David Brown 996 engine change time lapse
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- A time laps and a bit of blabbering about changing over my 996's engine. I swapped it out due to the original engine being on the cusp of failing.
Talking videos filmed on a Samsung Galaxy note 4 @1080p 60fps
Time lapse videos filmed on a Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 @720p 1.5 seconds per frame and scaled to 60fps (one minute of time lapse video = 93.75 minutes real time)
Music on time lapse vidoes:
1. So What Band - Gituning
2. Urtzi Azkue - Bildur Barik
3. Fortadelis - After Hours
Music Used under Creative Commons licence (creativecommons...)
thank you for your time and responses.
some of the very last 995/996 with sekura cab like this had spin on oil filter, friends 995 sekura cabbed 995 had a spin on filter, from memory I think it was a 1979, :-) id say its the right engine for the tractor, as 1212's had either a simms pump or some of the earlier "high cabs," had Bosch fitted,inline stye pump , (when there was a strike at the suppliers, n pumps were sourced from bosch, ) , a good job well done sir! 990,995,996 had the CAV distributor type like your donor
Did the late versions have the gear sticks in the middle the way this one does? I thought the gear sticks had moved to the side by this point.
Finally!! A good video showing the splitting of a DB. Literature on DB is difficult to find here across the pond in the U.S. Mostly Ford and Farmall here. I got to do some work on my DB crankshaft and have been trying to gage how much work I'm getting into and if there was any special tools that would be needed. You think a 2 ton (1,814 kg) rated engine hoist would be big enough for the engine section? Thanks so much for posting this video. I got a much better feel for what I will be getting into splitting my DB.
Troy Andrews he
Nice video mate, I do like these era DBs! Our 1210 runs really nicely, aside from a few tempremental fuel issues
SMcG Guy. Since swapping over the engine I've been getting a few small fuel issues, mainly air ingress when left unused for a week or so. I've since found the advance tap on the bottom of the injection pump is the culprit on mine. A little job for when I find a hour spare!
Well done, great job
Swapped engine in my 885 once, tok me most of two days do take the 880 donor down and get it in the 885 and crank the thing up.
995/996 did have spin on filters. Old chap had one from new
A lot of work. 😀
OMG, that smokes more than our David Brown 990.
Did ANYONE ever ask why DB fitted their pressed steel front axle to loader tractors rather than the much stronger drop forged version?. I used loader for moving pallets of fertilizer from lorries.
i have always rated the 9 series DB tractors as the best tractors made starting from the 990 Implematic and finishing with the 996. TW DBTCA
tom williams would have to disagree. I think the fiat 80 series and 90 series were bullet proof basic tractors
id say thats probally a 90 seris engine with the slin on filter and cav injection pupm 1212 had a diffrent unjector pump cant rember the name of it
P Gillen It is a Simms pump in 1212
I remember the joy of changing the clutches on these along with the Leyland 270 series not.... 🤢🤢
Would it not had been better and cheaper just to rebuild the engine u had?
A rebuild would have been the better option, but the donor tractor I bought for far less than it would have cost me to rebuild the engine plus this way there was a lot less down time. Rebuild would have taken the tractor out of action for at least a month, where as this way it was out of action for just a few days
Looks like your in Cornwall, I'd probably have split then lifted engine out of chassis
Give that man a pasty! I am indeed down here in deepest darkest Cornwall!
As the engine is part of the chassis on these you can't remove it from it. The front chassis rails form the crank case and the engine block bolts down on top of it. It's a bit of a different arrangement to most traditional tractor engines.
Full of blue smoke
would be great if you where local to me and if you could repair few things on my 1394 db thanks for sharing video
hi robert
thanks for helping me. i don’t believe there any bearings. do you possibly have a diagram showing the flow of oil in the engine?
I've had a quick scan through of the manual that I have (which is for a 995, engine is much the same), and there isn't a diagram sadly. You are right about the cam bearings being non-existent looking in the part catalogue for it. I do hope you find and cure what ever is causing it. All the best.
All in all you had alot of work in that.Why did you not keep the engine in the cabbed tractor and use her? Was the lift gone in her ?
The reasoning behind the swap is that the cabbed 996's front axle was rotten out and collapsed on one side. I'd of also had to swap out all the loader brackets to get my loader to fit.
The cabbed one would have also need all the hydraulic linkages freeing up as the only valve that is free on it is the quadrant. The hitch is also missing, link arms are worn out, brakes not working ect.
It would of probably ended up being more work than the engine swap.
Annoyingly I do now have to repair the gearbox on the cabless one now as you seem to have to go fishing for 2nd gear!
@@bobthesmug Not that i know much about mecanicking but that could only be a selector.I all ways heard the david brown gearing was built strong.I have a 995 q cab.Before that i had a 996 hi cab .I liked the hi cab in hind sight lol.Far less to go wrong than q cab model.No clutch and brake cylinders to worry about.And just easier worked at over all if she ever stuck in gear etc.
@@mariecarey7009 I wish it was a selector! I sadly know from a little bit of prior investigation that it is something broken behind the synchro. The 2nd and 3rd gear are synchromesh on this gear box, but they always have crunched going in since I've had the tractor. I'm just coping with it untill the end of the year until I manage to get some time to strip it down and repair it! Always something breaking on old high hour kit!
@@bobthesmug Your lucky you can to the work yourself.I have to pay a garage man anything i need doing. The brown that i have only has 6500 what seems to be geniune hours.
The engine is good easy started no smoke.There is a bit of a blow.I was told it will never do her anyharm.I could do the engine up and still get a blow.Rings might of went hard from not doing enough.?
@@mariecarey7009 it may be that it's slightly glazed up. It can happen, but giving it some hard work can sometimes help. A bit of blowb-by never will heart anything. So long as it's starting without a problem as you say it is, and not drinking oil, I personally would leave well alone. A lot of old Ford tractor engines are like that. Breath heavily but are mechanically sound.
Its coming out of where the cable screws into the tach drive.
It does seem like an odd place to leak. I do wonder if the tacho drive housing/shaft could be worn. If it was that would allow the oil to leak up past. I don't believe there are any seals inside it. The only other thing that I can think off, but I can't say for certain on, is if where the tacho drive gear is on the camshaft that there could be a blocked oil return gallery that allows the oil back to the sump. As the gear on the shaft is between 2 shell bearings for the cam shaft, it would make sense if it is incased and the drain in blocked. Without having one of these engines open infront of me it's difficult to say! Looking at a photo of a block I found on google, it does look like the could be a drain hole under where the tacho drive gear is...
Hope this is some help
🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱👋👋 falta reparación a ese motor
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التعديل الاخير
We have recently restored a 1967 DB 990 and when we started it we have oil leaking in the tach drive. people tell me its excessive pressure but we dont even have the valve cover on. we put in new pistons rings and sleeves. any ideas?
Hi there. If it was excessive crank case pressure then that could cause it, but seeing as you had it running without the rocker cover on, then I'd be sceptical of crankcase pressure being the issue. It's possible that the engine oil pressure is too high, but again I'd be sceptical. Is it just the tacho drive housing leaking or is it leaking from the cable?
Why?
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