I was so grateful to find this video. I'm a single mum with no gaming experience and a loathing for computers in general, but a slave to my 10 and 12 year old boys' desire to build their own PCs. This was so clear that even I could follow and my boys were SO impressed that I could lead them in building, so countless thanks to you!
Loved the video, it is great to see you responding to the community - unlike some other youtubers. I really enjoy these building videos and especially how they are completely raw. Thanks :).
Just want to say thank you for these videos on you tube. I have just built my first PC and your in depth talk through, the odd mishap and easy to understand jargon busting made it far easier than I anticipated. I came across you by accident but I am getting a good understanding of what you need to do to get the most out of owning/building a Gaming PC. Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼🌟🌟👍🏼👍🏼
That is why you look at the case descriptions. Most will tell you the dimensions of the case. And also tell you the biggest power supply, graphics card, etc. that can be installed in the case. Not just go by the way the case looks, air flow, etc. only.
Excellent video! Just finished putting together my first PC and this guide really helped! It all seems to work and now all I need to sort is the OS stuff which I'll do once I'm up tomorrow! Again, excellent video and thank you so much!
that case and your cable management make the build look clean as heck! I just wish that those tubes on the AIO came in white, on a build like this that'd look helladope
My 3700X goes to 1.5V in the BIOS as well. From what I've read, it is normal behaviour for these Zen2 chips. They will constantly change voltages and can hit up to 1.5V depending on the CPU load and current. On higher loads, it will drop down the voltages as it sees fit. These CPUs are designed to run to the best of their ability out of the box, requiring no tweaks whatsoever. If you're using the stock cooler, then it is possible you'll encounter heating issues. Otherwise, it runs really well and while seeing 1.5V is alarming if you're not used to it, it is not damaging. Damage can occur when you begin manually tweaking these CPUs (i.e. tweaking CPU speed yourself) and if you aren't damaging it, you're possibly reducing its performance overall (not just in benchmarks, but also in lower loads as well). These have been documented. I noticed performance reductions by adding even a 1.25V fixed voltage in the BIOS. Software acted like everything was good, but benchmark scores told the real truth. What works well is adding a negative voltage offset. You can lower the max voltage by a bit without impacting performance. My CPU does fine with an -0.0875V offset. Performance losses occur if I go too far (say -0.1250v). This does help shave some C off the temperatures while still keeping the CPU performing to the best of its ability. I think it's best to leave the CPU at stock settings and let the user decide if they really want to go around tweaking settings. I normally go in the BIOS and immediately start manually tweaking CPUs to get as much performance as possible. With Ryzen Zen2, I've found there to be very little benefit to doing so. And what I've watched and read about these CPUs seems to back that thought up.
I can confirm. Having a very similar setup (ASUS themed though), my 3900X is also at around 1.45 auto. Decreasing it hurts frequency. A small negative offset might remain unnoticed, but 1.2 is waaaay too low. Especially for gaming where it will not turbo that high or for long. I can justify lowering vcore for aircooling and for mutithreaded load, but even with that, only by offsetting it.
Yeah i have a 3600, and it goes up to 1.48ish volts. But thats only at very low current, and its always moving around Thats why people thought they were hot when released, but in reality they just idle warm. At load my 3600 with a 240mm AIO doesnt get above 50s-60s, at max load 70c. During gaming im surprised when it breaks 50c lol
The 3900x I have, was also pushing 1,48v. I got him running at 1.335v @ 4ghz all core. Performance remained really similar though (within 100pts at cineR20) ,then tried 1.225v and performance was the same as 1.335v just one point difference. In my case i want to stress the cpu as less as possible as I don't game much, but I don't much about OC, so I hope im doing it right.
49mins i saw the most relatable thing ive ever seen in my life ! Hahaha yells at the phone but answers like theres no problems in the world 😂 Cracked me up ! Great video friend , learned alot and made my Case choice of upcoming build seem solid !
I also have a corsair case and it came with little LED lights. However, I don't know where to plug the led cable into the motherboard. have tried switching led+ and led- but without success. Any ideas? I have a B550M motherboard
Very clean build! I take a slightly different order of operations that you might find useful: Put the motherboard in the case first (after installing CPU, RAM, and SSD, of course). You have no cables to get in the way, and when you do route the cables, you can see where all of the connectors are so that you can route them the best way the first time (instead of finding you need to re-route cables later). I typically put in all of the hardware, then add the cables all last. Doesn't make for a nicer build, really, but saves some time rerouting cables. The Fractal cases are great for that, because you can pull the power supply out of the rear panel and slide it back in after you deal with your cable management.
I used to do Mobo first as well... that seems to be against the grain for UA-cam PC building. I don't think it really makes any difference though, so personal preference!
@@Adamant_IT Yeah, I find going "with the grain" on what's out on UA-cam might not be super helpful all the time. lol. I mainly mention it as you mention issues you are having in your video at least 3 different times (i.e. the back of the case being bowed under the motherboard by the power supply cables) that would not occur if the power supply was not installed.
I watched your LBC#53 video on this case. I should get mine this week (9/9/20), coming from Neweeg. I am down sizing my system in some respects, but I feel that this case will be better for the setup I am going for. I have no problem in modding this case. so if I need a hole or need to move an item to make my build better for my needs I will. You made a remark about the front cover and when I looked at I knew that I was going to make a few changes on its appearance. If I can paint a car (1971 Mustang Coupe) I can paint a front cover. When its done I would love to send you a few images of it. Nice videos on both.
Clicked to see how well one of the larger GPUs fit into my case, turned out to be quite a relaxing video to watch while refreshing pages hoping to be able to buy an RTX 3080 sometime this year. Turns out the ASUS TUF 3080 RTX is just a little bit smaller than this card in both height and length so it should fit fairly well. Oh and thanks for the cable routing ideas, when I upgrade my GPU I think I will follow what you have done here. as I currently have a large pile of cables behind the middle 2 grommets.
I usually already attach the CPU power cables while the board is half in and at an angle. Saves me fiddling around to get them in, especially with an air cooler already attached and in tight cases or ones that dosen't have a proper hole on top for the CPU power cable.
Flip the radiator so the tubes go down, if the tubes are long enough. There's always some air in those loops and the air rises to the top. If you have the hoses there, the air bubbles can get sucked into the pump, and you can get some whine or trickling sound over time. With the rad the other way around you won't have that issue.
