Slice Logs into Lumber on a Bandsaw with a Simple Jig
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Source for the Resaw King blade that is used here: For Laguna 14bx and 14|12: amzn.to/2EZDlAp
Laguna bandsaws:
18bx (shown in this video): amzn.to/33KnbUq
14bx 2.5HP (source: amzn.to/2C7knqD), and
14bx 1.75 HP (source: amzn.to/2EC5kH4).
Moisture meter: amzn.to/2BZYbMU
Rockler Green Wood End Sealer: amzn.to/35pTolx
(buying from these links will help support this channel, so thank you!)
Logs-to-lumber. Did you know that you can easily slice up logs into nice lumber on your bandsaw? Turn firewood into beautiful slabs of usable lumber. I'll show you the jig and all the steps that you need to turn logs into lumber in your shop including how to properly dry your free wood. This source of free wood is a great way to support your shop, and you can save your money to buy tools rather than buying lumber all the time. If you need wood for small craft projects, this can provide an endless supply of free wood for you. Free wood is the best wood. Logs to lumber on a bandsaw is a great way to get it.
I love this so much. There are many trees that have fallen here
in Orlando from Irma and now we can put them to good use! Thank you.
Thank you! Yes, I was actually thinking about all of the downed trees in the hurricane zones as I was making the video. Great way to salvage something from the tragedy.
You can always stop when you see a tree crew cutting on someone's property and ask what they are cutting. Usually the owner doesn't want the wood, but even when they do...often they don't want the smaller pieces that are good to mill on a band saw or table saw unless they plan to burn...in which case they will either give you a few pieces or you can buy it for real real cheap. Once milled...that wood can be worth a lot of money and be really high quality. You will discover the joys of wood drying.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
I haven't used very many different ones, as I only have a Dewalt. But I would say that, as with any tool, there will be differences in performance and durability. But for an occasional user, it probably won't make that much difference. Precision is not a factor with these tools, for most users.
I just made your sled today! You were right, it was easy. I created mine in a half hour and cut up my very first log. Yes! Oh, thank you!
That is awesome, Gerry! Thanks for sharing the feedback. Glad it worked well for you. Enjoy that free lumber!
Thanks. I am a very very green woodworker when it comes to harvesting trees. Thanks for the wisdom.
My pleasure, Jason. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Paul
Oh man I want that band saw so bad. That's a beautiful machine
It's a monster. :)
ToolMetrix it sure is. I've got a noob 6" rip height with a 14" table. I'm looking forward to the day I get to buy a full grown saw.
Thanks. Very easy to make and not complicated at all for an amateurish like me.
Thanks for the feedback, Zyme. Cheers, Paul
Very good video and well instructed. I've just cut some trees down for my daughter so on the strength of your video I gave it a go. Wow, I'm hooked. Unfortunately it's like making wine, you have to agonizingly wait before using it! But again, good effort mate.
Thanks for the feedback and good luck!
Hi ... great video, I'm a fan of the design and George Vondriska's videos as well. I have only a small bandsaw, however ... specifically, a Harbor Freight 9" Benchtop Band Saw (62" blade length). It only has about 4 inches of height capacity ... so I was finding it difficult cutting down my timber into small enough sizes to be able to mill it down further on my tiny little bandsaw. In order to help facilitate this, I have built a tiny chainsaw mill for my battery powered Black and Decker 10" chainsaw, but the going is certainly quite tough. Especially if all you had to start off with was just a crosscut blade for the chainsaw and you are working with North Texas Mesquite or Osage Orange, or even some Cinnamon. Some people out there might even find some extra-hard woods ... :)
In some situations, I have simply taken a sledghammer and some cold chisels and split some log sections into manageable chunks to work with on my bandsaw. Now ... the purpose of all my wood and woodworkiing tools isn't to make cabinets or boards, but to make turning blanks for my mini lathe ... 4x4 is typically about the biggest it can turn without bogging down seriously, as it is a Harbor Freight 8x12 mini wood lathe, so the bandsaw's max capability is well within the range of what I need. The only other use I really have for the bandsaw is milling pen blanks, bottle stopper blanks, and perhaps some decorative work.
