As always, well presented and informative! One comment: As mentioned by another viewer, the compacting roller attachment must be operated in the 'float' position to be effective. Too much down pressure effectively reduces the compaction force, increases wear and tear and will over time destroy the roller mounts.
My love of 46 years and I have decided that you are our favorite channel, followed by Farm Craft 101, 10th generation Dairy Farmer. I really enjoy your explanations of why an how you analyze problems and execute solutions. Your brief inclusions of family and your animals makes it even more enjoyable. Keep up the great work Jesse!
@@netts2315 I’m an original big Andrew fan but recently beginning with the roller up the mountain series have been wondering how much is being created for views. My wife who was a big fan expressed so many WTF moments at 68 years old… she was totally turned off. Keep it real, don’t create. Still supporting Andrew with $ when reality is apparent.
@@CranialAccess I'm not sure anyone would be willing to jump out of moving roller for views for example, but I get your point. I think it's just a combination of unfortunate events and sketchy equipment & sketchy ways of handling stuff. Have a great day!
Leave the skid steer in float mode. It is like an air chisel. If you put too much down pressure on it, it is less effective. You need the up/down vibration for it to work properly.
Nice job Jesse modifying that roller. You do good work. I’ve only done construction a few years but I can tell you have an attention to details which makes all the difference in the world compared to many people in the same industry 👍🙂 Most people would just leave the lines in the gravel and not care how it looks.
I do not have one of these so I am not an expert or anything. That said, looking at both the owners manual for the AGT and the "more expensive version" from Spartan (this manual has more information on the "oil" needs), the grease fitting that just came out on you at 27:18, the other end of the drum that does not have the hydraulic motor, is not a grease fitting, but a "forced filling oil cup M8x1" and says that there are 3 of them (likely the "grease" nipples on the motor side since the motor prevents you from getting to the end of the "welded vibration shaft". Spartan uses a 90 degree elbow there, connected to an inline check valve and breather plug. AGT labels the bearing covers and seals as "cover oil seal" and "oil seat" on both ends of the "welded vibration shaft". Spartan has similar seals on both ends that are labeled as "oil seal". Now Spartan goes into more detail on checking, filling and changing the oil, saying "check oil level in roller shaft" every 100 hours by "remove 90 degree elbow with fittings in the cover plate. Oil level is sufficient if the oil is up to the fill hole. If the unit is level and the oil is not visible, add as required." Every 500 hours of operation the oil should be changed with an 80-90 weight gear lube. They also give approximate oil requirements for their 48", 66", 73" & 84" rollers of 1.38, 2.00, 2.13, & 2.50 quarts respectively. So I think one of the issues everyone is having is that the "welded vibration shaft" is supposed to be lubricated with gear oil by partially filling the tube it spins in and the bearing behind the motor and that grease is likely way to thick to do the same job and you wouldn't have any idea how much to put in. That is just my understanding from looking at both manuals, again, not an expert or anything, but that is my take on it. Great video and lots of great work done there to get this thing working on your machine. Would be interested to see or hear your thoughts on the above "ridiculously long winded comment" and if this helps, see a part 2 with if this helps things. Anyways, have a good one!!👍
Why did you find out? I have the same roller and have been running it for 2 years now. I was recently told it needs oil but can’t see any fill point… when I bought it, there was no UA-cam content, So thank you for this video!! Please let me know what you found. Also mine started smoking yesterday and looks like I need to replace the love-joy connector. Got that info from another UA-cam video. 😁
Jesse, Some of your best post-fabrication custom engineering yet. I should know I worked for Cat Custom Engineering, Fork Lift Trucks back in the day in Mentor, Ohio. -Stephen
I think that the bent backplate ends at min 45:50 are like that with the purpose of functioning as a spring, in order not to let the roller pivot too freely around the axis. The "spring" tension was adjusted by adding shims. It would have been a good idea to grind and round the edges of the backplate so that they don't "dig" into the end caps. Also, I don't think it's a good idea to put grease between the roller and the backplate, because over time it will act like a grind paste in combination with dust and sand.
What’s up bro. Love watching your videos. Like how you explain as much as you can for people that don’t know much about construction and other things you do. Keep the videos coming.
I would suggest grinding a chamfer on the edges of the plate that were cutting into the retaining clamps in addition to straightening the warp, there is a lot of room for improvement on this attachment.
I find you can sometimes get decent deals with stuff like this... They aren't turnkey but with a few mods and improvements you can get a decent end result for low money. Plus you learn how it works for later repair and maintenance. I find some stuff from harbor freight like this... You can buy it new for cheaper than you could make it... but then need to do a little to fine tune to get it to work well. I think you should have left the grease out in between the plate and roller as I think its just asking for it to get gooey and bind up with dirt and debris where as dry I think it would just fall out easier. I think maybe like a plastic or teflon type sheet in between would be good to keep tight tolerance for less slop and tension on the main round swivel bushing yet still allow it to freely tilt. Great video Jesse.. I think that parking lot came out fine
I think a couple of items might help its longevity: Be careful of the down pressure. If it torques the bushings that much, that could cause premature wear and failure of the shaft/bushings. Also the speed of the rotation of the drum not matching the speed of the skidsteer might cause extra pressure on the shaft, bushings and motor seals. Of course I could be crazy and not have a complete thought in my head. Good video though!
