Why I Always Use a Long Bar on My Chainsaw. Am I Compensating?
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- Опубліковано 18 лют 2023
- #chainsaw #logging #stihl #tools #forestry #forest #firewood #woodmizer #saw #wood #woodworking
The reason why I prefer a long bar vs a short bar on my chainsaws. I am using a Stihl MS 462 with a 32 inch bar. I am cutting a Douglas fir for my Woodmizer LT15 sawmill and cutting the top into firewood. - Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
Heres a tip: with a 96 inch bar you can set on the stump and sip tea whole you're limbing.
“Stand up and buck” and “get the gullet” changed my whole cutting game. Thank you Buckin Billy Ray!
What’s get the gullet mean
@@AnxiousCowboy It's referring to chain sharpening, get in the "Gullet" not just make the tip or top of the tooth sharp
It's called "Stand Up And Buck"! So says Buckin' Billy Ray.
Absolutely, I couldn't agree more. To me, this is common sense that helps keep the chiropractor away
I had back surgery back un 2010 and 3 fusions and 1 disc replaced. I love tree work and chainsaws in general and always have and I do the same as you bud. I find that with a lightweight bar and skip chain that my saws barely lose any power at all. I agree with you pa, keep grinding!👍👍
Meanwhile in centeal europe we use mostly 50 ccm saws for this kind of work and diameters (MS 261 and 550) with 40 cm (16") bars. A 45 cm (18") is considered long for these as it costs power.
Only for felling a 70 cc or bigger (440, 441, 500i, 572 Husky or at max. a 661) is typically used. Mostly spruce trees (Fichte) here.
This is pretty good advice actually. The bar I use is long enough to reach pretty much everything from my couch.
Hey if it works for you, keep doing it. I think it makes sense.
Thanks for sharing…
That’s what it’s all about, people finding whatever works for them. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That's smart, as a 55 year old I'm going to get me a longer saw because as we all know with age you become less able and this will help my back, shoulders and safety ! Thanks man I just got an eye opener !
I'm 5'5 and when I run a 24 on my 039. I can cut standing upright. Being a short fella a 20 is just a little to short lol I concur on your message.
A 24 is a good length for a lot of things. If I was a few inches shorter, that would be my go to bar too. I can imagine it would be perfect for your height.
If I’m breaking down a top like my recent oak vids and I have to really lift or climb I like my 346xp XS, but extending and bending gets hard on the lower back. Once things get waist high or lower I like 28-32”. The trick with the long bar and cutting small stuff is I like the chain aggressive and full comp so it’s quick, doesn’t need feed pressure, and keeps the saw from 4 stroking…but then those chains don’t work so well for felling with that bar buried. OCD Perfectionism…
Finally someone gets it
Dancing the fine line between ruining your shoulders or ruinng your back lol i just pack 2 saws with me, if I'm limbing stuff thats thigh to shoulder height i use a 562xp with a 24 inch light bar. Everything else (falling, ground work, bucking) 28-32" light bar on either a 572 or 592
Newer high power light weight saws plus light weight bars...all making this that much easier to do. I like my Makita 7900 and a 28" or 32" but I handled a 500i yesterday. Very nice!
Mine 500i has about 10 to 12 tanks.so it's newe er to .even though I bought it last year I waited to use it because 462 is my first choice most days and have 268 xp ported .
Used 32 on shot crew…. Up right and moving…. Wish light bar was available during 2002😂
So true. I tell young guys i work with that we're gifted with a lot more "bend-overs' than "get-back-ups" in life.
It is a great bar length . Spent many hours and days with a 32” bar on my ms462 and 661 .
It took me 50ty years and to many car and motorcycle wrecks to learn this. 👍
gr8 tips thanks
I’m only 6’ tall and 29 years old and I run a 36” for the very same reasons.
Same reason I got me a 60” can’t hook.
Leverage and comfort, baby! That’s what I’m talking about.
“Added benefit” The extra weight of the longer bar lets gravity cut the log.
Nice jacket.
Hellllz Yeah brother! Well said playboy!
Makes sense!
You may need a bigger oilpump to keep that long bar from wearing or overheating.
Nice jacket
Thank you, I do the same thing. Bad spine.
Pretty smart fella
No matter what I’m cutting I never use anything shorter than a 20” bar.