I just wanted to post this here in case there are those out there who are in my situation ... you want to mill some pen blanks or bottle stopper blanks, or perhaps a few small pieces of wood for some project or another, but all you can get are big honking chunks and you have no idea how to break it down into something manageable. Also, make sure you are using appropriate blades for the bandsaw if you want to do real woodworking and milling ... the "all purpose" blades that Harbor Freight sells are for cutting metal and light wood, and they have teeth like a hacksaw blade (10 tpi). This is NOT AT ALL suitable for resawing or even proper woodworking usage ... great for 1/8" aluminum stock or single sheets of plywood, though.
Hit up a site like TimberWolf and get some 2tpi or 3tpi blades that are as wide as your bandsaw can handle (mine SAYS it can handle a half inch blade, but that's a lie ... 3/8" is as wide as it can handle and still have the blade riding on the crown of the wheels with the gullet of the blades properly centered). A wider blade tends to flex or deflect left or right quite a bit less, giving you a straighter cut. It also has more metal ... which means it will build up heat more slowly, and dissipate heat faster, leading to less stress on the metal. A thinner blade is made for turning short radii, for decorative work, and is made to easily turn and follow curves. You don't want to overwork a thin blade, it'll heat up fairly fast, the heat cant escape, and you end up melting the rubber on your bandsaw wheels or the blade snaps.
Keep on keepin on, my friend!
Hi Gregory, thanks for your input, sir. Your points about blade selection are spot on. With the wrong blade, bandsaw work can be extremely frustrating. A good blade with a lower tooth count can help you get the most out of a smaller bandsaw.
Corta expo, breve si breve!
Can't wait to make my own lumber! Thanks for the demonstration. I really like the simple jig! Lots of access to maple etc. here in Minnesota.
Thanks David. Yep, MN is loaded with free logs that can be sliced up!
Great presentation and explanation... thank you!
Thanks for watching
I just picked up a 17" General bandsaw and am excited to grab some of the chunks of wood from out back (also in MN) and start the drying process. Nice job on the video and you have a new sub.
Thanks for your feedback. That should be a sweet bandsaw. And thanks for subscribing!
Perfect. I make cooking utensils out of mesquite and have been buying milled wood from a buddy. But...I have a shop and a field full of mesquite trees. I'll be buying the Laguna 1 3/4 HP saw after Christmas.
Wow, I’m so jealous. I just turned a couple mesquite bowls and that’s some beautiful wood!
@@ToolMetrix Grows like crazy here in South Texas. I have about a cord in my wood pile, plus all the trees. My buddy with the mill has gotten some pretty huge slabs out of it.
Great video Paul, and I wish I watched this sooner. I've got some cherry logs to slab out, but the logs have been cut from the tree over a year ago. I hope they are still wet enough to cut.
Hi Mike, thanks for your feedback. They will definitely be wet enough. You will likely see som cracks on the ends but you should get some usable lumber.
Good stuff. Waiting on my Grizzly 17" to arrive in a few days. Looking forward to cutting into some of the Walnut I've got out back.
We just set up my dads grizzly 17 inch saw. Wow what a machine. Absolutely love it.
I saw your comment about getting the 17 inch Grizzly from two years ago. Did you get it, do you like it? It you had it to do over, would you still choose a Grizzly? I can’t seem to make a decision on what brand to choose. I have been en leaning toward the 17 Grizzly.
Hi Jack, curious to know how well you have liked your Grizzly bandsaw. Also, which model did you get?
I seal my ends with boiling hot candle wax, just dunk the board ends in. Cheapest option using old candles from grandma.
That’s a great idea! Thanks for sharing.
That is exactly what I did today with 6 inch logs.
