I know this is an old video but hopefully I get some input. Pretty cool to see the humble beginnings, and where you have gotten today. Good for you John! Will this type of filter remove tramp oil as well as clean the coolant! And is it 100% chemical resistant to all synthetic and oil based collants.
I filter the coolant coming out of drain. Just take a butter tub or small bucket drill holes in the bottom and line it with plastic mesh. It catches the majority of the chips and it's easy the clean out every few days. I use a small pond pump and a small tub like yours.. They work great. Nice job on your system!
My personal recommendation would be to combine you strainer with an automotive oil filter, a large diesel engine one. It will pick the tiny stuff well, and extend the life of the coolant and part quality, not to mention your tooling. Just put the strainer you made in front of the pump, and an oil filter post pump.
You can switch to a semi synthetics coolant if you would like to make sure you prevent rust. The shop I worked at got rid of full synthetic cause after the coolant would dry up it would cause rusting on our machines. We run our concentration between 6 and 8 percent
The rust might be from shop humidity. I use the synthetic stuff tormach uses as well but I only notice rust progressing when there's water on the sheet metal from condensation when the shop is cold over night. That only happened a few times when the shop door was open a lot during the day and I wasn't running the machine for a week or so. A dehumidifier might solve that. It'd help heat the shop as well. So far just a few small spots, maybe a square inch total.
See if a spin down filter would work for you. All you need is a fine mesh, they are very high flow and use a vortex to push the chips to the bottom and clean the filter mesh at the same time, you can attach a reservoir to the bottom and the chips will fall into it. Do a google image search and you might get excited.
As you were describing the "big blue" filter I'm thinking... "No way" haha. Im sitting about 4 feet from one hung on my wall for our water softener system. Also - We run water soluble oils around the shop and I've never really had issues with the milky-ness getting in the way of anything.
great video, i love the simple way you hold the filter to your machine i have a system that is much the same on my g704 cnc mill which i have a homemade mist cooler ( flood coolant to messy for my liking lol ) Daniel.
this may have been covered below but, any specific reason why you chose to filter the discharge of your pump as opposed to the intake of the pump? ideally the pump would then be protected from the filter as the chips/coolant sauce would drain into the tank. maybe its harder than it seems, I'm not privy to the coolant pump system on the tormach
A magnet in the bottom of your coolant tank will pick up and contain most of the ferrous chips you cut. Could also put one in the chip tray next to the drain hole.
Good idea. You could even glue a big magnet to the outside of the coolant tank, especially since my tank is plastic. My stainless blade chips would stick but all the Ti I cut wouldn't.
Good idea. You could even glue a big magnet to the outside of the coolant tank, especially since my tank is plastic. My stainless blade chips would stick but all the Ti I cut wouldn't.
+JohnGrimsmo just wanted to say I love your videos and ive been playing with cad for the last few months. drawing triggers and pistol grips for some firearms i have. I want to get into a mill and a lathe soooo bad. just need to get into a house first. then spend the next few years saving up lol. THANKS SOOO MUCH FOR DOING THESE VIDEOS!!!!
+toms place You're absolutely welcome! There are lots of choices for getting into cnc, basically everything from a few grand and up. Have fun on your journey!
toms place you don't need a lot to get a lathe it a mill, I've got both for less than $2000.00 total. Including going to pick them up myself. Check out a site called govdeals.com they have all kinds of machinery for sale.
Like the video I have a simple idea for ya I know you have all ready installed a filter for the chips but here is a thought for ya place a simple filter on the drane in to the sump something like a pillow case ziptied to the 90° it will help to reduse the frequency that you have to clean your filter and help when it time to clean your sump ... you may have to put a baffle in the tank to keep the filter off the pump (aka pillowcase)
Synthetic coolant is not the cause of the rust. Running at least 5-10% coolant/water mix will prevent rust and is rated for "moderate machining" you can measure coolant percentage ratio with a refractometer, they are cheap and easy to use. Oil based coolants will do the same thing but the only big drawback for me is the smell. Over time bacteria thrives in oil based coolants and the stench is unmistakable. The odor soaks into your clothes and skin. Also even small cuts on the hands tend to get infected with exposure to these coolants. Excellent videos, keep them coming!
Hey James, on the bottle it says that for light machining to use 20-25:1 concentration, that's 4-5%. I've kept it relatively close to that, although a bit lean at times. I do have a refractometer and use it often. This coolant has an odor but it never changes, never goes bad, never stinks, and never has bacteria. But I'm pretty sure it's eating my paint. I just mixed up a new batch and am running it a bit richer, it feels slipperier too, I think it's around 7%.
