike!
As always great video Mike.thanks
Have ever made a video that shows how much grease to apply on PTO shaft quick connect where it connects to the the shaft on the tractor? I've looked and all I can find is info on grease fittings. I'm curious if you can have too much grease inside the quick connect which in turn could affect how good it would hold onto tractor shaft. I have the collar with 3 ball bearings.
I've never seen a problem from having too much grease and that allowing it to come off. Maybe someone else will see this and have an experience to share. I don't think it could happen.
@@TractorMike thank you Mike!
I'm having trouble uncoupling the pto shaft from the tractor. It's the type with a sliding ring. The ring seems to move all the way but the shaft doesn't slide off.What should I try?
Thanks for the help.
10 out of 10. Thank you Mike.
Should the two bushings connecting the shield to shaft on each end get grease? I assume yes but who knows there might be a qwerky reason not to.
Are you talking about the grease zerks on the shields...yes, keep them lubricated.
Thank you Mike!
You are welcome!
How do you collapse that plastic guard over pto can’t get it to collapse it’s got a collar on both ends it’s yellow and on the rear of my LS
Thank you.
thank you so much that was great help
Hi Mike, appreciate your videos and info. Short story....My GF Kabota tractor uses a BEFCO 48" Brush hog, the safety shield has been trashed since it was purchased. Makes getting the PTO on or off the tractor VERY tough without tools, people and an hours time. The Eurocardian safety shield was damaged beyond use causing most of this problem. I finally after two hours just cut the whole shield off. Now I am trying to figure out how to purchase a new one since the locking bearing seems to be the snag issue for people. Any tips on purchasing a new guard would be awesome. Thanks! Doc832
I took my PTO shaft off and took it to the local dealership and they matched it with a shield. You may also have businesses in your area who service PTO Shafts, clutches, axles and transaxles and they would have a shield that would fit, if your local dealer doesn't. Most of the time, at least in my experience, if they have the PTO shaft there, a place that deals with them, can find an aftermarket shield. Good luck!
What is the minimum clearance between the end of the fully compressed PTO shaft, and the end of the drive shaft on the tractor?
How do u know if the shaft is the right strength for the mulcher
How do you align the gear box with the PTO shaft. I had to replace the gear box. Now the PTO shaft smoke at the gear box connection. I was told by a neighbor who i aporoached at the gas ststion that I need to tighten screws. I have no idea what is actually needed.
Thanks mike
Mike, I like the clips on the sleeve you put on. What brand is that?
Hi Mike, Im needing to replace my PTO on my Howse Bush Hog. I have found a Dealer (Howse) online and they said their 4' to 5' ft length shaft would be good for the 10ft double blade Howse I own. I'm concerned about the U joint not fitting my gear box on the bush hog. Not sure at this point the size it is but I probably need to measure the OD before ordering. It gives the brand of tractors the u joint will fit and my John Deere is listed. Is the gearbox side standard as well? Also, I have a slip clutch on the gearbox end of the shaft. I'm not sure their recommendation has one. Any advice you can give before I order online would be much appreciated.
What's bad on the PTO shaft? I think you've figured out (and I agree) that you may be opening a can of works trying to get the right replacement through an online source. Can you repair the PTO shaft like I did in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ApnU87qOQh8/v-deo.html We bent the crap out of it and the local shop fixed it for around $130 in two days and that was a fraction of what I could have bought a new one for which wouldn't have been the exact right shaft.
I'm having trouble uncoupling a pto shaft from the tractor. It's a sliding ring type coupler. The ring seems to move okay but the shaft won't move off the output spline. What should I try ?
Watch this...stay tuned until the very end, the last tip has saved a lot of people:
ua-cam.com/video/yx-0WoYxeZ8/v-deo.html.
I can,t take my pto shaft off tractor it has the the push the pin in type
Here's everything I know about it: ua-cam.com/video/yx-0WoYxeZ8/v-deo.html.
Hey thanks for video.
I got a new 2120 Kubota garden tractor. The pro slid off the gearbox while it was running. Why would that happen? John davidson
Either it wasn't properly attached or there's a problem with the locking mechanism. This video explains what's going on inside there that locks it on: ua-cam.com/video/yx-0WoYxeZ8/v-deo.html. Good luck!
thanks
hey mike, i think i just realized something. i have been trying to get my tiller to drop lower, but no adjustments seem to help. i do know if i connect my 3points, then try to connect pto, it is too long to connect. i have been connecting pto first because of this. i believe this could be the cause of tiller not lowering enough, what do you think?
Very possible. You may need to take a few inches off your PTO shaft. It's impossible for me to say without seeing but if the shaft is too long for you to hook up without doing it before attaching the three point, it's too long.
+Tractor Mike thanks for taking the time to get back to me.
have you already talked about interchangeability ratios for 4wd tractor tires?
No, its on the list. Most people have no idea that it is important, definitely need to be aware so you don't dig, in 4wd.
right on!
Question. got tiller pti shaft i cut 4 inches still wont fit on my emax 25. its factory oem 4ft tiller
You may have to cut off more. The owner's manual of the tiller should give you advice on that.
Mike, thank you for educating us. I need some advice, I have a Case 1370 150 HP 1000 RPM and a new rotary tiller 12 ft was given to me with a gear box for 200 HP but uses 540 RPM, do you know how can I modified or use an adaptor to slow down the RPM so I don't break the gear box, is this idea feasible? Thank you very much for any help
I don't know of any kit that could slow down the PTO speed. I've known of people who purchased an adapter to match the 1000 rpm output of the tractor (there are two sizes on 1000 shafts, 1 1/8 and 1 3/4) to the 540 input of the implement and then ran at half of rated PTO speed, but it really scares me. If they don't ever run at full 1000 rpm rated speed it works, but, if they did, that could create a real dangerous situation because everything would be spinning twice as fast as it's designed to. They have to MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE anyone else who operates the tractor knows they've done this so they don't over-rev the tiller or any other 540 RPM implement. I can't recommend this for liability purposes, but I have seen it work.
I've heard that on some PTO's, they are reversable from 1000rpm to 540dpm
@@SteveMillerhuntingforfood yes. When I worked on Case tractors, you could reverse the shaft to interchange between 540 and 1000.
What is the chain on the guard for?
It's to hold the shield and keep it from going around when the PTO is engaged. Some manufacturers have quit using it because if it comes loose from the fixed point on the tractor or cutter it can spin really fast and it's a little scary if that happens and there's probably been one come loose and injure someone and a lawsuit resulted. I hook mine to my PTO cover on the tractor and the shield just sits there while the PTO shaft inside goes around and around. That's how they're supposed to work.
My 1960’s sickle mower pto shaft is to long
Are pto shafts universal?
Deb, I think I need to cover that because you're the second person who asked this week. I think you're asking if any brand of implement will fit any brand of tractor. If the tractor has a 540 shaft which has 6 splines, it will fit any implement that has a 540 shaft. They're standard. What's in behind the yoke part that goes back to the tractor is far from standard...there are hundreds of designs. So, if you're buying an implement to fit a tractor, you don't have to worry...if you're trying to get a replacement half of the PTO shaft that's bent or has a problem, better take the back half to the store with you so they can match it up. Hope that makes sense...
What is your take on ls tractors
Johnny I don't make specific tractor recommendations, I always tell people to find a local dealer that they "click" with and buy what they sell because almost all of the current small tractor offering is really good. I haven't personally been around the LS product that much but I usually hear enough through customers to get a feel of any red flags with a brand that would make me not recommend them. So far, about everything I'm hearing from the LS line is positive.
Yep, local dealer support is everything.
Great👌