Thank you! Yes, I was actually thinking about all of the downed trees in the hurricane zones as I was making the video. Great way to salvage something from the tragedy.
You can always stop when you see a tree crew cutting on someone's property and ask what they are cutting. Usually the owner doesn't want the wood, but even when they do...often they don't want the smaller pieces that are good to mill on a band saw or table saw unless they plan to burn...in which case they will either give you a few pieces or you can buy it for real real cheap. Once milled...that wood can be worth a lot of money and be really high quality. You will discover the joys of wood drying.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
I haven't used very many different ones, as I only have a Dewalt. But I would say that, as with any tool, there will be differences in performance and durability. But for an occasional user, it probably won't make that much difference. Precision is not a factor with these tools, for most users.
Excellent tutorial!! I bought a crane for my truck bed and I've been retrieving free logs that people post online. I can't lift the heavy logs so the crane works great.. I plan to use another lift in the shop to get them onto the band saw. I have been wanting to resaw wood for sometime now and your video has helped me tremendously. I actually lucked out and got a bunch of black walnut logs last week. I cant believe he was offering them for free. I also took the branches about 3" across for spoon carving. Thanks again!
I'm pretty sure that this is one of the best wood preparation videos I've ever seen. It's quick and to the point, but leaves out nothing that I could see. Covers how to cut the boards properly in a quick and easy to understand way. Yeah, it's definitely up there in my top 10's somewhere.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video. Now in '22, I've been contemplating buying a decent bandsaw (perhaps a Laguna 14/12) and your video has sealed the deal. I absolutely love the idea of sawing logs and all that goes with it - the excitement of revealing the figure, the anticipation waiting for the lumber to dry, the satisfaction of doing it yourself etc. Big thank you from Sydney - Dave (new subscriber!)
Awesome Dave! Great to hear this. It was the idea of slicing up logs that nudged me to get my first bandsaw 25 years ago. Glad to share the obsession with others. Best of luck with your purchase decision and enjoy your new saw when it lands. Cheers, Paul
One of the best videos I've seen on making my own lumber on the bandsaw. You cover every step in the process from making the jig, how and where to cut the log, how deal with the pith, to stacking, measuring moisture and painting the ends. You even answered a question I've long had about whether to wait after felling the tree before cutting into lumber. Excellent, excellent job sir.
I bought a Laguna Revo 18-36 last fall and yesterday I bought a Laguna 14bx 2 1/2 HP 220 volt band saw. I am now in the lumber business:) Now I just need to figure out how to get dust collector to hook up for each tool in my shop.
Hi Wayne, you're definitely setting up a sweet shop! Keep the runs as short and straight as you can, and use as little flex hose as possible. Also, get the right dust collector the first time; don't go too small, then upgrade later. To oversimplify, go 1.5 HP if you want to roll the DC around to your tools, 2 HP for a small duct system, and 3+ HP for a large hobby shop.
Perfect. I make cooking utensils out of mesquite and have been buying milled wood from a buddy. But...I have a shop and a field full of mesquite trees. I'll be buying the Laguna 1 3/4 HP saw after Christmas.
@@ToolMetrix Grows like crazy here in South Texas. I have about a cord in my wood pile, plus all the trees. My buddy with the mill has gotten some pretty huge slabs out of it.
An old timer taught me if you cut down or cut up a piece like you have there and aren't going to be using it for a while. He always saved extra paint and people he knew would give him leftover paint that they no longer needed because they changed color etc. He would clean the ends of the wood so there was no excess dirt or sawdust. Then he would put as many coats of paint on the ends that it takes to seal it. Usually 2 coats. This controls the drying and it dries all over at a slower rate so it doesn't split as much. He was in his 80's around 2001 and was running a woodmizer portable sawmill. He would cut when weather would allow him to get back in the woods then cut when it was too muddy to drive in the woods.
Great video Paul, and I wish I watched this sooner. I've got some cherry logs to slab out, but the logs have been cut from the tree over a year ago. I hope they are still wet enough to cut.
Hi Mike, thanks for your feedback. They will definitely be wet enough. You will likely see som cracks on the ends but you should get some usable lumber.
I'm thinking with extended infeed, outfeed and fences this could do some amazing full length lumber. Great video, especially the end grain post cutting tips.
Hi Geoff, I think you're right. I've seen a video where someone rigged up some heavy infeed and outfeed tables. I don't think i would want to deal with any extreme weight, and would rather use a chainsaw mill for bigger logs. That said, I've been thinking about trying a hybrid approach where I would make the first on a longer log (maybe 6') using a chainsaw, then hoist half of the log up onto infeed and outfeed support where I would then slice some boards. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Paul
Hi ... great video, I'm a fan of the design and George Vondriska's videos as well. I have only a small bandsaw, however ... specifically, a Harbor Freight 9" Benchtop Band Saw (62" blade length). It only has about 4 inches of height capacity ... so I was finding it difficult cutting down my timber into small enough sizes to be able to mill it down further on my tiny little bandsaw. In order to help facilitate this, I have built a tiny chainsaw mill for my battery powered Black and Decker 10" chainsaw, but the going is certainly quite tough. Especially if all you had to start off with was just a crosscut blade for the chainsaw and you are working with North Texas Mesquite or Osage Orange, or even some Cinnamon. Some people out there might even find some extra-hard woods ... :) In some situations, I have simply taken a sledghammer and some cold chisels and split some log sections into manageable chunks to work with on my bandsaw. Now ... the purpose of all my wood and woodworkiing tools isn't to make cabinets or boards, but to make turning blanks for my mini lathe ... 4x4 is typically about the biggest it can turn without bogging down seriously, as it is a Harbor Freight 8x12 mini wood lathe, so the bandsaw's max capability is well within the range of what I need. The only other use I really have for the bandsaw is milling pen blanks, bottle stopper blanks, and perhaps some decorative work. I just wanted to post this here in case there are those out there who are in my situation ... you want to mill some pen blanks or bottle stopper blanks, or perhaps a few small pieces of wood for some project or another, but all you can get are big honking chunks and you have no idea how to break it down into something manageable. Also, make sure you are using appropriate blades for the bandsaw if you want to do real woodworking and milling ... the "all purpose" blades that Harbor Freight sells are for cutting metal and light wood, and they have teeth like a hacksaw blade (10 tpi). This is NOT AT ALL suitable for resawing or even proper woodworking usage ... great for 1/8" aluminum stock or single sheets of plywood, though. Hit up a site like TimberWolf and get some 2tpi or 3tpi blades that are as wide as your bandsaw can handle (mine SAYS it can handle a half inch blade, but that's a lie ... 3/8" is as wide as it can handle and still have the blade riding on the crown of the wheels with the gullet of the blades properly centered). A wider blade tends to flex or deflect left or right quite a bit less, giving you a straighter cut. It also has more metal ... which means it will build up heat more slowly, and dissipate heat faster, leading to less stress on the metal. A thinner blade is made for turning short radii, for decorative work, and is made to easily turn and follow curves. You don't want to overwork a thin blade, it'll heat up fairly fast, the heat cant escape, and you end up melting the rubber on your bandsaw wheels or the blade snaps. Keep on keepin on, my friend!
