I love everything about this video. How do you pattern the pieces? Heck, how were you introduced into armouring? What practices did you use to get good?
I'm about to attempt to make a breastplate like this out of 16 gauge mild steel. Any advice before I start? Also, I'm assuming for polishing you sand it with 80 grit flap disk, but what happens after that?
I think the best advice I can give is to follow the historical examples as closely as you can while still keeping your own proportions in mind. As an example, after I made this breastplate I found that the plackart was too long and I'll have to trim that down, after looking at the example again I found that the proportions were off and that if I make the shape more similar the original I would avoid that problem altogether and simultaneously make it a better fit to me. So just think critically about the structure of the armor, why it was shaped in the way it was, why a component is the size it is, that sort of thing. One thing I like to do is try to draw the armor I'm going to make. That way I'm familiar with the shapes and the way it should fit the human body. As an added bonus sometimes I discover little things that I wouldn't have thought about beforehand, like rivet placement or a specific number of lames, the placement of straps or hinges, etc.. As far as polishing goes, usually I do start with the 80 grit flap disk yes, sometimes I bypass that altogether and go straight to something with a higher grit and use progressively finer grits as I go along and finally end with a very fine sandpaper by hand. Though the true "secret" to polishing is to planish the devil out of the surface. If it's already smooth from planishing, you can skip straight to higher grits and the subsequent polishing. On another note related to planishing, I would recommend polishing the face of the hammers you use, particularly the ones that will be used on the outside of the armor. This makes the process even more effective. Good luck with your project, I'm always here to answer questions.
I'd have to see if I still have the video files, but I've been doing some similar projects since this video that I am planning to make videos about as well in the near future. I did a l few videos on a closed helmet, which could be applicable to a sallet like this one, which could help :)
I'm going to attempt to add a visor to my open face sallet that has a shape very similar to this one you made. Do you have any tips and advice for making the visor?
My first attempt with a visor didn't go so well because the pivot points were too far up the side of the helmet, meaning that it couldn't open all the way or stay open. Another thing that I still have troubles with is that the whole thing is too flat in the front and hits my nose too often. Those were just the two things that I learned the hard way, I hope I helped a little, good luck!
Hello! In my understanding, the majority of faulds were attached with leather straps on the inside. Though later on when the faulds start extending onto the legs individually in the 16th century they often had sliding rivets. Hope this helps!
I've been working on a breastplate fairly similar to this one and I've run into a bit of a problem. The top of the breastplate, sort of around the collar, seems to be a bit too forward of that makes any sense. It's kind of like there is a gap between my collar bone and chest area and the top of the breastplate. Any advice on what I may be doing wrong here?
Hard to say without seeing it, but it could be that the whole thing isn't deep enough, like if you were to just bend the parts that go over your collarbones, then match the rest of the shape to that angle it would probably work. If you'd like to send me a picture of it, my email is thelivingmanuscript@gmail.com. I might be able to help you better that way.
@@halodude727 The bowl or 'the metal piece' in the middle of the shield is called a boss, depending on the style of the shield it is sometimes referred to as an umbo.
Essentially all I did was dish them to the same depth, then matched them up as best I could on a ball stake of some sort. Truth be told there are still some unsightly gaps between the two and the plackert is too long, so when I eventually remove the plackert to shorten it I'll probably use some vise-grips to hold it and the breastplate together so that I can hammer it over a smooth stake to make sure they fit nicely and there are no gaps.
definitely, I try to do the majority of the planishing process from the inside if I can help it. That's just putting the outside of a piece on the face of an anvil and using a rounded hammer to smooth it from the inside. Although with most pieces there will be a time when some sort of stake is at least good to have. I used to use a very polished railroad spike in a vice, still do for some work. Although it's possible to make a functional stake in some other ways, such as smoothing a trailer hitch ball and securing it to a stake somehow. I even used a hardwood ball jammed onto a steel pipe in a pinch. Plenty of options and ways around problems.
It's just a dedicated dishing form I made back in high school shop, all that's to it is a short section of steel pipe welded to a flat plate of steel. I heavily beveled the edge and it's been working out really well for me since then. I like it because I can get deeper shapes without hitting the bottom like most cast iron forms.
