Waterproof COAX Cable the Way The Techs Do It!
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- Never have water get into your coax cable connectors again!
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The Coax SUPERIOR To What 99% of Hams Are Using 👉 ua-cam.com/video/spHOPX70krc/v-deo.html
Hayden I consider your work 99% better than most channels. This video was brilliant right up to promoting a brand of cable that sponsors you. Its unethical for any operator with financial interest in any product review to first, just dont abuse the trust youve worked hard to earn.. and last, clearly reveal financial interest so recommendations are ethical.
M&P is specified as great stuff but is not 99% more effective than other brands. Thats just hyperbolic baloney.
Its most certainly better than rg58 cheaply aquired via Amazon for Amateur radio work. And its absolutely the most important gear in VHF and higher.
But please be honest to the community and bring the whole spectrum of good names and type of cable. I buy government surplus thats certainly higher rating than Hyperflex 13. LMR 600 or even 400 from Times Microwave or Andrews is far above Hyperflex 10. As you rated lmr 240 alongside HF 10 is not really an option with VHF and higher. Im really not even comfortable using 240 when surplus lmr 400 can be aquired from a number of surplus government vendors.
Low loss, high quality cable is the single most important aspect of an effective station. Losing 2db in less than 100 feet is not acceptable.
Connectors are critical too. I was at a ham fest yesterday and left with a dozen Amphenol connectors from. you guessed it, SURPLUS GOVERNMENT AUCTION. $3 each for minty fresh coupling and new lmr 400 type N connectors that both clamp and get center pin soldered.
Your a great YTer and I consider you a friend and just ask you to put the community before corporate sponsors.
@@radioteststhis video was not sponsored by M&P in anyway. I provide disclosures when such videos are. Thank you
We called that stuff F-4 tape when I was in the USAF, years ago. I was a radar tech on fighters and ground radar (later). We wrapped just about all of our connections with that stuff, essentially like you do, sans the electrical tape, since most all of the connections were inside of the jet or equipment racks, and closed off after we finished. Good video, thanks!
Self Sealing Silicone Tape. Lowe's has it in the plumbing department and I've been using it on my coax. Retired USAF :)
I was taught this exact technique when I started my marine electronics career back in 1989. I was busy installing JRC GPS navigators (new technology back then) and each included a roll of Nitto brand self-amalgamating tape and PVC tape. The instructions were very clear about the need for multiple layers of rubber tape and the top layer of PVC. These connections stayed watertight in the tough marine environment for decades. JRC also introduced me to 5D2V and 3D2V Japanese coaxial cable and connectors :-)
3M super 33+ is the only "real" electrical tape. everything else is just black tape. :P
33+ Scott tape is the best. Also used Scott 88+ as well.
This method works! As a shipboard electronic tech, we did all our connections this way. I can say all our connections looked great despite the salt water environment.
The only other thing we would do is cover the entire wrap with Scotch Kote.
very good. this is how I learned years ago. now a new product from M & P called silicone seal replaces the electrical tape and can be used but it self. just place over coax and connector and putt the string out and it and it shrinks with out heat you can use glue line heat shrink but the heat needed may damage coax and or connector. hear in NY,USA we use 3 or 4 layers on out systems. lots of snow and ice with wind.
Thanks Hayden. Perfect advice and exactly what I have always done. I use Scotch 23 Self Bonding for the waterproofing layers and Scotch Super 33+ for the UV protection layer. The Super 33+ is horribly expensive, but the results after 30 years in the NW Queensland sun make it well worth the $25 per roll. I also use it to UV protect my cable ties holding coax to the boom and/or mast. Lasts forever.
Great tips! Scotch Super 33+ is the business, $$$ but as you say buy once cry once.
Good to show people. I still finish mine off after that with Denzo tape. messy as hell but never had a failure of a plug/socket connection to the antenna even with plenty of salt water. the antenna and foundations give out first ;-)
Finally someone who does it the right way. Here in the USA I use a silicon self sealing tape such as Rescue Tape or Water Shed Tape.
Great video, ive been also using non conducive dialectic grease inside my connectors also.
Also worth noting is that when connecting to an antenna where the connector is in the base is that as per the video start wrapping from the coax end to the connector so the overlaps face down and not up: this prevents any potential ingress also.
