A Simple Automotive Primer Guide - Types, Differences & Tips
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- Опубліковано 29 гру 2022
- Choosing a primer is easy and this simple guide should help you determine exactly what will work best for you and each individual job. Tools, materials & Lakeside Merch listed below:
🔥 Lacquer Primer Surfacer - Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer 1 gal Gray
Part LPG1
🔥 Urethane Primer Surfacer - Autobody Master Urethane Primer 1 gal Gray
Part UPG1
🔥 Epoxy Primer - Autobody Master Epoxy Primer 1 qt Gray
Part EPG1
🔥 Polyester Primer - Evercoat Featherfill G2 Gray Gallon - 100713 - Авто та транспорт
I’ve been doing bodywork for 45 years and every thing he said is correct .
Thanks so much for your input - very cool of you to support the channel 👍😊
Great video!! simple, to the point and well explained. They all have their place but urethane 2k primer is my choice for most repairs.
Hey GN - nice to hear from you. Happy New Year to you and your family 🎉
I still use lacquer primer a lot. I keep a pressure pot gun full of it all the time. I clean the gun about once every couple of weeks. I just hold my finger over the nozzle and blast it back into the pot to keep it from clogging up.
Great explanation! Have a great weekend and a Happy New Year
Simple and to the point. Have a great new year Jerry.
Thank you for clearing the mystery with all the different primers out there. I'm saving this video to my watch later lists . I will be sure to review when I get to this point on my project. Have a great New Year
You too Rusty - I appreciate you always checking the vids out :)
Good stuff Jerry!! Always educational!! Lacquer Primer has served me well for the past 50 years, if it ain't broke don't fix it eh!!☻
You're right there. Like beer - lots of choices but you'll still be just fine with a Budweiser.
@@LakesideAutobody This didn't age well.
Just the explanation I need…very well done !
You're the man Jerry! This is exactly what I was looking for. Straight to the point, clearly presented, another great video!
I appreciate the kind words Jake 💯✌
Great information and easy to follow. It is good to remember that many products worked and can work well in experienced hands!
Thanks Uncle Mark - always appreciate your comments - Have a Great New Year my friend 🎉
Thanks! Happy New Year!
Thank you this wraps it up quickly unlikely other people who don’t get to the point. 👍👍
Glad you liked it IM - have a great weekend :)
I think your right, there is a lot of confusion about primers out there.And this video shed some light on the subject…….thanks👍🏿
You're welcome my friend - good to hear from you. Happy New Year 🎉
Thank you! I've been watching a lot of videos trying to figure out what primer to use on my restoration project. This was simple and to the point!
Glad to hear it. You only need one primer in your shop. There was only 1 in the 4 high volume shops I worked in. It was always a primer surfacer - either lacquer based or urethane. Doesn't matter which one you use - they both work fine.
Perfect, thanks. Now simplify which sprayer. One that will do everything plus run off a home compressor with low overspray.
Good suggestion Gene - thanks. I'll write that down and get to it :)
Thanks man, I’m at this stage now, and was confused. I’m painting with single stage lacquer, so this really helped.
You're welcome - feel free to ask any ?s you might still have :)
Oh, Jerry, thanks alot. Really appreciate this. Can't thank you enough bud. Too bad it was brief, but clear as mud. You are definitely the best body man on UA-cam period :) dont work too hard
I appreciate the kind words my friend. Happy New Year GM - always love to hear from you and look forward to it next year 👍🎉
straight forward and simple for us, in my country is hard to find a primer with data on it but seems to be acrylic primer or 2k epoxy primer with low quality , thanks for your time
You're welcome - thanks for watching :)
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! Explains a lot. I think people in industry (not me) use terms interchangeably which causes much confusion. For instance I always thought 2 different primers were needed. One to seal and one to sand. One could be sanded and one can't. Thanks for the simplicicty. I've always wanted to try my hand at painting but felt like I never had good info on primers and was afraid to try. Sounds like lacquer primer would be a good starting point for me. Simple. I like simple. Thanks again.
Once you use lacquer primer, you'll never want to use anything else. Dries super fast, no activator, doesn't harden in the cup, don't have to throw the unused portion out if you don't use it all, works just fine if used correctly, cheap, builds thickness well, sands the easiest. If you keep body work simple, you'll be successful at it.
OMG. I think you literally answered hundreds of questions ❓ in your brief video. Nicely done Jerry and Happy New year 🎉
Glad it was helpful - Happy New Year PSG - great to know you :)
@@LakesideAutobody 👍👍👍
Excellent...Very well explained...
