Great question! I was working on an old Colt for an old engineer who went to Japan. He was too old to do the work, but happy to micro manage me as I did it in his shop for him. This was back when I was doing mobile auto repair while going to college. I'm sure he's dead now. He was in his late 80's then. I remember what he said, and I remember the cat and saw dust smell of that old 1970's orange Dodge Colt I was doing a CV axle and timing belt on.
Brian is not only a well trained and knowledgable mechanic/technician but one heck of a trainer. Its a rare combination. Beyond those talents, his video productions are pretty darned good too boot. He's a "go to guy" for auto tech subjects. And I learned a new thing today WRT right turn / left turn and the "symptom reversal" in isolating which CV is failed aside from crawling under the car and looking for things like boot damage, grease splaying and those sorts of "Obvious" problems). Thanks Brian...you just taught an "old dog" a new trick! (Proving yet again that age old truth...You're NEVER too old to learn!)
Good video. You're the first person that has been able to explain what CV means: constant velocity. I also appreciate that you explained how the axle works with ABS. A couple years ago I needed to replace the left CV axle on my VW GTI. I bought an aftermarket axle for less than half the cost of the original equipment manufacture's (OEM) axle, thinking that buying a VW axle meant that I was just paying for the name. I was wrong. The aftermarket axle failed after 2 years of use. I talked with a parts distributor (sells both OEM and aftermarket parts) about it, along with others, and they all let me know that it's common for aftermarket CV axle's to fail much earlier than OEM axles. In hindsight, it would have been a lot cheaper to buy the more expensive and much more reliable OEM axel. The right axle is original, 12 years old, and still holding up well. This just goes to show that you get what you pay for. This time I'm getting the OEM axle for the left side.
Thank you so much, I may not be able to always work on my car, but I at least like to be educated so I can understand what is happening when it is in the shop, Good simple video, Good job, your video helped , this video helped me diagnosed the problem, very helpful, and I like your video because you give history, specs, background, details, Thank you again.
Funny how soap and water cleaning these boots once every 4 years or so followed by a nice spray wax seems to prevent them from deteriorating. I just have a theory that washing and waxing is beneficial to more than just the paint job.
wow brian you are awsome man.........like the true and sincere way of conveying knowlege to others...May God keep you healthy ,safe and Happy forever. your student zia
I did a lot of searching and didn't find anything even kind of close to as informative, helpful, and well presented. Logged in just for this. Thanks a bunch!
Great Video. The only thing ia that I have to disagree with you 'cause my Civic driver side (left) CV axle was making a clicking noise when I turned left. I changed it and problem solved. You say that the side you turn is the opposite CV axle that is bad. Well that was not this case. I could heard it clearly in my left ear and right by my left side (almost with my head out of the window) when I turned left to determine where does the clickin sound came from. I was doubding but I'm glad followed my perception of the noise and change the correct side of the CV axle. So Not always is like the opposite side of turning that has to be changed.
Yeah sometimes it's when weight gets lifted and allows more movement but if u You listen it will growl when weight is put on the bad axel whether or not it clicks depends on how sharp u turn/ what part of axel is bad
@aeneas101 YES. It's in a wet environment already. It only helps installation and protects the seal. The wheel nut holds the wheel hub bearing halves together and is in a dry environment. They also have a retaining device of some kind because it's what holds the whole show axle and all together.
I have used A-1 Auto for many repairs n replacement of parts. They make it very simple!!! I use A-1 Auto videos bcz they actually list the tools, equipment, tips and torque specifications on each repair. U won't have to go and find the correct tools etc once you begin the repair. No guessing!!! Saves me lots of time. Thanks Guys!!! YOU ROCK!!! Keep it coming!!! Respectfully Jeff Brown...from the Great State of TEXAS!!!💪
@Tapil If your car is clicking while at a complete stop and you're about to turn then it is your turn signal. It's on and that's a good thing. If it makes noise on acceleration then you may need a CV axle in a month or two.
Great video never click thumbs down I am disabled and a veteran 7 years in the navy on submarines and have a 1991 toyota camery 4 cyl that has 88k miles orig . I think I have a bad cv as I get a bang and the one side has ripped rummer I am going to look back in your videos for how to replace it I was told to allways to replace both I am replacing 1 and hope the other last a while longer.
I work on Audi cars a lot and it surprises me how many people still drive their cars after the CV boot has ripped and expelled most the grease. If it was caught in time the boot could have been replaced the saved the joint. Though now days CV axles are so common to fail they're pretty affordable to purchase a complete new or rebuilt one. ;)
That's not typical of classic outer joint failure on a CV axle. That sounds like an inner joint failure or even more like a wheel/tire issue. Check lug nut torque first.
Hello sir I have a question probably a future project hopefully you can give me an opinion before I go to a mechanic. But I just bought a car at an immigration auction and it has giving nothing but trouble. First of all it didn't have a fuel tank, then I had to do a tune up because the oil was super old and a plug was bad so i had to buy them all because they sell them as a set and it was quite expensive for my first car lol But one Of the problems I have now is that when it's raining or when its a really cold temperature sometimes even on normal days. This loud noise comes from the side passenger like I mean really loud to the point It's ridiculously embarrassing and other people turn around to see where the heck is that noise coming from. The mechanic who installed the fuel tank checked the car out and complimented me on how good of a purchase I made yeah right! I kinda think he jinxed me lol well he said that because the wheels where new the brakes look good the motor sounds good. Also the mechanic who did the tune up told me it's a very good purchase. So with that being said I have the understanding that it's not the brakes? What could this horrible sound be? It doesn't make a sound when I brake, just when I'm driving in fact when I'm coming to a red light or stop sign it seems that when I break the sound goes away? I'm seriously in need of help I already spent a lot of money hopefully you can help me save a few bucks if you can diagnose the problem and just have my dad change what ever we find bad? Thanks and sorry for the long thread. Merry christmas :)
+En familia con Wendy Romero Just wanted to add that I found your video typing "loud noise on passenger side" Hopeful to find an answer. I'm in desperate need I'm willing to upload a video to show you what the noise sounds like. I think I haven't mentioned what type of car I have it's a 2001 Chevrolet silverado 1500 LS extended cab with 145,000 miles.
