Wow! So much essential information in a less than 15 min. video. Wish I would have had this information before I started my bush hogging experience many years ago. Last year had to unfreeze rusted PTO Shaft left out in the winter. Never want to go through that again. Great job on this video.
I never use the middle link when brush hogging. Just connect the lower two arms and let it move up and down over the contours of the land. Never bent anything that way. I do have a piece of chain that is in place of the middle link so I can still pick it if I need to
Outstanding! I knew nothing but needed and want a Brush Hog. This was an excellent intro and primer. I feel comfortable now shopping for one without feeling like an idot!
Glad it was helpful! Here's another: ua-cam.com/video/3MaL5cC0eNw/v-deo.html And our tractor playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
For the life of me I can't understand why the manufacturers went to the collar-type PTO connectors. I constantly have difficulty pushing and pulling at the same time getting the PTO connected, whereas the button style is so easy and intuitive. I use my brush hog about 8 months out of the year keeping pond dams, driveways, and powerlines mowed, and I've found if I swap out blades every 50 hours or so I can get an almost finish mower result.
I agree on the collar type...not a fan. Yikes....that's a lot of blades. Do you sharpen them? I can get several years out of a set of blades even with sharpening them regularly. Here's where I talk about sharpening: ua-cam.com/video/gMu8frSiP8o/v-deo.html
@@PineyGroveHomestead I didn't explain my blade philosophy very well. I keep two sets of blades, and dress each set about every 50 hours. I don't "sharpen" them, just dress them where each leading cutting edge is shaped with about a 1/16" cutting edge - not sharp. By changing them out at least once a year I don't run into the problem of having difficulty getting them off, and I just put the blades into a vice and dress them with a grinder off the machine. Works for me.
They probably sell some sort of poly that you can bolt to the frame so the poly wears not the metal. Ive seen larson farms use it on some of their equipment
@@PineyGroveHomestead I guess welding quarter inch sacrifical plates would do the same thing . Never ran a brush hog so I'm just some idiot on the internet
I never have but it's definitely something to be cautious of. Tractor tires are pretty tough, but if the saplings are cut too cleanly instead of shattered, they could puncture a tire. Here's a video of some pretty extreme brush hogging: ua-cam.com/video/2LtKLLMwSRE/v-deo.html
You and your welder must be tight! Lol. You’re gonna have to get you a Yesswelder! 😂 Great explanation of the differences. I remember that video where you were getting that PTO shaft unstuck. Lol. Good stuff!
By tight, if you mean I just open up my wallet and say take what you need to fix this, then yes, we're tight!! Definitely could have bought a welder or two by now, but my welding skills are very basic!! I haven't mastered that neck snap "hood down" thing yet!! 🤣🤣🤣
I noticed on all three brush hogs that the back of the brush hog is open. Is it better to have the back open so the cuttings can "exit" the brush hog and not bunch up under the brush hog?
yes. When it's closed, whatever is being cut would have to be mulched. If there are chains that is to slow down any large items from propelling out. That's why the mowers alongside the road have chains....to not hit cars!
Now I have a small lot that starts level then goes steep up a big hill then levels off a good 50ft then up another small hill then level again. So a bush hog or finish mower will not articulate going from level to up the hill?? And same for when I top the hill with the tractor will that raise the hog up from mowing?? I was hoping that when you drop the 3pt down it allows it to move up and down freely. I understand when you raise the 3 point it holds it there but will it let the 3 pt rise or is it locked from going both down and up as well. In other words I need something behind my tractor that will stay on the ground over the bumps and hills.
What series is your PTO for your brush hog? I have a series 8 but I think a 6 series would be tough enough. I have a 73 hp tractor and approx 66 pto hp. Your thoughts?
Bought myself a nice well taken care of old 88 Kubota L 2850 end of last summer and am looking forward to playing on it this year.
Thank you for doing this video Brad. This is a great explanation to the brush cutters. Loved the "voice of experience "bit.
Yes....a stuck PTO shaft is not a good start to the day!! Take care, Gary. B&D
Wow! So much essential information in a less than 15 min. video. Wish I would have had this information before I started my bush hogging experience many years ago. Last year had to unfreeze rusted PTO Shaft left out in the winter. Never want to go through that again. Great job on this video.
Thanks for the kind words. We also had PTO shafts freeze up and had to chain them to a tree to pull them apart!
I never use the middle link when brush hogging. Just connect the lower two arms and let it move up and down over the contours of the land. Never bent anything that way. I do have a piece of chain that is in place of the middle link so I can still pick it if I need to
This is a good idea, I was just asking in a comment how well a hog would work on my hills and stuff just for that reason.
Great comparison video Brad, I’m surprised the amount of welds you did to make them solid. Have a great weekend Brad and Deb 🙂🙋🏼♂️👍🏻
Thanks Luc! I work my equipment pretty hard....especially when it comes to brush cutting, so I tend to need repairs a lot.
