Thank you for the excellent videos, with clear demonstrations. ... My '10 Town & Country had no reverse at 90,000 miles. (I had bought it a year ago at 66,000 with an occasional shuddering in reverse.) I just finished replacing the low compounder drum (updated). The inside end of the drum itself looked like it had been gnawed on, down to where the snap ring sits. The pieces were down in the pan. (The seal lands were only slightly worn, but blown piston and wiped out clutches.) Forward shifting was really good, so I only replaced the drum and filter. Reverse is as smooth as forward now.
This is exactly what happened to mine, I'm rebuilding it now and the lower drum had all the teeth broken off back to the snap ring as you describe. had the first hard shifting about 80-85K by 100K the code lite came on often and after 110k stayed on most of the time. after 100k or so it would not reverse with the gas pedal or up hill. It would softly reverse on flat if I just let it sit and slowly build otherwise would just shudder. Like yours, it would still work fine in forward. I actually towed another car five hours to the restorer last October knowing I had no reverse but I still got nearly 20 mpg towing a trailer with a car.... utterly crazy...
We have a 2010 tc with the 4.0 and 91k miles. Just lost reverse and it had been shuddering in reverse too. That's crazy that it's so common! I am going to get a rebuilt compounder from eBay and swap it out in the car, hoping for the same results as you!
I have the same issue, but I'm hesitant to repair it because the inside end of the drum was all torned down, and it jagged a bit the inside of the transmission body where it was sitting. Did you had some jagging too? And if so did you tried to even it out. Thanks
Wow thank you for this video. I worked at a Chrysler dealership for 10 years and have never seen the lock up stalling problem. I work at a small repair shop now and we have a 13 T&C that has that problem. I replaced the converter, oil pump and solenoid pack because according to service info, the TCC solenoid is in the solenoid pack. After having the transmission out twice Im really starting to pull my hair out over this. I will definitely be changing that solenoid out now. As for the sealing ring wearing out the land, I rebuilt one years ago never noticed it, and it came back a week later with the seal completely blown off the hub. Even our main transmission guy had never noticed this. This was before they started including the updated hub and seal in the rebuild kits. It wears it so perfectly that it looks like the hub was machined like that. So if the groove where the seals rides is wider than the seal, its been wearing out. Luckily this is part of the underdrive compounder so the trans can stay in the vehicle to repair.
Thank you for sharing your experience with this transmission. My 62te with 160k miles recently had difficulty shifting up from 1st or 2nd and shifts hard when backing out of my driveway. Your videos are very informative and fun to watch.
I have a 2015 Chrysler Town & Country (appx 79,000 miles) and I've stumbled upon your video in a round about way. This last year I started having trouble with it stalling at stop signs and when having to stop on steep hills. It also seemed to slip gears at times and many of the other things you describe. It lurches sometimes when reversing or starting to drive, but has never been unable to reverse. Sometimes it would seem to get stuck in a lower gear, but would correct itself if I just pulled over and restarted the vehicle. Earlier this year the check engine light came on with a P0128 code, but it was off again by the time that I took it to the dodge/chrysler dealer. I told them all the issues it had been having. They kept it for 5 days and said it gave them no problems (suspicious) and they couldn't find anything. The P0128 code has come on again a few other times, but always goes off before I can get it checked. Today the check engine light came on again, but this time it's the P0128 and P083B code. Would you suspect the solenoid or is it a bigger problem? I've lost all confidence in the dealer here and would like to educate myself before trying out someone else. Thanks for your video - it has been the most informative thing I've found since starting to research when I first began to notice issues. I wish I'd found it earlier.
Excellent video! I owned a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 41TE and found it to be fairly robust. I did regular pan drops and ATF+4 replacement. I probably did this more than was necessary. The only issue I had was with the torque converter which was replaced at around 270000 km. I am now looking at a 2013 T&C Limited with 148000 kms on the odometer. I have done a bit of reading about the 62TE. On my first test drive, I noted that there was a harsh engagement from P into D on cold start. I cycled it a few times and after about the third cycle, it engaged smoothly. I had read that it might do this if the engine is cool and as such the rpms are up a bit. As it's a sealed transmission, I couldn't check the level and I though maybe it was low on fluid and needed to pressurize the valve body circuit for the engagement of the gear. Pure speculation of course as I'm not knowledgeable about automatic transmissions. My question to you - if you don't mind helping me, is...is this an indication of an impending transmission failure? Other than the initial harsh engagement, the van drives and shifts beautifully. I'd greatly appreciate any advice. I really like this van, but I've read countless reviews, articles and it seems these transmission are almost doomed to failure. I don't really know what percentage of these vans have the issues you address in your video. Thank you very much in advance!
Well, they do have problems, i have 3 of them here now. Biggest problem is the converter comes apart and cloggs the filter. I see this happening as low as 38,000 miles. The hard engagement could be because the engine is ideling high when cold, take note of what the idle is cold and hot
@@GaryFerraro Thanks very much! I found a hack for checking the level of the fluid using the oil dipstick, marker and the level/temp spec sheet. 35mm - 50mm depending on engine temp, I guess. I'll warm the van up when I go for my second test drive and check the fluid. I will definitely note the idle at cold and hot temps. I have an appointment with the local Dodge dealer on Friday. They'll also check the fluid level and asses the condition as best they can by looking at it and feeling it. I'll pay a little extra to have them drop the pan. I assume any material from the converter would be evident in the pan? They are suggesting a TCM flash, explaining the spec volume percentages for the solenoids. They say they're pretty sure that the flash would cure the bump into drive. Again, thanks for the guidance. I have the utmost respect for skilled people such as yourself. It's the skilled and intelligent diagnostic abilities and thoughtful creativity, as opposed to those who throw parts at a vehicle, that impresses me. My hat is off to you, sir.
@@acbent11 There is a PCM update, this car has no TCM, it's for hard 2-3 upshift and a harsh 1-2 upshift when you back off throttle. check the engine rpm when you feel the clunk and compare when you don't
Gary Ferraro my uncle had a plugged filter little over 120000km. His was a 2017. Plugged up bad enough that he could barely get going. Dumped the pan and changed fluid and filter and away he went. Still driving 8 months later. Wonder how long the torque converter will hold up.
I only had 41te's yet, not a single daily driver that had a different trans inside. (beside my Ram Van) But it surprises me that the Ultradrive still isnt 100%, even as a low end Mopar guy i am a bit dissapointed....lots of them on the road. By the way, watching you doing your job, i dont think anybody else has such a clear and perfect knowledge over so many transmissions....too bad i live on a different continent and cant use your service, anyway, big respect!!
@@GaryFerraro Not really 😅 Ok from 91 - 2007 the minivans were produced here for the EU market (VM Diesel manuals, autos + all other models common on the US market), but i never wanted anything else, got a few first gen's, NS bodies etc
Dude, what he is sharing is so useful and clear, I almost got rid of my vehicle. Thus i decided to not sell it im fixing the problems it currently has. I wonder if he knows Landrover Ranger Rover HSE motor and transmission and air suspension problem fixes years (but not specific) 2003-2010??? Thanks.
Gary, got the P0740 with no accompanying codes. Sounds like these transmissions are well sensored to pick up small differences in RPMs. Thinking of 1) checking fluid level, 2) check pan for clutch material 3) replace torque converter. Seems to be a common problem. Seems like people had mixed reviews about Lock up solenoid replacements. Thanks for your videos.
Very common problem, i traced this back to a converter problem, can't hurt to change the solenoid either, another common issue is when the solenoid goes bad it causes stalling . The lock up solenoid is the single solenoid
Gary, thanks. Going to give the TC replacement a shot assuming fluid level is okay. Also it has never stalled, so I suppose that’s another way to rule out solenoid as the culprit. Cheers!
Hello, are there any years of the Dodge Caravan (from 2011 restyle forwards) where the transmission problems were fixed? Any years you would recommend? I was thinking of buying a uses Caravan.
I wish the Dodge dealer had a good and honest mechanic as you...now I'm a slave paying a 2013 Grand Caravan with that problem. We needed a mini van to carry my wife's electric wheel chairr
I have a 2012 chrysler 200s daily driver with the 3.6 engine and the 62TE. 6 speed automatic trans. I have 204,000 miles. No rebuild. No problems at all.
Thankyou for all your's videos I a 2007 Chrysler pacifica 4.0L AWD the valve body looks the same bot my it's staling and IT only goes like 35mph I think IT's in limb mode. Some one already replace the valve body w/ the New solenoid pack
Hey garry. I wanna lay you down this question. Hope you can help me. I have rebuild a 62 te but it came back with the problem that the car goes slipping in the six en the temperature warning of transmission goes on. The codes read p0740 and p0218. The converter was replaced by the rebuild. I have tear it down again and the one thing I have seen is that the converter bushing in the oil pump case have spin a round . And the converter wasn't easy to get out. There is some Blue marks also on the converter . So I can see it's getting to hot . Al the plates stil looking fine. The reason that I have rebuild the first time is that the transmission didn't do anything and everything was broke inside . It looks like to me that the tcc is not working properly. But i dont realy know for sure. I have checked everything i think al least. So before i put on a new converter plus the oilpump . I hope you can share you knowledge by this 🙏
And to prevent hydraulic leaks between the underdrive,overdrive and reverse clutch need to install solid ptfe stator support seals PTFE seals are better than steel seals
I overhaul these transmissions all the time at the dealership...That first drum you held part of the compounder and it is now so inexpensive that we replacing the complete compounder assebly during an overhaul.
@JTAutomotive My 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan has 24,000miles on it (yes i know low miles ) And it had the underdrive Compounder, axles seals, fluid , filter , torque converter (it still has extended warranty, but getting the dealer to agree to anything is hard ) (there is still a dead spot in the transmission when going up hills & clunk reverse) I posted my issues on this website (i was wondering if you could take a moment to look at it and tell me what you think ) (my complaint is #2 with the pictures 2012 - Stone White ) www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Grand_Caravan/2012/transmission/shifting_loud_roughly.shtml cdn.carcomplaints.com/complaints/images/7df3a013-8092-11e6-815e-11c196ac9a02r.jpg
@@lightningsmokerXx Hey my friend, not sure what kind of dealer repairing your van. You describing a problem that occurs mostly under load..When there is no check engine light to help with diagnosis, then manual diagnosis come into play..They have to make sure your issue not secondary ignition, such as an intermittent misfire from a coil or something..Ive seen techs (including) me getting tricked by this. But if you certain the issue is transmission related, a check engine light is much needed to get the tech in the right area..Mann, Im sorry you going thru all this, I was reading your posts and you seem very frustrated..I guess once Ive replaced all those parts that have been replaced Ive always had no more issues with those trans thats why Im not sure what to recommend after all that has been done....Can you sub my channel and we can discuss this on any of those 62TE trans video I have up, thanks..lol..not sure if Gary fund of this discussion on his post..lol
Thanks Gary for your videos. I have a 2008 Chrysler Town and country with 62TE transmission. For a long trip I had a big leakage occurs and I had to replace the pump seals. Now there is no leak but a slip at 2-3rd gear which imposes to me to stop restart the engine. I figured out when I wait about 1 hour engine working before driving this problem doesn't occur. In addition a slippage problem occur at high speed 6th gear and at big slopes the engine goes to a very high regime. What parts should I replace in the transmission?
