I have watched this video a few times and read all your explanations a couple of times and eventually could understand it, for the first time I could make sense. There was no other video on youtube to explain this as good as this video. Really high-value video.
At the three minute mark, why did you use the rebated edge of the offcut to mark one side and the the un rebated edge to mark the other? Wouldn’t that make the jamb sit past inside the dimensions reserved for the clearance?
How do you determine depth of the jamb (material width to use)? Equal to the depth of the stud wall plus the thickness of the intended wall coverings? More? Less?
Hi Susan, Standard doors in Australia are 2040m high and have stock sizes of 620, 670, 720, 770 and 820 wide. Most Standard door jamb have widths to suit a 70mm or a 90mm wide stud wall and allow for 10mm of lining on each side. Hope this helps.
G'day mate, sorry for the randon question for doors. How in the hell do I determine what is a left hand hung door or a right hand hung door. I'm confused by the websites I've viewed. Appreciate any help.
In this video you are putting the door jamb against the stud, so your frame is timber what if all around that rectangle is only brick and there is no timber stud? The how do you fit the jamb?
Basically, the same way except you have to put plugs into the brick work to take the screws or nails or use a masonry anchor system like dynabolts or loxins
So in case of brick wall we still call the door frame a door jamb right? The stud is only when we have a vertical member of the existant timber frame right?Because I see the builders call that door jamb a stud which is wrong, they should call it still a door jamb and not a stud
This is one type www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-6mm-x-5m-red-wall-plugs-roll_p2270017 and also these www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-7-x-35mm-green-wall-plugs-pack-of-25_p2260645
HI John Thanks for the feedback I hope it work for you. I use Google Sketchup to do the drawing and animation and then record it with Adobe Captivate. Buildsum
HI ***** If you are using a rebated jamb, which is the most common, then the style has to be rebated into the Head so that they fit together with out a large gap. If you look on a door that is already installed you should see that on the rebate side of the jamb it appears like it butts into the head however on the non rebated side you will see that the head has been trenched to accommodate the style. An out of plumb door frame is more the rule rather than the exception I'm afraid. Hope the video helped Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you so much to show me what a rebate is. Would you also explain whether the word stud and jamb are interchangeable? The builder called the timber to be put on brick a stud, which I think is wrong he should have called it a jamb still. right? And what is a single and a double? and why double? and why he wanted to come 5 mm to the front of the edge of the brick? and what should be the ideal thickness of a jamb timber? and why it is important
Yes, it should be called a Jamb. A single rebated jamb only has one rebate whereas the double has 2 doubles are generally only used as an external jamb as you will have the normal door as well as the screen door to fit into the jamb.
Nowadays, especially with project homes the plaster, is installed first and then the Jambs, however, it can be done the other way. Once the Jamb is in then the Architrave, this is the moulding that covers the gap between the Jamb and the frame. This video may help.ua-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=gvmKe2F5mEk
Before we even get to a jamb...The door frame shown is not typical. Header is not correct for most building codes. On the topic of the jamb. Pretty good animation.
hi john, wondering why the door jamb studs are not double studs in your show? And normally how much clearance need be left between door jambs and jamb studs. thanks.
Hi Roger Double studs are not required unless you have a large opening in a load bearing wall and this is not the case in my drawings. Normal clearance is approximately 10mm on either side of the jamb
Great instructional video. Thanks for the info. I will be putting this to good use in my basement. I was wondering what software you were using to create this video?
Do you mean the door Jamb The Jamb is a rebates section of timber Bunnings and the like usually sell them in sets, 2 styles and a head, they are generally around 18mm thick in the rebate and 30mm thick otherwise. They also come in different widths, approx 110mm to suit a 90mm stud wall and 90mm to suit a 70mm stud wall
Hi, do you have an email address so I can send you a picture to help explain the rebate? If you don't want to post it here please send it to buildsum@gmail.com
Great video and Info mate 👍 question: why bother notching out the header to take the stiles? Butt joint and a few Brad's, wouldnt that be fine? (Serious question, as im not seeing why it needs strong joinery, especially when everything is braded into the frame anyway)
Hi Robert the notching is mainly due to the rebate of the jamb material otherwise there would be a huge gap between the head and the style. I agree that notching for strength is not required. Personally i always glue and screw my jambs together as over time with the door movement these joints tend to want to open up if they are just nailed. Hope this helps.