Hi Gregory, thanks for your input, sir. Your points about blade selection are spot on. With the wrong blade, bandsaw work can be extremely frustrating. A good blade with a lower tooth count can help you get the most out of a smaller bandsaw.
Good info! If you cut windows along the vertical side of the jug, you could line up the contact point of the log easier. Also, you need an outfeed table/roller.
I just picked up a 17" General bandsaw and am excited to grab some of the chunks of wood from out back (also in MN) and start the drying process. Nice job on the video and you have a new sub.
This is a great tutorial. I’m awaiting delivery of a Jet 14” bandsaw which I bought mainly to slice up tree logs for lumber. I have many logs that are several years old and if the moisture content is too low I’ll have to cut it all up into smaller piece and make bowls or small projects. Any new logs I acquire I’ll be sure to process ASAP.
Thanks for your feedback, Joe. Usually logs will stay pretty green, but the downside is cracked ends and after a few years the wood can get pretty punky. But, sometimes it's fine. One thing is certain, you'll have fun opening them up to see what's inside! Enjoy your new saw. I had that saw for many years and loved it. Cheers, Paul
@@ToolMetrix I was choosing between the Laguna 14” and the Jet 14”. In the end the Jet @ closer to $1000 made more sense. I have Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch, Sweet Birch, Grey Birch, Red Oak, White Oak, Pin Oak, Bradbury Pear, Cherry, Ash, Beech and some Black Cottonwood. I’m most worried about the Birch logs as I’ve already had a few go soft. The rest are still very hard so those I’m hoping will be usable for something. I’ve started building stave snare drums and will build smaller projects for logs that don’t yield large enough boards. I can work with 3” X 8” boards for most of my snare projects so I’m “knocking on wood” so to speak that I have plenty of usable material even if it twists up a bit. The amount of space I’ll free up by cutting up those logs will be welcome. Several small piles of drying boards will be more convenient Than logs all over my property.
Wow, that’s an incredible lineup of wood. You’ll be making some incredible drums with that inventory. Yep, birch rots quickly. The bark is oily and holds in the moisture, making it go punky fast. Best of luck!
Thanks for the feedback. The main reason that I bought my first bandsaw 20 years ago was for this very purpose. It's fun, economical, and the thrill of slicing up a log from the yard never gets old.
I seal wood end grain with an old iron and scrap candle wax or cheap wax from a reuse store. Works great the heated wax works it way into the end grain.
Hi Paula, interesting approach. I hadn't come across that one. Effectively it accomplishes the same thing as the product that I'm using here. I like the idea.
That's awesome, Dennis! I just sliced up some maple myself this week, and I found a ton of curl inside parts of it. Very exciting. Have fun slicing some boards!
@@ToolMetrix -I am new to Minnesota. I have worked with "big leaf maple' (Acer Macro phylum) which sometimes had spalting in the wood. I think what I have this time is Silver maple (Acer ????) and I am not sure if spalting occurs across all maple species. I was told they cut this particular tree due to a fungus infection. There are some stubs where limbs had been cut off and it looks like there is a few years of growth after. The old stumps may have allowed the spores to migrate into the heart wood. I hope there is some spalting in the crotch. Sounds like a bad medical condition...
Hi Todd, I started with a Black and Decker with about 3 or 4" of resaw, and slowly worked my way up to the Laguna with 3 other bandsaws getting progressively larger. With the right blade, and some patience, you might be able to make some slabs using the saw that you have. What I'd suggest is making that first cut using a chainsaw, getting it as flat as you can. Then, take the half round log and see if you can slice some boards. Or, maybe better yet, make two cuts with the chainsaw, so that you have a flat slab to slice up on your bandsaw. Get a 2 TPI blade for your bandsaw which will offer the least resistance, and keep your feed rate slow so that the blade doesn't meander through the cut. You can probably still get some nice 5+" planks this way.
I saw your comment about getting the 17 inch Grizzly from two years ago. Did you get it, do you like it? It you had it to do over, would you still choose a Grizzly? I can’t seem to make a decision on what brand to choose. I have been en leaning toward the 17 Grizzly.
If you have a power hand plane, take about 4 minutes to create a flat bottom on the log to increase the stability. You can also make a flat at 90 degrees to make a better registration on the jig. It's pretty wobbly as shown at 5:30 in. The biggest issue with a bandsaw is the lack of support for longer logs. They can get pretty heavy and they want to drop off the far end with no supports.
Great video, Thanks! A small kiln may be useful to sterilize the lumber after getting MC down to around 15% or less as there are many logs/trees that are infested with wood boring beetle larvae. I have seen people use air dried lumber in a project just to see beetles crawling out of the finished product a few months later 😢. Maybe an idea for another build video???
Very good video and well instructed. I've just cut some trees down for my daughter so on the strength of your video I gave it a go. Wow, I'm hooked. Unfortunately it's like making wine, you have to agonizingly wait before using it! But again, good effort mate.
Definitely food for thought. I wish I saw this past October. I had a oak cut down and I split it up for firewood. I had some pines cut too, maybe I should try this. logs are 20" in diameter. Thanks
That is an accessory that was available from Laguna, and yes I installed it onto the bandsaw. I have those same lights on my Laguna lathe. Now they have LED lights which would be a better option.
Hi Henry, yes, absolutely. Also, I’ve found that short boards like these dry quickly. Pretty much ready to go within a couple months. I love mesquite, btw!
I really like the video, my main question is that if my 12” log is 24-36” long I probably need to build a support table to help handle? I have a 14” Laguna bandsaw
It can be a problem with some species but usually not. Maple that I sliced up here is among the worst. If you scrub it off right away with a scotch brite pad soaked in mineral spirits it will usually come off ok.
