This is that Japanese boring head right? nice to see you machine a bore with her this is going to come out right to be sure. She is built wit so many features once you know how to operate her as you clearly do, she is really able to accomplish quit a bit, it is quit impressive, strong accurate and able bodied nice boring bar we see during the zoom in to these two micro-machinists. Thank you Lance & Patrick.
Hi Paul , i have never used this type of boring head ( would love one along with a 3d taster but the coin outlay out ways the need !) what i’m curious about is if you could use the auto trip to set a cut off point when boring a cylinder ? I was thinking it would be handy if you could take a primary cut then measure and then set the auto stop using feeler gauges or gauge blocks to set the trip point for each depth of cut or even better set a final cut off and just wind the ring around X amount of turn / turns each cut.
You would have been better off with a nicely sharpened and oilstoned HSS tool of much shorter length. Replaceable inserts are crap, especially on aluminium unless you buy expensive genuine aluminium type. I suspect you were using a Chinese elcheapo and elcrappo general purpose insert. With that head, can you adjust the facing feed rate, The Genuine Wauhaupter ones you can. I suppose to get around the patent / copyright they added the top ring you use for facing, but that pin access is in a crap place. My genuine Wauhapter has the pin directly in the top knurled ring and is easy to get to and operate. Make yourself a pin eject tool like the genuine one, simpler to use that a screwdriver as it has a milled recess in one end that locates under the pin head and does not slip off like a screwdriver can. If you can give me an email address I can send you a sketch with dimensions and a photograph of the eject tool.
Excellent video, I just purchased the same unit. Did you have a manual with yours? I'm missing that and I was wondering if I could get a digital copy if you had one? Thank you and excellent work on the video.
Love boring heads but not the chatter. Are they prone to the same chatter on the lathe with a rigid spindle? (i'm guessing the loose quill bore gives problems)
I've never had much luck with any of the cheap off shore carbide I've tried so far. Sandvik Coromant has a really good YT video showing how they make there replaceable carbide tips. It's a highly automated but still no doubt expensive process to do it correctly no matter where in the world it's being done, and labor costs would have very little to do with the final selling price. I'm no expert, but that cheap price always means to me that for cutting tools one or more steps were missed or corners were cut to meet that low price point. I'd be willing to bet a decent quality tip on Paul's boring bar would have resulted in far better results without all the chatter this video was showing.
It couldn't be the sloppy fit of the bar in the head could it , sorry Paul couldn't resist. 😉 It almost certainly is the tip, Aluminium does like really sharp tools.
@@turningpoint6643 Chatter with boring heads even with very sharp tools is still a bugger. Only heavy cuts that really plant the quill into the quill bore seem to work
@@bubster1981 I'd certainly agree, I've got some short stubby braised 5/8ths dia. bars that came with my Narex B/F head that don't seem to chatter anywhere as easy as the one in the video did. Tool stick out is a big part of the tool producing chatter as well. My usual first method when it starts happening no matter what tool it is would be to reduce the rpm and up the feed rate. 95% of the time that does make a big difference. To be fair Paul's bar diameter to length ratio was maybe a lot more than ideal for a hardened steel bar.
Hi Paul, I think one of the main causes of your chatter, is that you have the cutting face of insert facing to the "back" of the boring head, this means that the cutting forces is going into the screw and not into the "body" of the boring head, maby you can better see what I mean from this video from Bruce Whitham ua-cam.com/video/CLirHhlFQcs/v-deo.html at about 1:20.
Hey dude do yourself a favor and use German machine for milling steel. I once owned a bridge port as well. Then i switched over to Deckel. Since some years now. In my opinion the bridgeport is good for milling Wood and plastic without Shatter😀
It's not the mill, it's the boring bar extension. This would happen on any mill. The Bridgeport is a good milling machine, they're used all over the US with excellent results.
@@mosfet500 belive me it is an Other world in therms of stiffnes. Please Look up Deckel FP3L for example. I am Sure it would performe this wo Chatter. I already did many similar boring operations.
Chatter is a result of many factors: cutter sharpness, length of boring bar, cutting speed & feed, material hardness, etc. Not only the machine and it's rigidity. German machines are good but so are Bridgeports too.
Do NOT use gloves with rotating machines! A rotating part can catch the glove and this may lead to a serious injury. Loose sleeves are dangerous as well.
It is a Japanese copy of the UPA3 Wolhaupter boring and facing head, I just picked one up which had a little damage from a loose int40 arbour, which I have rectified and replaced with an R8, it has so far cost me £90, but I need to purchase some boring bars for it, or make some of my own insert holders
That boring head is a great piece of kit.
Maybe a shorter boring bar would solve some of your chatter problem. The tool stickout looked excessive for a facing cut.
RonW
This is that Japanese boring head right? nice to see you machine a bore with her this is going to come out right to be sure. She is built wit so many features once you know how to operate her as you clearly do, she is really able to accomplish quit a bit, it is quit impressive, strong accurate and able bodied nice boring bar we see during the zoom in to these two micro-machinists. Thank you Lance & Patrick.
looks german to me ...
