Have owned a 97 528i since 2011. Now 2018. stay on top of Water pump & radiator & replacing periodically. replace your hoses. Only use OEM camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Use Bosch plugs. Doesn't like cheap gas. Use premium. Clean the O2 sensors. Common problems are power steering reservoir leak. 3rd brake light often goes out. Check wiring harness at trunk. Replace overflow reservoir. Hard cooling system to fill. (run and then turn off, fill more. repeat) Use a good quality water pump and thermostat. Use aluminum thermostat housing. replace hood latch cables. My next project is replacing wheel bearings, am at 240k. Love this car. Have a 97 and a 98 for parts. I don't have a car payment so I don't mind the repairs, fairly easy car to work on. Stay away from the stealership. Fuel pump replaced, watch the rubber seal. Replace your gas cap and overflow radiator cap. Still a better driving and performing car than many new cars. replace upper head gasket. Clean your MAF sensor. I also run 20-50 Wt. Oil. One of the first things to check is to see if aux fan comes on with AC. Fan is expensive to replace and will overheat without it. $250.
Dang you hit the nail right on the head with everything mentioned. Am a former 528i owner, '98 sedan. I can say shortly after I first bought the car my mechanic informed me that the crankshaft sensor and O2 sensors were bad, also had a problem with overheating at idle, I'm guessing the thermostat broke. Also a common issue with these BMWs are the power window regulators...had to replace each window at some point. And the third brake light you were right about too. That eventually stopped working. Your list is very accurate. All things that you need to look out for with this year range. Hopefully people will see your comment before deciding to buy one as these cars can be a real headache to maintain properly.
I have owned my 1998 528i since 2005. Nine years ago it broke down as the crank sensor failed. I managed to get it home as it started again after a while. Six years ago it started to smoke oil when first started but that was just the oil return in the dipstick tube from the crankcase breather that had blocked. Compressed air cleared it after removing the dipstick tube. I have had no other issues and has passed all MOT's with a couple of very minor repairs needed (new wipers, tyres etc). For a car that is now 22 years old, I am confident this will be the best car in my life.
Excellent video and advice. I got a e39 523i 1998 with almost 200 k kms . No overheating, no suspension noises, it goes smoothly on my daily route to work and back. You should only check fluid levels (all) periodically. Unfortunately the headlight covers have dimmed and it looks like it suffered from cataracts. (rests in the open). I will make that change soon. It is a magnificent machine and its sporty executive design distinguishes it from today's disposable cars.
BMW engineers used as a daily 523i, so I have heard from one German guy. I can imagine 523i 1998 are pretty reliable but 528i are also. 5 speed manual is way to go.
Just bought one the other day that is pretty much the exact same as yours, 1998 523i 179k kms no overheating no suspension noises goes smoothly and doesn’t cost me much to work on or replace parts, I find it super reliable, doesn’t guzzle petrol or oil too much, love it. It’s been 3 years since you posted this comment but seeing as I just bought mine in such a similar condition and exact same model and year as yours, figured I’d reply! Do you still have yours and if so how has it been to own?
Great video and very thorough! Thank you. A few more items to also check are: 1) Intake leaks 2) Fuel pressure regulator 3) Oil adjusters for camshaft 4) A/C temp sensor 5) 02 sensor
BMW black man working I get up early because I'm addicted to working on my e39 it's something about the German engineering that calls me day and night I love it
Agreed, for me it’s Broke Mexican Working. I love working on my E46 cause every job I do I find cool little details from the engineering perspective. It may sound corny to say but I think they actually put love and care into the design of these cars.
Are those called halo headlamps? Lol I would just thoroughly clean the plastic to make them look clear, I also don’t like it when people swap the chrome with black around the windows.. obviously for my taste I’m looking at a 1997 528I manual five speed in blue... daaaamn
Great video! I have gone thru just about all of those problems in our '97 Z3. Most recently the water pump failed causing the fan blades to break and ultimately tow truck city! The coolant pipes in the rear of the motor got us before that. There is a coolant pipe under the head that we went ahead and replaced at the same time. That is a night mare to replace. Thanks for the video!
I'll never daily drive my bmw again. I have a Civic for commuting. and a mustang GT convertible as my weekend warrior. I'm going to buy my next bimmer just for driving to class twice a week. I think an E36 would be great for that!!!!
I have a BMW z3 2.2 with an m52 engine, I've spent a little over £3000 on repairs but I just love the car-it drives great and never fails to make me smile! It had to have all the tappets? replaced/the lifters, engine had to be pulled apart all 24 of them replaced that was £1500, needed 2 new sensors, serpentine belts replaced, collapsed crankshaft valve and a few other little niggles yet every garage tells me after repairs that the m52 is a great engine and reliable. I love the car to much to part with it which is why I haven't minded it being repaired but is this unusual, have I been really unlucky or are these a common problem at a certain amount of miles?
