Nice video, as always. Just one point, the Building Regs say you should always put down a polythene membrane over that insualtion before you clip the pipes down. Some inspectors are really hot on it because the sand and cement reacts with the PIR board producing a gas that attacks the screed as it is curing and that weakens the screed where the sheets join. Have a look at the Kingspan website for more details. When people find their screed is breaking up they blame the UFH but it is almost always the lack of polythene separation. Using the Polypipe trays overcomes the problem.
+Skill Builder Can you have direct link to this information ? I'm not quite sure I did understand what's the problem is? I looking to do underfloor heating and I want to do it right.Thank you
+tpax3p I will look for the relevant text on Kingspan's we site but if you just make sure you cover the foil face of the insulation with thin polythene and then put the pipes down on top of the polythene you will be doing the job properly. Loads of people get this wrong and it causes creeds to crack. Plumbers blame the screed and the screed layers blame the people who put the insulation down. Typical building industry buck passing. Also sleeve pipes where they go from one room to another or through a wall because they will expand and contract and cause wear at that point. There is a lot of information out there on UFH you just have to look for it.
please provide a reference as to the building regs for the need to place polythene sheet over the insulation, the website says to damp-proof the concrete slab then place the insulation board, underfloor pipes, then screed...
This video couldn't have come at a better time for me, James. I am in the middle of some extensive building works myself, self building - and this will definitely prove invaluable. Please keep us clued up with part 2. Cheers
Great vid. I have moved to a bungalow that has underfloor heating throughout and its great. Only question is zone 8 on the heatmiser uh3 is set to override so when triggered by the thermostat it opens yhe valve on the manifold but does not trigger the boiler. I can switch override off on the heatmiser unit so it will trigger the boiler for zone 8, but just wondered why it was set like this. Zone 8 is the hallway and small toilet that houses the manifold and miser.😎👍😎
Apologies but I am a newbie. Our boiler is in the corner of the kitchen. We are extending out into the garden and looking at UFH. The building will go upto the garage so looking at putting the manifold in there. My lack of knowledge then hits a wall. Can the flow and return from manifold not tee off the boiler? As I was told it would need to come off near the the airing cupboard. Which would be a chore in itself to get pipes from here. Thank you and loving your videos.
Nice video. It has always been my understanding that the hot water circuit is the first circuit on the main flow and returns, with this setup it is now the underfloor heating. Am I missing something?
One concern I have about undefloor heating is how do you add to it? You mentioned that additional loops can be added, but practically how is that done when the flooring is lay on top? Let's say you wanted to add your living room at the other side of the house....how do you get the piping to the manifold without digging up flooring? Great videos and love your honest, can do attitude
Hi James Love the posts I Just a question about UFH .Do I need to run my central heating/ hot water pump all the time as I wish to have the ufh on?in order to get the hot water to the ufh pump Cheers Bruce
Hello I am in process of installing water underfloor heating. As part of the project the contractor is also moving the boiler from kichen to garage. My question is when the project completed what kind of certificate and documentation should I get for the underfloor heating installation and for moving the boiler for my future record. Can you please list out what should I get from the company on completion please. Thanks,
Is there a reason why in the UK UFH is generally laid as a zig zag snake pattern, but in northern europe they tend to lay it in a large spiral that works into and then out of the centre of the room?
hi james, nice video, can you tell me do you need to use a seperate manifolds on each floor or will 1 on ground floor do both, i am actually getting ready to install into my own self build . thanks
Fantastic How to Video! Well Done. Does anyone know how to drain the under floor heating system. I have the same one, or similar. I just need to drain, add cleaner, re-drain and then add inhibitor. Thanks
The pipe should be laid in a spiral pattern where the 2 loops spiral within each other! If you lay the pipe in a zigzag pattern as shown in this video you will get an uneven heat distribution as the water looses heat as is it returns to the boiler.
Sorry Alan but that's not correct. I've done this job for years and we've never had a problem. Indeed, my home was done using this system and using a Flir heat sensing camera. It's lovely and even and warm all over!
Heya, we just got our hearing looked at but we still have issues. I’m wondering if you can help. We have an old riello 40 oil burner and it’s connected to a Titan 2 Circulation Pump. The pipes in the house aren’t even getting lukewarm. Have you any ideas why this may be?
