Thanks for the video, as I was just about to do this myself. FYI: Just setting it to the middle line doesn't mean it's perfect. For example, when the line is in the middle, you can still get to 2500-3000 rpm before the injectors squirt more fuel into the cylinders (line moves to the top). With that high of a setting you will be having a jerky and rough ride in lower gears and lower rpms. Optimally you should calibrate the TPS until the line is in the middle at idle, and moves to the top between 1450-1600 RPM. The bike needs to be running of course. It can take a second or two for the line to move, so go slow on the throttle. I drive a lot of slow and blind bends, so often at slow speed in second gear. The jerkyness when I go back to the throttle is exhausting over time, and it doesn't matter how smooth I am. I have no idea why Suzuki isn't more precise about this in the manual. Would love a follow up video where you try this calibration, and maybe post if you notice any differences in the ride at lower gears/RPM. PS: The engine needs to be warm before making these adjustments. Thank you again for the video. :)
Loving all your stuff on the good ol SV1000, bought mine new in 2003 and thought I knew most things about the bike, until you came along to clearly explain things. 😀👍👍👍
Thanks for the videos and the paper clip trick . I managed to diagnose it was the throttle body sensor code and fix its position . First time ever and saved me a few quid . Thankyou !
Thanks Was having trouble sputtering between 2500 and 4500. Recently had throttle bodies synced. Started sputtering after 200 miles after got worse came across your video, followed the instructions and cleared right up and runs smooth throughout the rpm range. Gonna double check it after work when it has ran longer. Will save a few hundred dollars. Thanks! 🏍
Another thing to look for is fuel pump, if low fuel pressure will make it sputter as well. Fuel pumps are pricey. Find a good condition preowned one for replacement.
Oh man!!!! You did it. I was just about at my wits end with my bike immediately dying after starting everytime. It got worse and worse and I tried everything but I couldn't find anybody or anything to explain your dealer mode trick and then to explain and show perfectly how to adjust the positioning sensor. I have an 03 sv650 that I love. I was about to drop a grand to find out what was wrong. Now I'm back riding with no problem after your 5 min video. I could kiss your bald head and call you Budah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Aren't you supposed to leave the tank on it and try to bring the rpm to an expected number 1.5k or 2k before you see the middle bar going to the top position ? It has to be precise to have the performance you want, so making a mark on it after you reach the perfect settings makes sense.
Thank you for this video as it is very helpful. My 2015 SFV650’s TPS is set so that the dash is in the mid position but the white line is about a full cm away from the white line on the carb. This is how I found it when I went to adjust the TPS. I bought the bike last year and have been trying to find out why my idle is rough. I thought it might be the TPS after watching loads of UA-cam vids. I came across your video which explains the adjustment so clearly. Can you explain why my TPS white line is so far away from the white line on 5he carb, yet, the dash is in the mid position at idle and jumps to the upper position at around 2000rpm? I’m hoping you can offer some advice. Thanks.
Hey Kev , have a sv1000 2005 it has a missfire rear cylinder dies out and has a wet plug when i take it out . when i ride and open the taps at high revs both cylinders cuts out and then come back online once slowing down have no idea what to do had big flames when it miss fires tps shows ontop when i idle ? What could it be . Thanks
Could a misaligned TPS be the reason my 2008 Vstrom 1000 misfires? It only seems to happen in either 3rd or 4th gear, between 2,500 and 3,500rpm at around 60kph on a flat road.
another excellent video. thank you. will we get to see the sv on the road at any time? im tempted to buy one myself, which is how i came to find your channel.
Hey there. My 2006 sv650 has this weird problem where if I ride it for a little while it will randomly then idle at 5000rmp no matter what I do. The only way to sort the problem is by turning the bike off for a few seconds and then back on
Same issue. No matter how much I adjust it and the engine idle screw. After riding it a half a mile or so, revving just diminishes until it dies. Out in neutral and it fires right back up and will ride good for maybe quarter mile then immediately starts diminishing in power again and dies. I don't know what to do next to fix it. No codes shown 🤷🏾♂️
Absolutely correct, the TL manual does indeed tell you to do it with the engine running, the SV manual however tells you to stop the engine before making the adjustments, it should be up to temperature and the idle adjusted to 1200 RPM (+ or - 100 RPM). Not too sure why they do it differently considering how alike the 2 engines are! But that's what the manual says! 👍🤓
I tried to do the TPS setup on my K5 1000S with stopped and warmed up engine, but after each engine start, the TPS indication always wandered away... So I succeeded with the TPS setup only when the engine was running.
Thank you for your video! I am having some trouble with my Suzuki, when I go above 80mph the bike jerks and the rmp gauge drops all the way to zero and then it goes back up, do you think adjusting the TPS might solve this problem?