Get an MS170 with 16” bar for $180. Trust me, it changes everything. New chains are $6 a piece online and it’s so light yet powerful for its size. I own a tree service and use it more than any of my big saws. And it sips gasoline. I own 3 of them.
@@cliffordmontana4562 I have an MS170 and an 029 and they both need rebuilt.
We all have preferences. I like to use a 20in bar on a lighter 60 ish cc saw for bucking. I'm only 5'8 so the long bars feel kinda awkward for me
Yep it all comes down to preference. Knowing what works well for you.
0 11am
I ran a 36inch bar on my Husqvarna 2100 (99cc) when I was falling cedars 3-4ft. at the base in 1977. 😳I run a 32in. just for firewood now. And I run 40/1 mix.💨That’s why it has lasted so long.
You know you’re dealing with a real logger when his short bar is a 32 inch that he uses for firewood. 👍
Great, saving your back is the most important thing to do ❤
And destroying your shoulders and arms. Not saying the guy is wrong, but you’re just trading fatigue in one area for fatigue in another.
yes sir right on
Agreed 👍
My gut reaction is to say that the extra weight of the bar yada yada yada but man has a point bars have gotten lighter saws are very well balanced and bad posture kills you over the course of 8 hours
I have blown, dedicated, lumbar discs.
Just 2" makes all the difference when limbing.
-Ben Dover.
Limbing is where I really appreciate the long bar.
-Stan Dupright
Nice
I'm thinking my 455 ,rancher , would bog down with a longer bar ?
@@MrSprintcat It'll run a 24" bar just fine.
In finland we use 13" bar because trees are mainly small pulpwood that we cut and delimb. There is a certain techniques and also snow in a winter time to compensate. You get used to also working with a shorter bar. Its much quicker when you delimb smaller wood or bigger too especially spruce that has a lot of small diameter branches. Saw is also lighter often MS 200s when cutting pulpwood size trees or 50cc to 40cc saws. Guess that's somewhat under 5" diameter max trees.
But I understand your point.
Good comment. A lot of it probably depends on what we get used to. Out here we have trees large enough that we need the long bars. someone else was talking about the advantage of small electric chainsaws. They made a good point too.
@@WilsonForestLands arborist here also prefer to use long bars when bucking big trees for customers so they can do it standing with straight back. I think its because saws that have long bars are also much heavier.
@@jussikolehmainen6310 i'm an arborist in sweden and my "big" saw is a 462 with a 20" bar. 😅
I've considered getting a longer bar and chain to put on for that one or two big trees i cut per year, but really, so far i haven't encountered a tree i couldn't cut with the 20" going from both sides. And most of my work is done with a 261 on the ground, though i am eyeing the new battery saws as they're really nice to work with, and I spend far more time climbing than cutting so battery life isn't a major issue like it would be in forestry where you spend a lot more time actively cutting.
Im getting one.
I can pack firewood all day long, but 30 minutes of being bent over working at ground level and I'm done.
After taking down a moose one time, my buddy jokingly said," if I cut it up will you pack it out?"
I jumped at the opportunity and surprised him. Standing up packing out a moose beats being hunched over for two hours. I saved my back, and I packed that moose through the bush to the boat.
I think we might be at opposite ends of the spectrum. Normally l run a 15”. Go ahead call me crazy everyone else does and they might be right. I like the short bar for the delimbing speed and fast movements. When it comes to blocking firewood a longer bar is nice but l don’t do much of that. Am l compensating for something? Yes, I’m old, weak and most assuredly not manly.
I enjoy your videos.
Thanks Russell. A lot of it probably comes down to what we are used to. Getting old and weak seems to happen to even the manliest of men. I probably won’t be able to handle a 32” forever.
I prefer to delimb with my 28” rather than the 12”. I can do more from one spot, instead of positioning for each limb. It’s faster. Plus, even the bigger bar will fit into more places than the small saw will.
I guess you wouldn’t need any more oil in the oiler because the bar chain is still spinning at the same speed and coming aroundlees times because of a longer circumference so I think it comes to the same thing
I learned to make a bed to fell trees on it, this save both my back and shoulders. It s not really hard to do, you take a strong enough tree to withstand the one you want to fell, cross it at a certain distance or use available wood piles or even a rock, got to watch out about your chain hitting the rock if you do so. Yeah, it s a little longer to set up but so satisfying when you do it right. Of course, the biggest tree I ever fell was 120 feet long about 20 inches diameter, so this might not apply t the west side of the continent haha.
