People should also use whats recommended for their engines and not go by brand for example u cant use synthetic on mazda rotary engines and nissan likes esters in their oil the 370 or 350 so motul works best on those and cars with flat tappet cams use valvoline vr racing oil people need to research what engine they have forget going for brands ferrari use shell helix ultra no mobil 1 or amsoil not those cars folks
I know people that tried mobil 1 and switched to castrol engine was quieter on castrol the valve train so going with brands cause someone said its the best is not true all motors like different oil amsoil wont be good for all engines but people believe google and the internet lol
I rum Amsoil in everything. I have 445k on my 7.3 . I have changed the oil 9 times. Filter at 25k . Oil n filter every 50k. Testing it with independent lab. It comes back same way. Still in spec. Run for 12k and re-sample. The motor is just as strong as ever. Replaced injectors at 385. Conventional oils are every 5k. That is 89 vs 9...money and time saved.
But I like to have a reason to work on cars I use Liqui Moly and change it between 5-7k miles which for an oil like this one is overkill but I find it a hassle to send back analysis and I can put that money to some other stuff.
I Run Amsoil Signature series in everything as well. Car is a prius 407k miles! Runs perfect no noise or clatter , runs as good as new , change oil every 15k , I know its 25k oil, but I run 85 mph most of time. HD evolution engine 100k miles runs perfect, str8 50 in trans. Nothing better, mobil1 garbage, they spent millions on brainwashing. Run Amsoil!
Exactly Blake, The two different oils in a High performance high revving engine, show no difference in wear, per nascar and F1 other than opinion of course.
I have a 2007 4Runner with over 260K miles and have always used Amsoil. It uses "0" oil between the 15K mile oil change. I have done this since the vehicle was 1 year old. Never had a failure of any kind.
What is your point? Is your 4Runner using the engines in this video? Sounds like your butt hurt because your chosen oil did not win? My family has owned Toyota's longer than you have been alive. I have seen them live long long lifes on Castrol GTX 20W50 and 3000 miles oil changes. I have also ran every brand of Synthetic oil available in the USA, a few that are only available in Europe and few only available in Asia. Run any synthetic brand like Mobil-1, PUP, Valvoline, Quaker State and change the oil every 6 months or 10K miles which ever comes first and that engine will never suffer an oil related failure!
A friend who built engines for short-track racing and also raced his own car, ran several different oils in his own motor until he found the one that showed the least wear on components, rod & main bearings, lifters & cam, and pistons/cylinder walls. This was before the current synthetics.
All I know is in regular life, I’ve got an E36 M3 that is run strictly on Mobil 1. The car now has 273,400 miles, uses a little less than a quart of oil in 5,000 miles, has no knocking or other unusual sounds. I use Mobil 1 in my 2018 4Runner and ALL my 4 cycle power equipment-zero failures. My 2006 4Runner had 237,000 miles when I traded it in, no oil consumption.
Hard to argue with these mileage numbers. This encourages me to stick with Mobil 1, as I was recently thinking about trying other oils. Maybe they are out there, but I have not found any documented cases, other than Mobil 1, being used for 250k miles with little to no wear. Thanks for your comment.
I have a yard tractor that is over 20 years old with a Kohler V twin. Gets used a lot when the grass is growing. All it has ever had in it is Mobil 1 15- 50 racing oil. Never ran it with no oil.
Not impressed I have a 2011 Dodge ram 3500 and now I 500 it now has 997000 miles on it I change oil every 10 to 12000 miles and I have used rotella 15 W-40. I also hauled travel trailers with it for a living so it's pulling a heavy load all the time
@@TenzaMotorsports I don't think any oil would stay in between the rod and crank with engine running, the oil would get slung out. The rod end just got hot and seized to the crank.
Most all small engines are built without rod or crank shaft bearings. Running a engine without oil really proves nothing. As soon as you start the engine, the oil left between the rod and crank is spun off. The aluminum rod then heats up until it seizes.
upside downdog right! Do it on a small engine with a spin on oil filter and pressurized oil system not a splash system. Those rods will have replaceable bearings
For engine oil I take it to a local dealer shop for the brand- they use a full synthetic Castrol or Valvoline, depending on driving west or east, do any free recalls or updates, and know what to look for that typically goes wrong with this model and year. For my 2 motorcycles, I change it myself and use half Valvoline regular 10w-40 and half Valvoline 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil, from Walmart. It gives me the best shifting smoothness and the firmest clutch feel. I change it when the shifting starts to get worse, since the same oil is in the engine, clutch and manual transmission. It is usually before the 7,500 miles in the owner manuals.
I got a Honda GX200 and run 10w 30W and it has ran every day for hours for over 3 years. They run a pump 5-6 days a week and the only down time is adding more fuel or travel time between locations. This is in cold and hot Texas summers so I would say Mobil 1 has done very well and Honda builds damn good engines.
The problem is, there is no way to know if the failure is due to oil or the differences in the engines themselves. MAYBE if you did the same test for three rounds (six engines) or more to rule out engine differences, this would carry some weight.
You are correct in pointing out that a larger sample set would yield more definitive results. I would love to have the money to perform such test but that not the case. I felt this test would at least give an idea of the oils performance using a real engine instead of a simulator based test. Thanks for the comment.
oil impregnates metal even when removed from a motor the residual oil continues to lubricate not for very long but that's the point of the test , some very special oil lubricants when removed can and have done continue to lubricate engine bearings for many hundreds of miles
@@craigbadder4372 no its the best apparently all the info I found says so I switched from mobile 1 it's pricy but I'm trying to get 300k+ out of my truck an expensive oil change every 4-5 months is better on the pocket than a new truck payment lol
When Castrol was first introduced, they.ran a test similar to this versus so me other oil. They ran both engines for a period of time, then drained both and ran them dry. The engine had the other oil seized after a short while, the one with C astrol ran for a very long while after being drained. The main reason I have since used Castrol I would like to see you run this test using Castrol. .
There is oil. Just very very little. It’s a lubricity test. It’s not a waste. I got good solid results from this test. If you need more explanation on what is being tested here I can do that
I won 6 road racing championships riding Yamaha motorcycles. I was two time national champion, AMA, and, WERA. I switched to Amsoil. I had my first catastrophic engine failure using Amsoil. I woke up two days later in the hospital in plaster. six weeks later when I was able to, I took the engine apart, I had my very first Piston seizure, both cylinders using Amsoil.. I have both pistons and the helmet I was wearing that day which has three cracks in it, and the face shield is melted from sliding on the asphalt. I have them on display in my garage. That was the end of my road racing days After eight successful years ... by the way. Since Amsoil first came out, I have been using it in my cars and trucks. I change the oil once a year. I’ve never had a mechanical internal part fail on any of my vehicles for over 30 years. Right now in my ram 1500 hemi, I am using mobile one and Purolator oil filters.. The federal government, the US Army, the Marines, use mobile one in their multi million dollar tanks. Chevy Corvettes came from the factory with mobile one in them at one time, maybe they still do, some Ferraris come from the factory with mobile one. i’ve often wondered how a new car could come with mobile one in the crank case because, the rings need to be seated my honing themselves in against the crosshatch marks on the cylinder bore‘s. The film strength of mobile one would prevent that matching of the parts by running the engine because of it film strength.. they also use mobile one in equipment at NASA. ever wonder why all these little companies take a.m. at the big boys/namely/mobile one? it’s actually reassuring to see that mobile one is the main target of these other companies attempting to knock mobile one off the top spot. They always claim to be better than or as good as mobile one. I’m actually grateful to these other companies for reassuring me that, Mobile one is still the on top.. Any multi weight oil is partially synthetic.. The wider the spread between the winter weight numbers, such as 10W-30 versus, 10 W 60, the wider the gap, the more polymers have been added in the additives package.. there have been a few gimmick oils over the decades. There are used to be the stuff called Arco graphite. It was black from the graphite in the oil. The problem was, the oil filter would filter out the graphite and would actually block the filter, and it would run on bypass.. then there was that stuff called slick 50.. same thing, solid particulates in the oil that the filter will take out, and it blocks the filter in the meantime How about whynns friction proofing( spelling). that stuff was over 94% pure kerosene then there was STP. Do you know what that is, it is refined crude oil with no additives yet. It is the building block from which they create multi weight oils with additives like anti-foaming agent, anti-corrosive agents, polymers ,STP is the place you start when you are making oil. He start with refined crude oil that has no additives. That is what STP is.. when it’s hot, it is like water, when it’s cold, it would take an hour to pour one can into your engine if it’s below zero. It is not stable at all. I don’t remember what they used to claim it did for your engine, but it was a big seller.. There’s a lot of gimmicks hot there
This Test is good but because you waited for both engines to seize they will both have similar levels of damage and then this teardown is not useful. Maybe running the engines on high load and below minimum oil level with two oils will demonstrate a long-term comparison with different oils when they are strained their hardest.