Works good, great explanation. Thanks Paul.
Thanks sir🙏
Great instructional video. I always wanted to know how and if I could do this with my bandsaw with minimal cost. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. The main reason that I bought my first bandsaw 20 years ago was for this very purpose. It's fun, economical, and the thrill of slicing up a log from the yard never gets old.
Great video. Looks like a longer bandsaw table would work well here.
Absolutely that would work well. Upgraded quality and safety.
Definitely food for thought. I wish I saw this past October. I had a oak cut down and I split it up for firewood. I had some pines cut too, maybe I should try this. logs are 20" in diameter. Thanks
My pleasure, Richard. Thanks for watching.
I'm just getting into this with a small bandsaw I got for Christmas. Great fun! Thanks for the tips!
That’s great! It’s so fun.
well done Paul .great tutorial.
Thank you, Ahron!
Good info! If you cut windows along the vertical side of the jug, you could line up the contact point of the log easier. Also, you need an outfeed table/roller.
Thank you
Excellent Laguna I have one too. Cheers Jeff
I LOVE that beast!!!
Great video, and a topic rarely covered. Thank you.
Thanks Jason!
God, wish I had your Laguna! I use a Wen 6” resaw. Just bought it
Hi Todd, I started with a Black and Decker with about 3 or 4" of resaw, and slowly worked my way up to the Laguna with 3 other bandsaws getting progressively larger. With the right blade, and some patience, you might be able to make some slabs using the saw that you have. What I'd suggest is making that first cut using a chainsaw, getting it as flat as you can. Then, take the half round log and see if you can slice some boards. Or, maybe better yet, make two cuts with the chainsaw, so that you have a flat slab to slice up on your bandsaw. Get a 2 TPI blade for your bandsaw which will offer the least resistance, and keep your feed rate slow so that the blade doesn't meander through the cut. You can probably still get some nice 5+" planks this way.
Wow, that was really good info and the jig would be perfect!
Thanks Carol. Glad it was helpful. Cheers, Paul
good video thank you
Thanks Stan!
This is a great tutorial. I’m awaiting delivery of a Jet 14” bandsaw which I bought mainly to slice up tree logs for lumber. I have many logs that are several years old and if the moisture content is too low I’ll have to cut it all up into smaller piece and make bowls or small projects. Any new logs I acquire I’ll be sure to process ASAP.
Thanks for your feedback, Joe. Usually logs will stay pretty green, but the downside is cracked ends and after a few years the wood can get pretty punky. But, sometimes it's fine. One thing is certain, you'll have fun opening them up to see what's inside! Enjoy your new saw. I had that saw for many years and loved it. Cheers, Paul
@@ToolMetrix I was choosing between the Laguna 14” and the Jet 14”. In the end the Jet @ closer to $1000 made more sense. I have Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch, Sweet Birch, Grey Birch, Red Oak, White Oak, Pin Oak, Bradbury Pear, Cherry, Ash, Beech and some Black Cottonwood. I’m most worried about the Birch logs as I’ve already had a few go soft. The rest are still very hard so those I’m hoping will be usable for something. I’ve started building stave snare drums and will build smaller projects for logs that don’t yield large enough boards. I can work with 3” X 8” boards for most of my snare projects so I’m “knocking on wood” so to speak that I have plenty of usable material even if it twists up a bit. The amount of space I’ll free up by cutting up those logs will be welcome. Several small piles of drying boards will be more convenient Than logs all over my property.
Wow, that’s an incredible lineup of wood. You’ll be making some incredible drums with that inventory. Yep, birch rots quickly. The bark is oily and holds in the moisture, making it go punky fast. Best of luck!
Looks good, Paul
Thanks, Charlie!
OK, I ordered the Green End Wood Sealer and the moisture meter.
I think I already have all the other products placed in the video.
Great! Slice some boards, Clark!
awesome thanks.
Thanks for watching, William. Cheers, Paul
Great video, Thanks!