Very interesting video! I've been getting some unpredictable endmill chipping and wonder if this could be the same thing that is happening to me. Chips recirculating. I filter them out pretty well with a series of screens so nothing substantial gets through but now I wonder. Hard steel chips are unforgiving. I'm going to look into this filter. Also it just so happens that I am out of coolant and was about to order more Koolmist 77 but had wondered if it's the best stuff to be using. I guess I'm satisfied with it but wish I knew if there was something better I should be using. In my experience it can cause rust and staining if left sitting and I heard it sucks at lubrication. I'm always adding more to maintain the medium green color. I started using it because everyone says it's the most benign smell and healthwise but it find it burns and irritates my skin if left on for too long and kind of makes my fingers feel numb. Plus it makes my skin and clothes reek like metallic chemicals for like a day afterwards even after scrubbing it off. Anyone have a similar experience or a better suggestion?
Put one of the nozzles on that has 5 little 1/16" holes at a 90* angle, that's how I originally found out I was spitting out chips because those nozzles were clogging.
Good idea. I don't have any so I'll probably just check to see how much is in my coolant reservoir then tie a piece of screen around my nozzle and let it run for awhile.
JohnGrimsmo I did the test with painters screen which is a very fine plastic mesh you can get from home depot in the paint department. I let it run for about 10min and there wasn't a lot of stuff collected but there were a few tiny chips and one moderately sized one. So I'm going to do this upgrade if it can help my carbide last longer. Thanks for the video I never thought anything was getting through my series of fine mesh stainless steel screens but I guess some chips are getting though afterall.
Problem lies not in the type of the coolant but concentration and condition of the coolant. If you know what "metal shop smell" is, that's mainly due to bacteria and other funky stuff living in the coolant that has seen it's best before a long time ago. Apart from the refractometer which ***** and others mentioned you might want also to pick up pH test kit, which are quite cheap, to control also the basicity of the coolant.
No I'm not, can't remember if I'm even registered over there :P And to be honest, I'm so lazy that I would never ever do a full cleanup and sanitation of coolant tank every 3-4 months. In the tẃo machines I use at work, I've last done a cleanup 1.5 years ago and the coolant seems to be doing fine.
+mva That's a synthetic coolant that's supposed to be clear, even at 7-10%. Now I'm running Qualichem, a white milky looking coolant that I try to keep between 7-10%.
Late to the game here, but have you looked into spindown filters for removing sediment? Might be a good prefilter. www.rusco.com/index.php/product1/spin-down-and-sediment-trapper-filters
Rolltech Innovation manufactures machine coolant saver. Serious threats to productivity and health are bacteria and fungi which are commonly found in industrial coolants. This coolant bacteria filter has some advantageous features include: last a life time, with guarantee of extended life of coolant with bacteria filter - no consumables, no electricity, no chemical dosing, etc. It is a one time investment, ROI within 4-6 Months, Saves on input of fresh oil and disposal cost like etp treatment, or giving it to authorised recycler. These mineral oil based coolant are prone to generation of bacteria which produces foul odour, often from hydrogen sulfide [rotten egg smell]. Rolltech Innovation "Aqualogic" filter is an innovative and economical method of continuously controlling these micro organisms and the odour they generate. "Aqualogic" bacteria coolant filter consists of series of high-purity multi-metal fibres cased within a stainless steel tube. the dissimilar ions in the multimetal alloy bed undergo a natural electrochemical reaction, also known as an oxidation-reduction reaction. Which Kills the all the Microbial activity in the coolant 24/7 call us at +91-702-723-6191 or write to us at rolltechin(at)gmail.com
I know this is an old video but hopefully I get some input. Pretty cool to see the humble beginnings, and where you have gotten today. Good for you John! Will this type of filter remove tramp oil as well as clean the coolant! And is it 100% chemical resistant to all synthetic and oil based collants.
I filter the coolant coming out of drain. Just take a butter tub or small bucket drill holes in the bottom and line it with plastic mesh. It catches the majority of the chips and it's easy the clean out every few days. I use a small pond pump and a small tub like yours.. They work great. Nice job on your system!
My personal recommendation would be to combine you strainer with an automotive oil filter, a large diesel engine one. It will pick the tiny stuff well, and extend the life of the coolant and part quality, not to mention your tooling. Just put the strainer you made in front of the pump, and an oil filter post pump.