Great comment! I will explain my reasoning better in the next versus video I do. I tried to explain the best I could in earlier videos but I keep getting questions. So keep an eye out for that video, I will answer your question.
Nowadays... the engine design is so subtle and clearance is soo tight. Take a look at how many kinds of liqui moly engine oil we have... They are all designed for specific engine/brand. you can't just say good or bad through a different single-cylinder engine and do the basic test...but watching the test is still interesting
That’s why when I first started this I told everyone the results are subjective. I’m not going to say one is better than another. You need to find out for yourself. What I’m doing is just adding information and my findings so people can better decide.
If you do a bearing scar test, where the oil is tested in a bath, not how well it bonds to the metal after drained, Amsoil still has the smallest wear scar. As soon as there's something with more protection, I'll run that.
I've always ran Mobil 1 4T racing oil in my CBR600RR, I switched to Amsoil by recommendations from other guys at the track. I ran Amsoil for a season and after cracking the case at the end of the season I saw absolutely no difference in wear, for me I cannot justify a 100$ oil change VS a 60$ oil change. Maybe there is a microscopic difference but again certainly not enough to justify the price difference, Just my opinion.
I absolutely agree with Amsoil for transmission fluid. It is almost a miracle fluid, but for an engine, it really doesn't matter. I ran the cheapest thing I can find. The most important factor is that you change the oil regularly. An engine ran with conventional oil changed every 3-5k will last as long as an Amsoil engine.
Good effort but unfortunately a waste of your time and money.This type of test proves nothing.Ive used Amsoil since the late 70s and it’s performance has been flawless but I leave the oil in the engines.when I’ve had maintenance done machanics always comment the equipment is spotless clean and no apparent wear. By the way my lawnmower is 35 years old starts 1 or 2 pull change oil once a year and don’t have to check the level.
Its not a waste of time and money at all. This video isn't meant to hate on Amsoil. All this video says is, under these conditions the Mobil 1 lasted longer. The biggest thing to take away from this video is not to run your engines low on oil.
"I am angry my chosen boutique oil did not do better let me talk about how Amsoil has always been the best." Unless you have been inside thousands of engines and torn them down after identical use to measure everything you opinion is just an opinion. I have never seen Amsoil lubricants hurt or damage any engine they have been run in! Amsoil has had to pay out warraty claims though due to their filters a few times with their eAA line I think it was called of full flow spin one destroying Toyota 2AZFE engines. A Toyota 2AZFE for instance only has 3psi of oil pressure at idle so a restrictive full flow filter can not be used. Amsoil fixed that problem. Not talking about their bypass filter setup either. Back when engines had 25-35psi minimum at idle and 10+ psi on top of that for every 1000 rpms with bypass on most engnes being set some place between 66psi and 120psi you could play around a lot with viscosity and filtration with out issue. Those days are gone! I have looked at thousands of UOA and have never seen a huge difference between any of the name brand synthetic oil in normal daily driver use. Single or even low double digit changes in wear metals on a UOA is not significant. Todays engines are less tolerant of extended oil changes than engines of the past in spite of OEM's pushing out oil change intervals longer than ever before in history. Oil consumption today is due to piston and piston ring designs not the oil being used. Extended oil change intervals increase the chances of pluging up oil control ring drain holes but are not the cause of it. If you have an engine with this design flaw Amsoil oil will not prevent it or fix it!
Just want to say thank you I appreciate people going out of their way to make videos like this because you do learn a lot about different oils and filters
Mobil1 uses alkylated napthalene base stock oil which is superior than pao + ester base oil. I used to be an amsoil fan but after learning so much about oil, I realized Mobil1 is really the best with superior technology. Sometimes one really needs to learn more about chemistry and material science to judge an oil, not just by looking at spec sheet.
Amsoil lasted longer than Mobile 1 in an engine with all the oil drain out, showing better protection adherence to the metal than Mobil 1. Each should look catastrophic, Amsoil just kept the same catastrophe from happening two minutes longer which pretty damn impressive. 👍
You ran both engines dry in an attempt to see if the damage was different in one to the other ? If they failed because they had no oil, the wear and failure points are going to be similar. Not sure what you expected out of this.
I agree. A manufacturer recommended schedule and the correct oil type/weight is the most Important part. Most of this oil stuff is personal preference in my opinion. But we are looking to see if there are any differences between them.
When you crank over your engine before it starts up you have no oil pressure. Those few moments, especially on the top end, Will eventually add up. Running the system with no little oil shows how strong the oil is.
my son used to race Motocross and we used to used good 2 stroke oil but we Burnet piston until we start to used bel Ray 2 stroke oil and we never problem with engine
I havent been keeping abreast of all different oils but from what I can remember amsoil is a synthetic oil and mobil 1 is a mineral oil made using a "synthetic" process. I think amsoil took mobil 1 to court because it is not a real sythetic oil.
@@steverugerguy9606 yup, Castrol came out with their group III hydrocracked highly refined petroleum base oils and called them synthetic when in the truest sense of the word they were not. So Mobil said hey wait a minute that's not really synthetic. In the end it was determined that the oil was changed enough to call it synthetic and Castrol got their way. So now synthetic is just a marketing term and we don't really know what we are getting. It's been found that some of the so called full synthetics contain large amounts of group II conventional petroleum oils in them. Of course all oils are blends of different components, but you can kind of tell by the price. Just how much synthetic do you think you are getting for a few bucks a quart. Because premium synthetic components are expensive.
you should test the royal purple you used then the recommended oil that BMW recommends for the e46 you have which is a 5w30 castrol or a 10w60 Castrol TWS (recommended for e46 m3) to see what the difference between the two.
As much as everyone enjoys the oil debate - I think the bigger liability in modern cars with higher hp is the transmission… many manufacturers are really not clear on automatic transmission fluid changes and dealerships are all over the place with some giving the whole “it’s a sealed transmission” speech… As far as motor oil goes - my 370z does fine with M1 3-4k oil change intervals and I pretty much baby the car
It would be interesting to see if having something like 10 vs 10 engines with (brand vs brand), average them and see if the failure times of the engines are different significantly. Sample of 1 does not prove much. i mean if you test 10 engines of mobil 1 they could conceivably fail in a wide range of times. I'd pitch in if you did a go fund me on 10 mobil1 vs 10 amsoil :) for science!
A better sample would include more, absolutely. I just dont have the budget to test that many. I have a Patreon but no one seems interested in helping so far.
did both engines have the exact same connecting rod journal clearances? would like to see this repeated with 30 engines of each oil. in order to come to a conclusion you need to be able to demonstrate results repeated over and over, right?