I do concur😁
Hello what’s your opinion on that 32 inch bar on a stihl 460mag ? Med to light duty I use my 066 for big stuff thanks
460 is more or less the same as the 462 just an older version. Should pull it ok.
28” on xs440 is my go to.
I have a 28 inch I used to use sometimes. It is a good length too.
See I don’t have this problem cuz I’m wicked short 😎 in all seriousness tho, I do the same basically. I have 20 inch bar as my small light saw for crane picks mostly but I do go for the 24” because for me that’s a good length to stand up straight. I like the 32 also I just think I probably go for the 24 cuz it’s the lightest saw where I can achieve that posture ground distance.
As you get older, you learn to save those bendovers any way you can.
I hear we get a limited number of bendovers.
@@WilsonForestLands well fk, that’s knews to me
What size saw you got there?
Some guys use a pole saw for taking off the light branches
why is my bar only 4.5 inches?
Until you have to sharpen it😅
I'm 6'5" I use a 41" bar, lol
Cap
They don't make a 41 inch bar.
Would love if someone replys to this. Would a long bar like this be best for removing down trees in water. I have a lot of trees in a river i fish that are sitting submerged just barely below the surface of the water.
My goto is 21 inch bar on my 880, everybody is different.
Is 20 inch bar for my ms 290 Okay? Will I loose much power? I'm tall and don't have a great back
I am not experienced with a 290 so I wouldn’t know.
That's why I do
Same here, I can't work with short bars, since I tried 28/32 is my go to bar, even I'm 5,6 and yes I'm compensating something too...🤣
😂 we probably all have something we are compensating for.
The biggest reasons to use a32” or 36” bar you don’t mess your back up your not bending over your smart not dumb no as for me I use a 661 wit a 32” bottom line work smart not hard!😊👍👍👍😎
you pull out my joke here with compensating. I filmed Stihl 044 with 30" today. It's too heavy and uncomfy. I rather use husq 435 with 13"
The longer bar puts more weight farther out and more strain on your lower back. It's also easier to knock your chain off, more teeth to file, and robs more power from the head. A long bar is slower to move around and with todays smaller wood you spend a lot of time limbing, it's faster with a shorter bar. I'm 63, 6foot 2 and my back is shot, so I do what I can to minimize back pain. I prefer 24 -28 inch bars but I don't bend my back, I bend my knees.
I think my knees would get tired of bending. I like a 24 inch bar for a lot of things but with these new light bars, I find I am faster with the 32.
Ya but, I got a ya but, while I get firewood here in Oregon I find it responsible to bring a couple saws so as you can get your self out of a pinch. One big dog and the little saw for limber
@@bangbanglulu4604 Yeah, I have a tree service in Washington. I always have 3 or 4 saws with me. I prefer limbing with a smaller saw. I always have a backup.
@@bangbanglulu4604 Yes multiple saws are a great tip. Having another saw handy has got me out of a bind many times.
After limbing is done, I do a large amount of my bucking on my knees.
"am I compensating for something ?" "yes I am !" 😎
I think all of us have at least something we are compensating for.
The disadvantage is that you are more likely to throw a chain while limbing and if you hit a foreign object, there’s more teeth to sharpen.
I use a 5'4" El Salvadoran for this type of sawing.
Takes more horsepower to spin chain, heavier. Like the upright thing though
if you manage to get a kickback the long bar is way more safe aswell :thumbsup:
Agreed.
That 20 inch bar is perfect for me, I’m 4 feet tall homes 😂
I'm 7 feet and still compensating:-)
Ok how can I figure out the length im capable of using if the saw is .325 x .5 like how do you factor the number of drives off of a 7 tooth sprocket?
Got me thinking about getting a longer bar. If you put a skip tooth does it end up being about the same amount of teeth and rakers to file?
Skip tooth is all I ever run so I couldn’t give you a good answer on that. But I would think you are thinking in the right direction there. Probably somewhere close.
yeah you said LIGHT BAR, try a solid BAR. I run a 36" on my 590 & I'm looking for a light bar.
