Hi guys, thank you so much for your great questions! Just so you know, we have put the links to other color mixing videos in the video and in the description above, that will help with understanding how to mix a color recipe using parts, how color saturation works, baking instructions and more. I will make sure to add more videos in the future on this clay and the topic of color mixing, since there are still many questions that need to be answered for many of you. Thank you all so much for your support! I hope you are enjoying the build up to the holidays and that it is a happy time for you all!
Wow! Those snap tests were very surprising! Certainly a worry for those who want professional for jewellery pieces. Could you do some more snap tests with higher baking times and compare it to other fimo lines? I use fimo soft most of the time, with a couple of classic colours. I also have some of the premo metallics. Out of all of them, premo certainly stays soft the longest but I've always found it has a rubbery kind of texture that remains after baking. Classic is always more crumbly than Soft (surprise surprise). I have noticed that I need to be careful when conditioning fimo- especially old fimo, because it can get very brittle if you don't give it a bit of time to really waken up a bit. I like to try and get it very warm (to the point it becomes tacky) and then let it rest for a little while before working it again, just to be sure. Perhaps that's because of the cold storage conditions I have it in, though.
I also work mostly with femo and cernit, we don't really get other brands in South Africa. But for cleaning Fimo off your hands and cleaning your workspace and tools I use wet wipes, or baby wipes. Works like a bomb.
I've been absolutely loving the fimo professional, it conditions like a dream, and the new system of mixing colours is so nice and straightforward! I'm definitely gonna look into getting this set of colours~!
Thank you so much for taking the time for such a thorough review, it was brilliant. Its really helpful to see how it all works without having to fight with the product yourself and start swearing at the sky! Thanks for investing in such a great camera too and for Doug's amazing camera work - I've just watched this on my tv via Chromecast and everything was crystal clear. :D
Thank you for the explanation. I found the new stuff will not only darken at high temps but warp. It was stronger at the higher temp. I dislike it because of the staining and mushiness. The unwrapped packages dried out and crumbled when trying to condition. I do love the colors and the ease of mixing. Denise Osborne
I found an online store in Spain that sells to Portugal and they carry Premo, so I recently had the pleasure of working with your favorite brand of clay. I love the pearly colors, and one thing I can say for sure is that Premo isn't nearly as sticky as Fimo, which has its advantages and its disadvantages. As a disadvantage, I'd say that Premo is a bit harder to work with when I need to roll it (like rolling it in my hands to condition it), because I find it's easier to get air trapped inside the clay as it doesn't stick to itself very well unless I press it really hard. As an advantage, I find it doesn't get that much lint and cat hair stuck to it when I'm working. All I have to do to get the white Fimo soft dirty is roll it into a ball and condition it in my hands for 5 seconds (even if I'm careful and wash my hands very well before using it, and I even use sticky tape on my hands to catch the lint before touching the clay). Premo, on the other hand, even if I'm working with a light color such as Pearl, I can condition it in my hands and it doesn't get dirty, which is something I absolutely love!
What I think was awesome was their promo to get that set or the doll skin tones set with a mold kit for free. I still haven't tried mine yet but can't wait to find the time to. Looks great!
i don't understand what you mean by saying its back and forth mixing tint colors, and some of you complaining that it is hard to mix in general... well it isn't formula is very easy to read and calculate, first get one of those mini digital jewellers scales, they are cheap and good addition to your workshop, so you don't need to waste time making equal parts of clay just weight and ready to go okay so lets crack it 😁 first step (80Y+1R) we know that there is 80 parts of yellow and 1 part of red = total 81 parts to make 10g of (80Y+1R) mix (you can change to any volume you like) we calculate dividing 10g by 81 parts 10 ÷ 81 = 0.12345679012 means one part weights = 0.12345679012 to get ratios we multiply that number by parts given in formula to get yellow weight 80 x 0.12345679012 = 9.87654320987 grams to get red weight 1 x 0.12345679012 = 0.12345679012 grams thats all now other step to (4W+1YI) our total weight of previous formula (80Y+1R) = 10g and it is 1 part in formula (4W+1YI) means 10g is one part to get white weight we multiply 10g by 4 cause 4 parts of white 10 x 4 = 40g so we put clay on scale as follows red = 0.12345679012 grams yellow = 9.87654320987 grams white = 40 grams and here you go straight to (4W+1YI) no need to roll hundreds of balls 😁 and no back and forth? any questions are welcome 😉
@@PolymerClayTutor no problems 😉 btw i found so many great tips at your chanel 😉 can i ask if it is possible to thin regular premo or fimo clay with sculpey clay softener till liquid consistency? will it be as good as liquid clays?