Amsoil and Mobil 1 are both excellent products and have used both. the general thing is you never want to run an engine without oil under any circumstances, and no matter which brand you use the oil will get dirty over time. it is up to the owners if they want to spend the extra bucks for a premium oil like Amsoil or Royal Purple. personally I think it is foolish to use ANY oil for 20 or 25K intervals. whatever amount of time or money that is saved is not worth the risk of damage.
Sometimes failures in engines has nothing to do with the oil. If you race a bike once every week or month it needs to be rebuilt every so often. Things break, shit happens. Most name brand oils now days are of good quality. Driving conditions and maintenance is the key. Use what you like and take care of it. But if you run a vehicle like it's a race car one day it's going to fail no matter what oil is in it. Every oil on the market has had catastrophic failure to the engines they were in. Not one company can claim they never had a engine failure wile using their brand of oil. NONE Not saying some are not better than others but I'm saying most are good quality and engines don't last forever no matter whats in it.
Tenza Motorsports I almost thought th same thing as Paul here but then I got to thinking the way you set this up with you warming them up and emptied them it tests like all sorts of stuff. If the oil is too thin it’ll drain everything. If it doesn’t stick to the metal it would also be all gone. Good testing bro. Keep it up👍
I would suggest to test Royal Purple. That is the oil you personally use on your cars and it seems to be a great oil, also to see if Royal Purple is worth the extra cost compared to other oils.
The difference in these 3 oils is amsoil is a 100% synthetic and will break down at a slower rate than the other 2. As far as there ability to lubricate when oil is not broke down would be similar.
7s29 Most of syntetic oils out there are GL 4. Amsoil uses Mobile Exxon base. Don’t be fooled. The question is,how come them performance oils like Amsoil or Red line have no API sertification? Are they to cheap to pay the licence?
Why should Amsoil pay somebody to say their oil is good stuff when independent testing has already proven it surpasses the licensing body's specifications? The same goes for paying GM for a Dexos certification. It's just bribing them for an honorable mention in print.
So what I got from this test is Amzoil would be great for racing but not for everyday driving. Mobile one would Provide a longer lasting coating on parts for everyday start up. If I'm wrong please someone tell me🤷
Where both engines broke in with normal break in or convetional oil before the test? As any new engine should be broke in with a break in oil ams oil even says never to use a synthetic to break in a engie
I run the recommended Honda oil in my dirt bike. If you want a safe oil to use I'd suggest looking up the manufacturer recommended oil. If you want to try something new, I'd continue to do research. I can't really comment on motorbike specific oils. I don't have enough experience yet.
Ryou Tenza Motorsports - Make sure you test the Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum, NOT the run-of-the-mill Pennzoil Platinum! There is a significant difference between the two!
Would like to see these German made oils duke it out compared with the US oils. Fuchs Pro C3 5w30 and Ravenol VMP 5w30. Seem to have very good protection qualities.
Harley Davison guarantees your engine as long as you use their own brand oil or Amsoil I use Mobil on my Harley Davidson Ram2007 5.9 Cummins and my wife’s 2013 Nissan Sentra believe it or not when i started to use Amsoil on my wife Nissan after couple hundred miles is stated to give her better gas mileage it went from 33 mpg to 36.7 mpg on my Harley the temperature went down like 4 degrees cooler I tested it with my snap on laser thermometer and on my Ram it also gave me better hair mileage like 1.7 almost 2
No that's not the way to test! If you drain the oil out n run it what do you think is gonna happen? I have seen small engines with failed rod bearings like that many times. The rods are always the first to go. Oh and what oil did you use beforehand, auto oil? AMSOIL makes an excellent small engine oil you know! Idk if Mobil even makes a small engine oil, the formulation requirements for a hot running hard working small engine are much different that a liquid cooled automotive engine you know.
I don’t think you understand the test. Wether or not the oils are designed for the engines or not doesn’t matter they both went through the same test. Of course they aren’t designed to run with extremely low low oil. I’m not testing small engine oil. I’m testing normal engine oil. If I wanted to know the best small engine oil I would have used small engine oil. Both of these engines were brand new and had only used the oil being tested
All you really have to do is take a piece of Emery cloth and clean the Rod journal on the crank and a piece of steel wool and clean the cap and the rod itself and it will go back together and be free I've done it several times on small engines that have been run without oil to the point of seizing up I let them cool off add oil back to the crankcase take the pull start side cover off and use a pipe wrench to spin it over to break it free and allow the oil to get in between the rod and crank Journal
Tenza Motorsports He is correct don’t throw the engines away you will have a bunch of good engines when you are done with just a little bit of work you will have a bunch of engines that have a lot of life left in them. You can even change the connecting rod which is a very cheap part and you will be up and running.
Was the oil supposed to coat the metal after drained?? I use Amsoil on my fleets with the older vans and cars running 400,000 to 700,000 miles. I keep them running with the oil tho.......
They used to have I think 7% ester witch ester sticks on metal, but I think Castrol changed the formula and I believe it doesn’t have ester anymore, theirs a reason why it’s cheap. Any oil with some ester will “cling to metal” as what Castrol is saying with Magnatec www.worldpac.com/pdfs/motul_SYNINAMcar08_v1.2-Colour.pdf That’s a link to what Motul says about group 3, 4 and 5 oils
Amsoil is a great oil but the price is highway robbery. I buy cheap synthetic oil but change every 2k oil and filter every 4500. At some point the garbage the filter can't catch get built up in the oil and also if you have unknown fuel dilution no oil will hold up long, changing often mitigates that possibility. I expect to get 300-500k at around 1/3-1=2 the cost of Amsoil. My take anyway. If you run Amsoil that's OK too, I just have a different perspective.
@@VILLEGAS76able I've been thinking of using Ravenol in our expedition I currently use Liqui Moly though in my Titan and will order Miller's oil for the transmission soon made in the UK.
I'd just stay with Motul as it is a 100 percent synthetic and most European oils have to follow higher standards for labeling unlike the US where anything can be labeled a full synthetic.
The tolerances on these engines compared to each other is tighter than finding two random cars on the used market to do the same test. That’s why we did it this way. Unless we wanted to get two perfectly identical new car engines. As for the number of times the test should be performed. Yes the number should be closer to 20. But we don’t have that kind of budget here. So all I can say it. Your car only has one engine. We only did one test.
Tenza Motorsports that would be great. The new Shell Rotella gas truck oil would a great hit as well. Not many UA-cam videos out on it and I know a lot of people looking for folks to start testing it.
assuming we never drive a car that the oil ran out on us (very rare) which one protects it better under our normal driving ?? Amsoil does. many other independant tests shows mobil 1 is average at best (actually less) for its competing brands. if you car runs dry, 2-3 mins more when you dont know, aint saving you engine.. but normal long life driving, many brands protect your engine better than Mobil oils. Pronect Fam guy tested many oils too & it was knocked out in first round of tests
He froze oil. Boiled it on a stove ground two pieces of metal together. None of that answers the question you were just asking about. This shows the performance of the oil in a very extreme condition. Ran in an actual motor. But it sounds like you have yourself sold on Amsoil from the start.
@@TenzaMotorsports because every other independant test on mobil 1 i have seen, its test results are on the shitty side, & amsoils is always the winner or 2nd place. i am sure most who watched this have seen the tests i am talking about, as you may have as well.
The problem with this test is these engines dont have an oil system that pumps oil an lubercates these parts its lubercated by splash. Amsoil is fare more superior i just changed my motor cycle oil from mobil 1 to Amsoil an im already seeing better start ups engine sounds smoother shifting is like butter!!!! Why i has hooked an became an amsoil dealer yesterday. Any body looking for the first real 100% synthetic oil hit me up. Amsoil only failed in this setting because 2 reasons 1st mobil1 is thiner even at same viscosity 2nd no oil pump to get Amsoil on that bearing just splashed on.