This coming from a real pro
Bonjour 👋 de la France 🇫🇷 c’est quoi comme modèle de tronçonneuse et quelle taille du guide ? Moi j’ai une MS 440 je voudrais mettre une guide de 63 peut on le mettre sans fatiguer le moteur ? Merci 😎
The only catch is that the chainsaw will be heavier especially for a short person like me if you're short like me that is about just 5'2 then it is best convenient to use a chain bar with a 18 inch bar
That is a good point. your height will make a difference.
For that reason sure but you always need diffrent sizes and depending on the situation using a lighter smaller saw will definitely make up for the any extra effort . You only need a saw around 40 ccs to cut small brances and buck up some small wood
Smaller saws do have their place for certain situations. But logging in the Pacific Northwest we have a situation where just running the big saw are the industry standard four our situation.
Glad I'm not the only one who does this
Will someone start with a 50 to 60 cc saw, put a 32 inch bar on it with the smallest profile chain you can get to work with the proper sprocket.
I totally get stand up and buck, but who wants or needs HEAVY 8 hp saw to cut tree limbs.
I do when the base of the tree I am cutting the limbs off of was 32 inches diameter. The new high horsepower saws and light bars are pretty light these days.
1500$ saw, picked one up recently, its a beast
more chain= less dulling of chain = sharper chain, less sharpening chain time! 👍
Lol what about the idea that you spend 3x the time to sharpen 1 32" chain vs a 20"? lol just feel like theres a little flaw to your logic
my saw ain't got enough power for that
I like the long bar too. Good video. Take care 👍
Thanks, you seem like a long bar kind of guy.
Makes sense..how tall and how long are your arms? Thx
A little over 6 with my boots on. I have never measured my arms and don’t have a tape measure handy, but I think they are proportional.
Must take 3 files to sharpen that thing!
Only one file and I can get many filings out of that one file. And longer bars usually stay sharper longer. With more teeth each tooth doesn’t have to work as hard. Don’t have to file as often.
won't get caught in a kickback either
Damn easier on the old back
The only issue with a Stihl 32 Light bar is that they have been on back order for 2 3 years. So you cant just pick on up at your local dealer. I know Ive asked every Stihl dealer in NH for the last 2 3 years every time Im in the area.
PS STIHL is a Dealer only product. Dealers will NOT ship Stihl parts or saws from MY experience. Thats why you dont see Stihl saws for sale on line..
Another side note. Up here in the north east Nobody has long bars longer then 24. And nobody has full wrap handles. When I ordered my 462 I had the version with a Full Wrap and the guy looked at me like I was crazy. Then I asked for a 28 inch or 32 inch Light bar and he said we only have up to a 28. I was bucking up a 38 40 inch maple its nice to have a bigger bar. and making face cuts in bigger trees a longer bar works great. He just looked at me like I was from mars. ODD how east coast folks think. Im from the east coast...
When I bought this saw, it was the only pro saw they had in our local saw shop. That was a couple years ago in the peak of all the shortages. I am guessing they still had this saw because I didn’t have the full wrap or the big dogs that the West Coast guys want. The 462 out here on the dealer shelf come with the full wrap. But on this one I had to order those and install them. They have the long light bars in stock here. Maybe the regional distributors out here have them all because out here they are the standard. Yeah it’s funny the difference between east and west coast. A lot of East Coast guys watching my videos think I’m crazy for using such a long bar.
@@LiveFreeOrRIP You're going to the wrong shops. For example New England Pine Timber Co on the MA/CT border has 28, 32", 36" 48" 6 foot bars, etc in stock hanging on the walls by the dozens from multiple manufacturers like Sugihara, Tsumura, Husky, Cannon, etc. If they don't have it they can get it. The new Tsumura Premium Light bars are lighter than the Stihl Light bars.
from Lacoina my GPS says 3hr 40 minutes one way. Im not driving 8 hours to buy a chainsaw bar..@@afellowinnewengland6142
Funny how you refer to 24” bars as short. For me that’s a borderline long bar. Then again, I’m just a lowly firewood guy who gets by just fine using an 18” bar 95% of the time 😎
To your original point though, standing up to buck makes a LOT of sense.
Safety glasses?
Why he uses Long bar big Saul is so every day he don't have to break his back leaning down so he can log-in till is 90
Can you tell me the what the advantage is of sticking your "long bar" in the dirt?
I don’t know any advantage, that’s why I don’t do it.
