So if you're here because you need to change your inlet manifold rubbers but your carbs are ok its easier to not remove the carbs. Just loosen everything and if necessary cut your old rubbers out( if there perished there going in the bin anyway) but of fiddling but so is removing the carbs lol.
Good call Chris , but if you're upgrading to 36y do the airbox slot mod . But yes leave carbs in if only changing rubbers I hadn't thought of that . But my carbs needed sorting anyway .✌💗👍
You're spot on my friend, Still need to do the air box mod but yes I've literally just removed the old ones (cracked to buggery) much easier to fit the new 36y ones due to smaller size but thanks, your vids have been invaluable and are where I started from. trevorsboy.
Peter Clark I went for a ride the next day and 3 was equally as hot as the others and still ran like rubbish so I gave up and took it to a pro and even he got it to 95% good ,I havnt picked it up yet but I'll let you know how it rides.
Yeah I did see that on the Video but it's not the Seat it's the Brass side Screw that holds the Seat in that I can't undo. On all of them they are solid. If I can't get any of them out I'll just have to put new Valves in & Cross my fingers. Thanks 👍
oh , yes ok the brass side screws , yes it's all coming back now.. i used a stubby screwdriver. if it doesn't fit perfectly sand or file the top down a bit so it seats solid . I think it's a. J I S head so pozi drive not Phillips.. sharp hammer taps on screwdriver should shock the screw loose .. just like an impact driver .. or use an impact driver.. but be aware the driver must fit perfectly in the screw head (sorry if this is all perfectly obvious) any way I used the well fitting screwdriver and hammer taps , or maybe my impact driver if they were really stubborn. so changing the seats is really important because of wear. even though the needles have rubber tips and will wear before the seats.. And if course under the seat us a metal gauze filter. which could be obstructed. but it's down to how comfortable you are attacking it. For me it was a no brainer I had the parts so I had to change them.
Hola, me podrá orientar cuál es la posición correcta de la aguja en la parte superior tiene un clip para donde es el sentido para el frente o para atrás gracias saludos
The clip for the needle should go in the middle slot . If you are talking about the needle that is attached to the slider and diaphragm that meters the fuel from the main jet . ✌️🧡
Hello Spingy hope your keeping well. I'm sorry to bother you again. Finally got the parts for the Carbs & I'm havin trouble moving the brass screw that holds the Seat in 🙈 Have you got any suggestions ? If I can't get it out I'll just have to put the valve in and hope for the best.
ah yes , me too . After trying everything else I ended up getting a drill bit (not on a drill) just the exact size to squeeze in and grip/twist. and they came out .. obviously this destroy the seat but I had new ones anyway.. also don't forget to swap the little gauze from the old seat underneath to the new seat..as i forgot on the first one and it confused me and the float height until I pulled the next one and realised I had left the gauze filter out.. yes I'm afraid it's brute force on extracting the old seat.. as long as you destroy the seat and not the seat housing you're ok.. I'm pretty sure the seats had o rings around them which was seizing them in.. (or I may have just made that up due to old age and a short memory 😉. hope you manage ok.. just be brutal with the brass seats but protect the housing they live in.. 👍🏻☮❤
Hi Springy, good video. I have an 02 XJR which has the same carbs as yours. I would really appreciate it if you could help. Could you tell me what you set the float heights to. The measurement given in the haynes manual is definatly incorrect.