Great Video and very informative! I'm looking at a '97 528i with 71k miles. At what point do these issues start showing up? Or is it more of an aging part problem and not so much a mileage/normal wear out issue.
It has been 8 years since I sold my e39, looking back I loved that car and poured a lot of money and love into it, but man was it always breaking down. All of these problems in the video + climate control spike piece + windshield wiper motor + death wobble for ages + window regulators + vanos rebuild + airbag faults constantly + the worst wear on tires ever etc. Nice car, but saying you drive a cheap BMW for almost no money is like saying you can gen a cheap Rolex for just 10.000$ but it is a Timex
Bmw makes reliable cars.I have a E36 318i sedan 1992 first hand and i am very satisfied f using this car.As somebody said depends on how you treat your car...
Another great video, but especially with the e39 they're leaky cars especially when the sunroof doesn't work, drains back up, all types of electrical nightmares!
You say it like a cracked head is junk. My machine shop said that they could repair a cracked head. Will that work or what is your experience? GOOD videos keep it up!
These heads are not very repairable for the same reasons that they crack so easily in the first place, there's not a lot of extra tolerance. Machine shops repair heads by welding up the cracks, but that generally won't hold on these heads.
Great Video. Thanks for loading this one up for the BMW enthusiast. I am very interested in your Point of View regarding the Automatic Transmission Fluid change. Looking at buying a 99 M3 E36 and it has only 85K miles on it. Had much of the items you mentioned replace or addressed except never had a transmission service done on it. For a 20 year vehicle it looks great and low miles but appears it sat in a garage a lot and wasn't a daily driver more of a weekend warrior. At this point should the transmission fluid be forgotten about for another 20 years or it is recommended to do a full fluid swap including the fluid in the torque converter? Also for the radiator I see many older M3 are going ALL aluminum aftermarket radiators. Is that recommended or should it stay all stock just make sure the water pump hoses and thermostat are replaced? Thanks again!
That's it? hahahaha sounds like a ton of problems, I use an e36 as my daily driver and I've done a lot of work on it and I'm still not done. I also bought an e39 for $1100 which still has a very bad vacuum leak, or vanos seals? who knows... I hope I can get it fixed next month.
If you are looking for vacuum leaks, check out some videos to test your CCV. If it fails it will manifest like a vacuum leak and also a fair bit of oil consumption/smoking. If you let it run long with a failed ccv you'll end up needing an engine
Which would you say is the better engine overall? The M52, or the M52TU which they changed over to around '98 Which is the better E39 car to go for since both are similarly priced?
Difference is M52TÜ are double vanos and intake manifold is different and some electric stuff. M52TU is more like M54 engine. M52TU is engineered to make more power(tork) on a lower revs. I'm planing to buy 1998 528i 5 speed manual which should be M52TÜ with double Vanos sistem. In Germany these cars are still on the roads even with 200k miles.
Just bought a 98 BMW 528i, makes thump when shifting from D to N nothing else, drives good, shifts good, just needs a tune up. Looked online said it could be a u joint or driveshaft center support barring, any thoughts?
i know its fixable it deff not or fan its coming from under the motor by passengers side by exhaust and oil pan thats were i hear it on start up and when i rev motor somewhat over 3000 rpm i dont think its a lifter it would be ticking all the time and yes i work on cars too just need someone who knows these cars .
Seen an E39 on Craigslist with crank no start status and now I'm watching this video like wtf. Is it even worth it? I'm attracted because of its age and low cost but I'm conflicted. I own an F10 and want to start spreading the usage down with another car.
That's a lot, I do them one by one as day pop up one after another. Good video it helps to look for culprits. I just wish that the manufacturers watch it too without being proud of themselves
I have a problem with my97 528i touring with automatic transmission .Steering wheel is jurky at times and not smooth. I have to put more steering effort. When I bought the car the previous owner had run with low oil in the steering system. I top it of with ATF oil but the jerky steering still persists. I can feel it more on hot days thou. Another thing is that the belt squeals a bit in cold starts and then idle in gear. Is the pump shaft broken and thus making the steering jerky and the belt squeal ?
