P0401 2002 F150 EGR System Overview and Troubleshooting Guide
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- I recently suffered the very common P0401 error code on my 2002 F150 4.6L 4x4. I spent hours researching the problem on various forums and UA-cam. I decided to make a video that provides the amateur with an overview of the P0401 problem, the EGR system, typical points of failure, and a trouble shooting guide.
P.S. I don't want this to be a spoiler, but WranglerStar was right. Had I not been a wussy and turned the actual repair part over to mechanics as opposed to trying to fix it myself, I would have saved $300 ($240 of which was for unnecessary repairs) and many hours of running around.
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I wish I could like this more than once. As an engineer myself, I found your review comprehensive and well rounded. By providing folks with the requisite knowledge of the entire system, you have armed them with the confidence to move forward in their own repairs. Your troubleshooting is methodical, and follows a logical order in component elimination. I applaud you for spending time to educate, you have a gift. Thank you again.
Fully agreed. Bless this man for spending the few minutes to explain this properly.
he should have his own radio station for jazz or smooth music
True
or comercial pilot.
That's hilarious Zoe, at the end of his videos he should say "Smoooooth Jaaaaaaazzzz...
Yeah, I had to watch it on 2x, to keep from falling asleep. 😴
Disconnect the hose to the EGR and if the engine smooths, it is NOT the EGR valve. It's upstream. Autozone only checks codes if the check engine light is on. Hook up a Mityvac and pump it up to about 8". If it holds, the EGR is o.k. If it leaks down, it's bad. With the engine running, pump up the EGR and the engine should run rough. If not, the EGR is clogged or the passage is clogged. If you get improper vacuum at the EGR at idle, check the system above the EGR. Check Troubleshooting feature on the code tester.
Sorry
Well done video! Helped me with an issue I was having just by having the vacuum lines recorded! Thanks so much!
Yes this help me alot.and because of these wrong people is why I started working on my own truck.i like my truck and it seems to be fairly easy to work on except for # 8 spark plug it's so hard to get to and it seems to be stuck .seized so it seems to be called.byt you help I failed to connect one of the plugs. Thank you for your video it truly helped
This is absolutely probably the best video I've ever watched on repairing a vehicle you are very knowledgeable and very calmly spoken easy to understand!
The way you talk makes you sound like the UA-cam mechanic Eric the Car Guy. Search for his channel and listen to his videos. I almost thought this was one of those fake channels that steals videos just to get hits to make money, but viewing your other videos showed me this is a legit channel.
I just removed my EGR valve on my 1999 Ford Econoline E-150. I had to size up the nut. I ended up buying a 1 1/6 crescent that fit perfectly. Then I used a 10 mm crescent on the smaller nuts and it pulled loose. However, I do want to note that I also bought some PB Blaster and sprayed it good before I started removing the nut. I let it sit 5 minutes to make sure that it generated through the rust BEFORE I turned it for the first time. Just a little effort. Watch that thumb knuckle! And don't forget to spray down your nuts and screws with PB Blaster and let them sit for a bit before replacing them back into thee hole. You might want to spray down the holes themselves too with PB Blaster.
Good work brother. I know how these mechanic shops are evil lying crooks. That's why I do everything myself. Heres a trick that fixes nearly all of these f150 engines. Take off the throttle body cover and take a metal hammer and tap pn the IAC sensor on the back of the throttle and tap on the EGR valve itself. This loosens the stupid things free usually on these and avoids EGR and throttle cleaning SOMETIMES. And two thirds of these silly test I see done in these videos isn't even necessary. The simple method of unplugging the vacuum connection and attacking vacuum line to the vacuum source and then to the egr as you did in the video end tells you if the egr valve is opening and closing based on the engine surge at idle and engine running smooth at idle without vacuum to the egr which tells its story of I am opening and closing! And the way to text the circuit without any lights or voltage and all this junk do this instead. With engine at operating temperature unplug vacuum at egr and rev engine to 1500 rpm and you should get vacuum at the line that goes to the egr. Then let idle and you should get no vacuum or only a little and then YOU KNOW the circuit is working
Thank You for your thorough, calm and patient explanation.. You rock and yes, I can tell that you definitely are an engineer. I know how to tackle this egr issue now 🌺 Best to you.😊
Excellent content, a couple quick tips, remove both 10 mm bolts holding the egr in, move the egr over and clean both ports with carb cleaner. Also spray both banks (egr tubes connected to exhaust manifold ) also. Make sure all vacuum tuning is in working order, I suggest also removing intake snorkel and cleaning throttle body. Lastly a good fuel cleaner added to a full tank of fuel and steady highway speeds to push out all deposits
I just hosed everything down with mass air flow sensor , (especially the mass air flow sensor) checked air filter and eliminated my problem, the real aggravation is multiple things can throw the same code
Smooth listening sunny 99.1 fm sounding. Airplane pilot voice altitude and wind pressure reading. This dude calmed me down mad at my truck. Thanks for the stress relief.