Okay so I came here because I wanted to know if I can put underfloor heating manifold onto a condensing combi system. I'm not a plumber but I have done plumbing a fair few times so competent with soldering etc.
Hi James, loving your videos, thank you! I have a quick question re the flow and return pipes from the Air Source Heat Pump (interior unit) to the UFH manifold. I know these need to be 26mm pipes. Is there any specific type of pipework needed? (guessing it doesn't need to be PEL-AL-PEX?) Also a bit confused about how to run the flow and returns if there's more than one manifold. We'll have 3 manifolds over three floors. Do I just run a flow and return pipe to the top floor manifold and tee off of this for the ground and 1st floor manifolds? Cheers for your help.
Hi, I've got some 16mm underfloor heating pipe and I need to test it before I install it as it's been stored in a barn for six months and I'm worried it might have been damaged. What's the easiest way to do this?
Hi mate, good watch...! I am about to install this and the supplier said the heat is never so much that it would cause damage or issues to the kitchen cabinets and electrical appliances, is this ok? Secondly, wireless vs. wired control?
Although you stated no underfloor heating circuit to be installed under your fridge and cupboard what precautions did you take to prevent heat creep permiating into the screed slab in these areas as will happen in all attached adjascent screed ?
Hi - Just a question or 2 as I'm looking to install underfloor heating ina garden room. Irrespective of how many loops to me 1 room is 1 zone. So why do I need a controller or opening valves to each loop? I'm thinking a stat switches on the boiler and feed valve which in turn powers the underfloor heating pump, though I thought the underfloor heating pump just runs all the time circulating the water so its all at the same temperature ready to mix with extra heat from the boiler when the stat demands it. I'm not a heating engineer so I could be wrong and am happy to be corrected. Just keeps the cost down if there is nothing wrong with my suggestion. Just to add...I plan to install 4 loops as its a large room and I have made a floor design to avoid cold spots...also hence 4 loops of 70m of pipe at 200mm spacing. So I plan to run it all as 1 zone unless advised otherwise. Finally, it will be connected to an open plan kitchen so I am putting in more loops so the heat will also heat the kitchen.
you can put a 5-6mm screed over them you need primers ect ect the 5-6mm flexible screed acts as a heatsink.you then need a ufh breathable underlay then flooring.
Hi buddy. Quick question. I might be being daft but can't get my head around. Thinking off having underfloor heating in a conservatory we are going to have. We have the drop down (as boiler is upstairs) flow and return pipes 22mm other side of the wall of the soon expected conservatory. currently the heating system is from a new Worcester combi with nest thermo and is not zoned. I see there is a 2 port valve on the manifold which would open when its own thermostat calls for heat. but my question is if the rest of the house is not already being heated how would the manifold receive hot water from the flow? also if the 2 port valve is wired back to the boiler some how and when it calls for heat from the boiler and the boiler comes on how would you stop it heating rest of the house? sorry if this sounds daft. I'm not a plumber but have a good knowledge of plumbing. After reading this you probably "think this guy knows nothing lol"
Great videos, thanks! If your home has half the rooms heated with radiant floor heating, and the other half with rads, do you need two separate pumps, mixing valves, and manifolds, since the water temperature needs to be different?
+William Galloway Heating should have standard controls and the Manifold will do itself and mix the water to suit the underfloor remotely. PP! Please sub >> ua-cam.com/users/plumberparts
Hi James, usefully video as I’m currently doing this myself on a super diy job ! What brand of pipe are you using as it looks super flexible ? I have some 16mm pex but it’s really unruly and I’m finding it hard to get the right u bends, Cheers 👍🏼
you should realy have laid the pipe on top of a polythene membrane to protect you insualtion and also if you had done a big loop little loop system on you pipe work our floor would heat up evenly instead of left to right. i lay underfloor heating for a living so this is how i know this
Seperate motorized valve for your under floor? I like this system looks a lot easier than using the red crate system from Polyplumb. Looking forward to Part 2.
CriBz86 Hopeing to fit one in as I always Zone them.....but need the room on the flow pipe to fit it. Although Wavin state it's not required I'm like you guys! PP!