I am cutting cross cut logs into "slabs" for cheese boards. What can I use to prevent cracking that is food safe? love the video and the tips for the band saw. I really enjoyed this! Thanks
Thanks Elizabeth. I’m not sure about what would work best. I’d check with the manufacturer of Pentacryl about food safety. Other than that you could seal with wax to slow the drying process but Pentacryl would work better if it’s food safe.
good video in the middle of the Covid 19 deal and everything closed i gave myself a hairstyle like yours i’m curious as to what your ear protection you are using and do they stay put ? i’m a retired Woodworker that currently is between homes and shops at the moment due to a traumatic Brain Injury that forced me to retire early
Hi Craig, the hearing protection is Sensgard 31 (amzn.to/2vGoTuJ). I like them pretty well. So far they are the best combination of comfort and protection that I've found. That said, they aren't perfect, and they do occasionally slip and I have to adjust. Best of luck in your healing process.
+Belle City Woodworking thanks for the feedback! Have you used your new bandsaw yet? If so, what do you think? I'm going to do a "deep dive" video on the 18bx after I get to know it a bit better. So far I'm really impressed by its power and resaw cut quality. Noticeable improvement over 14" saws which I attribute to the wider blade and maybe somewhat to the larger/heavier wheels.
I just purchased it yesterday, and am waiting for the shipping notification. I look forward to seeing your deep dive video! I am going from an 80's Delta 14" to this saw. I am so looking forward to the upgrade. I am in the middle of a project and the lack of resew capacity on the Delta is what prompted me to shop for a new saw. Thank you for the great video content you put on here.
Wow, that will be a nice upgrade! Yes, the monster resaw capacity is going to be great. I haven't tried to max it out with a 16" cut yet, but I'm looking forward to doing so. Thanks for the kind words about the channel.
Is there a reason you wait until the slabs are cut to apply the sealer? It seems to me it would be quicker and easier to apply it to one large surface (the log end) rather than a bunch of small surfaces.
Hi, Nice demonstration. What is the longest log that this technique will work on without too much trouble? Do you make the wooden jig to be as long as the log? Thanks
Hi Brian, thanks. You'll want the jig to be nearly as long as the log, but you could probably fudge by a few inches on each end. Capacity is going to depend more on the weight than the length. I haven't pushed it hard enough to see how long I could go with a heavy log. If you want to do longer pieces you would probably want to add infeed and outfeed support. You can find videos on YT where this is done, but at that point you are probably better off getting a chainsaw mill.
I know I'm late to the party, but how about using the miter slot and the opposite edge of the table to make a cross cut sled so you can get nice straight lines, really easy, with minimal effort?
So i had an oak taken down a couple months ago. I have the base of the trunk that was left that is showing some checking already. i'm gonna cut it up this today and was wondering: 1. Should i just seal the ends after i cut it where it's already showing some checking (ie, will sealing the ends stop further checking) or 2. should i trim off the "checked" ends and then seal it (thus preventing any checking)?
That's a great question. There's probably a lot of "it depends" here, but what I would do is paint the ends now and then cut. It would probably be best to do a first coat of paint using a 50/50 blend of water and latex paint, which will help the paint get into the cracks. Then a second coat of regular paint. If you use the wax emulsion, that's probably as thin as 50/50 paint and will likely get in there just fine.
Hi Rodo, yes that’s true. With small pieces like this I normally deal with that when I use it, if I need a straight edge. But you’re absolutely right in that it could also be done up front
Someone might have already asked this but with 352 comments…you have your freshly cut wood stacked up on your bench for video purposes but where would you normally store the wood for the year or so that it needs to dry?
I put this stack in the corner of my shop. Because the pieces were so short they were actually dry in just a couple months. Longer planks go up in my attic for drying. The heat accelerates the drying process.
Great info. Thanks. Do you ever have problems with the blade “gumming” up from wet wood? How do you deal with that? Is there any blade treatment you use. Mine gets so bad I have to scrape it off with a wire brush or putty knife. Also, it “gunks up” the tires on the wheels. Again, what do you do for this?
Yeah, I did have that one else from some soft maple which is notorious for that. I was able to scrape it off the tires. I can’t remember what I did on the blade. Maybe some pitch remover with the blade removed.
Hi Frank, you can do this on a much cheaper saw! you can just cut bigger pieces, and do it faster, on a larger saw. A 14" saw would be great for this, and you can find those on CL for a few hundred bucks.
Thanks. If you’re asking if I cut up logs for lumber very often, I’d say 1-2 times per year. It’s fun and I love the free lumber but I only need so much lumber of that length.
Great video. I'm looking into getting a band saw for this exact purpose, since I have 40+ acres of mixed deciduous trees and want to make use of it. There seems to be wide range of horsepower in band saws. Would you give some guidance on the recommended HP for this type of cutting: 12+ inch log diameter. Is 1 HP enough? And second, if I have dried logs, although harder to cut, can I still re-saw and use the wood. Is the issue just cracking and more difficult cutting? Or something more? Thanks.
You can do this on a 1 HP machine but it will be slow going. a 1.5 to 1.75 HP saw will be a huge improvement. Mine is a 3 HP saw, and that makes it very easy work. Green wood will cut easier, and logs will tend to be cracked at the ends if they are dried without sealing ends first, but you can do it and in fact I've done it that way. Still allow a bit of time for the boards to dry some before using them, as there is still often some unevenness in the moisture content even if the log is mostly dry.
Should have left it on the Jig. But; if not concerned about even thickness this is a great idea as after it drys, you can plane it and run it through a thickness planer.
There’s really no advantage to leaving it on the jig. The thickness is established by the fence position, and by removing from the jig and just using the fence you can get consistent thickness.
I'm looking at the Laguna BX 1.75 HP (110V) vs. 2.5 HP (220V) for this type of work. Is the 2.5 HP going to be much better for resawing logs, or similar? Thanks.
Hi David, the difference on a large log is noteworthy. Check out my video on this very topic Laguna 14bx Bandsaw: Choosing Between 1.75 HP and 2.5 HP ua-cam.com/video/Ju6LUc3J1jc/v-deo.html
I am thinking about doing some of this myself. I have a 17 inch Grizzly. Any reason you went with a 1 inch blade? I need to get a blade for this operation and don't know what size to get. 1/2, 3/4 or 1 inch. Thanks.