Hey Buddy don't know if i,m going to be any help with the float height, I too could not make head nor tail of the settings in the haynes manual..and i didnt measure the float heights before and after other than to notice that when i fitted the new needles and seats the shut off happened quicker as the original rubber ends of the needles had worn a groove..when i fitted the new needles and seats the floats at rest with the carbs upsidedown were about 1mm higher than before ..as they were all sat at exactly the same height i took a chance and put them all back together..my thinking was i was going to get the float levels and the pilot air settings done with a carb balance at my mates shop..as it turns out the bike runs sweet so i figured i would leave it well alone,,and as there was no more overflowing i guessed the floats were back to the stock level(with the new needles now shutting off the fuel earlier than the old ones).so i cant really give you any more insight other than to suggest changing the needles and seats if they are original ..this of course brings its own set of problems ,,the seats dont like to come out..i had to jam a drill bit in each one to get over the resistance of the old orings..knowing i had new seats to put in it was ok..and i did damage the old seats removing them...also i forgot to put the gauze filter on the first one so had to redo it..luckily the new oring on thbe new seat allowed removal without damage...sorry i cant be more help...what is the issue on yours ? do you have overflow problems or is it just a well deserved carb strip and overhaul.. let me know how you get on buddy..good luck ride safe Peace and Love !!
Thanks for the reply Springy. I did have an over flow problem and suspected the needles were the issue. i bought all new and replaced and thats when i came up against the float height issue. Firstly id been given the measurement for the pre 02 and tried to set them to that .Then i realised that was wrong, Of course by this time id moved everything and had no idea where it should be. Haynes quotes something like 33mm which is impossible. Ive got them somewhere near using clear hose method but id love to know the correct setting to get it spot on. The bikes running but is a little fluffy occaisionally below 2000,missing now and then, once above that it runs great. The overflow problem turned out to be the tap, Doh, need never have touched the carbs afterall.
ah yes the tap! i did that first , a full strip to find it was working fine ! typical, i can only think the float height answer is going to be on one of the xjr forums..unfortunately the xjr forum i signed up to ive never been able to access im registered but theres some glitch and i hate tech with a vengeance , unless its my recording studio of course.. the only glimmer i can give you is the little brass\copper strip that you bend to alter the float height is on mine perfectly straight , this must be the stock setting for the floats when all is new..i did look closely at mine to see if theyd been altered before ...i think i was the first person in because those tab\strips were completely flat \horizontal , it was the worn needles making mine flood...it might be worth you checking this and using flat\horizontal as a starting point and with your new needles it should take it to the factory setting ? :)
hello again,I pulled apart my carbys and found who ever had the bike before had put the washer and oring on the fuel screw around the wrong way on 2 carbys.everything else seemed ok but is it ok to put some lube on the sliders?thanks for your videos there a huge help.
Paul Robinson Hey Paul sounds like that might be your fuelling issue..i set mine with new o rings all the way in to gently seat then 2 turns out ? ( whatever the manual said ) and it balanced out fime...ok to the sliders ...you can put dialetric silicone grease on the diaphragms to soften and preserve the rubber but on the actual slider bodys there is no lube that will stay put as the bottomnof the slider on low throttle is right down.in the way of the fuel air mix rushing by which will just remove any lube ...if the sliders are particularly stiff they have fuel Residue caramelised (not the right word) on the sides whicj needs cleaning off with carb cleaner ....the sliders should push up with resistance angainst the springs then fall down steadily then clonk at the bottom...if they come down like a sack of sh#t with no resistance then they are worn... .they do not go up and down freely ....you can tell if any are bad by trying them all you will see and hear if one is not perfoming .... So basically i have never used lube or indeed known of anyone using lube because it get washed /vapour blasted away... Hope it turns out ok i know its a bit of a chore getting in the carbs but then at least they are fixable ...we just need lots of patience ...good luck buddy ☮❤
Hi Springy, great video. I have an XJR1300 on a 03 plate and I have the same carburettor as yours. My issue is when the choke is on it revs no problem but when the engine is warm and I hold the throttle open at any revs in backfires through the carbs? I have cleaned and balanced the carbs (last year) and fitted new spark plugs yesterday. Any thoughts on what it might be?