@@GaryFerraro I agree but here in Europe it cost alot for American cars (the car's price!). I'm trying to do it myself with the help of your videos, the transmission is already removed. The errors are P0732,P0735 P0790 and P0792, could you please suggest which part I should focus on first?
Excellent video, thanks for sharing... I have a 62 te, I changed the torque converter and oil pump and now it only moves in reverse when putting drive, it jerks and doesn't move and I have the codes p0871 and p0585, what could it be? thank you so much
I have a 2009 3.8 liter grand caravan. now having what is like a rumbling or quick pulsing sound just on start of moving let up gas and back down easing into speed feels fine. was rebuilt about 110,000 ago
@@GaryFerraro just low rubling when starting to move. when in 2nd or higher no noise. no problem in reverse. i am wondering maybe bearing . does not sound like typical CV joint pinging. I know struts now making noise of wearing out.
Hi Gary I have a 2011 Grand Caravan with 135k kms. It intermittently, jerks when I move the shifter from "P" to "R" and "R" to "D". I feel it more when the car warms up a bit. The vehicle drives smooth and has no codes. Just a few time I noticed a little jerk downshifting when I apply brake
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your response. I checked with my basic scanner which did not show me anything. I am out of town for 2 weeks, will arrange an advance tool and send you the code if any. I could be wrong, but my suspicion is on the solenoid pack because mechanical problems are usually consistent while my issue is not.
@@shariqimtiaz You could have worn sealing rings on the low clutch housing causing a pressure loss for the Direct Clutch. 2011 year, may have the early style drum with rotational rings and the ring lands get worn out
My 2010 Town and country 4.0 compounder failed just like your rare case, it broke at the snap ring. I've read of a few doing this! Btw the compounder can be replaced in the car... It sucked but I did it.
Been having a lot of troubles dealing with dealer and warranty on van. Got a reman transmission. And last week it dropped going down hill and was stuck in gear. Turned off and cleaned carped and then started and was shifting okay I guess had it towed to replaced transmission speed sensors. Code came up p0791 they replaced it and sent me on way. Today. Just did same thing again this time was stuck in gear for good. Would go over 40. And wasn’t shifting down either. Brought back and said they looking into wiring or electrical. ??? Any thought
I have a 2010 T&C with 207000 miles. Out side of some quirky shift issues and occasional minor slam, I sometimes experience a shift with no response, a quick shift into reverse and back to drive resolves it and I go on my way. Any comments and/or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
@@GaryFerraro I did what you suggested. No codes displayed but fluid seemed dark in color. Took it to my mechanic and fluid was over filled and probably needed changing, internal filter was plugged. After R and R and fluid filled, trans is working normal now. thanks again.
Your welcome, for some reason I couldn't reply on your last post, but sounds like the TCC solenoid is clogged if the engine is stalling coming to a stop
@@GaryFerraro Thanks very much for the reply. One more to bother you with if you dont mind. I have almost always had a harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shift (Journey and other forums are loaded with these as well) and when it went to the dealer when still on warranty they said this is normal. I doubted this then and still do. Any thoughts - thanks in advance. Like everyone else, I wish I was close to your shop. Regards
@@chumleye1112 If you have or have access to a scan tool, first thing i would do is whats called a "quick learn" can only be performed with a scan tool( snap-on, autel scan tools like this, don't need dealer for this), this will reset the C.V.I values and may calm down the shifting. Any codes present engine or trans?
Dear Mr Ferraro, i just finish rebuilding my zf 5hp24a (helped alot your videos) and the car dosen't moving forward, very stong and good reverse! When i shift from P to D i have just a 2 inch move from the car, like she want to go and then stops, without touching the throttle! Like it loosing pressure,i have checked maybe 10 time the skinny o ring and grease it to be sure it ok before installing the transmission. I have check in the dash if it shows all the selected speeds, it ok until i accelerate and then all the speeds are the same color and dont change. When i accelerate and the car dont moves and slips i get only one dtc P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio, i looked on the internet and the code it genaral alot of problemes can relate. Please, please, please help me before i take the transmission down again and check the A clutch!! Best reagards.
@@GaryFerraro well it's weird, it was. Then the TCC shift was delayed, could feel a little thud while slowing down, but now it's perfect. Wonder if some debris found its way in or sealant broke off, but I'm pretty lean with that stuff. I got a new solenoid coming in regardless, was cheap 😁 maybe it was running the learn function since battery was unhooked for 2 days? No codes or anything showed up.
I have a 2017 Grand Caravan SXT with 90k that has a transmission issue. Long story short, after 2nd gear it goes into limp mode. After cycling it twice I got it into auto stick mode and got it to go forward with no issue going down a straight road and then it disengages and goes back to limp mode. It'll go into reverse slightly sluggish and neutral fine. When putting it into drive it'll be delayed but will go into gear. Ran codes and calls for mainly TCM and pressure switch faults. Trying to figure out where TCM is located so I can dismount it and get it ready for replacement with new one at dealership. Help and feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I just bought a '14 T&C. Second day in, getting CEL code P0868. I've tried my best to assure the fluid level is correct (32mm @ 150°F), and reset the MIL. My plan was to test drive to see if the code came back or not but at the same time i am afraid to do so (not knowing much about transmissions) out of fear that i may cause more damage by doing so. Should i drive it around a bit more, or just take it to a transmission shop? In your experience what is a P0868 that doesn't seem to have any major drive-ability issues? I've never really owned a Chrysler/Dodge before but heard they're pretty notorious for transmission issues! Namely, since buying it, i did think it "clunked" into drive pretty "hard", sometimes not. Same with reverse, sometimes it seems to be a pretty hard "clunk", sometimes not. The shifting seemed "okay" on driving it, but then again i drive like 'Grandpa' too! Also can't help but wonder if this is coincidence; or if it was a shady seller that knew about something like this and just reset the codes and sold it to me with an issue, without telling me. They did do a fluid flush and or change; and when i reached out today to specifically ask if the filter had been replaced they said it had! I can say the fluid looks brand new! I ended up making some adjustments of putting some in and taking some out at various times trying to make sure it was a perfect 32mm @ 150°F...
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the prompt response! I was afraid of something like that. Even worse that there's not way for me to know whether it's happenstance or I had a shady seller :( I hope I can drag it out a while longer though, especially since it doesn't seem to have drive-ability issues (yet)!
Gary, I changed a rear rear abs faulty ABS sensor wire. As I was excited that lights went out. Went for a short 10 minute drive. Then the transmission with not shift out of park. I tried the TCM reset methods. I'm hoping not a tragedy here. Please help if you can. 2008 Grand Caravan SXT 3.8
Bonjour j' ai les p1790 p0792 p0734 p0733 p0736 biensur elle se met en securité Je n'ai plus de marche arriere juste le ralenti , defaut effacer ou pas . Je trouvais avant que la 4ème retrogradait brutalement Et en vitesse de croisiere je pouvais avoir des tremblement Merci
Translation, These codes are gear ratio and speed error codes, check your fluid level, if good you have an internal problem with the trans, computer sees it slipping
Thanks for the video. I am currently not having any issues with the car, but inside the transmission filter were some teeth, I assume it is a problem waiting to happen.
Hi Gary I got my 2014 caravan used with 100,000mi and it sometimes shifts rough into reverse and mostly at low speeds in drive and I have put 20,000mi on it and the problems hasn't gotten worse. The fluid is clean. Any suggestions? Great video 👍
The Low drum is on in reverse and drive(but comes off around 5MPH) the only thing i can suggest at this point is to try a Quick learn(need a scan tool) to see if anything changes
Hi Gary. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a 12 grand caravan, 190k, never had any transmission troubles. I have what I thought was a front brake grinding. I have replaced the rotors and pads and front hub bearings and passenger complete axle shaft. I've looked more closely at the brakes and wheels to look for anything rubbing (like a split rotor or wheel, excessive caliper pin wear) I cannot find the noise and am starting to consider its in the differential. This noise only occurs when braking at speeds below 20mph. Sometimes its every time you brake and other times, you don't hear it at all. Sometimes the traction light come on. I haven't checked the codes for it though. Do you think maybe the differential bearings are worn?
@@GaryFerraro Its definitely coming from the front. And today I did some more searching. Put it in gear with passenger wheel on the ground, left side off the ground and did lots of braking. It is just dumbfounding. The sound is definitely from the wheel hub or brake but I have no clue why. I was starting to think its something inside the caliper because they are 3 years old now but i don't see how a caliper could grind and squeal. Anyway thanks for helping me rule out the diff. And thanks to your videos, I feel good about our trans lasting a few more years . I probably should get the fluid and filter changed
Hi Gary, You are a treasure of knowledge. I learned from your videos about 62te, and I disassembled my transmission because it had no reverse. It has a low drum which is missing teeth for retainer ring. All the aluminum teeth have been ground to powder. It had codes P0734, P0736, and P0792. Is it safe to replace low drum, filter, and fluid? Or I need to change more parts? Please guide me how to carry out the relearn strategy as I am a DIY without access to speciality scanner tool for dodge transmission. I will very appreciate any words of wisdom and experience from you. Rana.
I have a 2011 Dodge grand caravan crew with 132,000 miles on it. I replaced the transmission cooler lines, the filter, & enough fluid to change the filter. Fram filter & Mopar ATF+4 fluid. I'm getting a slow 1st gear engagement when it is cold out. Just curious what you would recommend. I've had the van about 1.5 years.
@@GaryFerraro reverse is fine, it acts like it's not in first gear all the way. When you push on the gas there is a slight clunk as it engages into first. I don't think it was an issue before. (It was warm out)
@@GaryFerraro when I put it in reverse and let it sit, the rpms climb and it does slip out of gear....the noise is almost like what an aging AC clutch makes....
Hey Gary. Great video, thanks!! Quick question, I have a 2018 Dodge GC that is shuddering to a stop very frequently, like when I brake, it will be like bang, bang bang. The brakes and rotors are all new; I'm almost positive it is the TCC. It will also sometimes raise the RPMs on its own without my foot on the pedal, and even upshift like that. Could this be a bad TCC solenoid as well? (no stalling out though). Or something more ominous. Thanks!! Nelson
The converters have problems on this unit but a 740 code can be a number of things. 740 code means the converter can no longer fully lock-up. Could be converter itself, the TCC solenoid, valvebody, even a worn pump bushing. Very hard to diagnose, usually an overhaul fixes the problem but these converter have problems , most jobs we get in are due to converter failure
I guess there wouldn't be codes for the TCC failure, as it's functioning electronically. Any PIDs that could be viewed, that may help in diagnosing? If there's access to the TCC control wire, seeing the current waveform would be able to determine function or failure, even if mechanical.
There is the P0740 code which means the converter can no longer fully lock, but when the solenoid gets mechanically clogged, you are correct, no code for that. Always nice to hear from you.
that's exactly the problem I'm having, when warm and I coast to a slow stop it will chug and stall. if I stop abruptly or quicker it doesn't do it. thanks now I know what I need to get, do I have to drain the fluid when removing the side cover?
@@GaryFerraro when it first started doing it, I did change the fluid and filter. Was no more than 500miles ago, maybe a month. When I get the new solenoid I will change the filter and fluid again, she deserves it, the cost of the solenoid and fluid and filter, is definitely a lot less than a new transmission. Thank you for the video and advice, I greatly appreciate it. I plan on doing it this Thursday hopefully.
