Watch This Video Before Removing Ceiling Joists or Roof Rafter Ties
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- www.homebuildin... Click on this link for more house framing repair and building tips. Watch this video before removing ceiling joists or roof rafter ties and save yourself a lot of frustration and quite possibly thousands of dollars in home damage repairs. Ceiling ties are important and actually help hold the building together. For more helpful tips and ideas about construction, remodeling and building, watch more of these helpful videos.
Watch this video if you're looking for more information about rafter ties and ceiling joists ua-cam.com/video/VjZssXBUHnA/v-deo.html
Is there a way I could contact you about a question I have about modifying some ceiling joists?
@gregvancom
Thank you for sharing this video Greg. I will soon be placing and LVL over my garage. This is my first time building a garage. Looking forward to it.
You can do it!
I thank u for your time and video. We have woodworm in the loft and i am replacing the the wooden beams with a concrete suspended beam & block system so it will basically be a concrete floor. Your video has opened my eyes to the dangers of not supporting the roof properly. Thanks
You're welcome and I'm glad the video helped.
Wow! Well that answers that. I have a ranch house with a single car garage. I was mussing about installing a 2 post lift for car work. From the underside of the trusses to the floor is 106 inches. I calculated that I needed another 36 inches for the lift to fully extend upwards with a vehicle on it. Removing the trusses would give me that room but, from your very helpful video, I see it is not practical. Thanks! Back to the drawing board!!
Very good explanation, good question and answer. thumbs up.
Keep going Greg these videos are going to take off.
Thanks again and it would be nice if millions of construction folks watched them every day.
Quality videos like yours, they will, then the money will start rolling your way.
I'm ready...
Love your videos Greg. I've worked in construction for a lot of years but sometimes I need a refresher on certain things and your videos are perfect for that.
This video was very helpful to me--especially the solutions that you offered. Thank you for taking the time to make and post. it.
This is what I needed to know. Thank you!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Perfectly explained! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
a 6''x14''x20' is exactly what my structural engineer recommended to remove my rafter ties on a 20x20 garage. It is supported with Simpson CC on 4x posts
Wow, that's going to be one awesome rafter tie.
Thank You for all your helpful videos!! Much appreciated.
You're welcome and thanks for the nice comment.
if i remove the ceiling joist and install a collar ties with sister joist along side of each roof rafters, is that some thing that you've seen work.. We are looking to take advantage of the vaulted ceiling.
Did you ever do it? I’m currently in the process of doing the exact same thing and now I’m a little nervous
Greg, the weight is distributed throughout, not just the center. The entire mass is pulled down vertically while the forces are directed by vector mathematics pushing sideways, too. And, the side force can, indeed, push the walls outward. It's not just a simple matter of the ridge beam sagging in the middle. Leave the joists in place. Separate the double top plate, and temporarily add new 2x's to temporarily tie each left & right rafter set together. Then do the lift. The rafters will not spread out and flatten. And the original ceiling joists will keep the 1st story walls in position. That's assuming the purpose is to get more headroom in the attic so it can be converted to living space.
What is it that we would actually be lifting? I'm trying to figure out if you're simply repeating what I said in the video or trying to make a different point.
@@gregvancom your original premise is not explained clearly. That's why I added, " That's assuming the purpose is to get more headroom in the attic so it can be converted to living space." You stated the queation was "...can the ceiling joists could be removed to add a secomd story?" I'm stymied right there! WHh remove the ceiling joists? is the ceiling too low? if so, the quesiton is "can I remome the ceiling joists and raise them for more clearance?" All that accomplishes is creating more volume in the living area below the attic. How does raising the floor level crate space for a second floor?
And, if the goal is to "...raise the roof," as you quary, then why tear it off and just to rais it. It's small, jack it up! Then slide the prebuilt wall extensions in place resting on top of the top plate. THen lower the roor assembly to rest in their new higher elevation. Maybe if the problem were defined more clearly...as is it's ambiguous. If the joists se raised how does that make more space in the attic (aka "second story?")
@@larrymaloney877 Let me see if this makes sense. They were trying to get more headroom, but weren't planning on raising the roof. That's why I suggested the new ridge beam.