Hi just stumbled across your channel subbed 👍 I have a Sv and it is coffin and spluttering Tried adjusting the TPS as you show but the line stays on the bottom what ever position I put it in do you think it is dead ? Thanks Matt 👍
It sounds like it mate, I would expect a reaction from it of some kind. There is a test that can be done on the sensor itself. I’m not able to look in the manual right now but I’ll reply later and let you know the details 👍🏻 alternatively head over to the Kev’s Shed Facebook group and ask in there as I’ll be able to post the necessary pages from the manual. 👌🏻😎
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a kind of variable resistor which detects the throttle opening angle in order to provide the ECM with the data it needs for correct fueling. The voltage that is supplied to the sensor via the loom is converted by the sensor into an operating voltage that the ECM uses to convert into a data figure. The operating time of the fuel injectors is determined by the voltage signal returned. If the sensor is not set correctly then potentially the signal could be (read as WILL be) affected which will in turn raise or lower the voltage received by the ECM. 👌🤓
@@KevsShedForgive me if I’m misunderstanding. This adjustment was to bring it to factory spec? But don’t many riders adjust this to help get rid of the 2.5k V-twin engine rattle. The following is from the SV Portal, do you agree with this? “Fuel injected Suzukis have a sensor that senses what revs the engine is at and then tells the fuel injection and engine management systems to alter (basically to start squirting more fuel into the cylinders). MOST bikes are set wrongly and this causes the bike to be jerky at slow speeds (due to the fact that there's not enough fuel getting into the engine & then all of a sudden the fuel starts pumping in faster but by then it's a bit late!! This adjustment rectifies the problem!”
Hello. Changed the engine of my 2003 SV 1000. New motor is from a newer generation. Changed the cam on the rear cylinder to accomodate the cam sensor. Also went into dealer mode and set the throtte position sensor to center dash as your video shows. First i get a -c00 then when i crank i get - c24 snd 25. (Ignition) bike refuses to start. Any ideas.? Thanks.
Hello, my problem is C45 on the dashboard after putting the bike in dealer mode. This code is for Fuel Trim Bank 1, the check engine light lit when the bike is idle after a long ride. Is it easy to fix myself?
My initial thought for a fuel trim error is that unmetered air is being drawn in somewhere. Check for any loose clams, air leaks or vacuum leaks. A fuel trim problem basically means that the ECU is attempting to compensate for the added air by injecting extra fuel, the ECU can only compensate up to a certain limit however. This would be my first check.
Hey man! There is definitely something not right with your bike, the rev limiter is somewhere around the 11k mark although I can't remember the exact figure off the top of my head! For info, the SVThou makes peak torque at around 7500 RPM and peak BHP at around 9300 RPM so there is a problem somewhere! Does you bike have the FI light lit on the dash? Have you tried to put it into dealer mode and see if there is a code stored? It could be something simple like a vacuum hose that has come off, or even a problem with fuel delivery. Then again it could be an electrical/ignition problem! Start by checking for fault codes and go from there!
I would say there’s a cable problem. The TPS doesn’t directly affect RPM as it’s the butterfly’s inside the throttle bodies that do that. The TPS simply informs the ECU of the position of the butterfly’s
Thanks for the video, as I was just about to do this myself. FYI: Just setting it to the middle line doesn't mean it's perfect. For example, when the line is in the middle, you can still get to 2500-3000 rpm before the injectors squirt more fuel into the cylinders (line moves to the top). With that high of a setting you will be having a jerky and rough ride in lower gears and lower rpms.
Optimally you should calibrate the TPS until the line is in the middle at idle, and moves to the top between 1450-1600 RPM. The bike needs to be running of course. It can take a second or two for the line to move, so go slow on the throttle.
I drive a lot of slow and blind bends, so often at slow speed in second gear. The jerkyness when I go back to the throttle is exhausting over time, and it doesn't matter how smooth I am.
I have no idea why Suzuki isn't more precise about this in the manual.
Would love a follow up video where you try this calibration, and maybe post if you notice any differences in the ride at lower gears/RPM.
PS: The engine needs to be warm before making these adjustments.
Thank you again for the video. :)
Loving all your stuff on the good ol SV1000, bought mine new in 2003 and thought I knew most things about the bike, until you came along to clearly explain things. 😀👍👍👍
Thanks for the videos and the paper clip trick . I managed to diagnose it was the throttle body sensor code and fix its position . First time ever and saved me a few quid . Thankyou !
Thanks
Was having trouble sputtering between 2500 and 4500. Recently had throttle bodies synced. Started sputtering after 200 miles after got worse came across your video, followed the instructions and cleared right up and runs smooth throughout the rpm range. Gonna double check it after work when it has ran longer. Will save a few hundred dollars. Thanks! 🏍
mine is sputtering around the 2500 to 3500. good to know it looks like I'm barking up the right tree
Another thing to look for is fuel pump, if low fuel pressure will make it sputter as well. Fuel pumps are pricey. Find a good condition preowned one for replacement.