You can switch to a semi synthetics coolant if you would like to make sure you prevent rust. The shop I worked at got rid of full synthetic cause after the coolant would dry up it would cause rusting on our machines. We run our concentration between 6 and 8 percent
The rust might be from shop humidity. I use the synthetic stuff tormach uses as well but I only notice rust progressing when there's water on the sheet metal from condensation when the shop is cold over night. That only happened a few times when the shop door was open a lot during the day and I wasn't running the machine for a week or so. A dehumidifier might solve that. It'd help heat the shop as well.
So far just a few small spots, maybe a square inch total.
***** I'd give it a C- on rust protection. No idea what to switch to so I just got 2 more gallons a few weeks back
***** also, it completely destroys the plastic splash-guard. I don't know what it's made of. But it's not acrylic or lexan.
***** Gotta tell me what it is first :)
See if a spin down filter would work for you.
All you need is a fine mesh, they are very high flow and use a vortex to push the chips to the bottom and clean the filter mesh at the same time, you can attach a reservoir to the bottom and the chips will fall into it. Do a google image search and you might get excited.
As you were describing the "big blue" filter I'm thinking... "No way" haha. Im sitting about 4 feet from one hung on my wall for our water softener system.
Also - We run water soluble oils around the shop and I've never really had issues with the milky-ness getting in the way of anything.
Looks like a great tip ! Great work as always JohnGrimsmo
great video, i love the simple way you hold the filter to your machine i have a system that is much the same on my g704 cnc mill which i have a homemade mist cooler ( flood coolant to messy for my liking lol ) Daniel.
this may have been covered below but, any specific reason why you chose to filter the discharge of your pump as opposed to the intake of the pump? ideally the pump would then be protected from the filter as the chips/coolant sauce would drain into the tank. maybe its harder than it seems, I'm not privy to the coolant pump system on the tormach
A magnet in the bottom of your coolant tank will pick up and contain most of the ferrous chips you cut. Could also put one in the chip tray next to the drain hole.
Good idea. You could even glue a big magnet to the outside of the coolant tank, especially since my tank is plastic. My stainless blade chips would stick but all the Ti I cut wouldn't.
Good idea. You could even glue a big magnet to the outside of the coolant tank, especially since my tank is plastic. My stainless blade chips would stick but all the Ti I cut wouldn't.
+JohnGrimsmo just wanted to say I love your videos and ive been playing with cad for the last few months. drawing triggers and pistol grips for some firearms i have. I want to get into a mill and a lathe soooo bad. just need to get into a house first. then spend the next few years saving up lol. THANKS SOOO MUCH FOR DOING THESE VIDEOS!!!!
+toms place You're absolutely welcome! There are lots of choices for getting into cnc, basically everything from a few grand and up. Have fun on your journey!
toms place you don't need a lot to get a lathe it a mill, I've got both for less than $2000.00 total. Including going to pick them up myself. Check out a site called govdeals.com they have all kinds of machinery for sale.
What about also changing the coolant more often? ;)
Like the video I have a simple idea for ya I know you have all ready installed a filter for the chips but here is a thought for ya place a simple filter on the drane in to the sump something like a pillow case ziptied to the 90° it will help to reduse the frequency that you have to clean your filter and help when it time to clean your sump ... you may have to put a baffle in the tank to keep the filter off the pump (aka pillowcase)
Synthetic coolant is not the cause of the rust. Running at least 5-10% coolant/water mix will prevent rust and is rated for "moderate machining" you can measure coolant percentage ratio with a refractometer, they are cheap and easy to use.
Oil based coolants will do the same thing but the only big drawback for me is the smell. Over time bacteria thrives in oil based coolants and the stench is unmistakable. The odor soaks into your clothes and skin. Also even small cuts on the hands tend to get infected with exposure to these coolants.
Excellent videos, keep them coming!
Hey James, on the bottle it says that for light machining to use 20-25:1 concentration, that's 4-5%. I've kept it relatively close to that, although a bit lean at times. I do have a refractometer and use it often. This coolant has an odor but it never changes, never goes bad, never stinks, and never has bacteria. But I'm pretty sure it's eating my paint. I just mixed up a new batch and am running it a bit richer, it feels slipperier too, I think it's around 7%.
hi, have you tested how much the filtr slows down the pump flow? ...each filter has its maximum flow and usually it is pretty low...
What if you added a big magnet to your tank to help with the large chips
Very interesting video! I've been getting some unpredictable endmill chipping and wonder if this could be the same thing that is happening to me. Chips recirculating. I filter them out pretty well with a series of screens so nothing substantial gets through but now I wonder. Hard steel chips are unforgiving. I'm going to look into this filter.