A small kiln may be useful to sterilize the lumber after getting MC down to around 15% or less as there are many logs/trees that are infested with wood boring beetle larvae.
I have seen people use air dried lumber in a project just to see beetles crawling out of the finished product a few months later 😢. Maybe an idea for another build video???
Hi Luke, that’s a great idea. Thanks 🙏
for end sealing; just apply some titebond and glue newspaper sheet. Works wonders.
Good idea. I use TB to seal legs on outdoor furniture. Works great.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. .
Thanks, Bill! Cheers, Paul
I really like the video, my main question is that if my 12” log is 24-36” long I probably need to build a support table to help handle? I have a 14” Laguna bandsaw
Thanks If it’s close to 36” you’ll want some sort of infeed and outfeed support for something that size. Roller stand, table, etc.
would a dehumidifier work in drying the wood a bit quicker or would it dry to fast ?
Yep that helps. I haven’t had any problems when I’ve done that.
I'm going to guess that they would dry faster here in Arizona. I have some Mesquite limbs that I'll try this on.
Hi Henry, yes, absolutely. Also, I’ve found that short boards like these dry quickly. Pretty much ready to go within a couple months. I love mesquite, btw!
@@ToolMetrix It's H A R R Y.. But I answer to the dinner bell....LOL
Ha! Sorry bout that Harry! I’ve been overdue for a new pair of glasses for a long time now!
@@ToolMetrix I just got a new pair. lol
How did you address the sap build up on the inside of the blade? Thanks for the great video.
It can be a problem with some species but usually not. Maple that I sliced up here is among the worst. If you scrub it off right away with a scotch brite pad soaked in mineral spirits it will usually come off ok.
@@ToolMetrix I’ll try that. Thank you.
Two thoughts....first, you packed more good info into a few square inches than I've heard in a long time. Thanks for that. Secondly, I'd love to see you have an out-feed table for that bandsaw around 6:09 I was a bit uncomfortable watching you wrestle and just sliced log with arms on each side of a spinning blade, and the log looked like it was over the edge, and I'm sure it was heavy, and, and, and.... Anyway. I "wood" love to see you NOT get a "splitting" headache. :-)
thanks for what you do!
all the best....
Thanks for watching, and for sharing your feedback.
Great information, thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Thank you for a very good video. Very informative.
Thanks, Matt!
Very informative. I have a question. Tell me about your light. Did you buy that arm and add it to the Laguna?
That is an accessory that was available from Laguna, and yes I installed it onto the bandsaw. I have those same lights on my Laguna lathe. Now they have LED lights which would be a better option.
I am way too clumsy to use a cutting machine like a bandsaw or a table saw. I can only watch others do it, hence I watch videos. 👍🏻😁
You can do it! Start slowly and go from there. Stay safe!
Heavy woodworker or a heavy hitter woodworker😄 nice jig .Thanks
Haha! Thanks for watching, Tbone :)
Thank-you!
Totally my pleasure, John!
Excellent video. I did find one thing disturbing. No push stick. His hands were way to close with the initial cutting. My partner and I always use push sticks to protect our hands. For a teaching video that should be a MUST. Otherwise very good
Thanks for watching and for sharing your input!
Great videos, thanks for uploading, I subscribed!
Thank you, Maikel!
Great video, thumbs up
Thank you very much, MachTwo57!
So i had an oak taken down a couple months ago. I have the base of the trunk that was left that is showing some checking already. i'm gonna cut it up this today and was wondering: 1. Should i just seal the ends after i cut it where it's already showing some checking (ie, will sealing the ends stop further checking) or 2. should i trim off the "checked" ends and then seal it (thus preventing any checking)?
That's a great question. There's probably a lot of "it depends" here, but what I would do is paint the ends now and then cut. It would probably be best to do a first coat of paint using a 50/50 blend of water and latex paint, which will help the paint get into the cracks. Then a second coat of regular paint. If you use the wax emulsion, that's probably as thin as 50/50 paint and will likely get in there just fine.