Oh man!!!! You did it. I was just about at my wits end with my bike immediately dying after starting everytime. It got worse and worse and I tried everything but I couldn't find anybody or anything to explain your dealer mode trick and then to explain and show perfectly how to adjust the positioning sensor. I have an 03 sv650 that I love. I was about to drop a grand to find out what was wrong. Now I'm back riding with no problem after your 5 min video. I could kiss your bald head and call you Budah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you! It fixed mine right up. You saved me $300.
Aren't you supposed to leave the tank on it and try to bring the rpm to an expected number 1.5k or 2k before you see the middle bar going to the top position ?
It has to be precise to have the performance you want, so making a mark on it after you reach the perfect settings makes sense.
I followed the factory manual to the letter bud.
The wife is getting very good with the filming
Cheers Derek, i'll tell her that you said so! 👍🤓
Thank you for this video as it is very helpful. My 2015 SFV650’s TPS is set so that the dash is in the mid position but the white line is about a full cm away from the white line on the carb. This is how I found it when I went to adjust the TPS. I bought the bike last year and have been trying to find out why my idle is rough. I thought it might be the TPS after watching loads of UA-cam vids. I came across your video which explains the adjustment so clearly. Can you explain why my TPS white line is so far away from the white line on 5he carb, yet, the dash is in the mid position at idle and jumps to the upper position at around 2000rpm?
I’m hoping you can offer some advice. Thanks.
Thanks Kev! That sorted the problem I had on the second hand SV 650 I recently bought.
Where to in Wales are you?
When I jump those two wires it says "check" but it won't go into the codes (tps dash) when I turn the rocker/kill red switch :(
Hey Kev , have a sv1000 2005 it has a missfire rear cylinder dies out and has a wet plug when i take it out . when i ride and open the taps at high revs both cylinders cuts out and then come back online once slowing down have no idea what to do had big flames when it miss fires tps shows ontop when i idle ? What could it be . Thanks
Could a misaligned TPS be the reason my 2008 Vstrom 1000 misfires? It only seems to happen in either 3rd or 4th gear, between 2,500 and 3,500rpm at around 60kph on a flat road.
another excellent video. thank you.
will we get to see the sv on the road at any time?
im tempted to buy one myself, which is how i came to find your channel.
That's the plan! It's coming along!
nice series! keep on
Thanks, will do!
The dash goes up whenever I get to 4k rpm could this also be sign of bad sensor?
Hey there. My 2006 sv650 has this weird problem where if I ride it for a little while it will randomly then idle at 5000rmp no matter what I do. The only way to sort the problem is by turning the bike off for a few seconds and then back on
Same issue. No matter how much I adjust it and the engine idle screw. After riding it a half a mile or so, revving just diminishes until it dies. Out in neutral and it fires right back up and will ride good for maybe quarter mile then immediately starts diminishing in power again and dies. I don't know what to do next to fix it. No codes shown 🤷🏾♂️
Does it apply the same way for SFV650 Gladius?
Does anyone know if the position of the TPS is the same in a 2 gen 650 v-strom?
Thanks! Just want I wanted to do today!
However, with TL1000 it should be running idle and warm. Is this not the case with SV?
Absolutely correct, the TL manual does indeed tell you to do it with the engine running, the SV manual however tells you to stop the engine before making the adjustments, it should be up to temperature and the idle adjusted to 1200 RPM (+ or - 100 RPM). Not too sure why they do it differently considering how alike the 2 engines are! But that's what the manual says! 👍🤓
I tried to do the TPS setup on my K5 1000S with stopped and warmed up engine, but after each engine start, the TPS indication always wandered away... So I succeeded with the TPS setup only when the engine was running.
Its not 100% necessary for it to be warm or running. I adjust mine with a multimeter. Its way more accurate than the 3 lines.
Thank you for your video! I am having some trouble with my Suzuki, when I go above 80mph the bike jerks and the rmp gauge drops all the way to zero and then it goes back up, do you think adjusting the TPS might solve this problem?
Not sure it will to be fair, have you put the bike in dealer mode and checked for any fault codes?
Dunno if you figured it out yet but mine did the same and it turned out to be the kickstand switch at those speeds causing it.
@@elijahgabriel1325 is this a matter of better adjusting it? Or have found a fix for it?
@@KevsShed I checked the TPS sensor adjustment mode on the bike not sure if this what you mean by dealership mode?
@@jorgesolorio620 I just cut out the switch and spliced it together.
Hi just stumbled across your channel subbed 👍 I have a Sv and it is coffin and spluttering
Tried adjusting the TPS as you show but the line stays on the bottom what ever position I put it in do you think it is dead ?