I have watched few of your videos and would like to say that how you shoot them is very good and informative. When you were talking about turning and tilting and you turned and tilted your camera it was instantly understandable by the motion. I like thoroughness and bits of history too :) I'm about to replace front suspension bushings on my Subaru Outback wish me luck
You've done all the right things- I would try pulling the front rotors off and cleaning the mating surfaces and sanding the wheel mating surface too. Here's why. Imagine a rotor etc that's rusted on. Break it free and remove it. Put it back on with rust stuck to the back side and a corresponding divot in the hub. Now rotate 90 degrees from origin and reinstall. Voila! you are now wobbly AND unbalanced. No amount of tire balancing etc will correct that. = bent wheel symptoms.
We'll It's good I replaced them on this 96 accord! It only cost me 250$ for the parts and my mechanic wanted 150$ to install it. It's a good deal compared to these mechanic shops! I got a quote of 850$! Big ones to replace them on my 96 accord! WTF is up with these shops?
Juan Nunez this was a long time ago. The Honda Accord has finally been put to rest 😔 It was a great car and I kinda wished I kept it for the hash Canadian winters. But now I currently drive a 2012 Subaru wrx. And all I can say is I don't miss the horse power but I do miss not making car payment and the cheap insurance lol.
I got 2 "new" CV axles for my 1999 honda accord on ebay. They both look substantially different than they did in the pictures. The Driver side axle doesn't have the dynamic damper it showed in the picture (whatever. i don't really need that, but that's the whole reason I chose that over the other CV axles in its price range). It looks like it has small surface scratches on the axle, so it's possibly used, but I'll give it the benefit of a doubt because it only looks like cosmetic damage. The real problem is the Passenger side CV axle. It REALLY looks like it's been used, the inboard joint is different from what was advertised in the picture (having 3 large indents and a shiny metal color instead of a smooth, cylindrical shape with black color), and when I move the outboard joint, it hardly moves. It sticks and makes a faint, gritty sound. The other 3 joins move around freely and make a subtle, sloshing sound that I believe is indicative of proper greasing. The boot on the seemingly defective joint doesn't look like it's fastened correctly, and there are black marks where it looks like the boot should have covered. The clamp on the boot is crooked. I think I got ripped off.
Mr. Brian. may i just say thank you for your information and that it helped me greatly since I am completely mechanically dysfunctional. Also let me add... you have a wonderful vocabulary. Good day.
I was searching for the reason why my Audi was knocking when turning, thanks to you, I dont only know what the noise is, I also know the side to change and could even do it myself! I am very mechanicaly incline but never had a cv joint gave up on me... Great vid man!
I have subscribed to different mechanic youtubers for the fact that everybody is different and gives their own version. I like yours because you give history, specs, background, detials, even have a drawing board to describe, that makes it educational and interesting.. thanks B..
Thank you so much brotha!!! I knew it was my axle making the noise, but you just confirmed! My car always makes noise, but when you turn it makes even more noise!! But only when you turn to the right. And when you turn to the left - the noise’s gone!
You don't have to replace the hub, just make sure your new axle has a tone ring, and that your sensor doesn't get disconnected or damaged while you're working in that area.
The output shaft stub is not called a spindle. A spindle is load bearing and retains the inner bearing races. Those races are contained within the hub assembly on modern wheel bearings. On something like a Dana 30 or Chevy 10 bolt live axle, there is a spindle which is attached to the steering knuckle, and the axle output shaft stub rides inside it and drives the center of the locking hub mechanism independent of the wheel hub which houses the outer bearing races.
@conwaychowie I TRY not to cuss. I really do. As for the verdict- I REALLY prefer doing the job once right the first time so if the split is all the way around I replace the whole axle. Cost is usually close to the same as a rebuild- getting the axle apart to get the new boot on is MESSY and can often prove labor intensive. Split boots are NOT fit for even lawn mowers. (That's my personal opinion)
@TheSilverado1989 Lift the front of the car and inspect the Sway Bar End Links for bushing failure or damage. If they're bad, replace them. If they're not failing then back to the drawing board- perform more tests and inspections elsewhere in the front end steering and suspension realm.
Brian, you're the best online mechanic I've come across. Clear voice, steady camera shots, excellent focus and no swearing! (only kidding) By the way, I have a question relating to your CV Joint video. I have just discovered 2 split boots my front wheels but show no CV joint noise or bad symptoms. How long do I have before it's too late? (I drive city roads for only 10 miles a day).
CV axles have two joints per axle that are housed in the CV boots. A CV gator is a large reptile that lives in the swamps of .... you're not buying that are you? It's just another term used outside the U.S. for CV boot.
I thought that the most useful comment you made was at the end when you suggested putting grease on the circlip to keep it centered upon reinstallation. Books that you buy always tell you how to do something when everything goes right. What most people need it what to do when things do not go right. Another good tip was how to get the tie rod end loose. Sometimes that is hard to get loose, even with a puller. It doesn't seem to hurt anything to give it a good whack with a hammer. Again, that is not something that you would be likely to find in a book. I have had trouble getting the inboard side loose from the transaxle. Sometimes this is due to replacement axles having the wrong circlip. I have read that if you rotate the axle it may cause the circlip to be in a more adventageous position. I have had to resort to using a long chisel and driving it between the case and the axle. I have also had trouble getting the outboard end out of the hub. Some people turn the steering wheel and then whack the end of the axle with a hammer, but I wouldn't do that if I was reusing the axle. I just used a big puller, tightened it as much as I could, sprayed it with penetrating oil and left it overnight. Eventually it came loose. Thanks for the video, am looking forward to seeing more of them.
