I see my b-a-d effect on your running s-l-o-w-l-y. Very good boy. You get a Koala stamp; you don't get one on each hand until you show us slow starts and stops. Tom made a good comment; obviously a very bright fellow. Tom: make sure you tension the brush springs carefully; if so the locos realistically start and stop even quite heavy trains. Sadly replacement brush springs seem not available????????? Because of damp conditions could not run Marklin track, so two railed and converted to DC. Reversing effected by diodes, one connected in series with each field coil respectively. I often wonder why more Marklin operators do not do this to eliminate the troublesome reversal relay. I asked an expert who could see no problems with running on DC. He believed the motors should run cooler on DC. Does anyone know? My F7s run hot, but would probably be the same on factory specified AC - no stress or damage noticed. Always observe heat configuration on any model, stock or not. Running models on a conservative duty cycle is a good idea. As far as I know there are no problems running 3 rail as DC; Hornby Dublo did it, after-all. Again: does anyone know why not? Marklin of Sweden featured an upgrade of the 30xx 31xx F7 to digital and five slot armature. Worth seeing ua-cam.com/video/43ZlR_WuTrQ/v-deo.html Thanks 3rd Rail; have fun Tom
Universal motors (fitted to most analogue Märklin locomotives) can run on both DC and AC out of the box, so no problem to be expected using DC. The marklin analogue electronic controllers (6000/6600) from the early 80s spat out DC, and Marklin 33xx, 35xx locos and early digital models all ran the motors on DC, the AC from the track was converted to DC by the pre reversing units or decoders which was then fed to the motor. The very first version of Marklin 00 was DC, but it was not reliable (the selenium cells used were sensitive to shorts and silicon diodes weren't a thing in 1936, they only became available after WW2) and Märklin also realised this would make multi train operations complicated, so they switched to AC, with the concept of switching current and reversing unit. Reversing units are not troublesome and are rock solid, you only get problems if someone has been fiddling with them... And yes they produce a jump, but if this is a problem, there is an easy solution: don't buy Märklin... There were plenty of Hamo 2 rail versions of Märklin models to choose from. I would advise against touching brush springs, because you end up having to adjust them as the brushes wear out... Over time this only leads to one place -> metal fatigue and break... Granted, this would take a long time if you are gentle 😀 A good run-in usually gets you to a good equilibrium. Thanks for the Koala stickers, have a good Easter break 🐰🐣
What' this 'Don't buy Marklin'. More likely 'don't buy anything BUT Marklin'. Wash thy mouth out young man! If anyone asked me how to start, finance allowing - and that's a big 'if', I would point them toward Marklin, and failing that, N scale Kato (probably USA range). Don't know enough about Kato Half O to comment. Their N scale is Brilliant. With German engineering, 'Never use one part when four will do'; the Japanese seem to get quality with less complication. Compare the old 'classic' Minitrix with Kato. I don't know about the current Minitrix. The big problem with Marklin is their reticence to supply spares such as to keep old models on the road. Some of us treat Marklin like a Meccano set; nay; treat the WHOLE WORLD like a Meccano set. Hamo, and probably modern Trix?? is are interesting subjects, a VERY interesting subjects. Converting Marklin steam to two rail is fraught. The problem is insulating the crank pins so as to avoid a short across the motion braket. Not a job for a migraine day. The long gone version of the 2-10-0 of the seventies converted by using an entire cast plastic slug for each of the wheels. It was an unsatisfying sort of arrangement with its cast on crank-pins and its. Never had much luck with the tiny drive pinion bearing either, but that's another matter. Worst of the Hamo, at least in my experience, were the Bo-Bo mostly electrics. The F unit would fit in here, except they never released the F in tow rail. For reliable operation four wheels pickup on each side is the sensible minimum, and three j-u-s-t manages' but it is only just. The Marklin Bo-Bo conversions typically, possibly universally had four tyres and only the rear truck pickup. Not enough. On my few conversions, mostly F7s, I replaced the tyred wheels on one axle of the power truck with plain driving wheels and arranged a well integrated pickup. Hard to get spare part wheels now, so if you can't machine your own it is hard to do. Simply replacing the wheels with NSWL or something is equalyl problematic . Neither is no tyred w heels an option as so appointed the locomotive will not pull your hat off. No time to immediately respond to the reply; the detail was greatly appreciated, VERY appreciated. The two railed Marklin I have are second to none. Possibly Wrenn/HD equal them for reliability. LIke Wrenn they can be coaxed into reasonalbe slow speed performance, partly down to their large rotor diameters. And like Wrenn, some locos will outperform the loud-mouths. Anyone thinking of two railing; be careful; there are some deep pitfalls. Ask! Thanks Third Rail; run a train for me. @@the3rdrail-extra
I love the Märklin EMD F7s and have a bunch of them.
👍 more of them on the main channel: ua-cam.com/video/Lnc6yQwjPNQ/v-deo.html
@@the3rdrail-extra Thx, I just finished watching it.