Gary, thanks for your videos, they're really helpful. I have a 62te in a 2009 Grand Caravan that acts like it's in neutral at all times but in park. Any ideas? It was supposedly rebuilt right before I bought it about 30K miles ago. There's no trouble codes at all and when it happened everything was working great, stopped at a light, when light changed stepped on the gas and suddenly nothing.
Also, who makes the best remanufactured 62TE transmission that you trust the most? (I was thinking of buying a Caravan cheap because it has transmission problems that need to be replaced)
Hello again, Gary! I have a quick question for you if you don't mind. In some documentation I found, it refers to specific "Preliminary" CVI values for the 62TE. Do you know specifically what Chrysler means by "Preliminary"? My L/R clutch volume is very slightly over spec. After I did the relearn, it was well within spec, but after driving a bit it climbed to around 68; 4 points above spec, I believe. I read somewhere that over spec values may be an indication of clutch wear. Maybe it's normal for values to exceed the "Preliminary" values due to the transmission learning driving habits? As mentioned in my previous response, my transmission is working like new, perfect shifting and gear engagement. Not that is has any bearing on the above, but my line pressures, desired and measured are identical.
Thanks for the video Gary! I own a 2010 with a 62TE and now I know it has a TCC solenoid failure for sure because the van will almost stall on abrupt stops. Also something odd going on where the van fails to start, it will crank for a second and then stop, until I shift from park to reverse and back to park... and then it will start. Sometimes it also feels like reverse is too fast even with no acceleration applied. Any ideas? I wish I lived close to your shop it'd be something I'd take there since it seems you're very familiar with them.
I have this transmission in my 2015 Caravan. So far, it's got nearly 300,000 km's and (knock on wood) no issues. I have (twice) had the fluid flushed + filter and gasket replaced. I've had no trouble in REVERSE gear, but I notice the idle seems weak at red lights, but so far no stalling. My only concern (currently) is it seems to be a bit rough and "jolty" when shifting in between gears. Any suggestions??...anybody??
hi i have a pro master van with this transmission if you put it in to park the van will roll away . The cable is good could it be the parking paw and can this be changed with transmission in the van thanks
I have a 1999 Chrysler minivan with a 3.3 V6. Fluid level was topped up, although it sounds like it may have been low at some point. It shifts and works in reverse, but none of the forward gears work. I'm wondering what the most likely problems are. Thanks
Im thinking the car may be in failsafe which is 2nd gear and there is a problem with a gear breaking off a drum. Does the car by chance move in 1st gear? If in failsafe, shut the car off and start it back up again, does the car move in 1st gear? You should have the 41TE 4 speed trans in your car
@@GaryFerraro , I did the "key dance" and no error codes show up on the instrument cluster. After shifting into reverse and then first gear it would move, so both reverse and first are working, although they are grabbing.
@@kellyanderson7115 ok, so if 1st is working then there is a problem with 2nd gear, probably the gear broke off of the hub, so when it goes into failsafe the car will not move because 2nd gear is failsafe
I have a cuestion in dis transsmissio.i have a problem may transmission is hover hot i put neu solenoid i put ls kit an piston kit ay neu cooler de problem is desein son body help
I don't know if you are still active. 2014 dodge journey sxt awd. whining and gear slipping after oil heats up. Have to put in parks and shut off car for it to grab a gear but will slip again quick. I changed just the 1 solenoid and still had the issue. Used a voltage meter to check every solenoid and they all read fine. starts whining even in park. Do i need a new transmission?
HELP HELP HELP PLEASE! my 62te tranny is having issues releasing 2nd and 5th gear...so it feels like im driving in 2nd gear all the time and im reving above 5000 while going 60 mph...i changed the input and output sensor and still the same..im changing the transmission range sensor today but if the problem consists, my mechanic suggested the drum to be replaced...could the drum be the issue? another mechanic said it's probably the valve body and another mechanic said it was internal issues and gave mre a 2100dls quote....who should i go with ?
While thumbing thru my Gears September 2019 I came across an ad for Jasper as on back page in the ad it says to prevent the loss of 3rd and 6th gear by installing a snap ring 27% percent thicker in the case, can you enlighten us?
That is the snap ring that goes around the center support, houses the 2-4 clutch piston, but the clutch is applied in 3rd, stays on for 4th and reapplied in 6th, that snap ring likes to break, i always install a new one but it's not 27% thicker, will have to look into that
Hello Gary I have 2008 grand caravan 3.8 it shuts off when I put it in drive but in reverse works fine . Does the tcc selenoid is the only thing can go bad or it may be the torque converter too? And thank you for all your videos.
probably the TCC solenoid, not the solenoid pack, the TCC solenoid is by itself, that is the most common problem when the car stalls out, I would change that solenoid first
@@GaryFerraro thanks for replaying so fast. This is what happened I took it to the transmission shop and they said that they will rebuild it, and I agree whit 158000 miles it will be like new again. Well they put everything together and still doing the same. And I don't know what happened
Hey Gary I have a 2014 chrysler town and country code P083b came up I replaced the transmission pressure sensor and now It shudder a little sometimes when coming to a stop and I feel a little shudder or ripple affect when it shift between 3 and 4 also a rpm surge before going into 6 . No transmission codes. Any suggestions.
Yes I changed the filter and refilled 5.5 qrts. of atf +4 transmission fluid when I installed the transmission pressure sensor. I have checked it also.
My wife has this transmission in her 2015 dodge journey. She's having the issue where the car is stalling when she comes to a stop. The dealership is saying that she needs a entirely brand new transmission. According to your video it may be that clogged solenoid? Hopefully, because i think that's cheaper
Got one of these in a Journey with AWD. Only real complaint is a light whine on hard acceleration. Any preventative things other than filter/fluid changes?
What I figured. I generally do that more often than "needed" I figure oil and grease is cheaper then replacing an engine or trans.. Then again I'm one of the folks who runs a Powerglide on the street.
Gary, were you trying to say the little black seal of the 2-4 clutch is a common failure, or just the improper re-installation of the part itself? I ask because I have a P0755 code on my 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and the trans solenoid, pressure transducer, variable force solenoid, and trans filter will be changed, however the estimate didn't include a 2-4 seal. Should I be worried? Thank you for your time and effort!
Bonjour après remontage du à un changement de cloche bas, j’ai le dtc P0944 . parcontre je n’est pas réussi à enfoncer le joint entre la crépine et la boîte. Sa peut venir du faite qu’il y’a pas une étanchéité optimale, du coup la pompe ne s’amorce pas.
Hi Gary your videos are amazing, they've helped me rebuilt 3 62tes now. One question i rebuilt one and its got a code P0734 and p0732 4th gear ratio error. It got all new steels and clutches, new pistons, new solenoid pack. The compounder threads were damaged so i got a good used one from a local transmission shop. I didnt take it apart. I talked to the shop that sold us compounder and they said they put a new piston in it as it was leaking and it looked good. The techs were very good and said its most likely a bad 2/4 piston or the spring isnt lined up or possibly that valve body. Do you have any suggestions to look at? I have removed the transmission already but done see anything obvious. I put air right to the 2/4 piston through the orfice hole that you line up to where valve body sits. I feel like i hear air leaking out. Should i hear any air or should it be a thud and then no air coming? Any help is appreciated.
well, the 2-4 piston actually comes on in 3rd on the 62TE. What do you feel when you drive the car? Maybe a problem in the Direct clutch in the compounder, you air checked that?
It feels like it revs high when shifting. On initial drive it felt ok but then after a few mins we got limp mode where it was stuck in 3rd gear. And we had pending 4th gear ratio code. Then we checked fluid level and cleared codes and drove again it went through shifting up to 4th and then went to 3rd gear limp mode. Now we have pending 2nd gear ratio and 4th gear ratio code. Haven’t air tested the compounder. Would you happens to know which ports to air for what? Not sure if there’s a video where you air test a compounder. I’m assuming you would check in all 3 ports of the compounder where those tubes go in?
@@FleetTech97 yes, one port is for the Low clutch, one is for direct clutch and one for lube. I have a 4 part series on rebuilding a 62TE i'm pretty sure i air check in the video
Do you know why the 62te makes a clicking sound about every 10 seconds from the valve body at idle? I have read about people noticing it before but no one knows what it is, some kind of pressure regulation? 2010 town and country 4.0. just replaced my compounder for a broken drum (lost reverse) last week btw, thanks for the tear down videos!!!
with no warning my 13 journey dropped to 3rd? gear on the freeway and redlined, pulled over and wont move at all now. greeted with p0729,734,735,736,841,846, and 868. fluid looked ok and didnt smell burnt. wasnt slipping or shifting weird. Not even sure where to start. Any advice thats not take it to a shop?
Usually with no warning, possible something may have broke or snapped in the trans, the only thing you can do is drop the pan see if anything is in the pan, this may give some direction
Thank you for the effort you put in your demonstrations. I'm waiting on a vehicle with this gearbox and the following happened: Stop at the school and put in park, shutoff engine. Start up and select drive with no response. Not reverse, drive, nothing. Also no mechanical warning or noises. What could this be? To me it sounds like something electrical/electronic. Any advise please?
The side pan, i also remove the bottom pan to see the linkage from the inside. There is a roll pin and an anchor screw, watch teardown video to get familiar with how it comes apart
Having the stall in drive. Acts like a manual if you don’t push in the clutch. Sounds like the solenoid you mentioned. How difficult to replace on a 2009 T&C. Can’t find any videos on it.
Gary Ferraro cool. Do you loose tranny fluid when you take the cover off? Any way to test that solenoid? Van left me stranded at an off-ramp with no codes. If I can get it rolling I can drive as long as I don’t come to a stop.
Hello. I put an Autel 909ms and I was doing a live view while I was driving. No second gear while driving in drive. The transmission jumped from 1 to 3 gear when accelerating and jumped from 3 to 1 gear when decelerating. I can select second gear manually and drives fine. I'm in between the solenoid pack and the little tube of 2-4 that you showed in the video that might have been installed in the opposite way. What do think ?
@GaryFerraro The scanner is working fine. First gear is longer, then shift to 3. And the same thing when decelerating, skipping second... Maybe a solenoid isn't working right
@@elgroso806 I guess possible but had never seen that, , maybe one of the non-removeable check balls came out of place. All engine sensor reading correctly
@@GaryFerraro it seems to be the outer edge of one of the drums. Each piece is broken off. I will do myself with the videos. Just wondering how far i might need to go into it. Total rebuild or not
I have the same transmission in my 09 journey sxt. It shifts perfectly when I first start it but after going around the block it won't shift at all. Any advice?
Any idea if these updated designs were incorporated into later models from the factory? I'm about to tear out my 2013 (130k) to replace pump seal, and am wondering if I should have one of these on hand while I'm in there. Thanks.
2013 Dodge Avenger 3.6, the transmission is making a whirling whining noise. Almost sounds like a power steering pump. Car has 200,000 miles on it. Possible bad bearing in the transmission?
@@halleffect1 Almost sounds like the transfer gears behind the rear cover. If you turn the wheel while driving straight does the noise change? if you turn to the left or right
Hi Gary my 08 grand caravan stx doing the stall every time is doing a complete stop the reverse is working good and the only code show is the brake pedal sensor the miles on the van is about 350000 I still drive the van shift k is just the stall that means is a bad tcc someone told me a bad converter
K is a mopar part # 5169313AA right? When You change that solenoid is easy ? any special recommendations how to do it? Thank you for your help. You know the part number for the dipstick?