Hi Buildsum - thanks for your videos - great stuff! Please could you tell me - what is the software package you use for this? It's great for an overall perspective. Thanks again, Nick
G'day thanks for the video, Was wondering if you could recommend some spirit level sizes for me as a new owner builder? What lengths would I need? Cheers for the videos, they're a great source of information.
Hi Mate, I guess it would depend on what work you are going to do yourself, for most of my career I only had a 1200mm level and that does pretty much everything you want pretty well. I would also have a small torpedo type level and if you are going to be installing your own door jambs a 2m long level is highly recomended. Hope this helps.
we need to get that measurement and then we need to go and get the the rebate of the circumference of the other weird and then we cut a u shaped into the bottom well of the carrascal then with the rebate you get your money back from Bunnings Warehouse
I am sorry I am a bit confused here because I do not understand the terminology very well. So when you have your brick wall and you want to put a door frame in there what is that called? A door frame, a stud or door jamb?
A rebate is a cut out or a step in a solid piece of timber Styles are the side, vertical member, Head is the horizontal member at the top Stud is a vertical member in a wall frame that runs from the top to the bottom of the wall
I have watched this video a few times and read all your explanations a couple of times and eventually could understand it, for the first time I could make sense. There was no other video on youtube to explain this as good as this video. Really high-value video.
Brilliant. Simple and easy to understand explanation.
Thanks, Aaron, I'm glad you like it.
High quality video. Go Aussie! 😊
Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like them
Great tutorial Thank You for making it possible for me to attempt this task
Thanks Mate, Glad it was helpful!
thanks dude!! as person doing a reno, i loved the idea about putting my premade jam on the floor then fixing it with the braces!
At the three minute mark, why did you use the rebated edge of the offcut to mark one side and the the un rebated edge to mark the other? Wouldn’t that make the jamb sit past inside the dimensions reserved for the clearance?
Hi, not on the rebate side of the material and that is the one that you have to think about when setting out for the door.
@@Buildsum thanks 😊
How do you determine depth of the jamb (material width to use)? Equal to the depth of the stud wall plus the thickness of the intended wall coverings? More? Less?
That's it in Australia 90 or 110mm are standards to suit the 70 or 90mm framing materials
What is the width and height of a cavity for a standard off the shelf door in Australia is, please and thank you?
Hi Susan, Standard doors in Australia are 2040m high and have stock sizes of 620, 670, 720, 770 and 820 wide. Most Standard door jamb have widths to suit a 70mm or a 90mm wide stud wall and allow for 10mm of lining on each side. Hope this helps.
Thank you
G'day mate, sorry for the randon question for doors. How in the hell do I determine what is a left hand hung door or a right hand hung door. I'm confused by the websites I've viewed. Appreciate any help.
Hi Mate, this might help
www.constructiondictionary.com.au/term/right-hand-door
or this video
ua-cam.com/video/ccUHt7_veOc/v-deo.html
@@Buildsum thanks Mate, appreciate the response...got it now! 🙂🤙
Great tutorial mate, exactly what I was looking for
If Robin Lewis approves, I know it will be good. (I plan to watch this evening.)
Excellent, clear and precise instructions that are easily to understand. Thanks.
Real good of you to take the time making this buddy. Thanks a lot 🤙
Thanks, Maurice, Glad you like it.
In this video you are putting the door jamb against the stud, so your frame is timber what if all around that rectangle is only brick and there is no timber stud? The how do you fit the jamb?