I see my b-a-d effect on your running s-l-o-w-l-y. Very good boy. You get a Koala stamp; you don't get one on each hand until you show us slow starts and stops.
Tom made a good comment; obviously a very bright fellow. Tom: make sure you tension the brush springs carefully; if so the locos realistically start and stop even quite heavy trains. Sadly replacement brush springs seem not available????????? Because of damp conditions could not run Marklin track, so two railed and converted to DC. Reversing effected by diodes, one connected in series with each field coil respectively. I often wonder why more Marklin operators do not do this to eliminate the troublesome reversal relay. I asked an expert who could see no problems with running on DC. He believed the motors should run cooler on DC. Does anyone know? My F7s run hot, but would probably be the same on factory specified AC - no stress or damage noticed. Always observe heat configuration on any model, stock or not. Running models on a conservative duty cycle is a good idea. As far as I know there are no problems running 3 rail as DC; Hornby Dublo did it, after-all. Again: does anyone know why not?
Marklin of Sweden featured an upgrade of the 30xx 31xx F7 to digital and five slot armature. Worth seeing ua-cam.com/video/43ZlR_WuTrQ/v-deo.html
Thanks 3rd Rail; have fun Tom
Universal motors (fitted to most analogue Märklin locomotives) can run on both DC and AC out of the box, so no problem to be expected using DC. The marklin analogue electronic controllers (6000/6600) from the early 80s spat out DC, and Marklin 33xx, 35xx locos and early digital models all ran the motors on DC, the AC from the track was converted to DC by the pre reversing units or decoders which was then fed to the motor. The very first version of Marklin 00 was DC, but it was not reliable (the selenium cells used were sensitive to shorts and silicon diodes weren't a thing in 1936, they only became available after WW2) and Märklin also realised this would make multi train operations complicated, so they switched to AC, with the concept of switching current and reversing unit.
Reversing units are not troublesome and are rock solid, you only get problems if someone has been fiddling with them... And yes they produce a jump, but if this is a problem, there is an easy solution: don't buy Märklin... There were plenty of Hamo 2 rail versions of Märklin models to choose from. I would advise against touching brush springs, because you end up having to adjust them as the brushes wear out... Over time this only leads to one place -> metal fatigue and break... Granted, this would take a long time if you are gentle 😀 A good run-in usually gets you to a good equilibrium.
Thanks for the Koala stickers, have a good Easter break 🐰🐣
What' this 'Don't buy Marklin'. More likely 'don't buy anything BUT Marklin'. Wash thy mouth out young man!
If anyone asked me how to start, finance allowing - and that's a big 'if', I would point them toward Marklin, and failing that, N scale Kato (probably USA range). Don't know enough about Kato Half O to comment. Their N scale is Brilliant. With German engineering,
'Never use one part when four will do'; the Japanese seem to get quality with less complication. Compare the old 'classic' Minitrix with Kato. I don't know about the current Minitrix.
The big problem with Marklin is their reticence to supply spares such as to keep old models on the road. Some of us treat Marklin like a Meccano set; nay; treat the WHOLE WORLD like a Meccano set.
Hamo, and probably modern Trix?? is are interesting subjects, a VERY interesting subjects. Converting Marklin steam to two rail is fraught. The problem is insulating the crank pins so as to avoid a short across the motion braket. Not a job for a migraine day. The long gone version of the 2-10-0 of the seventies converted by using an entire cast plastic slug for each of the wheels. It was an unsatisfying sort of arrangement with its cast on crank-pins and its. Never had much luck with the tiny drive pinion bearing either, but that's another matter.
Worst of the Hamo, at least in my experience, were the Bo-Bo mostly electrics. The F unit would fit in here, except they never released the F in tow rail. For reliable operation four wheels pickup on each side is the sensible minimum, and three j-u-s-t manages' but it is only just. The Marklin Bo-Bo conversions typically, possibly universally had four tyres and only the rear truck pickup. Not enough.
On my few conversions, mostly F7s, I replaced the tyred wheels on one axle of the power truck with plain driving wheels and arranged a well integrated pickup. Hard to get spare part wheels now, so if you can't machine your own it is hard to do. Simply replacing the wheels with NSWL or something is equalyl problematic . Neither is no tyred w heels an option as so appointed the locomotive will not pull your hat off.
No time to immediately respond to the reply; the detail was greatly appreciated, VERY appreciated. The two railed Marklin I have are second to none. Possibly Wrenn/HD equal them for reliability. LIke Wrenn they can be coaxed into reasonalbe slow speed performance, partly down to their large rotor diameters. And like Wrenn, some locos will outperform the loud-mouths. Anyone thinking of two railing; be careful; there are some deep pitfalls. Ask!
Thanks Third Rail; run a train for me.
@@the3rdrail-extra
Very appropriate for my layout and on my list. Must stop procrastinating and get on with my layout😮
Great as always to see.