Brian: Word of advice. Most reman axles (if not all) use a POS C-clip made in China. Always use a OEM C-Clip, otherwise axle will pop out while driving. Autozone xles are nortorious for this...but just about all remanufactured axles (as well as new) are from China. You may need to use a machinest file to get the thicker OEM Clip in the grove. ;) You videos are great. :)
Interesting Little fact for the viewers, its the CV axles in a high powered FWD car that are responsible for Torque Steer, the transmission is never quite in the middle of the car therefore on one side the CV axle is longer causing it to twist more under high torque, steering the car
Here's a little more history: Dr. William E. Deming, an American statistician and professor, consulted with Japan after WWII and helped them establish a successful, competitive manufacturing discipline in many industries through a quantitative quality management approach. Toyota and their Toyota Production System (TPS), Honda, Yamaha and many other Japanese companies can trace their success back to his contributions. Ironically, his methods were initially rejected by American manufacturers.
Cv joints fail without torn boots. Also torn boots don't mean you have a failed cv joint. You can replace a failed boot before the joint fails and save the axle. Shake the joint/shaft and feel for play to tell if the joint is excessively worn.
Thank you, brainsmobile. You'll know when they're bad. Just listen when turning. Once the new ones are installed you'll notice the steering is a lot smoother too. I just went through this in September and it hadn't been since 1998 the previous time with a front wheel drive vehicle.
@8057joe Sounds like it may be an inboard joint failure. You can verify this by wiggling the inboard joint and checking for play. This is less common, but happens well enough.
*continued* Is the engine able to crank at all when you start it? If not, see if you can get a big wrench around the bolt at the end of the crank, and try to turn the engine by hand. If it won't budge, there's a big problem. Check the oil dipstick and make sure there's oil in the engine. Best of luck!
Whats sucks on early toyotas, right side axle is also connected to rear engine mount - which needs replacing at some point - but will need axle to come off first. I'm at that point - and I dont want a mechanic messing with an axle with a chance of messing something up. Im ready to mickey mouse the 'mount's circle rubber bushing' (mine is shot completely) by stuffing some rope thru it/something of that nature, to stop engine from excess play and dampen a little ! If you can suggest a material that might work without judging that'd be sick . Sienna 98 220k.
@happy543210 You'll notice that many buicks use CV axles, but the plastic boots on them never fail. They also have timing chains. The weakness on a Buick? An intake manifold gasket that dissolves in antifreeze! And rod bearings that self destruct in the presence of antifreeze. I believe it was the White Truck Company that built trucks SO WELL that they went out of business because of no repeat business.
as a kid i bought an olds fwd toranado that would click when turning corners . being a broke teen i pulled both axels cleaned them up replaced the boots and switched left for right , now it only clicked in reverse .drove it for years , no problem . ha
Can't tell you enough how many times your videos have helped me. Thanks for being such a good teacher, I'm going to put watched all Briansmobile1 videos on my resume :D
@YBR916 Boy I'd have to drive it to listen for a location. It'ts either the CV, the transaxle, or the wheel bearings from the description. I'd get some one near you with a trained ear to drive it/ look at it. I would drive it and then put the front end up in the air and rotate/ listen with the wheel on an then off.
Brian, I have a 97 blazer and the front passenger side wheel is making a clunking sound with wheel speed. As a knee jerk reaction I replaced the wheel bearing, it didn't change. I threw the spare tire on and it didn't change either. The noise if really only noticeable at low speeds and you can feel the clunk too. I jacked the car up and slowly spun the wheel..
Thank you Brian, this video is extremely helpful. I'm noticing a click when I turn right so its time to get the left cv axle replaced. I might as well get both done if its not too expensive, pushing on 150k miles.
You mentioned when turning that power transfers to the side with the weight how ever all stock differentials on any application put power to the dude with the least resistance. And I've also heard then called trans axels other then that watching this made Mr a lil more confident with what I'm doing. Thanks
Your video had great information Brian, I've watched quite a few of your videos and they are all a great help. I hope you don't take offense with my next comment, though. You mentioned countries where we dropped the atomic bomb. We dropped two Abombs, One on Hiroshima and one on Nagasaki, both of which are part of japan. We helped rebuild Germany, Japan and other countries affected by the war. We've never dropped another A bomb on anyone besides Japan. If I've offended you, I apologize..
@YBR916 If it does it when you give it gas it could be an inner joint failure (less common). If this is the case it should be quiet when you coast straight and are off the gas.
I had my 2000 Focus making the clanking noise when it was turning for about a month. I had both my brothers who have worked on vehicles look at it and neither could figure out what it was. Today, I was driving it and as I turning and putting gas into it all the sudden the car was not accelerating and the clanking noise kept getting more increased as i put more gas into it. I realize now that this is exactly what it is. Also my parking system no longer keeps the car in park. First time we tried to take it and jack it up to see what's going wrong and it does not make any noise when jacked up while turning. On the ground it does. Thought it may have something to do with struts but now that the vehicle no longer moves I'm convinced it is the CV axle.
Strange that 2 guys who have worked on vehicles couldn't immediately tell you what it was. My wife has never worked on a car and knows what that sound means. Maybe it's an experience thing. If you've never run into that problem, you just don't know I guess. This is a fairly common one though.