Great video, thanks. In 2014, you got 3 hours labor and gaskets for $120. In 2022, labor is about $100/hr, so $325-400. Def. worth tackling at home!
This is the most comprehensive breakdown I've found so far. Thank you
You sound like Michael keaton, the REAL Batman.
The real Batman is Ben Afflec
VERY well put together and informative video!
Thank you for taking the time to make it.
I've been battling this error code with my 1999 Mustang GT w/ a 4.6L V8 engine for a while...
Still haven't fixed it yet, but I think this video may lead me to the solution, FINALLY !
Cheers!
I know I’m late to the party but, did you ever fix it? I’m dealing with this now on my 02
We're you guys able to fix them?
My wife's car as described below has the smallest of problems with her 1999 Ford Expedition. When she drives for a while. It looses just a annoying bit of power .. She has to keep the accelerator pressed more and just doesn't have the power it should have.
I have not seen it do it and don't drive it enough. it seems to do it in wet or dry conditions. Going up hills require a little extra acceleration. Sometimes it staightens out. I would think that it wouldn't be a static condition like excess carbon build up...it is intermitent and seems to follow no obvious pattern at all. I am a moreless retired electronic tech. I worked 7 yard for Sears late 80s and 90s. as an electronic tech.. I understand basic digital gates and microprocessor and course transitors. I have been told my DPFE. Is most likely my problem..
I don't throw parts at things unless necessary. The first thing that usually comes up on scans is O2 sensors.. Most of the time it's questionable if they are bad. If you
Kind of point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. Fellow video poster pianostyle100.
.
Mine bogs down when i hit the gas and I've done everything
DPFE sensor?
Nice video..Sounds like Eric the car guy?
One of the best videos and narrations that I have seen to date. Thanks you!
Excellent video and very informative. Although I don't have codes, this provides me more knowledge that was presented well. I am planning to do a full throttle body clean just as my expedition 4.6 is having an slight idle issue but does not stall and I have seen my iac and ports did have carbon. This gave me a good way too to test the egr and vacuums. Thanks for sharing.
Great informative video. I have a 99 Expedition with a p0401 code. After searching on UA-cam, I applied vacuum to the EGR valve and the engine stalled like it should. I then figured that it had clogged passages. I decided to clean them myself. They were dirty but not clogged. After a thorough cleaning along with the throttle body, I reassembled it and cleared the code. It came back on after about 50 miles of driving. I then checked all the vacuum hoses for leaks. I found a couple of small rubber hoses with cracks in them which I replaced. Again I cleared the code. It just came on again tonight. My next test will be the DPFE sensor and the EGR solenoid. I don't think that there is anything else to check. I also don't like to throw parts in without testing first. I enjoy videos such as yours and learn so much from them. Thanks again.
Joseph Costello On a Ford replace the charcoal canister purge valve if it has one. Replace the MAP sensor if you get codes about oxygen sensor running rich.
Thank you very much for sharing your experience and the different options to fix this problem.. Very helpful
Dam dude you explain that egr thing like a pro👍👍👍👍
big D..better then a mechanic lol.
Thank you. That guy had me so frustrated that I told myself that I am going to figure out how this entire system works and how to properly troubleshoot it. It took quite a bit of reading, so I decided that I should share what I learned to save others from going through what I had to.
u video its very helpful, thanks so mucho because watching u idea my truck pass the smog test in the firsth.. please put more videos about mechanic cars, have a good one...
Thanks for the video. I've found it is always helpful to review what videos are available on a vehicle repair project before I really dig into it, as I usually get a better understaning of the physical system, which, as a disbaled DIY vehicle owner (& former Chemical Engineer), usually gives me a good feel for if it is something that I will actually be able to tackle, or if I should just let a more able-bodied chechanic with specialized tools address it. Your system overview & method of attack was very helpful for me. Thank You.