I learn something new about the power supply. Maybe i don't have to worry about that much, mine not getting ventilation in the anydees cube case is on. I been thinking on drilling through the tempered glasses to give it more air
I know he said putting any fans that weren’t Corsair was a pity, but I actually installed an NZXT X73 RGB into this case and it came out gorgeously :) just need to add more RGB fans to the inside
the auto VCore for the Ryzen is 1.47v for light single threaded workloads. it goes down to 1.1v at heavily threaded workloads. there are videos showing that if you under-volt it will show the correct frequency and be at that speed but you will still lose performance.
1.47 is too much voltage. Amd set their targets stupidly just to ensure all their cpus hit spec and nobody can call them for false advertising. Ever notice that other youtubers oc their cpus to insane levels at 1.35? There are many videos that show that.
@@superweeniehutjr2314 if i set a voltage of say 1.25, then it cant lose performance if all it needs at full load is 1.1v. And if your cpu is idle, then it wont need 1.47v because there is no performance to lose...because the cpu is idle! There is no logic to your argument.
32:03 where are the screws coming from to install the motherboard? do you just have to buy them? do they come with the motherboard? I didn't catch you mentioning. I'm looking in the packaging and I'm not seeing jack
@@MobiusChickenStrip sure did. it's in a cardboard box in the bottom. removing both side panels should reveal it. if not, just unscrew the bottom and that'll work. will need a #2 phillips head to unscrew bottom, hope that helps
@@robert_douglas Thanks for the reply. I had already removed the side panel and found the accessory kit, but the accessory kit doesn't have the motherboard screws in it. And they aren't listed in the manual as contents :( It only has fan screws and a single standoff screw.
@@MobiusChickenStrip that sucks! mine does list the motherboard screws, it lists them as MBD/HDD screws. they're phillips screws with a little dome, had 16 of um good luck, maybe see about contacting them to send you some?
My new PC, which I build in May this year, has almost the same configuration. Here is what I have chosen: Ryzen 9 3900X, ASRock Taichi Ultimate X470 motherboard, NVME Crucial P1 1TB SSD, MSI GEFORCE 2080 Super, 32 GB RAM 3200 DS with RGB from Crucial, two 4TB Hard-Disks Seagate Barracuda, SilentiumPC NAVIS 280 RGB AI watercooler, Case Sharkoon M25-W, BeQuiet Straight Power 11 Power Supply 750W, two 140mm RGB fans and one 120mm RGB fan, AKASA Cardreader with 4 USB 3.0 and SmartCard reader. I have overclocked the CPU to 4300 MHz all cores with 1.30V and the memory to 3600MHz.
With single latch DDR4 slots the trick for newbies is to put the memory into the open latch end first and then press down on the fixed end. I agree I am not a fan of the single latch slots👍 The Asus board had 1 x 8 pin plus 1 x 4 pin CPU sockets. Mounting the power unit upside down its a good idea to check the cable length will reach re your CPU slots. If the cable is short you can buy extension cables usually about 12cm long. Usually the 24 pin is not a prob. I've found the non modular power units tend to pose short cable issues. Case mods - I have on occasion modded the case re drilling extra holes to accommodate cable through put - if you can do that assess your build first and mod BEFORE you build up the unit. In my tool kit I have a 'whitworths' screw thread gauge like a feeler gauge set and the number of thread variations is jaw dropping- that also applies to the BS threads. - the metric threads tend to be pretty standard. I also have in my toolbox - a few years old 😊 is a thread 'tap and die set' useful if you strip a thread et or want to add a screw thread to a hole you've just drilled. A number of different size metal SELF TAPPING screws can be a bonus. You can buy fan extension cables (bout £3 - £4 = 1 to 2 or 1 to 3 in packs ) Be careful putting the M2 into the slot nearest the top PCIE slot as some graphics cards= fitting can be problematic. The Asus mboard has a CPU fan AND a motor (w cooler) pins. I agree re that GPU not to have the cables running across the fans -newbies note KEEP em clear ! re airflow /temps et 😊 Great build and I liked the water cooling fitting which newbies can see is not so terrifying in place of a standard air cool build. 👍😊
IF my memory serves me right, the MSI mboard uses mystic lighting which is ARGB for newbies addressable red green blue - whereas Corsair et use iCue with an independent controller, not sure if that would run off the mboard ARGB The Asus X570 gaming plus build I did I ran the ARGB daisychained off the AURA system 5fans 2 strips - no probs. I like matching the RGB to the mboard system as an independent controller does not sync well with using a separate controller. I also won't use less than 3600 DDR4 with Ryzen 5 + As always great vid !
Once again a cracking video, thank you. I really like the way you balance and give depth and justification to the build components. Been meaning to ask, is that Galactic Basic?
Would it have made sense to have put the 3 included fans in the front of the case then the radiatior for the cooler at the top of the case? Theoretically you'd have slightly positive airflow and slightly less dust
I've seen other videos for this cooling unit, but the fans are on the other side of the radiator, is there a reason as to why? is it because you set it up as an intake?
Question and comment: Why not plug in the 6 and 4 pin EPS to the motherboard? You have a PSU that can run them. As for the graphics card bracket it goes under the card in the 2 slots below and the card just sits on it. Not a very elegant design, but I have one in my rig that is RGB, so there's that.
The alternative is to top-mount the radiator, in which case you're cooling your CPU with hot air from the graphics card. So you're damned either way. If either the CPU or GPU is going to have to be cooled by pre-heated air, you could argue that it matters less on the CPU (therefore top-mount is better) but in my experience it makes basically no difference. If the cooling system is on such a hair-trigger that the 'loop order' affects it, there's probably not enough airflow full stop.
No offense this build is crap, think about compatibility which this build does not have! 3900x cpu/2080 gpu on a budget board with budget cooling it's a toaster see my review :the show is around building and he did not know where certain parts go and how to put them together!
@@dominicks3547 No offense taken, presumably by "budget board" you are being critical of the mobo VRM. Please see mother board review of gamers nexus which with due respect I would rather take heed than yours ua-cam.com/video/DinQsUNepoU/v-deo.html
@@markteeee that's your prerogative, I am pointing out that board has no place in a build with a 2080 gpu and a 3900x I have nothing against this guy except him spending over $2000 for two top end components then throw in a budget board then he made many mistakes like the m.2 failed twice to get it right! Maybe he was having a bad day a very bad day.