@@tomcat375 That's it, just get the side cover off, swap out the solenoid, reseal the cover with silicone. I do not know the number for the dipstick tool. If you haven't while your working on the trans, maybe do a service with a new filter, no pan gasket just silicone on that too
I have a question. My 2008 t and c Chrysler 4.0 l uses the 62te. I have an engine light codes 00792 and p0733. My fluids are maintained car has 192k miles. No funny noises car shifts smooth. Clear the codes out and the light will come on only when I try to downshift manually to 4 3 2 1. It never gets to the first gear. Upshifitjg manually or automatically seems to work fine. Once I try to downshift manually I consistently cause the codes to appear. Any idea what is wrong. Thanks for any direction. GOd Bless.
@@GaryFerraro Sometimes I drive for about 20 miles and no engine light but pending codes were stored. The car drive fine even with a bit of rough driving. But the minute I manually tried to downshift it wouldn't let me.
@@GaryFerraro I have gone ahead and changed the filter and transmission oil as well as thrown in a can of lucas trans fix. No change. When the problems occurred first I noticed the reverse gear takes about 3 seconds to engage from drive to reverse. I took the car on the road for about 50 miles. Engine light came on and the usual codes p0734, P0733 , p0792 came back. Car still shifted like a dream on the highway passing and going about 85 miles and hour. No issues in that. Did not find the fluid to be contaminated it was bright red. Pan had the magnet and it was covered with the usual metal shavings. Above the pan the transmission was clean as a whistle. It took the engine light about 50 miles before it came back on. However my obd ii code reader saw codes immediately as I shifted through the gears in drive starting from 0 mph to 10mph.
Thank you for this very important information. When you removed the solenoid what bit did you use and the size? Torx, Allen, Robertson or etc... Is there anything else I should be aware of when I change this part out? Cheers!
It's a T25 torx to remove the solenoid pack from the valvebody and 7mm to remove the valvebody. The valvebody has to come out and the feed tubes may come out with the body, i drop the pan and remove the filter to get more leverage and to make sure the tubes are installed correctly the range switch may also be in the way, i usually remove that to make it easier(little bit of a pain to remove and install the switch, if you could swing it leave the range switch alone)
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the detailed reply. I was referring to the TCC solenoid which you stated in the video that you did not need to remove the valve body or pack. Please advise.
@@GaryFerraro The panel you refer to in the video - Is it the left wheel well panel or a panel on the transmission to gain access to the valve body & solenoid pack?
Question for ya. Mine if I slow down really fast it will sometimes downshift and rev up. Also if I hold the gas when I'm going and let off the gas before it shifts it will thump into that next gear. But if I hold the gas as it shifts it won't thump.
How many miles on the car? When you release the gas before it shifts, that may be line pressure making it thump, line pressure usually decreases on the shift but lifting off the gas probably not coming down fast enough and with some possible internal wear on the clutch packs may feel a bump
144,000 I changed the fluid and filter a month ago and it's still doing it. I did find a small medal shaving in the pan. Are you saying a small leak in my trans cooler line can also maybe be the problem.
@@Theworldaroundme143 It is very common for the cooler lines to leak, this would loose transmission fluid, if running it low on fluid may cause some internal damage as well.
I have spent countless hours researching my 2014 Caravan transmission issues and this comes closest to helping me, the TCC perfectly describes 1 issue so |'ll get this done but the other is that sometimes it seems to overrev before dropping back, i.e. 3000K then to 1500. Background: at 87000 miles, tranny rebuilt, seemed good, then the stalling issue started, took it back to mechanic, no codes and symptoms intermittent so in a hail mary they replaced the solenoid pack but I don't believe any of the other sensors or the TCC. The other day, started fine, put in gear, nothing. Put in park, then drive, still nothing. Revved a bit in gear and it engaged and has been fine in that regard (for now) Tranny only has like 10,000 mi since the rebuild. Any ideas? thanks oh, they didn't flash the PCM, just relearned
@@GaryFerraro No, no codes, no CEL nothing. I went back to the shop and they checked again for codes and nothing. They also said they replaced the TCC the same time as the solenoid pack. They're suggesting I get a PCM update flash done, which I will do, then I started to wonder if any of the four sensors or the pressure transducer might be the problem. He also mentioned it might be electrical but nowhere have I seen that as a possibility... grrrrr
@@rocooper5686 at this point what is it doing, still stalling and not moving in drive sometimes? i never flashed the pcm unlss a code was present and i found a TSB saying a flash with the latest software will fix the problem, if you have no codes, not so sure that will help (In My opinion)
Hey Gary thanks for the video.may i ask a question? I have a fiat Freemont, an Europe rebadge version of dodge journey which is having the same transmission. my question is about some deep grinding noise which is happening while taking of ( especially at reverse driving). Is this normal? If not where should I start? Thanks in advance.
This is great info, now im almost 100% positive that my TCC on my 2015 chrysler T&C is the culprit of these slowing down hesitation and stalls.. scary stuff. I will DIY this project but do I have to drain the trans fluid for me to replace the TCC? Can i just remove the side cover and have minimal drips or spills if any? I just need to know what to expect and what would be the best way to tackle this fix. Also what do you recommend as far as brand and prices..
You could just remove the side cover, fluid may come out , i don't think a lot will but you may loose some, i only use OE solenoid from the dealer, do you have the special tool to check the fluid level when done?
Gary Ferraro i wish they had an easier way to fill. Like a filler port that when fluid flows out of it then its exactly where is should be.. like an overflow fill port..
Thank you for the excellent videos, with clear demonstrations. ... My '10 Town & Country had no reverse at 90,000 miles. (I had bought it a year ago at 66,000 with an occasional shuddering in reverse.) I just finished replacing the low compounder drum (updated). The inside end of the drum itself looked like it had been gnawed on, down to where the snap ring sits. The pieces were down in the pan. (The seal lands were only slightly worn, but blown piston and wiped out clutches.) Forward shifting was really good, so I only replaced the drum and filter. Reverse is as smooth as forward now.
Great, i'm actually starting to see that now, the low drum blown. Thanks for watching, Please subscribe.
This is exactly what happened to mine, I'm rebuilding it now and the lower drum had all the teeth broken off back to the snap ring as you describe. had the first hard shifting about 80-85K by 100K the code lite came on often and after 110k stayed on most of the time. after 100k or so it would not reverse with the gas pedal or up hill. It would softly reverse on flat if I just let it sit and slowly build otherwise would just shudder. Like yours, it would still work fine in forward. I actually towed another car five hours to the restorer last October knowing I had no reverse but I still got nearly 20 mpg towing a trailer with a car.... utterly crazy...
We have a 2010 tc with the 4.0 and 91k miles. Just lost reverse and it had been shuddering in reverse too. That's crazy that it's so common! I am going to get a rebuilt compounder from eBay and swap it out in the car, hoping for the same results as you!
I have the same issue, but I'm hesitant to repair it because the inside end of the drum was all torned down, and it jagged a bit the inside of the transmission body where it was sitting. Did you had some jagging too? And if so did you tried to even it out. Thanks
6 months so far on my TE62 garage floor rebuild, and it's still going strong. I could not have done it without this video.
Thank you, Good job on fixing it yourself
Thank you Gary. For taking my calls and answering my questions. A true great man
Wow thank you for this video. I worked at a Chrysler dealership for 10 years and have never seen the lock up stalling problem. I work at a small repair shop now and we have a 13 T&C that has that problem. I replaced the converter, oil pump and solenoid pack because according to service info, the TCC solenoid is in the solenoid pack. After having the transmission out twice Im really starting to pull my hair out over this. I will definitely be changing that solenoid out now. As for the sealing ring wearing out the land, I rebuilt one years ago never noticed it, and it came back a week later with the seal completely blown off the hub. Even our main transmission guy had never noticed this. This was before they started including the updated hub and seal in the rebuild kits. It wears it so perfectly that it looks like the hub was machined like that. So if the groove where the seals rides is wider than the seal, its been wearing out. Luckily this is part of the underdrive compounder so the trans can stay in the vehicle to repair.
Thanks for watching, ley me know how it goes
Amazing how much knowledge you have on this transmission. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Thank you for sharing your experience with this transmission. My 62te with 160k miles recently had difficulty shifting up from 1st or 2nd and shifts hard when backing out of my driveway. Your videos are very informative and fun to watch.
You should have the fluid level checked and scanned for codes
I have a 2015 Chrysler Town & Country (appx 79,000 miles) and I've stumbled upon your video in a round about way. This last year I started having trouble with it stalling at stop signs and when having to stop on steep hills. It also seemed to slip gears at times and many of the other things you describe. It lurches sometimes when reversing or starting to drive, but has never been unable to reverse. Sometimes it would seem to get stuck in a lower gear, but would correct itself if I just pulled over and restarted the vehicle. Earlier this year the check engine light came on with a P0128 code, but it was off again by the time that I took it to the dodge/chrysler dealer. I told them all the issues it had been having. They kept it for 5 days and said it gave them no problems (suspicious) and they couldn't find anything. The P0128 code has come on again a few other times, but always goes off before I can get it checked. Today the check engine light came on again, but this time it's the P0128 and P083B code. Would you suspect the solenoid or is it a bigger problem? I've lost all confidence in the dealer here and would like to educate myself before trying out someone else. Thanks for your video - it has been the most informative thing I've found since starting to research when I first began to notice issues. I wish I'd found it earlier.
Excellent video! I owned a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 41TE and found it to be fairly robust. I did regular pan drops and ATF+4 replacement. I probably did this more than was necessary. The only issue I had was with the torque converter which was replaced at around 270000 km. I am now looking at a 2013 T&C Limited with 148000 kms on the odometer. I have done a bit of reading about the 62TE. On my first test drive, I noted that there was a harsh engagement from P into D on cold start. I cycled it a few times and after about the third cycle, it engaged smoothly. I had read that it might do this if the engine is cool and as such the rpms are up a bit. As it's a sealed transmission, I couldn't check the level and I though maybe it was low on fluid and needed to pressurize the valve body circuit for the engagement of the gear. Pure speculation of course as I'm not knowledgeable about automatic transmissions. My question to you - if you don't mind helping me, is...is this an indication of an impending transmission failure? Other than the initial harsh engagement, the van drives and shifts beautifully. I'd greatly appreciate any advice. I really like this van, but I've read countless reviews, articles and it seems these transmission are almost doomed to failure. I don't really know what percentage of these vans have the issues you address in your video. Thank you very much in advance!
Well, they do have problems, i have 3 of them here now. Biggest problem is the converter comes apart and cloggs the filter. I see this happening as low as 38,000 miles. The hard engagement could be because the engine is ideling high when cold, take note of what the idle is cold and hot
@@GaryFerraro Thanks very much! I found a hack for checking the level of the fluid using the oil dipstick, marker and the level/temp spec sheet. 35mm - 50mm depending on engine temp, I guess. I'll warm the van up when I go for my second test drive and check the fluid. I will definitely note the idle at cold and hot temps. I have an appointment with the local Dodge dealer on Friday. They'll also check the fluid level and asses the condition as best they can by looking at it and feeling it. I'll pay a little extra to have them drop the pan. I assume any material from the converter would be evident in the pan? They are suggesting a TCM flash, explaining the spec volume percentages for the solenoids. They say they're pretty sure that the flash would cure the bump into drive. Again, thanks for the guidance. I have the utmost respect for skilled people such as yourself. It's the skilled and intelligent diagnostic abilities and thoughtful creativity, as opposed to those who throw parts at a vehicle, that impresses me. My hat is off to you, sir.