Hey Jesse, great video. I have the same roller and burnt up the lovejoy connector twice before figuring out that it needs an inline flow regulator to keep the motor from going over speed. The “new” ones from china mostly have them now. I figured this out once I bought a used one from Bobcat. You can go look at pictures of those and you will see a small square block that the hoses go into. As far as oil, it depends on the maker. I have seen that some use oil and others don’t. That might be the “cheap” way they regulate motor speed. Hopefully that helps! I am working on my rebuild video of mine as well. I was lucky enough that I was just able to flush mount those bolt on the pivot point to make it work with my cat. But I also figured that out too late as it destroyed my quick coupler the first time I used it. I also needed to add a grease coupler to that as it really needs to be greased.
@@jmuller86 it seems to still hit decently hard. At some point the high rpm’s start to hurt the compaction, but I don’t know what that number is yet. My big sheep’s foot compactor says it runs at “1200” and can be adjusted based on what the soil engineers call for.
@@jmuller86 it should be at the flow where it has te most resonance. That flow can be lower or higher then it does now. Maybe playing a bit with the throttle of the loader will help a lot.
@@jaboy123 you need a pressure compensated flow control valve with at least 1/2 inch ports. When you have a highflow machine ( 15 gpm/ 60 liters a minute) you need 1 size larger, wich is 3/4 inch.
Jess, I have noticed 3 things that I would not do. One is run the roller lifting the front of the skidsteer off the ground. For sure the 8 vibration rubber dampeners are not made to support that type weight thereby allowing the top of the roller to rub the top of the back plate. Second do not put all the grease between the skidsteer mount ant the swivel part of the roller. In a few months of use you will have built up the best valve grinding compound money can buy between the 2 steel plates. Third, don't make the clearance between the mount and the swivel plate too tight. That center pin and funky plastic bushing will take a lot of racking back and forth from normal movement and going from forward to reverse. None of this advise may be worth listing to but.......
The manual says to lift the front of the skidsteer off the ground a few inches to transfer the most amount of weight to it, and yea I may have to revisit and take that grease off. Thought about that afterwords
@@1foreman Turns out, it depends on the model of roller used, some of these you are even supposed to lift the front wheels of the skid-steer off the ground under operation. I guess Read the owners manual, and not random UA-cam comments is a thing.
I know this is so old, but the holes you line up with the grease points, so you didn't need to cut off that part. And for running the roller, you just lightly set it on the ground, you need to find the sweet spot where the drum bounces rapidly and makes contact with the ground. Dont put any weight on it or you will rip those bushings off. I'm sure you figured all of this out, like I did, haha. edit: also it works better on dry material. water doesn't compress.
Even the best hydraulic motors needed a k strain. The amount of oil that returns bypassing is part of the technical documents, so when the motor works properly then the returning flow of oil will be some ounces. By the way, I am working as hydraulic engineer for more than 30 years now. Cheers from Germany 👍🇩🇪😎
I've seen a good number of machine tools (lathes / mills etc) damaged by inserting grease where they should have been inserting oil. The zerk fitting looks like it is a grease zerk, but it's not. Inserting grease does not reach the bearing surfaces and ends up blocking the oil paths. I think maybe one of the bearings overheated during rolling the car park, and when you took a rain break maybe the grease melted and lubed the bearing. You may have to flush out the grease and get an oil pump instead. Hopefully one of your followers has a proper manual that lists the oil type to use as that is also important
@@BWIL2515 It sure looks that way, but without a proper user manual it's only a guess on my behalf, but I'm pretty sure it is the issue. I reckon that Jesse has over-heated one or possibly more of the bearings, hopefully it's not cooked it too much and flushing out the grease and replacing it with the correct oil will salvage the situation without replacing them. I'm assuming that the others that purchased this roller and had similar issues had used grease as well. I can understand the mistake as the user manual was not specific enough for me. AFAIK in all construction equipment zerts are 100% used for putting grease in joints / bearings etc., I've never seen an 'oil' zert in construction equipment before, but this could be the first....
Looks like you have it sorted. I agree that a inline cooler may help. Also the bottom hydraulic line may be in peril but not sure how you could protect it.
What they're referring to is the third line the small line that's your case drain line you take the quick connect off and fill that line with oil so basically it prime the system for the first time so it does not air lock the motor..
really? I did not know that, but the manual also says to fill the drum so I assumed that would be the actual roller itself. What you are saying makes sense, but I think I was supposed to do both. they were very vague with instructions
@@jmuller86 yeah I'm not too impressed with AGT I bought a severe duty brush cutter from them very vague and cheap.. my big bomag roller has a regular fill Port in drum but it doesn't hold much just enough for the bearings.
@@DIRT-BOSS yea I saw that brush cutter that you got. seems like the roller is their worst item yet. Hopefully you get some use out of that cutter. Alot of the better rollers hold oil inside the shaft itself, so not a ton of oil, usually measured in ounces. I might look for a bomag if things dont work out with this one.