@@gregvancom you've changed the scenario. You clearly state in the video they want to add a second story. Now you explain they want more headroom on the 1st floor. And you did not state the size joists presently in place. Knowing that is important. It's much better than creating a fix when one is not needed. mOr insures the proper fix is prescribed. Lot's of cathedral ceilings and raised roofs are 2x6's. Define the problem accurately and you won't draw attention to bizarre remedies.
@@larrymaloney877 I never said they were adding a second story, I said they were installing a second floor. My interpretation of the information I presented clearly in the video suggested that they were going to add a second floor to the interior of the building, without any intentions of raising the roof, even though I suggested that it could be an option at the end of the video.
I love it. Thank you very much for the information.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Great Video, what if I was removing only half of the roof joists “ for example the kitchen will have an 8 ft ceiling and opposite the kitchen a raised living room ceiling. With most of the opening weight being transferred from the existing ridge to the load beam. Will resting the ridge on a load-bearing beam for half the distance say 16’ would this be sufficient would this work? And with or without collar ties? The last question will the living room outside wall bulge out? Or is the support down the middle sufficient?
The alternative solution to adding a substantial ridge beam is to add purlins to remove some of the vertical load and thrust.
That should work and thanks for sharing.
Can you remove some of the ceiling joists? I have a 15x30 garage that currently only has 3 ceiling joists and I want to put a lift in the middle.could I have just a few ceiling joist on each end?
See if you can find what you're looking for here.
Http://www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/garage/index.html
Conventional framing still needs collars to keep the walls from kicking out. The depth of floor joists vs ceiling joists will affect the ceiling height as well
In this example, collar ties usually won't be required or should I say that I've never seen them used.
very nice
Thanks
In your example you at one point supported the rafters in the middle and showed half of the roof removed. Would it be possible to remove half of the roof?
Thanks for your videos they are very helpful. Concerning the installation of the ridge beam, what happens if the ridge beam isn't long enough for the length of the needed run? Do you have to place a support underneath?
Yes you would need support posts at every place the beams connected.
I think they want a Cape Cod Design. There's some engineering work that goes into the design. The best choice is Greg's choice, which is the beam. One has to put posts underneath the beam, so the door might have to be moved (not sure), otherwise the load of the beam will be resting on the door header. My choice has always been to keep the door out of the way for the post.
I personally am not sure what they want. If they remove the ceiling joists (w/o replacing them with floor joists), they won't have a second floor to walk on anyway. Unless, they are wanting a vaulted ceiling. If so, they definitely need a ridge beam. This is a Building Code Requirement. The choices to support the rafters are (a) ceiling joists, (b) rafter ties, which are slightly higher that the ceiling joists, (c) a vertical wall right smack under the center of the ridge (which requires pouring a footing for the wall on the foundation), or (d) a girder, e.g. ridge beam, as Greg has suggested.
and typically, if i am attaching a sister joist to the existing rafter (current depth is about 5 inches), what size rafter should I use.. 2 by 10, 2 by 8s.. etc
Thank you for this. I have a gambrel style garage and am planning on removing the second story to have more space for a shop. Is there any differences in the way to go about that compared to what you showed in this video?
Yes, but I don't think I have any videos on how to modify a gambrel roof yet.
In order to fix a roof starting to sag, could you add about 12" tall triangle gussets lagged in to the 2x6 and connect 2 of them with large diameter all thread with a turn buckle? This would allow you to turn that 2x6 ridge into a much stronger beam without tearing the roof apart
If it was going to prevent the roof from spreading the walls apart, then yes. I don't know exactly what you're planning on doing, but if you want feel free to send me a picture or drawing and I will be glad to take a look. You can get our email address of the website.
Thanks, exactly answered my question.
+J.B. Eid You bet and thanks for watching.
Thanks! Can I remove one rafter to make room to walk between the rafters for more storage space in my attic? Perhaps support it another way?
I would think so, maybe add blocking. Remove center rafter and add blocks running perpendicular and in between the ones on each side. I don't know if that makes sense and it might not matter anyway, because you might need to talk to an engineer.