After I topped off with ATF oil the steering is fine. But the squealling persists so im thinking that the belts needs replacement. Have you had a issue that the belt(s) can squeak if steering oil drips off on them ? btw thank you for your responce
hey nathan, i love your channel. you have helped me out with buying and maintaining my bmw and now im looking forward to buying another. Ive been doing a lot of research online but i havent found many people talking about a list of best/most reliable BMWs and i was wondering if you could make one yourself since you know so much about BMWs? if not then could you at least let me know which used BMW engines are your favorites based on their reliability and relative low cost of maintenance?
Very accurate. But can you createa a video how to delete ccv and put on oil catch can? I have bimmber m52b28 96-08. It have most of the problems which you mentioned. Also liambdas often go down. Also what kind of adapter to put on metal valve cover for ventilation? And m50 intake manifold give extra power on high range, but on low range it kills Nm... Which this engine don't have..
So on the m52 you will need to remove the ccv and plug the intake where it was , plug the dipstick tube hose and run one side of the catch can to the valve cover and the other side to vacuum
Ryosuke if you take care it it'll take care of you, so make sure when you get one as your daily , just be on top of everything, never neglect it and it will return the favor to you as well , just my .2 and experienced
Ryosuke don't be. most of everything he mentioned is easy fix. I have a 99 m3 soon as I bought it I changed the whole heating system full tune up tran ny fluid diff fluid some hoses. 4 years later not 1 single problem and I drive it hard
Cant remember it was a while ago i installed everything myself . Just do your research about where to buy. The aftermarket parts that didn't last me were valve cover gasket and ignition booths. Everything is pretty much aftermarket but not cheap aftermarket everything was probably less than a grand.
My service engine light came on and it came back with these codes p0339 p0727. Which is the crankshaft sensor. I changed that with oem part from Napa. The brand is Meyle. But my car still runs like crap and the sel is still on. What should I do?
Mine has just started to get a rough idle when it gets half way to temprature, my c310 scanner is saying cylinder 4-6 o2 sensor however i just replaced that less than about 2000kms ago is there something else that can throw that code?
Hey amazing video! My e39 523i works fine when its cold but once It gets warm it starts losing power, sometimes dies, wont start, not driving smooth and electrical failures. I have no idea where to go from here, someone said that i should change my camshaft. I know that my Crankcase ventilation system has a lot of dirt in it but could that really cause these problems? What would you do? :) Thanks!
Dont know if its worth mentioning but the issues came after we filled the tank with wrong small ammount of fuel and with too much cleansing to lower the exhaust values. We also changed my 95 amps battery to 75 amps and put on a kat on my pipes which the car didnt have before. I have so much anxiety because I just got my drivers license and then this happened :/
I've overheated and curious your opinion on damage to the rings becoming brittle. I'm weighting weather to swap the whole engine vs a replacement head. Also, can the heads be repaired or does they need to be tossed? Please advise and thanks very much
Was the 523i also available in the US? We even had a 2l (520i) option over here in Europe. Also a pretty reliable M52 engine bit as you can guess...pretty slow
thanks for the video,,,,,,, if you dont mind, when you spoke about the powe steering fluid you mention it takes ATF otherwise it will leak but mine calls for the green can chf13 am i wrong? 97 e38 and my 2006 750li..... also i will check for the filter on the power steering system i didnt knw there was one on it,,,thanks
Are you sure its not coming from a pulley or the fan? it could of broken the timing chain guide or you could have some really bad vanos seals, hard to say really, but its for sure fixable
damn was thinking of getting a e36 m3 but after seeing this video I'm having second thoughts now. There's seems to be a lot of weak points too many if cracks there goes your head, damn what doesn't destroy the head on the car? Now I could be wrong but just seems like more work than it's worth. I'll look for these issues and continue mt research hopefully I find a good car.
hey i live in lancaster pa need help whit a bmw 528i has rattal on start up and when i rev motor i can hear what sounds like chain rattal from passiger side under the car can u help me .?
1:28 when i remove my oil cap and see a lot like tick white chocolate and little white smoke when start. This is bad head gasket or something else ? or i need timing tool with cylinder head ? thank you
+Nathan's DIY Garage I was replaced with hose and code all clear . But after I drive few week later code coming back and I disconnected hose all I see oil. Do you what is my next step ?
