Cut it, don't pull it apart! If you pull it, it will stretch. Then it will be too thin, so when you torque the bearing cap down, it will look like the clearances are more than they really are.
First thing I saw! Guy does not know what he is doing. Griddle instead of girdle! Does not apply any silicone to one side and he handles the whole package of Plastigage when measuring, which will stretch it or break it. You are supposed to cut off one section of the sleeve package to measure with!
Also, make sure you measure each journal. The reason you do this is because there is always a chance that one of the new bearings is the wrong size or the journal was machined incorrectly.
First thing I see is you stretching the Plastigage by tearing off a piece! I don't think you understand that it is supplied in an exact diameter for a reason. Griddle instead of girdle? You don't apply any silicone to one side and you handle the whole package of Plastigage when measuring, which will stretch it or break it to bits. You are supposed to cut off just one section of the sleeve package to measure with and be gentle with the sleeve of Plastigage!
Is this to determine what size bearings to use? And also do you torque it with the original or new bearings? Or do you torture it with no bearings? Thanks!
At 4:38 you say .00098425 and claim it is 9 thousandths of and inch. With all due respect, with that number of zeros, isn't that reading supposed to be 9 tenths of a thousandths, or just round it up to 1 thousandths?
So i was following the repair manual i rounded up to 9 but now that i took a engine repair class it should've been .10000 this is hundreds thousand to 1500 and this is thousand basically the hundreds is a smaller clearance then the thousand
Thats how i normally do it to know my over all clearance in all of them.and you can spot a issue better bc you can have 2 journal to spec but 1 way to tight that could cause major engine damage
@geryl canonigo >Stat with the factory published specs for the year, make, model, engine size and even production date for the portion of the reciprocating assembly you need to measure. This will give you a range of loose to tight in both new and service limits. While “Plastigage” has been patented since the 40’s, GRN is the most common as it will reasonably measure clearance range of .001 to .003 thousands of an inch. RED .002-.006”, BLUE .004-.009”, YEL .009-.020”. Production specs for my LS connecting rod bearings new 0.0009-0.0025” which is very close, but all tight bearings equal higher warm oil pressure due to less leakage. The plastigage measured between .0015 (15 ten thousands) to under 0.001” (1 thousands). So take your calculator and use the tightest spec like mine is .0025” - .0012” = .0013” which is less than loose service spec of .003”. This is about 2.5 times tighter than the maximum spec. You can buy bearing .001” oversized or thicker. Just use one shell of each. It works best if both bearing sets are the same brand and you are picky, like me. This was done for decades using sheets of cold rolled shim stock place under the bearing. Hope this make since. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
What happens if the clearance is too much or too little?? Lets say a worn engine and the clearance is too big??? Do you have to put a new crank in?? is that what it tell you ??
Plastigauge is use to to tell you the amount of space between the crank and the bearings if the engine has a a lot of clearance must likely the bearings are worn out but the crank should be checked with a micrometer Better yet a machine shop to check the journals are in the allowed tolerance
Oversize clearance means you need undersize bearings. In that case you'd have the crank journals mic'd up and that might mean grinding or just polishing the journals.
Should be Re-Titled "HOW NOT To Use Plastigage in 1 min 5 seconds.. besides the Sealed Power Plastigage Brand your using is a knock-off of the original "PLASTIGAUGE" brand..
Cut it, don't pull it apart! If you pull it, it will stretch. Then it will be too thin, so when you torque the bearing cap down, it will look like the clearances are more than they really are.
First thing I saw! Guy does not know what he is doing. Griddle instead of girdle! Does not apply any silicone to one side and he handles the whole package of Plastigage when measuring, which will stretch it or break it. You are supposed to cut off one section of the sleeve package to measure with!
Great observation
Also, make sure you measure each journal. The reason you do this is because there is always a chance that one of the new bearings is the wrong size or the journal was machined incorrectly.
I like the way you stuck your thumb right in the way as you were measuring .