Thanks for the information. Very informative. I have a similar issue with a porch I'm working on. I have a 18ft span with 1x4 horizontal joists the entire span holding the rafters in place. I'm wanting to vault the ceiling. Could I move the horizontal joists upward to span 10ft? It would leave some nice exposed beams but make the ceiling appear much higher. I would use 2x6 joists.
It's hard for me to give structural engineering advice, because I could be held liable if the advice was incorrect. I suggest contacting a structural engineer in your area, before doing anything that could cause the building to fall down.
Great video. This looks like my 800 square foot home. I'm looking to replace the well bowed 100 year old 2x6 spruce ceiling joists, with current, true lumber. Most of the old joists have ben butchered by previous renos, and new drywall would never be straight. Lath & plaster all removed. My question is, what is the correct replacement procedure, if I'm leaving everything else intact?? Just do one at a a time , across the span of the house, and progressively work down the length of the house?
Yes, that would work just fine as long as the walls aren't out of level. If the walls are only out of plumb vertically a little bit and is not going to bother you, then feel free to replace one of the time.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the exterior block support walls are square. The centre support walls are solid & square. The Rafters are good 2x6 on 24' centres. But the attic is currently unusable, due to the condition of the 2x6X16 existing ceiling joists. Engineers have approved laminated 2x8X14 joists on lengths over 12', to 14', and under 12 foot spans have been approved for 2x8X14 on 12' centres.
I may pick your brain about the connection from the new joists to the old rafters.....
I'd rather just pull the whole deal and add a story with big TJI's and a truss roof... but that feels like about $80k worth of carpentry. Ugh.
Great videos. Keep up the amazing work!!
Another great video. You mention in your video the purpose of the ceiling joist is to keep the rafters from spreading at the bottom. Would you say the purpose of the collar tie is to keep the rafters tight at the ridge during high winds? Thank you for the videos.
Thanks for watching and yes the collar ties are going to keep the rafters together.
gregvancom So couldn't you remove the ceiling joists as long as you still have collar ties? I wanted to vault my ceiling so it's a few feet higher.
I wouldn't unless you support both ends of the ridge with a post underneath and even than, it may not be engineered enough if the ridge itself is undersized to cary the load.
I agree with Ruben. Collar ties are not rafter ties and don't perform the same function. They are two completely different structural building components.
Wait. He was asking about a second floor. The floor joists would do the job of the rafter ties in holding the walls plumb. Nothing in your answer addressed adding a second floor.
I can't find the reply you're talking about, but yes the floor joist will provide a nice structural tie in the same way a rafter tie does.
I have a question on the rafters. Are they all made the same way? In other words do they start at the top ridge and follow out and extend to the overhang, or whatever you call it. I have several of the overhang areas that have rotted because of a leaky roof that had built in gutters. I was told the rotten wood was going to be replaced but instead they just slapped another 2x6 along side the rotted one and put caulking over it. I think this is unacceptable. In the attic I had insulation removed and it looked like the overhang was a separate piece. But then maybe not. It’s been a big mess.
Yes, roof rafters usually go from bottom to top or fascia to ridge and if you need a second opinion, email me some pictures of the repairs. You can get our email address at our website.
What if you put ties just closer to the peak, could this support the load and prevent the spread?
Maybe on a small roof, but not on a larger one. If you move your rafter ties up to high, they will become collar ties.
hey I really found you channel helpful. I want to raise my roof by 4ft to do a loft bedroom could use some assistance.
+cameo salazar Send me some pictures and I will see what I can do.
+gregvancom okay I'll email them through your link on website.
I need jpegs or picture formats.
Can you take out the middle sticks
If they are not structurally supporting anything, then probably.
Hi love your videos. Wanted to ask if I have a garage that has a four corner hipped roof, it's roughly 21x21 sqft, can i remove the 3 joist that spans from from to back and 2 that spans from side to side?
Probably not or should I say at least I wouldn't, because they are providing structural support.
Great graphic work and information. What if you want to remove the rafters, but keep the collar ties?
I might need a little more info to answer your question. Are you talking about removing the rafters then having the collar ties float in mid air?