@@acbent11 There is a PCM update, this car has no TCM, it's for hard 2-3 upshift and a harsh 1-2 upshift when you back off throttle. check the engine rpm when you feel the clunk and compare when you don't
@@GaryFerraro Will do. Thanks. I'll report back.
Gary Ferraro my uncle had a plugged filter little over 120000km. His was a 2017. Plugged up bad enough that he could barely get going. Dumped the pan and changed fluid and filter and away he went. Still driving 8 months later. Wonder how long the torque converter will hold up.
I only had 41te's yet, not a single daily driver that had a different trans inside. (beside my Ram Van)
But it surprises me that the Ultradrive still isnt 100%, even as a low end Mopar guy i am a bit dissapointed....lots of them on the road.
By the way, watching you doing your job, i dont think anybody else has such a clear and perfect knowledge over so many transmissions....too bad i live on a different continent and cant use your service, anyway, big respect!!
Thanks for watching, where are you located? Greetings from New York
@@GaryFerraro Styria, Austria (EU)
Got a few Voyagers, a Caravan, Le Baron etc sitting over here 😅
@@Minivan_Man wow, are chrysler products popular there?
@@GaryFerraro Not really 😅 Ok from 91 - 2007 the minivans were produced here for the EU market (VM Diesel manuals, autos + all other models common on the US market), but i never wanted anything else, got a few first gen's, NS bodies etc
@@Minivan_Man Anyone there rebuild transmissions for the chryslers?
Dude, what he is sharing is so useful and clear, I almost got rid of my vehicle. Thus i decided to not sell it im fixing the problems it currently has. I wonder if he knows Landrover Ranger Rover HSE motor and transmission and air suspension problem fixes years (but not specific) 2003-2010??? Thanks.
I know transmissions, not motor or suspension.
Thank you for sharing the videos. I like them because you show us your technique.
Thank you for watching, please subscribe
Gary, got the P0740 with no accompanying codes. Sounds like these transmissions are well sensored to pick up small differences in RPMs. Thinking of 1) checking fluid level, 2) check pan for clutch material 3) replace torque converter. Seems to be a common problem. Seems like people had mixed reviews about Lock up solenoid replacements. Thanks for your videos.
Very common problem, i traced this back to a converter problem, can't hurt to change the solenoid either, another common issue is when the solenoid goes bad it causes stalling . The lock up solenoid is the single solenoid
Gary, thanks. Going to give the TC replacement a shot assuming fluid level is okay. Also it has never stalled, so I suppose that’s another way to rule out solenoid as the culprit. Cheers!
@@Stanku20234 Get a new OE filter in there as well, the converter clutch comes apart and cloggs the filter
@@Stanku20234 9:06
Dave did you figure out if it was the solenoid or the torque converter?
Yes Sir, it does run very well except little bit of revving is required to launch the van in first gear. No whine or suffer is present.
Hello, are there any years of the Dodge Caravan (from 2011 restyle forwards) where the transmission problems were fixed? Any years you would recommend? I was thinking of buying a uses Caravan.
Probably around 2016, they used the updated low drum
I wish the Dodge dealer had a good and honest mechanic as you...now I'm a slave paying a 2013 Grand Caravan with that problem. We needed a mini van to carry my wife's electric wheel chairr
What do you have no reverse?
@@GaryFerraro oh hi! I do have reverse but sometimes,the GC jerks when reducing to stop. And sometimes when it shifts,it does it harshly.
@@morganix007 Any check engine light on, do you know if any codes are present?
I have the same problem sometimes. Did you get it fixed and what was the problem?
I forgot to thank you for your very quick reply.
did this happen suddenly
I have a 2012 chrysler 200s daily driver with the 3.6 engine and the 62TE. 6 speed automatic trans. I have 204,000 miles. No rebuild. No problems at all.
Thats Great, i do some of these with 70K
Perfect, Gary! Thank you very much for your advise.
What can I do with relearn procedure after I install it in the van? Please advise.
Thanks for great video
Just curious I have 07 Chrysler Pacifica Limp mode and has p076a
Need pull transmission or just sensor?
Thanks again
Thankyou for all your's videos
I a 2007 Chrysler pacifica
4.0L AWD the valve body looks the same bot my it's staling and IT only goes like 35mph
I think IT's in limb mode.
Some one already replace the valve body w/ the New solenoid pack
Are there any codes present for the transmission?
Check alt
Thanks Gary. Great information! Take care.
Hey garry.
I wanna lay you down this question.
Hope you can help me.
I have rebuild a 62 te but it came back with the problem that the car goes slipping in the six en the temperature warning of transmission goes on.
The codes read p0740 and p0218.
The converter was replaced by the rebuild.
I have tear it down again and the one thing I have seen is that the converter bushing in the oil pump case have spin a round .
And the converter wasn't easy to get out.
There is some Blue marks also on the converter .
So I can see it's getting to hot .
Al the plates stil looking fine.
The reason that I have rebuild the first time is that the transmission didn't do anything and everything was broke inside .
It looks like to me that the tcc is not working properly.
But i dont realy know for sure.
I have checked everything i think al least.
So before i put on a new converter plus the oilpump .
I hope you can share you knowledge by this 🙏
And to prevent hydraulic leaks between the underdrive,overdrive and reverse clutch need to install solid ptfe stator support seals PTFE seals are better than steel seals
can you give me a link so i can check those out
I overhaul these transmissions all the time at the dealership...That first drum you held part of the compounder and it is now so inexpensive that we replacing the complete compounder assebly during an overhaul.
@JTAutomotive
My 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan has 24,000miles on it (yes i know low miles )
And it had the underdrive Compounder, axles seals, fluid , filter , torque converter
(it still has extended warranty, but getting the dealer to agree to anything is hard )
(there is still a dead spot in the transmission when going up hills & clunk reverse)
I posted my issues on this website (i was wondering if you could take a moment to look at it and tell me what you think )
(my complaint is #2 with the pictures 2012 - Stone White )
www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Grand_Caravan/2012/transmission/shifting_loud_roughly.shtml
cdn.carcomplaints.com/complaints/images/7df3a013-8092-11e6-815e-11c196ac9a02r.jpg
@@lightningsmokerXx Hey my friend, not sure what kind of dealer repairing your van. You describing a problem that occurs mostly under load..When there is no check engine light to help with diagnosis, then manual diagnosis come into play..They have to make sure your issue not secondary ignition, such as an intermittent misfire from a coil or something..Ive seen techs (including) me getting tricked by this. But if you certain the issue is transmission related, a check engine light is much needed to get the tech in the right area..Mann, Im sorry you going thru all this, I was reading your posts and you seem very frustrated..I guess once Ive replaced all those parts that have been replaced Ive always had no more issues with those trans thats why Im not sure what to recommend after all that has been done....Can you sub my channel and we can discuss this on any of those 62TE trans video I have up, thanks..lol..not sure if Gary fund of this discussion on his post..lol
@@OnlineMechanicTips Thanks for spending the time to read & reply to me.
Thanks Gary for your videos. I have a 2008 Chrysler Town and country with 62TE transmission. For a long trip I had a big leakage occurs and I had to replace the pump seals. Now there is no leak but a slip at 2-3rd gear which imposes to me to stop restart the engine. I figured out when I wait about 1 hour engine working before driving this problem doesn't occur. In addition a slippage problem occur at high speed 6th gear and at big slopes the engine goes to a very high regime. What parts should I replace in the transmission?
with the slipping i would say this needs an overhaul
@@GaryFerraro I agree but here in Europe it cost alot for American cars (the car's price!). I'm trying to do it myself with the help of your videos, the transmission is already removed. The errors are P0732,P0735 P0790 and P0792, could you please suggest which part I should focus on first?
Excellent video, thanks for sharing... I have a 62 te, I changed the torque converter and oil pump and now it only moves in reverse when putting drive, it jerks and doesn't move and I have the codes p0871 and p0585, what could it be? thank you so much
you may have tore a sealing ring when installing the pump
I have a 2009 3.8 liter grand caravan. now having what is like a rumbling or quick pulsing sound just on start of moving let up gas and back down easing into speed feels fine. was rebuilt about 110,000 ago
anything in reverse? does the noise change with engine pitch?
@@GaryFerraro just low rubling when starting to move. when in 2nd or higher no noise. no problem in reverse. i am wondering maybe bearing . does not sound like typical CV joint pinging. I know struts now making noise of wearing out.
@@brunorios7223 Any chance you can run the car on a lift to confirm possible trans noise
Amazing!! Seems like I found my issue hopefully. 08 D GC 3.8 150K hand me down for the 16yo to drive- until she decides what she likes.
What issue are you having
Hi Gary
I have a 2011 Grand Caravan with 135k kms. It intermittently, jerks when I move the shifter from "P" to "R" and "R" to "D". I feel it more when the car warms up a bit. The vehicle drives smooth and has no codes. Just a few time I noticed a little jerk downshifting when I apply brake
do you know anyone with a scan tool to see if there are any codes present
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your response. I checked with my basic scanner which did not show me anything. I am out of town for 2 weeks, will arrange an advance tool and send you the code if any.
I could be wrong, but my suspicion is on the solenoid pack because mechanical problems are usually consistent while my issue is not.
@@shariqimtiaz ok, sounds good
@@GaryFerraro I did check again with another scan tool but there are no codes
@@shariqimtiaz You could have worn sealing rings on the low clutch housing causing a pressure loss for the Direct Clutch. 2011 year, may have the early style drum with rotational rings and the ring lands get worn out
So I was watching your video mine had a stall out when stopping also forward and reverse i replaced torque converter and tcc silonoid still doing it
My 2010 Town and country 4.0 compounder failed just like your rare case, it broke at the snap ring. I've read of a few doing this! Btw the compounder can be replaced in the car... It sucked but I did it.
Gary who would suggest has the best solenoid pack kit for the 62te?
I just go with a new OE solenoid pack
Been having a lot of troubles dealing with dealer and warranty on van. Got a reman transmission. And last week it dropped going down hill and was stuck in gear. Turned off and cleaned carped and then started and was shifting okay I guess had it towed to replaced transmission speed sensors. Code came up p0791 they replaced it and sent me on way. Today. Just did same thing again this time was stuck in gear for good. Would go over 40. And wasn’t shifting down either. Brought back and said they looking into wiring or electrical. ??? Any thought
more of an internal problem, speed sensors really do not go bad. P0791 does not point to electrical issue, something mechanical is wrong
I have a 2010 T&C with 207000 miles. Out side of some quirky shift issues and occasional minor slam, I sometimes experience a shift with no response, a quick shift into reverse and back to drive resolves it and I go on my way. Any comments and/or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
scan for codes and check fluid level, i would start with that
@@GaryFerraro I did what you suggested. No codes displayed but fluid seemed dark in color. Took it to my mechanic and fluid was over filled and probably needed changing, internal filter was plugged. After R and R and fluid filled, trans is working normal now. thanks again.
Paul David Great. Thanks for the update
Hi Gary
I hace a problem with 62te its spill all the oil ay the top of the dipstick.
I have a 2009 when I drive shifts to neutral I have to park cut the car off and start up and I can drive again
Thanks for your tips, you are a wealth of knowledge.