Ok Stephen , well it's definately running lean . Either some of the jets are blocked even of you cleaned them last year . They can block up any time .. I would suggest you have a vacuum leak . Either one or more intake boots or even something simple like the fuel tap vacuum pipe is split or one or more of the vacuum caps on the intake boots is perished .. Easiest way to find a vacuum leak is to run the bike till warm . Let it idle with no revving of the throttle . Spray brake or carb cleaner around the intake boots etc.. if the revs rise , then you can pinpoint an air / vacuum leak .. Also have you changed anything since cleaning the carbs ? and is this a new recent problem . Did it run last year ok after the carb clean.. Lastly have you checked the engine oil level to make sure fuel isn't leaking down the bores into the sump due to a sticky float or a bad fuel tap .... One last thing , try running it and revving with the fuel filler flap open . If the filler vent is blocked it'll cause a vacuum.in the tank and starve the carbs .. very common issue on bikes.. let me know how you get on brother.. Peace and love 👍🏻☮♥️
@@springy-2112 thank you for replying promptly. I haven't changed anything since replacing the carb kit last year. Good points you mentioned I will try all and get back to you. Again thanks for your help 🙏 👍
@@springy-2112 sorry Springy I forgot to answer your other questions. It did run last year ok after carb clean and new carb kit fitted. It does seem like a recent problem, probably the last couple months but I don't use the bike much as I use my other bike. And engine oil is ok. Thanks again mate 👍
@@springy-2112 Hi Springy, I spayed carb cleaner around breather hoses but no change in revs. I'll send you a picture of the cylinder head rubbers, they look perished but when I inspected the I side it was smooth, indicating that the split has not gone straight through. I know in your video you replaced these rubbers with new ones, do you think it's worth while me doing the same?
Hello Spingy you must be sick of me Messaging you by now🙄 but this is just a Quick update... just going through your Videos a few times to get it into my head as to see what i have to do. You told me the other day not to run the engine as i had a fair bit of fuel in it & to just drain the Oil out. Well i did that yesterday & got 8 & 1/2 ltrs of fuel & oil out😢 so it has to be the Carbs. i've ordered the parts so you'll be glad to know that i will leave you in Peace for a while😀 Take Care & Thanks👍
hello again springy,I put the bike back together and it runs the same just spluttering at 1/4throttle but when I got home and felt the exhaust number 3 was pipe was cooler than the rest,do you think it's a coil or lead problem? it has new plugs.
Paul Robinson Yeah sounds like you are not firing correctly on no 3 ...i think thrre are only two coils each coil does two cyliders so you would lose two cylinders if a coil is breaking down ...dont remember seeing four coils ?? ...more likely to be a lead or cap...😊👍
Or fuel starvation on number 3 carb caused by a sticky needle it happens to mine every time I lay it up in the garage over winter hope it helps am about to do surgery on mine a gonna try neat carb cleaner in it sometimes it fixes it self Arrg. Peace & Love
Dalius Kudla It adds a bit at lower revs up to about 3000rpm about 5 to 8 bhp but takes it away at around 800rpm ..looking at other peoples dyno read outs.. It doesnt feel really much more powerful but its much smoother in the low revs ..it picks up the pace quicker (maybe thats more power?) I need to look to see if its had the 4 degree ignition advance or not... Its definately moved the grunt to where its more useful😁👍
Dalius Kudla I wasnt doing the inlet rubbers for any reason other than they were split and the 36ys were half the price of stock ones... The airbox snorkel had already been done by previous owner..dont know if the ignition has been advanced yet..wont be rejetting ...i could have done that when i rebuilt carbs...i didnt want more power or to mod anything just had bad inlet rubbers so changed them and like the little extra it gave me... The xjr 1300 for me is plenty good enough un modded .. I thought the video would help others that do the 36y mod .. It appears it has... Thanks for your input and support ..ride safe have fun And Peace and Love to you brother 😁👍👍👍
Paul Robinson Hey paul if it runs rich on idle it shouldnt affect the running at speed..the idle jet is overtaken bu the main jet at i think 1500 revs and you are pulling in more air also so it evens out...they run super lean from factory and hot so rich running normally helps cool the engine....but if it runs rough over 2000 revd i think it could be a blockrf main jet or a sticky or damaged slider diapragm ?