Ok beginner question here. I have this case and i just bought asus rog strix z390-e motherboard, and this mobo doesnt have 3.0usb connector,, and 275r case has 2 3.0 usb for front panel. Where do i connect the 3.0usb front panel then?
@@Adamant_IT i havent opened to see the board yet. just seeing from asus website. And it doesnt state any 3.0 usb front header. Only said 1 x usb 3.1 gen 2,, 6 x usb 2.0, 3 x usb 3.1 gen 1. or is 3.1 gen 1 is the same as 3.0? Thank you for your info.
5:12 just wanted to mention that what you said isnt entirely true here. its all dependent on your mobo QVL. I have a ryzen 3600, asus prime x470, and gskill 2x8gb 3600 c16 RAM. i threw in the exact same kit a few months down the road for 32 gigs for cities skylines. sometimes i would have no issues for weeks, other times i would have major crashing. it took me months to realize that my particular ram kit was not compatible in 4 stick config, but the 4x8gb kit of the exact same ram would have worked fine if i had bought them together. currently trying to sell it lol
Yes my MSI board also regulates Vcore way too high on its own. I manage to run my R5 3600 on just 1.2V completely stable when manually tuned, and that's with a 4.4Ghz all core oc too.
Man I am struggling, first time building a pc been around 5 hours and almost done. My radiator I screwed a dented the metal price a little bit not that bad. That aio was a big hassle and trying to learn where all these plugs go is the most difficult for me. Hopefully I can get it finished in the morning. Thanks for the help
According to Hardware Nexus the radiator is mounted upside down. Manufacturers are to blame for showing the incorrect mounting. Tubes to the top creates standing bubbles that can coolant starve the pump. It would however get in the way of the video card. This would be best mounted exhausting air through the top with the current top fans moved to front intake.
The front-mount rad acts as the intake. You can increase the radiator fan speed for more intake, or you can increase the exhaust fans for negative air pressure, which also works.
I always put a mobo/cpu/ram/video card on the mat, plug in the power, and do a post .. there are times, when there is no reason to assemble everything right away, just a thought
I'm still torn on if I want to actually recommend this in a video or not. I completely agree with it, but when you're building with a big-ass GPU, no onboard graphics, and a watercooler, it's not exactly convenient. It'd be no problem for me, because I've got test coolers and GPUs on hand, but I try to make videos that people can realistically reproduce. Not everyone's got three PCs of test parts laying about.
To not have problems, that is why people should do their research when they are picking parts for a pc build. Does not take that much time to see what cables are included with a power supply for example. Takes away lots of problems and frustrations if you pay attention to what you want and buy to see if they will work together. Do not blame the part if you buy one that does not include all you need in the box.
You also missed the latching screw off the M.2 before you installed the heatsink, Its easy to think the sink holds it down but it doesnt, nice build though.
@Adamant IT yep, idk why he thought the SSD will be holded up by the heatsink. Maybe becase the screw for the M2 slot comes in a very small zip tide bag and he overlook it.
Exactly. My neighbor made the same mistake when he set up his build, and when he moved it to his desk after the test boot, the SSD came loose and it wasn't being detected by the board. He almost RMA it. Also, not all M.2 SSD labels work transfer heat between the chips and the heatsink. Its always recommended to remove the label (carefully, for warranty reasons) if you plan to use the heatsink unless that SSD specifically has a label that works as a heat spreader.
@@RGInquisitor SSDs don't really NEED heatsinks, it only prevents the controller thermal throttling under really heavy loads but the NAND prefers to run hot. So I'd argue if the label isn't designed as a heat spreader, its probably not going to insulate enough to be a problem. Its probably even a benefit as it prevents the heatsink cooling the NAND too much.
@@alexatkin You are absolutely right about the controller being the one that needs to be cooled. However, the NAND doesn't need to run hot to perform well all the time, so a heatsink is always preferable so your controller chip doesn't cook itself. You don't really notice how damn hot m.2 ssds get unless you get a nice, aluminum external enclosure for one of them that works as a passive heatsink as well, and plug it in for a few minutes. The one I put together, if left plugged in for 7 to 10 minutes, gets too hot to pick up with your bare hands. That's not good for the device, no matter if NAND gets a few extra mbps because of it.
Yea the non-AF version would also be fine. You'll get more cooling from the AF front panel, of course, but corsair were reasonable with their non-AF front intakes.
I too like the p1 crucial and intel 660p drives when they are affordable. Just upgraded my laptop boot drive about 3 months ago to a p1 crucial nvme. Also swapped 2 x 500gb ssd/nvme drives on my desktop to p1 1tb drives. Got them for $115 + tax (USD) each.
@@Adamant_IT this has to be pretty bad for the rest of the components though, especially GPU thermals, I was thinking of adding an AIO to my PC, but either way seems negative. pushing hot air into the case or, pushing hot air into the radiator - Sophie's Choice :(
Mate I really enjoy your videos. I am missing those fixes on normal desktop computers but whatever. I think it's time for a proper intro for your channel though!
Yea it's on the to-do list! I do want more desktop-troubleshooting, but it all depends on something coming in for repair. I work on whatever comes through the door.
Is it just me or is it preferred to exhaust the rad out of the case? It appears that he has it setup to blow the hot air into the case or did I miss something?
Dunno if wiggling a cpu while its in its socket is the best idea, although you want to make sure it’s in nicely, the last thing you want is some broken pins.
Same question as a few others - where did you get the motherboard screws from? They were not included in the accessory kit for this case, and they are not listed in the manual.
This computer came back recently for service and another HDD to be fitted - I actually checked the SSD after having so many people bash me over this. It hasn't moved a millimetre. If you were shipping it across country that might be a bigger concern, but at home and car journeys, it's fine.
Adamant the vcore voltage was high because Windows 10 has the minimum power management setting at 100% so it keeps the CPU bouncing between full OC and idle. If you change the power management settings to 10% minimum it would auto down the power and temps to under 1.0v.
pretty sure there should have been an extra standoff and screw on that M.2 SSD. The standoff you put on was for the heat shield, but the ssd was flapping around. Should have been fixed down first, then the heat shield?