Old comment, so sorry for replying if you’ve already got the car. Those motors have a deadly timing chain guide failure. They all fail, after 100-150k, and you’re just just rolling the dice every day hoping you don’t hear the chain start rattling. If you wait for it to start, you’ll have to stop driving the car immediately and replace them...a very labor intensive or costly job. Best to just factor the cost into your buying budget, or prepare to do it yourself first thing. If the guides go you’re playing Russian roulette by continuing to drive it
I'm 53 and have been driving Mercedes and BMW since I was 26. These cars are extremely UN- reliable and will nickel and dime you to death I know I have lived it and NEVER again. The minute 1 thing is fixed another thing goes to shit and on and on it goes. As a daily driver you literally take your chances.The beauty and engineering will suck you in and down the rabbit hole ya go. It's not worth the constant $$ hit and headaches ~ My next vehicle will not be German ~
96 starts doulbe trouble vanoss, electrical thermostats and other electric crap. Simply not worth. These cars sells for like 900$ her but will cost 10x times to maintain
yeah i just looked it up, im starting to believe my 528i e39 was Frankensteined ...lol but your videos have helped so much, just having to save money to throw parts a it... catch can has still yet to come in...
Well in Germany are considered pretty reliable cars, I' m not sure what they have delivered to USA market, but here in Europe these cars have still good price. if you get one 5 speed manual 1998 with only 85k miles for just 2k you are lucky guy they go up to 8k with less than 100k miles.
Have owned a 97 528i since 2011. Now 2018. stay on top of Water pump & radiator & replacing periodically. replace your hoses. Only use OEM camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Use Bosch plugs. Doesn't like cheap gas. Use premium. Clean the O2 sensors. Common problems are power steering reservoir leak. 3rd brake light often goes out. Check wiring harness at trunk. Replace overflow reservoir. Hard cooling system to fill. (run and then turn off, fill more. repeat) Use a good quality water pump and thermostat. Use aluminum thermostat housing. replace hood latch cables. My next project is replacing wheel bearings, am at 240k. Love this car. Have a 97 and a 98 for parts. I don't have a car payment so I don't mind the repairs, fairly easy car to work on. Stay away from the stealership. Fuel pump replaced, watch the rubber seal. Replace your gas cap and overflow radiator cap. Still a better driving and performing car than many new cars. replace upper head gasket. Clean your MAF sensor. I also run 20-50 Wt. Oil. One of the first things to check is to see if aux fan comes on with AC. Fan is expensive to replace and will overheat without it. $250.
Michael Irey thank you!!! I’m looking at a blue one what color is yours? It’s also a manual five speed so I’m looking forward to that
Dang you hit the nail right on the head with everything mentioned. Am a former 528i owner, '98 sedan. I can say shortly after I first bought the car my mechanic informed me that the crankshaft sensor and O2 sensors were bad, also had a problem with overheating at idle, I'm guessing the thermostat broke. Also a common issue with these BMWs are the power window regulators...had to replace each window at some point. And the third brake light you were right about too. That eventually stopped working.
Your list is very accurate. All things that you need to look out for with this year range. Hopefully people will see your comment before deciding to buy one as these cars can be a real headache to maintain properly.
Screenshots this comment
Yet am still looking forward to buying one lol i guess you will be my consultant.
Any opinion on the urö brand parts? Where do you recommend to get quality parts that are not Uber expensive
I have owned my 1998 528i since 2005. Nine years ago it broke down as the crank sensor failed. I managed to get it home as it started again after a while. Six years ago it started to smoke oil when first started but that was just the oil return in the dipstick tube from the crankcase breather that had blocked. Compressed air cleared it after removing the dipstick tube. I have had no other issues and has passed all MOT's with a couple of very minor repairs needed (new wipers, tyres etc).
For a car that is now 22 years old, I am confident this will be the best car in my life.
Excellent video and advice. I got a e39 523i 1998 with almost 200 k kms . No overheating, no suspension noises, it goes smoothly on my daily route to work and back. You should only check fluid levels (all) periodically. Unfortunately the headlight covers have dimmed and it looks like it suffered from cataracts. (rests in the open). I will make that change soon. It is a magnificent machine and its sporty executive design distinguishes it from today's disposable cars.
BMW engineers used as a daily 523i, so I have heard from one German guy. I can imagine 523i 1998 are pretty reliable but 528i are also. 5 speed manual is way to go.
Just bought one the other day that is pretty much the exact same as yours, 1998 523i 179k kms no overheating no suspension noises goes smoothly and doesn’t cost me much to work on or replace parts, I find it super reliable, doesn’t guzzle petrol or oil too much, love it. It’s been 3 years since you posted this comment but seeing as I just bought mine in such a similar condition and exact same model and year as yours, figured I’d reply! Do you still have yours and if so how has it been to own?
Great video and very thorough! Thank you.
A few more items to also check are:
1) Intake leaks
2) Fuel pressure regulator
3) Oil adjusters for camshaft
4) A/C temp sensor
5) 02 sensor
“Its not really a money thing..its more of a time consuming thing”
- a mechanic
BMW black man working I get up early because I'm addicted to working on my e39 it's something about the German engineering that calls me day and night I love it
Dave Ram lol
Lmao
BMW making black men work, BMW is racist.