Your welcome, for some reason I couldn't reply on your last post, but sounds like the TCC solenoid is clogged if the engine is stalling coming to a stop
@@GaryFerraro Thanks very much for the reply. One more to bother you with if you dont mind. I have almost always had a harsh 1-2 and 2-3 shift (Journey and other forums are loaded with these as well) and when it went to the dealer when still on warranty they said this is normal. I doubted this then and still do. Any thoughts - thanks in advance. Like everyone else, I wish I was close to your shop. Regards
@@chumleye1112 If you have or have access to a scan tool, first thing i would do is whats called a "quick learn" can only be performed with a scan tool( snap-on, autel scan tools like this, don't need dealer for this), this will reset the C.V.I values and may calm down the shifting. Any codes present engine or trans?
@@GaryFerraro No codes present. Thanks for your time and knowledge, much appreciated. Have a great week.
@@chumleye1112 If you can get it done, try a quick learn first
Dear Mr Ferraro, i just finish rebuilding my zf 5hp24a (helped alot your videos) and the car dosen't moving forward, very stong and good reverse! When i shift from P to D i have just a 2 inch move from the car, like she want to go and then stops, without touching the throttle! Like it loosing pressure,i have checked maybe 10 time the skinny o ring and grease it to be sure it ok before installing the transmission. I have check in the dash if it shows all the selected speeds, it ok until i accelerate and then all the speeds are the same color and dont change. When i accelerate and the car dont moves and slips i get only one dtc P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio, i looked on the internet and the code it genaral alot of problemes can relate. Please, please, please help me before i take the transmission down again and check the A clutch!! Best reagards.
Wish I would have saw this before replacing the solenoid pack. Now it's stalling ughhh. Thanks for the vid
TCC solenoid may be no good, Stalling when comes to a stop?
@@GaryFerraro well it's weird, it was. Then the TCC shift was delayed, could feel a little thud while slowing down, but now it's perfect. Wonder if some debris found its way in or sealant broke off, but I'm pretty lean with that stuff. I got a new solenoid coming in regardless, was cheap 😁 maybe it was running the learn function since battery was unhooked for 2 days? No codes or anything showed up.
@@LifeofAedan I would swap out the solenoid
@@GaryFerraro ok I will do it. After all it is a lot easier to service than the main one
Mr Gary great job
I have a 2017 Grand Caravan SXT with 90k that has a transmission issue. Long story short, after 2nd gear it goes into limp mode. After cycling it twice I got it into auto stick mode and got it to go forward with no issue going down a straight road and then it disengages and goes back to limp mode. It'll go into reverse slightly sluggish and neutral fine. When putting it into drive it'll be delayed but will go into gear. Ran codes and calls for mainly TCM and pressure switch faults. Trying to figure out where TCM is located so I can dismount it and get it ready for replacement with new one at dealership. Help and feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you.
what are the code numbers and definitions?
I just bought a '14 T&C. Second day in, getting CEL code P0868. I've tried my best to assure the fluid level is correct (32mm @ 150°F), and reset the MIL. My plan was to test drive to see if the code came back or not but at the same time i am afraid to do so (not knowing much about transmissions) out of fear that i may cause more damage by doing so. Should i drive it around a bit more, or just take it to a transmission shop? In your experience what is a P0868 that doesn't seem to have any major drive-ability issues?
I've never really owned a Chrysler/Dodge before but heard they're pretty notorious for transmission issues! Namely, since buying it, i did think it "clunked" into drive pretty "hard", sometimes not. Same with reverse, sometimes it seems to be a pretty hard "clunk", sometimes not. The shifting seemed "okay" on driving it, but then again i drive like 'Grandpa' too!
Also can't help but wonder if this is coincidence; or if it was a shady seller that knew about something like this and just reset the codes and sold it to me with an issue, without telling me. They did do a fluid flush and or change; and when i reached out today to specifically ask if the filter had been replaced they said it had! I can say the fluid looks brand new! I ended up making some adjustments of putting some in and taking some out at various times trying to make sure it was a perfect 32mm @ 150°F...
Add: code did take a good bit to "pop", I'd guesstimate about 1k miles driven. The ODO reads 176,000 right now too for whatever that's worth!
@@sparcsapphiredge3087 That code usually means internal problem, Eventually you will need a rebuild
@@GaryFerraro thank you for the prompt response! I was afraid of something like that. Even worse that there's not way for me to know whether it's happenstance or I had a shady seller :(
I hope I can drag it out a while longer though, especially since it doesn't seem to have drive-ability issues (yet)!
@@sparcsapphiredge3087 Clear the code, may take a little before it comes back
Gary, I changed a rear rear abs faulty ABS sensor wire. As I was excited that lights went out. Went for a short 10 minute drive. Then the transmission with not shift out of park. I tried the TCM reset methods. I'm hoping not a tragedy here. Please help if you can. 2008 Grand Caravan SXT 3.8
Did you have any luck? Man I'm having the same issue on my wife's van now.. I appreciate any input
Would you recommend a 2015 Chrysler town and country. Thanks
Anyone know if you have to take the subframe down to get the transmission out on a 2013 Dodge Caravan.havent done one yet
I have a 15 and didnt
Bonjour j' ai les p1790 p0792 p0734 p0733 p0736 biensur elle se met en securité
Je n'ai plus de marche arriere juste le ralenti , defaut effacer ou pas . Je trouvais avant que la 4ème retrogradait brutalement
Et en vitesse de croisiere je pouvais avoir des tremblement
Merci
Translation, These codes are gear ratio and speed error codes, check your fluid level, if good you have an internal problem with the trans, computer sees it slipping
Donc il faut ouvrir dans tous les cas.
Merci beaucoup
Gary can you upload tear down for Audi A4 transmission 0AW 301103 N cvt humble request
Thanks for the video. I am currently not having any issues with the car, but inside the transmission filter were some teeth, I assume it is a problem waiting to happen.
Probably the low drum, may loose reverse
Hi Gary I got my 2014 caravan used with 100,000mi and it sometimes shifts rough into reverse and mostly at low speeds in drive and I have put 20,000mi on it and the problems hasn't gotten worse. The fluid is clean. Any suggestions? Great video 👍
The Low drum is on in reverse and drive(but comes off around 5MPH) the only thing i can suggest at this point is to try a Quick learn(need a scan tool) to see if anything changes
Hi Gary. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a 12 grand caravan, 190k, never had any transmission troubles. I have what I thought was a front brake grinding. I have replaced the rotors and pads and front hub bearings and passenger complete axle shaft. I've looked more closely at the brakes and wheels to look for anything rubbing (like a split rotor or wheel, excessive caliper pin wear) I cannot find the noise and am starting to consider its in the differential. This noise only occurs when braking at speeds below 20mph. Sometimes its every time you brake and other times, you don't hear it at all. Sometimes the traction light come on. I haven't checked the codes for it though. Do you think maybe the differential bearings are worn?
No, The Diff on these units never go bad. If your hearing the noise when on the brakes, what about rear brakes?
@@GaryFerraro Its definitely coming from the front. And today I did some more searching. Put it in gear with passenger wheel on the ground, left side off the ground and did lots of braking. It is just dumbfounding. The sound is definitely from the wheel hub or brake but I have no clue why. I was starting to think its something inside the caliper because they are 3 years old now but i don't see how a caliper could grind and squeal. Anyway thanks for helping me rule out the diff. And thanks to your videos, I feel good about our trans lasting a few more years . I probably should get the fluid and filter changed
Hi Gary,
You are a treasure of knowledge. I learned from your videos about 62te, and I disassembled my transmission because it had no reverse. It has a low drum which is missing teeth for retainer ring. All the aluminum teeth have been ground to powder. It had codes P0734, P0736, and P0792. Is it safe to replace low drum, filter, and fluid? Or I need to change more parts?
Please guide me how to carry out the relearn strategy as I am a DIY without access to speciality scanner tool for dodge transmission.
I will very appreciate any words of wisdom and experience from you.
Rana.
Is the only problem no reverse? drives forward ok?
I have a 2011 Dodge grand caravan crew with 132,000 miles on it. I replaced the transmission cooler lines, the filter, & enough fluid to change the filter. Fram filter & Mopar ATF+4 fluid. I'm getting a slow 1st gear engagement when it is cold out. Just curious what you would recommend. I've had the van about 1.5 years.
how is reverse? when you say slow, do you put it into drive and it doesn't move? was it doing this before you worked on it?
@@GaryFerraro reverse is fine, it acts like it's not in first gear all the way. When you push on the gas there is a slight clunk as it engages into first. I don't think it was an issue before. (It was warm out)
Have a 2012 avenger rt that will only engage in reverse. Only code that popped up was P0733. Any suggestions?
even cold no forward? any noises coming from trans?
@@GaryFerraro it's ok immediately after start, but as it warms up it starts to whine and it will slip out of whatever forward gear it's in.
@@mattcrawford9763 Almost sounds like your screen is clogging up, i'm surprised you have reverse, is reverse strong?
@@GaryFerraro when I put it in reverse and let it sit, the rpms climb and it does slip out of gear....the noise is almost like what an aging AC clutch makes....
Matt Crawford Ok. The noise is the pump starving for oil. Sounds like a clogged filter which means something is coming apart in the trans or converter
Hey Gary. Great video, thanks!! Quick question, I have a 2018 Dodge GC that is shuddering to a stop very frequently, like when I brake, it will be like bang, bang bang. The brakes and rotors are all new; I'm almost positive it is the TCC. It will also sometimes raise the RPMs on its own without my foot on the pedal, and even upshift like that. Could this be a bad TCC solenoid as well? (no stalling out though). Or something more ominous. Thanks!! Nelson
certainly sounds like it, i would swap that solenoid out.
@@GaryFerraro Thanks! I appreciate the quick reply, that is very nice of you.
Where is the parking pawl on the 62te. Mine is broken.
What is most likely cause of no converter lockup and P0740 code? How do I diagnose this?
The converters have problems on this unit but a 740 code can be a number of things. 740 code means the converter can no longer fully lock-up. Could be converter itself, the TCC solenoid, valvebody, even a worn pump bushing. Very hard to diagnose, usually an overhaul fixes the problem but these converter have problems , most jobs we get in are due to converter failure
I guess there wouldn't be codes for the TCC failure, as it's functioning electronically. Any PIDs that could be viewed, that may help in diagnosing?
If there's access to the TCC control wire, seeing the current waveform would be able to determine function or failure, even if mechanical.
There is the P0740 code which means the converter can no longer fully lock, but when the solenoid gets mechanically clogged, you are correct, no code for that. Always nice to hear from you.
that's exactly the problem I'm having, when warm and I coast to a slow stop it will chug and stall. if I stop abruptly or quicker it doesn't do it. thanks now I know what I need to get, do I have to drain the fluid when removing the side cover?
I would drop the pan and install a new OE filter as well
@@GaryFerraro when it first started doing it, I did change the fluid and filter. Was no more than 500miles ago, maybe a month. When I get the new solenoid I will change the filter and fluid again, she deserves it, the cost of the solenoid and fluid and filter, is definitely a lot less than a new transmission. Thank you for the video and advice, I greatly appreciate it. I plan on doing it this Thursday hopefully.
@@b0ng420 Make sure you use an OE filter, never liked aftermarket for that transmission
@@GaryFerraro will do, thank you.
