Was wondering how the hell the quick change went on my machine, thought they'd sent me the wrong one for the unit. Glad I found this vid. Well done! Now I don't have to trash my shop in rage. 😁
When you were explaining the pitfalls of not securing the work in the chuck adequately, you bad left the chuck key In the chuck . Your accent and delivery are brilliant, please don't get injured by carelessness. Now make us bits proud, with a superb project.
Part of the enjoyment of how I make stuff is dodging things at hundreds of miles an hour, and nearly getting my fingers caught in grinders and all sorts of stuff lol I preach safety but avoid it like the plague, I don't complain about big cuts and broken bones. Bigger better lathe being hunted out for next year, more power and more weight needed. This lathe had faulty electronics and the seller was a very devious man. These lathes need brushless motors and upgraded circuit boards to be a really good machine, just a bit lightweight for the kind of things I want to do. Maybe ok for plastics, and small alloys but it struggles on bigger harder stuff. I made a couple of projects with it but it had 2 faults within 2 hours use, it's a shame because I had loads planned with it. But dodgy seller put damage all over the machine I returned and claimed it was me so he didn't have to refund me. So I'm a bit salty about the whole mini lathe saga lol Not in a hurry to touch one of these poor quality machines that could break from 2 hours use. I will get an old rusty one and restore it, or get much bigger modern one. 👍👍👍
You can't run the machine with the chuck guard raised and you can't lower the chuck guard with the key in place. At least that's how it's supposed to work. Until it doesn't. Then ... *DUCK!*
thanks for the video i have the same lathe as your, i bought good cutting tools but they are bit to high to cut corectly maybe this is a good alternative
I got zactly the same qctp! Not good, but better than messing with shims every time you want to change tools. I plan on upgrading to an AXA size wedge-style tooplost in the near future, should be better still. I rarely use the compound slide, so I replaced it with a solid steel block, much more rigid setup.
Like others; I also purchased one of these units for my new then, LMS hi-Torque mini lathe. As an experienced machinist of over 40 years practicing, owning own business felt acquainted with practical use of this type tool post and holders. After the install, I had massive complications with chatter, no matter the material type or tooling. After investigation I discovered the tool post to QTC holder mating surfaces were not even close to parallel, plus the variation between the 2 positions on tool post. In order to prove this to myself, I installed a series of threaded Lok-n-Stitch aluminum pins, then machined to proper clearances in my mill. This did eliminate the chatter, but still had complications when cutting steel materials at a .020" removal rate; regardless of speed or tooling materials. I purchased a good quality Steel QTC Wedge Type tool post with holders and have Zero complications. I make all of my own QTC tool holders at home in my mill so that I may have many tools mounted, set and ready for "drop in" usage. As quoted by Joe Pie; "Buy Nice or Buy Twice"! It seems China has No Quality Control, specially on the cheaper priced items-no surprise. In my opinion; the Button Type tool post is of lessor quality in comparison the the Wedge Type that exerts full pressure on the full height of the tool holder.
Thanks dude trying to decide whether to buy the wedge style or that styling your video for much cheaper just to get started on my mini lathe I think I'll go with the cheaper one for now and see if my Lathe holds up
You should never leave a chuck key in your chuck. When using a chuck key, never let it out of your hand always take it out. Never let go of it until you lay it down. You also have the wrong jaws in your chuck for what you were doing. Hope this helps
Search u tube on lathe speeds on different metals . Brass, aluminium ,mild steel, stainless steel all machine at various speeds. I have never needed to go over 750 - 800 rpm on all metals mentioned. Good luck in the steep learning curve
I assume you mean the outside jaws rather than the inside jaws. For a little more cash he could have got the 4-jaw chuck. He says he's spent a grand on the machine. WTF? I can get them for less than half that price - including many extras! In fact I did! I've ended up with a couple of sets of carbide welded or insert tools and 2 different types of quick change post sets (not compatible to each other) including the one shown here. Ps. As if _you_ didn't know; the 'speedo' is an hall effect sensor! On mine, I've noticed that the cross slide can lift on the gib side when run hard. I'll have to look into adding a cross slide lock to cure that little problem. Since virtually all the parts I expect to be machining/making/refurbishing will be for miniature scale steam engines, accuracy and finish are paramount!
This quick change tool post is cheap and it's definitely easy to use. However it's not rigid and has tons of play. Using it for a few years so it was globally good enough!
Thanks from the 🇺🇸 I know now that I will spend the extra $$$ and get a steel one. I actually have no problem with the original one, it's just a little slower but quite stabile. My mini has the tapered roller bearings in the headstock, I couldn't imagine one with ball bearings. Enjoy your mini my friend.
I agree, the original is very well made and solid. But if you plan on long term use, I absolutely advise putting the money towards the steel set, very expensive. Devils advocate.... This cheap QCTP is worth every penny, super cheap, actually works, very handy for quick work. Can wear out over time because of soft material, but if you dont have the money to purchase a steel one straight away, I would also recommend this tool to do you until you can get a steel one. Really not as poor as everyone says, but in no way are you paying for a tool that will last a decade. So for short term, I give it the thumbs up. 👍👍👍
I have a similar lathe to yours, and I bought the same quick-change post. But I couldn't centre it. it was too low, and I ended up having to make a 10mm shim for the base. It never came up to expectations, and I ended up going back to the original tool post. I 'm planning on saving up for a steel quick change post that hopefully won't have so much play in it, and a lot more mass.