Super 88, curtesy wrap, then butyl tape, to seal it, then 5 layers of super 88 stretched tight to help compress the butyl. Start at the bottom and finish with an up wrap. At the end, flip the tape over for sticky side out, go around a couple times then flip the tape back again go around and cut it off. Don’t tear. For some odd reason, some people have problems using the self vulcanizing tape. We used it in the Navy in the 80s, but added Scotch Kote after.
When finishing off with normal electrical insulating tape, wherever possible I very briefly touch the end with the side of a hot soldering iron to melt it to the layer behind. This is very effective in stopping it unraveling.
Thank you very much good video 👍I am studying for my foundation license at the moment and excited to go back on air after 20 years cheers Pete
Awesome! Hope to hear you on the air soon 🎙️👍
I prefer silicone self fusing tape.
I put a dab of oxide inhibitor on the pin and barrel of the connection first. A
slight tightening by wrench then coat it with liquid tape. Haven’t had a problem with connections on the Jeep in temperatures from -50c to +45c. Yep you heard that right 😊. Great video- make sure you wrap it Son!
Which oxide inhibitor do you use, Muds?
DeoxiT. Expensive but you only need to use a drop.
This is excellent advice. It is exactly how the tower climbers do it.
That’s where I learned it from
Great video of correctly wrapping coax to waterproof. Used this for all my station as well as repeaters. I go a little extra and last wrap or two in Malfoy or Denso grease tape. Inspected after many years and as if new. Thanks and keep up the informative videos.
On Navy ships, we used self vulcanizing tape with ScotchKote applied over it.
3M Scotch Super 88. Outdoors the last wrap is down for water run off.
HRO sells similar stuff right at the counter, i used it 3 times yesterday for sealing some lines of LMR400 i ran to my 2 meter antennas. Great stuff, comscope makes a kit that comes with both butyl tape and black tape.
It's not often you get to see such a handsome radio ham - is it? Oh, and the techie content of your channel is really useful too!
Why thank you!
We finished off the the self fusing tape with Scotch Brand 33 electrical tape followed by several coats of Scotch Coat sealant. Very resistant to the elements. The Scotch Coat might need a booster coat every five years but it’s go PM to check feedlines for any abrasions that might compromise the coax.
It's amazing too when you tie a cable to a tower leg how it moves over time and rubs away the tape!
@@HamRadioDXthat will happen if you have a connection that might fall on a tower leg. You should always add several layers of a good quality tape around the leg where the connection will sit. If possible add a jog in the line away from the tower leaving about 1/2 to 1 inch gap to the tower leg. Adding the black weather resistant Ty wraps on each side of the jog to prevent it from moving and rubbing against the tower. Another thing I forgot to mention is that we apply at least two layers of electrical tape directly over the connection ending about two inches each side of the connections. Apply the mastic sealing tape extending another two inches beyond the base tape coating finishing with with a final coat of tape extending a few inches from the mastic ends. The purpose of the base layer of tape is to allow one to cut off the mastic and peel away the base coat of tape allowing for a clean wire surface should you ever need to open the joint. This is what was recommended by Andrew wire and cable division. Thank goodness in my years in the wireless business, I never had to open up a connection like this due to moisture ingress or damage from a lightning strike.
I have always used electrical tape. Never had water in coax (42 years of doing it). Even air spaced coax. My secret: I keep a household candle in my tool box and melt wax over the tape so it repels water. One of my friends paints the tape with PVA glue to amalgamate it. His method has been equally successful. Just food for thought. We don't have to do things to the nth degree.
Great video on proper sealing of connectors. I would like to add that the electrical tape adds chafe protection also. Another way that works great on boats where coax or any wire is exposed to weather is thick wall heat shrink that has a sealant inside Armor Company is on producer of this product. I have replaced antennas on sailboat masts that have been on the boat for over forty years and when cutting open the heat shrink the connectors still look new and have not corrosion.
Great tip!
Yep,
I've always used adhesive lined heatshrink on any outdoor connections, you just need to be careful not to overheat the connections under the heatshrink.
Denso Tape is the best I used it down the mines for sealing electric cables underwater...never gives in that stuff...I have rolls of the stuff in my garage !!!!!!
Black "Nitto" Tape, been using it since the '70's... 😂👍
There's also (Paint on)Rubber gloop too - its self amalgamating tape in a bottle, great for awkward locations like the RF connector on a Codan Tuner when the fitter/installer put it too close to the grille.
I use electrical tape to wrap around the connector and the cable immediately adjacent to the connector. Then I overwrap that with the self-fusing wrap. This allows me to unwrap and open the connector if needed, and not needing to dig all the self-fusing out of it.