Thanks for the info and the video! And have a good and safe New year.
Happy new year to you too Terry :)
Good video !! … I have used urethane primer direct to metal and heard stories u can’t !! … I’ve never had any problems with any bondo or paint problems as long as the products like each other , and u do clean prep work u are good to go 👍🏻
You're right. I worked at a shop using urethane primer and never had to use epoxy first - urethane over properly prepared bare metal.
Thank you so much for this video nice and easy to understand Happy new years to you and your family Jerry you are the best
You're welcome Luis - that's nice of you to say - much appreciated. Happy New Year to you, your family and your new boy my friend 🎉
I got started with 2K, 30 years ago. Never messed with lacquer. Had to resub cause I screwed upped something. Happy New Year, sir!
Thanks for the sub Bill - Happy New Year to you too my friend 🎉
Quick and concise , answered a lot questions I had , thanks
Glad it helped :)
Happy new year. Another one down bud. Keep the videos coming
Thanks, Happy New Year to you too :)
Paint shops seem to only confuse me more when it comes to my diy project. This info clears alot of things up.
Usually paint shop guys didn't work in a body shop. They know their products but really can't give you the most sound advice. If you have ?s about health, you ask a doctor who does it for a living. If you have ?s about body work, you have to ask a professional body man who actually does it for a living. Glad this video helped you out :)
Love your videos. Straight forward, no B.S. bodywork.
Thanks TG - I appreciate that. Happy New Year :)
This is great, I keep on getting directions all over the board, this helps me, an amateur, thank you.
You're welcome - ask ?s if needed :)
@@LakesideAutobody I have been around my area and can't find any of the one step primer, my paint job is not going to be a $20,000.00, job but I want to do it myself and think if I have prepped everything the best I can as an amateur it should still turn out decent. What would be the best primer for my experience and where to get it? I do appreciate your help, thank you.
I thought lacquer was gone because of VOCs. I have painted one car myself and used epoxy primer because it took me so long. I could have cut epoxy, sealer and a bunch of Kondar out just by going with urethane. That would have saved some $$$. Everything I learned about painting came for books. This was way before the interwebs and UA-cam.
It's still around in many states :)
Well, this clears things up a lot! Thanks :)
That video was just what I needed! Thanks so much 👍
Glad it helped - thanks for watching :)
Again, made a confusing topic easy to understand.
Thanks for the support Gary :)
You taught me another valuable lesson today. I'm ordering lacquer primer.
You'll like it. Thin it with lacquer thinner, throw what's left in the cup right back in the can. 1 gallon will last forever!
Thank you!!!!! finally a good video. got to the point and very informative
You're welcome - glad it helped :)
Thanks for the video. Am 65 now, I begin when I was 11, wet sanding, primer and red putty. And in the shop was always a spray gun with lacquer primer, only stir with a stick, and spray. On those days you can find a variety of lacquer thinners, from very fast to very slow. And a Lacquer retarder to make a Lacquer primer Sealer, that lays down the finish like a polish surface. Everything change, but I still remember those years. Thanks.
You're welcome - it's funny to ear those stories - must have been the same in every shop. Have a good weekend RM. Hey wasn't there R&M paints/primers?
This video answered my questions. Thanks
👍✌
Lacquer primer - how did it get such a black eye? It was all I had in the 70s. Gray, red and black, in the wide-mouth gallon cans. It is VERY easy to drop several hundred dollars at the paint supplier, so I am thankful any time I can use every bit of a product. Being able to keep it in the gun while I work is great too! Thanks for another great video Jerry!
It was common to have a dedicated primer gun with primer in it all the time. When the gun sputtered and refused to spray just clean the tip and go. Oh... and poke away at the little vent hole on the top of the gun (caked w/ primer) 😊
Good explanation on primers. Thanks
Glad it was helpful - thanks for watching :)
Great video! Great info that most stores or paint companies won't tell you. No wonder this has 900 likes! Thanks Jerry!
You're welcome RR - always good to hear from you my friend :)
Thank you Jerry, direct and to the point! 😊
Thanks JRS - nice to hear from you. Have a good weekend and thanks for checking it out. Congrats on getting over 1K subs :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you Jerry...It's been chaos around here lately, but planning to get back on the T-Bird asap.