Its usually to be able to manipulate each zone how you want so if the zones are split into different rooms then you have the ability to turn heating in one room off and other room on. The other reason is to make a quicker responsive system because its quicker to heat the room via two pipes than one.
Howaya boss. Can I ask ya about the ufh. I know it takes longer to heat up than rads. First do you have the option of putting timber directly over that or does it have to be a screed and second cos it takes longer to heat up than rads will you time that differently than the rads to allow for this. I remember talkin to Danfoss I think it was before on the phone and they had time clocks for the under floor heating that were factory set to go on and off numerous times during the day to not let the screed cool down to much. You might have this end of it covered in your next video anyway. Great videos by the way me all china
robert brennan Hi Rob. I'll answer each question seperately! 1. If you lay timber (I imagine you mean engineered oak or something) Then it's best to use Wavin's low build system. This runs a 10mm pipe through a channel that's made of aluminium and spread the heat over a larger area. Also you have to run the water temp in a manifold at a slightly higher temp. However, I have been to properties that have screeded over standard staples then popped down an underlay with wood over that and it's worked fine! 2. Yes. For example, if i'm getting up at 6, I'll have the underlfoor come on before the rest of the system at 5. Similarly it will go off an hour earlier too. So you basically have it one for the same amount of time as the rads, but shift the times. Hope that helps mate! PP!
Hi James , Really much thanks for your info , Just one confusion.. when laying the pipe loops , am I right to assume one end goes to flow n other goes to return.? Waiting your reply buddy Thanks
you forgot to take into consideration to compensate the loss of heat near the big windows/doors. In that area the pipe for the loop should have been half the distance to the pipe next to it. For the rest of the area it's OK. Laying out the pipe in the shape of a snail with the center in the area where you will be standing the most would have helped for increased comfort
+plumberparts of course it will be fine. Those are just extra options that one could get. Of course the installation price would rise and also it would require more materials. Keep the good work. Thank you for teaching us. Your videos help me very much since I am supervising the construction of my house
*Links to the tools I use everyday here*: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts
*Plus, follow my Vlog “TimesWithJames”*: ua-cam.com/users/timeswithjames
Nice video, as always. Just one point, the Building Regs say you should always put down a polythene membrane over that insualtion before you clip the pipes down. Some inspectors are really hot on it because the sand and cement reacts with the PIR board producing a gas that attacks the screed as it is curing and that weakens the screed where the sheets join. Have a look at the Kingspan website for more details.
When people find their screed is breaking up they blame the UFH but it is almost always the lack of polythene separation. Using the Polypipe trays overcomes the problem.
+Skill Builder Can you have direct link to this information ? I'm not quite sure I did understand what's the problem is? I looking to do underfloor heating and I want to do it right.Thank you
+tpax3p I will look for the relevant text on Kingspan's we site but if you just make sure you cover the foil face of the insulation with thin polythene and then put the pipes down on top of the polythene you will be doing the job properly. Loads of people get this wrong and it causes creeds to crack. Plumbers blame the screed and the screed layers blame the people who put the insulation down. Typical building industry buck passing.
Also sleeve pipes where they go from one room to another or through a wall because they will expand and contract and cause wear at that point. There is a lot of information out there on UFH you just have to look for it.
please provide a reference as to the building regs for the need to place polythene sheet over the insulation, the website says to damp-proof the concrete slab then place the insulation board, underfloor pipes, then screed...
PIR board for walls and ceilings EPs for floors
Ogre2011 so DPM under slab and then insulation boards directly onto concrete slab?
This video couldn't have come at a better time for me, James. I am in the middle of some extensive building works myself, self building - and this will definitely prove invaluable. Please keep us clued up with part 2. Cheers
Llyr Jones No worries, will be out in two weeks, we anticipate!
Happy anniversary😁😁. My wife loves that kind of anniversary present too 🤣🤣
Great vid. I have moved to a bungalow that has underfloor heating throughout and its great. Only question is zone 8 on the heatmiser uh3 is set to override so when triggered by the thermostat it opens yhe valve on the manifold but does not trigger the boiler. I can switch override off on the heatmiser unit so it will trigger the boiler for zone 8, but just wondered why it was set like this. Zone 8 is the hallway and small toilet that houses the manifold and miser.😎👍😎
Apologies but I am a newbie. Our boiler is in the corner of the kitchen. We are extending out into the garden and looking at UFH. The building will go upto the garage so looking at putting the manifold in there. My lack of knowledge then hits a wall. Can the flow and return from manifold not tee off the boiler? As I was told it would need to come off near the the airing cupboard. Which would be a chore in itself to get pipes from here.