Thank you, that is correct though. I used a Chicago Electric gasless wire fed MIG welder. It's a low powered one which makes it ideal for this sort of welding with thinner metals.
Shall one have the same time to devote the attention of a smith from the 15th century meticulously as such. One: there is a contract, it is somebody's name on the line, not a mere leisure pursuit.
I was trained as a GMAW welder and worked in a factory as an apprentice for a while, though I haven't done that for a couple years, I'm afraid. I'm not part of the ACL since there doesn't seem to be an active group in my area, although I'm definitely interested in doing that style of fighting once my equipment is up to it.
Thank you! It's hard to say for sure how long it took since I worked on it on and off. Looking back at the video files it seems I made all these pieces here between June 6th and June 17th of last year, but I've done a few modifications since then. But naturally they could have been included in the initial building process.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You make it look so easy
Plastic Boy12 It's just from practicing, though it's a never ending process; I still have a lot of improvements I can make
I love everything about this video.
How do you pattern the pieces? Heck, how were you introduced into armouring? What practices did you use to get good?
My goodness that's a lot of work. And I so foolishly thought making maille was difficult.
its a disgrace that you only got 3690 followers ! ... you make a good job !
I'm about to attempt to make a breastplate like this out of 16 gauge mild steel. Any advice before I start? Also, I'm assuming for polishing you sand it with 80 grit flap disk, but what happens after that?
I think the best advice I can give is to follow the historical examples as closely as you can while still keeping your own proportions in mind. As an example, after I made this breastplate I found that the plackart was too long and I'll have to trim that down, after looking at the example again I found that the proportions were off and that if I make the shape more similar the original I would avoid that problem altogether and simultaneously make it a better fit to me. So just think critically about the structure of the armor, why it was shaped in the way it was, why a component is the size it is, that sort of thing. One thing I like to do is try to draw the armor I'm going to make. That way I'm familiar with the shapes and the way it should fit the human body. As an added bonus sometimes I discover little things that I wouldn't have thought about beforehand, like rivet placement or a specific number of lames, the placement of straps or hinges, etc.. As far as polishing goes, usually I do start with the 80 grit flap disk yes, sometimes I bypass that altogether and go straight to something with a higher grit and use progressively finer grits as I go along and finally end with a very fine sandpaper by hand. Though the true "secret" to polishing is to planish the devil out of the surface. If it's already smooth from planishing, you can skip straight to higher grits and the subsequent polishing. On another note related to planishing, I would recommend polishing the face of the hammers you use, particularly the ones that will be used on the outside of the armor. This makes the process even more effective.
Good luck with your project, I'm always here to answer questions.
holy shit thats awesome !
Sweet man! Great vid!!
I just got a Conquistador Helmet, and now I need ARMOR!
I know its been a couple of years but do you have a slower version of making the Sallet and the Gorget? thats my next build.
I'd have to see if I still have the video files, but I've been doing some similar projects since this video that I am planning to make videos about as well in the near future. I did a l few videos on a closed helmet, which could be applicable to a sallet like this one, which could help :)
soundtrack is banging
I'm going to attempt to add a visor to my open face sallet that has a shape very similar to this one you made. Do you have any tips and advice for making the visor?
My first attempt with a visor didn't go so well because the pivot points were too far up the side of the helmet, meaning that it couldn't open all the way or stay open. Another thing that I still have troubles with is that the whole thing is too flat in the front and hits my nose too often. Those were just the two things that I learned the hard way, I hope I helped a little, good luck!
Hi medieval manuscript, I’ve got a question, about making a fauld for the breastplate, how do I attach them? With sliding rivets or leather straps?
Hello! In my understanding, the majority of faulds were attached with leather straps on the inside. Though later on when the faulds start extending onto the legs individually in the 16th century they often had sliding rivets. Hope this helps!
how much expansion did you get on the steel while hammering. ive got a sheet of steel 3 mm thick so id like to make that thinner during hammering lol
I've been working on a breastplate fairly similar to this one and I've run into a bit of a problem. The top of the breastplate, sort of around the collar, seems to be a bit too forward of that makes any sense. It's kind of like there is a gap between my collar bone and chest area and the top of the breastplate. Any advice on what I may be doing wrong here?