@@springy-2112 Decided to look at doing the inlet mod, but it appears the mounting has been slotted already. No idea how to tell if the inlets are standard or modified. Carbs on the bench, jets as clean as a whistle!
@@flatinsixth hey buddy the factory air housing mounts are slotted already but need extra slotting for the mod i would say if the slots look really tidy straight and painted like the rest its stock...if the slots are a bit wonky or sharper or the paint is suspect then it has been modded...i may have measured the rubbers in the vid ? not sure i will have a look..👍🏻☮❤
Don't know off hand . Bike is long gone and so is the Haynes manual .. I set them all to the Haynes manual specification and it ran perfect .. But can't remember how many turns it was probably 3 years ago sorry.. Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤
@@markbrady1794 You are welcome ,you reminded me to put the link and part number in the description of all 3 vids ..as I get asked this a lot . So thank you . Ride safe 👍🏻☮❤
So if you're here because you need to change your inlet manifold rubbers but your carbs are ok its easier to not remove the carbs. Just loosen everything and if necessary cut your old rubbers out( if there perished there going in the bin anyway) but of fiddling but so is removing the carbs lol.
Good call Chris , but if you're upgrading to 36y do the airbox slot mod . But yes leave carbs in if only changing rubbers I hadn't thought of that . But my carbs needed sorting anyway .✌💗👍
You're spot on my friend, Still need to do the air box mod but yes I've literally just removed the old ones (cracked to buggery) much easier to fit the new 36y ones due to smaller size but thanks, your vids have been invaluable and are where I started from. trevorsboy.
yeh that's what i thought.2 coils it has.I'll have to get a compression tester too and do that.thanks again for your help.
With the precision of a surgeon 😉. 👍👍
thanks for that,I'm pulling it apart on the weekend.
thank you so much for your quick reply.ill let you know the result when its back together.
Thanks for the video mate, it's helped me alot
👍🏻☮❤ you are very welcome . 👍🏻
Peter Clark I went for a ride the next day and 3 was equally as hot as the others and still ran like rubbish so I gave up and took it to a pro and even he got it to 95% good ,I havnt picked it up yet but I'll let you know how it rides.
Great stuff cheers springy!!!!👍🏻
Mark Wright
You are very welcome 👍😁
Yeah I did see that on the Video but it's not the Seat it's the Brass side Screw that holds the Seat in that I can't undo. On all of them they are solid.
If I can't get any of them out I'll just have to put new Valves in & Cross my fingers.
Thanks 👍
oh , yes ok the brass side screws , yes it's all coming back now..
i used a stubby screwdriver. if it doesn't fit perfectly
sand or file the top down a bit so it seats solid . I think it's a. J I S head so pozi drive not Phillips.. sharp hammer taps on screwdriver should shock the screw loose .. just like an impact driver .. or use an impact driver.. but be aware the driver must fit perfectly in the screw head (sorry if this is all perfectly obvious)
any way I used the well fitting screwdriver and hammer taps , or maybe my impact driver if they were really stubborn.
so changing the seats is really important because of wear. even though the needles have rubber tips and will wear before the seats..
And if course under the seat us a metal gauze filter. which could be obstructed. but it's down to how comfortable you are attacking it.
For me it was a no brainer I had the parts so I had to change them.
Hola, me podrá orientar cuál es la posición correcta de la aguja en la parte superior tiene un clip para donde es el sentido para el frente o para atrás gracias saludos
The clip for the needle should go in the middle slot . If you are talking about the needle that is attached to the slider and diaphragm that meters the fuel from the main jet .
✌️🧡
Hello Spingy hope your keeping well. I'm sorry to bother you again.
Finally got the parts for the Carbs & I'm havin trouble moving the brass screw that holds the Seat in 🙈
Have you got any suggestions ?