Basically, the same way except you have to put plugs into the brick work to take the screws or nails or use a masonry anchor system like dynabolts or loxins
Thank you, and what does a plug look like?
So in case of brick wall we still call the door frame a door jamb right? The stud is only when we have a vertical member of the existant timber frame right?Because I see the builders call that door jamb a stud which is wrong, they should call it still a door jamb and not a stud
This is one type
www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-6mm-x-5m-red-wall-plugs-roll_p2270017
and also these
www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-7-x-35mm-green-wall-plugs-pack-of-25_p2260645
Yes, they should be calling it a Jamb to my way of thinking, however, terminology changes depending on the area you are in so it may be a local thing.
HI John
Thanks for the feedback I hope it work for you.
I use Google Sketchup to do the drawing and animation and then record it with Adobe Captivate.
Buildsum
Extremely helpful and interesting. Thanks.
Thanks Bulwal, Glad you like it
HI *****
If you are using a rebated jamb, which is the most common, then the style has to be rebated into the Head so that they fit together with out a large gap. If you look on a door that is already installed you should see that on the rebate side of the jamb it appears like it butts into the head however on the non rebated side you will see that the head has been trenched to accommodate the style.
An out of plumb door frame is more the rule rather than the exception I'm afraid.
Hope the video helped
Thanks for the feedback.
How come you mark the centre and then measure out half the width of the measurement? How come you don't just mark the width from one end? Just curious
Thank you so much to show me what a rebate is. Would you also explain whether the word stud and jamb are interchangeable? The builder called the timber to be put on brick a stud, which I think is wrong he should have called it a jamb still. right? And what is a single and a double? and why double? and why he wanted to come 5 mm to the front of the edge of the brick? and what should be the ideal thickness of a jamb timber? and why it is important
Yes, it should be called a Jamb. A single rebated jamb only has one rebate whereas the double has 2 doubles are generally only used as an external jamb as you will have the normal door as well as the screen door to fit into the jamb.
I see so if you need to install two doors, like one screen door and one normal door you will put two rebates.
What are the stages of installing a door? First we put a door jamb, then we need to put plaster , what is the next stage? And what is an architrave?
Nowadays, especially with project homes the plaster, is installed first and then the Jambs, however, it can be done the other way. Once the Jamb is in then the Architrave, this is the moulding that covers the gap between the Jamb and the frame. This video may help.ua-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=gvmKe2F5mEk
Thank you so much. you are a fantastic teacher. The video link did not open, would you kindly resend it again?
Sorry try this one ua-cam.com/video/gvmKe2F5mEk/v-deo.html
Before we even get to a jamb...The door frame shown is not typical. Header is not correct for most building codes.
On the topic of the jamb. Pretty good animation.
hi john, wondering why the door jamb studs are not double studs in your show? And normally how much clearance need be left between door jambs and jamb studs. thanks.
Hi Roger
Double studs are not required unless you have a large opening in a load bearing wall and this is not the case in my drawings.
Normal clearance is approximately 10mm on either side of the jamb
THANKS
Nice one! Great job. Thanks!
Hi Nick
I use Google Sketchup to do the drawing and animation and then record it with Adobe Captivate.
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks for this great vid. Unlike many others, your clip actually shows the detailed cuts clearly without any superfluous rambling on. Thanks again!
Great instructional video. Thanks for the info. I will be putting this to good use in my basement. I was wondering what software you were using to create this video?
Thank you for the video what is the best thickness for a door stud. Bunnings has MDF DAR PRIMED 140x18mm 5.4 what do you suggest to get?
Do you mean the door Jamb
The Jamb is a rebates section of timber Bunnings and the like usually sell them in sets, 2 styles and a head, they are generally around 18mm thick in the rebate and 30mm thick otherwise. They also come in different widths, approx 110mm to suit a 90mm stud wall and 90mm to suit a 70mm stud wall
A carpenter told me MDF is not a good quality material to be used for door jambs, so what do you recommend as a good material?
