I really enjoyed seeing you go thru the process of figuring out what works and what doesnt. So many other fabricators like to pretend they just got it right.. Keep up the good work.
Sliders and boat sides! Ox lockers are awesome! I’ve seen them ran by close friends on the 60s and beat close to death and they hold up great! Motive gears are a solid choice we’ve used all the brands depending on price and you can’t tell in the quality difference. When you do rehear check out the crush sleeve eliminators for the 10.25 and the 10.50. Being about a 30 dollar investment really save you in time.
I totally can’t wait to build some boatsides for this so I think I might go ahead and do that first! Sweet good to hear about the ox locker, seems like a great option to give a shot💪🏽 I’ve used a crush sleeve eliminator for my red Cherokee’s 8.8. Deff makes setup wayyy easier. Will for sure be picking one up for this sterling!
Measure from your balljoint to the center of your steering heim, that’s the length of pitman arm you will need, a stock WJ arm worked perfect for my xj
If you can you should think about making a brace for your track bar bracket that runs under the motor to the other frame rail. I think that's a must on my xj builds. I also have frame stiffeners and I do extra stiffening further than the regular ones people do but even with all that and gusseting I still think that a brace from the track bar bracket to the other frame rail is important and it also give you some more strength and rigidity for the front of the unibody frame. I also run a steering box brace from ironman4x4fab up front and I plated that front frame crossmember as well. I've seen that front crossmember twist and crack I'm talking about the piece under the radiator the very front crossmember of the unibody I've seen that twist and crack under off-road use and those front unibody rails move independently a little bit on a worn out body especially so tying it all together helps like with a track bar brace and a stiff bumper etc.. it all helps. I thought I'd come back and also add that if your keeping rear leaf springs its a good idea to beef up the mounts the rear mount should be welded on qnd gusseted better or even replaced entirely but i usually beef up the stock one. Then the front mount can be beefed up in a few ways. I like the ironman4x4fab front leaf mount ran with a leaf relocation kit in the rear that drops the mount down and gives you lots of adjustments. But anywho I thought I'd just add that. I haven't seen a front Mount come off completely but i have seen rear mounts come off, the box is just spot welded on.
Thanks for all the insight! I was actually thinking about adding some gussets to this frame side mount after looking at it for awhile. I also think before I hit the trails I’ll be making a brace the goes from it to the passenger side unibody. I think next time I have this front bumper off I’ll make a big stiffener to weld over that front crossmember….deff need this thing to be as rigid as possible. I do have shackle relocation brackets in the rear but still have the stock forward mount for those leafs. I’ll have to look into something a bit stronger for those…or possibly plate them.
Thank you for documenting this build. I have a few questions man. How do you afford this stuff? You should do a little video on who you are what you do and how are you core able to make this possible.
Funny you bring this up, next weeks video I’m going to be going in depth on all the money I’ve put into the Jeep so far during this one ton swap… you’d be surprised it hasent been too much up until this point but that is going to change quick…. As for what I do…Diesel Mechanic by day, Off-road Enthusiast at all other hours of my life…maybe I’ll do a Q/A one of these days if enough viewers were interested.
@backcountrybeagles From what I've seen, it's lots of work. Weird uncomfortable positions to weld in. I've got a complete set but need to practice first. I'll probably end up blowing holes through the thin unibody frame than welding the stiffener. Looking forward to that episode.
I've been very interested in boatsides recently. I would love seeing you do the boatsides. Would you be trimming the bottoms of the doors? I want to try making 2x6 sliders, trimming the bottoms of the doors with some boatsides on my $300 jeep
Probably not, only because I’m not sure it would look all that great with the Notch Custom Fender Flares. Im thinking of leaving the rockers in place and put a 2x6 under it with some DOM work…but I’m going to put more thought into it once the time comes. Would like to cut out the rocker to shove the 2x6 up higher if possible.
Good for the price. No complaints, had it for a long time now, cut a lot of metal with it and haven't had any issues. Haven't even changed the blade yet.
How I’ve done in the past is a 2x6 in place of the rocker and a boat-side coming off of that and to the unibody. Thinking about something along those lines for this.
Yeah….thats kinda why I wanna do sliders/boatsides first. When I get to my gears install video it will by no means be a “how to” ….about 1000 other people already beat me to that.
I really enjoyed seeing you go thru the process of figuring out what works and what doesnt. So many other fabricators like to pretend they just got it right.. Keep up the good work.
Appreciate it, I by no means know everything, gotta learn along the way!