No. I want to remove the rafter ties. In my garage I built a sleeping loft. My garage is 14'L x 12'W. There are 7 rafters spaced 23" on center. The loft is 9.5' and three of the rafters are in the new sleeping area. I added collar ties to the three rafters that I want to remove the rafter ties on. Whattaya think?
I wouldn't remove the rafter ties, because they are used to hold the garage together, by forming a connection point between the two parallel walls. Without them the building can push outward. In other words a collar tie doesn't replace the rafter tie. Feel free to send me some pictures of the project in question and you can get our email address at the website.
OK. Thanks
Hello Mr. Greg. I follow many of your clips. I am trynna calculate the common rafter for my building plan. Can you check to see if I have calculate the common rafter right, please? I have a Run of 25ft and I wanna use a Slope of 4/12 because I dont wanna fall from a too stewp roof, so I am using a low Steep roof. 😊. I got 8.33 ft for the common rafter. I can round it up to 8.5 ft. Is that right? I have not add the Over-run or deduct the 0.75" for the Ridge yet.
See if this helps www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/math/roof/index.html
I have a workshop its around 750 sqft and the roof is bad and the rafters are rotting, i was wandering if its possible to just tear the entire roof off and put up new trusses and replace the whole thing.
Yes, you can tear off a conventionally framed roof system and replace it most of the time with an engineered truss roof system.
First off GREAT INFORMATION AND VIDEOS!! I’ve been searching for an answer to my situation.
I have a 20x20 attached garage in my 1960 home. I have a few cracked 2x4’s spanning the garage and no storage overhead.
I want to lower the ceiling and was thinking of using 2x10’s on 16 center attached to a ledger board attached to the wall with structural screws/lag bolts. That was I still have storage above for light boxes and holiday storage and don’t have to 45 degree the ends and compromise the strength of the lumber. Does this make sense? I haven’t found any reference with this and am now doubting myself. Help! I want to get this going. THANK YOU THANK YOU!!
It sounds like it will work and thanks for the nice comment.
Hi love your videos... Ive been searching youtube for info on ceiling joist repair but cant find anything on my situation hoping you could help its a old style truss roof system made with 2x4s real bad termit rot.. Joist spans 20 feet a wall breaks it to 16 feet for living room which needs the repair if i cut on the top plate at the wall will sistering the joist be sufficent... Or should i just replace the whole 20 feet
SILENTMAUINAKA1 If you can send me a picture or a link to a picture of something similar and you can find my email address at our website.
Do you have a video on installing a attic access
No I do not, but I will put it on my list of videos to be made in the future. I realize that doesn't help you right now, but thanks for the video suggestion.
Here's a video link that has an access hole in the ceiling that might be helpful. ua-cam.com/video/6ANStAfn2Hw/v-deo.html
I have a 24 x24 block garage and the roof is sagging and the block walls were pushed out they have been pulled back in the best they can be how can I stop this from getting any worse and make the garage last
I do have other helpful videos website. Click on the repair tab at the top and then click on the framing link for more videos about how to fix some of these problems. Let me know if you can't find specifically what you're looking for.
Yeah I can't seem to find and info on how to do this could.i take to 14' 2x6s and over lap then to make.a.24' rafter tie and bolt and glue them on the over lap there won't be and weight on them I don't plan.on drywalling the ceiling
End of trusses rotted into the gusset area. I live way out and there isn't a contractor for 50 miles. To get one out there is more than I can afford. Is it possible to replace a truss on one side of the roof only (half the truss?)
+Patty Baker Probably not, but if you want to take some pictures and email them to me, I might have a solution.
I have horizontal rafters aka collar ties (house built 1990) connecting each diagonal roof joist (hip roof) in an open attic that was designed to be eventually finished (no trusses, very nice space). can I raise these ties (2 x 8's) one foot up without issue, if i do it one by one, or should I add a "twin" collar tie on the other side of the roof joist after raising each one, to be safe? (the roof peak will be another 2 feet above the collar ties after they are raised). thanks.
Yes, collar ties are used to prevent the rafters from separating from the ridge and can be raised all the way to the top directly underneath the ridge. I notice that you said a.k.a. collar ties, but rafter ties and collar ties are different.
gregvancom oh ok, I see what you mean on Google. these are definitely a whole row of collar ties. thanks!