That’s the whole point of the test is no more oil is being added. Just the oil that is left on the surface. That’s all that will be protecting the surfaces.
Thats not true. We did a test to get a constant and the engine with no oil lasted less than 2 minuets. The Amsoil engine did in fact have oil on the bearings.
@@TenzaMotorsports amsoil viscosity is to thick to get get o. Those bearings from just splash. If you took apart the rod tyen soked it in othe oils for 24 hours you would have a different results.
Sorry, but thats just incorrect. Amsoil has very similar viscosity to the other oils I have test based on my Bench tests. ua-cam.com/video/RHk_fibP2wA/v-deo.html Both engines had ran for 4 hours on high a weeks before this torture test. The engines also had oil in them for about a week.
On my 3rd Jeep XJ with all 3 turning over 300k plus miles. Used mobile 1 in all my vehicles and never a internal failure. I change every 3,500 miles regardless of vehicle manufacturers recommendations. I won't knock Amsoil products because they're a proven quality brand in all applications. I will knock their ridiculous pricing though..
It's definitely not cheap but it's not that crazy. I pay $10.69 a quart. Very close to any boutique oil company. Schaffer, Torco, Motul is the same price. I was going to try Torco this time and do an oil analysis after but it's $21 a quart. $130 shipped for 6 Quarts. That's crazy to me. Amsoil Signature Series is almost half that.
In mechanical terms this test is no valid, I worked with those small engines for very long time and if you remove the cover you are removing the bearing witch keep centered the crankshaft, so without the side cover the engine wont spin when you pull the flying wheel because the crankshaft is crocked no because oil or engine damage, can be some damage there but is not the main reason why the engine dont spin.
The engine never ran with the side cover removed. It was ran 4 hours with new oil then ran the torture test. Engine was completely assembled the whole run time.
Thanks for watching!
Also make sure to check out
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/RHk_fibP2wA/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/wak8bnOBbM8/v-deo.html
I hope that next time you will try Petronize oils that carry a special technology to prevent friction and compare them with other oil companies
People should also use whats recommended for their engines and not go by brand for example u cant use synthetic on mazda rotary engines and nissan likes esters in their oil the 370 or 350 so motul works best on those and cars with flat tappet cams use valvoline vr racing oil people need to research what engine they have forget going for brands ferrari use shell helix ultra no mobil 1 or amsoil not those cars folks
I know people that tried mobil 1 and switched to castrol engine was quieter on castrol the valve train so going with brands cause someone said its the best is not true all motors like different oil amsoil wont be good for all engines but people believe google and the internet lol
I rum Amsoil in everything. I have 445k on my 7.3 . I have changed the oil 9 times. Filter at 25k . Oil n filter every 50k. Testing it with independent lab. It comes back same way. Still in spec. Run for 12k and re-sample. The motor is just as strong as ever. Replaced injectors at 385. Conventional oils are every 5k. That is 89 vs 9...money and time saved.
James Emmenecker Sr.
Wow, that’s crazy
But I like to have a reason to work on cars
I use Liqui Moly and change it between 5-7k miles which for an oil like this one is overkill but I find it a hassle to send back analysis and I can put that money to some other stuff.
@Andrew H yes but that is the reason for doing the oil analogy, that is the only way you can do something like that!
I Run Amsoil Signature series in everything as well. Car is a prius 407k miles! Runs perfect no noise or clatter , runs as good as new , change oil every 15k , I know its 25k oil, but I run 85 mph most of time. HD evolution engine 100k miles runs perfect, str8 50 in trans. Nothing better, mobil1 garbage, they spent millions on brainwashing. Run Amsoil!
Is that miles or kms? Thanks
The thing with the harbor freight motors is there’s no 2 the same, tolerances can be different, valve lash is never the same, motor timing etc
Nice name
yup we had 15 donated in shop in high school and all of them had different specs.
I was going to say the same thing.
It’s already been proven mobil 1 is an ever age oil and very overrated by the company and people who swear by it 😂
Exactly Blake, The two different oils in a High performance high revving engine, show no difference in wear, per nascar and F1 other than opinion of course.
I have a 2007 4Runner with over 260K miles and have always used Amsoil. It uses "0" oil between the 15K mile oil change. I have done this since the vehicle was 1 year old. Never had a failure of any kind.
😅🤣 that engine could last as long on other oils. Stop it
😂😂😂 it will work with out any thing
@@Big88Country 2007 Toyota’s can run to 300k miles with conventional castrol GTX.
My Camry uses less oil with Amsoil and just runs quiet and smooth like a sewing machine
What is your point? Is your 4Runner using the engines in this video? Sounds like your butt hurt because your chosen oil did not win? My family has owned Toyota's longer than you have been alive. I have seen them live long long lifes on Castrol GTX 20W50 and 3000 miles oil changes. I have also ran every brand of Synthetic oil available in the USA, a few that are only available in Europe and few only available in Asia. Run any synthetic brand like Mobil-1, PUP, Valvoline, Quaker State and change the oil every 6 months or 10K miles which ever comes first and that engine will never suffer an oil related failure!
A friend who built engines for short-track racing and also raced his own car, ran several different oils in his own motor until he found the one that showed the least wear on components, rod & main bearings, lifters & cam, and pistons/cylinder walls. This was before the current synthetics.
All I know is in regular life, I’ve got an E36 M3 that is run strictly on Mobil 1. The car now has 273,400 miles, uses a little less than a quart of oil in 5,000 miles, has no knocking or other unusual sounds. I use Mobil 1 in my 2018 4Runner and ALL my 4 cycle power equipment-zero failures. My 2006 4Runner had 237,000 miles when I traded it in, no oil consumption.
Hard to argue with these mileage numbers. This encourages me to stick with Mobil 1, as I was recently thinking about trying other oils. Maybe they are out there, but I have not found any documented cases, other than Mobil 1, being used for 250k miles with little to no wear. Thanks for your comment.
I have a yard tractor that is over 20 years old with a Kohler V twin. Gets used a lot when the grass is growing. All it has ever had in it is Mobil 1 15- 50 racing oil. Never ran it with no oil.
Not impressed I have a 2011 Dodge ram 3500 and now I 500 it now has 997000 miles on it I change oil every 10 to 12000 miles and I have used rotella 15 W-40. I also hauled travel trailers with it for a living so it's pulling a heavy load all the time
5w40 Mobil Delvac 1 in all my BMWs turbo applications and other twin turbo cars. Zero failures and no chain issues or anything
@@BBBYpsi 997k miles?
Mobil 1 always has the best pour point. As a Canadian this important in our long winters.
I use Vegetable oil. Best viscosity I've ever seen
Um, no, Amsoil Signature always has the best cold pour ability.
@@Trigger-xw9gq no, not always
Project Farm certainly disproved this. Amsoil always wins every test. This guy’s video is very suspect.
Shouldn’t this be called “LACK OF Amsoil vs. LACK OF Mobile one”?
There is very little left! Enough to get a lubricity result.
I’m just not going to comment, I’m going back to bed.
@@Thedirtylittlesecret lmfao
@@TenzaMotorsports I don't think any oil would stay in between the rod and crank with engine running, the oil would get slung out. The rod end just got hot and seized to the crank.
This is the same test I wanted to see done year's ago but everyone thought it was stupid and wasn't a real test glad I found this video
Oh I get plenty of comments on how it’s not a real test. Not going to stop me. It’s a legit test and I have real results
Most all small engines are built without rod or crank shaft bearings. Running a engine without oil really proves nothing. As soon as you start the engine, the oil left between the rod and crank is spun off. The aluminum rod then heats up until it seizes.