For the overwrap, make certain to wrap a complete turn around itself at each end, without stretching the tape at all. That will usually stay in place, but the locking tie strap is good insurance.
For the VK's, Nitto self amalgamating tape is available at Bunnings. The 3M version is available from industrial electrical suppliers like Rexel.
We use this at work. I did my television antenna connections with this 17 years ago. Still no problems.
Flex seal works great as well.
If it was an outdoor connector I'm not going to touch for years, I would use glue lined double wall heat shrink, then use split tube over that then PVC tape around the split tube then cable tie the PVC tape.
Also M&P have o-rings on their connectors, I have 10m of the hyper flex 10, they also sell a seal boot for the connector.
Yes glue lined heatshrink is good too 👍
Nice. For everlasting outdoor installs (i.e. repeaters and such) I do 3M Temflex underneath and Denso tape on top. Denso is the most evil, most gross and most robust thing I have ever come across... But self-amalg + temflex is a great combination too.
Yes good video. The idea of stretching the tape - any tape is so that it spends the rest of it's life trying to contract upon itself. It is always tightening. I used to be an electric linesman - for the County, Borough and Power Board. On power lines/cables we would rough sand the ends so that there was a rough surface to meld to. 3 layers of PVC un-stretched to provide insinuative layer. 3 layers of tight the a couple of stretched. Of course all were over lapping. We would often leave then tapes in the warm sun and the self amalgamating we would use the warmth of our hands to make the tape become 'one tube'. After each 'run' we would extend past the last run and sometimes we had quite a long join. And yes. In the ground or in the air Denso and that too was hand smoothed. I have seen one denso join painted over and was immaculate under that first wrap. Today I don't get quite so carried away but I still use one stretched layer of PVC first. This is so that when I want to reuse the connectors they are not contaminated with sticky stuff. I am amused when I see blokes break a piece of tape off the roll and pre-stretch it, because to man handle the roll around the join and keeping tension on it is hard . We used 3m and the self amalgamating tape was thicker than the stuff in the video. Cheers Dave Creek ZL3DRC
Thanks Dave!
Especially if intending to bury the joined cable, another option is good quality large rubber heat shrink, otherwise, what used to be called "coax-seal" self-amalgating tape I find is the best option. I avoid using cheaper electrical tape outside as I find it can dry out under sunlight. 3M cloth tape can be used as an outer layer to protect lower-level coax seal tape except not when environments can go under -30C
73 Ed.
I also make sure the last layer is layerd like house tiles overlapping when the cable is running vertically, so the lap above is always on top to help reduce water penetration as well.
I also use nitto lecco tape to uv protect your proper self amalgamating tape 👌
👌 perfect 👍
Not necessary if you get the good stuff. I cover radio sites all over my country and even ones 15+ years old with self sealing rubber tape are still holding up today.
Here in europe i have seen only the "end of the day" tape, the thick rubber stuff is not sold here ihink. There are cable clamps with a seal in it, or the N-type plugs have seals themselves and should ideally only corrode on the outside.
I live in the far north of Scotland and self amalgamating tapes don’t last here. They break up after a few months. The only thing that works is Denzo tape.
Wow that must be cold there, because Tasmania is cold as too, that is where Haydon lives.
What about denzo over the top of the self amalgamating tape?
Scotch 30 is UV protected and it actually used the UV to fuse it. Taking off afterwards is a pain in the butt.
Start on the middle and stop on the middle. Its what a mine layer said to me.
I use quality scotch super 33+ electrical tape and I've never seen water intrusion in my connectors.
Only use Scotch Products
3M Temflex 2155
I use heat shrink kinda a pain if you have to adjust things but it’s waterproof
Was there a method where goo was applied and covered up? You had to cut off the gooey joint before working on the cable. Then there was this wide tape which included the goo.
I think the goo was black.
Imagine doing this up a ladder.
Just like applying a snake bite bandage!
I've used that stuff for over fifty years, but never seen a roll of SA tape which didn't have a separating wound with it. How does that stuff not self amalgamate on the coil.
It needs to be stretched for it to bond
Up, down, up.
We have Sco0tch 30 that is just as good.
Thats a lot of carbon, and other dissimilar materials in close proximity.
I only use n type connectors outside. Also a small amount of Vaseline.
What about layers of plumbers tape. The thin white stuff? I mean it works for plumbing...
on the threads? doesnt that affect the contact for the coax screen to the mating half?