Brian, You sound just like my nephew. Then i saw the Minnesota license plates from under the car. I recently squired a 2005 Cadillac Deville hearse. It makes a clunking sound when it shifts, and also when I release the brake
I found a bad CV in my car tonight while doing some bearings. This video confirmed and explained exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks. I just wish it was a cheaper part. hah
Often times tire damage will manifest like that. I'm at a real handicap not being able to hear/drive it first hand. The neighborhood of causes looks like this- differential prob, inner tie rod, tire damage, wheel bearing failure.
Is the car a manual transmission, or an automatic? This can make a huge difference! If a manual transmission is in gear, and something has jammed the CV axle (separated joint, for instance), then the engine will not be able to start. If it's an automatic, so long as it's in Park or Neutral, then the engine output is mechanically separated from the CV axles, so it would be able to spin.
I gave ya the history, the anatomy,how to diagnose, what more could you ask for! what an amazing video this has turned out to be! Hahahaha! Great vid dude!
When you mention adding grease on the end of the axle to hold the clip, what type of grease would you recommend? Also, do you need to drain the transmission fluid first before taking out the axles? Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos, they have helped a lot.
Some Other Excellent Videos on Brian's Channel on Replacing CV Axles (just Search for these titles above): How to Replace the CV Axle on your Honda How to do a CV Axle on a BMW X5 SUV How to Remove a Stubborn Cotter Pin Like a Boss! Slide Hammer CV Axle Tool Stuborn CV axle tool for 1998 Mazda Millenia Left Axle Thanks again for the Great videos Brian!!
A Celica! Awesome! I have one of these and I'll be swapping out both CV axles in a couple of weeks, so this was really interesting and helpful to see. Thanks a lot, Brian!
@9b8 (Cont.) Harley Davidson, who was such a company that rejected Deming's techniques, later adopted them after visiting a Honda plant and seeing how it impacted and improved their processes. Six Sigma, a process, product and service quality management methodology, also have great influence from Deming. Big companies such as Motorolla (who developed Six Sigma), GE, Honeywell, Intel, Boeing, 3M, Amazon, IBM and orgs like NASA all employ the quantitative quality management techniques.
Great video ! I have a 94 escort and a clicking or grinding noise has been happening for about 7 years now. It has really got bad in the past month. As you said 'turning to the left makes the noise on the right'. Ford dealer ship here wants 860 dollars to replace it labor and parts. I don't like the Villa Rica GA Ford dealership anymore. Found out that were not tightening the oil filer and causing oil to drip onto my Taurus starter shorting it out 4 times. Even now there is still oil on the under carriage. They are crooks. Anyhow, thanks so much for this video and also watched another one on how to remove and replace the cv joint assembly. Have a neighbor who has the tools for me to do this. It will take me longer to do the repair than you, I am so maticulus about repairing my old escort. It has 240,000 miles on it and this is really the first major work besides the timing change. Again thanks so much. Reckon I will not do it this week or next week either. Georgia to have some of its coldest weather for the next ten days. Today is 60 degrees :-)
I got both replaced on my 2000 Nissan Altima. New parts, forgot what brand, my Shop uses quality parts. I paid $400. out da Door. includes parts, labor and Taxes. That was 2 years ago. Parts are still going strong.
Good video but if the c/v joint is that bad, surely you would replace the old hardened output seal while you have the chance to get at it - easy to do and costs about $5.Kudos for explaining c/v, but you could also mention that is not the same as constant torque, which suffers as a result and is why most front drive cars have torque steer to some degree.Also a considerable amount of transaxle fluid will drip slowly out of the axle opening, so be sure and recheck auto- trans fluid level when done.
Great question! I was working on an old Colt for an old engineer who went to Japan. He was too old to do the work, but happy to micro manage me as I did it in his shop for him. This was back when I was doing mobile auto repair while going to college. I'm sure he's dead now. He was in his late 80's then. I remember what he said, and I remember the cat and saw dust smell of that old 1970's orange Dodge Colt I was doing a CV axle and timing belt on.
Brian is not only a well trained and knowledgable mechanic/technician but one heck of a trainer. Its a rare combination. Beyond those talents, his video productions are pretty darned good too boot. He's a "go to guy" for auto tech subjects.
And I learned a new thing today WRT right turn / left turn and the "symptom reversal" in isolating which CV is failed aside from crawling under the car and looking for things like boot damage, grease splaying and those sorts of "Obvious" problems). Thanks Brian...you just taught an "old dog" a new trick! (Proving yet again that age old truth...You're NEVER too old to learn!)
Good video. You're the first person that has been able to explain what CV means: constant velocity. I also appreciate that you explained how the axle works with ABS. A couple years ago I needed to replace the left CV axle on my VW GTI. I bought an aftermarket axle for less than half the cost of the original equipment manufacture's (OEM) axle, thinking that buying a VW axle meant that I was just paying for the name. I was wrong. The aftermarket axle failed after 2 years of use. I talked with a parts distributor (sells both OEM and aftermarket parts) about it, along with others, and they all let me know that it's common for aftermarket CV axle's to fail much earlier than OEM axles. In hindsight, it would have been a lot cheaper to buy the more expensive and much more reliable OEM axel. The right axle is original, 12 years old, and still holding up well. This just goes to show that you get what you pay for. This time I'm getting the OEM axle for the left side.
RedondoBeach2 y
RedondoBeach2 m.k
I have a GTI. I know it’s been two years, but how did you decide your axle was bad?
@@alyamoney Lol
@@wheaterz7567 Hahahahahahahahaha.........hahahahaha, your damm right about that Wheterz, Patrick, slosses on the stick.
Thank you so much, I may not be able to always work on my car, but I at least like to be educated so I can understand what is happening when it is in the shop, Good simple video, Good job, your video helped , this video helped me diagnosed the problem, very helpful, and I like your video because you give history, specs, background, details, Thank you again.
Funny how soap and water cleaning these boots once every 4 years or so followed by a nice spray wax seems to prevent them from deteriorating.