@@J_R_Shop 👍🛠
Wow. Your advice is straight from the body shop, I get it. Worked at G.M. and Chrysler for 33 years in paint and the paint hospital on the lines(Supervisor for final shipping, 19 years). I get it! And you're nailing it.
Thanks for the kind, supporting words Terry. Good to hear from someone with that many years working in the industry. Happy New Year 🎉
Also, sorry if my math is off, lol....33 years total at the big 3, let's puts it that way. Throught the years, G.M,CHRYSLER, INTERNATION HARVESTER.. From stamping to final finish.... out the door. Not bragging by any means, but I watch your work. You Sir are a metal surgeon.🙏👍
@@terryvuylsteke2434 Thanks for the support my friend. I like International Harvester - I like wearing old farm hats for some reason and have one that says Case/IH. I like all those old tractor names - Case, Oliver, IH, Allis-Chalmers, MF - awesome. My grand dad used to farm soy beans and corn - it was always a treat to run around the farm. Watch out for the electric fences and cow pies though! Happy New Year Terry 🎉
Great video. Well done. Keep up the good work
Thanks Brad - Happy New Year :)
Ive been using lacquer primer because of this channel and loving it…..it so much easier-to use than the rustoleum primer can spray
You'll always love it - it has been the go to primer for more than 50 years :)
Great video 🤝well explained
Thanks SWC - Happy New Year to you and your family 🎉
@@LakesideAutobody same to you and yours Jerry 🤝
Thank you!!!!!
Thank you, that was very informative.
You're welcome - thanks for checking it out - enjoy the weekend :)
Very very helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome :)
Great Info......THANKS!
You're welcome Alan - Happy New Year 🎉
Awesome Video Jerry! Can you do a short video on filters/strainers for paint, primer and sealers? The micron size or mesh equivalent to use with paint and with primers. What do you use for each? Thanks Buddy!! Happy New Year!!
Thanks Danno - I'll write that down and get to it sometime this New Year. Thanks for always watching and the support - Happy New Year :)
I sprayed LOTS of Dupont 80S red oxide back in the 1970's and 80's..... Most of the time thinned with 3608S, but occasionally used 3602S if it was really warm weather.... or a 'cocktail' of the 2....
80S must have made Dupont a lot of money. Probably every body shop used it. Thanks for the input Russ - Happy New Year 🎉
Nice job!
Thanks :)
Thats some good and easy info.
👍😊
Good information .
Very good to know thanks
You're welcome Tracy - Happy New Year 🎉
Thanks for the information.
You're welcome Tom :)
Talked to a gentleman in the Romeo Sherwin and William store after I was told this at my work. I guess it has to do with VOC's similar to California. Last time I was in a Home Depot they still carried Rustolium but that was a bit ago. I believe Sherwin and William owns the Rustolium brand now.
Everything changes. Probably why industry is moving over seas - don't want to deal with the regulations anymore 😢 Bye bye middle class 🤔
Great Video!
Thanks! Happy New Year :)
Thanks for the video! I recently purchased a clean, rust-free bed for my 2003 Ford Ranger to replace rusty one. I live in the rust belt like you and would like to further protect the clean bottom of the new bed from future rust. I was thinking of scuffing whatever the factory used on the underside of the bed (light gray), followed by 2K epoxy primer from Eastwood, followed by their 2K chassis black. After the bed is reinstalled I'll probably hit it with Cosmoline or similar. Do you have any thoughts or better recommendations there?
Nope... that sounds like a great plan. That'll hold up for years :)
Awesome once again Jerry! Many thanks!! Quick question - I use Urethane 2k primer and at times have needed to do a touch up respray on a small area where I sanded through or something. Can I use a spray can 1k primer like Perfect Match (an acrylic lacquer primer) for the touch ups?
Absolutely. I always spray that stuff on the dryer side just in case it doesn't agree with anything underneath. Basically don't soak it with spray bomb primer :)
Fantastic video. How about storage? Can any of them be left in a shop that will be below freezing? I would wonder the same about paint.
I keep 2K hardeners/primers and used paint in a heated shed @ 60 degrees. I don't have a basement otherwise it would all be kept there. The lacquer primer I keep in the garage along with the thinners and reducers - I've never had a problems with lacquer primer and freezing temps. Never had a problems with paints that froze either really. My dad kept it all outside no matter what the temp - never had an issue but that was lacquer/enamel days :)
Dig it!
thumbs up if every time this gentleman say "block sanding" you actually heard "black sanding" ;-)
Great video. I just bought a 1982 porsche 911 in 908 grand prix white and it needs a respray. It had to buy one needing a little work to be able to afford one. I'm petty sure it factory single stage for all solid color early 80's 911's and would want a single stage respray. Since two part urethane primer would likely be the base, would it work well with a water-based top coat? I'm in Illinois as well and may call you and come by for a quote.