Specially doesn't prove anything in one of these cheap engines. None are the same.
Polishing the crank and replacing the rod would fix both. These little engines don't have a real oil system, just splash.
upside downdog right! Do it on a small engine with a spin on oil filter and pressurized oil system not a splash system. Those rods will have replaceable bearings
For engine oil I take it to a local dealer shop for the brand- they use a full synthetic Castrol or Valvoline, depending on driving west or east, do any free recalls or updates, and know what to look for that typically goes wrong with this model and year. For my 2 motorcycles, I change it myself and use half Valvoline regular 10w-40 and half Valvoline 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil, from Walmart. It gives me the best shifting smoothness and the firmest clutch feel. I change it when the shifting starts to get worse, since the same oil is in the engine, clutch and manual transmission. It is usually before the 7,500 miles in the owner manuals.
Having shops you can rely on and a maintenance schedule is key. Castrol and Valvoline are both very good brands! Thanks for the comment.
I got a Honda GX200 and run 10w 30W and it has ran every day for hours for over 3 years. They run a pump 5-6 days a week and the only down time is adding more fuel or travel time between locations. This is in cold and hot Texas summers so I would say Mobil 1 has done very well and Honda builds damn good engines.
The problem is, there is no way to know if the failure is due to oil or the differences in the engines themselves. MAYBE if you did the same test for three rounds (six engines) or more to rule out engine differences, this would carry some weight.
You are correct in pointing out that a larger sample set would yield more definitive results. I would love to have the money to perform such test but that not the case. I felt this test would at least give an idea of the oils performance using a real engine instead of a simulator based test. Thanks for the comment.
I'm not sure you are testing oil quality since there wasn't any.
oil impregnates metal even when removed from a motor the residual oil continues to lubricate not for very long but that's the point of the test , some very special oil lubricants when removed can and have done continue to lubricate engine bearings for many hundreds of miles
Barry Blundell oh really? Go on, please tell us which “special lubricants” you speak of?
Amsoil all day, switching both my cars' oil and fluids tomorrow
Do it
Amsoil is not bad oil.??????
@@craigbadder4372 no its the best apparently all the info I found says so I switched from mobile 1 it's pricy but I'm trying to get 300k+ out of my truck an expensive oil change every 4-5 months is better on the pocket than a new truck payment lol
Amsoil signature series for the win
@@craigbadder4372 It's bullet proof! Just the best you can get! Use the oil finder for the right viscosity.
When Castrol was first introduced, they.ran a test similar to this versus so me other oil. They ran both engines for a period of time, then drained both and ran them dry. The engine had the other oil seized after a short while, the one with C astrol ran for a very long while after being drained. The main reason I have since used Castrol I would like to see you run this test using Castrol.
.
Unfortunately all oil have been changed since.
Castrol most likely is better oil people are brainwashed with amsoil
What a waste of engine parts. Doesn’t prove anything with no oil. What exactly is the point?
There is oil. Just very very little. It’s a lubricity test. It’s not a waste. I got good solid results from this test. If you need more explanation on what is being tested here I can do that
Many tests just like this were done in the 70s and 80s with engines treated with slick 50.
The engines with slick 50 just kept on running.
I’m still with amsoil, if you would add just a little bit of dura lube to any of those you would be over 10 minutes run time on both engines
100 percent, test on anything
I won 6 road racing championships riding Yamaha motorcycles. I was two time national champion, AMA, and, WERA. I switched to Amsoil. I had my first catastrophic engine failure using Amsoil. I woke up two days later in the hospital in plaster. six weeks later when I was able to, I took the engine apart, I had my very first Piston seizure, both cylinders using Amsoil.. I have both pistons and the helmet I was wearing that day which has three cracks in it, and the face shield is melted from sliding on the asphalt. I have them on display in my garage. That was the end of my road racing days After eight successful years ...
by the way. Since Amsoil first came out, I have been using it in my cars and trucks. I change the oil once a year. I’ve never had a mechanical internal part fail on any of my vehicles for over 30 years. Right now in my ram 1500 hemi, I am using mobile one and Purolator oil filters..
The federal government, the US Army, the Marines, use mobile one in their multi million dollar tanks. Chevy Corvettes came from the factory with mobile one in them at one time, maybe they still do, some Ferraris come from the factory with mobile one. i’ve often wondered how a new car could come with mobile one in the crank case because, the rings need to be seated my honing themselves in against the crosshatch marks on the cylinder bore‘s. The film strength of mobile one would prevent that matching of the parts by running the engine because of it film strength..
they also use mobile one in equipment at NASA.
ever wonder why all these little companies take a.m. at the big boys/namely/mobile one?
it’s actually reassuring to see that mobile one is the main target of these other companies attempting to knock mobile one off the top spot. They always claim to be better than or as good as mobile one. I’m actually grateful to these other companies for reassuring me that, Mobile one is still the on top..
Any multi weight oil is partially synthetic.. The wider the spread between the winter weight numbers, such as 10W-30 versus, 10 W 60, the wider the gap, the more polymers have been added in the additives package..
there have been a few gimmick oils over the decades. There are used to be the stuff called Arco graphite. It was black from the graphite in the oil. The problem was, the oil filter would filter out the graphite and would actually block the filter, and it would run on bypass..
then there was that stuff called slick 50.. same thing, solid particulates in the oil that the filter will take out, and it blocks the filter in the meantime
How about whynns friction proofing( spelling). that stuff was over 94% pure kerosene
then there was STP. Do you know what that is, it is refined crude oil with no additives yet. It is the building block from which they create multi weight oils with additives like anti-foaming agent, anti-corrosive agents, polymers ,STP is the place you start when you are making oil. He start with refined crude oil that has no additives. That is what STP is.. when it’s hot, it is like water, when it’s cold, it would take an hour to pour one can into your engine if it’s below zero. It is not stable at all. I don’t remember what they used to claim it did for your engine, but it was a big seller..
There’s a lot of gimmicks hot there
Cool to see the insides of the engines.
Right? It’s fun to tear them down
This Test is good but because you waited for both engines to seize they will both have similar levels of damage and then this teardown is not useful. Maybe running the engines on high load and below minimum oil level with two oils will demonstrate a long-term comparison with different oils when they are strained their hardest.
Great comment! I will explain my reasoning better in the next versus video I do. I tried to explain the best I could in earlier videos but I keep getting questions. So keep an eye out for that video, I will answer your question.
Nowadays... the engine design is so subtle and clearance is soo tight. Take a look at how many kinds of liqui moly engine oil we have... They are all designed for specific engine/brand. you can't just say good or bad through a different single-cylinder engine and do the basic test...but watching the test is still interesting
That’s why when I first started this I told everyone the results are subjective. I’m not going to say one is better than another. You need to find out for yourself. What I’m doing is just adding information and my findings so people can better decide.
If you do a bearing scar test, where the oil is tested in a bath, not how well it bonds to the metal after drained, Amsoil still has the smallest wear scar. As soon as there's something with more protection, I'll run that.
Exactly
I've always ran Mobil 1 4T racing oil in my CBR600RR, I switched to Amsoil by recommendations from other guys at the track. I ran Amsoil for a season and after cracking the case at the end of the season I saw absolutely no difference in wear, for me I cannot justify a 100$ oil change VS a 60$ oil change. Maybe there is a microscopic difference but again certainly not enough to justify the price difference, Just my opinion.
I absolutely agree with Amsoil for transmission fluid. It is almost a miracle fluid, but for an engine, it really doesn't matter. I ran the cheapest thing I can find. The most important factor is that you change the oil regularly. An engine ran with conventional oil changed every 3-5k will last as long as an Amsoil engine.