I just have a theory that washing and waxing is beneficial to more than just the paint job.
I like to hit mine boots with silicon spray at each oil change.
Really? this is one useful tip Bro. Thanks for sharing. :)
Michael Block yeah putting some Silicone spray on the CV boots will help to preserve them as well
Wd 40
@@chrisaldana8164 No that will swell the rubber,you should only use armorall
@c10td You're welcome. It's fine to just replace the left. Look at the boot on the right. If it's good just leave it for now if you like.
wow brian you are awsome man.........like the true and sincere way of conveying knowlege to others...May God keep you healthy ,safe and Happy forever.
your student
zia
I did a lot of searching and didn't find anything even kind of close to as informative, helpful, and well presented. Logged in just for this. Thanks a bunch!
Great Video. The only thing ia that I have to disagree with you 'cause my Civic driver side (left) CV axle was making a clicking noise when I turned left. I changed it and problem solved. You say that the side you turn is the opposite CV axle that is bad. Well that was not this case. I could heard it clearly in my left ear and right by my left side (almost with my head out of the window) when I turned left to determine where does the clickin sound came from. I was doubding but I'm glad followed my perception of the noise and change the correct side of the CV axle. So Not always is like the opposite side of turning that has to be changed.
I same here
Classically it's the right side which is gone!
juju you yo guy you you you
Yeah sometimes it's when weight gets lifted and allows more movement but if u
You listen it will growl when weight is put on the bad axel whether or not it clicks depends on how sharp u turn/ what part of axel is bad
@aeneas101 YES. It's in a wet environment already. It only helps installation and protects the seal. The wheel nut holds the wheel hub bearing halves together and is in a dry environment. They also have a retaining device of some kind because it's what holds the whole show axle and all together.
Brian, I appreciate that your videos are clear, concise, informative and that you know the subject matter. Keep up the great work. 👍
I have used A-1 Auto for many repairs n replacement of parts. They make it very simple!!! I use A-1 Auto videos bcz they actually list the tools, equipment, tips and torque specifications on each repair. U won't have to go and find the correct tools etc once you begin the repair. No guessing!!! Saves me lots of time. Thanks Guys!!! YOU ROCK!!! Keep it coming!!! Respectfully Jeff Brown...from the Great State of TEXAS!!!💪
got a 08 buick lacern there is snap ring on the out put shaft of the transmission what do you do with that?
This was really informative and interesting. Although I probably won't ever actually undertake the work, thanks for taking the time to make the video!
@Tapil If your car is clicking while at a complete stop and you're about to turn then it is your turn signal. It's on and that's a good thing. If it makes noise on acceleration then you may need a CV axle in a month or two.
Thank you- I'm flattered you would think so!
Thx I like the a and p lesson.
@arkondlight No. It's not the CV axle. It's the brake pad indicator OR it's the splash guard sheet metal next to the brake rotor.
Is there a major difference between how a bad cv joint sounds compared to a bad wheel bearing assembly?
I thought I had worked through all your older videos but this one got missed. That's a great description of how it all goes together.
OH MY GOSH 😵...Thanks bud!!
The LF CV axle is slinging grease everywhere on my Subie.
I will get this taken care of!
Great video never click thumbs down I am disabled and a veteran 7 years in the navy on submarines and have a 1991 toyota camery 4 cyl that has 88k miles orig . I think I have a bad cv as I get a bang and the one side has ripped rummer I am going to look back in your videos for how to replace it I was told to allways to replace both I am replacing 1 and hope the other last a while longer.
"What an amazing video this has turned out to be". lol. True statement.
I work on Audi cars a lot and it surprises me how many people still drive their cars after the CV boot has ripped and expelled most the grease. If it was caught in time the boot could have been replaced the saved the joint. Though now days CV axles are so common to fail they're pretty affordable to purchase a complete new or rebuilt one. ;)
That's not typical of classic outer joint failure on a CV axle. That sounds like an inner joint failure or even more like a wheel/tire issue. Check lug nut torque first.
Thanks my wife and I were both worried, feel much better now but we will fix as soon as we can, again thanks for the help.
Hello sir I have a question probably a future project hopefully you can give me an opinion before I go to a mechanic. But I just bought a car at an immigration auction and it has giving nothing but trouble. First of all it didn't have a fuel tank, then I had to do a tune up because the oil was super old and a plug was bad so i had to buy them all because they sell them as a set and it was quite expensive for my first car lol But one Of the problems I have now is that when it's raining or when its a really cold temperature sometimes even on normal days. This loud noise comes from the side passenger like I mean really loud to the point It's ridiculously embarrassing and other people turn around to see where the heck is that noise coming from. The mechanic who installed the fuel tank checked the car out and complimented me on how good of a purchase I made yeah right! I kinda think he jinxed me lol well he said that because the wheels where new the brakes look good the motor sounds good. Also the mechanic who did the tune up told me it's a very good purchase. So with that being said I have the understanding that it's not the brakes? What could this horrible sound be? It doesn't make a sound when I brake, just when I'm driving in fact when I'm coming to a red light or stop sign it seems that when I break the sound goes away? I'm seriously in need of help I already spent a lot of money hopefully you can help me save a few bucks if you can diagnose the problem and just have my dad change what ever we find bad? Thanks and sorry for the long thread. Merry christmas :)
+En familia con Wendy Romero Just wanted to add that I found your video typing "loud noise on passenger side" Hopeful to find an answer. I'm in desperate need I'm willing to upload a video to show you what the noise sounds like. I think I haven't mentioned what type of car I have it's a 2001 Chevrolet silverado 1500 LS extended cab with 145,000 miles.