@@ArronBa Thank you! You can use Sculpey Clay Softener to soften up hard Fimo or any other brand but I don't think you can do it to the same level as liquid clay... at least not to the same level of transparency. But you could test it and see what happens.
@@PolymerClayTutor thank you, today i have tried to soften to consistency of liquid clay and it worked, i did two samples one looks like sculpey bake and bond and other like fimo gell, not trasparent but consistency alike, ill get back after baking and testing 😉
Wow! That snap test is a bit of an eye opener! I would also like to see how much of a temperature increase it would need to be stronger and what the perfect balance would be to get optimum strength and true colour. I use fimo classic. Is that the same in terms of its strength? Happy New Year Cindy!
Hi Cindy! First thank you SO MUCH for all these videos and all the time you take to do all this testing and experimenting and reviewing the various poly clays and all the amazing tutorials that you do. I have a question as I have struggled with polymer clay odors of raw clays. I have seen time and time again from various sources that FIMO and Premo! and Cernit and Kato are the top 4 very strong and durable poly clays that also will retain some flexibility after baking. I saw your review of Kato and it gave you really strong odors raw that irritate you. I get that same issue with Pemo! with headaches, throat gets irritated, eyes get bothered and it's really super strong to me. I noticed Sculpey III doesn't have that strong odor raw, but it's not as strong after baking and that won't work well for me for what I plan to do. After seeing your Kato review I won't even bother trying it...if it has a strong headache inducing odor raw it won't be a go for me to use. So this leaves me left with attempting FIMO Professional(Classic) and Cernit. Do either of those have a very strong odor working with them raw? Since you are a fan of Premo! and you use it a lot it's curious that that smell doesn't irritate you, but Premo! wrecks me with the odor...was wondering how FIMO and Cernit compare to you personally in fume odor with the raw clay. Thanks in advance - Frankie :)
I have fimo professional white and the clay I baked is super flexible and will bend like crazy if I force it. But if you're bending a small square in half it shouldn't be that surprising if it breaks lol. I actually think you overbaked it cuz it looked like the one you baked the least amount had the most flexibility to it. I wouldn't recommend going higher. You're only supposed to bake a small square like that for 30 min maybe less given how small it is but yeah I haven't had a problem with this clay whatsoever. It is a bit tougher than fimo soft. Have you tried fimo kids? I bought some and hate it lol it's worse than even craft smart clay it's like warm taffy you can't do anything with it it's so soft it mooshes with the slightest touch!
Hi Cindy! Have you ever used the gelli printing technique? I really love the way colors layer and mesh, and I was wondering if you could use gelli printing on polymer clay? I'm thinking of doing some experimenting, but I'm having a hard time deciding where to start! I would love to hear any thoughts you might have on this subject 😀
Agree with you on the the formula for the whiter shades and blacker shades. I'm also a bit confused but the 80 parts thing... That's a lot! Plus the time to figure out the size of parts I'd be using, would take too long, for me. The idea seems great, but I only enjoy mixing paint. :)
pct has a great tutorial on mixing clay with color recipes. She uses itty bitty square cutters, then cuts them down further like a pie. So 80 parts doesn't have to be as big of an amount as you're thinking
In terms of color mixing: It is a common - very common - engrained misconception that Red and Yellow Make orange. In reality - Magenta + Yellow makes red. And Magenta plus a little more yellow makes Orange. Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow are actually the primary colors - As discovered by printers. The colors they load into the printer: CYMK and yet they're printing RED, BLUE, AND YELLOW as primary colors in text books - HMMMMM
I want to start a sculpting project. Can you use plaster of Paris (or similar) to create a frame, mold or armature as the substructure for a model, then bake it? My goal is to sculpt miniature trees that have a bit of a cartoon or animation appearance. Thx for the all the content! I will search through your video archives, too.