Yea this is swings and roundabouts - it's certainly a good idea to screw in the SSD, and this board did come with extra standoffs for that. But a lot of mobos are designed to have the heatsink hold the SSD in place, so I'm used to not screwing it in. I've seen a few comments about this though, and I agree. Next time I'll screw it in. I'm not expecting it to be an issue though.
@@Adamant_IT If you had just said, “oh, shit, yeah, I missed that and will fix it.” I would literally just have moved on. So now I am sorry to be such a pedant about this, but the idea of the M.2 not actually being physically attached to the MB other than by the socket and the heatsink pressing down being described by you as almost optional… Oh dear, I had to go and read the manual. Page 30 BTW. If this was my machine and I knew that standoff and screw were missing, I would not panic, but it would bother me and I would fix it immediately. I doubt anything will happen, but… My OCD is giving me hell. Quick edit: The thing is, the drive is not supported from bellow. Only pushed down from above. There is space between the drive and the board, and as it heats, and with time, it might well start to sag down away from the heatsink. There are articles all over the net on how bad it is to not use a standoff on an M.2
Brilliant and well thought out computer build. I personally don’t get the obsession with making the inside of a pc look like a Christmas tree with all the different coloured lights? Interesting to see a water cooler on a CPU. Do these water coolers have some form of pump or do they rely on convection to move water?
They have a pump built into the 'head'. Amazingly compact units these things. A big air cooler can match them for cooling capacity, but as I mentioned in the video, the idea of these is that you can move all the metal bulk out of the way to somewhere else in the case.
Nice video. I sympathise regarding the power supplies. As long as power supplies are reputable I don't mind buying second hand. Few months ago I grabbed a RM1000x for £40 on Shpock. I have bought on ebay as well. I got a HX1000 for £80. These were pre-human malware prices though
The front panel wires can be a nightmare to plug into the mb if one is old with bad near vision. You mb might come with an extra piece that plugs into the mb that is far easier to plug the case front panel wires in.
Yes, vast majority of cases have them pre-installed these days. You still need to check that they match up to your mobo, however, as some mobos have slightly different standoff patterns on the lower-half.
@@Adamant_IT Awesome thank you very much 😊 I was planning on getting the 275R AF but decided to buy the iCUE 465X instead as I just like the design a bit more. I enjoyed your video btw, I watched a large majority of it and learnt a few things regarding cable management ect so for that thank you 😊
I wonder why you installed Corsair Fans to push hot air into the case... 2.Why you didn't tighten the pump with screwdriver? 3.You have RGB fans with this cooler just you had to go with H100i, Platinum,which I own.
1. Would you prefer me to pull hot air from the GPU into the radiator? 2. You don't need to. They're thumb screws, you take them down to the stops and that's all you need. 3. Cost shaving to meet budget.
I was so grateful to find this video. I'm a single mum with no gaming experience and a loathing for computers in general, but a slave to my 10 and 12 year old boys' desire to build their own PCs. This was so clear that even I could follow and my boys were SO impressed that I could lead them in building, so countless thanks to you!
Good mom
Awesome :) your sons are lucky for having a mother that isn’t too disconnected from technology
so cute
Good on you for being such an amazing mom!!
awesome mom!
@45:52 background sounds like your neighbor is also involved in a "very satisfying mount" 😜
Lmao how did you catch that
@@teensuicide9103 Just turn the volume up
I can hear it. And I have no idea what this was 😅
some porn is going on :D:D:D:D:D
@@Adamant_IT you have a teenage son, right? :D
You're a life-save my guy, most the other videos I found were time lapses with no explanations
Loved the video, it is great to see you responding to the community - unlike some other youtubers. I really enjoy these building videos and especially how they are completely raw. Thanks :).
Just want to say thank you for these videos on you tube. I have just built my first PC and your in depth talk through, the odd mishap and easy to understand jargon busting made it far easier than I anticipated. I came across you by accident but I am getting a good understanding of what you need to do to get the most out of owning/building a Gaming PC. Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼🌟🌟👍🏼👍🏼
We all learn something every day.
Hey man!
I am from Israel , I like to watch all of your videos , very informative , accurate and good recording angles , keep it up !!!!
Dude thank you so much! I really needed this video. I'm a first time builder and it was so helpful to have all that step by stepped out to watch
Very entertaining and informative video, thanks! Can't wait to see the upcoming part with bios tunning
The gpu anti-sag thingy goes beneath the gpu, not on top
That is why you look at the case descriptions. Most will tell you the dimensions of the case. And also tell you the biggest power supply, graphics card, etc. that can be installed in the case. Not just go by the way the case looks, air flow, etc. only.
Never built a pc and this video is going to help so much as this is the case I've picked up so helps with cable management. 👍🏻
Excellent video! Just finished putting together my first PC and this guide really helped! It all seems to work and now all I need to sort is the OS stuff which I'll do once I'm up tomorrow! Again, excellent video and thank you so much!
that case and your cable management make the build look clean as heck! I just wish that those tubes on the AIO came in white, on a build like this that'd look helladope
Great video as usual. You inspire me to make my cables tidier!
I absolutely love this case, it's what I built my current and first PC on and it's so easy to work in.
My 3700X goes to 1.5V in the BIOS as well. From what I've read, it is normal behaviour for these Zen2 chips. They will constantly change voltages and can hit up to 1.5V depending on the CPU load and current. On higher loads, it will drop down the voltages as it sees fit. These CPUs are designed to run to the best of their ability out of the box, requiring no tweaks whatsoever. If you're using the stock cooler, then it is possible you'll encounter heating issues. Otherwise, it runs really well and while seeing 1.5V is alarming if you're not used to it, it is not damaging. Damage can occur when you begin manually tweaking these CPUs (i.e. tweaking CPU speed yourself) and if you aren't damaging it, you're possibly reducing its performance overall (not just in benchmarks, but also in lower loads as well). These have been documented.
I noticed performance reductions by adding even a 1.25V fixed voltage in the BIOS. Software acted like everything was good, but benchmark scores told the real truth. What works well is adding a negative voltage offset. You can lower the max voltage by a bit without impacting performance. My CPU does fine with an -0.0875V offset. Performance losses occur if I go too far (say -0.1250v). This does help shave some C off the temperatures while still keeping the CPU performing to the best of its ability.