I have watched few of your videos and would like to say that how you shoot them is very good and informative. When you were talking about turning and tilting and you turned and tilted your camera it was instantly understandable by the motion. I like thoroughness and bits of history too :)
I'm about to replace front suspension bushings on my Subaru Outback wish me luck
Thank you, very clear and informative.
+Cardinal Knife Co. You're welcome! Thanks for subscribing and clicking like!
You've done all the right things- I would try pulling the front rotors off and cleaning the mating surfaces and sanding the wheel mating surface too. Here's why. Imagine a rotor etc that's rusted on. Break it free and remove it. Put it back on with rust stuck to the back side and a corresponding divot in the hub. Now rotate 90 degrees from origin and reinstall. Voila! you are now wobbly AND unbalanced. No amount of tire balancing etc will correct that. = bent wheel symptoms.
Great video! Very informative! Question: What causes an axle (or CV joint) to go bad?
Sure I'd be happy to. Thanks for the suggestion!
bravo. wish i had mechanics like you in my area
Thank you. Not only do you explan the technology, but also the history behind it. Great job !!!
We'll It's good I replaced them on this 96 accord! It only cost me 250$ for the parts and my mechanic wanted 150$ to install it.
It's a good deal compared to these mechanic shops! I got a quote of 850$! Big ones to replace them on my 96 accord! WTF is up with these shops?
ynohtnA i had replaced my own...not that hard if you git the tools and time and basic knowledge of car mechanic
Juan Nunez this was a long time ago.
The Honda Accord has finally been put to rest 😔
It was a great car and I kinda wished I kept it for the hash Canadian winters.
But now I currently drive a 2012 Subaru wrx. And all I can say is I don't miss the horse power but I do miss not making car payment and the cheap insurance lol.
you bay
ynohtnA ....plenty enough in looting those closer to shop..
I got 2 "new" CV axles for my 1999 honda accord on ebay. They both look substantially different than they did in the pictures. The Driver side axle doesn't have the dynamic damper it showed in the picture (whatever. i don't really need that, but that's the whole reason I chose that over the other CV axles in its price range). It looks like it has small surface scratches on the axle, so it's possibly used, but I'll give it the benefit of a doubt because it only looks like cosmetic damage. The real problem is the Passenger side CV axle. It REALLY looks like it's been used, the inboard joint is different from what was advertised in the picture (having 3 large indents and a shiny metal color instead of a smooth, cylindrical shape with black color), and when I move the outboard joint, it hardly moves. It sticks and makes a faint, gritty sound. The other 3 joins move around freely and make a subtle, sloshing sound that I believe is indicative of proper greasing. The boot on the seemingly defective joint doesn't look like it's fastened correctly, and there are black marks where it looks like the boot should have covered. The clamp on the boot is crooked.
I think I got ripped off.
Mr. Brian. may i just say thank you for your information and that it helped me greatly since I am completely mechanically dysfunctional. Also let me add... you have a wonderful vocabulary. Good day.
Ultimately you'll have to replace the axle. If now is a good time (before ski season starts for example or a road tour) then do it now.
I was searching for the reason why my Audi was knocking when turning, thanks to you, I dont only know what the noise is, I also know the side to change and could even do it myself! I am very mechanicaly incline but never had a cv joint gave up on me... Great vid man!
@kchak1616 You're welcome thanks for stopping by.
I have subscribed to different mechanic youtubers for the fact that everybody is different and gives their own version. I like yours because you give history, specs, background, detials, even have a drawing board to describe, that makes it educational and interesting.. thanks B..
It's a vibration dampener to help prevent new car owner mystery noises under warranty.
Absolutely replace. Once those joints eject the grease and are exposed for even a week- damage is done and the wear pattern establishes and continues.
Thank you so much brotha!!! I knew it was my axle making the noise, but you just confirmed! My car always makes noise, but when you turn it makes even more noise!! But only when you turn to the right. And when you turn to the left - the noise’s gone!
You don't have to replace the hub, just make sure your new axle has a tone ring, and that your sensor doesn't get disconnected or damaged while you're working in that area.
The output shaft stub is not called a spindle. A spindle is load bearing and retains the inner bearing races. Those races are contained within the hub assembly on modern wheel bearings.
On something like a Dana 30 or Chevy 10 bolt live axle, there is a spindle which is attached to the steering knuckle, and the axle output shaft stub rides inside it and drives the center of the locking hub mechanism independent of the wheel hub which houses the outer bearing races.
i totally agree. i was doing that for months. even yesterday. changing it out on saturday. i'll give you a call to keep you updated on the progress.
Best f*#king cv axle repair and education vid on UA-cam. Hands down. Thank you man.
@TheChev98 Axles click when under load long before doing it on a lift. Try to isolate the noise. It could be brake pads or rotor splash guard.
excellent video ...I learned a lot ...thank you and now I can pass this info on to my daughter ...she is having the cv axle replaced this week.
@conwaychowie I TRY not to cuss. I really do. As for the verdict- I REALLY prefer doing the job once right the first time so if the split is all the way around I replace the whole axle. Cost is usually close to the same as a rebuild- getting the axle apart to get the new boot on is MESSY and can often prove labor intensive. Split boots are NOT fit for even lawn mowers. (That's my personal opinion)
@TheSilverado1989 Lift the front of the car and inspect the Sway Bar End Links for bushing failure or damage. If they're bad, replace them. If they're not failing then back to the drawing board- perform more tests and inspections elsewhere in the front end steering and suspension realm.
@TheMcs33 No that's fine. One ring holds it in and the strata rings are from the manufacturing process.
Brian, you're the best online mechanic I've come across. Clear voice, steady camera shots, excellent focus and no swearing! (only kidding)
By the way, I have a question relating to your CV Joint video. I have just discovered 2 split boots my front wheels but show no CV joint noise or bad symptoms. How long do I have before it's too late? (I drive city roads for only 10 miles a day).