Gary where can I get repair kit and other transmission parts in India Mumbai
My supplier cannot ship outside the U.S Have you tried getting the parts on line
Gary, thanks for your videos, they're really helpful. I have a 62te in a 2009 Grand Caravan that acts like it's in neutral at all times but in park. Any ideas? It was supposedly rebuilt right before I bought it about 30K miles ago. There's no trouble codes at all and when it happened everything was working great, stopped at a light, when light changed stepped on the gas and suddenly nothing.
Also, who makes the best remanufactured 62TE transmission that you trust the most? (I was thinking of buying a Caravan cheap because it has transmission problems that need to be replaced)
I trust only the ones that I rebuild, never bought one from any remanufacturer
Hello again, Gary! I have a quick question for you if you don't mind. In some documentation I found, it refers to specific "Preliminary" CVI values for the 62TE. Do you know specifically what Chrysler means by "Preliminary"? My L/R clutch volume is very slightly over spec. After I did the relearn, it was well within spec, but after driving a bit it climbed to around 68; 4 points above spec, I believe. I read somewhere that over spec values may be an indication of clutch wear. Maybe it's normal for values to exceed the "Preliminary" values due to the transmission learning driving habits? As mentioned in my previous response, my transmission is working like new, perfect shifting and gear engagement. Not that is has any bearing on the above, but my line pressures, desired and measured are identical.
Not sure what they mean by that but if working ok drive it around for a week or so and check again, i think you will be ok
@@GaryFerraro Thanks! Van has been driving great. Will continue to monitor for changes.
Thanks for the video Gary! I own a 2010 with a 62TE and now I know it has a TCC solenoid failure for sure because the van will almost stall on abrupt stops. Also something odd going on where the van fails to start, it will crank for a second and then stop, until I shift from park to reverse and back to park... and then it will start. Sometimes it also feels like reverse is too fast even with no acceleration applied. Any ideas? I wish I lived close to your shop it'd be something I'd take there since it seems you're very familiar with them.
I have this transmission in my 2015 Caravan. So far, it's got nearly 300,000 km's and (knock on wood) no issues. I have (twice) had the fluid flushed + filter and gasket replaced. I've had no trouble in REVERSE gear, but I notice the idle seems weak at red lights, but so far no stalling. My only concern (currently) is it seems to be a bit rough and "jolty" when shifting in between gears. Any suggestions??...anybody??
hi i have a pro master van with this transmission if you put it in to park the van will roll away . The cable is good could it be the parking paw and can this be changed with transmission in the van thanks
Have you disconnected the cable and put the trans into park to make sure the issue is in the trans?
I have a 1999 Chrysler minivan with a 3.3 V6. Fluid level was topped up, although it sounds like it may have been low at some point. It shifts and works in reverse, but none of the forward gears work. I'm wondering what the most likely problems are. Thanks
Im thinking the car may be in failsafe which is 2nd gear and there is a problem with a gear breaking off a drum. Does the car by chance move in 1st gear? If in failsafe, shut the car off and start it back up again, does the car move in 1st gear? You should have the 41TE 4 speed trans in your car
@@GaryFerraro , I did the "key dance" and no error codes show up on the instrument cluster. After shifting into reverse and then first gear it would move, so both reverse and first are working, although they are grabbing.
@@kellyanderson7115 ok, so if 1st is working then there is a problem with 2nd gear, probably the gear broke off of the hub, so when it goes into failsafe the car will not move because 2nd gear is failsafe
How much would you charge to rebuilt this transmission? Without opening the transmission it's impossible to find the root of the problem.Agree?
Im thinking on buying 2019 grand caravan. Do you know if that problem is fixed in the newer models?
The reverse problem is fixed, that should have the late drum
@@GaryFerraro what about the other problem with higher gears did they do anything about it?
Karol Honestly not sure latest unit I worked on is 2014. I also see a lot of converters go bad.
@@GaryFerraro thank you very much for the help!
@@GaryFerraro i have a 2017 caravan sxt I assume I half safe,
What are your thoughts?
I have a cuestion in dis transsmissio.i have a problem may transmission is hover hot i put neu solenoid i put ls kit an piston kit ay neu cooler de problem is desein son body help
I don't know if you are still active. 2014 dodge journey sxt awd. whining and gear slipping after oil heats up. Have to put in parks and shut off car for it to grab a gear but will slip again quick. I changed just the 1 solenoid and still had the issue. Used a voltage meter to check every solenoid and they all read fine. starts whining even in park. Do i need a new transmission?
The problem is the filter is clogging up, something in the trans or the converter is coming apart clogging the filter
HELP HELP HELP PLEASE! my 62te tranny is having issues releasing 2nd and 5th gear...so it feels like im driving in 2nd gear all the time and im reving above 5000 while going 60 mph...i changed the input and output sensor and still the same..im changing the transmission range sensor today but if the problem consists, my mechanic suggested the drum to be replaced...could the drum be the issue? another mechanic said it's probably the valve body and another mechanic said it was internal issues and gave mre a 2100dls quote....who should i go with ?
While thumbing thru my Gears September 2019 I came across an ad for Jasper as on back page in the ad it says to prevent the loss of 3rd and 6th gear by installing a snap ring 27% percent thicker in the case, can you enlighten us?
That is the snap ring that goes around the center support, houses the 2-4 clutch piston, but the clutch is applied in 3rd, stays on for 4th and reapplied in 6th, that snap ring likes to break, i always install a new one but it's not 27% thicker, will have to look into that
Hello Gary I have 2008 grand caravan 3.8 it shuts off when I put it in drive but in reverse works fine . Does the tcc selenoid is the only thing can go bad or it may be the torque converter too? And thank you for all your videos.
probably the TCC solenoid, not the solenoid pack, the TCC solenoid is by itself, that is the most common problem when the car stalls out, I would change that solenoid first
@@GaryFerraro thanks for replaying so fast. This is what happened I took it to the transmission shop and they said that they will rebuild it, and I agree whit 158000 miles it will be like new again. Well they put everything together and still doing the same. And I don't know what happened
@@GaryFerraro and I subscribed to your channel, whit so much knowledge, I don't want to miss it.
@@eloynunez2634 OK, so this stalls out when coming to a stop? Put it in neutral and it starts back up again?
@@GaryFerraro yes
Hey Gary I have a 2014 chrysler town and country code P083b came up I replaced the transmission pressure sensor and now It shudder a little sometimes when coming to a stop and I feel a little shudder or ripple affect when it shift between 3 and 4 also a rpm surge before going into 6 . No transmission codes. Any suggestions.
Are you sure this is full of fluid. No dipstick on this transmission
Yes I changed the filter and refilled 5.5 qrts. of atf +4 transmission fluid when I installed the transmission pressure sensor. I have checked it also.
My wife has this transmission in her 2015 dodge journey. She's having the issue where the car is stalling when she comes to a stop. The dealership is saying that she needs a entirely brand new transmission. According to your video it may be that clogged solenoid? Hopefully, because i think that's cheaper
I would say yes, common problem, I would do that solenoid first and also change the filter(OE) and fluid
Got one of these in a Journey with AWD. Only real complaint is a light whine on hard acceleration. Any preventative things other than filter/fluid changes?
Not Really on this, filter and fluid is about it
What I figured. I generally do that more often than "needed" I figure oil and grease is cheaper then replacing an engine or trans.. Then again I'm one of the folks who runs a Powerglide on the street.
Gary, were you trying to say the little black seal of the 2-4 clutch is a common failure, or just the improper re-installation of the part itself? I ask because I have a P0755 code on my 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and the trans solenoid, pressure transducer, variable force solenoid, and trans filter will be changed, however the estimate didn't include a 2-4 seal. Should I be worried? Thank you for your time and effort!
Justin re installation of the part. The P0755 code I believe is electrical
Bonjour après remontage du à un changement de cloche bas, j’ai le dtc P0944 . parcontre je n’est pas réussi à enfoncer le joint entre la crépine et la boîte. Sa peut venir du faite qu’il y’a pas une étanchéité optimale, du coup la pompe ne s’amorce pas.
Hi Gary your videos are amazing, they've helped me rebuilt 3 62tes now. One question i rebuilt one and its got a code P0734 and p0732 4th gear ratio error. It got all new steels and clutches, new pistons, new solenoid pack. The compounder threads were damaged so i got a good used one from a local transmission shop. I didnt take it apart. I talked to the shop that sold us compounder and they said they put a new piston in it as it was leaking and it looked good. The techs were very good and said its most likely a bad 2/4 piston or the spring isnt lined up or possibly that valve body. Do you have any suggestions to look at? I have removed the transmission already but done see anything obvious. I put air right to the 2/4 piston through the orfice hole that you line up to where valve body sits. I feel like i hear air leaking out. Should i hear any air or should it be a thud and then no air coming? Any help is appreciated.
well, the 2-4 piston actually comes on in 3rd on the 62TE. What do you feel when you drive the car? Maybe a problem in the Direct clutch in the compounder, you air checked that?
It feels like it revs high when shifting. On initial drive it felt ok but then after a few mins we got limp mode where it was stuck in 3rd gear. And we had pending 4th gear ratio code.
Then we checked fluid level and cleared codes and drove again it went through shifting up to 4th and then went to 3rd gear limp mode. Now we have pending 2nd gear ratio and 4th gear ratio code.
Haven’t air tested the compounder. Would you happens to know which ports to air for what? Not sure if there’s a video where you air test a compounder. I’m assuming you would check in all 3 ports of the compounder where those tubes go in?
@@FleetTech97 yes, one port is for the Low clutch, one is for direct clutch and one for lube. I have a 4 part series on rebuilding a 62TE i'm pretty sure i air check in the video
@@GaryFerrarook so you would recommend air checking the compounder? And then disassemble the compounder ?
@@FleetTech97 yes, start with that
Just wondering would it be possible to just replace the drum or is a complete overhaul needed? In Germany no real assistance, thanks
what is the problem, no reverse
Do you know why the 62te makes a clicking sound about every 10 seconds from the valve body at idle? I have read about people noticing it before but no one knows what it is, some kind of pressure regulation? 2010 town and country 4.0. just replaced my compounder for a broken drum (lost reverse) last week btw, thanks for the tear down videos!!!
I have heard that, i believe it's just the solenoid working
with no warning my 13 journey dropped to 3rd? gear on the freeway and redlined, pulled over and wont move at all now. greeted with p0729,734,735,736,841,846, and 868. fluid looked ok and didnt smell burnt. wasnt slipping or shifting weird. Not even sure where to start. Any advice thats not take it to a shop?
Usually with no warning, possible something may have broke or snapped in the trans, the only thing you can do is drop the pan see if anything is in the pan, this may give some direction
Hi Gary so I have a 2010 Dodge Journey that started having a random delay/harsh shift from 2-3 and 3-4 what would cause this to happen?
Have you had the car scanned to see if any codes are present, also have the fluid level checked too
Thank you for the effort you put in your demonstrations. I'm waiting on a vehicle with this gearbox and the following happened: Stop at the school and put in park, shutoff engine. Start up and select drive with no response. Not reverse, drive, nothing. Also no mechanical warning or noises. What could this be? To me it sounds like something electrical/electronic. Any advise please?
Ok, so this will not move in drive but reverse is ok? correct?
Is it possible it moves in drive but pulls off very slow like it's in a higher gear?
Gary Ferraro , no drive at all. No reverse, forward, high gear, nothing at all. I’m waiting for the vehicle to read the fault codes.
