Smith and Wesson 617-6 revolver update. Spent 6 weeks at the factory but fixed
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Update on this gun that had 3 issues, light primer strikes with FTF up to 5 per cylinder, spitting lead due to out of time cylinder and a slightly canted barrel. Took the factory 6 weeks to fix it to how it should have left the factory in the first place.
🇦🇺😎👍Nice…those little 617s are a timeless little piece. Never to rust and I guess they will last for many generations to come
Thanks for the update! I was going to buy one, but now I won’t!
maybe you will get lucky and get a good one. they did fix it after a 6 week stay in the factory. i just went to the range a couple of days ago and shot the 617 along with a 1964 model 17(bought used with a lot of cosmetic issues). the 17 only has 6 shots and shot cleaner( no lead buildup around the forcing cone and top strap). the 617 seemed to have less buildup compared to the last outing. accuracy was equal. DA was more smoother with the 17 over the 617( that may just be from use afterall the other one was from 1964). SA was the same. the 17 balances better without the full lug but the 617 better replicates a 686 if you are using it as a training tool( i don't).
I have a 1995 6” dreaded aluminum cylinder 617-2. The timing is perfect between all ten chambers. I enjoy the balance of the cylinder being almost 5 ounces lighter. As far as my research, no one has complained about the aluminum wearing out.
Thanks for video, I had heard of checking the timing but didn't realize needed to check it on all cylinders, of course having someone tell you they were getting lead spit and the lead all on one side of forcing cone will be a clue also. I'll keep that in mind when re-checking by used S&W!
What a shame Smith and Wesson just not want it use too be …😢😢😢
No they are not, I only buy pre Hillary hole S&W. For me Ruger is the way to go.
@@wickednasty6868 Smith lets the customer be their quality control. It’s a shame. I had to send a pistol back to Smith twice for the same thing. Then they sent a new one to replace it. The quality has gone downhill.
This is not first video I've seen on somebody having to send the 617 back.
On your test of empty brass, those impacts looked sufficient to detonate the rounds. I would suspect your ammo and try different rounds before I condemned the gun again. The .22 is notorious for duds in certain ammo. Edit to Add: I see you did use various makes of ammo. Looks like it's running good. :)
i like it now. there's less lead buildup after shooting but still more so than an old 17 i picked up. here's a video from last week. if i use 36 grain even less buildup.
ua-cam.com/video/Zfm8mBtWtm4/v-deo.html
@@Random-ld6wg One thing that "might" help would be to get some JB Bore Paste and use it on patches to get down to the bare metal and polish the bore and chambers. New bores have a tendency to be a little rough and .22 isn't sufficient to remove this roughness. Use it often until the leading starts to subside.
@@PileofBrass the lead build up is outside the forcing cone on the top strap and to a lesser degree on the side of the forcing cone. as the bullet is swaged by the forcing cone on entry. the bore and the leade looks good(naked eye). i may try the jb bore paste as i have some.
I had to send my 617 back twice due to light strikes. Its good now but had to go back twice.
at least mine only took one trip. it still sucked at the time.
After getting it repaired and shooting it again. Was it worth buying this pistol? Is this pistol picky on the 22LR ammo you used? Thinking about buying one but they only have the 4 inch barrel. I want the 6 inch. Great video. Good trigger control.
after coming back from the factory, it is not picky about ammo in that there hasn't been any misfires except for the 2 in the first cylinder shown. some ammo is more accurate than others but that us always true with 22 lr.
is it worth it? i am not sure. every time i use it there's a build up of lead next to the forcing cone left and right and the gas shield. not as much as before but i do have to find a way to scrape it off, so cleaning after use bugs me. the lead gas shield build up affects the turning of the cylinder after more than a hundred rounds and i have to brush it off at the range. a pick will work better. the trigger pull is quite heavy in DA even after replacing the rebound slide spring as they use a heavier main hammer spring compared to centerfire smith and wesson revolvers so it is more tiring to shoot in DA compared to shooting 38 specials out of a model 19.
i just got an old model 17 from 1964. it is cosmetically challenged but has a good bore. i just took it to the range first time yesterday and after shooting it quite a bit with 4 different kinds of ammo just short of 200 rds there was no lead build up at all next to the forcing cone, gas shield or the top strap. only bad thing is that you only have 6 shots. it does balance better without that full underlug. if you see an old model 17, that may be better but again only 6 shots compared to 10.
@@Random-ld6wg thank you for the reply. A lot of good info you provided to your viewers. Thank you again.
🇦🇺😎👍I was talking to my gunsmith and I noticed him cleaning my gun with brake cleaner. He told me it is the best for removing carbon and any other build up material on a gun. . Not too sure how it would go on a blued gun though ?
haven't used it but i hear some use it for degreasing prior to painting a firearm. i use powder blast and gun scrubber occassionally apart from the usual cleaning products.
@@Random-ld6wg⁹
@@Random-ld6wg😅😅
Not a good idea. It will dissolve ALL lubricants from the gun. Even in the inner mechanisms for the trigger and hammer. It will also dissolve any protective residue that protects it from internal rust.