انا لدي منشار ١٤ لوقينا دايما يخرج عن مسار القص وغير هذا الجهاز لا ياتي بسلاح المنشار رغم ارتفاع سعره
شكرا لك على مشاهدة هذا الفيديو
I would like to mention, that board that has the pith which is the worst part of the log also has the quartersawn wood. Which is the best part of the log. So don't throw the whole thing out just remove the pith and you have two quartersawn pieces that are the usually most stable of the whole log. HTH
Thanks, PJ.
All the orher videos I watched on this subject, they were making over complicated sleds that had a track that rode inside the miter groove. None of them worked well and produced poor results. This seems to be the simplest and best way of doing this.
Thank you for watching and I’m glad that you noticed that. I feel that about many jigs that people make.
How much does a good band saw like yours cost? Is yours home shop grade or industrial grade?
The 18bx that I have sells for about $2k . You can see it here: amzn.to/33KnbUq
It's high end home shop or small pro. Laguna sells another line of bandsaws that are industrial grade. That 18" saw is closer to $4k.
I write the date/year on the stack, before setting aside
Great idea!
I live in SoCal where it’s dry and temps can reach triple digits in the summer, what kind of precautions should I take when I let wood dry?
I’d keep it indoors if you can. If you can’t, then at least keep it in the shade. These short pieces dry pretty quickly.
Thank you well presented. If you like bark less wood keep away from Dogwood 😂
Bill, you paw thing. Your humor is a bit ruff around the edges... :)
I am thinking about doing some of this myself. I have a 17 inch Grizzly. Any reason you went with a 1 inch blade? I need to get a blade for this operation and don't know what size to get. 1/2, 3/4 or 1 inch. Thanks.
As long as you go with a low tooth count like 3-4 TPI any of those sizes will work fine. I love the 1” RK blade because setup is foolproof and it tracks so straight, but for occasional cuts I use a 1/2” 3TPI and the cut quality is fine. A bit wavy compared to the 1” blade but definitely passable for rough cut.
Nicely done! You have a new subscriber................ :)
Thanks 🙏!
how many hp does bandsaw have?
3 hp. I’ve done this with 1hp and it works fine just slower.
i'm from Bangladesh. i want to buy is it possible and how much cost please infrom me
Hi Karim, if you’re referring to the bandsaw I would suggest inquiring at lagunatools.com.
Thanks for your presentation. Please tell me, how can I stop cracks in pine wood. After I cut the tree should I
dry inside a house or use any chemicals?
Hi Nuru, near the end of this video end I show how to do this.
What are some things to do differently if I have a dried piece of Mesquite I wanted to do this with?
Same approach should work fine. I’ve sliced up dry logs without a problem. Dry mesquite will require a slower feed rate but the technique would be the same.
I like your idea. Do you use this system to make bowl blanks for turning? I have been think of doing something like this. Thanks!
Hi Tick, yes, sometimes I use this method for bowls. Sometimes I use a chainsaw for bowls as well. The bandsaw approach works well.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks. I will build one.
Great video thanks, can I just ask whats the maximum height under the guides your bandsaw can cut? it looks pretty big!!
Hi Bill, thank you. This is the Laguna 18bx, and it has 16" of resaw capacity. Yep, it's a nice big bandsaw. :)
Apologies if someone already asked this. If doing your saw work on greenwood is there any additional concern or steps needed to keep sap from gunking up the blade and wheels? Do you have a blade you normally reserve for this job and just clean up after, put your day-to-day blade back on.
Thanks for sharing this. Liked and subscribed. :)
Hi Michael, it’s a messy process but I typically leave the same blade on the saw. You have to wipe down the table afterwards so it doesn’t rust. Probably a good idea to open the doors on the saw to be sure that debris isn’t building up, etc. but I haven’t caused any problems with the saw from this.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks
I don't understand one thing: first you put effort in slowing down the process of drying, then you say you put the slices up on your attic because at summer they dry faster. Doesn't that make the slices to crack?