Good effort but unfortunately a waste of your time and money.This type of test proves nothing.Ive used Amsoil since the late 70s and it’s performance has been flawless but I leave the oil in the engines.when I’ve had maintenance done machanics always comment the equipment is spotless clean and no apparent wear. By the way my lawnmower is 35 years old starts 1 or 2 pull change oil once a year and don’t have to check the level.
Its not a waste of time and money at all. This video isn't meant to hate on Amsoil. All this video says is, under these conditions the Mobil 1 lasted longer. The biggest thing to take away from this video is not to run your engines low on oil.
Tenza Motorsports but another thing to take away from this would be the Mobil clings to metal better than scamsoil lol
"I am angry my chosen boutique oil did not do better let me talk about how Amsoil has always been the best." Unless you have been inside thousands of engines and torn them down after identical use to measure everything you opinion is just an opinion. I have never seen Amsoil lubricants hurt or damage any engine they have been run in! Amsoil has had to pay out warraty claims though due to their filters a few times with their eAA line I think it was called of full flow spin one destroying Toyota 2AZFE engines. A Toyota 2AZFE for instance only has 3psi of oil pressure at idle so a restrictive full flow filter can not be used. Amsoil fixed that problem. Not talking about their bypass filter setup either. Back when engines had 25-35psi minimum at idle and 10+ psi on top of that for every 1000 rpms with bypass on most engnes being set some place between 66psi and 120psi you could play around a lot with viscosity and filtration with out issue. Those days are gone! I have looked at thousands of UOA and have never seen a huge difference between any of the name brand synthetic oil in normal daily driver use. Single or even low double digit changes in wear metals on a UOA is not significant. Todays engines are less tolerant of extended oil changes than engines of the past in spite of OEM's pushing out oil change intervals longer than ever before in history. Oil consumption today is due to piston and piston ring designs not the oil being used. Extended oil change intervals increase the chances of pluging up oil control ring drain holes but are not the cause of it. If you have an engine with this design flaw Amsoil oil will not prevent it or fix it!
Just want to say thank you I appreciate people going out of their way to make videos like this because you do learn a lot about different oils and filters
I really appreciate you taking the time to comment! I hope my content is entertaining and informative. Stick around to see more.
Mobil1 uses alkylated napthalene base stock oil which is superior than pao + ester base oil. I used to be an amsoil fan but after learning so much about oil, I realized Mobil1 is really the best with superior technology. Sometimes one really needs to learn more about chemistry and material science to judge an oil, not just by looking at spec sheet.
I use Redline for my Corvette after a failure on the track with Mobil 1. No problems after five years.
What exactly happened that made it fail?
Are you sure it was the oil?
Amsoil is probably the best.
But I'll stick to royal purple and penzoil which are right up there with it.
There are so many good oils out there. Just gotta find what fits your preference best!
@@TenzaMotorsports Here's a question. How do you develop a preference? What things do you consider when deciding which oil to prefer?
@@ads1035 Whatever daddy used, I’m sure 🙄
I'd like to see Castrol. They say it's 10x on wear protection. Let's find out.
Amsoil lasted longer than Mobile 1 in an engine with all the oil drain out, showing better protection adherence to the metal than Mobil 1. Each should look catastrophic, Amsoil just kept the same catastrophe from happening two minutes longer which pretty damn impressive. 👍
You ran both engines dry in an attempt to see if the damage was different in one to the other ? If they failed because they had no oil, the wear and failure points are going to be similar. Not sure what you expected out of this.
The engines were not dry. They are very low. There is still oil on the surfaces. The results are very close to what we were expecting
Which Amsoil oil did u use? Amsoil has two types
I used Amsoils 100% synthetic signature series.
@@TenzaMotorsports What wt oil was used for this test?
Amsoil vs Royal purple wath is the best ? Thank's
Test Castrol edge 10w 30. That's what I like. The black bottle
Thanks for the suggestion!
Do joe Gibbs vs amsoil
Engine last for years .You can use any brand of engine oil.synthetic or conventional.change oil on schedule.PERIOD
I agree. A manufacturer recommended schedule and the correct oil type/weight is the most Important part. Most of this oil stuff is personal preference in my opinion. But we are looking to see if there are any differences between them.
Absolutely!
Synthetic oils are proven to reduce wear over conventional oils, increase fuel mileage, etc..
I'm trying to understand how this test correlates with engine longevity under normal circumstances
When you crank over your engine before it starts up you have no oil pressure. Those few moments, especially on the top end, Will eventually add up. Running the system with no little oil shows how strong the oil is.
@@TenzaMotorsports No little oil ? W d t m ?
my son used to race Motocross and we used to used good 2 stroke oil but we Burnet piston until we start to used bel Ray 2 stroke oil and we never problem with engine
I’ve heard good things about bel ray. They aren’t super easy to find local I have found.
Which specific Amsoil product did you use??
Signature series
I havent been keeping abreast of all different oils but from what I can remember amsoil is a synthetic oil and mobil 1 is a mineral oil made using a "synthetic" process. I think amsoil took mobil 1 to court because it is not a real sythetic oil.
Mobil 1 EP is 60 to 70% PAO according to their SDS. That is very good PAO percentage. The regular Mobil 1 is 30 to 40% PAO according to their SDS.
That was mobil 1 took castrol to court...mobil 1 supplies amsoil with base oil.
@@steverugerguy9606 yup, Castrol came out with their group III hydrocracked highly refined petroleum base oils and called them synthetic when in the truest sense of the word they were not. So Mobil said hey wait a minute that's not really synthetic. In the end it was determined that the oil was changed enough to call it synthetic and Castrol got their way. So now synthetic is just a marketing term and we don't really know what we are getting. It's been found that some of the so called full synthetics contain large amounts of group II conventional petroleum oils in them. Of course all oils are blends of different components, but you can kind of tell by the price. Just how much synthetic do you think you are getting for a few bucks a quart. Because premium synthetic components are expensive.
AMSOIL, MOBIL, MADE in USA 🇺🇲🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 💪💪💪💪💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸💯
What is your recommend for motor oil names????.which right oil for engine that want go 500 k miles?????.want save money not amsoil????
Get some oil designed for high mileage and run the oil brand the car manufacturer recommends.
@@TenzaMotorsports I drive 08 impala ls 98 k miles.i was thinking buying quaker state oil.
Royal Purple vs Redline or
Amazon synthetic oil or Costco synthetic oil take your pic regarding synthetics oil
On my list!
you should test the royal purple you used then the recommended oil that BMW recommends for the e46 you have which is a 5w30 castrol or a 10w60 Castrol TWS (recommended for e46 m3) to see what the difference between the two.
Royal Purple will be tested in the future
Royal purple is average at best, very overrated like mobil 1
My question is which AMSOIL? There is an oil for every application...so which one did you use.
See part 1. ua-cam.com/video/RHk_fibP2wA/v-deo.htmlsi=2Bz6dJiE7pC-Vrt-
Running an engine without oil is not a test of anything but stupidity.
Your comment only tells me you didn’t pay attention to the test parameters. Please watch carefully before commenting.
As much as everyone enjoys the oil debate - I think the bigger liability in modern cars with higher hp is the transmission… many manufacturers are really not clear on automatic transmission fluid changes and dealerships are all over the place with some giving the whole “it’s a sealed transmission” speech…
As far as motor oil goes - my 370z does fine with M1 3-4k oil change intervals and I pretty much baby the car
You have to test Bardahl oil additive or their motor oil
Best oil additive ive seen is made by lubegard not many know but lubegard is oem approved and even their tranny additive is the best in the industry
What Amsoil were you running in that engine? Was there oil in the engine when u were running them?
ua-cam.com/video/RHk_fibP2wA/v-deo.html
It would be interesting to see if having something like 10 vs 10 engines with (brand vs brand), average them and see if the failure times of the engines are different significantly. Sample of 1 does not prove much. i mean if you test 10 engines of mobil 1 they could conceivably fail in a wide range of times. I'd pitch in if you did a go fund me on 10 mobil1 vs 10 amsoil :) for science!