I used my FIMO this weekend and it was incredibly hard. I used a NeverKnead machine and warmed it up in my hands and used an acrylic roller and ran it through the pasta machine MANY times and it never got very soft. Won't use it again, especially after seeing how weak it is.
I had the same problem! I also received the giveaway package. I ran out of my premo white, and figured it was a good time to try out the new stuff. An hour into conditioning and it was still too hard to use. Maybe I'll use it up by mixing it into my premo clay
It's a shame for us, I live in central Canada and we do not get any new products for up to a year, year and a half after they're released in the US. We don't have Sculpey Soufflé yet either. Bummer! Guess I'll have to make a trip down to the states one of these days!
Ive found sculpey souffle only at hobby lobby :/ Its like an hr away for me. Its nog everywbere in the us. I havent seen the new premo colors either anywhere in any stores. it seems like getting online is the best bet.
+Buttered Lumps +Viviana R We don't have HobbyLobby or Joanes Fabric here in Canada. As far as getting Souffle clay in Canada +Jack's Crafts I know you can get that here at www.etsy.com/shop/VanIslandJewels she ships out of Canada in Western Canada and at shadesofclay.com/shop/ in Eastern Canada. Both shops are run by wonderful people so whichever works better for you, might be a good place to get your supplies if you can't get to the US.
I had a problem with polymer clay , please reply if you know how to fix this problem , the problem is that my clay cracks at the edges when I put it in the pasta machine , but there's more problems , I saw on youtube that people stretch the polymer clay when reducing canes ... etc , but my clay doesn't stretch, it cracks when I pull it . Also people said that you need to condition the clay to make it soft and workable , but when I take the clay out of the packet it would be a little bit stretchy and good but after conditioning it , it cracks at the edges and you can't stretch it . I think the problem is that the brand of clay is not good or maybe I bought a bad batch of clay , maybe it was baked a little bit , I don't remember when I bought it , but I think I bought it on August or September let's say at the last of the summer , but I think the real problem is the brand of the clay , because it's too cheap , I saw on youtube people said that Sculpey costs about one dollar for every 57g packet ,and Fimo is about 2 dollars ... etc , but my clay is a lot cheaper than Sculpey , Premo , Fimo ... etc , and the price of the clay I bought is about 2 dollars for 400g packet !! Look how cheap is that if you compare it to other brands of polymer clay . If you know how to fix the problem please reply and Thanks for everyone who read this.
So.. Fimo original clay colors don't mix well together because they didn't do a good job formulating the actual color (*ie: red is not really red nor is yellow really yellow). So, instead of fixing that - they decided to just come out with a new "professional" line (i.e.: more expensive) and call it a day... yup.. sounds like someone in marketing got this one through the brass....
I'm not sure I understand your question on the color chart and doing the "math" to get the other colors. Why would it not just be the amount of white or black added to the amount of the primary colors in the main row in total? Like for the lightest middle yellow you indicated would be 20Y + 1R + 20 W? (Maybe you wanted the 20Y+1R to be in there instead of YII?) Or am I missing something? How else would it be achieved?
+Amy Roswick This is a pretty tricky question to answer in such a small box, but it isn't as clear as you are thinking. You can't just add all the parts together... the proportions would be off. The formula for YII = 20Y+1R then you take one part of that and add the 20W. To do the math, YII actually has 21 parts in it... if you want to use all of it, the whole mix would now be one part, (which is 21 times larger than the part you started with.) So to add 20 parts white to it using the same size cutter, you would need a huge number of parts... 20 x 21=420. So... if you just wanted to add them all together the formula would actually be 20Y + 1R + 420W which is an insane number of pieces to cut out. The only way to make that work, would then be to divide the numbers down to much smaller amounts which would make the red quite a small fraction. As you can see, there is quite a bit of math that would need to be done and is not nearly as simple as you would think. I am sure you are now even more confused.... which means perhaps I should try and do another video that would explain that concept a little clearer. Maybe in the New Year...
pesto12601 Clearly you missed it. The 1 part of the mixture of YIII is added to the white. That's the part of the equation that I was missing---taking just 1 part of the big mixture of 20 part Y and 1 part R. I was thinking it would be adding all the YIII made to the amount of white. With Cindy's excellent explanation I'm completely clear.