As long as you go with a low tooth count like 3-4 TPI any of those sizes will work fine. I love the 1” RK blade because setup is foolproof and it tracks so straight, but for occasional cuts I use a 1/2” 3TPI and the cut quality is fine. A bit wavy compared to the 1” blade but definitely passable for rough cut.
I would like to mention, that board that has the pith which is the worst part of the log also has the quartersawn wood. Which is the best part of the log. So don't throw the whole thing out just remove the pith and you have two quartersawn pieces that are the usually most stable of the whole log. HTH
The 18bx that I have sells for about $2k . You can see it here: amzn.to/33KnbUq It's high end home shop or small pro. Laguna sells another line of bandsaws that are industrial grade. That 18" saw is closer to $4k.
Great video. Your explanation is easily understandable. I have two questions. First, is that moveable fence on your saw original (laguna) or aftermarket? Second: what would happen if I tried to do this with a log piece that has been cut (and remained a whole log) for a year or more? Thanks!
Yep, that is the original fence on the Laguna 18bx. If you did this on a log that was cut a year or more it would work the same. You might find that you have checking on the ends of the logs, but typically the moisture will still be high within the logs. At some point you will start to find spalting, then rot within the log. I recently sliced up some cherry that was sitting for a couple years. The log section was about 6 feet long. About 9" on each end was unusable due to rot penetration. The middle was all good, except for a couple punky spots where it was sitting on the ground.
![⚡[DIY] Making a jig for sawing logs /If you do some woodworking, you should also cut logs /HOMEMADE✅](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H2QM5yj8oGM/mqdefault.jpg)
I love this so much. There are many trees that have fallen here
in Orlando from Irma and now we can put them to good use! Thank you.
Thank you! Yes, I was actually thinking about all of the downed trees in the hurricane zones as I was making the video. Great way to salvage something from the tragedy.
You can always stop when you see a tree crew cutting on someone's property and ask what they are cutting. Usually the owner doesn't want the wood, but even when they do...often they don't want the smaller pieces that are good to mill on a band saw or table saw unless they plan to burn...in which case they will either give you a few pieces or you can buy it for real real cheap. Once milled...that wood can be worth a lot of money and be really high quality. You will discover the joys of wood drying.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
I haven't used very many different ones, as I only have a Dewalt. But I would say that, as with any tool, there will be differences in performance and durability. But for an occasional user, it probably won't make that much difference. Precision is not a factor with these tools, for most users.
Excellent tutorial!! I bought a crane for my truck bed and I've been retrieving free logs that people post online. I can't lift the heavy logs so the crane works great.. I plan to use another lift in the shop to get them onto the band saw. I have been wanting to resaw wood for sometime now and your video has helped me tremendously. I actually lucked out and got a bunch of black walnut logs last week. I cant believe he was offering them for free. I also took the branches about 3" across for spoon carving. Thanks again!
Geez, you’ve got all kinds of cool stuff going on! Free walnut, a crane on your truck, even spoon carving!!! 🤩 Karma’s on your side...
I'm pretty sure that this is one of the best wood preparation videos I've ever seen. It's quick and to the point, but leaves out nothing that I could see. Covers how to cut the boards properly in a quick and easy to understand way. Yeah, it's definitely up there in my top 10's somewhere.
Thanks, Kan. You've definitely made my day. Cheers, Paul
Thank you so much for this wonderful video. Now in '22, I've been contemplating buying a decent bandsaw (perhaps a Laguna 14/12) and your video has sealed the deal. I absolutely love the idea of sawing logs and all that goes with it - the excitement of revealing the figure, the anticipation waiting for the lumber to dry, the satisfaction of doing it yourself etc. Big thank you from Sydney - Dave (new subscriber!)
Awesome Dave! Great to hear this. It was the idea of slicing up logs that nudged me to get my first bandsaw 25 years ago. Glad to share the obsession with others. Best of luck with your purchase decision and enjoy your new saw when it lands. Cheers, Paul
Oh man I want that band saw so bad. That's a beautiful machine
It's a monster. :)
ToolMetrix it sure is. I've got a noob 6" rip height with a 14" table. I'm looking forward to the day I get to buy a full grown saw.
One of the best videos I've seen on making my own lumber on the bandsaw. You cover every step in the process from making the jig, how and where to cut the log, how deal with the pith, to stacking, measuring moisture and painting the ends. You even answered a question I've long had about whether to wait after felling the tree before cutting into lumber. Excellent, excellent job sir.
Thanks, Walter!
I just made your sled today! You were right, it was easy. I created mine in a half hour and cut up my very first log. Yes! Oh, thank you!
That is awesome, Gerry! Thanks for sharing the feedback. Glad it worked well for you. Enjoy that free lumber!
Nice job Paul! I live 60 miles so of you.
Thanks Neighbor! 😀
I bought a Laguna Revo 18-36 last fall and yesterday I bought a Laguna 14bx 2 1/2 HP 220 volt band saw. I am now in the lumber business:) Now I just need to figure out how to get dust collector to hook up for each tool in my shop.
Hi Wayne, you're definitely setting up a sweet shop! Keep the runs as short and straight as you can, and use as little flex hose as possible. Also, get the right dust collector the first time; don't go too small, then upgrade later. To oversimplify, go 1.5 HP if you want to roll the DC around to your tools, 2 HP for a small duct system, and 3+ HP for a large hobby shop.
Perfect. I make cooking utensils out of mesquite and have been buying milled wood from a buddy. But...I have a shop and a field full of mesquite trees. I'll be buying the Laguna 1 3/4 HP saw after Christmas.
Wow, I’m so jealous. I just turned a couple mesquite bowls and that’s some beautiful wood!
@@ToolMetrix Grows like crazy here in South Texas. I have about a cord in my wood pile, plus all the trees. My buddy with the mill has gotten some pretty huge slabs out of it.
Awesome demonstration mate! I'll return to this video for sure once I get my new band saw.
Awesome Scott. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Paul
An old timer taught me if you cut down or cut up a piece like you have there and aren't going to be using it for a while. He always saved extra paint and people he knew would give him leftover paint that they no longer needed because they changed color etc. He would clean the ends of the wood so there was no excess dirt or sawdust. Then he would put as many coats of paint on the ends that it takes to seal it. Usually 2 coats. This controls the drying and it dries all over at a slower rate so it doesn't split as much. He was in his 80's around 2001 and was running a woodmizer portable sawmill. He would cut when weather would allow him to get back in the woods then cut when it was too muddy to drive in the woods.