Nothing like having to reinvent the wheel but I think you did a good job and if it works great hopefully there won't be a part 2 thanks for sharing see you next time
Nice work getting it to function, Jessie. Could they be talking about the hydraulic motor? Shouldn't need to do any oiling there, hydraulic fluid's taking care of that if it's a Geroller, likely. Those poor chickens!!! They ran for their lives!! Haha!! You have an Orange Boy! 😺 👍 they are the best. Thanks for the video, Do as you said and keep it greased, I don't see what else you would need to do. Best of luck with it, looked great what you had compacted.
Only change I would have suggested would be to have cut more of the original double skin so that the braces he added would have tied the bottom plate directly to the added plate, with the secondary plate welded in the middle, in a T configuration.
A lot of folks think an oil cooler would help; sounds right to me. I would be interested to know what the 3 inch hole in the back is for. I expect you have already taken a look.
If i would be you, i would put teflon surface on those 2 parts that are meant to shuffle or move over eachother . easy to keep iot smooth and greased , and feflon is made for that for the pressure
I have been looking at these for a while. No one in my area has one to rent to see if it works for my application. Just my long driveway. Good luck with yours
Jesse u hope you have a better experience with that roller than I did ! My boss got one when they first came out maybe 12 years ago and we figured it would save us from having to haul a roller out ..... we were wrong !!!! We couldn't get any of our lifts to pass density testing with it so we had to bring the roller anyways .... those things are a bugger to latch onto sometimes too they try to toll away from you if you're on any kind of a hill 😀
Think it may be an idea to put some packing around the pipes going through the loop on the top, to reduce the wear and tear on them. Anyware they touch something will cause damage.
I have battery grease guns as well but now I hardly use them anymore. Lock n lube sells a foot pump gun that holds a few gallons of grease and a 10’ hose and I can grease my excavators heavily about 20 times before I run out and have to add more grease. Like $350 but worth every penny had mine now for about 5-years and I love it it’s tough as hell and stays in the back of my truck. You need one
Yea I will probably invest in one. I have an old 12 valve cummins 3500 that I want to build into a service truck as soon as I build my new garage. It will have one of those on it, along with a welder/generator/big fuel tank
24:10 That case drain is needed in some motors because they are designed with internal leakage to lubricate parts that are not in the regular path of the oil. If one was to block that off, pressure would build in the case, blowing the shaft seals out. Some motors don't need that however because they may be designed with the return line also being the drain line, though that requires a low back pressure, the motor being made for that and it must be ensured that pressure only comes from the one side. You can use the case drain as an indication of how worn the motor is. Typically there is a spec for it in the datasheet, so you can just unhook that line and measure the flow when you believe there is something wrong.
@@Cosmo-mn9lk Yes that should go straight to the tank, on many machines even bypassing the return filter if there is one. Why would it overpressurize the tank?
Hi Jesse nice repair i dont know much about rolers but isnt it safer to create a safety plate between the driver cabin and the connection from the hydrolic hoses because oil can get be pretty hot as you notised and if those hoses exploding you might get sprayed hot hidrolic oil over you maybe you have alredy thought about it i don`t cknow that was i wanted to let you know better safe then sorry im looking foreward to your next project
Jesse, working within the parameters you had it came out OK! Sometimes we forget budget, time, short and long time investment, cash flow and making a small profit can be very hard to balance running your own business! Thanks for posting and take care!
If you can buy equipment cheap enough, with a good 'foundation', it's worth the sweat equity because you will understand how it suppose to work & you can keep it in your tool stable longer. Mount a inverted 3" angle iron scrapper, full length, on top of the drum, using a compression spring, so as to not affect the drum's float
I have thought about your using down pressure form the skid steer,. You mention that it causes the rubber mounting bushes to deflect a lot. It is my belief that you should use no down pressure, down pressure is stopping the roller vibration by taking all the flex out of the bushes and reduce the efficiency of the roller as well as potentially causing damage. it could also contribute to the over heating of the hydraulics
I feel like the top of the roller needs an angled edge welded in place to keep the rock stuck to the drum from going over top of the machine and getting down in that swivel joint.
While your skid steer goes forward, can you run the roller in the opposite direction? I don’t know if that would make it compact your gravel better or not, just a thought.
I don't know about the USA, but here if a holiday falls on a tuesday or a thursday, then the monday and the friday (respectively) are tacked to it for a 4 day weekend. as to not lose any workdays, some saturdays are counted as workdays.
23:51 you did that wrong. You are supposed to teist the cap on, not the bottle. We will forgive you this time since you teach us so much. Love the videos man!
I'll watch any subject other than the auction videos. Those videos where you have your young'uns in the shop...and yes I am including the third one "KEVIN".😊 your shop has an up beat fun...but get the job done...my kinda work shop.
I don't think the hyd's are to drive the roller, they're just for vibrating the roller. The roller just rolls because there is nothing holding it (the ground) and the vibrator is rotating the drum and not vibrating. After you start the hyd's by pushing your pedal do you push the button to activate the aux hyd's? Might help or I might be wrong. Good luck.
I suspect the rubber mounts are designed to take the gross weight of the roller without any down pressure from the skid steer. The skid steer just pushes and pulls worked in float mode. You will find out in due course. Thank you for posting.
I have a wolverine brand and I have the same issue. It started smoking then I could smell gear oil and it was always almost hot. Then the last time I used it I got metal shavings out of the leaking oil. I have no idea where to check the oil, I have looked all over. Clearly we have close to the same problems. Keep me posted on what you find.