I didn't know do-diddley about brush hogs and found your video very informative. Well explained Brad
We use ours a lot!! Thanks for watching. There's some other brush hog videos in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
Outstanding! I knew nothing but needed and want a Brush Hog. This was an excellent intro and primer. I feel comfortable now shopping for one without feeling like an idot!
Glad it was helpful! Here's another: ua-cam.com/video/3MaL5cC0eNw/v-deo.html
And our tractor playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
good info; caught a old hidden stump with mine and it sheared one of the 3way mounts (that was a bad day).
JB welded; surprisingly has held.
JB Weld for the win! Here's another video on brush hogging: ua-cam.com/video/2LtKLLMwSRE/v-deo.html
Tbh a proper Bush Hog one we borrowed years ago didn't have that swivel top link but it had a chain to replace the top link
I've seen that.
For the life of me I can't understand why the manufacturers went to the collar-type PTO connectors. I constantly have difficulty pushing and pulling at the same time getting the PTO connected, whereas the button style is so easy and intuitive. I use my brush hog about 8 months out of the year keeping pond dams, driveways, and powerlines mowed, and I've found if I swap out blades every 50 hours or so I can get an almost finish mower result.
I agree on the collar type...not a fan. Yikes....that's a lot of blades. Do you sharpen them? I can get several years out of a set of blades even with sharpening them regularly. Here's where I talk about sharpening: ua-cam.com/video/gMu8frSiP8o/v-deo.html
@@PineyGroveHomestead I didn't explain my blade philosophy very well. I keep two sets of blades, and dress each set about every 50 hours. I don't "sharpen" them, just dress them where each leading cutting edge is shaped with about a 1/16" cutting edge - not sharp. By changing them out at least once a year I don't run into the problem of having difficulty getting them off, and I just put the blades into a vice and dress them with a grinder off the machine. Works for me.
nesecito information Como cambiar las cuchillas de una brush hog king kutter 5ft
They probably sell some sort of poly that you can bolt to the frame so the poly wears not the metal. Ive seen larson farms use it on some of their equipment
Yes, that would probably work!
@@PineyGroveHomestead I guess welding quarter inch sacrifical plates would do the same thing . Never ran a brush hog so I'm just some idiot on the internet
Very helpful video. Do you ever puncture tires from sapling stubs and stumps after brush hogging the bigger stuff? Thanks
I never have but it's definitely something to be cautious of. Tractor tires are pretty tough, but if the saplings are cut too cleanly instead of shattered, they could puncture a tire. Here's a video of some pretty extreme brush hogging: ua-cam.com/video/2LtKLLMwSRE/v-deo.html
You and your welder must be tight! Lol. You’re gonna have to get you a Yesswelder! 😂 Great explanation of the differences. I remember that video where you were getting that PTO shaft unstuck. Lol. Good stuff!
By tight, if you mean I just open up my wallet and say take what you need to fix this, then yes, we're tight!! Definitely could have bought a welder or two by now, but my welding skills are very basic!! I haven't mastered that neck snap "hood down" thing yet!! 🤣🤣🤣
Great job. Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the great info good buddy.
We use our brush hogs a lot! Thanks for watching.
Great info Brad.
Thank you....if there's one thing I've got lots of experience doing, it's towing a brush hog!
I noticed on all three brush hogs that the back of the brush hog is open. Is it better to have the back open so the cuttings can "exit" the brush hog and not bunch up under the brush hog?
yes. When it's closed, whatever is being cut would have to be mulched. If there are chains that is to slow down any large items from propelling out. That's why the mowers alongside the road have chains....to not hit cars!
Have any info or feedback on the agrix 5 rotary cutter? Mine is shakey
Shaky when it spins? It might be off balance. Output shaft bent. Stump jumper or blades bent. One blade missing more metal/weight than the other.
@PineyGroveHomestead yes when engaged. It's only a week old but I put it through a good amount of work, after watching some of your videos, lol.
Now I have a small lot that starts level then goes steep up a big hill then levels off a good 50ft then up another small hill then level again. So a bush hog or finish mower will not articulate going from level to up the hill?? And same for when I top the hill with the tractor will that raise the hog up from mowing?? I was hoping that when you drop the 3pt down it allows it to move up and down freely. I understand when you raise the 3 point it holds it there but will it let the 3 pt rise or is it locked from going both down and up as well. In other words I need something behind my tractor that will stay on the ground over the bumps and hills.
A finish mower follow the land better but it can only handle grass. ua-cam.com/video/hyXh-gjfF0E/v-deo.html
Interesting video.
Thanks for watching. B&D
very informative.
Thanks for watching! 👍
What series is your PTO for your brush hog? I have a series 8 but I think a 6 series would be tough enough. I have a 73 hp tractor and approx 66 pto hp. Your thoughts?
Not sure of the series but one has a 40hp gearbox and one has a 60hp (I think). I'd want a 80hp gearbox for your tractor.
With all that welding, it's time to get your own Mig welder and stop farming that work out to someone else!
One day we hope to have a welder. Thanks for watching!
Lot of misinformation
Bought myself a nice well taken care of old 88 Kubota L 2850 end of last summer and am looking forward to playing on it this year.
Good choice!