CV axles have two joints per axle that are housed in the CV boots. A CV gator is a large reptile that lives in the swamps of .... you're not buying that are you? It's just another term used outside the U.S. for CV boot.
I thought that the most useful comment you made was at the end when you suggested putting grease on the circlip to keep it centered upon reinstallation. Books that you buy always tell you how to do something when everything goes right. What most people need it what to do when things do not go right.
Another good tip was how to get the tie rod end loose. Sometimes that is hard to get loose, even with a puller. It doesn't seem to hurt anything to give it a good whack with a hammer. Again, that is not something that you would be likely to find in a book.
I have had trouble getting the inboard side loose from the transaxle. Sometimes this is due to replacement axles having the wrong circlip. I have read that if you rotate the axle it may cause the circlip to be in a more adventageous position. I have had to resort to using a long chisel and driving it between the case and the axle.
I have also had trouble getting the outboard end out of the hub. Some people turn the steering wheel and then whack the end of the axle with a hammer, but I wouldn't do that if I was reusing the axle. I just used a big puller, tightened it as much as I could, sprayed it with penetrating oil and left it overnight. Eventually it came loose.
Thanks for the video, am looking forward to seeing more of them.
Brian: Word of advice. Most reman axles (if not all) use a POS C-clip made in China. Always use a OEM C-Clip, otherwise axle will pop out while driving. Autozone xles are nortorious for this...but just about all remanufactured axles (as well as new) are from China. You may need to use a machinest file to get the thicker OEM Clip in the grove. ;) You videos are great. :)
Interesting Little fact for the viewers, its the CV axles in a high powered FWD car that are responsible for Torque Steer, the transmission is never quite in the middle of the car therefore on one side the CV axle is longer causing it to twist more under high torque, steering the car
@TehEndahs You're welcome. When people say they like them it makes making them that much funner.
You can grab them and shake them down for play.... you know for fun, but also to see if there's movement more in one than the other.
Here's a little more history: Dr. William E. Deming, an American statistician and professor, consulted with Japan after WWII and helped them establish a successful, competitive manufacturing discipline in many industries through a quantitative quality management approach. Toyota and their Toyota Production System (TPS), Honda, Yamaha and many other Japanese companies can trace their success back to his contributions. Ironically, his methods were initially rejected by American manufacturers.
Cv joints fail without torn boots. Also torn boots don't mean you have a failed cv joint. You can replace a failed boot before the joint fails and save the axle. Shake the joint/shaft and feel for play to tell if the joint is excessively worn.
@poching0521 I meant to say that... when you turn left the weight goes to the right side of the car.
I've only owned and consequently worked on cars with live rear axles. CV axles have been a mystery to me. Thanks!
Thank you, brainsmobile. You'll know when they're bad. Just listen when turning. Once the new ones are installed you'll notice the steering is a lot smoother too. I just went through this in September and it hadn't been since 1998 the previous time with a front wheel drive vehicle.
@8057joe Sounds like it may be an inboard joint failure. You can verify this by wiggling the inboard joint and checking for play. This is less common, but happens well enough.
*continued*
Is the engine able to crank at all when you start it? If not, see if you can get a big wrench around the bolt at the end of the crank, and try to turn the engine by hand. If it won't budge, there's a big problem. Check the oil dipstick and make sure there's oil in the engine. Best of luck!
Whats sucks on early toyotas, right side axle is also connected to rear engine mount - which needs replacing at some point - but will need axle to come off first. I'm at that point - and I dont want a mechanic messing with an axle with a chance of messing something up. Im ready to mickey mouse the 'mount's circle rubber bushing' (mine is shot completely) by stuffing some rope thru it/something of that nature, to stop engine from excess play and dampen a little ! If you can suggest a material that might work without judging that'd be sick . Sienna 98 220k.
@8057joe Tire wear noise. Try rotating the front tires to the back and see if the noise follows.
You're welcome Luke!
@happy543210 You'll notice that many buicks use CV axles, but the plastic boots on them never fail. They also have timing chains. The weakness on a Buick? An intake manifold gasket that dissolves in antifreeze! And rod bearings that self destruct in the presence of antifreeze. I believe it was the White Truck Company that built trucks SO WELL that they went out of business because of no repeat business.
as a kid i bought an olds fwd toranado that would click when turning corners . being a broke teen i pulled both axels cleaned them up replaced the boots and switched left for right , now it only clicked in reverse .drove it for years , no problem . ha
Can't tell you enough how many times your videos have helped me. Thanks for being such a good teacher, I'm going to put watched all Briansmobile1 videos on my resume :D
Not sure. I often do see axles fail between 75K miles and 130K miles. 100K would seem to be right around the mean failure time.
@YBR916 Boy I'd have to drive it to listen for a location. It'ts either the CV, the transaxle, or the wheel bearings from the description. I'd get some one near you with a trained ear to drive it/ look at it. I would drive it and then put the front end up in the air and rotate/ listen with the wheel on an then off.
Brian, I have a 97 blazer and the front passenger side wheel is making a clunking sound with wheel speed. As a knee jerk reaction I replaced the wheel bearing, it didn't change. I threw the spare tire on and it didn't change either. The noise if really only noticeable at low speeds and you can feel the clunk too. I jacked the car up and slowly spun the wheel..
Thank you Brian, this video is extremely helpful. I'm noticing a click when I turn right so its time to get the left cv axle replaced. I might as well get both done if its not too expensive, pushing on 150k miles.
You mentioned when turning that power transfers to the side with the weight how ever all stock differentials on any application put power to the dude with the least resistance. And I've also heard then called trans axels other then that watching this made Mr a lil more confident with what I'm doing. Thanks
Side not dude.