Don’t forget if you mount the tool on the other side of the head you can face inwards if you need to face the bottom of a blind hole FYI
Simple trick, add your cutting oil to the tool instead of to the work. Gravity will feed oil onto the cutting edge for you.
Hi Paul , i have never used this type of boring head ( would love one along with a 3d taster but the coin outlay out ways the need !) what i’m curious about is if you could use the auto trip to set a cut off point when boring a cylinder ? I was thinking it would be handy if you could take a primary cut then measure and then set the auto stop using feeler gauges or gauge blocks to set the trip point for each depth of cut or even better set a final cut off and just wind the ring around X amount of turn / turns each cut.
You would have been better off with a nicely sharpened and oilstoned HSS tool of much shorter length. Replaceable inserts are crap, especially on aluminium unless you buy expensive genuine aluminium type. I suspect you were using a Chinese elcheapo and elcrappo general purpose insert. With that head, can you adjust the facing feed rate, The Genuine Wauhaupter ones you can. I suppose to get around the patent / copyright they added the top ring you use for facing, but that pin access is in a crap place. My genuine Wauhapter has the pin directly in the top knurled ring and is easy to get to and operate. Make yourself a pin eject tool like the genuine one, simpler to use that a screwdriver as it has a milled recess in one end that locates under the pin head and does not slip off like a screwdriver can. If you can give me an email address I can send you a sketch with dimensions and a photograph of the eject tool.
if i were you i wouldn't have gloves like that to work around rotating parts, nearly lost a hand like that, put latex HD gloves, they will rip
Excellent video, I just purchased the same unit. Did you have a manual with yours? I'm missing that and I was wondering if I could get a digital copy if you had one? Thank you and excellent work on the video.
It's a copy of the Wohlhaupter UPA series. The manuals can be found online.
@@EVguru brilliant thank you!
Thanks for sharing. Put a block under you part and clamp it down as you not going all the through it. Nice work!!!
Love boring heads but not the chatter. Are they prone to the same chatter on the lathe with a rigid spindle? (i'm guessing the loose quill bore gives problems)
& the leverage length from the cutting edge acting on the quill.
I've never had much luck with any of the cheap off shore carbide I've tried so far. Sandvik Coromant has a really good YT video showing how they make there replaceable carbide tips. It's a highly automated but still no doubt expensive process to do it correctly no matter where in the world it's being done, and labor costs would have very little to do with the final selling price. I'm no expert, but that cheap price always means to me that for cutting tools one or more steps were missed or corners were cut to meet that low price point. I'd be willing to bet a decent quality tip on Paul's boring bar would have resulted in far better results without all the chatter this video was showing.
It couldn't be the sloppy fit of the bar in the head could it , sorry Paul couldn't resist. 😉 It almost certainly is the tip, Aluminium does like really sharp tools.
@@turningpoint6643 Chatter with boring heads even with very sharp tools is still a bugger. Only heavy cuts that really plant the quill into the quill bore seem to work
@@bubster1981 I'd certainly agree, I've got some short stubby braised 5/8ths dia. bars that came with my Narex B/F head that don't seem to chatter anywhere as easy as the one in the video did. Tool stick out is a big part of the tool producing chatter as well. My usual first method when it starts happening no matter what tool it is would be to reduce the rpm and up the feed rate. 95% of the time that does make a big difference. To be fair Paul's bar diameter to length ratio was maybe a lot more than ideal for a hardened steel bar.
The boring bar is too long hence the chatter. Put in a shorter bar and an insert with less corner radius. .032" should be adequate.
Hi Paul, I think one of the main causes of your chatter, is that you have the cutting face of insert facing to the "back" of the boring head, this means that the cutting forces is going into the screw and not into the "body" of the boring head, maby you can better see what I mean from this video from Bruce Whitham ua-cam.com/video/CLirHhlFQcs/v-deo.html at about 1:20.
Hey dude do yourself a favor and use German machine for milling steel. I once owned a bridge port as well. Then i switched over to Deckel. Since some years now. In my opinion the bridgeport is good for milling Wood and plastic without Shatter😀
It's not the mill, it's the boring bar extension. This would happen on any mill. The Bridgeport is a good milling machine, they're used all over the US with excellent results.
@@mosfet500 belive me it is an Other world in therms of stiffnes. Please Look up Deckel FP3L for example. I am Sure it would performe this wo Chatter. I already did many similar boring operations.
Chatter is a result of many factors: cutter sharpness, length of boring bar, cutting speed & feed, material hardness, etc. Not only the machine and it's rigidity. German machines are good but so are Bridgeports too.
UPA 4?
Kurt is Hurt...
Do NOT use gloves with rotating machines! A rotating part can catch the glove and this may lead to a serious injury. Loose sleeves are dangerous as well.
That head looks like a knockoff of the Wolhaupter boring head from Germany.
It is a Japanese copy of the UPA3 Wolhaupter boring and facing head, I just picked one up which had a little damage from a loose int40 arbour, which I have rectified and replaced with an R8, it has so far cost me £90, but I need to purchase some boring bars for it, or make some of my own insert holders