Amy Roswick clear?... 20Y + 1R + 20 W.. that 20 Y, 1 R... is the same as 1 part of the big mixture... its math.. you can take all of the parts or one of the mixture - you still get the same thing.
I was wandering if you have know anything about Michaels off brand poly clay? I bought some and it seems to have a lot of air bubbles, and I'm pretty sure it's not all me, lol!
If it was the Craftsmart brand... it probably wasn't you. It is no the best clay. Get Premo or Fimo instead when you are at Michaels. They are much higher quality clays.
+PolymerClayTutor it was the first time I've been to Michaels and I've definitely learned my lesson... I will defiantly stick wth premo or fimo, thank you !
Why Oh Why are all my Filmo pro pieces darkening, I have lovely fading stripes and when its baked it darkens so much theres just muddy lines and all detail lost. This happened with Filmo soft also.....so fed up with filmo,,,never yet kept a bright yellow. ? ? ?
Is it possible you are baking too hot? Are you using an oven thermometer? Are you Tenting? Or could your oven be dirty? Some clay brands darken a little but if they're turning a muddy brown then it could be something else. I have several baking videos that may help.
@@PolymerClayTutor Yes, I think I might be baking to hot, also I always tent but I have stopped now and the color is better, it is only with Filmo which I know does darken. I must get an oven thermometer but when I bake at a lower temp they are too flexible. Thank you so much for your advice, I shall watch your baking videos,,,again. x x
You roll out sheet of clay consistent thickness. Then you take a cutter (circle, square, leaf shape - doesn't matter) and cut however many pieces of that cutter the "recipe" calls for. SO, for 80Y and 1R, you would cut 80 yellow circles and 1 red circle. Hope that helps. If you have a gram measuring scale, it could be easier to do it by weight, I think.
Thanks for doing this review...I still haven't touched my gift pack of professional from fimo! I now have a better idea of how to use it as I am also a longtime Premo user...disappointed with the strength test...will have to do some of my own to determine what usage would be best...like maybe better for jewelry and bead making as opposed to sculpture...well I guess it's just time for me to dig in and get my feet wet (or get my hands stained! Lol!) :-)
Hi, I'm making buttons from polymer clay as it will give me the freedom to make the sizes I need out of the colors I want. I am having some difficulty polishing them though (fingers get in the way). Does anyone have suggestions as to how I could secure them to some sort of handle to get my fingers out of the road? Thanks!
@@PolymerClayTutor Yes, you may be right! I condition it with the pasta machine; it takes about a half hour to condition but after doing so I can work with it. I don't like to waste money! I bought quite a bunch of it, needless to say I have a lot to use but I dread it!
Hi guys, thank you so much for your great questions! Just so you know, we have put the links to other color mixing videos in the video and in the description above, that will help with understanding how to mix a color recipe using parts, how color saturation works, baking instructions and more. I will make sure to add more videos in the future on this clay and the topic of color mixing, since there are still many questions that need to be answered for many of you. Thank you all so much for your support! I hope you are enjoying the build up to the holidays and that it is a happy time for you all!
I love that they included a color mixing chart! Thanks again for another great video, Cindy!
Wow! Those snap tests were very surprising! Certainly a worry for those who want professional for jewellery pieces. Could you do some more snap tests with higher baking times and compare it to other fimo lines?
I use fimo soft most of the time, with a couple of classic colours. I also have some of the premo metallics.
Out of all of them, premo certainly stays soft the longest but I've always found it has a rubbery kind of texture that remains after baking. Classic is always more crumbly than Soft (surprise surprise). I have noticed that I need to be careful when conditioning fimo- especially old fimo, because it can get very brittle if you don't give it a bit of time to really waken up a bit. I like to try and get it very warm (to the point it becomes tacky) and then let it rest for a little while before working it again, just to be sure.