If I don't know any local shops, I typically go to the local Ford Dealer for repairs I can't handle, as at least I know they know how to service their own vehicles, so have never not had the problem fixed. I prefer to find a local shop to work with so as to build a rapport, but that isn't always possible.
Armed with a few videos, vehilce repair manual, a cheap code reader, a quick review of Amazon/OEM parts sites to gauge basic equipment costs, I plan to tackle this one myself, unless I run into a roadblock along the way. My 1998 F-150 5.4L XLT has been a very reliable truck for me - I bought it new in Houston TX, and it now has about 250k miles. I drive it every once in awhile just to keep the fluids circulating; mainly it is used for a spare vehicle & to pick up lawn / garden project supplies. I've maintained it well over the years (a combo of self & professional repairs), so expect to have it until I can no longer drive. A good running truck, though not much for fueld economy (about 15 mpg), but a good worker.
Yes! Great video.. thank you... I just had the same code, and my ports looked just as bad as yours did.. Thanks for the video, helped me a ton.
If it was possible for an academy award for best informative video and super simple explanation of a problem You sir are number one !! BUT I'm in Portugal and the ford rangers here are no were near your systems and my 2002 that has been completely rebuilt by me , will not start, why? no fuel to the injectors through the fuel injection pump (it is a 4 cylinder diesel mazda base ) anyway I just wanted to say I wish there were more guys like you, who can explain things so that us in other countries get real value ! God bless keep it going. Gary from Portugal .
Very Informative. Awesome Thanks......
arent you ERIC THE CAR GUY??
sounds like him
thats what i thought....Im sure He is Eric
This is a great video! I got a 96 Ranger 3.0 2wd It is throwing the code p1445 Purge Control Valve High Output! So like an idiot i start throwing parts at it like new Purge Valve new Thermistor new vent valve for gas tank new vac lines new Charcoal canister new Gas cap! Basically the whole evap system =\
So i decide to take it for a Professional Diagnostics at RadAir complete car care a well know franchise for Auto repair!
I thought good they will find the issue if it's a bad circuit right?
Wrong! After 6 hours i get a call from The manager at RadAir and he tells me it's a vacuum leak between the Theristor and Purge valve easy fix all done!
So i go to pick up my truck from RadAir and Paid $200.00 and walked out to my truck and started it just too see the Check Engine Light pop right on!!
So i walk back in to RadAir and look at the manager and ask why the check engine light is still on??
He walks out with the Mechanic and scan tool and get's the same damn code i just paid him $200 to fix!
So the manager starts pulling Vac lines right there in the parking lot and pulls the DPFE hoses off the egr tube and say,s!
Your EGR tube is blocked replace it and reset your battery for the check engine light to go off! Then just walks away =\
So after 6 hours they could not find or fix the issue with my truck but charged me for it! =\
Got the new EGR tube yesterday will be installing on Monday and if the Check Engine Light don't go off i may be calling action news on RadAir for Fraud!
Thanks Man,, very informative.
My truck has been acting up and I can't put my finger on problem; it stalls as if it's not getting gas, I shut off for a few minutes and then it runs fine, sometimes I have to repeat several times, AutoZone said it's a EGR problem, but I think I solved my problem, the truck was very low in water! I don't have a radiator cap but that degas bottle, it will fool you, so be sure to check the simplest things before you put in shop, because they will fix what's not broken or even worse charge you for fixing problem just to pour water in it, and their labor will be for searching for problem
I watched your video and just took apart the whole system to clean the EGR system first and it was the throttle body, just like yours. Thanks for the info. It was good!!
The guy who just sold me a 1997 F-150 4x4 4.6L, showed me an unconnected connector which he wasn't sure where it goes. But OBDII shows a P0401 code, "egr low"....so I'm wondering whether the disconnected connector is the DPFE SENSOR.....
great video, great voice, awesome approach, great tips, I hope you do more videos.
His voice is so soothing that I'm falling asleep. Good info.
Thanks good info 👍
Hi everyone! Mine is a 5.4 and looks like is a ver y similar problem, how different is the 4.6 to the 5.4 f150! Cause mine is a 02 Harley Davidson could you get me an advice please, because when is cold looks like it has problem to run properly and when is warm runs better I don't know if something is stuck on the houses or the EGR get stuck when cold! Because when it warms I can hear something pops out like something just open and start running properly ! Would you mind to give me an idea or help me out, because I'm stuck here!