I've never used water based top coats but I'm thinking any automotive grade primer will work for you but best to check with the supplier :)
👍🏻Great 101 on primer! It can get very confusing these days!
Thank Michael - Happy New Year 🎉
@@LakesideAutobody Happy New Year’s 🎉
Great information and thank you. I have a question over and above your demo on primers. Doesn’t it make a difference of the type of paint covering different types of prime? Just learning the processes as I go along.
You're welcome. You can put any paint over any primer. There is chatter about urethane over lacquer primer but it's just not true. See this product description - paintforcars.com/product/tci-premium-lacquer-primer-gray/ See product description on this too - paintforcars.com/product/maxx-fill-2k-high-build-urethane-primer-surfacer-w-activator/ If in doubt and you like working with lacquer primer, you can always throw a coat of sealer on before paint but it's really not necessary. Here's a follow up on urethane over lacquer primer - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html It's now been 4 years but I will be doing another follow up vid at the 5 year mark. It's a daily driver too - year round :)
Jerry
Great, informative video. I used a PPG 2K Urethane primer/surfacer and block sanded it. I just ordered a base coat and clear coat from a different supplier. The paint supplier literature suggests If I don’t use THEIR 2K Urethane primer surfacer the risk is on me. Should I be concerned?
Frank
Don't be concerned at all - it's perfectly fine to put other brand BC/CC over any 2K urethane primer.
Hey Jerry just saw this video great information. I have a question for you, are you still able to get all of these products? I'm a fellow Michigan resident and was told they were stopping sales of oil based paints in Michigan and wondered if it applies to automotive paints as well. Thanks again for all you do!
Yes - you can get them. I get them at a local AUTO VALUE auto parts store (Saint Helen) - West Branch Area. Where did you hear they are getting rid of oil based paints? That's actually horrible - I like RUSTOLEUM and those implement paints from Tractor Supply - great for outside projects - cheap too :)
another great video. I want to paint my project car in the garage and want to avoid isocyanates as much as I can. With that said, looks like lacquer primer is the one for me. But what kind of paint / clear coat you recommend that I can use with good results.
Are there any 2k paints with no isocyanates?
Can I paint with Rustoleum and once cure have a shop with a 2K clear on it? will that be any compatibility issues?
OK for the least isos use lacquer primer and paint. I think both paintforcars and TCP sells lacquer paint. The next least is lacquer primer, base coat (no activator) - matrix and nason I know for sure does not need it distributor says so and I've started to spray it that way w/o issues. Then your choice of clear coat - use this mask: 3M 07193 Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly Organic Vapor and a 3M disposable jumpsuit. After your coat leave the shop - put a fan under the garage door for exhaust. Let me know how it goes for you :)
Hi Jerry. This is very simple and very much against what you hear on other channels. An average guy like me has no clue who is right. I have never done body work. I have a bare steel part (1 sq ft) that was lightly coated with clean oil which will end up in an engine bay. I do not have paint guns etc. I have been searching for answers but everybody says something different. Can I do this with rattle cans? If so, can you describe the process with flash times and cure times? How many coats of primer? How long do I need to wait between primer and base coat?
1) clean it with soap and water really good and wipe it down with rubbing alcohol or automotive wax and grease remover. 2) Sand or scuff (red pad) or fine sand paper. 3) prime with spray bomb primer and let dry (couple hours or more depending on the brand 4) Paint with spray bomb engine bay paint or any other spray bomb paint. *** If you want to sand the primer a bit before paint that's OK too to get it nice and smooth or remove dust/dirt. 😊
HEY JERRY ,
HOW YA BEEN , IT'S BEEN A WHILE SINCE I LAST SPOKE WITH YOU AND I'M STILL RECOVERING FROM THE HEART & HEALTH ISSUES I'VE BEEN DEALING WITH FOR THE LAST 17 years . WELL ,
I'M FEELING I'M SOON TO BE ABLE TO START WORKING BACK ON THE 70 BOSS 429 THAT'S BEEN SITTING IN MY GARAGE FOE THE LAST 43 YEARS .