Question, Greg... the 2018 IRC R802.4.4 seems to eliminate the need for rafter ties and ridge beams for a roof slope of 3: 12 (25%) or greater. Am I misinterpreting this to mean that I can fully remove rafter ties to vault a ceiling without installing a ridge beam, assuming my roof slope is 3: 12 or greater? Can you comment on this?
I think what they're suggesting is that beams, something like a 4 x 10 instead of a 2 x 10 would need to be used for the roof ridge, hips and valleys. I didn't see anything where it said you could eliminate rafter ties, feel free to re-examine it and let me know if I'm making a mistake.
Hi. Can you remove every other one joists. ?
I've taken the ceiling down in an upstairs bedroom. So feels bigger. But would prefer less joists going across.
I would need to know more about the building, but I can tell you that rafter ties are usually spaced 4 foot on center. So in other words, you could have a ceiling joist that is connected to the opposing roof rafters, spaced every 48 inches.
Can you remove only two ceiling ties for instillation of a sky light?
I wouldn't say two ceiling ties, but instead, it's usually acceptable to have ceiling or rafter ties spaced 4 feet apart. It would probably be okay to install a skylight between two rafter ties 4 feet apart.
So im a little confused is it possible if moving a home down the road to remove a existing roof or to cut it back and brace it lets say 4ft?
I would imagine that almost any part of the house could be braced sufficiently enough to move it. I personally have never moved a house or even a section of a house, so might not be the best person to get advice from.
Hi Greg, Great videos!!
I have a house literally identical to your drawing. Ceiling joists are 2X6, and are being replaced, as per our engineer and permit, with 2x8, with some additional support walls.
In order to remove the ceiling joists(without removing the roof), can I use temporary collar ties(2X6), every second roof rafter, (1/3 rule)and then remove my ceiling joists in sections, like 10% at a time?
Is this a standard practice?
If it was me, I wouldn't remove and replace more than three ceiling joists at a time if they were spaced 16 inches on center or two if they were spaced 2 foot on center.
Cheers! I'm going to collar tie the roof above the joists being removed as I go. The existing ceiling joists are 16" on centre, and being replaced with 2X8 at 12" centres. If there's a space at 12" for a joist, it will be placed first, before removing the adjacent old joist. I'm pretty methodical, but this is a new one for me. Thanks again for the vids!
I have a slight mono pitched roofing system, but it’s more or less considered “flat”. My rafters sit on 3 trusses, 2 the length of the exterior, and 1 down the center load bearing interior wall. Those trusses sit on ceiling joists that are inset into the exterior brick walls and that span the entire width of the building. The ceiling trusses are also supported by newer stud walls that run the exterior length of the building. My question is since the roof is flat and not pitched like your example and the weight transfer is seemingly all going down, would removing the ceiling joists between one of the exterior walls and the center load bearing wall (about 11-12ft span) to expose the rafters be a concern? I know the joists keep the walls from pushing outward but wondered if this was a concern when the rafters sit flat on the walls below.
As long as the ceiling joists aren't acting as rafter ties to connect structural components, then it seems like you would be able to remove them, but this is only my opinion based on the information you shared with me. If you want, go to our website, get our email address and send me a couple of pictures of your project for more information.
Will do thanks for the quick reply! Your videos are the only ones that make any (common) sense.
You're welcome and I'm glad they make sense to you, because they don't always make sense to everyone.
gregvancom Thanks again. I haven’t been able to find any examples of flat or even mono pitched that seem to explain what I’m doing. One lady has a video on UA-cam but her rafters and joists are opposite of mine with inset rafter vs joists. Anyway sent you some pictures and mockups via gmail. Hopefully I made some sense :)
Hello just watched your video, have a scenario. roof has a 12/12 pitch removed upstairs celing and wife loves the old ecterior 1x6 sheething and wants to keep it exposed 16oc rafters 2x8 and rafter joists attached to each rafter going across rm. can we take out every third one or 2 one? are all necessary? or 1/3 the length of rafter and put in collar ties. shes driving me nuts I told her we should consult an engineer but would like your opinion thanks.