I think it's best to leave the CPU at stock settings and let the user decide if they really want to go around tweaking settings. I normally go in the BIOS and immediately start manually tweaking CPUs to get as much performance as possible. With Ryzen Zen2, I've found there to be very little benefit to doing so. And what I've watched and read about these CPUs seems to back that thought up.
I can confirm. Having a very similar setup (ASUS themed though), my 3900X is also at around 1.45 auto. Decreasing it hurts frequency. A small negative offset might remain unnoticed, but 1.2 is waaaay too low. Especially for gaming where it will not turbo that high or for long.
I can justify lowering vcore for aircooling and for mutithreaded load, but even with that, only by offsetting it.
Yeah i have a 3600, and it goes up to 1.48ish volts. But thats only at very low current, and its always moving around
Thats why people thought they were hot when released, but in reality they just idle warm. At load my 3600 with a 240mm AIO doesnt get above 50s-60s, at max load 70c. During gaming im surprised when it breaks 50c lol
The 3900x I have, was also pushing 1,48v. I got him running at 1.335v @ 4ghz all core.
Performance remained really similar though (within 100pts at cineR20) ,then tried 1.225v and performance was the same as 1.335v just one point difference. In my case i want to stress the cpu as less as possible as I don't game much, but I don't much about OC, so I hope im doing it right.
49mins i saw the most relatable thing ive ever seen in my life !
Hahaha yells at the phone but answers like theres no problems in the world 😂
Cracked me up !
Great video friend , learned alot and made my Case choice of upcoming build seem solid !
Brooo I was dying how serious he got after answering the phone
Used this video today to help me with my first build. Very helpful 👌
I also have a corsair case and it came with little LED lights. However, I don't know where to plug the led cable into the motherboard. have tried switching led+ and led- but without success. Any ideas?
I have a B550M motherboard
was just researching cases but this was a super informative video. much love.
Very clean build! I take a slightly different order of operations that you might find useful: Put the motherboard in the case first (after installing CPU, RAM, and SSD, of course). You have no cables to get in the way, and when you do route the cables, you can see where all of the connectors are so that you can route them the best way the first time (instead of finding you need to re-route cables later). I typically put in all of the hardware, then add the cables all last. Doesn't make for a nicer build, really, but saves some time rerouting cables. The Fractal cases are great for that, because you can pull the power supply out of the rear panel and slide it back in after you deal with your cable management.
I used to do Mobo first as well... that seems to be against the grain for UA-cam PC building. I don't think it really makes any difference though, so personal preference!
@@Adamant_IT Yeah, I find going "with the grain" on what's out on UA-cam might not be super helpful all the time. lol. I mainly mention it as you mention issues you are having in your video at least 3 different times (i.e. the back of the case being bowed under the motherboard by the power supply cables) that would not occur if the power supply was not installed.
I watched your LBC#53 video on this case. I should get mine this week (9/9/20), coming from Neweeg. I am down sizing my system in some respects, but I feel that this case will be better for the setup I am going for. I have no problem in modding this case. so if I need a hole or need to move an item to make my build better for my needs I will. You made a remark about the front cover and when I looked at I knew that I was going to make a few changes on its appearance. If I can paint a car (1971 Mustang Coupe) I can paint a front cover. When its done I would love to send you a few images of it. Nice videos on both.
That is one glorious looking rig! Nice Job!
Clicked to see how well one of the larger GPUs fit into my case, turned out to be quite a relaxing video to watch while refreshing pages hoping to be able to buy an RTX 3080 sometime this year. Turns out the ASUS TUF 3080 RTX is just a little bit smaller than this card in both height and length so it should fit fairly well.
Oh and thanks for the cable routing ideas, when I upgrade my GPU I think I will follow what you have done here. as I currently have a large pile of cables behind the middle 2 grommets.
I usually already attach the CPU power cables while the board is half in and at an angle. Saves me fiddling around to get them in, especially with an air cooler already attached and in tight cases or ones that dosen't have a proper hole on top for the CPU power cable.
Flip the radiator so the tubes go down, if the tubes are long enough. There's always some air in those loops and the air rises to the top. If you have the hoses there, the air bubbles can get sucked into the pump, and you can get some whine or trickling sound over time. With the rad the other way around you won't have that issue.
I learn something new about the power supply.
Maybe i don't have to worry about that much, mine not getting ventilation in the anydees cube case is on.
I been thinking on drilling through the tempered glasses to give it more air
I know he said putting any fans that weren’t Corsair was a pity, but I actually installed an NZXT X73 RGB into this case and it came out gorgeously :) just need to add more RGB fans to the inside
the auto VCore for the Ryzen is 1.47v for light single threaded workloads. it goes down to 1.1v at heavily threaded workloads. there are videos showing that if you under-volt it will show the correct frequency and be at that speed but you will still lose performance.
1.47 is too much voltage. Amd set their targets stupidly just to ensure all their cpus hit spec and nobody can call them for false advertising. Ever notice that other youtubers oc their cpus to insane levels at 1.35? There are many videos that show that.
There are videos showing performance is lost by lowering voltages. Have you monitored the cpu voltage while doing a CB R20 render?
When a real load goes on a ryzen 3000 CPU it lowers the voltage to 1.1v.
@@superweeniehutjr2314 if i set a voltage of say 1.25, then it cant lose performance if all it needs at full load is 1.1v. And if your cpu is idle, then it wont need 1.47v because there is no performance to lose...because the cpu is idle! There is no logic to your argument.
ua-cam.com/video/2wM3obN2pAE/v-deo.html
here's a video that someone did on it. my argument has plenty of logic because there's proof behind it.
32:03 where are the screws coming from to install the motherboard? do you just have to buy them? do they come with the motherboard? I didn't catch you mentioning.
I'm looking in the packaging and I'm not seeing jack
Did you ever figure this out? I have the same issue
@@MobiusChickenStrip sure did. it's in a cardboard box in the bottom. removing both side panels should reveal it. if not, just unscrew the bottom and that'll work. will need a #2 phillips head to unscrew bottom, hope that helps
@@robert_douglas Thanks for the reply. I had already removed the side panel and found the accessory kit, but the accessory kit doesn't have the motherboard screws in it. And they aren't listed in the manual as contents :(
It only has fan screws and a single standoff screw.