Great Video. so my 97 ford f150 4.6 could this be my problem cyz my truck has cranks but no start. I installed a new fuel pump new gas filter new spark plugs and I have fuel pressure and also sprak. Help me please.
I’m having the same problem and have already clean out the egr value port out (carbon build up wasn’t too bad) and also replaced the egr pressure senor. what should Be my next step? I haven’t checked the vacuum yet from the green wire but ima do that tonight l. I’m kinda struck n don’t really wanna pay a lot to get it fixed from a professional mechanic. Someone help🤣
2002 Ford F-150: Does anyone know what the red wire with an L shape rubber fitting that taps off the right side of the intake manifold and also has a yellow wire that’s on the same connector goes to?
This guy is the s*** can we pay him to make more videos LOL but seriously the information is given no better elsewhere if he could only make a video about everything my life would be so simple
Thank you sir for an outstanding video! You should maybe look into producing or filming documentaries..... I've had a similar problem for so long that the check engine bulb burned out. Now that I took out the instrument cluster and replaced the bulb, I am going to check everything you showed us to get this fixed right. God bless you and keep you always for helping us save hundreds of dollars!
Very helpful. My throttle body was my problem too and looked almost identical to the one you showed. It was a bear to clean but not hard to get off. Just a few bolts and sensors. Built my confidence and I appreciate the checklist of other diagnoses. Thanks. FYI others may want 2 cans of throttle body cleaner...
Sir your EGR presentation was outstanding, I got a lot of good info from your video. Do you have any more automotive videos?
Hi Walter, Thank you for the very kind words. I have hours of raw footage. But, because of health issues this year, and the backlog in normal work they caused, I am way behind in producing anything. Hopefully before this year is over I will get some more out.
It's hard to find a honest mechanic. I'm having the same issues, I'm giving this a shot when I get home! Thanks homie!
Does anyone know if a 2004 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl has an EGR valve? I cant find it!
Nice break down. Had the same problem on my 2003 DOHC V-6 Taurus
brilliant....and extremely detailed...
Old shitbox
Wtf is up with the tapping at first I was like yeah that's a good tool he shows us which part but then halfway through the video there is too much tapping
can a bad egr valve cause ur car not to start?
No. It can make car or truck stall while driving i did a engine check test it showed i need a egr sensor,
make sure the two hose are good on the flow sensor, thats all that was wrong with mine simple stuff first
I'm doing mine right now. It was exactly that, clogged EGR ports. Cleared mine out with brake cleaner and a coat hanger.
Great Video
Ended up pulling off the throttle body and my EGR ports were both completely plugged. put everything back together and truck runs perfectly
but of corse the check engine light is still on.
any ideas?
Not sure if the 0401 code should clear automatically when the clog is cleared or if takes a few engines cycles to catch it. Anyway, you need to put a code scanner on it and read the current codes. If it still reports the P0401, use the scanner to clear it. If there is still a problem with the EGR system, the check engine light will come back on within a few miles typically. If you don't have a code scanner, most of the national parts stores chains will scan it for you. Just ask them if they'll clear it too (it's just a command issued by the scanner). If the check engine comes back again, rescan and continue troubleshooting based on reported code(s).
You might want to clean your mass air flow sensor while you're in there. I think I mentioned that in the video.
disconect battery both cable let sit recnect works for my 2000 f-150....
disconnect the battery and then back
12:50 SUCK IT!
No, seriously you don't have to have the motor running unless you want to do the stall test. Just disconnect and put a hose on the vacuum port of the EGR and suck, it doesn't take much vacuum to open them. You'll usually hear the diaphragm flexing or on some EGRs you can stick your finger underneath the dome part through cutouts in the case and feel the diaphragm move. If you have to keep sucking to hold it open then you probably have a leak in the diaphragm.
Another test you can do while this line is disconnected is to blow through the vacuum line back to the solenoid to see if it will hold pressure. If you can feel pressure drop and have to keep blowing or hear air leaking start looking for a cracked hose, hole or the solenoid isn't closed. Disconnect the hose from the solenoid and put your finger over that end and retest to see if it's the line or not. Use soapy water to verify small leaks before buying a new hose if you want.