Hey, if u put a strip on think leather or thick rubber (u might even have a better material) from side to side, it would keep the roller drum clean(r), u could even make it adjustable so that as the "scraper" wears u could slide it foward/closer ?!
Add a radiator in the line out hydraulic line, Replacement hydraulic pump with larger capacity/better methodology? Good job sussing out the rear plate problem of planning/tilt, per use maintenence?
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this, but it looks like just before the 60 minute mark the sound and video got out of sync. Great video - looking forward to part 2 maybe, LOL!
yea I edited the video in youtube editor, just to take out one small little section and they messed it up real bad. and now I cant go back and change it until they are done. I really wish youtube would get their stuff together
@@jmuller86 Amen to that. At least you got thru all the roller fixing/repair OK and it wasn't that much of an issue until the very end when you were wrapping up. Thanks for all the great videos that help so many others who can learn from your experiences. BTW, can't wait until you do the epoxy counter tops - I want to try that myself!
Rule thumb for weld strength is about 4300 lbs of shear strength for a one inch long by 1/4 inch fillet weld….your still in great shape for strength if you weld it as described….
You could bend the ears of the plate back by taking out the shims and bolting with a shim where you suggested rebar. Rebar is likely to kink the steel plate that seems to need to be smooth.
The problem is, you ran on it while it was wet which pushed the dirt and rock down, but the water up so it's going to dry lower than it should. If it were me I'd have you come back and add more rock to that one half. The other half looks great and was done before the rain mostly. That's the look they are looking for.
The whole point is to push the rock down and compact it. That is what will happen anyways with traffic. The reason that other half still looks good is because it has fabric underneath it.
Are you serious? Gotta love when people like you speak up and think you know anything about construction. Like Jesse said, the entire point of a roller is to compact and push down! The rock needs to be pushed down to lock it all together not to mention like he said too, what do you think a car or truck tire does? It pushes it down. I am confident to say you are actually 100% brain dеаd. He can't push it further down the it needs to go because it NEEDS to be all the way down. What a fuсkіng rеtаrd
@jmuller86 Thanks for the regular uploads Jesse. I noticed the audio desynced during the clip of dumping the fine material and remained for the rest of the video. Regardless I always appreciate an upload from you.
i thought i saw some slop in the pins/ mounts on the skidsteer, this might lose some vibratory effect. also i would attach a strip of rubber to one side of the swivel on top to keep dirt and rocks falling into the crack
Ya Jesse you are teaching the manufacture what they have done wrong. It looks there is a lots of mistakes on the building that roller, but I think with a few twecks you will have it run perfect.
Man, those exposed hose fittings on the drum vibration motor just look like they're kinda begging to get smashed on something... Would it be worth fabricating some kind of cover to protect those?
As always, well presented and informative! One comment: As mentioned by another viewer, the compacting roller attachment must be operated in the 'float' position to be effective. Too much down pressure effectively reduces the compaction force, increases wear and tear and will over time destroy the roller mounts.
My love of 46 years and I have decided that you are our favorite channel, followed by Farm Craft 101, 10th generation Dairy Farmer. I really enjoy your explanations of why an how you analyze problems and execute solutions. Your brief inclusions of family and your animals makes it even more enjoyable. Keep up the great work Jesse!
Sounds like you'll also enjoy watching Andrew Camarata if you do not already. Cheers!
@@netts2315 I’m an original big Andrew fan but recently beginning with the roller up the mountain series have been wondering how much is being created for views. My wife who was a big fan expressed so many WTF moments at 68 years old… she was totally turned off. Keep it real, don’t create. Still supporting Andrew with $ when reality is apparent.
@@CranialAccess I'm not sure anyone would be willing to jump out of moving roller for views for example, but I get your point. I think it's just a combination of unfortunate events and sketchy equipment & sketchy ways of handling stuff. Have a great day!
Leave the skid steer in float mode. It is like an air chisel. If you put too much down pressure on it, it is less effective. You need the up/down vibration for it to work properly.
i love how ur boy is always helping and wants to get involved... i cant get my kids outside let alone to help with projects...
Nice job Jesse modifying that roller. You do good work. I’ve only done construction a few years but I can tell you have an attention to details which makes all the difference in the world compared to many people in the same industry 👍🙂 Most people would just leave the lines in the gravel and not care how it looks.
Bravo to the cameraman for those close-up detail shots when you were rolling the jobsite carpark. ☺
I do not have one of these so I am not an expert or anything. That said, looking at both the owners manual for the AGT and the "more expensive version" from Spartan (this manual has more information on the "oil" needs), the grease fitting that just came out on you at 27:18, the other end of the drum that does not have the hydraulic motor, is not a grease fitting, but a "forced filling oil cup M8x1" and says that there are 3 of them (likely the "grease" nipples on the motor side since the motor prevents you from getting to the end of the "welded vibration shaft". Spartan uses a 90 degree elbow there, connected to an inline check valve and breather plug. AGT labels the bearing covers and seals as "cover oil seal" and "oil seat" on both ends of the "welded vibration shaft". Spartan has similar seals on both ends that are labeled as "oil seal". Now Spartan goes into more detail on checking, filling and changing the oil, saying "check oil level in roller shaft" every 100 hours by "remove 90 degree elbow with fittings in the cover plate. Oil level is sufficient if the oil is up to the fill hole. If the unit is level and the oil is not visible, add as required." Every 500 hours of operation the oil should be changed with an 80-90 weight gear lube. They also give approximate oil requirements for their 48", 66", 73" & 84" rollers of 1.38, 2.00, 2.13, & 2.50 quarts respectively.