A better sample would include more, absolutely. I just dont have the budget to test that many. I have a Patreon but no one seems interested in helping so far.
@@TenzaMotorsports Thank you for doing this anyway man this is quality content you tube needs instead of he said /she said opinions
did both engines have the exact same connecting rod journal clearances?
would like to see this repeated with 30 engines of each oil. in order to come to a conclusion you need to be able to demonstrate results repeated over and over, right?
I would love to do this over and over but I don’t have the budget to do 30 engines.
I hope some could test Amzoil Vs Totachi oil
Amsoil and Mobil 1 are both excellent products and have used both. the general thing is you never want to run an engine without oil under any circumstances, and no matter which brand you use the oil will get dirty over time. it is up to the owners if they want to spend the extra bucks for a premium oil like Amsoil or Royal Purple. personally I think it is foolish to use ANY oil for 20 or 25K intervals. whatever amount of time or money that is saved is not worth the risk of damage.
Use mazola or Crisco pure canola next time!!
Go try ELF Evolution Fultech fe 5w30 vs royal purple. Just add 100ml some E.T sintoflon. Then try it...
Sometimes failures in engines has nothing to do with the oil. If you race a bike once every week or month it needs to be rebuilt every so often. Things break, shit happens. Most name brand oils now days are of good quality. Driving conditions and maintenance is the key. Use what you like and take care of it. But if you run a vehicle like it's a race car one day it's going to fail no matter what oil is in it. Every oil on the market has had catastrophic failure to the engines they were in. Not one company can claim they never had a engine failure wile using their brand of oil. NONE
Not saying some are not better than others but I'm saying most are good quality and engines don't last forever no matter whats in it.
You didn’t show the torture test!
ua-cam.com/video/wak8bnOBbM8/v-deo.html
These tests are actually meaningless since no oil is designed to protect an engine like that and Amsoil makes no claims like that.
I'm not testing any claims made by any company. This was to test lubricity mainly. The data sheet shows the thicker oil lasting longer.
Tenza Motorsports I almost thought th same thing as Paul here but then I got to thinking the way you set this up with you warming them up and emptied them it tests like all sorts of stuff. If the oil is too thin it’ll drain everything. If it doesn’t stick to the metal it would also be all gone. Good testing bro. Keep it up👍
Absolutely! This tests all of my bench tests in an engine based experiment. It tests lubricity, viscosity, and oil retention.
Shows film strength on the oil. If you put motorkote in it I bet the engine would of ran 30 minutes with no oil after treating it with motorkote
I would suggest to test Royal Purple. That is the oil you personally use on your cars and it seems to be a great oil, also to see if Royal Purple is worth the extra cost compared to other oils.
It’s all to come! I have many plans with royal purple
Royal purple is also overrated
The difference in these 3 oils is amsoil is a 100% synthetic and will break down at a slower rate than the other 2. As far as there ability to lubricate when oil is not broke down would be similar.
Schaeffer oil is where its at! 🏁💯
Schaeffer’s for the win. Those that build em know…..
Try Liqui Moly Molygen. You will be surprised. However the oil needs to run in the engine for a while, and settle in.
I run them for 4 hours on high. Should be long enough
Can you test Liqui Moly synthetic 5w30 it's a very popular European brand I use in my BMW.
I have a quart of it
Bmw oil is not enough higher standard quality oil.not good enough protection oil.
I don't understand.You haven't show running both engines until failure?????
Sooooooo.... which oil won???
Overall, the mobil 1
HAVE TO USE OIL FOR AIR COOLED ENGINES NOT LIQUID COOLED ENGINES WHICH RUN AT A LOWER TEMP. USE AMSOIL SMALL ENGINE OIL.
Try Pennzoil Ultra , a true full synthetic oil, like Amzoil and Mobile one.
Pennzoil is the next one I’m testing!
Amsoil is grade 4, the rest grade 3.
@@7s29 yes you are correct that's why uts better
7s29 Most of syntetic oils out there are GL 4. Amsoil uses Mobile Exxon base. Don’t be fooled. The question is,how come them performance oils like Amsoil or Red line have no API sertification? Are they to cheap to pay the licence?
Why should Amsoil pay somebody to say their oil is good stuff when independent testing has already proven it surpasses the licensing body's specifications? The same goes for paying GM for a Dexos certification. It's just bribing them for an honorable mention in print.
So what I got from this test is Amzoil would be great for racing but not for everyday driving. Mobile one would Provide a longer lasting coating on parts for everyday start up. If I'm wrong please someone tell me🤷
Where both engines broke in with normal break in or convetional oil before the test? As any new engine should be broke in with a break in oil ams oil even says never to use a synthetic to break in a engie
Whether that’s the case or not, that wouldn’t matter. Since all engines were tested under the same parameters, they are all identical conditions.
Which engine oil is good for motorbike motor
? I come from Vietnam
I run the recommended Honda oil in my dirt bike. If you want a safe oil to use I'd suggest looking up the manufacturer recommended oil. If you want to try something new, I'd continue to do research. I can't really comment on motorbike specific oils. I don't have enough experience yet.
Supertech and Pennzoil Platinum would be interesting!!
I was hoping to do super tech. I have a poll up right now and everyone is voting pennzoil and valvoline
I pulled the valve cover on my FIAT at 44k miles and perfectly clean. No varnish or sludge. Only used Pennzoil Platinum since new. 5w-40.
Ryou Tenza Motorsports - Make sure you test the Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum, NOT the run-of-the-mill Pennzoil Platinum! There is a significant difference between the two!
Can you test Castrol edge black bottle 5w-30 Vs mobil 1 5w-30 Thanks subscribed.
Well we’ve already done Mobil 1, so we aren’t going to test it again. Castrol is on my list! The next two we are doing is Super Tech vs Pennzoil
Kirkland verses amsoil signature..👆👆
Would like to see these German made oils duke it out compared with the US oils. Fuchs Pro C3 5w30 and Ravenol VMP 5w30. Seem to have very good protection qualities.
Test rotella with added bit of dura lube
Ah, lock up. Just like Microsoft Windows.
Amen
What was the mother drug that started doing such test ?
Harley Davison guarantees your engine as long as you use their own brand oil or Amsoil I use Mobil on my Harley Davidson Ram2007 5.9 Cummins and my wife’s 2013 Nissan Sentra believe it or not when i started to use Amsoil on my wife Nissan after couple hundred miles is stated to give her better gas mileage it went from 33 mpg to 36.7 mpg on my Harley the temperature went down like 4 degrees cooler I tested it with my snap on laser thermometer and on my Ram it also gave me better hair mileage like 1.7 almost 2
Waow nice feedback o Amsoil..im using also amsoil signature series on my diesel truck much smoother. I want to try Mobil delvac
Very nice!
No that's not the way to test! If you drain the oil out n run it what do you think is gonna happen? I have seen small engines with failed rod bearings like that many times. The rods are always the first to go. Oh and what oil did you use beforehand, auto oil? AMSOIL makes an excellent small engine oil you know! Idk if Mobil even makes a small engine oil, the formulation requirements for a hot running hard working small engine are much different that a liquid cooled automotive engine you know.
I don’t think you understand the test. Wether or not the oils are designed for the engines or not doesn’t matter they both went through the same test. Of course they aren’t designed to run with extremely low low oil. I’m not testing small engine oil. I’m testing normal engine oil. If I wanted to know the best small engine oil I would have used small engine oil. Both of these engines were brand new and had only used the oil being tested
All you really have to do is take a piece of Emery cloth and clean the Rod journal on the crank and a piece of steel wool and clean the cap and the rod itself and it will go back together and be free I've done it several times on small engines that have been run without oil to the point of seizing up I let them cool off add oil back to the crankcase take the pull start side cover off and use a pipe wrench to spin it over to break it free and allow the oil to get in between the rod and crank Journal
If this actually works that’s great advice! In my case it would skew the results for my next two oils. That’s why I need two new ones.