Perhaps that's because of the cold storage conditions I have it in, though.
I also work mostly with femo and cernit, we don't really get other brands in South Africa. But for cleaning Fimo off your hands and cleaning your workspace and tools I use wet wipes, or baby wipes. Works like a bomb.
I've been absolutely loving the fimo professional, it conditions like a dream, and the new system of mixing colours is so nice and straightforward! I'm definitely gonna look into getting this set of colours~!
Thank you so much for taking the time for such a thorough review, it was brilliant. Its really helpful to see how it all works without having to fight with the product yourself and start swearing at the sky! Thanks for investing in such a great camera too and for Doug's amazing camera work - I've just watched this on my tv via Chromecast and everything was crystal clear. :D
Thank you for the explanation. I found the new stuff will not only darken at high temps but warp. It was stronger at the higher temp. I dislike it because of the staining and mushiness. The unwrapped packages dried out and crumbled when trying to condition. I do love the colors and the ease of mixing. Denise Osborne
I found an online store in Spain that sells to Portugal and they carry Premo, so I recently had the pleasure of working with your favorite brand of clay. I love the pearly colors, and one thing I can say for sure is that Premo isn't nearly as sticky as Fimo, which has its advantages and its disadvantages.
As a disadvantage, I'd say that Premo is a bit harder to work with when I need to roll it (like rolling it in my hands to condition it), because I find it's easier to get air trapped inside the clay as it doesn't stick to itself very well unless I press it really hard.
As an advantage, I find it doesn't get that much lint and cat hair stuck to it when I'm working. All I have to do to get the white Fimo soft dirty is roll it into a ball and condition it in my hands for 5 seconds (even if I'm careful and wash my hands very well before using it, and I even use sticky tape on my hands to catch the lint before touching the clay). Premo, on the other hand, even if I'm working with a light color such as Pearl, I can condition it in my hands and it doesn't get dirty, which is something I absolutely love!
What I think was awesome was their promo to get that set or the doll skin tones set with a mold kit for free. I still haven't tried mine yet but can't wait to find the time to. Looks great!
i don't understand what you mean by saying its back and forth mixing tint colors, and some of you complaining that it is hard to mix in general...
well it isn't
formula is very easy to read and calculate, first get one of those mini digital jewellers scales, they are cheap and good addition to your workshop, so you don't need to waste time making equal parts of clay just weight and ready to go
okay so lets crack it 😁
first step (80Y+1R)
we know that there is
80 parts of yellow and 1 part of red = total 81 parts
to make 10g of (80Y+1R) mix (you can change to any volume you like)
we calculate dividing 10g by 81 parts
10 ÷ 81 = 0.12345679012
means one part weights = 0.12345679012
to get ratios we multiply that number by parts given in formula
to get yellow weight 80 x 0.12345679012 = 9.87654320987 grams
to get red weight 1 x 0.12345679012 = 0.12345679012 grams
thats all
now other step to (4W+1YI)
our total weight of previous formula (80Y+1R) = 10g
and it is 1 part in formula (4W+1YI)
means 10g is one part
to get white weight we multiply 10g by 4 cause 4 parts of white
10 x 4 = 40g
so we put clay on scale as follows
red = 0.12345679012 grams
yellow = 9.87654320987 grams
white = 40 grams
and here you go straight to (4W+1YI)
no need to roll hundreds of balls 😁 and no back and forth?
any questions are welcome 😉
Thanks for the input!
@@PolymerClayTutor no problems 😉 btw i found so many great tips at your chanel 😉
can i ask if it is possible to thin regular premo or fimo clay with sculpey clay softener till liquid consistency? will it be as good as liquid clays?
@@ArronBa Thank you! You can use Sculpey Clay Softener to soften up hard Fimo or any other brand but I don't think you can do it to the same level as liquid clay... at least not to the same level of transparency. But you could test it and see what happens.
@@PolymerClayTutor thank you, today i have tried to soften to consistency of liquid clay and it worked, i did two samples one looks like sculpey bake and bond and other like fimo gell, not trasparent but consistency alike, ill get back after baking and testing 😉
Wow! That snap test is a bit of an eye opener! I would also like to see how much of a temperature increase it would need to be stronger and what the perfect balance would be to get optimum strength and true colour. I use fimo classic. Is that the same in terms of its strength? Happy New Year Cindy!