If I can't get it out I'll just have to put the valve in and hope for the best.
ah yes , me too . After trying everything else I ended up getting a drill bit (not on a drill) just the exact size to squeeze in and grip/twist. and they came out .. obviously this destroy the seat but I had new ones anyway.. also don't forget to swap the little gauze from the old seat underneath to the new seat..as i forgot on the first one and it confused me and the float height until I pulled the next one and realised I had left the gauze filter out..
yes I'm afraid it's brute force on extracting the old seat.. as long as you destroy the seat and not the seat housing you're ok.. I'm pretty sure the seats had o rings around them which was seizing them in.. (or I may have just made that up due to old age and a short memory 😉.
hope you manage ok.. just be brutal with the brass seats but protect the housing they live in..
👍🏻☮❤
Your supposed the use threadlock on those inlet holder bolts, blue as semi permanent fixing, nothing means they can vibe lose.
That's a very good point . I'm normally good at thread lock
And torque specs on every thing ..
👍🏻☮❤
Hello My name is bom. Can l have some information about the xjr400?
How far is tne gap between tne intake and exhaust intakeadjustad?
I don't know anything about the xjr 400? mine was a 1300 👍🏻☮❤
Hi Springy, good video. I have an 02 XJR which has the same carbs as yours. I would really appreciate it if you could help. Could you tell me what you set the float heights to. The measurement given in the haynes manual is definatly incorrect.
Hey Buddy don't know if i,m going to be any help with the float height, I too could not make head nor tail of the settings in the haynes manual..and i didnt measure the float heights before and after other than to notice that when i fitted the new needles and seats the shut off happened quicker as the original rubber ends of the needles had worn a groove..when i fitted the new needles and seats the floats at rest with the carbs upsidedown were about 1mm higher than before ..as they were all sat at exactly the same height i took a chance and put them all back together..my thinking was i was going to get the float levels and the pilot air settings done with a carb balance at my mates shop..as it turns out the bike runs sweet so i figured i would leave it well alone,,and as there was no more overflowing i guessed the floats were back to the stock level(with the new needles now shutting off the fuel earlier than the old ones).so i cant really give you any more insight other than to suggest changing the needles and seats if they are original ..this of course brings its own set of problems ,,the seats dont like to come out..i had to jam a drill bit in each one to get over the resistance of the old orings..knowing i had new seats to put in it was ok..and i did damage the old seats removing them...also i forgot to put the gauze filter on the first one so had to redo it..luckily the new oring on thbe new seat allowed removal without damage...sorry i cant be more help...what is the issue on yours ? do you have overflow problems or is it just a well deserved carb strip and overhaul..
let me know how you get on buddy..good luck ride safe Peace and Love !!
Thanks for the reply Springy.
I did have an over flow problem and suspected the needles were the issue. i bought all new and replaced and thats when i came up against the float height issue. Firstly id been given the measurement for the pre 02 and tried to set them to that .Then i realised that was wrong, Of course by this time id moved everything and had no idea where it should be. Haynes quotes something like 33mm which is impossible. Ive got them somewhere near using clear hose method but id love to know the correct setting to get it spot on. The bikes running but is a little fluffy occaisionally below 2000,missing now and then, once above that it runs great. The overflow problem turned out to be the tap, Doh, need never have touched the carbs afterall.
ah yes the tap! i did that first , a full strip to find it was working fine ! typical,
i can only think the float height answer is going to be on one of the xjr forums..unfortunately the xjr forum i signed up to ive never been able to access im registered but theres some glitch and i hate tech with a vengeance , unless its my recording studio of course..
the only glimmer i can give you is the little brass\copper strip that you bend to alter the float height is on mine perfectly straight , this must be the stock setting for the floats when all is new..i did look closely at mine to see if theyd been altered before ...i think i was the first person in because those tab\strips were completely flat \horizontal , it was the worn needles making mine flood...it might be worth you checking this and using flat\horizontal as a starting point and with your new needles it should take it to the factory
setting ? :)
hello again,I pulled apart my carbys and found who ever had the bike before had put the washer and oring on the fuel screw around the wrong way on 2 carbys.everything else seemed ok but is it ok to put some lube on the sliders?thanks for your videos there a huge help.