Thanks for sharing this information, Jens!
Thanks. Very easy to make and not complicated at all for an amateurish like me.
Thanks for the feedback, Zyme. Cheers, Paul
This is exactly what I was looking for! Got some small logs from my tree but no clue how to process them on my own. Thank you!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching and best of luck with your slicing. Cheers, Paul
Thanks. I am a very very green woodworker when it comes to harvesting trees. Thanks for the wisdom.
My pleasure, Jason. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Paul
Great video. Looks like a longer bandsaw table would work well here.
Absolutely that would work well. Upgraded quality and safety.
Great video Paul, and I wish I watched this sooner. I've got some cherry logs to slab out, but the logs have been cut from the tree over a year ago. I hope they are still wet enough to cut.
Hi Mike, thanks for your feedback. They will definitely be wet enough. You will likely see som cracks on the ends but you should get some usable lumber.
Can't wait to make my own lumber! Thanks for the demonstration. I really like the simple jig! Lots of access to maple etc. here in Minnesota.
Thanks David. Yep, MN is loaded with free logs that can be sliced up!
From one MN woodworker to another: thank you!
My pleasure; thanks for watching. Well we’re sure having some “woodworking weather” around here, eh?! ! 🤣
I seal my ends with boiling hot candle wax, just dunk the board ends in. Cheapest option using old candles from grandma.
That’s a great idea! Thanks for sharing.
That is exactly what I did today with 6 inch logs.
Thanks a lot, so much simpler / better than the other overly complicated designs I've seen. subscribed.
Thanks for the nice words, and for subscribing.
I'm thinking with extended infeed, outfeed and fences this could do some amazing full length lumber. Great video, especially the end grain post cutting tips.
Hi Geoff, I think you're right. I've seen a video where someone rigged up some heavy infeed and outfeed tables. I don't think i would want to deal with any extreme weight, and would rather use a chainsaw mill for bigger logs. That said, I've been thinking about trying a hybrid approach where I would make the first on a longer log (maybe 6') using a chainsaw, then hoist half of the log up onto infeed and outfeed support where I would then slice some boards. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Paul
Very easy to follow video. Nicely done. Thank You,
🙏
Hi ... great video, I'm a fan of the design and George Vondriska's videos as well. I have only a small bandsaw, however ... specifically, a Harbor Freight 9" Benchtop Band Saw (62" blade length). It only has about 4 inches of height capacity ... so I was finding it difficult cutting down my timber into small enough sizes to be able to mill it down further on my tiny little bandsaw. In order to help facilitate this, I have built a tiny chainsaw mill for my battery powered Black and Decker 10" chainsaw, but the going is certainly quite tough. Especially if all you had to start off with was just a crosscut blade for the chainsaw and you are working with North Texas Mesquite or Osage Orange, or even some Cinnamon. Some people out there might even find some extra-hard woods ... :)
In some situations, I have simply taken a sledghammer and some cold chisels and split some log sections into manageable chunks to work with on my bandsaw. Now ... the purpose of all my wood and woodworkiing tools isn't to make cabinets or boards, but to make turning blanks for my mini lathe ... 4x4 is typically about the biggest it can turn without bogging down seriously, as it is a Harbor Freight 8x12 mini wood lathe, so the bandsaw's max capability is well within the range of what I need. The only other use I really have for the bandsaw is milling pen blanks, bottle stopper blanks, and perhaps some decorative work.
I just wanted to post this here in case there are those out there who are in my situation ... you want to mill some pen blanks or bottle stopper blanks, or perhaps a few small pieces of wood for some project or another, but all you can get are big honking chunks and you have no idea how to break it down into something manageable. Also, make sure you are using appropriate blades for the bandsaw if you want to do real woodworking and milling ... the "all purpose" blades that Harbor Freight sells are for cutting metal and light wood, and they have teeth like a hacksaw blade (10 tpi). This is NOT AT ALL suitable for resawing or even proper woodworking usage ... great for 1/8" aluminum stock or single sheets of plywood, though.
Hit up a site like TimberWolf and get some 2tpi or 3tpi blades that are as wide as your bandsaw can handle (mine SAYS it can handle a half inch blade, but that's a lie ... 3/8" is as wide as it can handle and still have the blade riding on the crown of the wheels with the gullet of the blades properly centered). A wider blade tends to flex or deflect left or right quite a bit less, giving you a straighter cut. It also has more metal ... which means it will build up heat more slowly, and dissipate heat faster, leading to less stress on the metal. A thinner blade is made for turning short radii, for decorative work, and is made to easily turn and follow curves. You don't want to overwork a thin blade, it'll heat up fairly fast, the heat cant escape, and you end up melting the rubber on your bandsaw wheels or the blade snaps.
Keep on keepin on, my friend!
Hi Gregory, thanks for your input, sir. Your points about blade selection are spot on. With the wrong blade, bandsaw work can be extremely frustrating. A good blade with a lower tooth count can help you get the most out of a smaller bandsaw.
Corta expo, breve si breve!
what a tease. milling a log, and not giving us a close up shot of the figure. that's the most gratifying part! ;)
Sorry! You’re right that’s an awesome part. Thanks for your patience while I learn this stuff! 🙏
Works good, great explanation. Thanks Paul.
Thanks sir🙏
Good info! If you cut windows along the vertical side of the jug, you could line up the contact point of the log easier. Also, you need an outfeed table/roller.
Thank you
Just got a tabletop bandsaw for now, maybe one day I'll build a fullsize
That’s where I started too. Black and Decker. It’s a fun journey!
I just picked up a 17" General bandsaw and am excited to grab some of the chunks of wood from out back (also in MN) and start the drying process. Nice job on the video and you have a new sub.
Thanks for your feedback. That should be a sweet bandsaw. And thanks for subscribing!
Great presentation and explanation... thank you!
Thanks for watching
Wow, that was really good info and the jig would be perfect!
Thanks Carol. Glad it was helpful. Cheers, Paul
Excellent Laguna I have one too. Cheers Jeff
I LOVE that beast!!!
This is a great tutorial. I’m awaiting delivery of a Jet 14” bandsaw which I bought mainly to slice up tree logs for lumber. I have many logs that are several years old and if the moisture content is too low I’ll have to cut it all up into smaller piece and make bowls or small projects. Any new logs I acquire I’ll be sure to process ASAP.