@@WilsonForestLands 😂 it sure looked like you did In the video. I can't believe how many super logger videos I see where the guy stands his saw up by sticking the bar in the dirt. Can't figured out why they do it
@@mightamin It was in woody debris and thick duff, not dirt. When I stand it up like that I always look for something like that to avoid dirt. When standing there talking on camera with a saw it's a more comfortable position. I am guessing that is the case with most of them. I can't imagine them actually doing it in dirt. But who knows, people do a lot of things.
@@WilsonForestLands Some do put their bar tip in the dirt, I’ve seen it in person and in pictures and videos.
Long Bars saves lives😂
That sounds like a great campaign slogan.
And getting old don't help anything!
I am not sure what will be better then. A smaller saw for lighter weight or the longer saw for not bending over.
Working mans speech for "im lazy b>/%# thats why" lol
Well, I'm not sure what else you can compensate for.
Someone else in another video suggested I might be compensating, that was the only thing I could come up with too.
LMAO this is too much, people are going to watch this and think you're not joking. I've been a professional arborist for over a decade folks, you always use the smallest saw within reason. Some exclusions apply, such as switching from a climbing saw to a big saw, rather than pulling and lowering a medium saw for a couple cuts you could make with the large one. And on the ground you should not use your small top handle saw.
To exemplify my point, chainsaws are designed to make cuts with those spikes at the base of the bar. The further out you make your cut, the less balanced the chain is. So the chain grinds against the inside of the bar and spurs the metal. The more damage it does to the bar, the less grab it gets on the cut. Therefore less power on the cut and damage to everything.
You are going to have to argue that with almost every logger in the Pacific Northwest who does it the way I do. Most of them do almost all of their cutting including limbing with at least a 32 inch bar. For your argument to stick, you are going to have to make your argument to an entire industry. When someone says the words “you always” I usually stop paying attention. Not everyone does things the same way you do. I don’t know what it is about so many arborists who think their way is the only way. We do things our way for different reasons than you do things your way.
@@WilsonForestLands you do you man. Maybe pop off those bumper spikes if you're not using them. It might reduce some weight of your ridiculously oversized saw.
Why would I do that? They come in very useful when falling timber and cutting larger logs.
@@DaveZaniboni I prefer to delimb with my 28” rather than the 12”. I can do more from one spot, instead of positioning for each limb. It’s faster. Plus, even the bigger bar will fit into more places than the small saw will. And the small saw cuts a lot slower through the limbs.
28 on 500i for me
I haven’t tried the 500i but I hear good things. Sounds like a great combination.
im 6" and I use at least a 24" for bucking, but I often use a 16" on a 50cc class saw for felling smaller stuff
Nice try. BBR put this out month ago. Glad you watch his channel as well.
You may want to take another page out of his book and loose those chaps. And get a pair of saw pants. 4 layers of cut resistant pad in front and 2 in the back.
So your legs are protected when the chain rolls those old school chaps out of the way.
I learned it from my dad and the other loggers I grew up around. I started on a 24 inch bar when I was 14, eventually decided I like 32 when they came out with the long bars. BBR is not the only person in the world who uses long bars.
Waste of energy I love short fast style I just can saw all day I'm always active so screw long bars annoying peave filing and sharpening extra weight I'd rather use a practical length than excessive length. Then again people have preference just don't convince me otherwise.
I find moving the weight of my body up and down to bend over or squat down to reach takes more energy than moving around the small amount of extra weight in a few extra inches of the new light bars.
@@WilsonForestLands I was annoyed because my cousin would convince me otherwise here I'm always on the move with saws I use long bars when the job calls for it but usually avoid it if it's not necessary. Excuse my ignorance but he uses 60cc size with 28 I'm like why lol 😂. They have a happy spot 24 and less enjoy your day sir.
The longer the better, cause I don’t like moving around too much
Exactly! Sometimes it’s very difficult to get close enough to each limb to use a small saw.
All respect you could do that with a 25 inch bar you got long arms you just want the way to the sal to do all the work and that's cool and everything just tell the truth though all respect
Most of my years running a saw I used a 25. Since the light bars came out, I gravitate toward the 32. For my situation the 32 works better for me.
Bet it sucks fuel like a dirtbike though
Hey... don't use it at all..when you need wood or fire wood,just buy it from your neighbour...best compensation ever..😂