Maggie Maggio really likes this clay! And says it seems to work well for the cyan, magenta, yellow color mixing.
Hi Cindy! First thank you SO MUCH for all these videos and all the time you take to do all this testing and experimenting and reviewing the various poly clays and all the amazing tutorials that you do. I have a question as I have struggled with polymer clay odors of raw clays. I have seen time and time again from various sources that FIMO and Premo! and Cernit and Kato are the top 4 very strong and durable poly clays that also will retain some flexibility after baking. I saw your review of Kato and it gave you really strong odors raw that irritate you.
I get that same issue with Pemo! with headaches, throat gets irritated, eyes get bothered and it's really super strong to me. I noticed Sculpey III doesn't have that strong odor raw, but it's not as strong after baking and that won't work well for me for what I plan to do. After seeing your Kato review I won't even bother trying it...if it has a strong headache inducing odor raw it won't be a go for me to use. So this leaves me left with attempting FIMO Professional(Classic) and Cernit. Do either of those have a very strong odor working with them raw? Since you are a fan of Premo! and you use it a lot it's curious that that smell doesn't irritate you, but Premo! wrecks me with the odor...was wondering how FIMO and Cernit compare to you personally in fume odor with the raw clay. Thanks in advance - Frankie :)
I have fimo professional white and the clay I baked is super flexible and will bend like crazy if I force it. But if you're bending a small square in half it shouldn't be that surprising if it breaks lol. I actually think you overbaked it cuz it looked like the one you baked the least amount had the most flexibility to it. I wouldn't recommend going higher. You're only supposed to bake a small square like that for 30 min maybe less given how small it is but yeah I haven't had a problem with this clay whatsoever. It is a bit tougher than fimo soft. Have you tried fimo kids? I bought some and hate it lol it's worse than even craft smart clay it's like warm taffy you can't do anything with it it's so soft it mooshes with the slightest touch!
Hi Cindy! Have you ever used the gelli printing technique? I really love the way colors layer and mesh, and I was wondering if you could use gelli printing on polymer clay? I'm thinking of doing some experimenting, but I'm having a hard time deciding where to start! I would love to hear any thoughts you might have on this subject 😀
PLEASE--PLEASE--Where can I get that color chart?
Agree with you on the the formula for the whiter shades and blacker shades. I'm also a bit confused but the 80 parts thing... That's a lot! Plus the time to figure out the size of parts I'd be using, would take too long, for me. The idea seems great, but I only enjoy mixing paint. :)
pct has a great tutorial on mixing clay with color recipes. She uses itty bitty square cutters, then cuts them down further like a pie. So 80 parts doesn't have to be as big of an amount as you're thinking
Esta arcilla polimerica puede mojarse en el agua del mar , se color puede cambiar? O dañarse el material.?
In terms of color mixing:
It is a common - very common - engrained misconception that Red and Yellow Make orange. In reality - Magenta + Yellow makes red. And Magenta plus a little more yellow makes Orange. Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow are actually the primary colors - As discovered by printers. The colors they load into the printer: CYMK and yet they're printing RED, BLUE, AND YELLOW as primary colors in text books - HMMMMM
I want to start a sculpting project. Can you use plaster of Paris (or similar) to create a frame, mold or armature as the substructure for a model, then bake it? My goal is to sculpt miniature trees that have a bit of a cartoon or animation appearance. Thx for the all the content! I will search through your video archives, too.
Wow ur so good at clay
I used my FIMO this weekend and it was incredibly hard. I used a NeverKnead machine and warmed it up in my hands and used an acrylic roller and ran it through the pasta machine MANY times and it never got very soft. Won't use it again, especially after seeing how weak it is.
+Peg Carter Fimo is usually a very strong type of clay, are you sure your package wasn't too old?
I just got it from the company's giveaway. It shouldn't be old.