QUICK QUESTION , ARE PAINTERS STILL USING PRIMER SURFACE ( SEALER ) BEFORE THE FIRST COAT OF PAINT . I DON'T HEAR IT MENTIONED
ANYMORE , JUST PRIMER SURFACER .
THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS , STAY IN GOOD HEALTH.
AL.
Yes - it's sort of a choice thing. Sealer can get the car all one color before painting, seal the body work away from the paint in case you might be worried about a bad reaction to very wet paint, fill in any minor perfections, etc. I like it if I'm spraying a dark color as my sealer is a dark grey. Good to hear from you Al - always a pleasure - hope you're feeling well better :)
Nice
Great video! What level sand grit do I need on the panels before I spray urethane primer?
Here's a couple vids that may clear that up - ua-cam.com/video/mApSa0l4euQ/v-deo.html & ua-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/v-deo.html If you have a perfect panel you could just scuff it with a red scuff pad :)
Very well video.
Thanks :)
Lacquer has one significant problem, the lacquer thinner in the primer has a tendency to keep evaporating over time, which means what you see now might not be what you see later. You can block sand lacquer primer and everything looks fine, then paint and clear, and some time later see the imperfections you were trying to hide with the primer because the thinner evaporated further and the primer sank and shrank. With 2K primer surfacer what you see now is what you see 5 years from now, it's hardened with a catalyst and doesn't sink or shrink later on.
Now that kind of talk is what confuses folks :) There are millions of paint jobs that were done in the 70's that still look awesome today - done with lacquer primer - I've never experienced what you are talking about - I heard it on the internet but never experienced it. Here's an example - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html - I'll do another follow up on this truck 3 more years from now - it will look exactly the same :)
Great video as always now what sealer do you use 1K or 2K which is best or maybe you don't use sealer??
I do use sealer sometimes. 1) If I want to get everything one color before painting. 2) need to seal any old weird paint/primer/bodywork away from the new paint. 3) hit all little bare metal spots in one shot I use 1k sealer from Auto Body Master - because it's available locally. That being said I think any automotive grade sealer would work fine for you 1K or 2K. Nothing wrong w/ 1K sealer BTW :)
I got a 1980 Cadillac Eldorado as a high school daily driver and I wanted to spend a chunk of my summer painting her up and removing surface rust/small dents. My question is what the best overall primer is, and if I should use different layers of different primers as that is what many other videos suggest. My main thing is that I really don’t need a show-car. Just something to look decent and keep rust out.
Don't listen to all the noise on the internet, TV and magazines .... You only need one primer in your shop. That is a direct to metal primer surfacer. I like lacquer primer surfacer - sands fast, works well, builds fast, can be sprayed thin or thick and can throw the unused portion back in the can unlike 2K which has to be tossed. Here's you two choices: DTM (direct to metal) urethane primer surfacer or lacquer primer surfacer - simple. UPOL or SPEEDOKOTE is decent stuff if you need to order online :) Ask more ?s if needed :)
@@LakesideAutobody If I use a lacquer primer, do I need to use a lacquer paint alongside it?
VERY helpful video, Jerry, and I've read all the comments as well. But another one for you, which one is YOUR favorite (that you use regularly), and why? Can you apply all types of paints over any of these primers or do you have to stick with lacquer primer and lacquer paints and urethane primer and urethane paint (and so forth)? Happy New Year to you and your family as well!
Yes you can apply any paint over any of these primers. My favorite is lacquer primer because: 1) cheap 2) works 3) doesn't harden in the cup 4) sands easier than any 5) dries faster than all 6) can dump what you don't use back in the primer can 7) Not 2K so no worries about isocyanates If I could save the unused portion of urethane primer, I would probably use that because it does hold up a bit better when trying to bury sand scratches and other imperfections. Ask more ?s if you need - it's an interesting topic for sure :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you again, Jerry, I very much appreciate the time and detail you put in to your response. As always, your information is invaluable!
@@fretsman68 Glad I could help my friend - you're welcome :)
@@LakesideAutobody You explained that you can apply "any paint over any of these primers".
Question: But what happens to the primer surfacer when it is sprayed over various types of paints or primers that are underneath it? Specifically, will the Urethane Primer Surface or Lacquer Primer Surfacer potentially react or bubble up due to the underlying primer or older paint coats underneath these surfacers?
