Bed Lift system
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- The track actuators are from www.progressiv...
I used a custom length version of the PA-18 track actuator. www.progressiv...
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I saw those actuators on aliexpress when I was trying to figure out how to do my setup... Looking great as always. You have way more patience than I do. Keep up the great work!
Do you mind posting a link? :)
Give me my finger back! The ceiling ponders briefly, considers where that finger may have been and let go.
Solid work as always!
Dang...nothing to make a snarky comment about that wasn't taken. Huh...
Great job! I think you were right to put the motors up top too!
I used linear actuators to support and raise and lower my bed too, also with an 8020 frame and mounts. It works great. Planning on my new camper with some linear actuators to slide the bed forward and backward. Fun to watch you doing similar things.
I really like the track actuators so far.
@@BrokeOverLand Yes, they are great. In my Sprinter camper van, I could not use track actuators due to the curved van walls since the actuators pivot in as the bed raises, and the ones I used are IP67 rated, so can handle a wash down in my garage space below the bed. But I'll be using some of all three types of actuators in my new build--standard, tubular and track. Will be fun!
We do use the same controller with the four preset heights, which is great for easy push and walk away adjust to those preset levels/heights.
the only question is why have them reverse mounted, logic says to put the motors on the bottom.
That’s was my first idea. But I couldn’t come up with an easy way to replace them when the crap out, without having the motors visible above the back of the dinette. This way they are hidden when the bed is up.
I REALLY LIKE THAT!!! Well done, Chad! Don't mind if we take that link and adapt one of those actuators into a GT design collaboration with a Mechanical Engineer who bought a GT habitat. That solves the last tiny issue we had... thanks my friend!
Adapt away. :) I would like to see what other folks come up with.
Which specific controller did you buy that syncs all 4 Linear Actuators and is it wireless for the PA-18, which I assumed you used? Is that all you used to control the motion? It looks like the PA-18 has a 10 percent speed error so it could bind and lock up the bed, not being Hall sensors. Or did you have them make you hall sensor versions?
I used the FLTCON-4 controller. You can get the PA-18’s with Hall effect sensors. I did run into an issue on this last road trip where the actuators drifted with the vibration of driving, so I had to re-home the actuators to get the bed to operate.
Progressive automation is easy to work with for custom orders. Send them an email and let them know what you need.
As for binding the bed. The brackets I made allow for a lot of angle of offset before running into binding issues.
Nice video. Can you share the details of the controller?
Does your bed frame have a guide with linear bearings or poly wheels to hold it in position? Or does your setup use the tracks as guide.
Is there any way I can get a parts list for the bed frame?
Chad, in another video you had mentioned being able to articulate the bed, so that you could tilt not just front to back, but side to side or a combination of that. If you mount a square frame to the 4 actuators that's obviously not possible when mounted directly. Did you give up on that idea or are you going to create some kind of floating bed frame mounts to do that? I can picture in my head how that might be done but sadly I've not found a way to quit my day job yet to go and buy and LMTV myself and have a go at turning it into an RV.... which quite frankly looks like a lot of fun.
The square block on the actuator side has a rod to allow movement from side to side. The rod is attached to a Hyme joint to allow rotation. And the hyme joint is attached to the bed frame via a rod to allow for increase and decrease distance from the actuator.
Hope that helps
The square block is actually two plates with a rod in between.
Is the metal track really lighter a system than wood ... trying to find a decent answer is hard to find? I would think the 80.20 & slide in some 1/8th ply would make lighter cabinets?
Size to strength ratito I’m going to say yes. Is it massively more expensive? Also a yes. That said a couple of things to keep in mind. There are 2 different versions of 8020 in each size. The -L version is lighter and take advantage of the designers at 8020 or a reseller. If you have a napkin drawing with measurements, they can figure out the best connectors and corner fixtures to use. The down side is, they are not exactly cost conscious. But their material list is a good place to start. In the end, I went with 8020 because I like the look of it. If you’re a good cabinet maker, wood is definitely a solid way to go for the price.
Those looks great! A few questions: How tall is your ceiling and what would be the finished ceiling height above the dinette after the bed frame is installed? I’ve been thinking about designing my bed using actuators, but I have teenagers and am worried about acts of jackassery that happens when no adults are present. Are there any safety devices that reverses the actuators if they are energized when someone is in bed?
There should be 48 - 52” from the seat cushion to the bottom of the raised bed. Overall interior height of the truck is 82 inches.
I do have pressure switches in my dinette table that stop or reverse direction if a pressure differential is measured. So I imagine they could do something in the bed left. I don’t have that in mine.
Looks like it's going to be hard to change out those water filters.
It’s not too bad, There is a ton of room bellow them. So you spin them off and drop them down and swing them over to the open slot.
The controller you used toward the end looks like what I have on my IKEA standing desk. Did that come with the actuators or did you add that yourself? If you did add it, is there anything special you did to make it work, or does it basically just act like a switch?
It is literally a standing desk controller that is one of the available control systems from the company. I’m just using this control system until I have time to design my own. My first two designs are not as robust as I want them to be.
Loved the video and design! Can you provide links to the actuators please?
www.progressiveautomations.com/pages/track-linear-actuators
@@BrokeOverLand thank you! Keep up the great content
its so soft thats great the others ive seen are too loud for stealth
Just saw this thing rolling thru Bothell on my way home from lunch. Fucking badass set up man!
are those aluminum shades over your windows?
Blackout if you pull one way and screens if you slide them the other way.
Their website is very hard to navigate. Could u specify the model#?
I used PA-18 track actuators custom cut to length and control it (for now) with an FLTCON-4 controller. Hope that helps
@@BrokeOverLand tx for the info!
@@BrokeOverLand Which length did you order?
I had them custom made to 46” and Hall effect sensors added.
Where did you buy your rv windows from please?
I got them through www.ternoverland.com/
you look frustrated
Thank you for sharing