Your video had great information Brian, I've watched quite a few of your videos and they are all a great help. I hope you don't take offense with my next comment, though. You mentioned countries where we dropped the atomic bomb. We dropped two Abombs, One on Hiroshima and one on Nagasaki, both of which are part of japan. We helped rebuild Germany, Japan and other countries affected by the war. We've never dropped another A bomb on anyone besides Japan. If I've offended you, I apologize..
@YBR916 If it does it when you give it gas it could be an inner joint failure (less common). If this is the case it should be quiet when you coast straight and are off the gas.
I had my 2000 Focus making the clanking noise when it was turning for about a month. I had both my brothers who have worked on vehicles look at it and neither could figure out what it was.
Today, I was driving it and as I turning and putting gas into it all the sudden the car was not accelerating and the clanking noise kept getting more increased as i put more gas into it.
I realize now that this is exactly what it is. Also my parking system no longer keeps the car in park.
First time we tried to take it and jack it up to see what's going wrong and it does not make any noise when jacked up while turning. On the ground it does. Thought it may have something to do with struts but now that the vehicle no longer moves I'm convinced it is the CV axle.
Strange that 2 guys who have worked on vehicles couldn't immediately tell you what it was. My wife has never worked on a car and knows what that sound means. Maybe it's an experience thing. If you've never run into that problem, you just don't know I guess. This is a fairly common one though.
Shoot! I love to go on ski trips but I hate spending money on car repairs! ;) Thanks Brian, you rock!!!!
Brian, You sound just like my nephew. Then i saw the Minnesota license plates from under the car. I recently squired a 2005 Cadillac Deville hearse. It makes a clunking sound when it shifts, and also when I release the brake
I found a bad CV in my car tonight while doing some bearings. This video confirmed and explained exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks. I just wish it was a cheaper part. hah
Often times tire damage will manifest like that. I'm at a real handicap not being able to hear/drive it first hand. The neighborhood of causes looks like this- differential prob, inner tie rod, tire damage, wheel bearing failure.
your video helped a bunch man. i hv a 2009 ford focus 2.0. and straight up this video helped me diagnosed her problem ! from indonesia with love !
Thanks.. 56 yrs old and this will be my first front wheel drive repair lol .. oh boy
Depends what you've had to eat and if you've been constipated thus causing severe back pressure.
How about hearing the "flat tire" sound and feeling the "banging" on the floorboards when driving straight?
Is the car a manual transmission, or an automatic? This can make a huge difference! If a manual transmission is in gear, and something has jammed the CV axle (separated joint, for instance), then the engine will not be able to start. If it's an automatic, so long as it's in Park or Neutral, then the engine output is mechanically separated from the CV axles, so it would be able to spin.
I gave ya the history, the anatomy,how to diagnose, what more could you ask for! what an amazing video this has turned out to be! Hahahaha! Great vid dude!
In the States the axles are $50- $110 each. So it's easy to just replace them.
@brakedd It definitely can. I've seen that before.
When you mention adding grease on the end of the axle to hold the clip, what type of grease would you recommend? Also, do you need to drain the transmission fluid first before taking out the axles? Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos, they have helped a lot.
I usually do not drain it. It will spill out the perfect amount for doing the job and nothing more. Catch it- measure it- replace it.
Some Other Excellent Videos on Brian's Channel on Replacing CV Axles (just Search for these titles above):
How to Replace the CV Axle on your Honda
How to do a CV Axle on a BMW X5 SUV
How to Remove a Stubborn Cotter Pin Like a Boss!
Slide Hammer CV Axle Tool
Stuborn CV axle tool for 1998 Mazda Millenia Left Axle
Thanks again for the Great videos Brian!!
A Celica! Awesome! I have one of these and I'll be swapping out both CV axles in a couple of weeks, so this was really interesting and helpful to see. Thanks a lot, Brian!
@9b8 (Cont.) Harley Davidson, who was such a company that rejected Deming's techniques, later adopted them after visiting a Honda plant and seeing how it impacted and improved their processes. Six Sigma, a process, product and service quality management methodology, also have great influence from Deming. Big companies such as Motorolla (who developed Six Sigma), GE, Honeywell, Intel, Boeing, 3M, Amazon, IBM and orgs like NASA all employ the quantitative quality management techniques.
Great video ! I have a 94 escort and a clicking or grinding noise has been happening for about 7 years now. It has really got bad in the past month. As you said 'turning to the left makes the noise on the right'. Ford dealer ship here wants 860 dollars to replace it labor and parts. I don't like the Villa Rica GA Ford dealership anymore. Found out that were not tightening the oil filer and causing oil to drip onto my Taurus starter shorting it out 4 times. Even now there is still oil on the under carriage. They are crooks. Anyhow, thanks so much for this video and also watched another one on how to remove and replace the cv joint assembly. Have a neighbor who has the tools for me to do this. It will take me longer to do the repair than you, I am so maticulus about repairing my old escort. It has 240,000 miles on it and this is really the first major work besides the timing change. Again thanks so much. Reckon I will not do it this week or next week either. Georgia to have some of its coldest weather for the next ten days. Today is 60 degrees :-)
I got both replaced on my 2000 Nissan Altima. New parts, forgot what brand, my Shop uses quality parts. I paid $400. out da Door. includes parts, labor and Taxes. That was 2 years ago. Parts are still going strong.
You're welcome!- great to hear it
@PacificHustler Most likely some radical brake component or tire failure issue. Outside of that could be a wheel bearing.
Good video but if the c/v joint is that bad, surely you would replace the old hardened output seal while you have the chance to get at it - easy to do and costs about $5.Kudos for explaining c/v, but you could also mention that is not the same as constant torque, which suffers as a result and is why most front drive cars have torque steer to some degree.Also a considerable amount of transaxle fluid will drip slowly out of the axle opening, so be sure and recheck auto- trans fluid level when done.