This is a question I have often wondered about. Most of the time, I make a patch repair with Bondo or Evercoat filler and putties, and then spray it with some rattle can primer so that it doesn't rust and to seal the new patch job until the final topcoats with a professional spray gun. There are a plethora of rattle can primers on the market from enamels to lacquers. I typically use an enamel based rattle can primer like Rust Oleum Automotive primer/filler and sometimes professional grade primers like SEM when I have them around.
So, will Urethane and Lacquer Surface Primers that you show in your video cover all types of rattle can primers without reacting negatively in some way?
If they have the potential to react, what rattle can paints work with Urethane Primer Surfacer and what works with a Lacquer Primer Surfacer?
Or, am I worrying about nothing here and all the surfacers will cover any rattle can style primer with no issues? Maybe that's why they're called surfacers!
This is a topic that I find is typically NEVER discussed by any body shop videos online. Typically, the tutorial videos show a rattle can primer being used as I describe, but they never show the label or mention what type of rattle can primer they are using relative to the final topcoats that will be sprayed with their professional paint guns. But, it is well known that you don't mix certain types of paints in the paint world in general as they will react with one another.
Thanks for any input you can offer and sorry for the long post. I wanted to be clear in my question as it's never discussed and I hope you understand what I'm asking!
@@RoadRacingAustin Basically where all the fear comes from is lacquer products. Lacquer thinner is very powerful and sometimes reacts to recently sprayed enamels. It's absolutely fine to spray any paint over any primer - done - period. It's absolutely fine to spray any primer over any old OEM paint also because that paint is completely cured. Where you get in trouble is lets say you use lacquer primer exclusively - and a car comes back that you recently painted with urethane or enamel. When you fix a spot and then try spraying lacquer primer over the enamel or urethane it can lift if you get it too wet. That's huge too "If you get it too wet". You can avoid all problems by spraying your first coat of lacquer primer very dry thus not wetting down the fresh enamel. The rule of thumb has always been - "You can spray enamel over lacquer but you can't spray lacquer over enamel" If you really just want to avoid all problems.... never use lacquer. Simple. Ask more ?s if that's confusing :)
Beautiful illustration on how to properly use body work primer. I appreciate you Jerry thanks 👍
Nice to hear from you Vicshone - always appreciate your positive comments - Happy New Year :)
Before I get deeper in trouble it’s best you help me. I must confess I have no experience with automotive paint. To be honest the primer I used on our 1948 Chevy truck 3100 series is Rust Oleum Auto Body primer, and it looks like this primer isn’t compatible with epoxy or urethane top coat paints. What do you suggest I use as a top coat over this Rust Oleum primer? Lacquer paint?
You can spray anything over that RUSTOLEUM primer. Just sand it first with 320 on a DA or 400 wet sand by hand. You can even use a scuff pad (red) and paint over that.
Hi Jerry- thank you for the great explanation. I believe the 2007 Mustang that I'm working on with my daughter has an aluminum hood. Are there any issues with applying lacquer primer directly to aluminum, and the plastic bumpers as well? Thanks again!
Myself, I have not had issues doing so. In fact when I worked in body shops in the 80's lacquer primer was all there was. They suggest using a coat of epoxy for both aluminum and bumper covers. Again though, I've had good luck with LP right over both - surface prepared correctly :)
@@LakesideAutobody Great- thank you again
Excellent! Right on time for me... I've been asking myself questions about that and the relation to paint and clear. BTW, have you made a vid about compatibility between all those coats? Some say you can't put 2k paint over 1K primer; some say you can't put 2K clear on top of lacquer enamel paint (since it can «boil» the result). But some say it is faisable, depending of the particular paint involved (some brands are compatible and some don't). This is also a difficult aspect of car painting... Thanks!
Glad it helped RB - That's a good suggestion for a video. As for now, do you have a specific question in mind that needs to be answered imediately?
@@LakesideAutobody Definitely... I did some repairs last year in 1k lacquer (from primer to clear coat). I'd like to put some 2k clear on top of 1k clear - that 1k clear is not durable. And I would like to do some more repair that way: epoxy primer, 1k color coat, 2k primer. Can I get away with it? Sorry Jerry... that's 2 questions. Thanks for your kind input.
@@rbelang8331 You certainly can put 2K clear over the lacquer clear if prepped right. Actually you can put 2K clear over anything that has bee painted for a while as long as you scuff or wet sand it first. You won't see the sand scratches in the new clear coat if you scuff with the grey pad (even red actually). If you choose to wet sand, you can get away with anything over 600 and you wont see sand scratches in the clear - I'd use 800-1000 grit myself to wet sand with a DA sander. The old rule is you can put enamel over lacquer but not the other way around.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks very much Jerry...