Thanks for your feedback, Joe. Usually logs will stay pretty green, but the downside is cracked ends and after a few years the wood can get pretty punky. But, sometimes it's fine. One thing is certain, you'll have fun opening them up to see what's inside! Enjoy your new saw. I had that saw for many years and loved it. Cheers, Paul
@@ToolMetrix I was choosing between the Laguna 14” and the Jet 14”. In the end the Jet @ closer to $1000 made more sense. I have Sugar Maple, Yellow Birch, Sweet Birch, Grey Birch, Red Oak, White Oak, Pin Oak, Bradbury Pear, Cherry, Ash, Beech and some Black Cottonwood. I’m most worried about the Birch logs as I’ve already had a few go soft. The rest are still very hard so those I’m hoping will be usable for something. I’ve started building stave snare drums and will build smaller projects for logs that don’t yield large enough boards. I can work with 3” X 8” boards for most of my snare projects so I’m “knocking on wood” so to speak that I have plenty of usable material even if it twists up a bit. The amount of space I’ll free up by cutting up those logs will be welcome. Several small piles of drying boards will be more convenient Than logs all over my property.
Wow, that’s an incredible lineup of wood. You’ll be making some incredible drums with that inventory. Yep, birch rots quickly. The bark is oily and holds in the moisture, making it go punky fast. Best of luck!
Great instructional video. I always wanted to know how and if I could do this with my bandsaw with minimal cost. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. The main reason that I bought my first bandsaw 20 years ago was for this very purpose. It's fun, economical, and the thrill of slicing up a log from the yard never gets old.
well done Paul .great tutorial.
Thank you, Ahron!
I seal wood end grain with an old iron and scrap candle wax or cheap wax from a reuse store. Works great the heated wax works it way into the end grain.
Hi Paula, interesting approach. I hadn't come across that one. Effectively it accomplishes the same thing as the product that I'm using here. I like the idea.
Fantastic! Just acquired a chunk of maple myself. I plan on going to the tool library to slice it up!
That's awesome, Dennis! I just sliced up some maple myself this week, and I found a ton of curl inside parts of it. Very exciting. Have fun slicing some boards!
@@ToolMetrix -I am new to Minnesota. I have worked with "big leaf maple' (Acer Macro phylum) which sometimes had spalting in the wood. I think what I have this time is Silver maple (Acer ????) and I am not sure if spalting occurs across all maple species. I was told they cut this particular tree due to a fungus infection. There are some stubs where limbs had been cut off and it looks like there is a few years of growth after. The old stumps may have allowed the spores to migrate into the heart wood. I hope there is some spalting in the crotch. Sounds like a bad medical condition...
Thanks for the great video! Can’t wait to try this for myself.
Awesome, thanks James. Best of luck!
God, wish I had your Laguna! I use a Wen 6” resaw. Just bought it
Hi Todd, I started with a Black and Decker with about 3 or 4" of resaw, and slowly worked my way up to the Laguna with 3 other bandsaws getting progressively larger. With the right blade, and some patience, you might be able to make some slabs using the saw that you have. What I'd suggest is making that first cut using a chainsaw, getting it as flat as you can. Then, take the half round log and see if you can slice some boards. Or, maybe better yet, make two cuts with the chainsaw, so that you have a flat slab to slice up on your bandsaw. Get a 2 TPI blade for your bandsaw which will offer the least resistance, and keep your feed rate slow so that the blade doesn't meander through the cut. You can probably still get some nice 5+" planks this way.
I'm just getting into this with a small bandsaw I got for Christmas. Great fun! Thanks for the tips!
That’s great! It’s so fun.
Great video. Very easy to follow. I had made a jig for the same purpose but yours is much simpler. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback!
This is really nice video and giving me a scene how to do it when my 1st bandsaw coming
Cool. Thanks for the feedback!
Green Building don't forget you have to let the wood dry for about two years before it's usable
Good stuff. Waiting on my Grizzly 17" to arrive in a few days. Looking forward to cutting into some of the Walnut I've got out back.
We just set up my dads grizzly 17 inch saw. Wow what a machine. Absolutely love it.
I saw your comment about getting the 17 inch Grizzly from two years ago. Did you get it, do you like it? It you had it to do over, would you still choose a Grizzly? I can’t seem to make a decision on what brand to choose. I have been en leaning toward the 17 Grizzly.
Hi Jack, curious to know how well you have liked your Grizzly bandsaw. Also, which model did you get?
If you have a power hand plane, take about 4 minutes to create a flat bottom on the log to increase the stability. You can also make a flat at 90 degrees to make a better registration on the jig. It's pretty wobbly as shown at 5:30 in. The biggest issue with a bandsaw is the lack of support for longer logs. They can get pretty heavy and they want to drop off the far end with no supports.
That planer technique is a good one as well. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Another Great Video, thanks for all that information
Thanks Phil!
Great video, Thanks!
A small kiln may be useful to sterilize the lumber after getting MC down to around 15% or less as there are many logs/trees that are infested with wood boring beetle larvae.
I have seen people use air dried lumber in a project just to see beetles crawling out of the finished product a few months later 😢. Maybe an idea for another build video???
Hi Luke, that’s a great idea. Thanks 🙏
Very nice tutorial.
Thanks sir. Cheers, Paul
Excellent video!!! Would love to give this a try. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for your feedback. Have fun making some boards!
Very good video and well instructed. I've just cut some trees down for my daughter so on the strength of your video I gave it a go. Wow, I'm hooked. Unfortunately it's like making wine, you have to agonizingly wait before using it! But again, good effort mate.
Thanks for the feedback and good luck!
Thank you. Simple jig. Well done video.
Thank you, Joe. I appreciate the feedback, sir. Cheers, Paul
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I learned quite a bit and will being this in a few weeks
I appreciate the feedback Ron!
Definitely food for thought. I wish I saw this past October. I had a oak cut down and I split it up for firewood. I had some pines cut too, maybe I should try this. logs are 20" in diameter. Thanks
My pleasure, Richard. Thanks for watching.
Great video, and a topic rarely covered. Thank you.
Thanks Jason!
Nice presentation!
Thanks, Earl!