@ILoveMyBikes it does indeed. It creates an insulated capacitance that's detrimental to conductivity. Only copper based products or common automotive dialectric grease is suitable. DX Engineering has great sealant.
I have to unplug the coax from the radio and store it outside when not operating, so I've been wrapping the connector end in several plastic bags and tying it up with the end pointing up to avoid water ingress. This has had questionable results. Does anyone have a good idea for protecting the cable connector end when storing outside? I know the ultimate solution is poking a hole in the wall of the house doing a permanent installation and just not telling the landlord but I haven't gotten to that yet.
You can buy panels that insert next to the window if you have horizontal sliding windows, that acts as your pass through and is removable.
You mean when the cable is disconnected? I've done similar to you, using amalgamating tape around the cable / bag, then put a small hole in the bag so that if it's not totally waterproof, the water will drain out. (I like to use the M&P style connectors that are supposedly waterproof themselves anyway)
I'd love to hear any better ideas.
Looks like Laps how you do Lap
You lap the overlap with laps
Wrapping the connector in Teflon pipe tape fist, then overwraping with self amalgamating tape, will make it much easier to get the stuff off in the future. I have used this method for 20 odd years and it works well!
Timing...I just go some 213 for a 10 ummmm 11 meter radio I am about to set up this week
Lol it's always embarrassing talking about 11m stuff on the reflector.
Everyone talks about how Low - Loss that Coax is, but if you look it up, it's not that great ?
I do like the looks of the connectors, but as to such great
Low - Loss, what am I missing ?
🤔.....?
Low loss vs flexibility. LMR240 and 400 have lower loss, but are rigid centre conductors
Dunno what charts you're looking at but the ones I'm seeing, its closer to half the loss of "regular" coax. And I'm not interested in LL400 or whatever because it's solid core and copper plated steel at that .
@@oldfartonabmx2122
" Regular Coax " ?
🤔.....?
Perhaps you need to really study, instead of memorizing the answers !
With your comment, you have made a huge leap, mixing Apples & Oranges !
Very dependent on what you wish to accomplish !
And believe it or not, a solid conductor is really what you want !
Just because it doesn't fit your plan, doesn't mean it's wrong !
Try not to paint with such a large brush !
You may end up covered in paint !
But thanks anyway !
👍😉
@@sleeve8651 size for size champ. you're welcome.
Denso tape is the answer.
Self-vulcanizing tape in general :)
I have heard they are quite UV sensitive, so normal electrical tape on top of self-vulcanizing one.
Why not an adhesive lined piece of heat shrink?
Even two layers?
In my experience glue lined heatshrink tends to crack along the glue line when exposed to stress, vibration or extremes of temperature. Once it is cracked then water ingress will follow.
@VK3ZPF "glue line"
The stuff I'm familiar with doesn't have a glue line that I'm aware of, also, when I've cut it off (very difficult to do) it seems to be homogeneous and flexible.
Have you had long term experience with this method and then subsequently cut it off afterwards?
I feel a Project Farm long term test is in order! ; )
@mjktrash "glue lined" is the same as "adhesive lined".
Once heated the adhesive goes hard and is no longer flexible. This is what leads to cracking.
Some antenna manufacturers use glue lined heatshrink on the coax connector and then advise to tape over the heatshrink in the same method as taping connectors.
@@VK3ZPF Ah, lined vs line.
I thought you were saying there existed an axial line in the glue that let water in.
As far as hardening, I haven't seen that, but I don't doubt it. Different exposures and/or manufacturers.
UV exposure eats almost anything given enough time
I’ve found the same thing. Plus it’s harder to get off later
A layer of electrical tape first makes it easier to remove the self amalgamating tape later, and an outer layer of electrical tape protects the rubber tape from UV damage. Don't buy cheap electrical tape, it always falls off. Get the good stuff. I use Scotch Super 33+.
Brotip:
Use crappy electrical tape FIRST, before the butyl rubber tape. Quick wrap of it will save your rear later.
Then to the butyl rubber half-lap wraps around the connection.
When you cut it in a few years time: the butyl tape will peel right off with ease.
Used this method on cell towers AND it works amazing.
I figured this out when I broke some thin coax by cutting it with an exacto knife, just don't forget to wrap it over and PAST the electrical tape to make the seal around the cable.
Then one last wrap of electrical tape to take the UV hit. I usually do two passes, one opposing the other. So when one pulls off, it doesn't unravel the other side.
Heat shrink!