Sliders and boat sides! Ox lockers are awesome! I’ve seen them ran by close friends on the 60s and beat close to death and they hold up great! Motive gears are a solid choice we’ve used all the brands depending on price and you can’t tell in the quality difference. When you do rehear check out the crush sleeve eliminators for the 10.25 and the 10.50. Being about a 30 dollar investment really save you in time.
I totally can’t wait to build some boatsides for this so I think I might go ahead and do that first!
Sweet good to hear about the ox locker, seems like a great option to give a shot💪🏽 I’ve used a crush sleeve eliminator for my red Cherokee’s 8.8. Deff makes setup wayyy easier. Will for sure be picking one up for this sterling!
Measure from your balljoint to the center of your steering heim, that’s the length of pitman arm you will need, a stock WJ arm worked perfect for my xj
Boat sides and love the videos
Appreciate it!
If you can you should think about making a brace for your track bar bracket that runs under the motor to the other frame rail. I think that's a must on my xj builds. I also have frame stiffeners and I do extra stiffening further than the regular ones people do but even with all that and gusseting I still think that a brace from the track bar bracket to the other frame rail is important and it also give you some more strength and rigidity for the front of the unibody frame. I also run a steering box brace from ironman4x4fab up front and I plated that front frame crossmember as well. I've seen that front crossmember twist and crack I'm talking about the piece under the radiator the very front crossmember of the unibody I've seen that twist and crack under off-road use and those front unibody rails move independently a little bit on a worn out body especially so tying it all together helps like with a track bar brace and a stiff bumper etc.. it all helps.
I thought I'd come back and also add that if your keeping rear leaf springs its a good idea to beef up the mounts the rear mount should be welded on qnd gusseted better or even replaced entirely but i usually beef up the stock one. Then the front mount can be beefed up in a few ways. I like the ironman4x4fab front leaf mount ran with a leaf relocation kit in the rear that drops the mount down and gives you lots of adjustments. But anywho I thought I'd just add that. I haven't seen a front Mount come off completely but i have seen rear mounts come off, the box is just spot welded on.
Thanks for all the insight!
I was actually thinking about adding some gussets to this frame side mount after looking at it for awhile. I also think before I hit the trails I’ll be making a brace the goes from it to the passenger side unibody.
I think next time I have this front bumper off I’ll make a big stiffener to weld over that front crossmember….deff need this thing to be as rigid as possible.
I do have shackle relocation brackets in the rear but still have the stock forward mount for those leafs. I’ll have to look into something a bit stronger for those…or possibly plate them.
Thank you for documenting this build. I have a few questions man. How do you afford this stuff? You should do a little video on who you are what you do and how are you core able to make this possible.
Funny you bring this up, next weeks video I’m going to be going in depth on all the money I’ve put into the Jeep so far during this one ton swap… you’d be surprised it hasent been too much up until this point but that is going to change quick….
As for what I do…Diesel Mechanic by day, Off-road Enthusiast at all other hours of my life…maybe I’ll do a Q/A one of these days if enough viewers were interested.
Yes we want to see that build as well!
Boat sides ❤
Lockers and gears
Sliders would be great.
Hoping to get to them here soon!
@backcountrybeagles From what I've seen, it's lots of work. Weird uncomfortable positions to weld in.
I've got a complete set but need to practice first. I'll probably end up blowing holes through the thin unibody frame than welding the stiffener.
Looking forward to that episode.
Where is the olyneville inside the one tons?
😭
I've been very interested in boatsides recently. I would love seeing you do the boatsides. Would you be trimming the bottoms of the doors? I want to try making 2x6 sliders, trimming the bottoms of the doors with some boatsides on my $300 jeep
Probably not, only because I’m not sure it would look all that great with the Notch Custom Fender Flares. Im thinking of leaving the rockers in place and put a 2x6 under it with some DOM work…but I’m going to put more thought into it once the time comes.
Would like to cut out the rocker to shove the 2x6 up higher if possible.
How is the Hercules chop saw? Good for the price?.. Or should have gone Evolution?
Good for the price. No complaints, had it for a long time now, cut a lot of metal with it and haven't had any issues. Haven't even changed the blade yet.
If you build the boat sides right, you shouldn't need sliders, unless its a kick out bar.
How I’ve done in the past is a 2x6 in place of the rocker and a boat-side coming off of that and to the unibody. Thinking about something along those lines for this.
What gearing are you going with? With 40s and tons are you going to boost the 4.0 or do a swap?
5.38s. Unsure what brand as of right now. Plan to do an engine swap once I’m done with the one to swap.
SLIDERS!!!
Sliders and boat sides. As you know the gears and lockers videos have been done soooo many times.
Yeah….thats kinda why I wanna do sliders/boatsides first. When I get to my gears install video it will by no means be a “how to” ….about 1000 other people already beat me to that.