@@GunsNGames1 grow up lol
Agreed, for me it’s Broke Mexican Working. I love working on my E46 cause every job I do I find cool little details from the engineering perspective. It may sound corny to say but I think they actually put love and care into the design of these cars.
ok pause 0:21 IF YOU SEE THOSE UGLY AFTERMARKET HEADLIGHTS ON THE CAR turn around and never look back
Alberrrrt These cars are always best stock
@@saryn1829 the only new head lights ill give my e39 ar hella e39 facelift and there super nice looking google em :) + they ar a bit expensive
Pretty much unless the car is sub 500
It’s horrible
Are those called halo headlamps? Lol I would just thoroughly clean the plastic to make them look clear,
I also don’t like it when people swap the chrome with black around the windows.. obviously for my taste
I’m looking at a 1997 528I manual five speed in blue... daaaamn
Great video! I have gone thru just about all of those problems in our '97 Z3. Most recently the water pump failed causing the fan blades to break and ultimately tow truck city! The coolant pipes in the rear of the motor got us before that. There is a coolant pipe under the head that we went ahead and replaced at the same time. That is a night mare to replace. Thanks for the video!
I'll never daily drive my bmw again. I have a Civic for commuting. and a mustang GT convertible as my weekend warrior. I'm going to buy my next bimmer just for driving to class twice a week. I think an E36 would be great for that!!!!
About Bosch plugs, I would personally use NGK better quality anyway.
I have a BMW z3 2.2 with an m52 engine, I've spent a little over £3000 on repairs but I just love the car-it drives great and never fails to make me smile! It had to have all the tappets? replaced/the lifters, engine had to be pulled apart all 24 of them replaced that was £1500, needed 2 new sensors, serpentine belts replaced, collapsed crankshaft valve and a few other little niggles yet every garage tells me after repairs that the m52 is a great engine and reliable. I love the car to much to part with it which is why I haven't minded it being repaired but is this unusual, have I been really unlucky or are these a common problem at a certain amount of miles?
melissat922 Jesus, I'm looking to purchase a z3 coupe with the 2.9 engine, but I think I'll settle for a Sentra. I'm scared now.
I recommend a Honda fit for you. Get the sport edition and then buy yourself a BMW hat and pretend you are driving a BMW. That is what I plan to do.
Original ccv is the best, even works with turbo setup, just unplug it from manifold and connect to turbo inlet with rubber hose. Works like a champ 🤝
Great Video and very informative!
I'm looking at a '97 528i with 71k miles.
At what point do these issues start showing up? Or is it more of an aging part problem and not so much a mileage/normal wear out issue.
It has been 8 years since I sold my e39, looking back I loved that car and poured a lot of money and love into it, but man was it always breaking down. All of these problems in the video + climate control spike piece + windshield wiper motor + death wobble for ages + window regulators + vanos rebuild + airbag faults constantly + the worst wear on tires ever etc. Nice car, but saying you drive a cheap BMW for almost no money is like saying you can gen a cheap Rolex for just 10.000$ but it is a Timex
I have had good luck with Hella brand sensors.
Bmw makes reliable cars.I have a E36 318i sedan 1992 first hand and i am very satisfied f using this car.As somebody said depends on how you treat your car...
Another great video, but especially with the e39 they're leaky cars especially when the sunroof doesn't work, drains back up, all types of electrical nightmares!
Yea its for sure to ruin your lcm and the fuse box in the passenger floor
In terms of ownership cost and driving experience, which would be the best choice out of 528i vs 530i, facelift vs pre-facelift ?
You say it like a cracked head is junk. My machine shop said that they could repair a cracked head. Will that work or what is your experience?
GOOD videos keep it up!
These heads are not very repairable for the same reasons that they crack so easily in the first place, there's not a lot of extra tolerance. Machine shops repair heads by welding up the cracks, but that generally won't hold on these heads.
Great Video. Thanks for loading this one up for the BMW enthusiast. I am very interested in your Point of View regarding the Automatic Transmission Fluid change. Looking at buying a 99 M3 E36 and it has only 85K miles on it. Had much of the items you mentioned replace or addressed except never had a transmission service done on it. For a 20 year vehicle it looks great and low miles but appears it sat in a garage a lot and wasn't a daily driver more of a weekend warrior. At this point should the transmission fluid be forgotten about for another 20 years or it is recommended to do a full fluid swap including the fluid in the torque converter? Also for the radiator I see many older M3 are going ALL aluminum aftermarket radiators. Is that recommended or should it stay all stock just make sure the water pump hoses and thermostat are replaced? Thanks again!