Paul Robinson
Hey Paul sounds like that might be your fuelling issue..i set mine with new o rings all the way in to gently seat then 2 turns out ? ( whatever the manual said ) and it balanced out fime...ok to the sliders ...you can put dialetric silicone grease on the diaphragms to soften and preserve the rubber but on the actual slider bodys there is no lube that will stay put as the bottomnof the slider on low throttle is right down.in the way of the fuel air mix rushing by which will just remove any lube ...if the sliders are particularly stiff they have fuel
Residue caramelised (not the right word) on the sides whicj needs cleaning off with carb cleaner ....the sliders should push up with resistance angainst the springs then fall down steadily then clonk at the bottom...if they come down like a sack of sh#t with no resistance then they are worn...
.they do not go up and down freely ....you can tell if any are bad by trying them all you will see and hear if one is not perfoming ....
So basically i have never used lube or indeed known of anyone using lube because it get washed /vapour blasted away...
Hope it turns out ok i know its a bit of a chore getting in the carbs but then at least they are fixable ...we just need lots of patience ...good luck buddy ☮❤
Hi Springy, great video. I have an XJR1300 on a 03 plate and I have the same carburettor as yours. My issue is when the choke is on it revs no problem but when the engine is warm and I hold the throttle open at any revs in backfires through the carbs? I have cleaned and balanced the carbs (last year) and fitted new spark plugs yesterday. Any thoughts on what it might be?
Ok Stephen , well it's definately running lean .
Either some of the jets are blocked even of you cleaned them last year . They can block up any time .. I would suggest you have a vacuum leak . Either one or more intake boots or even something simple like the fuel tap vacuum pipe is split or one or more of the vacuum caps on the intake boots is perished ..
Easiest way to find a vacuum leak is to run the bike till warm . Let it idle with no revving of the throttle . Spray brake or carb cleaner around the intake boots etc.. if the revs rise , then you can pinpoint an air / vacuum leak ..
Also have you changed anything since cleaning the carbs ? and is this a new recent problem . Did it run last year ok after the carb clean..
Lastly have you checked the engine oil level to make sure fuel isn't leaking down the bores into the sump due to a sticky float or a bad fuel tap ....
One last thing , try running it and revving with the fuel filler flap open .
If the filler vent is blocked it'll cause a vacuum.in the tank and starve the carbs .. very common issue on bikes..
let me know how you get on brother..
Peace and love 👍🏻☮♥️
@@springy-2112 thank you for replying promptly. I haven't changed anything since replacing the carb kit last year. Good points you mentioned I will try all and get back to you. Again thanks for your help 🙏 👍
@@springy-2112 sorry Springy I forgot to answer your other questions.
It did run last year ok after carb clean and new carb kit fitted.
It does seem like a recent problem, probably the last couple months but I don't use the bike much as I use my other bike.
And engine oil is ok.
Thanks again mate 👍
@@springy-2112 Hi Springy, I spayed carb cleaner around breather hoses but no change in revs. I'll send you a picture of the cylinder head rubbers, they look perished but when I inspected the I side it was smooth, indicating that the split has not gone straight through.
I know in your video you replaced these rubbers with new ones, do you think it's worth while me doing the same?
@@springy-2112 don't know how to attach / send a picture lol
Hello Spingy you must be sick of me Messaging you by now🙄 but this is just a Quick update...
just going through your Videos a few times to get it into my head as to see what i have to do. You told me the other day not to run the engine as i had a fair bit of fuel in it & to just drain the Oil out.
Well i did that yesterday & got 8 & 1/2 ltrs of fuel & oil out😢
so it has to be the Carbs.
i've ordered the parts so you'll be glad to know that i will leave you in Peace for a while😀
Take Care & Thanks👍
holy smoke that's a lot of fuel/oil !!!
must be a float sticking .. feel free to comment /ask /update it's no problem at all 👍🏻☮❤
hello again springy,I put the bike back together and it runs the same just spluttering at 1/4throttle but when I got home and felt the exhaust number 3 was pipe was cooler than the rest,do you think it's a coil or lead problem? it has new plugs.