Sealing the ends slows down drying at the ends of the planks so the they dry evenly. When I put them in the attic they dry a bit faster but they dry evenly so no cracking. If you don’t seal the ends the planks will crack badly at the end 3” - 4” or so every time.
@@ToolMetrix Thank you, it all makes sense now :)
Question. on sealing the ends, I've used some left over oil-based paints that I had, but people always recommend commercial products or LATEX-based paint. is there an advantage of latex-based over oil-based paints?
Good question. Sorry but I’m not sure.
If you prefer bark-free lumber, why not cut the log into a square cant initially before cutting to your desired thickness? You'll get uniform width and it would be much easier to handle around the blade.
Sure you could do it that way as well.
Great vid. I will have to hide this from my wife she will be sorting the firewood.
I say your lucky if she does! 🤣
Paul, in your opinion, what would be the longest log you could do this sort of thing with? I do realize that you will have to get some support device the longer you go but at what point does it become too dangerous? Thanks.
If you have infeed and outfeed support then I don’t know what your upper limit would be. You would also need to think about a safe way to lift the log because it’s the weight that would become challenging. It you are dealing with larger logs I would suggest taking a look at the cool inexpensive and portable mill that Izzy Swan recently built. There’s a great video on his channel.
@@ToolMetrix yes, I have seen that video.
Does crotch wood need any extra attention? Red Oak limb crotches can be extremely chatoyant and can rival burls in their beauty. I am in Arkansas, would my attic be too hot for drying like this?
No special handling for crotch wood. Yep it can be spectacular. Your attic should be fine but I’d suggest drying the wood in a cooler temperature until it drops down to 20% moisture content. Then put it in the attic. I’d try a small batch first but I think it’ll work fine.
I think I know what to do with part of a melamine shelf I just pulled out.
Perfect way to use it!
5 quarters? you meant 1"1/4?
Yep, in lumber terminology 5/4 means 1-1/4. Next time you roll up to the lumber yard tell em you want 5/4 S4S planks and they will know that you’re legit. 😉
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the info
For whatever reason I couldn't make out what thickness you cut those boards? Could you kindly elaborate? Thanks
Hi John, I set the fence to make 5/4 boards. To cut 5/4, I set the fence to 1-3/8", which gives me material that planes out to about 1-1/4". But the beauty of doing this yourself is that you can slice the boards to whatever thickness you want. I just cut up a batch of oak from a backyard tree, and I sliced that into a mix of 8/4 boards (2") and 12/4 (3"). That way if I want thinner boards when I decide what I will make with this stuff I can just resaw to my desired thickness. Leaving it thicker means it takes longer to dry, but gives me more options with how I can use the material.
I was impressed. Whats a good light weight bandsaw to buy?
Thank you, Caper. If, by lightweight you mean a benchtop model, then I really like this one from Rikon: amzn.to/2GNBLyj
If you plan to resaw logs, I would suggest at last a 14" bandsaw with 12" cutting height and 1HP motor. Expect to pay $700-$900 for something that will last. Grizzly G0555 has 6" height but sells with a 6" riser. Rikon, Delta, Shop Fox all sell slightly more expensive models. Look on Amazon or your local wood working shop
It appears that you have to apply a great amount of force to move the log through the blade, more than should be required. What blade are you using and what type tooth and count?I write the date I milled the boards on the stack with a Sharpie because I know 10 months from now I won't remember when I cut and stacked them.
I just ordered a 2 TPI blade which should make the feed a bit easier. We’ll see. Date is interesting but I don’t really care when I cut I just care about moisture content. I thought those boards would be ready in a year but it only took a couple months.
Wouldn't a chain saw work just as well?