Very well explained. Thnx
Thank you, Tim. Cheers, Paul
Loved your video. I’m about to mill a bunch of logs with my bandsaw and this video was great. Very detailed and informative 👍👍
awesome! Thanks for the feedback, Sandra. Cheers, Paul
Very informative. I have a question. Tell me about your light. Did you buy that arm and add it to the Laguna?
That is an accessory that was available from Laguna, and yes I installed it onto the bandsaw. I have those same lights on my Laguna lathe. Now they have LED lights which would be a better option.
I like the jig. Ben looking for one. I Will make it. Thanks!
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback, Caesar, and good luck!
Is your Lagunas a 110 OR 220 VOLT. Tell me about your lazor printer one of these days also. Thank love your videos
Hi Thomas, thank you. that's a 3HP 220V 18bx bandsaw. Here's a video on the laser engraver: ua-cam.com/video/F_bxjA5E82c/v-deo.html
I'm going to guess that they would dry faster here in Arizona. I have some Mesquite limbs that I'll try this on.
Hi Henry, yes, absolutely. Also, I’ve found that short boards like these dry quickly. Pretty much ready to go within a couple months. I love mesquite, btw!
@@ToolMetrix It's H A R R Y.. But I answer to the dinner bell....LOL
Ha! Sorry bout that Harry! I’ve been overdue for a new pair of glasses for a long time now!
@@ToolMetrix I just got a new pair. lol
I really like the video, my main question is that if my 12” log is 24-36” long I probably need to build a support table to help handle? I have a 14” Laguna bandsaw
Thanks If it’s close to 36” you’ll want some sort of infeed and outfeed support for something that size. Roller stand, table, etc.
OK, I ordered the Green End Wood Sealer and the moisture meter.
I think I already have all the other products placed in the video.
Great! Slice some boards, Clark!
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing
Thanks!!!
How did you address the sap build up on the inside of the blade? Thanks for the great video.
It can be a problem with some species but usually not. Maple that I sliced up here is among the worst. If you scrub it off right away with a scotch brite pad soaked in mineral spirits it will usually come off ok.
@@ToolMetrix I’ll try that. Thank you.
I am cutting cross cut logs into "slabs" for cheese boards. What can I use to prevent cracking that is food safe? love the video and the tips for the band saw. I really enjoyed this! Thanks
Thanks Elizabeth. I’m not sure about what would work best. I’d check with the manufacturer of Pentacryl about food safety. Other than that you could seal with wax to slow the drying process but Pentacryl would work better if it’s food safe.
Light mineral oil.
good video in the middle of the Covid 19 deal and everything closed i gave myself a hairstyle like yours i’m curious as to what your ear protection you are using and do they stay put ? i’m a retired Woodworker that currently is between homes and shops at the moment due to a traumatic Brain Injury that forced me to retire early
Hi Craig, the hearing protection is Sensgard 31 (amzn.to/2vGoTuJ). I like them pretty well. So far they are the best combination of comfort and protection that I've found. That said, they aren't perfect, and they do occasionally slip and I have to adjust. Best of luck in your healing process.
Thank you for the video! Well done! I just purchased the Bandsaw that you are using in this video.
+Belle City Woodworking thanks for the feedback! Have you used your new bandsaw yet? If so, what do you think? I'm going to do a "deep dive" video on the 18bx after I get to know it a bit better. So far I'm really impressed by its power and resaw cut quality. Noticeable improvement over 14" saws which I attribute to the wider blade and maybe somewhat to the larger/heavier wheels.
I just purchased it yesterday, and am waiting for the shipping notification. I look forward to seeing your deep dive video! I am going from an 80's Delta 14" to this saw. I am so looking forward to the upgrade. I am in the middle of a project and the lack of resew capacity on the Delta is what prompted me to shop for a new saw. Thank you for the great video content you put on here.
Wow, that will be a nice upgrade! Yes, the monster resaw capacity is going to be great. I haven't tried to max it out with a 16" cut yet, but I'm looking forward to doing so. Thanks for the kind words about the channel.
You are very welcome! Keep the great content coming!
Is there a reason you wait until the slabs are cut to apply the sealer? It seems to me it would be quicker and easier to apply it to one large surface (the log end) rather than a bunch of small surfaces.
You can seal the ends of the log before cutting as well. I didn’t do that here because I didn’t have time to wait for it to dry.
100% valuable info!Thank´s Toolmetrix!
My pleasure. Thanks for sharing your feedback with me Orlando. Cheers, Paul
for end sealing; just apply some titebond and glue newspaper sheet. Works wonders.
Good idea. I use TB to seal legs on outdoor furniture. Works great.
Hi, Nice demonstration. What is the longest log that this technique will work on without too much trouble? Do you make the wooden jig to be as long as the log? Thanks
Hi Brian, thanks. You'll want the jig to be nearly as long as the log, but you could probably fudge by a few inches on each end. Capacity is going to depend more on the weight than the length. I haven't pushed it hard enough to see how long I could go with a heavy log. If you want to do longer pieces you would probably want to add infeed and outfeed support. You can find videos on YT where this is done, but at that point you are probably better off getting a chainsaw mill.
I know I'm late to the party, but how about using the miter slot and the opposite edge of the table to make a cross cut sled so you can get nice straight lines, really easy, with minimal effort?
That should work. I don’t know if it’d be easier but it would be a good way to deal with a log that was curved.
would a dehumidifier work in drying the wood a bit quicker or would it dry to fast ?
Yep that helps. I haven’t had any problems when I’ve done that.
good video thank you
Thanks Stan!
So i had an oak taken down a couple months ago. I have the base of the trunk that was left that is showing some checking already. i'm gonna cut it up this today and was wondering: 1. Should i just seal the ends after i cut it where it's already showing some checking (ie, will sealing the ends stop further checking) or 2. should i trim off the "checked" ends and then seal it (thus preventing any checking)?
That's a great question. There's probably a lot of "it depends" here, but what I would do is paint the ends now and then cut. It would probably be best to do a first coat of paint using a 50/50 blend of water and latex paint, which will help the paint get into the cracks. Then a second coat of regular paint. If you use the wax emulsion, that's probably as thin as 50/50 paint and will likely get in there just fine.
3/4 " is the max blade for the Laguna correct?
Hi Rick, the bandsaw in that video is an 18bx, and it takes a blade up to 1.25". The 14" Laguna saws max out at a 3/4" blade.