Your right on the aluminum quick change tool tool post not all rigid and in fact it’s a piece of junk and i believe i paid around $25 for it at amazon and then went ahead got me the steel aloris dovetail wedge/gib style tool post
Steel turns well between 550-700 rpm on that size of lathe. I use an identical setup and only run above 700 for a very light finish pass. For the price, I have had good luck with that tool post. I do switch between 1/4 and 3/8 tooling depending on what type of stock.
A quick change holder is fantastic, I had a little lathe like that and it was ok as you say. You really need to sort your chuck! You are using the wrong jaws or you have them inserted the wrong way.
here's a little tip on saving your nut breaker wrench: flip it over; because you are putting all the pressure on the tooth instead of putting the pressure on the fixed jaw. I feel like I'm committing nut breaker wrench abuse if I put the pressure on the tooth instead of the fixed jaw. it scares me, it really does. LOL
Yes I know, I stated that in the video. It was new and was just having a sneaky check. I stated it only had 2 mil of grab, but I will give it a blast anyway. Lots of fake machinists like to point that out, it's the most pointed out thing on the video. Its just a drill laying down, but lots of make believe machinists feel like real engineers when they point out the obvious. If only they checked the comments and seen 300 other people say the same thing already lol 😆
Yes, the steel is better as it keeps its shape, the alloy ones are known for deforming and causing CHATTER vibrations on your piece you are turning. But still a very handy bit of kit when it's new. The steel ones fo cost a lot lot more but will last a very long time. 👍👍👍
I have an identical lathe I purchased from china 8 years ago, sometimes mine loses the RPM counter but will come back quite soon after. Only issue I have encountered is shearing a plastic key for one of the gears when I get lock up, 20 minutes to make and replace a new shaft key.
Have you tried cleaning or tightening up your Speedo censor, mine started doing that, and the censor was loose and hanging down too low. There is a replacement upgraded board you can get, it has better electronics, if it's not your speed censor on the left end of the lathe inside the cover, it's probably your board. But you can't complain after 8 years I suppose, mine lasted 2 hours lol
It's proving to be a really fun cool tool, I need a few more tools and I have a surprise project that will be awesome, just got to plan every move I make first.
@@2011zurich that's the exact opposite to what I do on this channel, no practice. Just see it as it comes and deal with it as it comes. Sometimes its things I have done a hundred times. And other times the first I see it is when the viewers see it, so some videos are supposed to be from a NOOB perspective. 👍👍👍
Be careful. You don't want to have so much sticking out w/o using your tail-stock support. Look up what reasonable feeds and speeds you should be using. I have a much larger lathe and only use inserted tooling for roughing. For fine finish I like to use HSS that I grind to suite. You will get better results if you very carefully set the cutting edge to exactly on center. You have the wrong set of jaws in the chuck! Have fun, wear your safety glasses.
Would you say that 10mm tools would be more suited to these posts? I noticed how far you had to drive down the adjusters to get the height right. I've just bought a similar sized lathe and hate the constant changing and shimming of tools. Cheers for a great video apart from making me cringe at 3mm of chuck jaw bite haha. You've definitely helped me make up my mind.
Ha ha ha, it was 3mm grip or 20 minutes changing everything, I had to give it a go lol But yeah 10mm would be good, I ended up buying 12mm really good set and they ended up being too large. So 10mm is about perfect, but this tool is only short term, as the aluminium that it's made from will deform after time. The majority say do not buy, but I bought it, used it and it done its job. And was very cheap So I can't fault it, if it broke, I would of bought another before I would pay the money for a proper steel expensive version. I'm selling all my mini lathe stuff even the upgraded steel hi/low gears, quick change tool post, 1 set of 8mm tools, brand new set of 10mm tools, live tail, chuck tail, dial test indicator, there is more But selling on gumtree right now for £70 for the lot Most of it unused as my lathe broke within 2 hours of use, control board failure.
@@oraclescave to all of you who are considering a mini Chinese lathe. Before taking the plunge take a look at the Myford ML10. No new ones now but very good used ones between £500 & £1000. These are quality machines with non of the low speed/power issues of the mini lathes as the Myford has a traditional back gear.
@@haroldpearson6025 yes I agree 100%. I actually turned down a beautiful myford ml10 for £650 with tons of extras, all the gears, and a cabinet stand. For one of these chinese bits of crap, now for plastic these Chinese latches may last longer, but plastic gears, shady electronics, loose parts/falling off. On top of that I had to deal with the worst company ever that used sneaky tactics to not refund my money. I got my money back through paypal, but was still the worst experience I have ever been through, involving purchasing something. And I could of had a myford that was kickass and still looked as new as the day it was made. GUTTED my next lathe WILL be a myford lathe. 👍👍👍 Oh yeah, and the chinese lathe cost me over £1000 including the tools to use it. CRAZY
I purchased this cheap quick change tool post posts i found this a waist of money too much shatter can not use parting tool due to the shatter. I have changed back to my old tool post.