@@MobiusChickenStrip that sucks! mine does list the motherboard screws, it lists them as MBD/HDD screws. they're phillips screws with a little dome, had 16 of um
good luck, maybe see about contacting them to send you some?
@@robert_douglas I hadn't made the MBD = motherboard connection, so I do have the MBD screws, thank you!!
My new PC, which I build in May this year, has almost the same configuration. Here is what I have chosen: Ryzen 9 3900X, ASRock Taichi Ultimate X470 motherboard, NVME Crucial P1 1TB SSD, MSI GEFORCE 2080 Super, 32 GB RAM 3200 DS with RGB from Crucial, two 4TB Hard-Disks Seagate Barracuda, SilentiumPC NAVIS 280 RGB AI watercooler, Case Sharkoon M25-W, BeQuiet Straight Power 11 Power Supply 750W, two 140mm RGB fans and one 120mm RGB fan, AKASA Cardreader with 4 USB 3.0 and SmartCard reader. I have overclocked the CPU to 4300 MHz all cores with 1.30V and the memory to 3600MHz.
Epic box fart when you took the GPU out. Almost as satisfying as peeling off plastic film.
This is a stupid joke and I love it.
It's good you have those tubes for cooling above the pump
54:00 struggled with that myself when I fitted that card a couple weeks ago. The bracket goes on the screws of the next slots below the card.
I was about to say the same
You put it bellow the gpu like on the on the 3 and 4th slot, like if it was another gpu. i.ytimg.com/vi/Axo0-FkqI4Y/maxresdefault.jpg
With single latch DDR4 slots the trick for newbies is to put the memory into the open latch end first and then press down on the fixed end. I agree I am not a fan of the single latch slots👍 The Asus board had 1 x 8 pin plus 1 x 4 pin CPU sockets. Mounting the power unit upside down its a good idea to check the cable length will reach re your CPU slots. If the cable is short you can buy extension cables usually about 12cm long. Usually the 24 pin is not a prob. I've found the non modular power units tend to pose short cable issues. Case mods - I have on occasion modded the case re drilling extra holes to accommodate cable through put - if you can do that assess your build first and mod BEFORE you build up the unit. In my tool kit I have a 'whitworths' screw thread gauge like a feeler gauge set and the number of thread variations is jaw dropping- that also applies to the BS threads. - the metric threads tend to be pretty standard. I also have in my toolbox - a few years old 😊 is a thread 'tap and die set' useful if you strip a thread et or want to add a screw thread to a hole you've just drilled. A number of different size metal SELF TAPPING screws can be a bonus. You can buy fan extension cables (bout £3 - £4 = 1 to 2 or 1 to 3 in packs ) Be careful putting the M2 into the slot nearest the top PCIE slot as some graphics cards= fitting can be problematic. The Asus mboard has a CPU fan AND a motor (w cooler) pins. I agree re that GPU not to have the cables running across the fans -newbies note KEEP em clear ! re airflow /temps et 😊 Great build and I liked the water cooling fitting which newbies can see is not so terrifying in place of a standard air cool build. 👍😊
I will say, I enjoy listening to your thought process during a build.... And the goofy English slang.
whats the size of the screws you put into the liquid cooler for the front it didn't get mentioned please could you tell me ?????????
Nice GPU. Got the 2070S model myself. Couldn't believe how huge it was as well.
I did the same to my 3700X, running 1.25V too.
IF my memory serves me right, the MSI mboard uses mystic lighting which is ARGB for newbies addressable red green blue - whereas Corsair et use iCue with an independent controller, not sure if that would run off the mboard ARGB The Asus X570 gaming plus build I did I ran the ARGB daisychained off the AURA system 5fans 2 strips - no probs. I like matching the RGB to the mboard system as an independent controller does not sync well with using a separate controller. I also won't use less than 3600 DDR4 with Ryzen 5 + As always great vid !
i can see a cutout just under the gromet for the front panel start reset wires
Nice video I have the asus z390a mother board but I am confused as to where to connect the pled+ and pled-
Once again a cracking video, thank you. I really like the way you balance and give depth and justification to the build components. Been meaning to ask, is that Galactic Basic?
nice build Adam
Would it have made sense to have put the 3 included fans in the front of the case then the radiatior for the cooler at the top of the case? Theoretically you'd have slightly positive airflow and slightly less dust
I think you called me a mad lad about the dual CPU connectors at 19:50
Amazing Spec'd PC,I Sub'd the day after this! Lol Been catching up on videos Since!
Hey man does the case actually come with power supply screws?? because i just got the case / its arrived and i donkt know if it has screws
I've seen other videos for this cooling unit, but the fans are on the other side of the radiator, is there a reason as to why? is it because you set it up as an intake?
can you also explain the fans and how they work with this setup??
Question and comment: Why not plug in the 6 and 4 pin EPS to the motherboard? You have a PSU that can run them. As for the graphics card bracket it goes under the card in the 2 slots below and the card just sits on it. Not a very elegant design, but I have one in my rig that is RGB, so there's that.
what's the benefit in having the intake fans on a radiator? doesn't that bring hot cpu heatsink air into the case?
The alternative is to top-mount the radiator, in which case you're cooling your CPU with hot air from the graphics card. So you're damned either way. If either the CPU or GPU is going to have to be cooled by pre-heated air, you could argue that it matters less on the CPU (therefore top-mount is better) but in my experience it makes basically no difference.
If the cooling system is on such a hair-trigger that the 'loop order' affects it, there's probably not enough airflow full stop.
Nice build, the specs are more or less what I had in mind for my next PC.
No offense this build is crap, think about compatibility which this build does not have! 3900x cpu/2080 gpu on a budget board with budget cooling it's a toaster see my review :the show is around building and he did not know where certain parts go and how to put them together!
@@dominicks3547 No offense taken, presumably by "budget board" you are being critical of the mobo VRM. Please see mother board review of gamers nexus which with due respect I would rather take heed than yours ua-cam.com/video/DinQsUNepoU/v-deo.html
@@markteeee that's your prerogative, I am pointing out that board has no place in a build with a 2080 gpu and a 3900x I have nothing against this guy except him spending over $2000 for two top end components then throw in a budget board then he made many mistakes like the m.2 failed twice to get it right! Maybe he was having a bad day a very bad day.