I do not understand this very well. When you say the jamb is a rebated section of timber I get confused
MDF is ok but can't be used externally or in wet areas
Preprmed pine is good internally.
For external you would need meranti or similar
Hi, do you have an email address so I can send you a picture to help explain the rebate? If you don't want to post it here please send it to buildsum@gmail.com
Great video and Info mate 👍 question: why bother notching out the header to take the stiles? Butt joint and a few Brad's, wouldnt that be fine? (Serious question, as im not seeing why it needs strong joinery, especially when everything is braded into the frame anyway)
Hi Robert the notching is mainly due to the rebate of the jamb material otherwise there would be a huge gap between the head and the style. I agree that notching for strength is not required. Personally i always glue and screw my jambs together as over time with the door movement these joints tend to want to open up if they are just nailed.
Hope this helps.
@@Buildsumok, got it. Thanks for replying!
I'm curious as to how a door jamb level with rollers is used to check for plumb. Do you know or can you direct me? Thanks.
+Tony Raven Hi Tony im not sure what you mean by a 'door jamb level with rollers' can you please clarify.
+Buildsum - see here: www.krafttool.com/products/by-category/sands-level/specialty-levels/by-sku/SLMA78R
+Tony Raven OK no sorry never seen one of those before
Hi Buildsum - thanks for your videos - great stuff! Please could you tell me - what is the software package you use for this? It's great for an overall perspective.
Thanks again,
Nick
What is easy jamb?
Hi Sarah, sorry I have not heard this term.
These are what the builder used < I guess that is why I was so confused because I could not understand what he meant, possibly wrong.
In OZ, the frame and the jamb are seperate. So you would install the frame into the wall, plumb it and then nail in the jamb.
Would you kindly send the video link about architrave again , the first link did not open
ua-cam.com/video/gvmKe2F5mEk/v-deo.html
Fantastic. Such great videos! You are a very good teacher. Thank you so much for all these hard work and excellent videos.
G'day thanks for the video,
Was wondering if you could recommend some spirit level sizes for me as a new owner builder? What lengths would I need?
Cheers for the videos, they're a great source of information.
Hi Mate, I guess it would depend on what work you are going to do yourself, for most of my career I only had a 1200mm level and that does pretty much everything you want pretty well. I would also have a small torpedo type level and if you are going to be installing your own door jambs a 2m long level is highly recomended. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum thanks mate, appreciate the comment. Thanks for your videos and channel.
what does it mean flush with each other?
Flush means that the 2 faces or edges are in line with each other
Thank you very much
we need to get that measurement and then we need to go and get the the rebate of the circumference of the other weird and then we cut a u shaped into the bottom well of the carrascal then with the rebate you get your money back from Bunnings Warehouse
I am sorry I am a bit confused here because I do not understand the terminology very well. So when you have your brick wall and you want to put a door frame in there what is that called? A door frame, a stud or door jamb?
The timber that the door fits into would be the door jamb , the part of the wall that has the opening for the door would be the frame
Great, so is the door frame timber or do we call the brick wall door frame?
So do you have a double brick wall that you are putting the wall into or do you have a timber frame on the inside and brick on the outside?
I have a double brick wall
No timber yet, all is in there is just the brick.
Brilliant, thank you.
GOOD
I also do not understand the meaning of rebates, styles, head and stud?
A rebate is a cut out or a step in a solid piece of timber
Styles are the side, vertical member,
Head is the horizontal member at the top
Stud is a vertical member in a wall frame that runs from the top to the bottom of the wall
Now what is member?
A member is just any part of the jamb
Thank you for kindly answering my questions, Now I understand the terminology
hard to understanding the words as i am not from australia, second it seemed simple but the explanation was way too long, kind of didnt make sense.
GET TO THE POINT YOU TALK TO MUCH
:( I thought it was very good and succinct.