That's it? hahahaha sounds like a ton of problems, I use an e36 as my daily driver and I've done a lot of work on it and I'm still not done. I also bought an e39 for $1100 which still has a very bad vacuum leak, or vanos seals? who knows... I hope I can get it fixed next month.
If you are looking for vacuum leaks, check out some videos to test your CCV. If it fails it will manifest like a vacuum leak and also a fair bit of oil consumption/smoking. If you let it run long with a failed ccv you'll end up needing an engine
sclark1701 what are the symptoms of vacuum leak
i love the e39 so much man
Which would you say is the better engine overall? The M52, or the M52TU which they changed over to around '98
Which is the better E39 car to go for since both are similarly priced?
Difference is M52TÜ are double vanos and intake manifold is different and some electric stuff. M52TU is more like M54 engine. M52TU is engineered to make more power(tork) on a lower revs. I'm planing to buy 1998 528i 5 speed manual which should be M52TÜ with double Vanos sistem. In Germany these cars are still on the roads even with 200k miles.
Just bought a 98 BMW 528i, makes thump when shifting from D to N nothing else, drives good, shifts good, just needs a tune up. Looked online said it could be a u joint or driveshaft center support barring, any thoughts?
We have a p1345 p1343 p1085 p1083 p1347 p0336 p0300 where should we start car runs and rough idle makes like plates breaking rattling
i know its fixable it deff not or fan its coming from under the motor by passengers side by exhaust and oil pan thats were i hear it on start up and when i rev motor somewhat over 3000 rpm i dont think its a lifter it would be ticking all the time and yes i work on cars too just need someone who knows these cars .
Change fuel pump, do cooling system and replace all 6 fluids you good to daily. Maybe sensors aswell
1 Engine Oil, 2 Coolant, 3 Trans Fluid, 4 Diff Oil, 5 Brake oil, 6 Power Stering Fluid?
@@Polorigolo35 jepp correct. Also change trans filter and psf filter. Plus the other filters
Seen an E39 on Craigslist with crank no start status and now I'm watching this video like wtf. Is it even worth it? I'm attracted because of its age and low cost but I'm conflicted. I own an F10 and want to start spreading the usage down with another car.
Nathan
Thanks for the quick reply. Appreciate it and all you post
Love the video Nathan! Please explain to me how to do the m50 swap valve cover, and how to do CCV SWAP! THNAK YOU SO MUCH!
That's a lot, I do them one by one as day pop up one after another. Good video it helps to look for culprits. I just wish that the manufacturers watch it too without being proud of themselves
Its becoming routine to just pull these cars apart and address all the issues as soon as i get one in
what can cause smoke to come out the exaust. i know it does not have a blown head i check that.
If its oil smoke the ccv is bad, if its coolant maybe a crack in the head, if its a 99 and up e39 maybe stripped head bolts
Great video , cheers ! Abs pump/module always goes
Would this motor be still good if it had 170k miles? I’m looking at this 99 528i wagon that has 170k miles. Idk if I should pass it up
wish i wouldve seen this before buying my 328i
Chris J u having any issues?
luqy dollie I recently brought one. Just misfiring
shaking in idle
Tswagman00 motor mounts
Yeah, other brands with 20+ years need NO work at all, no maintenance - just drive and pedal to the metal...People's stupidity has no limits.
I have a problem with my97 528i touring with automatic transmission .Steering wheel is jurky at times and not smooth. I have to put more steering effort. When I bought the car the previous owner had run with low oil in the steering system. I top it of with ATF oil but the jerky steering still persists. I can feel it more on hot days thou. Another thing is that the belt squeals a bit in cold starts and then idle in gear. Is the pump shaft broken and thus making the steering jerky and the belt squeal ?
Usually if the shaft is broken the power steering will not work at all, , remember these do not use power steering fluid they use transmission fluid
After I topped off with ATF oil the steering is fine. But the squealling persists so im thinking that the belts needs replacement. Have you had a issue that the belt(s) can squeak if steering oil drips off on them ?
btw thank you for your responce
Could be that or a bad idler pulley
found a completley running one on copart for $450 buy it now. Thanks for the info
I donated one to that company about a year ago. Could have been mine haha.
hey nathan, i love your channel. you have helped me out with buying and maintaining my bmw and now im looking forward to buying another. Ive been doing a lot of research online but i havent found many people talking about a list of best/most reliable BMWs and i was wondering if you could make one yourself since you know so much about BMWs? if not then could you at least let me know which used BMW engines are your favorites based on their reliability and relative low cost of maintenance?