@@rbelang8331 You're welcome 👍
🙋♂ QUESTION. Can all of them be top coated with any kind of automotive paint or does the Lacquer primer need to be top coated with Lacquer paint and not say urethane or enamel? Your videos are awesome.
You can put any type of auto paint over any type of auto primer. I think that type of thinking came from back when you could spray enamel paint over lacquer paint or even enamel clear over fresh lacquer paint but not lacquer paint over relatively fresh enamel as it would react or wrinkle. You could always put anything over lacquer primer. If you are in doubt, you can always give it a quick sealer coat before your paint - then absolutely now worries. I've never had any issues spraying urethane paints over lacquer primer.
What paint types can you spray over Lacquer Primer?
I’m old but new to painting. I had a rusty steel trailer with patches of remaining paint. I was advised to use muriatic acid to remove the rust, which worked good. Drove truck for 5 days and when I got back the bare metal was surface rusted. I used phosphoric acid to convert the rust, then applied etching primer. Now I’m hearing I need acrylic primer before I can apply duplicolor bed liner. Should I use the acrylic and what process should I have used?
I'm not sure what Duplicolor product you are spraying but usually all topcoats require a primer over bare metal. The steps would be, sand any rust to bare metal, scuff or lightly sand any remaining shiny paint, blow off dust and clean with wax and grease remover or just rubbing alcohol, prime with any automotive grade primer, paint or spray the bedliner. Best to read the back of the can and see if there is any special application instructions - good luck :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you for the response. Do you use acrylic primer over etching primer before paint?
Can you do a video on Welding rusted truck frames?
If I do come across a job like that - I'll surely do one on it :)
Great explanation Jerry. BTW, I'm in Miami, FL. Any idea where I can get those Autobody Master products here locally? I've searched but no results.
Here's all of their products - autobodymaster.com/plugins/tech_manual.pdf Here's their website - autobodymaster.com/index.jsp Finally here is the contact - autobodymaster.com/contact.jsp I'm not sure how to find their products in FL but websites like this can supply you with similar products - www.tptools.com/default.aspx?gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsp6pBhCfARIsAD3GZubQLE9F4gzCZerjnc8aAO0XbWRkX6KiQij5cWxUpSzzLoWJn5N9_AAaArL1EALw_wcB
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry. I like TP tools. I bought my Quincy 2 stage 60 gallon air compressor from them about 10 years ago. Best friggin compressor ever! Runs my blast cabinet and other things effortlessly.
Hey Jerry, Great video. only question is does it matter what type of paint you use over each primer... do I have to use lacquer over lacquer and urethane over urethane or does it not matter?
Great question. I wanted to ask the same thing.
Sorry I'm late on this. It doesn't matter what paint you use over each primer. You can spray anything over lacquer, epoxy, poly, urethane. It's primer. It is meant to have paint (any paint) sprayed over it. If you are concerned about spraying urethane paint over lacquer (you'll hear some negativity on this) throw a quick coat of sealer over it before painting. With lacquer paint, it's always a good idea to take it easy on the first coat because it is the only paint that you'll ever really have issues with wrinkling or reacting to other substrates. As for sticking - there's no worries, you can spray any paint over any primer. Check out page 19 and the instructions for each type of primer in this - autobodymaster.com/plugins/tech_manual.pdf
@LakesideAutobody it's okay Jerry, Thanks for the reply and clarification 👍
Hey Jerry, how long do you usually leave urethane primer before sanding. Thanks Sam
In 70 degree weather... around 2 hours will do. I usually prime something and be done for the day though - leave it dry over night. Gives it time to do its thing - settle into the scratches, shrink up, what ever it likes to do for that time. Then block the next day :)
Great stuff as usual. I wish I would have seen this BEFORE I started spraying Apoxy Primer on my '65 C10. I was thinkin to rough up the Apoxy Primer and do the body filler on top of that. Then, lay down some filler Primer on top of that. What do ya think?
That will work just fine. You don't have to sand it if you just sprayed that epoxy. If it's been a while - like longer than 3-4 days - you can scuff it with the red pad or wet sand it. Regular sand paper usually clogs up when sanding epoxy primer 😊
@Lakeside Autobody Thanks a TON for always getting back to me, I watch a LOT of UA-cam videos for tips an tricks but you're one of the guys I trust
@@paulking6404 I appreciate that Paul. Thanks for watching 😊
@@paulking6404 👍
What about etching primers and weld thru primers? Are these considered specialty primers too?