Thank you and loving your videos.
Nice video. It has always been my understanding that the hot water circuit is the first circuit on the main flow and returns, with this setup it is now the underfloor heating. Am I missing something?
One concern I have about undefloor heating is how do you add to it? You mentioned that additional loops can be added, but practically how is that done when the flooring is lay on top? Let's say you wanted to add your living room at the other side of the house....how do you get the piping to the manifold without digging up flooring? Great videos and love your honest, can do attitude
Thanks for the great video! It is a lot of help in my own underfloor heating system quest. Keep up the great work!
Just to check. I'm assuming any laminate floor can be put on top of this?
Hi, thanks for this great video. Where do you get these twist flick and lock manifold system?
Hi James
Love the posts
I Just a question about UFH .Do I need to run my central heating/ hot water pump all the time as I wish to have the ufh on?in order to get the hot water to the ufh pump
Cheers Bruce
Good morning, can I place this direct on an upstairs floor then make a false floor over it. Also what size diameter is the actual pipe.
Hello
I am in process of installing water underfloor heating. As part of the project the contractor is also moving the boiler from kichen to garage.
My question is when the project completed what kind of certificate and documentation should I get for the underfloor heating installation and for moving the boiler for my future record.
Can you please list out what should I get from the company on completion please.
Thanks,
Is there a reason why in the UK UFH is generally laid as a zig zag snake pattern, but in northern europe they tend to lay it in a large spiral that works into and then out of the centre of the room?
Because in the uk we can't get our heads round a spiral!
That's because UK is obsessed with squares and right angles.
hi james, nice video, can you tell me do you need to use a seperate manifolds on each floor or will 1 on ground floor do both, i am actually getting ready to install into my own self build . thanks
Fantastic How to Video! Well Done. Does anyone know how to drain the under floor heating system. I have the same one, or similar. I just need to drain, add cleaner, re-drain and then add inhibitor. Thanks
Enjoyed part 1. Great to finally meet the Mrs. Happy anniversary. Sheep! Or is it squirrels? Holding tight for part 2. Lol 👍
Brian Milligan Both....for the wife it's 'Money!'
Lol
Is that insulation on the walls overspecc due to glass amount?
Do I have to buy a system like this or could I just T off the radiator in the room?
Hi Dave
Can u pls tell me if its better to use pipe with a aluminium layer inside for the floor heating or one without?
did you test the hot water through the pipes before your put the screed over the pipes?
The pipe should be laid in a spiral pattern where the 2 loops spiral within each other! If you lay the pipe in a zigzag pattern as shown in this video you will get an uneven heat distribution as the water looses heat as is it returns to the boiler.
Sorry Alan but that's not correct. I've done this job for years and we've never had a problem. Indeed, my home was done using this system and using a Flir heat sensing camera. It's lovely and even and warm all over!
Heya, we just got our hearing looked at but we still have issues. I’m wondering if you can help. We have an old riello 40 oil burner and it’s connected to a Titan 2 Circulation Pump. The pipes in the house aren’t even getting lukewarm. Have you any ideas why this may be?
Why don't you connect the end of the pipe to the manifold before you lay it, and connect the other end once you've finished running that circuit?
Okay so I came here because I wanted to know if I can put underfloor heating manifold onto a condensing combi system. I'm not a plumber but I have done plumbing a fair few times so competent with soldering etc.
Hi. Did you lay the insulation boards directly onto the concrete slab? Or is there something between?
Hi James, loving your videos, thank you! I have a quick question re the flow and return pipes from the Air Source Heat Pump (interior unit) to the UFH manifold. I know these need to be 26mm pipes. Is there any specific type of pipework needed? (guessing it doesn't need to be PEL-AL-PEX?) Also a bit confused about how to run the flow and returns if there's more than one manifold. We'll have 3 manifolds over three floors. Do I just run a flow and return pipe to the top floor manifold and tee off of this for the ground and 1st floor manifolds? Cheers for your help.