You can do the same test on the vacuum supply line (the red line in your case) from the intake if you can get to it easily. If all is good reconnect it back on the intake and blow through it. it shouldn't be to hard to do unless the port is plugged up.
Check the rubber on the connectors for dry rot and splitting will you're at it.
Just don't let anyone catch you doing this, they'll start giving you strange looks. :D
Good tip. I've never thought of doing that. It just sounds bad, but hey, if it works, it's great to do before you take it into a shop at $75 an hour because you know they'll drag it out. That's why I look for knowledgeable people who are retired or on disability but can still work on vehicles. I've been pretty lucky. So far I've had 2 guys over the past 12 years who won't charge shop prices to do the work.. Thanks for posting this great tip.
excellent video ,thank you ,very informative , you must be a teacher ?
What can I say? Excellent delivery & extremely detailed information! Thanks for all your time /knowledge, Sir!
I HAVE TO AGREE WITH MOST OTHERS HERE. VERY NICE INFORMATION. I LIKE THIS GUY;))
Bro you are greatness thank you Jesus 🙏
At 6:20 where the red hose suppose to be connected? Thanks
Thanks! Vacuum line unplugged from sensor! :)
Thanks for the information! I have replaced the EGR valve and I’m still throwing the same code - insufficient flow. So now I’ll try the things you showed in the video. When I took the EGR valve off, I did notice a buildup of carbon at the hole where the EGR valve connects. Might have the same problem yours had. I was about to buy a EGR sensor but I’m going to wait before I throw parts at it like I already did. EGR valve might not have been bad 😕
I suspect that more often than not it is the port being clogged, especially at higher mileage, although the buildup occurs slowly over time.
@@Vicos I tried the trick where you put a hose from the vacuum to the EGR valve. It kills the engine each time I do it. So I put a new solenoid on today and I’m STILL getting “insufficient exhaust flow” codes. The only thing left to change is the EGR sensor. Getting frustrated with this.
@@CiscoWes can also be a purge valve
"looking" at balljoints is fruitless......they have to be physically checked...by raising vehical up and allowing tires to be and inch off the ground...the prying up on them while looking at the b joints.....depending on how the weight sits on the bearing...meaning on lower control arm or is the vehical weight resing on the bearing from a strut style suspension like a honda will determine the test method used....tie rod ends can be checked by grabbing a tire from the sides and push/pulling on it to feel for play.
Good at going step by step and easy to understand good job guy !
Thank you very much! this was a very helpful lesson !
another easy way to test this egr system. is by removing the cap on top of the egr vacuum solenoid and covering the vent port with your finger. this will send full vacuum to your egr valve. which at idle should cause your car to run rough and almost stall. this will verify the egr valve works and vacuum is good to the egr vac solenoid. only thing would be to make sure your egr vs is electronically functioning. egr= exhaust gas recirculation
thanks to you good buddy. 👍
thanks to you good buddy. 👍
Cody Wichman
Throttle body carb cleaner would have cleaned those ports out you might as well clean that IAC valve out that's part of the egr valve or air system along with Maf sensor exactly what that chop shop did they charge you a couple hours of labor which took them a half to repair that issue and then hold your car hostage for those extra hrs just to extort you. Carb cleaner would break down that carbon build up in side those port and the egr and the IAC valve
The hardened carbon on those ports was like concrete.
I have a hunch about these throttle bodies and how to clear them as the one you illustrated in the end of your video. After removing the EGR..ILL BET if a person took old style gumout carburetor cleaner and sprayed about 1 teaspoon of that in the egr opening and just let that sat and reinstall the EGR and wait about 4 hours, ILl bet that would clear those two holes in the throttle body. I just used that gmout carb cleaner on a 60 Cadillac 4bbl carb I rebuilt and that stuff dissolves!!!
+Earl Guyton if possible you want to remove deposits as best as possible, and yes carb cleaner helps, soaking it and putting it back on without cleaning will result in massive deposits being sucked into your engine...
I got a totally different evaluation from the diagnostic test at advanced auto, p0302 cylinder 2 misfire & p0316 misfire on startup first 1000 revolutions.