Also it just so happens that I am out of coolant and was about to order more Koolmist 77 but had wondered if it's the best stuff to be using. I guess I'm satisfied with it but wish I knew if there was something better I should be using. In my experience it can cause rust and staining if left sitting and I heard it sucks at lubrication. I'm always adding more to maintain the medium green color. I started using it because everyone says it's the most benign smell and healthwise but it find it burns and irritates my skin if left on for too long and kind of makes my fingers feel numb. Plus it makes my skin and clothes reek like metallic chemicals for like a day afterwards even after scrubbing it off. Anyone have a similar experience or a better suggestion?
***** I thought it was specifically for titanium?
*****
Ok I'm listening. It smells like playdough right? I can live with that.
Put one of the nozzles on that has 5 little 1/16" holes at a 90* angle, that's how I originally found out I was spitting out chips because those nozzles were clogging.
Good idea. I don't have any so I'll probably just check to see how much is in my coolant reservoir then tie a piece of screen around my nozzle and let it run for awhile.
JohnGrimsmo
I did the test with painters screen which is a very fine plastic mesh you can get from home depot in the paint department. I let it run for about 10min and there wasn't a lot of stuff collected but there were a few tiny chips and one moderately sized one. So I'm going to do this upgrade if it can help my carbide last longer. Thanks for the video I never thought anything was getting through my series of fine mesh stainless steel screens but I guess some chips are getting though afterall.
Problem lies not in the type of the coolant but concentration and condition of the coolant. If you know what "metal shop smell" is, that's mainly due to bacteria and other funky stuff living in the coolant that has seen it's best before a long time ago. Apart from the refractometer which ***** and others mentioned you might want also to pick up pH test kit, which are quite cheap, to control also the basicity of the coolant.
No I'm not, can't remember if I'm even registered over there :P And to be honest, I'm so lazy that I would never ever do a full cleanup and sanitation of coolant tank every 3-4 months. In the tẃo machines I use at work, I've last done a cleanup 1.5 years ago and the coolant seems to be doing fine.
What type of coolant you used?
I am looking to change to blazer.
If only you had a CNC mill to make a mounting bracket with...
Why not get a bracket for your filter from an old small fire extinguisher. Al
a thread on the Practical Machinist forum that described how to build one for $100. And you know what? It works GREAT!
How about the link ?
Sorry, didn't even think about it. www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/coolant-filters-179464/
what name the inside equipment?
thank for this solution that was exatly what i was looking for
Duracoat the rust and you'll never have to worry about what coolant you use and never have to worry about the rust.
Just raise the pump off the base of the container since chips sink to the bottom
bro what percentage are you running your coolant at
??
+mva That's a synthetic coolant that's supposed to be clear, even at 7-10%. Now I'm running Qualichem, a white milky looking coolant that I try to keep between 7-10%.
Great solution. This makes me want to build one too.
Yeah not really. 220 live breaker that feeds the house
Late to the game here, but have you looked into spindown filters for removing sediment? Might be a good prefilter. www.rusco.com/index.php/product1/spin-down-and-sediment-trapper-filters
John eat some food, you lookin emaciated.
I wouldn't put any flowing water within a fair proximity of the BREAKER PANEL FOR YOUR HOUSE!!!!! Your kinda crazy guy js
You can buy stainless fittings from buyfittingsonline.com for the price of brass fittings for Home Depot and they ship really fast.
Rolltech Innovation manufactures machine coolant saver. Serious threats to productivity and health are bacteria and fungi which are commonly found in industrial coolants. This coolant bacteria filter has some advantageous features include: last a life time, with guarantee of extended life of coolant with bacteria filter - no consumables, no electricity, no chemical dosing, etc.
It is a one time investment, ROI within 4-6 Months, Saves on input of fresh oil and disposal cost like etp treatment, or giving it to authorised recycler.
These mineral oil based coolant are prone to generation of bacteria which produces foul odour, often from hydrogen sulfide [rotten egg smell].
Rolltech Innovation "Aqualogic" filter is an innovative and economical method of continuously controlling these micro organisms and the odour they generate. "Aqualogic" bacteria coolant filter consists of series of high-purity multi-metal fibres cased within a stainless steel tube. the dissimilar ions in the multimetal alloy bed undergo a natural electrochemical reaction, also known as an oxidation-reduction reaction. Which Kills the all the Microbial activity in the coolant 24/7
call us at +91-702-723-6191 or write to us at rolltechin(at)gmail.com