A couple of times you had your hands all over the pulley with the switch set to run and the pressure switch able to turn it on when the pressure drops - and the air is leaking. If the pressure switch clicks that pumps starts with your fingers on the pulley it will ruin at least your day. You absolutely need the check valve. It also reduces the starting load on your motor because the pump is seeing ambient pressure when it starts.
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I assure you that at no time did I ever have my hand on the wheel unless the switch was off or the breaker was off. Or most likely both. The amazing art of video editing does not include everything. Thanks.
You absolutely need a "check valve" with a tube for the unloader valve as well. Those valve are some times called a NRV for none reverse Valve. And the unloader valve bleeds the air off the pump outlet tube of pressure so it will be easier for your motor to start up without fighting the pressure every time...
So glad you got that rotation issue fixed. The check valve is must. Didn't you keep the old check valve when you changed compressor pumps? One way to get some extra hand clearance between the big pulley and the hose connector would be to put spacers under the pump. You have box steel, and wood blocks would work too, if just for temporary to figure out how much rise you want. Then you get to figure out the new belt required. Good luck with your project.
If you had mounted the motor on the other side of pump it wouldn't be so crowded to work in there. The access points you need would be on the outside out in the open. Usually there is an arrow on the pump pulley pointing which way it should turn.
Thanks for the comment reefslayer! If you watch the first video where I do the rebuild, you will see that due to the pre existing location of the mounting plate and handlebar the way I mounted the motor and pump was my only option. If I chose to swap the motor and pump, I would have to redrill mounting holes. The option that I chose to remedy this problem was by far the easiest. If I was terribly worried about having the belt and pulley to the front, then I would just spin the whole thing around on the wheels. It is not permanently mounted to the floor. I'm pretty sure that would be the easiest. Thanks again for the comment. More videos to come!
Yes I think you need to put a check valve so the air won't reverse into the pump.other wise good job I like how it turned out.
Hello Cesar, Yes, I agree on the check valve. Stay Tuned! Thank you for the comment.
A couple of times you had your hands all over the pulley with the switch set to run and the pressure switch able to turn it on when the pressure drops - and the air is leaking. If the pressure switch clicks that pumps starts with your fingers on the pulley it will ruin at least your day. You absolutely need the check valve. It also reduces the starting load on your motor because the pump is seeing ambient pressure when it starts.
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I assure you that at no time did I ever have my hand on the wheel unless the switch was off or the breaker was off. Or most likely both. The amazing art of video editing does not include everything. Thanks.
You absolutely need a "check valve" with a tube for the unloader valve as well. Those valve are some times called a NRV for none reverse Valve. And the unloader valve bleeds the air off the pump outlet tube of pressure so it will be easier for your motor to start up without fighting the pressure every time...
Appreciate the information. Thnx for the comment.
So glad you got that rotation issue fixed. The check valve is must. Didn't you keep the old check valve when you changed compressor pumps?
One way to get some extra hand clearance between the big pulley and the hose connector would be to put spacers under the pump. You have box steel, and wood blocks would work too, if just for temporary to figure out how much rise you want. Then you get to figure out the new belt required.
Good luck with your project.
Thank you for the comments. I will be installing a check valve soon. Hopefully will have a part 3 to this series.
If you had mounted the motor on the other side of pump it wouldn't be so crowded to work in there. The access points you need would be on the outside out in the open.
Usually there is an arrow on the pump pulley pointing which way it should turn.
Thank you for the comment
With a check valve it will hold pressure for weeks without kicking on, as long as there are no other leaks. At least mine all do. Good luck.
I am hoping so! I have purchased one. Hope to get it installed soon. Thank you for the comment.
Kinda surprised that it starts back up with pressure in tank , with no check valve.
I don't know..... I guess that motor is legit. I do notice occasional strain. I will be installing a check valve when I can find a good one.
You need to have an unloader valve on the pump!
Thank you for the comment
You will blow the head gasket on that pump without a check valve. Thats a good high output pump too. Where is your head unloader ?
Dude. 4th of july is coming up. Dont ruin my show plans
Or… just flip the motor and the pump around and it will be spinning in the right direction, you should have the pulleys on the backside anyway
Thanks for the comment reefslayer! If you watch the first video where I do the rebuild, you will see that due to the pre existing location of the mounting plate and handlebar the way I mounted the motor and pump was my only option. If I chose to swap the motor and pump, I would have to redrill mounting holes. The option that I chose to remedy this problem was by far the easiest. If I was terribly worried about having the belt and pulley to the front, then I would just spin the whole thing around on the wheels. It is not permanently mounted to the floor. I'm pretty sure that would be the easiest. Thanks again for the comment. More videos to come!
how stupid are you???!!! the motor was spinning the wrong direction no matter what side of the pump it is on!!!