Thank you for the instructive video. You are however missing a step to do a perfectly squared cut when reliving the bark
Hi Rodo, yes that’s true. With small pieces like this I normally deal with that when I use it, if I need a straight edge. But you’re absolutely right in that it could also be done up front
Someone might have already asked this but with 352 comments…you have your freshly cut wood stacked up on your bench for video purposes but where would you normally store the wood for the year or so that it needs to dry?
I put this stack in the corner of my shop. Because the pieces were so short they were actually dry in just a couple months. Longer planks go up in my attic for drying. The heat accelerates the drying process.
I have a pretty decent size steel building shop (1500 sq. ft.) but need to figure out an area for storing wood that is drying.
Thank you Boss, in future can you make a video for Band Saw about Safety
Great idea. Thanks Nazmul!
Great info. Thanks. Do you ever have problems with the blade “gumming” up from wet wood? How do you deal with that? Is there any blade treatment you use. Mine gets so bad I have to scrape it off with a wire brush or putty knife. Also, it “gunks up” the tires on the wheels. Again, what do you do for this?
Yeah, I did have that one else from some soft maple which is notorious for that. I was able to scrape it off the tires. I can’t remember what I did on the blade. Maybe some pitch remover with the blade removed.
Nice idea. Ok now that I have the jig, all I need is a $2k bandsaw!
Hi Frank, you can do this on a much cheaper saw! you can just cut bigger pieces, and do it faster, on a larger saw. A 14" saw would be great for this, and you can find those on CL for a few hundred bucks.
Great information, thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. .
Thanks, Bill! Cheers, Paul
I like your idea. Do you use this system to make bowl blanks for turning? I have been think of doing something like this. Thanks!
Hi Tick, yes, sometimes I use this method for bowls. Sometimes I use a chainsaw for bowls as well. The bandsaw approach works well.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks. I will build one.
Looks good, Paul
Thanks, Charlie!
Great! This was just what I needed!
Thanks for the feedback, Atteljas! Cheers, Paul
I'm looking to rip reclaimed 6x4 beams, would a saw like yours be able to handle something like that?
It could definitely cut through them without any problem. I’d get a 2tpi blade.
@@ToolMetrix thank you
👍
Nice video, than you. Do you use that very often?
Thanks. If you’re asking if I cut up logs for lumber very often, I’d say 1-2 times per year. It’s fun and I love the free lumber but I only need so much lumber of that length.
ToolMetrix just wondering if you still like the jig, after having it for a while.
Yes. Definitely. Simple and easy to use. Works quite well.
Awesome video Paul. Great to see you!! Hope all is well in the Great White North!!!
Hey, great to hear from you, Matt! Thanks for checking out the channel. Merry Christmas to you and your family, sir.
Great video. I'm looking into getting a band saw for this exact purpose, since I have 40+ acres of mixed deciduous trees and want to make use of it. There seems to be wide range of horsepower in band saws. Would you give some guidance on the recommended HP for this type of cutting: 12+ inch log diameter. Is 1 HP enough? And second, if I have dried logs, although harder to cut, can I still re-saw and use the wood. Is the issue just cracking and more difficult cutting? Or something more? Thanks.
You can do this on a 1 HP machine but it will be slow going. a 1.5 to 1.75 HP saw will be a huge improvement. Mine is a 3 HP saw, and that makes it very easy work. Green wood will cut easier, and logs will tend to be cracked at the ends if they are dried without sealing ends first, but you can do it and in fact I've done it that way. Still allow a bit of time for the boards to dry some before using them, as there is still often some unevenness in the moisture content even if the log is mostly dry.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the quick and helpful response.
Should have left it on the Jig. But; if not concerned about even thickness this is a great idea as after it drys, you can plane it and run it through a thickness planer.
There’s really no advantage to leaving it on the jig. The thickness is established by the fence position, and by removing from the jig and just using the fence you can get consistent thickness.
I'm looking at the Laguna BX 1.75 HP (110V) vs. 2.5 HP (220V) for this type of work. Is the 2.5 HP going to be much better for resawing logs, or similar? Thanks.
Hi David, the difference on a large log is noteworthy. Check out my video on this very topic Laguna 14bx Bandsaw: Choosing Between 1.75 HP and 2.5 HP ua-cam.com/video/Ju6LUc3J1jc/v-deo.html
I am thinking about doing some of this myself. I have a 17 inch Grizzly. Any reason you went with a 1 inch blade? I need to get a blade for this operation and don't know what size to get. 1/2, 3/4 or 1 inch. Thanks.
As long as you go with a low tooth count like 3-4 TPI any of those sizes will work fine. I love the 1” RK blade because setup is foolproof and it tracks so straight, but for occasional cuts I use a 1/2” 3TPI and the cut quality is fine. A bit wavy compared to the 1” blade but definitely passable for rough cut.
Thank you for a very good video. Very informative.
Thanks, Matt!
I would like to mention, that board that has the pith which is the worst part of the log also has the quartersawn wood. Which is the best part of the log. So don't throw the whole thing out just remove the pith and you have two quartersawn pieces that are the usually most stable of the whole log. HTH
Thanks, PJ.
How much does a good band saw like yours cost? Is yours home shop grade or industrial grade?
The 18bx that I have sells for about $2k . You can see it here: amzn.to/33KnbUq
It's high end home shop or small pro. Laguna sells another line of bandsaws that are industrial grade. That 18" saw is closer to $4k.
Great video. Your explanation is easily understandable. I have two questions. First, is that moveable fence on your saw original (laguna) or aftermarket? Second: what would happen if I tried to do this with a log piece that has been cut (and remained a whole log) for a year or more? Thanks!
Yep, that is the original fence on the Laguna 18bx. If you did this on a log that was cut a year or more it would work the same. You might find that you have checking on the ends of the logs, but typically the moisture will still be high within the logs. At some point you will start to find spalting, then rot within the log. I recently sliced up some cherry that was sitting for a couple years. The log section was about 6 feet long. About 9" on each end was unusable due to rot penetration. The middle was all good, except for a couple punky spots where it was sitting on the ground.
ToolMetrix thanks for the work response.
I meant quick response - sorry
I live in SoCal where it’s dry and temps can reach triple digits in the summer, what kind of precautions should I take when I let wood dry?
I’d keep it indoors if you can. If you can’t, then at least keep it in the shade. These short pieces dry pretty quickly.
Thanks for nice video, although it's old . How would you make slabs to keep natural edge on both sides?
Just leave the bark on rather than cutting it off. One less step.