Does the concrete floor has to be leveled before applying insulation board. Our garage floor is about half brick height difference. ???
Hi, I've got some 16mm underfloor heating pipe and I need to test it before I install it as it's been stored in a barn for six months and I'm worried it might have been damaged. What's the easiest way to do this?
Anyone know the best place to buy a kit from?
Great video 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Is that underfloor heating pipe rubber, rather than plastic? Does it go into the manifold with the same rubber pipe?
and a coil whynder for the pipe wud make your job a lot easier and quicker . ive put miles of underfloor down sore on the kneees lol
What pipe did you use?
Hi mate, good watch...! I am about to install this and the supplier said the heat is never so much that it would cause damage or issues to the kitchen cabinets and electrical appliances, is this ok? Secondly, wireless vs. wired control?
How did you take that wall out without braking the glasses on the shelf
Although you stated no underfloor heating circuit to be installed under your fridge and cupboard what precautions did you take to prevent heat creep permiating into the screed slab in these areas as will happen in all attached adjascent screed ?
Funnily enough, it just doesn't happen! SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ua-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
Hi - Just a question or 2 as I'm looking to install underfloor heating ina garden room. Irrespective of how many loops to me 1 room is 1 zone. So why do I need a controller or opening valves to each loop? I'm thinking a stat switches on the boiler and feed valve which in turn powers the underfloor heating pump, though I thought the underfloor heating pump just runs all the time circulating the water so its all at the same temperature ready to mix with extra heat from the boiler when the stat demands it. I'm not a heating engineer so I could be wrong and am happy to be corrected. Just keeps the cost down if there is nothing wrong with my suggestion. Just to add...I plan to install 4 loops as its a large room and I have made a floor design to avoid cold spots...also hence 4 loops of 70m of pipe at 200mm spacing. So I plan to run it all as 1 zone unless advised otherwise. Finally, it will be connected to an open plan kitchen so I am putting in more loops so the heat will also heat the kitchen.
How much this system demand from the boiler when compared with a large radiator?
some people recommend to use Floor panels with grooves in them where the pipe will stick in, do you recommend those?
you can put a 5-6mm screed over them you need primers ect ect the 5-6mm flexible screed acts as a heatsink.you then need a ufh breathable underlay then flooring.
Great video mate , always interesting
Hi buddy. Quick question. I might be being daft but can't get my head around. Thinking off having underfloor heating in a conservatory we are going to have. We have the drop down (as boiler is upstairs) flow and return pipes 22mm other side of the wall of the soon expected conservatory. currently the heating system is from a new Worcester combi with nest thermo and is not zoned. I see there is a 2 port valve on the manifold which would open when its own thermostat calls for heat. but my question is if the rest of the house is not already being heated how would the manifold receive hot water from the flow? also if the 2 port valve is wired back to the boiler some how and when it calls for heat from the boiler and the boiler comes on how would you stop it heating rest of the house? sorry if this sounds daft. I'm not a plumber but have a good knowledge of plumbing. After reading this you probably "think this guy knows nothing lol"
How much it costs for installation of underfloor heating system in a 3 bedroom bungalow.
great video!
Can I please check which model of Manifold you are talking about and using?
+Areg Vrtanesyan That's the Wavin click and lock one. Just check their website!
Great videos, thanks! If your home has half the rooms heated with radiant floor heating, and the other half with rads, do you need two separate pumps, mixing valves, and manifolds, since the water temperature needs to be different?
+William Galloway Heating should have standard controls and the Manifold will do itself and mix the water to suit the underfloor remotely. PP!
Please sub >> ua-cam.com/users/plumberparts
Hi James, usefully video as I’m currently doing this myself on a super diy job ! What brand of pipe are you using as it looks super flexible ? I have some 16mm pex but it’s really unruly and I’m finding it hard to get the right u bends, Cheers 👍🏼
hello how are you can i ask you . what is a role of pomp cerculation here ????