Hi Steve, maybe yes, maybe no. One downside is that the chainsaw takes a larger kerf, so more waste. If you freehand it, you probably won't get the cuts as straight and even cuts as with this jig. BUT, if you want to do any amount of logs-to-lumber with a chainsaw you can buy an attachment that turns it into a pretty decent mill. Or, better yet, check out the chainsaw mill that Izzy Swan recently published a video on. That thing is so cool. If I were going to do a lot of this I would probably build a rig lot that. His design is pretty simple and he built it for only $50.
Can I use this same process of cutting and drying for making cookies? I'm making a stump table and can't find a top that I want. But if I can do this I would be willing to wait the year for the drying time. I've already waited over 3yr looking for that perfect top, what's another year!?
I’d suggest building a cradle for cutting the cookie. I’d put Pentacryl on it to prevent cracking or it will split for sure. Cookies should dry faster than one year.
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the info, I really liked the video. Curious what your thoughts are on milling branches. I have some large Walnut branches that were horizontal that id like to use for small projects but have read the tension in branch wood makes it unreliable for project use. Any wisdom you might have on this would certainly be appreciated.
The tension in branches makes them undesirable for lumber in general. For smaller pieces like this I don’t think it’s a problem. The chunk that I cut up in this video was a limb. I do it all the time and haven’t had any problems. I wouldn’t cut up longer planks from a limb though.
What meter did you use? Please be specific.
Hi Michael, here's the one that I used in this video: amzn.to/2BZYbMU. It's a good, basic pin type meter.
Haha. Come to find out, that is the one that I have. While on the subject, have you ever used the pinless ones? Wagner makes one around 400 bucks. I was going to ask them if it would keep my coffee warm while in the shop for that price. Geesh. LOL
Hey man how much you got invested in that band saw? You have any good recommendations for a starter band saw?
Hi Justin, The Laguna 18bx is about $2k.
You can find it here amzn.to/33KnbUq You can do this with a smaller saw, however. A 1412 will do a nice job with this as well: amzn.to/2CR3scd . Any 14" bandsaw should be able to do this on logs within their capacity, as long as you choose the right blade. More recently I've started using a 1/2" x 2 TPI blade for this and it works great. Really slices through the log with less resistance.
Thank you for getting back to me so soon, I really appreciate it brother. I appreciate the extra info as well, very helpful.
I can't wait to invest in one, I have so much wood I could utilize in near by forrests.
Hello and thank you for your really useful videos.
I am an amateur and I am interested in buying a bandsaw so to slice some logs that I have available.
The mean diameter of the logs are somewhere between 20-30 cm or roughly 9-13 inches and they are cut off eucalyptus.
Could you, please, advise me about the power of the bandsaw that I need, in hp or watts? do I need an expensive professional bandsaw or could a cheaper one fit my needs?
Thank you in advance
Thanks for your nice note. For that size log you will want some power as well as the necessary clearance. The bandsaw that I used in this video is a Laguna 18", and it would handle your logs with ease. You could also use something the size of the 14" bandsaws that I show in videos on my channel. They max out at 13" resaw height, so you'd be right on the edge. You will be happier if you go with the 2.5 HP machine as you will be able to cut much faster. Here is a lower cost European style saw that would work well: amzn.to/2CR3scd. Slower than what you saw in the video, but reasonable fast and able to maintain a nice flat cut. You could also use an American style 14" bandsaw, such as this one: amzn.to/2q0exzl. I had this saw for a number of years and liked it. You could slice up logs but it would be a lot slower than shown in this video.
@@ToolMetrix Thank you so much for your reply! I hope I will be able to find one of these two in Greece or else I will seek for a bandsaw with similar characteristics, thanks again
skovonski as a bandsaw owner I can tell you slicing logs is not as easy as it looks on that video
How has your result differed from what i demonstrated here? I was careful to explain everything that i did to get these results.
Is the jig up?
I see what you did there... :)
Don't those screws mess up your table saw table?
Fasteners are countersunk. No problems with scratching that way.
what would be the best size blade to use to cut the log on the band saw with your method?