Most rafter ties can be space 48 inches apart, but if these aren't rafter ties then they shouldn't be removed. If you want my opinion, feel free to send me some pictures, but an engineer would be your best option.
could this ridge beam installation work for a truss attic conversion?
I think this video will help. Don't forget to visit the website, then click on repairs and then framing for more info. ua-cam.com/video/BMSo-avByjY/v-deo.html
Hi I'm building a porch which is 3 metres area. the roof spans2 metres. What size timber would you recommend using for the roof rafters please spaced at 400 mm. Thanks
I really can't provide you with that information, because I could get in a lot of trouble if I was wrong. However, I built a shed one time that was about 8' x 8' and used 2 x 4 roof rafters. Hope that helps.
Thank you for that and I'll use 2 X 4. One more question please why are the lowest row of roof tiles put at a shallower angle than the main roof ? Thanks for the information.
They shouldn't be. Most roof tiles require additional roofing materials or another type of installation product for the first or bottom row of shingles to raise it to the same angle as the other shingles. Try to look around at other buildings in your area to see what I'm talking about.
Could you raise the cross beams rather than remove them?
In some cases yes. If you're referring to ceiling joists that are acting as rafter ties, then they need to stay in the bottom third area of the roof framing. This video might be helpful ua-cam.com/video/D8jxBfrOexo/v-deo.html
What if you only need to cut 2 ceiling joists? (For stairway entrance to attic)
double up theones either side
@@PaulJR36 I cannot provide you with structural engineering information, but I have seen openings for stairs 6 foot wide without any problems.
Thank you for all great infos, I have a question ...
We bought a house with a hip roof, is it possible to make a cathedral ceiling with this kind of roof?
If we want to make a mezzanine office for half the house over the bedrooms so the open living kitchen would have a volted ceiling and a bigger feel is it possible with a hip type of roof?
Do you know a good engineer near Panama City?
Thank you sooooo much
Yes it is possible to make a cathedral ceiling with a hip roof. No I don't really know of a good engineer near Panama City, but it would be advisable to use an engineer in your area. Good luck on your project. I don't advise doing any type of remodeling like you're suggesting without contacting a structural engineer.
I will try and make a video, but it might take a while, so get back with me if I don't make it within a couple months. I think you're basically on the right track, you would probably need to use a ridge support beam and possibly beams to replace your roof hips or at least support them. I have a couple of ideas, but feel that a picture of it might be better than trying to explain it.
It might be possible, but it sounds like something that's going to cost thousands of dollars and might require additional concrete footings. If I was you I would contact a contractor or engineer who was willing to provide you with an estimated cost of the project to give you a better idea of whether or not you will want to continue.
What about 1/2 the roof load sitting on a post over that doorway? Better install a double 2x12 over the door or a steel beam maybe sitting on 4x6's and take the load all the way down to footing...if proper footing is not present then a substantial amount of concrete work and excavating just got added to the cost as well
+ericb studios A post sitting on top of a door header that's carrying any load will need to be large enough to support the weight.
+gregvancom yes, I suggested a double 2x12 (or a steel beam if 2x12 is not sufficient to carry the load) on 4x6 studs down to footing. I'm thinking that would be sufficient just from my experiences with building architecture and what I've seen in the past, although I am not an engineer. I guess we would need an architect to say yes or no...but what do you think? I'm replacing a non-load bearing ridge board tomorrow and all the rafters on one side of a gable and have been thinking about roof loads and how I want to brace the rest of the gable that stays before I start removing structure
If you want to send me a picture and I will try to get back with you tomorrow, since you're starting the project tomorrow. I don't know if you need a post under the ridge if the existing structure didn't have one. I don't see the benefit.
+gregvancom thanks but I'm in no need of advice. I'm sorry but I'm afraid you have missed my point that your video suggested a post positioned over a doorway to hold half of a ridge load. This would never pass. I suggested a double 2x12 door header on triple 2x4 studs which should then transfer the roof load all the way down to concrete footing. All I'm asking is do you think that's over doing it? Either way, the video is incomplete until the door header issue is resolved...