Hi James what stops underfloor heating from work stopped working today
Great video. I’m just about to get started on my UFH and this has been really useful. What pipe are you using there?
you should realy have laid the pipe on top of a polythene membrane to protect you insualtion and also if you had done a big loop little loop system on you pipe work our floor would heat up evenly instead of left to right. i lay underfloor heating for a living so this is how i know this
craig
Been looking for someone to comment that 😂 I started to doubt myself thinking maybe I’m doing it wrong
Seperate motorized valve for your under floor? I like this system looks a lot easier than using the red crate system from Polyplumb. Looking forward to Part 2.
It's always best to zone your ufh.
CriBz86 Hopeing to fit one in as I always Zone them.....but need the room on the flow pipe to fit it. Although Wavin state it's not required I'm like you guys! PP!
At what point or what indicators would a llh be required to separate the ufh from the rads?
great job can't wait to see the rest
Stephen Lyons Cheers!
Thank you...Great Video...sound quality needs improvement.
Great vid.
Nice video and good job , as always can`t wait to see the rest
Can you link us all to the parts that’s needed for the same setup please?
Is there a reason you fit 2 loops to one room and not just one loop?
Its usually to be able to manipulate each zone how you want so if the zones are split into different rooms then you have the ability to turn heating in one room off and other room on. The other reason is to make a quicker responsive system because its quicker to heat the room via two pipes than one.
Howaya boss. Can I ask ya about the ufh. I know it takes longer to heat up than rads. First do you have the option of putting timber directly over that or does it have to be a screed and second cos it takes longer to heat up than rads will you time that differently than the rads to allow for this. I remember talkin to Danfoss I think it was before on the phone and they had time clocks for the under floor heating that were factory set to go on and off numerous times during the day to not let the screed cool down to much. You might have this end of it covered in your next video anyway. Great videos by the way me all china
robert brennan Hi Rob. I'll answer each question seperately!
1. If you lay timber (I imagine you mean engineered oak or something) Then it's best to use Wavin's low build system. This runs a 10mm pipe through a channel that's made of aluminium and spread the heat over a larger area. Also you have to run the water temp in a manifold at a slightly higher temp. However, I have been to properties that have screeded over standard staples then popped down an underlay with wood over that and it's worked fine!
2. Yes. For example, if i'm getting up at 6, I'll have the underlfoor come on before the rest of the system at 5. Similarly it will go off an hour earlier too. So you basically have it one for the same amount of time as the rads, but shift the times.
Hope that helps mate! PP!
+plumberparts, ahh good stuff. Appreciate that and thanks for the reply.
Also, may I ask what your floor consists of?
Hi James ,
Really much thanks for your info ,
Just one confusion.. when laying the pipe loops , am I right to assume one end goes to flow n other goes to return.?
Waiting your reply buddy
Thanks
Yes mate bang on! Sorry for the delay in replying!
Sub here please➡️👉 ua-cam.com/users/plumberparts 👈⬅️If you haven't already!
you forgot to take into consideration to compensate the loss of heat near the big windows/doors. In that area the pipe for the loop should have been half the distance to the pipe next to it. For the rest of the area it's OK. Laying out the pipe in the shape of a snail with the center in the area where you will be standing the most would have helped for increased comfort
Dan, it'll be fine. I'll let you in January!
+plumberparts of course it will be fine. Those are just extra options that one could get. Of course the installation price would rise and also it would require more materials. Keep the good work. Thank you for teaching us. Your videos help me very much since I am supervising the construction of my house
These Videos are great. I have a problem with UFH system at present with a combi boiler and the internal pump keeps running, any thoughts?
Happy Anniversary
Class
What pipe brand is it ? Did you order underfloor heating as a kit ? Thanks
+tpax3p Wavin/hep20
Should the domestic hot water pump be running with the underfloor heating system
good watch. when's part 2
James Nicol Should be out in the next few weeks!
Fancy making your missus work on her anniversary 😂
why dont u use rail fixing ?
+BallSackGaming Send us a link!
Shouldnt you be doing circles when doing underfloor heating and if not why not, the way you do it one spot will be warm other will be cold
Unfortunately that kind of loop you are using is the worst one. You should use double serpentine.
Wavin 👋??? My friends who work there call it Wav-in . They are in Chippenham Wiltshire
It’s pronounced Wavin like Gavin not wave in.
His missus is a moose
Is it just me or does the crude in between all of his teeth really distract from his message? Is a brush and a floss that much to ask for?