Ok beginner question here. I have this case and i just bought asus rog strix z390-e motherboard, and this mobo doesnt have 3.0usb connector,, and 275r case has 2 3.0 usb for front panel. Where do i connect the 3.0usb front panel then?
That mobo's USB 3.0 front header is along the bottom row, where the USB 2.0 and front-panel headers are
@@Adamant_IT i havent opened to see the board yet. just seeing from asus website. And it doesnt state any 3.0 usb front header. Only said 1 x usb 3.1 gen 2,, 6 x usb 2.0, 3 x usb 3.1 gen 1. or is 3.1 gen 1 is the same as 3.0? Thank you for your info.
hi nice vid. how mutch space i have when the 360 is instaled? how mutch space for the grafikcard with instaled 360 radiator i mean
?
5:12 just wanted to mention that what you said isnt entirely true here. its all dependent on your mobo QVL. I have a ryzen 3600, asus prime x470, and gskill 2x8gb 3600 c16 RAM. i threw in the exact same kit a few months down the road for 32 gigs for cities skylines.
sometimes i would have no issues for weeks, other times i would have major crashing.
it took me months to realize that my particular ram kit was not compatible in 4 stick config, but the 4x8gb kit of the exact same ram would have worked fine if i had bought them together.
currently trying to sell it lol
Yes my MSI board also regulates Vcore way too high on its own. I manage to run my R5 3600 on just 1.2V completely stable when manually tuned, and that's with a 4.4Ghz all core oc too.
good oc on your ryzen im at 4.3, whats your best all core cinebench R20 score?
4015 was my highest ever score turning off as many background processes and programs as possible. Typically it's in the 3800s tho.
@@felixlersha nice thats up there, i got 3822 as my highest
Do the screws to secure the motherboard to the case come with the case or motherboard?
Man I am struggling, first time building a pc been around 5 hours and almost done. My radiator I screwed a dented the metal price a little bit not that bad. That aio was a big hassle and trying to learn where all these plugs go is the most difficult for me. Hopefully I can get it finished in the morning. Thanks for the help
According to Hardware Nexus the radiator is mounted upside down. Manufacturers are to blame for showing the incorrect mounting. Tubes to the top creates standing bubbles that can coolant starve the pump. It would however get in the way of the video card. This would be best mounted exhausting air through the top with the current top fans moved to front intake.
So there is the cpu cooler fans, and three exhaust fans, is it not necessary to have intake fans?
Alternatively couldn't the cpu cooler/radiator be placed on the top, and have the intake fans left as is on the right hand side?
The front-mount rad acts as the intake. You can increase the radiator fan speed for more intake, or you can increase the exhaust fans for negative air pressure, which also works.
Why is it that the glass panel is always on the left hand side ?
nice build
Huge rig!!!!!! Only one question. Why not an Nvme pci-e 4th generation??? The difference in price is relevant, but the performance are awesome!!!!
I always put a mobo/cpu/ram/video card on the mat, plug in the power, and do a post .. there are times, when there is no reason to assemble everything right away, just a thought
I'm still torn on if I want to actually recommend this in a video or not. I completely agree with it, but when you're building with a big-ass GPU, no onboard graphics, and a watercooler, it's not exactly convenient. It'd be no problem for me, because I've got test coolers and GPUs on hand, but I try to make videos that people can realistically reproduce. Not everyone's got three PCs of test parts laying about.
To not have problems, that is why people should do their research when they are picking parts for a pc build. Does not take that much time to see what cables are included with a power supply for example. Takes away lots of problems and frustrations if you pay attention to what you want and buy to see if they will work together. Do not blame the part if you buy one that does not include all you need in the box.
I think that graphics card bracket goes bellow card screws on not used slots and pushes/keep it up from bellow.
Aye now, your goatee reminded me of a TV series called Dobie Gillis, and a character Maynard and the Beatniks, very funny sitcom..lol..take care..
Would it fit two fans to do pulsh pull with a VGA this big?
which direction should the radiator fans aim to? intake or exhaust?
You also missed the latching screw off the M.2 before you installed the heatsink, Its easy to think the sink holds it down but it doesnt, nice build though.
@Adamant IT yep, idk why he thought the SSD will be holded up by the heatsink. Maybe becase the screw for the M2 slot comes in a very small zip tide bag and he overlook it.
agreed.
Exactly. My neighbor made the same mistake when he set up his build, and when he moved it to his desk after the test boot, the SSD came loose and it wasn't being detected by the board. He almost RMA it.
Also, not all M.2 SSD labels work transfer heat between the chips and the heatsink. Its always recommended to remove the label (carefully, for warranty reasons) if you plan to use the heatsink unless that SSD specifically has a label that works as a heat spreader.
@@RGInquisitor SSDs don't really NEED heatsinks, it only prevents the controller thermal throttling under really heavy loads but the NAND prefers to run hot. So I'd argue if the label isn't designed as a heat spreader, its probably not going to insulate enough to be a problem. Its probably even a benefit as it prevents the heatsink cooling the NAND too much.
@@alexatkin You are absolutely right about the controller being the one that needs to be cooled. However, the NAND doesn't need to run hot to perform well all the time, so a heatsink is always preferable so your controller chip doesn't cook itself.
You don't really notice how damn hot m.2 ssds get unless you get a nice, aluminum external enclosure for one of them that works as a passive heatsink as well, and plug it in for a few minutes. The one I put together, if left plugged in for 7 to 10 minutes, gets too hot to pick up with your bare hands. That's not good for the device, no matter if NAND gets a few extra mbps because of it.
Based off your description of the selection of your selection the MOBO why would you not go with B550?
Can this build work for the regular 275r or do you have to get the air flow variant
Yea the non-AF version would also be fine. You'll get more cooling from the AF front panel, of course, but corsair were reasonable with their non-AF front intakes.
Can a 360 AIO fit in front? If so which would you recommend ?
does this case comes with fans in stock ???
Just found your channel and love it!