Thank you and I am sorry for your bad experiance
Someone with the knowledge, skill and certifications should start a channel where they go around EXPOSING these SCAM SHOPS as I call them. I'm NO SAE certified mechanic but I've been wrenching on cars for close to 46 years and nothing makes my blood boil more than hearing friends and relatives getting RIPPED OFF. Getting up-sold on stuff that they ABSOLUTELY DON'T NEED or having repairs that were NOT done but they were charged for-albeit at exorbitant rates no less. Yes, i know you can report them, blah, blah, blah but they usually take forever to get around to doing something about it and then it's generally a slap on the wrist-type of reprimand or a letter informing them of a complaint lodged against them. This channel could do a couple of things such as giving two thumbs up to shops that are legit and recommended and outing ones that are SCAMS. Come on, yougsters, who wants to be a You Tube star???
shops are in business to make money. how you spend your money is your responsibility. considering there is a youtube for every problem ever encountered id much rather encourage people to do their research so as not to agree to pay for things that dont need or to spot a bullshitting know nothing mechanic. plus shitty shops are already exposed. just read some google reviews. nowadays you dont get away with ripping very many people off before you get smeared on the internet
5 stars
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION
Yeah, no kidding. But, I'm not going to go back to redo a 5 year-old video to fix a minor misspeak that 99.9% of the people won't feel compelled to comment upon.
Lots of crooked mechanics. Beware!
Did you have any engine pinging before you made this repair?
Excellent Video!!
Thank you. No, never had any pinging on this vehicle.
Subsequently, I did discover that this scam mechanic bent one of the pins on the coil pack he replaced at the same time he worked on the EGR. No. 5 Cylinder was also flooded with water causing the coil pack to fail. Since this guy also replaced all of the water hoses & thermostat at the same time, and the hose inlet is inches away from No. 5, I have to assume he made this mess too. Since repairing the coil packs myself, the truck runs much better. Just a sidenote/update. I think I'll do my own repairs in the future :lol:
Vicos Some bad mechanics out there for sure.
Checked the operation of my EGR on my 98 F-150 4.2 and found it fully operational. Solenoid functioning well, 1 " vacuum at idle (valve closed) and increases as rpm increases, motor stalls with full vac. applied, and hot exhaust running through the valve only when the rpm above 1200. I had read on some forums the EGR could cause pinging (spark knock) under load conditions. Install new camshaft sensor 2 weeks back with no improvement. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Cheers.
Len S I've never had pinging on this vehicle and I'm afraid I can't offer you any suggestion on where to go from here. The only other symptom I experienced was missing under load and this turned out to be the aforementioned issues with the coil packs. Sounds like you've covered the bases with the EGR. Most docs say it is caused by timing issues, bad plugs, fuel mix, engine running too hot... Maybe the other guys said EGR because it is related to fuel mix?
Back in the 70's we would connect the timing light and adjust the distributor......just to easy...lol
+Len S Pining is usually weak spark to plugs or bad plugs. Clean the plugin connectors at your coils and if the plugs are good generally you need to go to a mechanic with the IDS software that can reset the timing in the ECM. The only other thing could be a dirty air filter making it run too rich
Thanks, my 2003 F-150 decided to throw a P0401 so been looking at videos to fix the problem. Inspection due this month so the misfit problems always seem to find the inspection month. Will do this myself.
Vicos, the EGR shown toward the end of the video must be after it was cleaned. So the issue was the EGR valve and not the DPFE sensor or EGR solenoid? My first car (Age 16) was a '69 Chevelle back in 1976. The EGR tube was completely clogged. So I took it off and used a flex wire tubing from a $1 pick up tool and put it on the end of a drill and ran it down the tube and cleaned all of the black carbon build-up out.
Great information....... thanks
I’m having this same problem with my 99 f150 super duty. Get codes and all. Seeing you do the vacuum test with the solenoid hoses to the EGR valve made me wonder if it were to completely stall maybe that’s an indication that the throttle body adapter is full of carbon and has strict flow.
Edit finished watching the video and that’s really what it was. Nice job I got work to do!!
Thx for this it was very informative. I've been dealing with this problem on my '98 f-150 since I bought it. Each year finding a way to keep that check engine light off long enough for inspection only for it to come back on my way back home. That's the funny thing is overall my truck runs great except for an occasional dip or surge in idle when I am stopped at lights and such. Well it's inspection time again and your help in narrowing down this problem is greatly appreciated...new insight for sure. I only wish my channel had something informative for you but if you got time to kill and are looking for a laugh by all means check it out.