So I think one of the issues everyone is having is that the "welded vibration shaft" is supposed to be lubricated with gear oil by partially filling the tube it spins in and the bearing behind the motor and that grease is likely way to thick to do the same job and you wouldn't have any idea how much to put in. That is just my understanding from looking at both manuals, again, not an expert or anything, but that is my take on it.
Great video and lots of great work done there to get this thing working on your machine. Would be interested to see or hear your thoughts on the above "ridiculously long winded comment" and if this helps, see a part 2 with if this helps things. Anyways, have a good one!!👍
that is interesting. I will definitely check into this, thanks
@@jmuller86 👍
Why did you find out? I have the same roller and have been running it for 2 years now. I was recently told it needs oil but can’t see any fill point… when I bought it, there was no UA-cam content, So thank you for this video!! Please let me know what you found. Also mine started smoking yesterday and looks like I need to replace the love-joy connector. Got that info from another UA-cam video. 😁
Jesse,
Some of your best post-fabrication custom engineering yet. I should know I worked for Cat Custom Engineering, Fork Lift Trucks back in the day in Mentor, Ohio. -Stephen
One thing we know about you is that you'll figure it out and determine if the roller can be made useful or not. 👍👍👍
I think that the bent backplate ends at min 45:50 are like that with the purpose of functioning as a spring, in order not to let the roller pivot too freely around the axis. The "spring" tension was adjusted by adding shims.
It would have been a good idea to grind and round the edges of the backplate so that they don't "dig" into the end caps.
Also, I don't think it's a good idea to put grease between the roller and the backplate, because over time it will act like a grind paste in combination with dust and sand.
What’s up bro. Love watching your videos. Like how you explain as much as you can for people that don’t know much about construction and other things you do. Keep the videos coming.
You are amazing Jessie. You can work anything out. ❤️❤️❤️❤️👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Good job Jesse. Thanks for sharing.
Interesting stuff and a job well done. 🎉❤
Thanks for sharing and being transparent! Great video!
Rewatched this video while at treatment...great skid steer work, love the way looks after completion. Great video!
❤ It looks good to me. Hope all goes well with roller.
I would suggest grinding a chamfer on the edges of the plate that were cutting into the retaining clamps in addition to straightening the warp, there is a lot of room for improvement on this attachment.
I find you can sometimes get decent deals with stuff like this... They aren't turnkey but with a few mods and improvements you can get a decent end result for low money. Plus you learn how it works for later repair and maintenance. I find some stuff from harbor freight like this... You can buy it new for cheaper than you could make it... but then need to do a little to fine tune to get it to work well. I think you should have left the grease out in between the plate and roller as I think its just asking for it to get gooey and bind up with dirt and debris where as dry I think it would just fall out easier. I think maybe like a plastic or teflon type sheet in between would be good to keep tight tolerance for less slop and tension on the main round swivel bushing yet still allow it to freely tilt. Great video Jesse.. I think that parking lot came out fine
That grease there will end up as abrasive and wear much faster.
I think he can put some kind of a wear plate made of hard plastic behind those plates instead of grease.
Job looks good. I know you won’t stop till you find out❤❤❤
Learning something new from you with every video. I could have used your help on that Little Farms driveway, long ago :)
Ya,,, Sunday Special ,,, Pot of Coffee on!! Here wee go ,,Just love this channel ,Jesse Muller, Rocks! Cheers!;-)!
I think a couple of items might help its longevity: Be careful of the down pressure. If it torques the bushings that much, that could cause premature wear and failure of the shaft/bushings. Also the speed of the rotation of the drum not matching the speed of the skidsteer might cause extra pressure on the shaft, bushings and motor seals. Of course I could be crazy and not have a complete thought in my head. Good video though!
Hey Jesse, great video. I have the same roller and burnt up the lovejoy connector twice before figuring out that it needs an inline flow regulator to keep the motor from going over speed. The “new” ones from china mostly have them now. I figured this out once I bought a used one from Bobcat. You can go look at pictures of those and you will see a small square block that the hoses go into. As far as oil, it depends on the maker. I have seen that some use oil and others don’t. That might be the “cheap” way they regulate motor speed. Hopefully that helps! I am working on my rebuild video of mine as well. I was lucky enough that I was just able to flush mount those bolt on the pivot point to make it work with my cat. But I also figured that out too late as it destroyed my quick coupler the first time I used it. I also needed to add a grease coupler to that as it really needs to be greased.
that is interesting. I will have to check into it. does it still hit pretty hard when its slowed down?
@@jmuller86 it seems to still hit decently hard. At some point the high rpm’s start to hurt the compaction, but I don’t know what that number is yet. My big sheep’s foot compactor says it runs at “1200” and can be adjusted based on what the soil engineers call for.
I had the same problem with my roller. What inline flow regulator have you found?