@@freestyla101 the screw in the bottom of the block is what allows the difference sizes of tools, so it depends on the size of space inside the quick change block. Moving the block is just for better alignment with different shaped tools. But the set screw at bottom of block will just tighten against the tool, so if it's a big tool the set screw will barely go in, and if it's a small tool the set screw will screw all the way in until it grips the tool. So if your blocks have a 1 inch gap where the tool goes, then that's the maximum thickness of tool it can take, you will not fit a bigger tool than the slot can hold.
ORACLE'S CAVE I see. I was more wondering about whether or not I can get more height as my slide to centre heigh is 11.5mm and I have 12mm tooling. I thought if the tool post on the QCTP hung over the slide, I could adjust it below the slide surface and gain a few mm.
@@freestyla101 I would either sand a millimetre of the bottom of the tool, or make an attachment that will fit in your block and then hold your tool. It's really just a block with a thin slot with holes at the bottom for retainer screws. But I dont think you can modify it, unless you sanded it filled away some material from the bottom of the dovetail wedge on the back of the tool holder block.
Do you have a link to this lathe only I’m looking for one that size and looks ideal for my needs, only turn small pieces for replica starwars blasters. Just subscribed mate.:-)
No link, they don't seem to be selling it anymore, the model number is CJ0618. That's the model code for my exact lathe, should be able to pick it up for around £460-ish 👍👍👍
Sounds like your set of cutting tools are too chunky to work with your toolpost. If you think you could make it line up with a different screw, go ahead and try. The only other way would be to mill away some material from the bottom of the cutting tools, and that wouldn't be good. You need a smaller set of tools to work with your toolpost, but if it was me, I would absolutely try changing the screw first to see if I could make it go lower. 👍👍👍
I have a 7x10 mini lathe and also bought the exact quick change tool post. My lathe has performed perfectly for three years so far, but the QC tool post is crap. After a bit of use it become very sloppy and useless. I have gone back to the original tool post and shims.
Yes it's not a long term solution at all, but as a fast get you going tool it was fine, very cheap so didn't hurt the pockets. I actually thought the standard toolpost was very good and well made. Really no need to change it except speed things up slightly. 👍👍👍
@@oraclescave Exactly. I fell into the same trap when I moved from wood turning to a metal working lathe. However once one has figured out which tool need which shims it really isn't a problem with the original tool post. If you take very small cuts with the QC tool post you will be OK for a while until you get your eye in. Also a heads up is to protect those plastic gears as they can split easily. Fortunately my model came with steel gears but my mates one had plastic, and he did have hassles with them. Go gently and carefully and you will have no problems. Enjoy the mini lathe you will be surprised what you can do with it when you work within it's limitations,.
I brought one if the quick change tool posts, absolutely rubbish. No matter how hard I tightened it, during use it would slightly slip causing the tool to dig into the job. Went into the bin very quickly and changed back to original tool post.
Yes original is solid steel and the quick change toolpost is aluminium, but the expensive quick change is also solid steel that's why people pay the money for the steel one. It can't really bend or deform over time like the aluminium one.
@@oraclescave Indeed, anything goes in your workshop. But please don't teach others to do the same. 12:33 4mm in the chuck, with that overhang? Life is obviously a joke for you.
@@2011zurich lol, I was just taking a wee shortcut thats all. And yes life needs to be treated like a joke, or you won't get out alive. 👍👍👍 P.s, you obviously have or use a lathe lol Lathe work and politically correct attitude come hand in hand
Yes its soft aluminium, I purchased one to get familiar with it as I had just spent over £1000 cash to be able to use it, that's a lot in dollars. So I added this cheap extra so I didn't have to faff about with the standard toolpost, but the standard toolpost was great, just annoying to use. I was going to purchase the solid steel version, but my TOY lathe only lasted 2 hours. So I will buy a REAL lathe also As no tooling could make this cheap Chinese imitation lathe work unless it was really modified or used with plastic. Faulty electronics. Bad quality control. Rusted and pitted metal. Out of alignment in lots of places. Very weak motor. Plastic gears all over. Didn't do the turning speed claimed. You would do a better job spinning around with metal in your hand, while someone edges closer to you with a potato peeler. I turned down a myford lathe for £650 in perfect condition with tons of extras for this chinese piece of rubbish. Still it would be good for a child to learn on plastic, but thats about it. 👍👍👍
@@pontiacg445 lol don't tell me, you are a machinist, pmsllf, another idiot that's played with a laying on the side drill for a long long time. You're not a machinist buddy, don't get ahead of yourself, you are a BELLEND lol
@@pontiacg445 whatever REAL machinist, trying to hard to make yourself look clever, foe playing with a sideways drill too long. Jealousy gets you nowhere
someone mentioned that you need to learn how to use the leg it wouldn't hurt if you took a lesson on how how to use crescent wrenches you got them turned backwards
Lol, oh no not another safety Sally. Yes I understand the dangers I sometimes take, but unfortunately for some viewers I dont mind getting mangled now and then for the sake of a shortcut or two. People can learn from my mistakes, because I'm not changing my ways lol
@@oraclescave It's not work the risk. I never secured ladders for over 40 years until one day I stepped onto the one I used to get up onto my garage roof and it slipped from under me. i ended up on the concrete patio with 4 broken ribs, one of which had punctured my lung and by pure luck I was sitting in front of my phone as I was about to pass out from a collapsed lung. 8 days in hospital and a consultant who said I if I hadn't phoned I'd be dead....