@@johanndupreez7736 If it happened suddenly, something may have broke inside the trans. Make sure it holds in park, if not look at the axles
Gary Ferraro , will do, thank you.
@@johanndupreez7736 ok, let me know
I have a leak on top of the valve body where the linkage comes out. Do I have to remove the pan and valve body to replace?
The side pan, i also remove the bottom pan to see the linkage from the inside. There is a roll pin and an anchor screw, watch teardown video to get familiar with how it comes apart
Thank you
Having the stall in drive. Acts like a manual if you don’t push in the clutch. Sounds like the solenoid you mentioned. How difficult to replace on a 2009 T&C. Can’t find any videos on it.
Not bad, the side cover has to come off and the solenoid is on the top(above the solenoid pack)
Gary Ferraro cool. Do you loose tranny fluid when you take the cover off? Any way to test that solenoid? Van left me stranded at an off-ramp with no codes. If I can get it rolling I can drive as long as I don’t come to a stop.
Hello.
I put an Autel 909ms and I was doing a live view while I was driving.
No second gear while driving in drive.
The transmission jumped from 1 to 3 gear when accelerating and jumped from 3 to 1 gear when decelerating.
I can select second gear manually and drives fine.
I'm in between the solenoid pack and the little tube of 2-4 that you showed in the video that might have been installed in the opposite way.
What do think ?
Not the 2-4 clutch, that actually comes on in 3rd. Is this setting a P0732 code?
@GaryFerraro
Thanks for replying !
No, no codes at all...
Any idea what could it be ?
@@elgroso806 Scanner may have some lag time, without looking at the scanner how do you feel it's shifting? Are the shifts on time?
@GaryFerraro
The scanner is working fine.
First gear is longer, then shift to 3.
And the same thing when decelerating, skipping second...
Maybe a solenoid isn't working right
@@elgroso806 I guess possible but had never seen that, , maybe one of the non-removeable check balls came out of place. All engine sensor reading correctly
Gary was wondering as i had code po734. And drop pan and found 3 pieces of large snap ring. Whats best to do for rebuild . Thanks
If you are in the New York area bring it to me lol. If not any good shops in your area? or is this something you want to do?
@@GaryFerraro it seems to be the outer edge of one of the drums. Each piece is broken off. I will do myself with the videos. Just wondering how far i might need to go into it. Total rebuild or not
@@toddburnham7670 My e-mail is
gsferraro@yahoo.com
can you send me a picture
@@GaryFerraro ok
I have the same transmission in my 09 journey sxt. It shifts perfectly when I first start it but after going around the block it won't shift at all. Any advice?
Hi Lisa, Sounds like it's going into fail safe mode, you need to have the car scanned for codes, this may give direction on what has to be done
Any idea if these updated designs were incorporated into later models from the factory? I'm about to tear out my 2013 (130k) to replace pump seal, and am wondering if I should have one of these on hand while I'm in there. Thanks.
They were yes, just not sure what year they started with them, maybe around 2015 or 16
Thanks. Sounds like I'll be ordering one.
Do you think if change the low drum will resolve the problems p0732 - p0792 - p1790?
Bonjour avez vous trouver la panne
2013 Dodge Avenger 3.6, the transmission is making a whirling whining noise. Almost sounds like a power steering pump. Car has 200,000 miles on it. Possible bad bearing in the transmission?
Do you hear this noise in park and neutral?
@@GaryFerraro no, only in drive, louder when accelerating. can also hear it when letting off throttle decelerating
@@halleffect1 Almost sounds like the transfer gears behind the rear cover. If you turn the wheel while driving straight does the noise change? if you turn to the left or right
@@GaryFerraro i tried that thinking it might be a wheel bearing. I couldn't detect a difference
Hi Gary my 08 grand caravan stx doing the stall every time is doing a complete stop the reverse is working good and the only code show is the brake pedal sensor the miles on the van is about 350000 I still drive the van shift k is just the stall that means is a bad tcc someone told me a bad converter
Problem is a mechanically bad TCC solenoid, have to pull the side cover down, it's the single solenoid on top, replace only with OE
K is a mopar part # 5169313AA right? When You change that solenoid is easy ? any special recommendations how to do it? Thank you for your help. You know the part number for the dipstick?
@@tomcat375 That's it, just get the side cover off, swap out the solenoid, reseal the cover with silicone. I do not know the number for the dipstick tool. If you haven't while your working on the trans, maybe do a service with a new filter, no pan gasket just silicone on that too
@ Gary Ferraro thank you Sir for the help I keep you update
I have a question.
My 2008 t and c Chrysler 4.0 l uses the 62te. I have an engine light codes 00792 and p0733. My fluids are maintained car has 192k miles.
No funny noises car shifts smooth. Clear the codes out and the light will come on only when I try to downshift manually to 4 3 2 1. It never gets to the first gear. Upshifitjg manually or automatically seems to work fine. Once I try to downshift manually I consistently cause the codes to appear. Any idea what is wrong. Thanks for any direction. GOd Bless.
Tinu Patel so if you drive this just in drive range no codes will show up correct?
@@GaryFerraro
Sometimes I drive for about 20 miles and no engine light but pending codes were stored. The car drive fine even with a bit of rough driving. But the minute I manually tried to downshift it wouldn't let me.
Actually sometimes codes do show up even when driving. I am going to change out the transmission fluid and see what happens.
Tinu Patel Do the filter as well. Let me know
@@GaryFerraro
I have gone ahead and changed the filter and transmission oil as well as thrown in a can of lucas trans fix. No change. When the problems occurred first I noticed the reverse gear takes about 3 seconds to engage from drive to reverse.
I took the car on the road for about 50 miles. Engine light came on and the usual codes p0734, P0733 , p0792 came back. Car still shifted like a dream on the highway passing and going about 85 miles and hour. No issues in that. Did not find the fluid to be contaminated it was bright red. Pan had the magnet and it was covered with the usual metal shavings. Above the pan the transmission was clean as a whistle. It took the engine light about 50 miles before it came back on. However my obd ii code reader saw codes immediately as I shifted through the gears in drive starting from 0 mph to 10mph.
I have a 2012 Chrysler 200 v6 6 speed. Will a 6speed 62te out of a car with a 2.4 engine work in my car?
Im honestly not sure, do you have the vin number for both cars?
Gary Ferraro i Need a new transmission or rebuild for my V6. The 2.4 6speed transmissions are much cheaper and seem to be a 62te as well
@@MP-zl1to I see, Not sure if that would fit, bellhousing may be different
My sister's won't go into drive, but has reverse. Any thoughts?
Problem with underdrive clutch, any codes?
Thank you for this very important information. When you removed the solenoid what bit did you use and the size? Torx, Allen, Robertson or etc... Is there anything else I should be aware of when I change this part out? Cheers!
It's a T25 torx to remove the solenoid pack from the valvebody and 7mm to remove the valvebody. The valvebody has to come out and the feed tubes may come out with the body, i drop the pan and remove the filter to get more leverage and to make sure the tubes are installed correctly the range switch may also be in the way, i usually remove that to make it easier(little bit of a pain to remove and install the switch, if you could swing it leave the range switch alone)
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the detailed reply. I was referring to the TCC solenoid which you stated in the video that you did not need to remove the valve body or pack. Please advise.
@@abschuss21 Ok, sorry, just unbolt and install the new solenoid, fairly simple
@@GaryFerraro The panel you refer to in the video - Is it the left wheel well panel or a panel on the transmission to gain access to the valve body & solenoid pack?
D.F. von Rabenau could you give me a time in the video when I mention this
Question for ya. Mine if I slow down really fast it will sometimes downshift and rev up. Also if I hold the gas when I'm going and let off the gas before it shifts it will thump into that next gear. But if I hold the gas as it shifts it won't thump.
How many miles on the car? When you release the gas before it shifts, that may be line pressure making it thump, line pressure usually decreases on the shift but lifting off the gas probably not coming down fast enough and with some possible internal wear on the clutch packs may feel a bump
144,000 I changed the fluid and filter a month ago and it's still doing it. I did find a small medal shaving in the pan. Are you saying a small leak in my trans cooler line can also maybe be the problem.
@@Theworldaroundme143 What year is your car
2012
@@Theworldaroundme143 It is very common for the cooler lines to leak, this would loose transmission fluid, if running it low on fluid may cause some internal damage as well.
I have spent countless hours researching my 2014 Caravan transmission issues and this comes closest to helping me, the TCC perfectly describes 1 issue so |'ll get this done but the other is that sometimes it seems to overrev before dropping back, i.e. 3000K then to 1500. Background: at 87000 miles, tranny rebuilt, seemed good, then the stalling issue started, took it back to mechanic, no codes and symptoms intermittent so in a hail mary they replaced the solenoid pack but I don't believe any of the other sensors or the TCC. The other day, started fine, put in gear, nothing. Put in park, then drive, still nothing. Revved a bit in gear and it engaged and has been fine in that regard (for now) Tranny only has like 10,000 mi since the rebuild. Any ideas? thanks oh, they didn't flash the PCM, just relearned
Stalling is the single TCC solenoid. Do you hear any noises when you put in drive and the car does not move? they changed the converter?
Oh, and when it went into gear it was smooth, no harsh clunk. Has happened since but then it hasnt been out much.
@@rocooper5686 Are there any codes present?
@@GaryFerraro No, no codes, no CEL nothing. I went back to the shop and they checked again for codes and nothing. They also said they replaced the TCC the same time as the solenoid pack. They're suggesting I get a PCM update flash done, which I will do, then I started to wonder if any of the four sensors or the pressure transducer might be the problem. He also mentioned it might be electrical but nowhere have I seen that as a possibility... grrrrr
@@rocooper5686 at this point what is it doing, still stalling and not moving in drive sometimes? i never flashed the pcm unlss a code was present and i found a TSB saying a flash with the latest software will fix the problem, if you have no codes, not so sure that will help (In My opinion)
Hey Gary thanks for the video.may i ask a question? I have a fiat Freemont, an Europe rebadge version of dodge journey which is having the same transmission. my question is about some deep grinding noise which is happening while taking of ( especially at reverse driving). Is this normal? If not where should I start? Thanks in advance.
Do you hear anything in drive?
@@GaryFerraro no just during initial acceleration.
And more info, i got changed the transmission oil about 5k km ago, the car is at 65k km overall.
@@alihho ok, during acceleration, then goes away after it shifts to 2nd?
@@GaryFerraro yes that's right
This is great info, now im almost 100% positive that my TCC on my 2015 chrysler T&C is the culprit of these slowing down hesitation and stalls.. scary stuff. I will DIY this project but do I have to drain the trans fluid for me to replace the TCC? Can i just remove the side cover and have minimal drips or spills if any? I just need to know what to expect and what would be the best way to tackle this fix. Also what do you recommend as far as brand and prices..
You could just remove the side cover, fluid may come out , i don't think a lot will but you may loose some, i only use OE solenoid from the dealer, do you have the special tool to check the fluid level when done?
Gary Ferraro i don't have the special tool how ever i do have the hacked engine oil dip stick that i also learned on YT.
@@ojuice1118 ok, just try not to over or under fill it
Gary Ferraro i wish they had an easier way to fill. Like a filler port that when fluid flows out of it then its exactly where is should be.. like an overflow fill port..
Gary Ferraro ok so what do I need for this job? The TCC solenoid and gasket?