So basically everything having to do with the cooling system is made of cheap plastic and it is bound to crack and destroy the engine. Got it.
great video well done keep up the great work you are awesome!
Very accurate. But can you createa a video how to delete ccv and put on oil catch can? I have bimmber m52b28 96-08. It have most of the problems which you mentioned. Also liambdas often go down. Also what kind of adapter to put on metal valve cover for ventilation? And m50 intake manifold give extra power on high range, but on low range it kills Nm... Which this engine don't have..
Hello i already have catch can videos up for the m54, its the same principle , i even have a m52 ccv delete video up
But hey are different than M52B28. can you make specially for that? Or just show where is what connected on that vehicle in the video
So on the m52 you will need to remove the ccv and plug the intake where it was , plug the dipstick tube hose and run one side of the catch can to the valve cover and the other side to vacuum
Nathan's DIY Garage
use M54B30 intake manifold instead of M50 ;)
it solves the issue you mentioned
hey i got a 1999 323i automatic the car over heats and now it wont crank it just spends over should i just buy another motor?
My 1999 528i won't go past 45 and it smokes from the engine. Could that be a gasket issue or converter??? Help.
Damn, Now im really scared to get one as daily.
Ryosuke if you take care it it'll take care of you, so make sure when you get one as your daily , just be on top of everything, never neglect it and it will return the favor to you as well , just my .2 and experienced
Ryosuke don't be. most of everything he mentioned is easy fix. I have a 99 m3 soon as I bought it I changed the whole heating system full tune up tran ny fluid diff fluid some hoses. 4 years later not 1 single problem and I drive it hard
Ryosuke how much did yhat cost you
Cant remember it was a while ago i installed everything myself . Just do your research about where to buy. The aftermarket parts that didn't last me were valve cover gasket and ignition booths. Everything is pretty much aftermarket but not cheap aftermarket everything was probably less than a grand.
i just bought the whole cooling system kit costed me 261.99 at fcp website damn now I'm just wondering how much it'll cost me to replace it
My service engine light came on and it came back with these codes p0339 p0727. Which is the crankshaft sensor. I changed that with oem part from Napa. The brand is Meyle. But my car still runs like crap and the sel is still on. What should I do?
Great information. Very thorough
Mine has just started to get a rough idle when it gets half way to temprature, my c310 scanner is saying cylinder 4-6 o2 sensor however i just replaced that less than about 2000kms ago is there something else that can throw that code?
Hey amazing video! My e39 523i works fine when its cold but once It gets warm it starts losing power, sometimes dies, wont start, not driving smooth and electrical failures. I have no idea where to go from here, someone said that i should change my camshaft. I know that my Crankcase ventilation system has a lot of dirt in it but could that really cause these problems? What would you do? :) Thanks!
Dont know if its worth mentioning but the issues came after we filled the tank with wrong small ammount of fuel and with too much cleansing to lower the exhaust values. We also changed my 95 amps battery to 75 amps and put on a kat on my pipes which the car didnt have before. I have so much anxiety because I just got my drivers license and then this happened :/
Any codes? Could be many things
I've overheated and curious your opinion on damage to the rings becoming brittle. I'm weighting weather to swap the whole engine vs a replacement head. Also, can the heads be repaired or does they need to be tossed? Please advise and thanks very much
Steve Wuertz hello the head is trash once it's cracked, the rings never go bad from overheating on these engines
My m52 has a loud leak right inside the intake manifold ! What could it be?
I learned a lot watching this video
Notice that the aluminum valve cover is much better than the plastic one now used.
In which way better? It is just cover, there is no pressure inside except high temperature from engine head an oil.
Was the 523i also available in the US? We even had a 2l (520i) option over here in Europe. Also a pretty reliable M52 engine bit as you can guess...pretty slow
Well BMW engineer was driving 523 as daily, dont ask why...
@@The_Touring_Jedi in the US?
Just bought a 98 323i vert for 3k. Wish me luck fam
thanks for the video,,,,,,, if you dont mind, when you spoke about the powe steering fluid you mention it takes ATF otherwise it will leak but mine calls for the green can chf13 am i wrong? 97 e38 and my 2006 750li..... also i will check for the filter on the power steering system i didnt knw there was one on it,,,thanks
Hello the filter is in the bottom of the tank and gets replaced as one piece with the tank, for sure use trans fluid it should say atf only on the cap
+Nathan's DIY Garage thank you for the help, i will replace it thanks
can u do a vanos change with new timing tensinor? thx
Great video
Wait so this doesn't apply to a 2003 525i? I've heard people say "E39" when referring to that model so now I'm confused.
e39 until 2001 should be just fine.