@@jmuller86 it should be at the flow where it has te most resonance. That flow can be lower or higher then it does now. Maybe playing a bit with the throttle of the loader will help a lot.
@@jaboy123 you need a pressure compensated flow control valve with at least 1/2 inch ports. When you have a highflow machine ( 15 gpm/ 60 liters a minute) you need 1 size larger, wich is 3/4 inch.
More importantly I think you need to redo the pins and bushing on the skid steers tilt cylinders.
Yeah when Jesse was first lifting the roller you saw the pins on the arms move meaning they are worn
Between worn and unusable there’s a very long time usually.
Very nice modifications on the roller Jesse
Thank you for sharing,i learn a lot ,thank you for explanation,it is very simple👍👍👍👍
You did more work to the roller than the people who built it
Jess, I have noticed 3 things that I would not do. One is run the roller lifting the front of the skidsteer off the ground. For sure the 8 vibration rubber dampeners are not made to support that type weight thereby allowing the top of the roller to rub the top of the back plate. Second do not put all the grease between the skidsteer mount ant the swivel part of the roller. In a few months of use you will have built up the best valve grinding compound money can buy between the 2 steel plates. Third, don't make the clearance between the mount and the swivel plate too tight. That center pin and funky plastic bushing will take a lot of racking back and forth from normal movement and going from forward to reverse. None of this advise may be worth listing to but.......
The manual says to lift the front of the skidsteer off the ground a few inches to transfer the most amount of weight to it, and yea I may have to revisit and take that grease off. Thought about that afterwords
Like mentioned already, the Roller has to be operated while in the float position of your boom to work correctly.
This is incorrect. Applying down pressure on the roller works 10x better with these rollers.
@@1foreman Turns out, it depends on the model of roller used, some of these you are even supposed to lift the front wheels of the skid-steer off the ground under operation. I guess Read the owners manual, and not random UA-cam comments is a thing.
Jesse you must know that AC has this compactor.
Thanks for a great video again
I know this is so old, but the holes you line up with the grease points, so you didn't need to cut off that part. And for running the roller, you just lightly set it on the ground, you need to find the sweet spot where the drum bounces rapidly and makes contact with the ground. Dont put any weight on it or you will rip those bushings off. I'm sure you figured all of this out, like I did, haha.
edit: also it works better on dry material. water doesn't compress.
Even the best hydraulic motors needed a k strain. The amount of oil that returns bypassing is part of the technical documents, so when the motor works properly then the returning flow of oil will be some ounces. By the way, I am working as hydraulic engineer for more than 30 years now. Cheers from Germany 👍🇩🇪😎
I've seen a good number of machine tools (lathes / mills etc) damaged by inserting grease where they should have been inserting oil. The zerk fitting looks like it is a grease zerk, but it's not. Inserting grease does not reach the bearing surfaces and ends up blocking the oil paths. I think maybe one of the bearings overheated during rolling the car park, and when you took a rain break maybe the grease melted and lubed the bearing. You may have to flush out the grease and get an oil pump instead. Hopefully one of your followers has a proper manual that lists the oil type to use as that is also important
I was curious if one of those port's was for oil if it says oil it there has to be a way to do it
@@BWIL2515 It sure looks that way, but without a proper user manual it's only a guess on my behalf, but I'm pretty sure it is the issue. I reckon that Jesse has over-heated one or possibly more of the bearings, hopefully it's not cooked it too much and flushing out the grease and replacing it with the correct oil will salvage the situation without replacing them. I'm assuming that the others that purchased this roller and had similar issues had used grease as well. I can understand the mistake as the user manual was not specific enough for me. AFAIK in all construction equipment zerts are 100% used for putting grease in joints / bearings etc., I've never seen an 'oil' zert in construction equipment before, but this could be the first....
Looks like you have it sorted. I agree that a inline cooler may help. Also the bottom hydraulic line may be in peril but not sure how you could protect it.
My thoughts exactly, maybe rotate the pump cover, or the pump.... not to sure on the whole attachment !!!!!
@@glennfryer1539pfft it's the finest Chinesium around. 😅
Jesse its a credit that every thing you turn your hands to its not a problem to work to a high spec keep the work rolling 😀😀😀
Good job buddy keep up the good work
What they're referring to is the third line the small line that's your case drain line you take the quick connect off and fill that line with oil so basically it prime the system for the first time so it does not air lock the motor..
really? I did not know that, but the manual also says to fill the drum so I assumed that would be the actual roller itself. What you are saying makes sense, but I think I was supposed to do both. they were very vague with instructions
@@jmuller86 yeah I'm not too impressed with AGT I bought a severe duty brush cutter from them very vague and cheap.. my big bomag roller has a regular fill Port in drum but it doesn't hold much just enough for the bearings.
@@DIRT-BOSS yea I saw that brush cutter that you got. seems like the roller is their worst item yet. Hopefully you get some use out of that cutter. Alot of the better rollers hold oil inside the shaft itself, so not a ton of oil, usually measured in ounces. I might look for a bomag if things dont work out with this one.
Mike you watch Jesse also, your a good man, Jesse does put out good videos.
Awesome work on the roller Jesse
I'm convinced there is nothing Jesse can't build or fix.