Paul Robinson
Yeah sounds like you are not firing correctly on no 3
...i think thrre are only two coils each coil does two cyliders so you would lose two cylinders if a coil is breaking down ...dont remember seeing four coils ?? ...more likely to be a lead or cap...😊👍
Or fuel starvation on number 3 carb caused by a sticky needle it happens to mine every time I lay it up in the garage over winter hope it helps am about to do surgery on mine a gonna try neat carb cleaner in it sometimes it fixes it self Arrg. Peace & Love
All you need now is a second camera and another tripod. The faffing around has only just begun mate. Bwah ha ha ha ha !!!
Volgnit
And a camera person and sound crew and production team and editor 😁
great job ;) how much power adds it? :)
Dalius Kudla
It adds a bit at lower revs up to about 3000rpm about 5 to 8 bhp but takes it away at around 800rpm ..looking at other peoples dyno read outs..
It doesnt feel really much more powerful but its much smoother in the low revs ..it picks up the pace quicker (maybe thats more power?)
I need to look to see if its had the 4 degree ignition advance or not...
Its definately moved the grunt to where its more useful😁👍
someone put in bigger jets and make needles up thats will increase power :) i can send you information about it :)
www.tapatalk.com/groups/yamahaxjrclub/are-any-of-these-mods-really-effective-and-worth-t-t1584.html
Dalius Kudla
I wasnt doing the inlet rubbers for any reason other than they were split and the 36ys were half the price of stock ones...
The airbox snorkel had already been done by previous owner..dont know if the ignition has been advanced yet..wont be rejetting ...i could have done that when i rebuilt carbs...i didnt want more power or to mod anything just had bad inlet rubbers so changed them and like the little extra it gave me...
The xjr 1300 for me is plenty good enough un modded ..
I thought the video would help others that do the 36y mod ..
It appears it has...
Thanks for your input and support ..ride safe have fun
And Peace and Love to you brother 😁👍👍👍
Thanks, you too :)
hello.I have a 1999 xjr and it runs rich would that cause it to run rough over 2000 rpm
Paul Robinson
Hey paul if it runs rich on idle it shouldnt affect the running at speed..the idle jet is overtaken bu the main jet at i think 1500 revs and you are pulling in more air also so it evens out...they run super lean from factory and hot so rich running normally helps cool the engine....but if it runs rough over 2000 revd i think it could be a blockrf main jet or a sticky or damaged slider diapragm ?
I got a 1998 XJR1200, assume the carb clean process is similar?
yeah slightly different size carbs but the components are the same👍🏻☮❤
@@springy-2112 Decided to look at doing the inlet mod, but it appears the mounting has been slotted already. No idea how to tell if the inlets are standard or modified. Carbs on the bench, jets as clean as a whistle!
@@flatinsixth
hey buddy the factory air housing mounts are slotted already but need extra slotting for the mod i would say if the slots look really tidy straight and painted like the rest its stock...if the slots are a bit wonky or sharper or the paint is suspect then it has been modded...i may have measured the rubbers in the vid ? not sure i will have a look..👍🏻☮❤
Hi! What is the factory position of the lower pilot screw? How many turns?
Don't know off hand . Bike is long gone and so is the Haynes manual ..
I set them all to the Haynes manual specification and it ran perfect .. But can't remember how many turns it was probably 3 years ago sorry..
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤
@@springy-2112 Thanks
Hi mate what intake rubbers did you use ?
36y from yambits UK you can ring them they're very helpful .
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤www.yambits.co.uk/
36y part number ..
@@springy-2112 thanks brov
@@markbrady1794
You are welcome ,you reminded me to put the link and part number in the description of all 3 vids ..as I get asked this a lot . So thank you . Ride safe
👍🏻☮❤
@@springy-2112 all bits on way so fun weekend for me thanks again
Hi mate could I talk to you or do you just want me to text?