It was hard to tell whether you are asking a question or making a suggestion. Yes you can transfer loads in a variety of different ways, including those you suggested and whether or not it would be overkill would depend upon upon the structure. An 8' x 8' shed yes, a 40' x 70' no.
can you remove just a few? Maybe every other one? I want to remove a few in a 12x20 portable building which has frame set at 24" for walls and ceiling. I would like to take out three of them in the first 1/3 portion of the building.
Ceiling joist usually can't be removed if they are supporting a ceiling with drywall or other materials, but most rafter ties can be spaced 48 inches on center. I would contact the product manufacturer for clarification.
Thank you...That's very helpful information. There's no ceiling, just the rafter ties at 24", so if I remove 2 of them to 48", I think that will work. Thanks again!
rkellum35 do NOT do that without a structural engineers written ok. any failure after u do this that hurts someone can land you in court/jail, or worse, hurt your family.
I have a couple of builder friends that I'll get to look at it. It's a very low pitch...only 12" from tie to roof, but that 12" of space will make a huge difference in the feel of the space. Even to move the ties up 6" would make a difference.
Are 2x6 pretty standard for rafters?
You bring up a good point and they seem to be the most common, but the roof rafter size depends upon the length of the rafter or width of the building. For example I've seen plenty of 20 foot wide garages using 2 x 6 roof rafters, but if it was 30 foot wide it might need a 2 x 10. Hope that makes sense.
What program do you use? I have a SoftCad program but its very automated somtimes and I'm in need of something with more commands to customize small details such as spacing my rafters, terrain moldings and complete frame design. I know AutoCAD is the best but I'm looking for something that doesn't require extensive experience to operate.
Google sketchup and I love it.
Gaby
gregvancom
Thanks for the video and information.
I'm thinking about raising the ceiling in my kitchen from 7.5 feet to as high as they will go (sort of a half-cathedral). But in my case, the kitchen ceiling joists attach to the outer wall on one side and what I presume is a load-bearing inner wall on the other (the wall between the kitchen and the living room). I would only be opening up the area between the living room wall side of the kitchen and the outer kitchen wall, not all the way to the roof peak.
Does raising the roof in this situation present the same challenges (in general) as you mentioned in the video? I just wanted to ask before I spend the money to have a structural engineer assess the situation.
It sounds like it would, but feel free to send me some pictures and a few drawings of what you're thinking about doing and I will see if I can help.
what if the House walls are 24" thick Stone?
It would be hard for me to answer that question, because I don't know how the home was constructed and am not a structural engineer. 24 inch thick stone walls sound like they won't move, but what if they do.
If they do, then I would be the person responsible for destroying a 200+ year old house... no big deal.
Exactly.
What if these walls were six foot thick armor plate steel?
I'm not sure if you're trying to be funny or if you're being rude? I raised the ceiling in a stone house that has 24" thick walls and I was asking a legitimate question. 24" thick stone walls would be stronger than a 2x6 wood framed wall and i was wondering what Greg thought of that... If maybe, we didn't have to worry about the walls getting "pushed out" like he said during this video....Sorry if my question bothered or upset you.
How did poor people make elaborate Open air Homes and Live in Beautiful Homes for years without HIRING a STRUCTURAL Engineer... There are safe beautiful Cottages n Homes with exposed Under roofs , beautifully Painted or stained n not collapsing...Cant you simply reinforce and install beams up higher so you can install Lighting and chandelier or hanging Fans.. ????
i have that in my porch. im pissed
can ceiling tie be replaced higher on the joces?
Here is a link to our website for garage remodeling that might be helpful.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/garage/index.html maybe while you're there check out some of the structural roof framing videos.
I am so bored....I hate quarantine
This video started off kind of confusing if you wanted to add a second story rip off rafters and ties and install floor joist build walls and a new roof over that.
A second story addition will usually require you to build a stronger foundation. Don't forget to check out our website, go to the remodeling section and then home additions and see if you can find anything there might be helpful. But yes, floor joists can replace ceiling joists most of the time.
You install collar ties. Problem solved.
Can you say structural engineer 5 more times.
Collar ties won't keep the walls from spreading, unless they're low enough to be referred to as rafter ties, but you don't need a "structural engineer" to tell you that. Sorry, four more to go.