If you have improper vacuum to the EGR, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. Try fuel injector cleaner to clean parts. Get. Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, transmission codes, oxygen sensor test, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It has code-connect to diagnose codes. The screen is large and well-lit! Get the USB cable to update it. EBAY has it. It includes cables for OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. The CP9680 is for OBDII only. EGR stands for EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION VALVE. There shouldn't be vacuum at idle at the EGR but at 1500 up and should drop when idling the engine.
Can egr valve cause a overheat
+Marky David No
Thanks man!
hum egr almost looks exactly like a fuel pressure regulator maybe the only way to distinigsh it is which one is connected to fuel rails or fuel flows thru from exhaust gas /fuel vapor flowing thru
Thank you EGR=Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Yep, just wasn't worth the time to go back and correct the video.
Thank you for the video and explaining everything .I’ve been dealing with issues in my 03 mustang gt and my throttle body was clogged as well .perfect video thank you again
I was driving down the road and the truck popped felt like a flattire but it was not.the engine light service light came on 3days ago .tell me whats wrong
Hi Ray, If you have a check engine light, there should be one or more codes stored on the computer which will give you clues as to what the problem is. Get the codes, then search YT for the code and your year/make/model. If you don't have a code scanner, and it drivable, most of the national parts stores will scan it for free.
This is is one of the best postings I've seen in years. Couple of things. I know it's not related but when the car doesn't idle right in the morning.. IA C probably needs to be cleaned. Idle Air Control. Watch for little falling screws.
Next I have a video where I took my EGR valve out and either cleaned or replaced it. I have a Eddie Bower 1999 4.6 liter Ford Expedition.. basically and F150.
Taking the EGR out is best done with a mechanic or knowledgeable friend. Pretty much your accessories on top of the engine will be off. Intake manifold etc. It's probably clogged with carbon.
I was a newbie at this experience.
Also have the tools you can plus things like extenable small mirror and magnetic pickup tool. Murphies law and coralaries.
I was getting a 332 code on my Ranger. I removed the EGR valve and shoved a coat hanger in there. Apparently, there was a block of carbon in there. I managed to push it through and after some rough idle and clink clunk, it was chewed up by the engine. After that, the check engine light did not come back on.
97 f150 4.6. This was exactly the problem!!! Thank you so much. You are the giant baby in a sky of squid. Keep on pulling on it.
Excellent video, question, I have a P1450 code and I can hear that my fuel pump is noise, when I remove the gas cap it runs great I feel like I have a lot of pressure in the gas tank, any idea what that could be?
Thank you for delivering a very informative video. I also have a 2002 Ford F150 with this same exact code. I feel better about tackling the problem now.
Again, thank you.
Are you Mre3000?
Thank you for that detailed explanation, was trying to figure out on how it all works (Vaccuum), and it all makes sense now. Mine issue was the same, running perfectly now. Keep up the good work.
I have a 2001 F150 4.6 and had the P0401 code and would not pass smog. Just did exactly per this video and found exactly the same problem, clogged egr ports. Took my truck to smog station after cleaning out carbon and passed test. Thanks to Vicos for your excellent video.
Excellent vid! I have been struggling with fixing my p0401 code on my 97 f150. I had the throttle body ports cleaned and replaced the DPFE. I am going to check the vacuum on the EGR next, and maybe replace the dpfe again because my mechanic said it might have been a defective part (and It came with a lifetime warranty so it should be free to get a new one). ANY wisdom would be much appreciated! Thanks!
+TheBladeSickness Don't replace that dpfe again. Ill tell you how to know if it is working (BTW, your mechanic is not a mechanic or he would know this too) Start engine and get to operating temperature. Then have someone rev the engine to 1500 rpm, then unplug the vacuum hose from the EGR and it should have vacuum, then let it idle and there should be no vacuum. ITS THAT SIMPLE
I found a flexible drill bit tool called "The Snake-Bit" online for about $30.00. It comes in sizes 12"-21" long and you insert it into your clogged EGR passages to clean out the ports. I will be attempting to clear my low-flow EGR codes this afternoon, it looks like this is the only tool that will best clean out those passages.
Thanks for the video. I have that code on my 2002 Ford Ranger. Auto Zone says the EGR flow sensor needs replacement. I pulled it off and both hoses have plenty of flow. But I wanted to troubleshoot the system before buying the $30 part. Great video. Thanks