Thanks Matt 👍
It sounds like it mate, I would expect a reaction from it of some kind. There is a test that can be done on the sensor itself. I’m not able to look in the manual right now but I’ll reply later and let you know the details 👍🏻 alternatively head over to the Kev’s Shed Facebook group and ask in there as I’ll be able to post the necessary pages from the manual. 👌🏻😎
@@KevsShed thanks really appreciate that , will check out the Facebook page
@@mattward5335 I've sent you a message in the group chap!
@@KevsShed what was the problem? my TPS "-" wont move position on the cluster, but it does affect the bike while idling.
Really the correct way to do this is with a multi meter. You should have 1.2v dc at idle and 4.5 at wot. You can test this without the bike running.
Hi, you mean 1.12V ?
@@franksagen5049 thats the very lowest it will go. Mine doesnt seem to like it there.
My suzuki sv1000s has a fault code dash above C 017 I don't know what sensor it is. could you help me

The manual lists it as rear intake air pressure sensor, I would guess it’s a connector problem as it’s not a commonly failing sensor.
So what does it mean when the minus is in the up position?
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a kind of variable resistor which detects the throttle opening angle in order to provide the ECM with the data it needs for correct fueling. The voltage that is supplied to the sensor via the loom is converted by the sensor into an operating voltage that the ECM uses to convert into a data figure. The operating time of the fuel injectors is determined by the voltage signal returned. If the sensor is not set correctly then potentially the signal could be (read as WILL be) affected which will in turn raise or lower the voltage received by the ECM. 👌🤓
@@KevsShedForgive me if I’m misunderstanding. This adjustment was to bring it to factory spec? But don’t many riders adjust this to help get rid of the 2.5k V-twin engine rattle. The following is from the SV Portal, do you agree with this? “Fuel injected Suzukis have a sensor that senses what revs the engine is at and then tells the fuel injection and engine management systems to alter (basically to start squirting more fuel into the cylinders). MOST bikes are set wrongly and this causes the bike to be jerky at slow speeds (due to the fact that there's not enough fuel getting into the engine & then all of a sudden the fuel starts pumping in faster but by then it's a bit late!! This adjustment rectifies the problem!”
Hello. Changed the engine of my 2003 SV 1000. New motor is from a newer generation. Changed the cam on the rear cylinder to accomodate the cam sensor. Also went into dealer mode and set the throtte position sensor to center dash as your video shows. First i get a -c00 then when i crank i get - c24 snd 25. (Ignition) bike refuses to start. Any ideas.? Thanks.
Is the green connector under the tank in good condition? Check for damaged wiring or charring if the connector block. 👍🏻
Thanks for replying. The one plugged into the airbox?.. if so, it seems fine.
@@rahjanigrenie367 No mate, it's right up by the headstock and goes to the ignition switch.
😥😥 green plug is fine!! Im lost at this point.
Great videos by the way.
Hello, my problem is C45 on the dashboard after putting the bike in dealer mode. This code is for Fuel Trim Bank 1, the check engine light lit when the bike is idle after a long ride. Is it easy to fix myself?
My initial thought for a fuel trim error is that unmetered air is being drawn in somewhere. Check for any loose clams, air leaks or vacuum leaks. A fuel trim problem basically means that the ECU is attempting to compensate for the added air by injecting extra fuel, the ECU can only compensate up to a certain limit however. This would be my first check.
@@KevsShed Thank you sir!!!
On my carbed zx9r I’ve eliminated the tps all together. Runs better without it. But on fuel injected bikes you can’t do that
What does a tps do on a carburated bike? Never understood it. My relatives yzf 750 has it as well
@@rem362 Not sure, but it affects the fireing in the cylinders at low rpm.
Hey mate I have sv1000 and it's got a rev limiter of 5200 is that all it supposed to rev 2 or is it supposed to rev to 11000
Hey man! There is definitely something not right with your bike, the rev limiter is somewhere around the 11k mark although I can't remember the exact figure off the top of my head! For info, the SVThou makes peak torque at around 7500 RPM and peak BHP at around 9300 RPM so there is a problem somewhere! Does you bike have the FI light lit on the dash? Have you tried to put it into dealer mode and see if there is a code stored? It could be something simple like a vacuum hose that has come off, or even a problem with fuel delivery. Then again it could be an electrical/ignition problem! Start by checking for fault codes and go from there!
I have fitted a new throttle tube and now if I start the bike it revs up to 5.5k doing the tps adjustment should fix this shouldn't it ?
No
@@KevsShed need to adjust the cables then ?
I would say there’s a cable problem. The TPS doesn’t directly affect RPM as it’s the butterfly’s inside the throttle bodies that do that. The TPS simply informs the ECU of the position of the butterfly’s
Thanks for the replies:)
Easy day!
My mechanic doesn’t like you.
😂😂😂