Nothing like having to reinvent the wheel but I think you did a good job and if it works great hopefully there won't be a part 2 thanks for sharing see you next time
Nice work getting it to function, Jessie. Could they be talking about the hydraulic motor? Shouldn't need to do any oiling there, hydraulic fluid's taking care of that if it's a Geroller, likely.
Those poor chickens!!! They ran for their lives!! Haha!!
You have an Orange Boy! 😺 👍 they are the best.
Thanks for the video, Do as you said and keep it greased, I don't see what else you would need to do.
Best of luck with it, looked great what you had compacted.
Good call on welding a new skid steer plate on the old one.
I know you will figure out the "oil" issue. good luck.
Parking lot turned out fine.
Only change I would have suggested would be to have cut more of the original double skin so that the braces he added would have tied the bottom plate directly to the added plate, with the secondary plate welded in the middle, in a T configuration.
Nice job Jesse and Good fix
You are a heck of a good millwright Jesse.
A lot of folks think an oil cooler would help; sounds right to me. I would be interested to know what the 3 inch hole in the back is for. I expect you have already taken a look.
If i would be you, i would put teflon surface on those 2 parts that are meant to shuffle or move over eachother . easy to keep iot smooth and greased , and feflon is made for that for the pressure
I have been looking at these for a while. No one in my area has one to rent to see if it works for my application. Just my long driveway.
Good luck with yours
Love all the videos and kinda hoping for a part 2 even if you aren’t hoping for one
Jesse u hope you have a better experience with that roller than I did ! My boss got one when they first came out maybe 12 years ago and we figured it would save us from having to haul a roller out ..... we were wrong !!!! We couldn't get any of our lifts to pass density testing with it so we had to bring the roller anyways .... those things are a bugger to latch onto sometimes too they try to toll away from you if you're on any kind of a hill 😀
Drop anti-roll legs of some sort? Had a roller to for a run all by itelf-rental unit- and that took 35 minutes to correct and re-attach it.
If someone with your level of skill and knowledge struggles to get this stuff working right, there's no hope for me 😁
Will you need access to the cylinder that you're trying to offset?
Think it may be an idea to put some packing around the pipes going through the loop on the top, to reduce the wear and tear on them. Anyware they touch something will cause damage.
Great video!
love your content, I could watch you work all day my friend .
I have battery grease guns as well but now I hardly use them anymore. Lock n lube sells a foot pump gun that holds a few gallons of grease and a 10’ hose and I can grease my excavators heavily about 20 times before I run out and have to add more grease. Like $350 but worth every penny had mine now for about 5-years and I love it it’s tough as hell and stays in the back of my truck. You need one
Yea I will probably invest in one. I have an old 12 valve cummins 3500 that I want to build into a service truck as soon as I build my new garage. It will have one of those on it, along with a welder/generator/big fuel tank
Great video 👍
24:10 That case drain is needed in some motors because they are designed with internal leakage to lubricate parts that are not in the regular path of the oil. If one was to block that off, pressure would build in the case, blowing the shaft seals out. Some motors don't need that however because they may be designed with the return line also being the drain line, though that requires a low back pressure, the motor being made for that and it must be ensured that pressure only comes from the one side.
You can use the case drain as an indication of how worn the motor is. Typically there is a spec for it in the datasheet, so you can just unhook that line and measure the flow when you believe there is something wrong.
So does the extra hose just drain oil back into the hydraulic tank of the machine? Would it not over pressurize the tank on machine?
@@Cosmo-mn9lk Yes that should go straight to the tank, on many machines even bypassing the return filter if there is one. Why would it overpressurize the tank?
Hi Jesse
nice repair
i dont know much about rolers
but isnt it safer to create a safety plate between the driver cabin and the connection from the hydrolic hoses
because oil can get be pretty hot as you notised
and if those hoses exploding you might get sprayed hot hidrolic oil over you
maybe you have alredy thought about it i don`t cknow
that was i wanted to let you know
better safe then sorry
im looking foreward to your next project
Jesse, working within the parameters you had it came out OK! Sometimes we forget budget, time, short and long time investment, cash flow and making a small profit can be very hard to balance running your own business! Thanks for posting and take care!
If you can buy equipment cheap enough, with a good 'foundation', it's worth the sweat equity because you will understand how it suppose to work & you can keep it in your tool stable longer.
Mount a inverted 3" angle iron scrapper, full length, on top of the drum, using a compression spring, so as to not affect the drum's float
What size were the adapters?
I have thought about your using down pressure form the skid steer,. You mention that it causes the rubber mounting bushes to deflect a lot. It is my belief that you should use no down pressure, down pressure is stopping the roller vibration by taking all the flex out of the bushes and reduce the efficiency of the roller as well as potentially causing damage. it could also contribute to the over heating of the hydraulics
You've done what you can and if something comes up you'll deal with it then, just as you always do.
I feel like the top of the roller needs an angled edge welded in place to keep the rock stuck to the drum from going over top of the machine and getting down in that swivel joint.
While your at it get a set of pins and bushes for the bottom loader arms 👍
While your skid steer goes forward, can you run the roller in the opposite direction? I don’t know if that would make it compact your gravel better or not, just a thought.
I don't know about the USA, but here if a holiday falls on a tuesday or a thursday, then the monday and the friday (respectively) are tacked to it for a 4 day weekend. as to not lose any workdays, some saturdays are counted as workdays.