Tenza Motorsports He is correct don’t throw the engines away you will have a bunch of good engines when you are done with just a little bit of work you will have a bunch of engines that have a lot of life left in them. You can even change the connecting rod which is a very cheap part and you will be up and running.
Was the oil supposed to coat the metal after drained?? I use Amsoil on my fleets with the older vans and cars running 400,000 to 700,000 miles. I keep them running with the oil tho.......
It coated the metal while it was running full. This just shows the wear protection compared to Mobil 1
Can you try European oils?
Magnatec 0w 20, claim of leaving parts coated with a film of protection for start up .
Anyway to test that ?
They used to have I think 7% ester witch ester sticks on metal, but I think Castrol changed the formula and I believe it doesn’t have ester anymore, theirs a reason why it’s cheap. Any oil with some ester will “cling to metal” as what Castrol is saying with Magnatec
www.worldpac.com/pdfs/motul_SYNINAMcar08_v1.2-Colour.pdf
That’s a link to what Motul says about group 3, 4 and 5 oils
Amsoil is a great oil but the price is highway robbery.
I buy cheap synthetic oil but change every 2k oil and filter every 4500. At some point the garbage the filter can't catch get built up in the oil and also if you have unknown fuel dilution no oil will hold up long, changing often mitigates that possibility. I expect to get 300-500k at around 1/3-1=2 the cost of Amsoil.
My take anyway. If you run Amsoil that's OK too, I just have a different perspective.
I like Amsoil, I use it in my taxi without any problems, can you test Schaeffer's and Motul
Has many miles are on your taxi? Motul and Schaefffer on on my list to test!
@@TenzaMotorsports over 200,000 miles, Amsoil actually fix the vvti cold start noise in my engine, I switch from 0w20 to 0w30,engine is running nice
@@TenzaMotorsports You should test Ravenol oil! Its a german oil which I've been using in my 2009, 2.7 Tacoma and I love it!
@@VILLEGAS76able I've been thinking of using Ravenol in our expedition I currently use Liqui Moly though in my Titan and will order Miller's oil for the transmission soon made in the UK.
I use motul for my 18 subaru wrx for last 2 months. I’m thinking of switching to amsoil vs mobil1 or staying with subaru oem. Thoughts?
Honestly I don’t think you can go wrong with either oil!
I'd just stay with Motul as it is a 100 percent synthetic and most European oils have to follow higher standards for labeling unlike the US where anything can be labeled a full synthetic.
@@bryanmartinez6600 i agree people are brainwashed with amsoil i find Castrol being good really depends on tne motor all motors like different oils
Include video of the cylinder wall and piston before and after the run.
We left It out of the video because there was no change. The crank and rod fail before the piston, rings, or cylinder wall become damaged.
Hi! Xado luxury drive black edition vs any oils
I’ll put it on the list
Tenza Motorsports thank you! 😊
You would need to run this test 10 times or so to have a decent sampling due to the varying tolerances in the chinese engines.
The tolerances on these engines compared to each other is tighter than finding two random cars on the used market to do the same test. That’s why we did it this way. Unless we wanted to get two perfectly identical new car engines. As for the number of times the test should be performed. Yes the number should be closer to 20. But we don’t have that kind of budget here. So all I can say it. Your car only has one engine. We only did one test.
Pennzoil Platinum vs Valvoline would be interesting.
I wanna do a brand name versus like a Super Tech or an O’Reilly
Tenza Motorsports that would be great. The new Shell Rotella gas truck oil would a great hit as well. Not many UA-cam videos out on it and I know a lot of people looking for folks to start testing it.
Penzoil would win. Being SynTech dissipates like water for some reason
Cool power oil is great for small engines with splash oiling
Rotella t6?
assuming we never drive a car that the oil ran out on us (very rare) which one protects it better under our normal driving ?? Amsoil does. many other independant tests shows mobil 1 is average at best (actually less) for its competing brands. if you car runs dry, 2-3 mins more when you dont know, aint saving you engine.. but normal long life driving, many brands protect your engine better than Mobil oils.
Pronect Fam guy tested many oils too & it was knocked out in first round of tests
He froze oil. Boiled it on a stove ground two pieces of metal together. None of that answers the question you were just asking about. This shows the performance of the oil in a very extreme condition. Ran in an actual motor. But it sounds like you have yourself sold on Amsoil from the start.
@@TenzaMotorsports because every other independant test on mobil 1 i have seen, its test results are on the shitty side, & amsoils is always the winner or 2nd place. i am sure most who watched this have seen the tests i am talking about, as you may have as well.
Well Amsoil lost in this test. And I went into this one completely unbiased. I don’t use either of these oils on my race cars.
@@rpmautoreviews9249 Amsoil is overpriced and overhyped.
Can we get test on the dura lube
The problem with this test is these engines dont have an oil system that pumps oil an lubercates these parts its lubercated by splash. Amsoil is fare more superior i just changed my motor cycle oil from mobil 1 to Amsoil an im already seeing better start ups engine sounds smoother shifting is like butter!!!! Why i has hooked an became an amsoil dealer yesterday. Any body looking for the first real 100% synthetic oil hit me up. Amsoil only failed in this setting because 2 reasons 1st mobil1 is thiner even at same viscosity 2nd no oil pump to get Amsoil on that bearing just splashed on.
That’s the whole point of the test is no more oil is being added. Just the oil that is left on the surface. That’s all that will be protecting the surfaces.
@@TenzaMotorsports point im making there was no amsoil on the bearing to begine with thats why it failed first
Thats not true. We did a test to get a constant and the engine with no oil lasted less than 2 minuets. The Amsoil engine did in fact have oil on the bearings.
@@TenzaMotorsports amsoil viscosity is to thick to get get o. Those bearings from just splash. If you took apart the rod tyen soked it in othe oils for 24 hours you would have a different results.
Sorry, but thats just incorrect. Amsoil has very similar viscosity to the other oils I have test based on my Bench tests.
ua-cam.com/video/RHk_fibP2wA/v-deo.html
Both engines had ran for 4 hours on high a weeks before this torture test. The engines also had oil in them for about a week.
On my 3rd Jeep XJ with all 3 turning over 300k plus miles. Used mobile 1 in all my vehicles and never a internal failure. I change every 3,500 miles regardless of vehicle manufacturers recommendations. I won't knock Amsoil products because they're a proven quality brand in all applications. I will knock their ridiculous pricing though..
It's definitely not cheap but it's not that crazy. I pay $10.69 a quart. Very close to any boutique oil company. Schaffer, Torco, Motul is the same price. I was going to try Torco this time and do an oil analysis after but it's $21 a quart. $130 shipped for 6 Quarts. That's crazy to me. Amsoil Signature Series is almost half that.
You should try Special Duty additive from Bardahl in any motor oil and these engines would have ran much longer
I will test additives in the future. For now I’m doing just the oil
In mechanical terms this test is no valid, I worked with those small engines for very long time and if you remove the cover you are removing the bearing witch keep centered the crankshaft, so without the side cover the engine wont spin when you pull the flying wheel because the crankshaft is crocked no because oil or engine damage, can be some damage there but is not the main reason why the engine dont spin.
The engine never ran with the side cover removed. It was ran 4 hours with new oil then ran the torture test. Engine was completely assembled the whole run time.
This more about manufacturing tolerance then oil.
Remove the pistons and show the damage if any
I might do that on the next set of engines