Yes - they are specialty primers and you won't see them in a regular, high volume body shop. Neither one is really necessary. You can't assure that the area around the weld pool hasn't burned the primer either so it becomes useless. It's best to think of another way to prevent future rust like this - ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
What sort of paint can be used with each primer? Thank you for the informative video.
Any kind of paint can be used with any type of primer. You'll hear stuff about not being able to spray urethane over lacquer primer but not true. Here's proof...... You can put urethane of old paint that is sanded - that's a total given. Well.... since you always finish sand your primer or seal it with sealer, you can put any paint over it. I have always sprayed urethane over lacquer and never had an issue but I do finish sand. I've sprayed urethane over unsanded lacquer primer to - no issues. Lacquer, enamel and urethane can be sprayed over all of these primers - sanded or un-sanded
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you so much for taking time to respond. I’m glad to learn that the chemistry of paint doesn’t conflict with the different types of primer.
Never put lacquer over relatively fresh enamel though - it will lift, wrinkle, etc. The old rule of thumb was... you can put enamel over lacquer but you can't put lacquer over enamel. Lacquer has too strong of a thinner - lacquer thinner is very strong stuff - the strongest actually - it cuts through almost anything - even melts plastic :)@@LooseNut099
No Etch Primer? Cmon lets make it more confusing haha. Great video.. perfect timing since i just finished priming my hood..waiting for good weather to paint it. :)
Thanks Scott - Happy New Year my friend :)
Can filler be applied over lacquer primer ? My dad was a body man from back in the early 70’s I learned alot from him but I can’t remember if you can apply filler over it
Yes but back in the day you were really frowned on if you put filler over anything but bare metal :)
You hear alot of laying down epoxy primer then the Urethane primer. The Epoxy for corrosion protection and the Urethane for building. Are using both really needed?
They are not. Most urethane primers say DTM or direct to metal and that means there's no need for epoxy primer. As stated in the video, if you are going do some body work then park it outside in the weather for months at a time then go ahead and use the epoxy primer - other wise you are fine going straight to DTM primer surfacer.
😎👍 it was Complicated not no more.
I'm painting a 2006 Sierra Hood that was stripped to bare metal. It looks to have a thin galvanized coating over the tin, is there a special primer or process to follow for priming this hood.
Not really - as long as you DA sand it with say 220-320 you can go ahead and prime it with your choice of automotive primer. Use epoxy primer if you are really concerned - stuff sticks very well to aluminum, metal, etc. Then you can coat it with urethane primer surfacer if you want to block sand it. Epoxy doesn't sand well - clogs the paper :)
I'm a guy watching videos on how to paint my car. Is primer shrinkage something I'm supposed to be worried about? I heard it was either urethane or epoxy that I have to wait a whole week for to dry. Is this true?
No. If you do your body work correctly you'll never have problems with primer shrinkage, filler shrinkage, etc.
Do you know what the tractor supply farm and implement primers are considered? They have Krylon or Rustoleum in Red Oxide or Gray Primer and they say to thin it with Mineral Spirits. I have used both acetone and mineral spirits before and both work fine. The Krylon is $59.99 a gallon and about $70 for the Rustoleum.
Not sure what KRYLON is but I'm thinking acrylic enamel or maybe since it's probably implement paint it might be oil based enamel. RUSTOLEUM is oil based enamel. Maybe the TDS tech data sheet on the KRYLON will tell you what it is. If mineral spirits or acetone thins it then it's oil based. If you need reducer to thin it - its acrylic enamel. That might give you the answer too. Let me know if that helps - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobodyThanks. It seems to be a copy of the rustoleum stuff. I notice no differences in the paint thickness or spray. But the Krylon is cheaper. It’s definitely oil based.
@@LakesideAutobodyI saw a guy doing body work using regular bondo but with an additive called “Plastic Honey” or plastic thinner. I tried the USC brand of it and it seems to work great. Have you used it? It thins your bondo and you can make your own 2 part glazing putty if you use enough. It seems to be more cost effective than buying the 2 part glazing putty as a bottle of plastic honey is $20.
I've got an older vehicle and its already in lacquer primer. Would i be safe blocking it down and applying 2k clear for a cheap paint job?
Absolutely. Keep an eye out for any rust underneath - if everything looks good, you'll be fine :)