The absolute best IMO would be the biggest Resaw King blade that your saw can handle. But in reality you can do a lot of resawing with a 1/2" 3 TPI blade. I leave a 1/2" 3 TPI Timberwolf blade on my saw about 95% of the time, and it works well for most things except for tight curves. In fact, I just sliced up a log with that blade a couple weeks ago and it turned out great.
1/2" 3 TPI will work. Look for a 3/4" or 1" if it will fit your bandsaw. For a smoother cut, go for a 3 TPI skip tooth or variable tooth one
What kind of work holders are those handle things? I'm looking for some for where I work at
Is this what you are referring to? amzn.to/2MyYpOY
Hi, this is a really simmple, but working jig for any bandsaw. But the way you used it was a kind of dangerous (6min10sec). You should expand your bandsaw-table in some way to protect you from grabbing for a falling log
Regards
Outfeed support would be a good idea. If I were cutting longer logs I would definitely want to put something in place.
So what would you make with that short piece of lumber? 😮Hmmm
The list is quite long actuall. a few off the top of my head; Cutting board, stool, serving tray, bowl, spoon or other utensils, lamp, acoustic speaker, bottle opener, beer tote, cremation casket, decorative box, serving tongs, dibble, hand plane, tool handle, bench, top and rails for an end table, decorative inlay, scroll saw projects, pen, grain scoop, probably a million more things.
a bug appears at 1:52 by your hand.
Ha! Happens all the time when I pull a log that’s been on the ground for awhile.
Once you get past the initial price of a band saw that can rip at least 12" when re-sawing, your home free.
Yes, indeed!
where is part 2 it is time! :)
Hi Haas, What should I cover in part two?
@@ToolMetrix Results and build something cool from it! At least I hope that not someone thought what to doo with this small pieces of wood and thrown them in the furnace.
Great idea. Thanks!
Hey paul I had to subscribe again cause UA-cam unsubscribed me for some reason
Hi Chris, thanks buddy!
@@ToolMetrix I made a new Facebook page
@@ToolMetrix I made a UA-cam video as well
Awesome! I just checked it out. Awesome work!!!
We
👍
Like
Thanks, Terrence. Cheers, Paul
Just screw a board to the bottom of the log and insert some wedges if not stable on both sides. You dont need the construction. You're going to play with logs on that small saw, you need an outfeed table! Also, if you do it your way make the jig a foot or more longer than the log on the infeed end. Now you can hold onto it and stay away from the blade.
Thanks
thank you . question please i have a 1 7" 2hp band saw and i am trying to cut logs into boards . i am having some problems with my cuts some bow some start as 1-3/8 " and tapers to 1/2 in i am new to all of this so i made a fence i can use multi highs on it to use after i cut my 2 flats
It's hard to say what might be causing this. First I'd try some simple tests to see if you are having the same problem with other material or if this is specific to logs. It could be that you just need to compensate for drift. I'd search for the Alex Snodgrass video on setting up a bandsaw and he'll walk you through how to get the saw to do what you want. If you can't get his approach working, you can simply make an adjustment to compensate for the drift. If it is not drift that is causing the problem, I would try a different and new blade. A 1/2" or wider 3 TPI blade works well for this. I really like Timberwolf blades.
thank you
What size bandsaw blade are you using? My 1/2” works well, but anything smaller doesn’t track properly. How old is your blade? It’s amazing how well a new blade performs.
it's not as easy as it looks in that video and don't forget you have to let the wood dry for about two years before it's usable
Hi Ram, once you get everything set up correctly it is actually that easy. The jig is what makes it work. I showed all the steps necessary to achieve the results that you saw in this video. I had figured that these pieces would take a year or so to dry, but in reality they were down to 8% in about 3 months. I dried them indoors in a heated room.
Stopped watching at the first commercial
Good to know
Don't say bandsaw
Bandsaw
Please don't say bandsaw
Bandsaw