Wow this is almost identical to my recent build! AIO, ram, power supply, motherboard and case! Nice choices! LOL
Just watched a gamers nexus video that suggests the pump should be in the bottom might want to check it out
you have cool videos. really like watching them. Thank you.
I too like the p1 crucial and intel 660p drives when they are affordable. Just upgraded my laptop boot drive about 3 months ago to a p1 crucial nvme. Also swapped 2 x 500gb ssd/nvme drives on my desktop to p1 1tb drives. Got them for $115 + tax (USD) each.
Is thermal paste not needed in a config like that? (Sorry if that's a stupid question, I'm new to all this)
is there enough space for be Quiet! Dark Rock 4 Pro ?
does the radiator push air out of the case or in, in this mounting with this aio?
It depends what way around you mount the fans. In the vast majority of builds, they should be mounted to pull air into the case through the radiator.
@@Adamant_IT this has to be pretty bad for the rest of the components though, especially GPU thermals, I was thinking of adding an AIO to my PC, but either way seems negative. pushing hot air into the case or, pushing hot air into the radiator - Sophie's Choice :(
Mate I really enjoy your videos. I am missing those fixes on normal desktop computers but whatever.
I think it's time for a proper intro for your channel though!
Yea it's on the to-do list!
I do want more desktop-troubleshooting, but it all depends on something coming in for repair. I work on whatever comes through the door.
I appreciate your answer, so I guess it's time for us to wait. Have a good one mate.
@@Adamant_IT :))
Is it just me or is it preferred to exhaust the rad out of the case? It appears that he has it setup to blow the hot air into the case or did I miss something?
Dunno if wiggling a cpu while its in its socket is the best idea, although you want to make sure it’s in nicely, the last thing you want is some broken pins.
Same question as a few others - where did you get the motherboard screws from? They were not included in the accessory kit for this case, and they are not listed in the manual.
For any that are as confused as I was, the accessory kit includes MBD/HDD screws. These are what you want to use (MBD=motherboard).
high end specs, great job
your still supposed to use the m.2 retention screw even tho you used a heatsink. It will fail soon as it gets bumped
This computer came back recently for service and another HDD to be fitted - I actually checked the SSD after having so many people bash me over this. It hasn't moved a millimetre.
If you were shipping it across country that might be a bigger concern, but at home and car journeys, it's fine.
Adamant the vcore voltage was high because Windows 10 has the minimum power management setting at 100% so it keeps the CPU bouncing between full OC and idle. If you change the power management settings to 10% minimum it would auto down the power and temps to under 1.0v.
pretty sure there should have been an extra standoff and screw on that M.2 SSD. The standoff you put on was for the heat shield, but the ssd was flapping around. Should have been fixed down first, then the heat shield?
Yea this is swings and roundabouts - it's certainly a good idea to screw in the SSD, and this board did come with extra standoffs for that. But a lot of mobos are designed to have the heatsink hold the SSD in place, so I'm used to not screwing it in. I've seen a few comments about this though, and I agree. Next time I'll screw it in. I'm not expecting it to be an issue though.
@@Adamant_IT If you had just said, “oh, shit, yeah, I missed that and will fix it.” I would literally just have moved on. So now I am sorry to be such a pedant about this, but the idea of the M.2 not actually being physically attached to the MB other than by the socket and the heatsink pressing down being described by you as almost optional… Oh dear, I had to go and read the manual. Page 30 BTW. If this was my machine and I knew that standoff and screw were missing, I would not panic, but it would bother me and I would fix it immediately. I doubt anything will happen, but… My OCD is giving me hell.
Quick edit: The thing is, the drive is not supported from bellow. Only pushed down from above. There is space between the drive and the board, and as it heats, and with time, it might well start to sag down away from the heatsink. There are articles all over the net on how bad it is to not use a standoff on an M.2
@@rigsbyrigged1831 the world is going to end.
Always wondered why those USB 3.0 connector cable have to be so big and sturdy. Whatever case you're using, that cable is a pain in the ...
Brilliant and well thought out computer build. I personally don’t get the obsession with making the inside of a pc look like a Christmas tree with all the different coloured lights? Interesting to see a water cooler on a CPU. Do these water coolers have some form of pump or do they rely on convection to move water?
They have a pump built into the 'head'. Amazingly compact units these things. A big air cooler can match them for cooling capacity, but as I mentioned in the video, the idea of these is that you can move all the metal bulk out of the way to somewhere else in the case.
The fans in front...just a doubt, pull into the case or push air out?
Intake at the front, exhaust at the back and top. That's the meta anyway... you can customise, but front-to-back is the rule of thumb.
@@Adamant_IT og, thanks. I have my masterliquid ml120r rgb on top. I will try on front as intake too
"Soooo where's Wally?" I asked myself 37 times during this one! Can't help it, Wally BELONGS with Gromit! ... :P
Loved this and due to the cable routing went for the Phanteks case, also has a hard drive LED :)
Nice video. I sympathise regarding the power supplies. As long as power supplies are reputable I don't mind buying second hand. Few months ago I grabbed a RM1000x for £40 on Shpock. I have bought on ebay as well. I got a HX1000 for £80. These were pre-human malware prices though
human malware, Timmy Joe viewer...? :P
The front panel wires can be a nightmare to plug into the mb if one is old with bad near vision. You mb might come with an extra piece that plugs into the mb that is far easier to plug the case front panel wires in.
Just had a question for you, if you were to put it in a fan controller, where would you put it on the motherboard?
So do the motherboard standoffs come pre-installed or at least with the case? as well as all the other needed screws?
Yes, vast majority of cases have them pre-installed these days. You still need to check that they match up to your mobo, however, as some mobos have slightly different standoff patterns on the lower-half.
@@Adamant_IT Awesome thank you very much 😊 I was planning on getting the 275R AF but decided to buy the iCUE 465X instead as I just like the design a bit more.
I enjoyed your video btw, I watched a large majority of it and learnt a few things regarding cable management ect so for that thank you 😊
I wonder why you installed Corsair Fans to push hot air into the case...
2.Why you didn't tighten the pump with screwdriver?
3.You have RGB fans with this cooler just you had to go with H100i, Platinum,which I own.
1. Would you prefer me to pull hot air from the GPU into the radiator?
2. You don't need to. They're thumb screws, you take them down to the stops and that's all you need.
3. Cost shaving to meet budget.