I had the same problem! I also received the giveaway package. I ran out of my premo white, and figured it was a good time to try out the new stuff. An hour into conditioning and it was still too hard to use. Maybe I'll use it up by mixing it into my premo clay
It's a shame for us, I live in central Canada and we do not get any new products for up to a year, year and a half after they're released in the US. We don't have Sculpey Soufflé yet either. Bummer! Guess I'll have to make a trip down to the states one of these days!
Ive found sculpey souffle only at hobby lobby :/ Its like an hr away for me. Its nog everywbere in the us. I havent seen the new premo colors either anywhere in any stores. it seems like getting online is the best bet.
+Buttered Lumps +Viviana R We don't have HobbyLobby or Joanes Fabric here in Canada. As far as getting Souffle clay in Canada +Jack's Crafts I know you can get that here at www.etsy.com/shop/VanIslandJewels she ships out of Canada in Western Canada and at shadesofclay.com/shop/ in Eastern Canada. Both shops are run by wonderful people so whichever works better for you, might be a good place to get your supplies if you can't get to the US.
This is very helpful , thank you !
that was very interesting! thank you!
I had a problem with polymer clay , please reply if you know how to fix this problem , the problem is that my clay cracks at the edges when I put it in the pasta machine , but there's more problems , I saw on youtube that people stretch the polymer clay when reducing canes ... etc , but my clay doesn't stretch, it cracks when I pull it . Also people said that you need to condition the clay to make it soft and workable , but when I take the clay out of the packet it would be a little bit stretchy and good but after conditioning it , it cracks at the edges and you can't stretch it . I think the problem is that the brand of clay is not good or maybe I bought a bad batch of clay , maybe it was baked a little bit , I don't remember when I bought it , but I think I bought it on August or September let's say at the last of the summer , but I think the real problem is the brand of the clay , because it's too cheap , I saw on youtube people said that Sculpey costs about one dollar for every 57g packet ,and Fimo is about 2 dollars ... etc , but my clay is a lot cheaper than Sculpey , Premo , Fimo ... etc , and the price of the clay I bought is about 2 dollars for 400g packet !! Look how cheap is that if you compare it to other brands of polymer clay . If you know how to fix the problem please reply and Thanks for everyone who read this.
So.. Fimo original clay colors don't mix well together because they didn't do a good job formulating the actual color (*ie: red is not really red nor is yellow really yellow). So, instead of fixing that - they decided to just come out with a new "professional" line (i.e.: more expensive) and call it a day... yup.. sounds like someone in marketing got this one through the brass....
+pesto12601 Also, the new packages are bigger than the older ones, so the price per weight is pretty much the same.
Hi Cindy! Maby you can do a review of the efcolor enamel powders on polymer clay?:)
Hey
what oven do you use for baking clay?
where did you get the mixing chart
Im so glad i live in Europe,here is no problem buy any brand of polymer clay.
Can we used it for bolt jointed doll too?
I'm not sure I understand your question on the color chart and doing the "math" to get the other colors. Why would it not just be the amount of white or black added to the amount of the primary colors in the main row in total? Like for the lightest middle yellow you indicated would be 20Y + 1R + 20 W? (Maybe you wanted the 20Y+1R to be in there instead of YII?) Or am I missing something? How else would it be achieved?
+Amy Roswick This is a pretty tricky question to answer in such a small box, but it isn't as clear as you are thinking. You can't just add all the parts together... the proportions would be off. The formula for YII = 20Y+1R then you take one part of that and add the 20W. To do the math, YII actually has 21 parts in it... if you want to use all of it, the whole mix would now be one part, (which is 21 times larger than the part you started with.) So to add 20 parts white to it using the same size cutter, you would need a huge number of parts... 20 x 21=420. So... if you just wanted to add them all together the formula would actually be 20Y + 1R + 420W which is an insane number of pieces to cut out. The only way to make that work, would then be to divide the numbers down to much smaller amounts which would make the red quite a small fraction. As you can see, there is quite a bit of math that would need to be done and is not nearly as simple as you would think. I am sure you are now even more confused.... which means perhaps I should try and do another video that would explain that concept a little clearer. Maybe in the New Year...
1 part YII! That's the important factor that I sorta glossed over. I see what you mean now. Good point I hadn't considered.