Oh dear, not another "MACHINIST" Everybody that uses a lathe thinks they know it all. I know how to ask questions, if I need to find anything out I research it and learn just like everybody else. Its not rocket science, my 8 year old child can use a lathe. It's just funny when all you fake machinists come out of the woodwork because you have used one a few times. DORK
@@jonathansimmonds5784 yes I turned down a minted myford ml10 lathe to buy that chinese one. £650 with loads of extras and a stand with doors. Worst mistake I have made in a long time, I'm also keeping my eye out for a really cheap old one on gumtree. Then I will be back to death defying practices in my gut lol
Yes it's soft aluminium, but it got me using the lathe and it worked perfectly fine. Over time this will become out of shape, but to get you going as a first quick change toolpost and only £30 and it never gave me any issues. So yes a much more expensive steel one would be better, but I never had one issue with this. So keep your snobbery in check lol Saying it's no good means it can't do what it's supposed to do, but this done everything it said it could and done it very well. Considering I had to spend more for first tools than I did for the lathe, this bit of kit was great.
Yes the cheap one is not amazing. But most people buying a mini lathe, do not have the £200, to throw at a steel one straight away. Or they would just buy a £1000 lathe that has everything. My cheap one didn't give me much issues and would have lasted long enough to do some projects while I saved up to buy the steel one. So yes the cheap one isn't amazing and won't last a lifetime, but it is a way of working your way around having one until you have the cash to get the strong one. The original toolpost works great, but very annoying trying to use when you are changing tools a lot. So again, it is worth spending the cheap amount buying the cheap toolpost, especially if you are working on delrin, plastics, or other soft materials long term. So completely steering people away from something that is so cheap and easy to get hold of, is not very good advice from a creator. Unless you are one of these other plebs that has a lathe and thinks they are a full on engineer, which is complete snobbery and goes against makers and creators learning.
Ha ha ha, its the main thing people complain about. I wasn't trying to use it correctly, I clearly stated it was only hanging on by a couple of millimetres, because I wanted to see it going without the hassle of changing everything over just to see it and hear it spinning. It's funny hearing all the "REAL MACHINISTS" pointing out how unprofessional I am lol its a fucking drill laying on its side. Nobody gives a flying fuck if others have had 2 months training on a fucking drill
Was wondering how the hell the quick change went on my machine, thought they'd sent me the wrong one for the unit. Glad I found this vid. Well done! Now I don't have to trash my shop in rage. 😁
I just bought the same quick release good timing to find your video 👍🏻
If you put the inside chuck jaws in you,ll get more holding power on the workpiece .
When you were explaining the pitfalls of not securing the work in the chuck adequately, you bad left the chuck key In the chuck .
Your accent and delivery are brilliant, please don't get injured by carelessness.
Now make us bits proud, with a superb project.
Part of the enjoyment of how I make stuff is dodging things at hundreds of miles an hour, and nearly getting my fingers caught in grinders and all sorts of stuff lol
I preach safety but avoid it like the plague, I don't complain about big cuts and broken bones.
Bigger better lathe being hunted out for next year, more power and more weight needed.
This lathe had faulty electronics and the seller was a very devious man.
These lathes need brushless motors and upgraded circuit boards to be a really good machine, just a bit lightweight for the kind of things I want to do.
Maybe ok for plastics, and small alloys but it struggles on bigger harder stuff.
I made a couple of projects with it but it had 2 faults within 2 hours use, it's a shame because I had loads planned with it.
But dodgy seller put damage all over the machine I returned and claimed it was me so he didn't have to refund me.
So I'm a bit salty about the whole mini lathe saga lol
Not in a hurry to touch one of these poor quality machines that could break from 2 hours use.
I will get an old rusty one and restore it, or get much bigger modern one.
👍👍👍
You can't run the machine with the chuck guard raised and you can't lower the chuck guard with the key in place. At least that's how it's supposed to work.
Until it doesn't. Then ... *DUCK!*
thanks for the video i have the same lathe as your, i bought good cutting tools but they are bit to high to cut corectly maybe this is a good alternative
I, too, was delighted with this quick tool change kit, but very quickly returned to the original holder; good luck.
Yes Jean the original holder might be slow and annoying to use, but it is very well made, really strong and it can't be faulted in any other way.
👍👍👍
I got zactly the same qctp! Not good, but better than messing with shims every time you want to change tools.
I plan on upgrading to an AXA size wedge-style tooplost in the near future, should be better still.
I rarely use the compound slide, so I replaced it with a solid steel block, much more rigid setup.
Like others; I also purchased one of these units for my new then, LMS hi-Torque mini lathe. As an experienced machinist of over 40 years practicing, owning own business felt acquainted with practical use of this type tool post and holders. After the install, I had massive complications with chatter, no matter the material type or tooling. After investigation I discovered the tool post to QTC holder mating surfaces were not even close to parallel, plus the variation between the 2 positions on tool post. In order to prove this to myself, I installed a series of threaded Lok-n-Stitch aluminum pins, then machined to proper clearances in my mill. This did eliminate the chatter, but still had complications when cutting steel materials at a .020" removal rate; regardless of speed or tooling materials. I purchased a good quality Steel QTC Wedge Type tool post with holders and have Zero complications. I make all of my own QTC tool holders at home in my mill so that I may have many tools mounted, set and ready for "drop in" usage. As quoted by Joe Pie; "Buy Nice or Buy Twice"! It seems China has No Quality Control, specially on the cheaper priced items-no surprise. In my opinion; the Button Type tool post is of lessor quality in comparison the the Wedge Type that exerts full pressure on the full height of the tool holder.