Do you need to check your Hydraulic pressure for roller systems ??
Reminds me of everything my brother and I get equipment wise. Turns into more work than the job itself. lol...
Even aircraft hydraulic systems have hydraulic case drains, it's very efficient
23:51 you did that wrong. You are supposed to teist the cap on, not the bottle. We will forgive you this time since you teach us so much. Love the videos man!
I'll watch any subject other than the auction videos. Those videos where you have your young'uns in the shop...and yes I am including the third one "KEVIN".😊 your shop has an up beat fun...but get the job done...my kinda work shop.
Nice work fixing the problem…
Jessie, I saw an allen head bolt backed out by the hydraulic motor. Lock tight every bolt.
is the roller vibrating??
I don't think the hyd's are to drive the roller, they're just for vibrating the roller. The roller just rolls because there is nothing holding it (the ground) and the vibrator is rotating the drum and not vibrating. After you start the hyd's by pushing your pedal do you push the button to activate the aux hyd's? Might help or I might be wrong. Good luck.
I suspect the rubber mounts are designed to take the gross weight of the roller without any down pressure from the skid steer. The skid steer just pushes and pulls worked in float mode. You will find out in due course. Thank you for posting.
ran my buddies that is the same as this one. float is the way to do it
I have a wolverine brand and I have the same issue. It started smoking then I could smell gear oil and it was always almost hot. Then the last time I used it I got metal shavings out of the leaking oil. I have no idea where to check the oil, I have looked all over. Clearly we have close to the same problems. Keep me posted on what you find.
on the top blade over the roller you must add a rubber like brush to clean roller better when you use water on the stones
Hey, if u put a strip on think leather or thick rubber (u might even have a better material) from side to side, it would keep the roller drum clean(r), u could even make it adjustable so that as the "scraper" wears u could slide it foward/closer ?!
Add a radiator in the line out hydraulic line, Replacement hydraulic pump with larger capacity/better methodology? Good job sussing out the rear plate problem of planning/tilt, per use maintenence?
Usually the drum itself has water or oil in it. Dont fill it. I would put in 1/3 like a diff.
do ya think a cooler might help ?
Bad idea to fill with the drum with oil cuz when them seals blow out u will have 55 plus gallons of oil to deal with pouring out bad bad lol
Beet juice would have been better
How many tons of stone do you haul in your Single Axle?
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this, but it looks like just before the 60 minute mark the sound and video got out of sync. Great video - looking forward to part 2 maybe, LOL!
yea I edited the video in youtube editor, just to take out one small little section and they messed it up real bad. and now I cant go back and change it until they are done. I really wish youtube would get their stuff together
@@jmuller86 Amen to that. At least you got thru all the roller fixing/repair OK and it wasn't that much of an issue until the very end when you were wrapping up. Thanks for all the great videos that help so many others who can learn from your experiences. BTW, can't wait until you do the epoxy counter tops - I want to try that myself!
Rule thumb for weld strength is about 4300 lbs of shear strength for a one inch long by 1/4 inch fillet weld….your still in great shape for strength if you weld it as described….
I believe the make is called "Greatbear 72" Roller Compactor"
You could bend the ears of the plate back by taking out the shims and bolting with a shim where you suggested rebar. Rebar is likely to kink the steel plate that seems to need to be smooth.
The problem is, you ran on it while it was wet which pushed the dirt and rock down, but the water up so it's going to dry lower than it should. If it were me I'd have you come back and add more rock to that one half. The other half looks great and was done before the rain mostly. That's the look they are looking for.
The whole point is to push the rock down and compact it. That is what will happen anyways with traffic. The reason that other half still looks good is because it has fabric underneath it.
Are you serious? Gotta love when people like you speak up and think you know anything about construction. Like Jesse said, the entire point of a roller is to compact and push down! The rock needs to be pushed down to lock it all together not to mention like he said too, what do you think a car or truck tire does? It pushes it down. I am confident to say you are actually 100% brain dеаd. He can't push it further down the it needs to go because it NEEDS to be all the way down. What a fuсkіng rеtаrd
@jmuller86 Thanks for the regular uploads Jesse. I noticed the audio desynced during the clip of dumping the fine material and remained for the rest of the video. Regardless I always appreciate an upload from you.
Perfect time to compact this car park in the rain.
they make grease gun adapters that are made to get in tight areas and weird angles.
Check your hydraulic cooler and don't put too much pressure on the drum just a little down pressure and it works better.
It scares me that the paint isn't worn off the drum yet. Good luck though and thanks for the content
i thought i saw some slop in the pins/ mounts on the skidsteer, this might lose some vibratory effect. also i would attach a strip of rubber to one side of the swivel on top to keep dirt and rocks falling into the crack
the vibrating is not about crushing the stone. Its locks or binds the aggregate under pressure into place.
A 4 in 1 bucket and a levelling bar and you get the ground flat.
This is what we use in Australia.
Ya Jesse you are teaching the manufacture what they have done wrong.
It looks there is a lots of mistakes on the building that roller, but I think with a few twecks you will have it run perfect.
Man, those exposed hose fittings on the drum vibration motor just look like they're kinda begging to get smashed on something... Would it be worth fabricating some kind of cover to protect those?