Glad they got it fixed up for you! I try to always inspect Smiths before buying checking the crane and timing, on non pined barrel Smiths I check for cant especially the early crush fit models. Bummer yours had so many issues. Was it sitting in a gunshop or did you order it online? If it was in a shop I could see the crane being damaged via someone "cowboying" ie spinning the cylinder and using your wrist to slam it shut, and that would lead to most of those issues you had. Just a thought. Hope you enjoy it now that you've got a working piece. Did you have any other ftf other than those CCIs at the beginning?
it was in a gun shop brand new. i didn't know how to check for timing before i bought it. i just researched it afterwards after people in a gun forum explained the likely problem with lead spitting. the cant in the barrel was slight but noticeable on closer inspection. of course there was no way to know about the FTF till i brought it to the range.
There were only 2 misfires with more than 300 rds after it was fixed. Although at the time it occurred, which was the 2nd cylinder fired , it had me fuming thinking they still haven't fixed it.
my rebound slide spring should be arriving this week so that should help with the trigger pull.
Ridiculous at that price point, especially here in Europe. No way I’m buying one now because shipping it back overseas to S&W would probably be a huge pain in the ass.
How was the shipping process did u just fed ex it, did you ship it in the guncase it came with in another box? Im having an issue with mine with timing its shooting lead out of the left side i can feel it in my cheeks and also another shooter 2 tables away felt it.
wow exact same as me. left side and shooter several lanes aways complaining(there was no one in between). i shipped it in the guncase and i think i asked for a box from my LGS that fits and replaced the labels with the RMA label and sent it through fedex store. the lgs always has tons of these boxes as that is how they receive the guns from the manufacturers. they sent it back with the same guncase in a different cardboard box directly to my house. don't worry, once they fix it you'll love the gun. it usually sits there for 5 weeks before they work on it the last week though.
If you're seeing ammo that requires multiple strikes to fire that is not a gun issue, that's a primer issue. Rimfire ammo is well known to have this issue because of the liquid priming mix used can sometimes not be spun and cover the entire rim in production.
yes, that dud was a cci round too. since this outing i haven't anymore regular msifires. just the usual rare occassional one. i am enjoying the gun now.
I just purchased one in 22 mag. Besides some mis fires Mine is fine
i like it now. misfires rarely occur and likely due to the ammo and usually fire once rim is rotated. the canted barrel and timing was fixed.
here it is from last month.
ua-cam.com/video/Zfm8mBtWtm4/v-deo.htmlsi=If7SrVhY5uBP_eqR
Same problems as mine but fixed by gunsmith in my hometown in Chiang Mai, Thailand...so dissapoint with Smith poor quality...
was it expensive to get it fixed in Thailand?
@@Random-ld6wgJust only 3,000 Thai Baht or 86 US dollars.
@@happyrunchannel6331 it is still really bothersome to have to spend that money on a brand new gun just to make it work. i imagine it is next to impossible to get warranty work done from overseas.
ของผมมีอาการปลอกบวมไม่ไม่หมุน หาร้านซ่อมไม่ได้เลยครับปืนซื่อมาใหม่ๆ
ห่วยจริงๆครับ สมิธรุ่นนี้เจอหลายกระบอกเลย ไม่สมราคา การควบคุมคุณภาพแย่สุด@@wasan_m
Wow I’m thinking about getting one of these but a 22 that’s anywhere from $870 to $1200 maybe I better not .
for $800 it may be ok , if it was working ok out of the box. to have to send it back for 6 weeks to have them fix it the way it should have left the factory, definitely not worth it. i wonder how many days it takes their crappy manufacturing to do a batch of these revolvers from start to finish. then it takes 6 weeks for them to fix it up to spec.
the thing is these issues are not uncommon with these revolvers. most of the videos you see on it always praise it. there are some that are negative but usually buried by the other videos.
once it is working it is a great revolver. maybe you'll luck into one that is working out of the box. i still have to scrape off a lot of lead around the sides of the forcing cone everytime i use it after they fixed it. my 38/357 and 44 mag revolvers do no not get much lead build up.
I don’t want to analyze too much, but you’re shooting left a lot because your trigger finger placement. Way too much trigger finger. Ideally, center pad of first knuckle allows a straight pull.
center pad on a heavy da trigger doesn't work too well for me. check out mas ayoobs recommendation of using the first joint and rolling that finger in.
No! That finger placement is for single action only. OP is correct in saying 1st knuckle in trigger for double action trigger pull. If you look at some SA triggers you will see vertical serrations, that is to help keep the finger from moving side to side where DA triggers are rounded and usually highly polished to allow the knuckle to glide/rotate on the trigger throughout the longer pull. This is the preferred method taught by most shooting instructors and what is used by Pro level competitions shooters.
I thought he was pretty decent for double action. He got quite a few center shots as well. I totally suck double action.
Always pull the trigger with the pad of your finger, not the knuckle.