Thanks dude trying to decide whether to buy the wedge style or that styling your video for much cheaper just to get started on my mini lathe I think I'll go with the cheaper one for now and see if my Lathe holds up
You should never leave a chuck key in your chuck. When using a chuck key, never let it out of your hand always take it out. Never let go of it until you lay it down. You also have the wrong jaws in your chuck for what you were doing. Hope this helps
Search u tube on lathe speeds on different metals . Brass, aluminium ,mild steel, stainless steel all machine at various speeds. I have never needed to go over 750 - 800 rpm on all metals mentioned. Good luck in the steep learning curve
If I was you I would use the other set of jaws that was supplied with the lathe and watch more u tube videos on how to use a lathe
I don’t think fool has a clue😂😂
I assume you mean the outside jaws rather than the inside jaws. For a little more cash he could have got the 4-jaw chuck.
He says he's spent a grand on the machine. WTF? I can get them for less than half that price - including many extras! In fact I did! I've ended up with a couple of sets of carbide welded or insert tools and 2 different types of quick change post sets (not compatible to each other) including the one shown here.
Ps. As if _you_ didn't know; the 'speedo' is an hall effect sensor!
On mine, I've noticed that the cross slide can lift on the gib side when run hard. I'll have to look into adding a cross slide lock to cure that little problem. Since virtually all the parts I expect to be machining/making/refurbishing will be for miniature scale steam engines, accuracy and finish are paramount!
@@stevesherwin1 Yes, it was cringe-worthy watching it.
@@noidontthinksolol LOL, we know that, but let them jabber on. I use a four jaw on square stock myself as it makes it dead sexy easy to round.
@@crispindry2815 A 4-jaw chuck Vs a 3-jaw chuck more closely relates to a slightly larger lawnmower. Your statement is purely idiotic.
This quick change tool post is cheap and it's definitely easy to use. However it's not rigid and has tons of play. Using it for a few years so it was globally good enough!
Thanks from the 🇺🇸
I know now that I will spend the extra $$$ and get a steel one. I actually have no problem with the original one, it's just a little slower but quite stabile. My mini has the tapered roller bearings in the headstock, I couldn't imagine one with ball bearings. Enjoy your mini my friend.
I agree, the original is very well made and solid.
But if you plan on long term use, I absolutely advise putting the money towards the steel set, very expensive.
Devils advocate....
This cheap QCTP is worth every penny, super cheap, actually works, very handy for quick work.
Can wear out over time because of soft material, but if you dont have the money to purchase a steel one straight away, I would also recommend this tool to do you until you can get a steel one.
Really not as poor as everyone says, but in no way are you paying for a tool that will last a decade.
So for short term, I give it the thumbs up.
👍👍👍
I have a similar lathe to yours, and I bought the same quick-change post. But I couldn't centre it. it was too low, and I ended up having to make a 10mm shim for the base. It never came up to expectations, and I ended up going back to the original tool post. I 'm planning on saving up for a steel quick change post that hopefully won't have so much play in it, and a lot more mass.
Your right on the aluminum quick change tool tool post not all rigid and in fact it’s a piece of junk and i believe i paid around $25 for it at amazon and then went ahead got me the steel aloris dovetail wedge/gib style tool post
Steel turns well between 550-700 rpm on that size of lathe. I use an identical setup and only run above 700 for a very light finish pass. For the price, I have had good luck with that tool post. I do switch between 1/4 and 3/8 tooling depending on what type of stock.
Just have fun . Make chips, scrap parts, make more chips , learn alot and make some cool stuff
i have the same one i had to put a thrust washer on mine to get it to stop moving.
Tip: loctite the height-setting studs into the tool holder body!
A quick change holder is fantastic, I had a little lathe like that and it was ok as you say. You really need to sort your chuck! You are using the wrong jaws or you have them inserted the wrong way.
they are not reversible jaws
here's a little tip on saving your nut breaker wrench: flip it over; because you are putting all the pressure on the tooth instead of putting the pressure on the fixed jaw. I feel like I'm committing nut breaker wrench abuse if I put the pressure on the tooth instead of the fixed jaw. it scares me, it really does. LOL
Nice to hear a Scottish accent!
Thanks Jean- Claude
👍👍👍
It might help if you had the chuck jaws in the right way round!
Yes I know, I stated that in the video.
It was new and was just having a sneaky check. I stated it only had 2 mil of grab, but I will give it a blast anyway.
Lots of fake machinists like to point that out, it's the most pointed out thing on the video.
Its just a drill laying down, but lots of make believe machinists feel like real engineers when they point out the obvious.
If only they checked the comments and seen 300 other people say the same thing already lol 😆
you lucky man love one of those but no room in my flat to put one in
just bought one of these. Was very surprised, that it is made of some kind of aluminum alloy, not steel
Yes, the steel is better as it keeps its shape, the alloy ones are known for deforming and causing CHATTER vibrations on your piece you are turning.