+Amy Roswick no.. 20 parts Y.. 1 part R.. you still missed it.
pesto12601 Clearly you missed it. The 1 part of the mixture of YIII is added to the white. That's the part of the equation that I was missing---taking just 1 part of the big mixture of 20 part Y and 1 part R. I was thinking it would be adding all the YIII made to the amount of white. With Cindy's excellent explanation I'm completely clear.
Amy Roswick clear?... 20Y + 1R + 20 W.. that 20 Y, 1 R... is the same as 1 part of the big mixture... its math.. you can take all of the parts or one of the mixture - you still get the same thing.
I was wandering if you have know anything about Michaels off brand poly clay? I bought some and it seems to have a lot of air bubbles, and I'm pretty sure it's not all me, lol!
If it was the Craftsmart brand... it probably wasn't you. It is no the best clay. Get Premo or Fimo instead when you are at Michaels. They are much higher quality clays.
+PolymerClayTutor it was the first time I've been to Michaels and I've definitely learned my lesson... I will defiantly stick wth premo or fimo, thank you !
80 yellow and 2 red.. 80 what though? pieces of yellow? grams??
Why Oh Why are all my Filmo pro pieces darkening, I have lovely fading stripes and when its baked it darkens so much theres just muddy lines and all detail lost. This happened with Filmo soft also.....so fed up with filmo,,,never yet kept a bright yellow. ? ? ?
Is it possible you are baking too hot? Are you using an oven thermometer? Are you Tenting? Or could your oven be dirty? Some clay brands darken a little but if they're turning a muddy brown then it could be something else. I have several baking videos that may help.
@@PolymerClayTutor Yes, I think I might be baking to hot, also I always tent but I have stopped now and the color is better, it is only with Filmo which I know does darken. I must get an oven thermometer but when I bake at a lower temp they are too flexible. Thank you so much for your advice, I shall watch your baking videos,,,again. x x
how to measure the parts? If for example it takes 12 y and 1 w. Do you weigh the clay? measure?
You roll out sheet of clay consistent thickness. Then you take a cutter (circle, square, leaf shape - doesn't matter) and cut however many pieces of that cutter the "recipe" calls for. SO, for 80Y and 1R, you would cut 80 yellow circles and 1 red circle.
Hope that helps. If you have a gram measuring scale, it could be easier to do it by weight, I think.
Ok, got cha
Has anyone tried to mix pantone colors? I really love the 2016 Rose quartz and Serenity and want try to match them. Any suggestions?
Thanks for doing this review...I still haven't touched my gift pack of professional from fimo! I now have a better idea of how to use it as I am also a longtime Premo user...disappointed with the strength test...will have to do some of my own to determine what usage would be best...like maybe better for jewelry and bead making as opposed to sculpture...well I guess it's just time for me to dig in and get my feet wet (or get my hands stained! Lol!) :-)
Hi, I'm making buttons from polymer clay as it will give me the freedom to make the sizes I need out of the colors I want. I am having some difficulty polishing them though (fingers get in the way). Does anyone have suggestions as to how I could secure them to some sort of handle to get my fingers out of the road? Thanks!
+Susan Smart a folded piece of tape works well. I'll do a video some time.
Thanks Cindy, I hadn't thought of anything that simple. I've been playing a lot during this work break and have a ton of sanding to finish.
thanks for this
Great video, i love your uploads.Keep it up. Sifoutv Pottery
80 to 1 do you do that by weight??
+Christonya Watson No by parts. Watch the video on how to mix color recipes and it will explain how that system works. Merry Christmas!
tjanks bro
*_"Merry Christmas"_*
The colors are beautifull, but ther so dificult to mix...
it is not 🤦♂️
I bought a bunch of Fimo Professional clay it is the worst clay ever! It was crumbly and I could not work with it!
I'm sorry to hear that. Sounds like you got some old clay. :(
@@PolymerClayTutor Yes, you may be right! I condition it with the pasta machine; it takes about a half hour to condition but after doing so I can work with it. I don't like to waste money! I bought quite a bunch of it, needless to say I have a lot to use but I dread it!