Hard to say without seeing it, but it could be that the whole thing isn't deep enough, like if you were to just bend the parts that go over your collarbones, then match the rest of the shape to that angle it would probably work. If you'd like to send me a picture of it, my email is thelivingmanuscript@gmail.com. I might be able to help you better that way.
For whatever reason it never occured to me to use a welder. Would make things alot easier how the hell did they draw out such deep helms anyway?
look up the phrase "raising metal" or "raising a helmet" ect
it's the same way they make bowls or the metal piece in the middle of a round shield
@@halodude727 The bowl or 'the metal piece' in the middle of the shield is called a boss, depending on the style of the shield it is sometimes referred to as an umbo.
How did you go about matching the shape of the plackert to the upper part of the breastplate?
Essentially all I did was dish them to the same depth, then matched them up as best I could on a ball stake of some sort. Truth be told there are still some unsightly gaps between the two and the plackert is too long, so when I eventually remove the plackert to shorten it I'll probably use some vise-grips to hold it and the breastplate together so that I can hammer it over a smooth stake to make sure they fit nicely and there are no gaps.
Woooow
Is it possible to planish without a ball stake?
definitely, I try to do the majority of the planishing process from the inside if I can help it. That's just putting the outside of a piece on the face of an anvil and using a rounded hammer to smooth it from the inside. Although with most pieces there will be a time when some sort of stake is at least good to have. I used to use a very polished railroad spike in a vice, still do for some work. Although it's possible to make a functional stake in some other ways, such as smoothing a trailer hitch ball and securing it to a stake somehow. I even used a hardwood ball jammed onto a steel pipe in a pinch. Plenty of options and ways around problems.
The bevor imo is small; but I can sort of see why as you have an open faced sallet
Ikr the bevor should stop just below the nose
What is that cylindrical metal piece you use for dishing?
It's just a dedicated dishing form I made back in high school shop, all that's to it is a short section of steel pipe welded to a flat plate of steel. I heavily beveled the edge and it's been working out really well for me since then. I like it because I can get deeper shapes without hitting the bottom like most cast iron forms.
Awesome video, made better by Ramstein at the end
А гаржет разве не под кирасу надевают?
Did you not end up attaching your visor ?
Yeah I wasn't quite satisfied with the way it came out so I left it off until I made a better one
Looks nice, did you weld the helm with an arc welder?
Thank you, that is correct though. I used a Chicago Electric gasless wire fed MIG welder. It's a low powered one which makes it ideal for this sort of welding with thinner metals.
Gothic armor looks really good, but I think I like Milanese armor better.
Shall one have the same time to devote the attention of a smith from the 15th century meticulously as such.
One: there is a contract, it is somebody's name on the line, not a mere leisure pursuit.
What kind of welder are you also are you a part of the Armored Combat League
I was trained as a GMAW welder and worked in a factory as an apprentice for a while, though I haven't done that for a couple years, I'm afraid. I'm not part of the ACL since there doesn't seem to be an active group in my area, although I'm definitely interested in doing that style of fighting once my equipment is up to it.
knights where not the only ones on the battlefield wearing armor. check out my video on medieval crossbow man and archers
How long did that take you all up? Nice work!
Blood stains are not optional
Thank you! It's hard to say for sure how long it took since I worked on it on and off. Looking back at the video files it seems I made all these pieces here between June 6th and June 17th of last year, but I've done a few modifications since then. But naturally they could have been included in the initial building process.
*BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD.*
That hammer you used for dishing is as big as your head lol
Haha yeah but it does help moving the metal around
Have you or any member of your combat group read dies the fire
I haven't personally, though I can't speak for the other guys.
Living Manuscript you should look into it my lord it's a good read
I'll give it a look, thanks.
whole series is amazing imo
Yes you must include cats in videos if you got any.
do you sel armour
Not currently as I'm living in an apartment now away from my shop, though it may happen some time down the road.
I guess you can't turn your head in that thing.
Gute Deutsche Musik
Russian Blue cats are best
If you like your knuckles, you should stop hammering with a glove.
Terrible
Look Armure Dube
Who pooped into your dinner bro?