But still a very handy bit of kit when it's new.
The steel ones fo cost a lot lot more but will last a very long time.
👍👍👍
@@oraclescave The obvious solution is to make a steel post. It can be done on a lathe, with a bit of cunning!
I have an identical lathe I purchased from china 8 years ago, sometimes mine loses the RPM counter but will come back quite soon after. Only issue I have encountered is shearing a plastic key for one of the gears when I get lock up, 20 minutes to make and replace a new shaft key.
Have you tried cleaning or tightening up your Speedo censor, mine started doing that, and the censor was loose and hanging down too low.
There is a replacement upgraded board you can get, it has better electronics, if it's not your speed censor on the left end of the lathe inside the cover, it's probably your board.
But you can't complain after 8 years I suppose, mine lasted 2 hours lol
I was binge watching your channel last night and this lathe caught my eye. Looks like a decent machine and looking fwd to seeing it put to use👍🏻
It's proving to be a really fun cool tool, I need a few more tools and I have a surprise project that will be awesome, just got to plan every move I make first.
@@oraclescave ...you should have planned every move you made before making THIS video.
@@2011zurich that's the exact opposite to what I do on this channel, no practice.
Just see it as it comes and deal with it as it comes.
Sometimes its things I have done a hundred times.
And other times the first I see it is when the viewers see it, so some videos are supposed to be from a NOOB perspective.
👍👍👍
Thanks for the video mate.
You are welcome Dogphlap
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Nutbreaker is the polite name for that tool :)
Be careful. You don't want to have so much sticking out w/o using your tail-stock support. Look up what reasonable feeds and speeds you should be using. I have a much larger lathe and only use inserted tooling for roughing. For fine finish I like to use HSS that I grind to suite. You will get better results if you very carefully set the cutting edge to exactly on center. You have the wrong set of jaws in the chuck! Have fun, wear your safety glasses.
Lol thanks Larry.
I was just in a rush to get testing it, had no time for safety
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Would you say that 10mm tools would be more suited to these posts? I noticed how far you had to drive down the adjusters to get the height right. I've just bought a similar sized lathe and hate the constant changing and shimming of tools. Cheers for a great video apart from making me cringe at 3mm of chuck jaw bite haha. You've definitely helped me make up my mind.
Ha ha ha, it was 3mm grip or 20 minutes changing everything, I had to give it a go lol
But yeah 10mm would be good, I ended up buying 12mm really good set and they ended up being too large.
So 10mm is about perfect, but this tool is only short term, as the aluminium that it's made from will deform after time.
The majority say do not buy, but I bought it, used it and it done its job.
And was very cheap
So I can't fault it, if it broke, I would of bought another before I would pay the money for a proper steel expensive version.
I'm selling all my mini lathe stuff even the upgraded steel hi/low gears, quick change tool post, 1 set of 8mm tools, brand new set of 10mm tools, live tail, chuck tail, dial test indicator, there is more
But selling on gumtree right now for £70 for the lot
Most of it unused as my lathe broke within 2 hours of use, control board failure.
@@oraclescave to all of you who are considering a mini Chinese lathe. Before taking the plunge take a look at the Myford ML10. No new ones now but very good used ones between £500 & £1000. These are quality machines with non of the low speed/power issues of the mini lathes as the Myford has a traditional back gear.
@@haroldpearson6025 yes I agree 100%.
I actually turned down a beautiful myford ml10 for £650 with tons of extras, all the gears, and a cabinet stand.
For one of these chinese bits of crap, now for plastic these Chinese latches may last longer, but plastic gears, shady electronics, loose parts/falling off.
On top of that I had to deal with the worst company ever that used sneaky tactics to not refund my money.
I got my money back through paypal, but was still the worst experience I have ever been through, involving purchasing something.
And I could of had a myford that was kickass and still looked as new as the day it was made.
GUTTED
my next lathe WILL be a myford lathe.
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Oh yeah, and the chinese lathe cost me over £1000 including the tools to use it. CRAZY
How are you doing with the new tool post? Is it holding up..? Watch Frank Hoos Videos . Thanks for sharing your experience.
NEVER NEVER NEVER leave the chuck key in the chuck!!!
And helps if you turn your chuck jaws around!
Yes the jaws need to be switched around.
Does this guy's elevator go to the top floor?
Yes and then some,lol
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I purchased this cheap quick change tool post posts i found this a waist of money too much shatter can not use parting tool due to the shatter. I have changed back to my old tool post.
Do your tool posts hang over the compound slide?
Yes
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Enough so that when they’re parallel you can lower the tool holder below the top of the slide. Meaning you can use larger than usual tools.
@@freestyla101 the screw in the bottom of the block is what allows the difference sizes of tools, so it depends on the size of space inside the quick change block.
Moving the block is just for better alignment with different shaped tools.
But the set screw at bottom of block will just tighten against the tool, so if it's a big tool the set screw will barely go in, and if it's a small tool the set screw will screw all the way in until it grips the tool.
So if your blocks have a 1 inch gap where the tool goes, then that's the maximum thickness of tool it can take, you will not fit a bigger tool than the slot can hold.