I did that lower tentioner on passiger side still i can here noise on start up and when i rev motor pass 2000 to 3000 u can hear it .
Are you sure its not coming from a pulley or the fan? it could of broken the timing chain guide or you could have some really bad vanos seals, hard to say really, but its for sure fixable
I can get a sound clip for u
I wish i had someone here in pa to help me !!
I got a 99 528i that is idling/rough and cuts off at times any help
Should i get an e39 520i or e36 320i for first car idk what to do.
e39 is better
So basically just throw the whole car away and get something that isn't made of plastic lmao
damn was thinking of getting a e36 m3 but after seeing this video I'm having second thoughts now. There's seems to be a lot of weak points too many if cracks there goes your head, damn what doesn't destroy the head on the car? Now I could be wrong but just seems like more work than it's worth. I'll look for these issues and continue mt research hopefully I find a good car.
I need help with my 520i from 98 m52 hard start
what about 1998 z3 m still the same problems ?
bought my baby for 1300 and it idled like crap ,Now it runs like a top and I'm just fine tuning
Dave Ram what do you mean by idled? And what did you have to fix
hey i live in lancaster pa need help whit a bmw 528i has rattal on start up and when i rev motor i can hear what sounds like chain rattal from passiger side under the car can u help me .?
i would pul out the timing chain tensioner and make sure its ok
why would BMW build such problematic vehicle? Ps. I had an E39 M5 for seven years. I spent at least $30k in tuning/repairs
Sam Toure because you were a fool
Bmw M3 e46 exactly
Is it bad to buy a 1996 bmw 328i with 220,000 miles ?
thats too much, it probably need lots of service to keep going. Good service history and uf it's 1st owner you can take a risk.
Informative and nice, thx.
1:28 when i remove my oil cap and see a lot like tick white chocolate and little white smoke when start. This is bad head gasket or something else ? or i need timing tool with cylinder head ? thank you
It sounds like the ccv is getting ready to go, i would check out my ccv delete videos and maybe think about using a catch can
+Nathan's DIY Garage I was replaced with hose and code all clear . But after I drive few week later code coming back and I disconnected hose all I see oil. Do you what is my next step ?
Time to replace the ccv or do the catch can
Where is the engine number?
Security system
What about 740 il bmw?
Old comment, so sorry for replying if you’ve already got the car. Those motors have a deadly timing chain guide failure. They all fail, after 100-150k, and you’re just just rolling the dice every day hoping you don’t hear the chain start rattling. If you wait for it to start, you’ll have to stop driving the car immediately and replace them...a very labor intensive or costly job. Best to just factor the cost into your buying budget, or prepare to do it yourself first thing. If the guides go you’re playing Russian roulette by continuing to drive it
I'm 53 and have been driving Mercedes and BMW since I was 26. These cars are extremely UN- reliable and will nickel and dime you to death I know I have lived it and NEVER again. The minute 1 thing is fixed another thing goes to shit and on and on it goes. As a daily driver you literally take your chances.The beauty and engineering will suck you in and down the rabbit hole ya go. It's not worth the constant $$ hit and headaches ~ My next vehicle will not be German ~
Well older ones made until 2001 are just fine Engines M52 are just fine and reliable.
96 starts doulbe trouble vanoss, electrical thermostats and other electric crap. Simply not worth. These cars sells for like 900$ her but will cost 10x times to maintain
98 starts double vanos with M52TÜ engine, check your facts.
@@The_Touring_Jedi The first double VANOS system appeared on the S50B32 engine in 1996.
@@The_Touring_Jedi I dont care any way i hate bmw and their idiot drivers
is that not a M54 engine?
2022 where e36s are selling for 4-5k
Yes is all true.
so the 99 e-36 does come with an M52?
+vewdew3 in 1999 you could get the e36 m52 or the e46 with the m52tu
yeah i just looked it up, im starting to believe my 528i e39 was Frankensteined ...lol but your videos have helped so much, just having to save money to throw parts a it... catch can has still yet to come in...
Clean the icv and check the throttle body boot
is the check engine light on? If so what are the codes?
possible crank sensor but also could be getting a bad coil pack or problems with the ccv leaking
U dont work on m30 engines
there is NO cheap BMW driving...
Quality
so basically dont get one of these...
So what are some of the somewhat reliable BMWs out there?
Peter the real question is how reliable of an owner are you?
My god so they're pretty much garbage
Well in Germany are considered pretty reliable cars, I' m not sure what they have delivered to USA market, but here in Europe these cars have still good price. if you get one 5 speed manual 1998 with only 85k miles for just 2k you are lucky guy they go up to 8k with less than 100k miles.
Worthless...