ORACLE'S CAVE I see. I was more wondering about whether or not I can get more height as my slide to centre heigh is 11.5mm and I have 12mm tooling. I thought if the tool post on the QCTP hung over the slide, I could adjust it below the slide surface and gain a few mm.
@@freestyla101 I would either sand a millimetre of the bottom of the tool, or make an attachment that will fit in your block and then hold your tool.
It's really just a block with a thin slot with holes at the bottom for retainer screws.
But I dont think you can modify it, unless you sanded it filled away some material from the bottom of the dovetail wedge on the back of the tool holder block.
Do you have a link to this lathe only I’m looking for one that size and looks ideal for my needs, only turn small pieces for replica starwars blasters. Just subscribed mate.:-)
No link, they don't seem to be selling it anymore, the model number is CJ0618.
That's the model code for my exact lathe, should be able to pick it up for around £460-ish
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Nice one, cheers mate.:-)
7x14 lathe now with 32mm spindel bore
@t
Leaving the Key in the chuck is a sackable offence !!!!. Never give up !!!
But it's awesome for reflex testing 😆 🤣 😂
Your using the wrong jaws in the chuck, these are for clamping the outside of your LARGER pieces. Use the other set for smaller items. B
Its aluminium or metal?
Aluminium, not very solid.
@@oraclescave so its good or no?
@Lorenzo Valčić not really good, causes vibration
@@oraclescave so its good or no?
@@valcic1993 no
Can you change the screw for the tool clamp where it allows for height adjustment? Because I need my tool to be way lower
Sounds like your set of cutting tools are too chunky to work with your toolpost.
If you think you could make it line up with a different screw, go ahead and try.
The only other way would be to mill away some material from the bottom of the cutting tools, and that wouldn't be good.
You need a smaller set of tools to work with your toolpost, but if it was me, I would absolutely try changing the screw first to see if I could make it go lower.
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I have a 7x10 mini lathe and also bought the exact quick change tool post. My lathe has performed perfectly for three years so far, but the QC tool post is crap. After a bit of use it become very sloppy and useless. I have gone back to the original tool post and shims.
Yes it's not a long term solution at all, but as a fast get you going tool it was fine, very cheap so didn't hurt the pockets.
I actually thought the standard toolpost was very good and well made.
Really no need to change it except speed things up slightly.
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@@oraclescave Exactly. I fell into the same trap when I moved from wood turning to a metal working lathe. However once one has figured out which tool need which shims it really isn't a problem with the original tool post. If you take very small cuts with the QC tool post you will be OK for a while until you get your eye in. Also a heads up is to protect those plastic gears as they can split easily. Fortunately my model came with steel gears but my mates one had plastic, and he did have hassles with them. Go gently and carefully and you will have no problems. Enjoy the mini lathe you will be surprised what you can do with it when you work within it's limitations,.
If you still want to go the quick change route, I would look into the wedge type tool posts. It's a much more rigid mechanism.
is this 240v or 180v
It is nut rounder not a nutbraker ;)
It's actually NUT FUCKER here in Scotland, but I was trying to be polite for the viewers.
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I brought one if the quick change tool posts, absolutely rubbish. No matter how hard I tightened it, during use it would slightly slip causing the tool to dig into the job.
Went into the bin very quickly and changed back to original tool post.
Are these made of aluminium by the way?
Yes original is solid steel and the quick change toolpost is aluminium, but the expensive quick change is also solid steel that's why people pay the money for the steel one.
It can't really bend or deform over time like the aluminium one.
🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂 love it
You need to change your chuck jaws!
Lol, everyone says that, even though I said that in the video.
TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE CHUCK, TO LEAVE IT IN THE CHUCK IS A SACKABLE OFFENCE IN ANY PRO WORKSHOP!!!!
Lol anything goes, in my workshop.
@@oraclescave Indeed, anything goes in your workshop. But please don't teach others to do the same. 12:33 4mm in the chuck, with that overhang? Life is obviously a joke for you.
@@2011zurich lol, I was just taking a wee shortcut thats all.
And yes life needs to be treated like a joke, or you won't get out alive.
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P.s, you obviously have or use a lathe lol
Lathe work and politically correct attitude come hand in hand
i have this toolpost and tools, toolpost its made from some aluminium alloy and its more like toy than a tool
Yes its soft aluminium, I purchased one to get familiar with it as I had just spent over £1000 cash to be able to use it, that's a lot in dollars.
So I added this cheap extra so I didn't have to faff about with the standard toolpost, but the standard toolpost was great, just annoying to use.
I was going to purchase the solid steel version, but my TOY lathe only lasted 2 hours.
So I will buy a REAL lathe also
As no tooling could make this cheap Chinese imitation lathe work unless it was really modified or used with plastic.
Faulty electronics.
Bad quality control.
Rusted and pitted metal.
Out of alignment in lots of places.
Very weak motor.
Plastic gears all over.
Didn't do the turning speed claimed.
You would do a better job spinning around with metal in your hand, while someone edges closer to you with a potato peeler.
I turned down a myford lathe for £650 in perfect condition with tons of extras for this chinese piece of rubbish.
Still it would be good for a child to learn on plastic, but thats about it.
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@@pontiacg445 lol don't tell me, you are a machinist, pmsllf, another idiot that's played with a laying on the side drill for a long long time.
You're not a machinist buddy, don't get ahead of yourself, you are a BELLEND lol
@@pontiacg445 up yours
@@pontiacg445 whatever REAL machinist, trying to hard to make yourself look clever, foe playing with a sideways drill too long.
Jealousy gets you nowhere
someone mentioned that you need to learn how to use the leg it wouldn't hurt if you took a lesson on how how to use crescent wrenches you got them turned backwards
That's why we call shifting spanners, NUT FUCKERS
I never pay attention to which way round it is, it's just the go to universal spanner
these tool posts suck , dont buy one , they are made of Ali , they wear out really fast .
We can supply you this tool post,we are manufacturer in China.
I no longer have this lathe, my lathe stopped working.
I need another lathe.
@@oraclescave If you have any interesting,please contact me.I will send you our catalogue.
@@Toolsmanufacturer Excellent I would appreciate that, and I will share with all my viewers.
Thank you.
Have your chuck jaws backwards.
No the jaws were in correct, it was the lathe that was backwards lol
Oh jings! It's just too scary to watch, you really do need to take heed to what folks are sayin' aboot safety issues pal....
Lol, oh no not another safety Sally.
Yes I understand the dangers I sometimes take, but unfortunately for some viewers I dont mind getting mangled now and then for the sake of a shortcut or two.
People can learn from my mistakes, because I'm not changing my ways lol
@@oraclescave It's not work the risk. I never secured ladders for over 40 years until one day I stepped onto the one I used to get up onto my garage roof and it slipped from under me. i ended up on the concrete patio with 4 broken ribs, one of which had punctured my lung and by pure luck I was sitting in front of my phone as I was about to pass out from a collapsed lung. 8 days in hospital and a consultant who said I if I hadn't phoned I'd be dead....
Do you know what your doing ! Material, Feeds and Speeds?
Oh dear, not another "MACHINIST"
Everybody that uses a lathe thinks they know it all.
I know how to ask questions, if I need to find anything out I research it and learn just like everybody else.
Its not rocket science, my 8 year old child can use a lathe.
It's just funny when all you fake machinists come out of the woodwork because you have used one a few times.
DORK
Nae wabble?? The whole fecking lathe wobbles! Get the bloody thing bolted doon hen!
Ha ha ha, it didn't last long enough to get bolted down.
2 hours use max then had to be returned.
Shame coz it was a decent little bit of kit.
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@@oraclescave I bought a 50 year old Grayson in bits in a box for £50, lovely solid little lathe, will outlast me!
@@jonathansimmonds5784 yes I turned down a minted myford ml10 lathe to buy that chinese one.
£650 with loads of extras and a stand with doors.
Worst mistake I have made in a long time, I'm also keeping my eye out for a really cheap old one on gumtree.
Then I will be back to death defying practices in my gut lol
@@oraclescave Keep lukin' yon auld ains are the best!
Scottish is good!
It's made of soft aluminum not good
Yes it's soft aluminium, but it got me using the lathe and it worked perfectly fine.
Over time this will become out of shape, but to get you going as a first quick change toolpost and only £30 and it never gave me any issues.
So yes a much more expensive steel one would be better, but I never had one issue with this.
So keep your snobbery in check lol
Saying it's no good means it can't do what it's supposed to do, but this done everything it said it could and done it very well.
Considering I had to spend more for first tools than I did for the lathe, this bit of kit was great.
Don't waste your money on this QCTP, they are rubbish. Buy a steel wedge QCTP.
Yes the cheap one is not amazing.
But most people buying a mini lathe, do not have the £200, to throw at a steel one straight away.
Or they would just buy a £1000 lathe that has everything.
My cheap one didn't give me much issues and would have lasted long enough to do some projects while I saved up to buy the steel one.
So yes the cheap one isn't amazing and won't last a lifetime, but it is a way of working your way around having one until you have the cash to get the strong one.
The original toolpost works great, but very annoying trying to use when you are changing tools a lot.
So again, it is worth spending the cheap amount buying the cheap toolpost, especially if you are working on delrin, plastics, or other soft materials long term.
So completely steering people away from something that is so cheap and easy to get hold of, is not very good advice from a creator.
Unless you are one of these other plebs that has a lathe and thinks they are a full on engineer, which is complete snobbery and goes against makers and creators learning.
Buy Cheap buy Twice and I am a retired Chartered Marine and Mechanical Engineer so I think I know a little bit about Engineering @@oraclescave
Unsafe with incorrectly held workpiece and high RPM. He should certainly watch UA-cam's to gain experience. But then we all have to start somewhere
Lol zero fucks given in my workshop
It just shows that you don’t understand lathes and your not an engineer
Lol I bet you are, it's just a fucking drill
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wrong jaws, and many many bad and wrong mistakes, hurts just to look at.
Ha ha ha, its the main thing people complain about.
I wasn't trying to use it correctly, I clearly stated it was only hanging on by a couple of millimetres, because I wanted to see it going without the hassle of changing everything over just to see it and hear it spinning.
It's funny hearing all the "REAL MACHINISTS" pointing out how unprofessional I am lol its a fucking drill laying on its side.
Nobody gives a flying fuck if others have had 2 months training on a fucking drill
its junk
A quick fix but doesn't last too long, but definitely worth the price.
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