First thing I see is you stretching the Plastigage by tearing off a piece! I don't think you understand that it is supplied in an exact diameter for a reason. Griddle instead of girdle? You don't apply any silicone to one side and you handle the whole package of Plastigage when measuring, which will stretch it or break it to bits. You are supposed to cut off just one section of the sleeve package to measure with and be gentle with the sleeve of Plastigage!
Nice math dude and that torque wrench sound though. Your doing fantastic
Very helpful - thanks for sharing.
Is this to determine what size bearings to use? And also do you torque it with the original or new bearings? Or do you torture it with no bearings? Thanks!
At 4:38 you say .00098425 and claim it is 9 thousandths of and inch. With all due respect, with that number of zeros, isn't that reading supposed to be 9 tenths of a thousandths, or just round it up to 1 thousandths?
So i was following the repair manual i rounded up to 9 but now that i took a engine repair class it should've been .10000 this is hundreds thousand to 1500 and this is thousand basically the hundreds is a smaller clearance then the thousand
@@DtunedPerformance ok
That's what I came to say. Geez
9/10's of a thousand. .009 you got scrap.
it helps if you actually know what your talking about...pretty sure jiffy lube wont miss you if you went back to mcdonalds
Daddy biden gave me 17 an hour am McDonald's sold my tool box right away
so how do you know what bearings to order ?
Can you do this on multiple journals at once?
Thats how i normally do it to know my over all clearance in all of them.and you can spot a issue better bc you can have 2 journal to spec but 1 way to tight that could cause major engine damage
Not a guy I would be taking advice from about building engines.....
You name your engine after your user name 😉
Clean the block AND the griddle?? We making pancakes or what? Good information though.
he also twerked that griddle.
After a shit day this comment had me laughing
What .025mm main bearings did you go with?
Standard
@@DtunedPerformance Thought you measured .025mm?
@@1Man77 the arp main bolts changed the oil clearance
Does it have to be DTC?
so you leave the plastigauge in the journal after measuring?
I usually wipe if off with a rag and some brake cleaner
@@DtunedPerformance oh, ok. Thank you. i'm rebuilding my truck soon.
Thats good i love engimw rebuilds
thanks for sharing info. video. when do we know if that color of plastigauge match for an engine hope i got your answer sir.
On the Plasticgauge itself will say the clearances that it will work till but most of the time you wouls use the green color plasticgauge
@geryl canonigo >Stat with the factory published specs for the year, make, model, engine size and even production date for the portion of the reciprocating assembly you need to measure. This will give you a range of loose to tight in both new and service limits. While “Plastigage” has been patented since the 40’s, GRN is the most common as it will reasonably measure clearance range of .001 to .003 thousands of an inch. RED .002-.006”, BLUE .004-.009”, YEL .009-.020”.
Production specs for my LS connecting rod bearings new 0.0009-0.0025” which is very close, but all tight bearings equal higher warm oil pressure due to less leakage. The plastigage measured between .0015 (15 ten thousands) to under 0.001” (1 thousands). So take your calculator and use the tightest spec like mine is .0025” - .0012” = .0013” which is less than loose service spec of .003”. This is about 2.5 times tighter than the maximum spec. You can buy bearing .001” oversized or thicker. Just use one shell of each. It works best if both bearing sets are the same brand and you are picky, like me. This was done for decades using sheets of cold rolled shim stock place under the bearing. Hope this make since. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
What happens if the clearance is too much or too little?? Lets say a worn engine and the clearance is too big??? Do you have to put a new crank in?? is that what it tell you ??
Plastigauge is use to to tell you the amount of space between the crank and the bearings if the engine has a a lot of clearance must likely the bearings are worn out but the crank should be checked with a micrometer Better yet a machine shop to check the journals are in the allowed tolerance
Oversize clearance means you need undersize bearings. In that case you'd have the crank journals mic'd up and that might mean grinding or just polishing the journals.
Should be Re-Titled "HOW NOT To Use Plastigage in 1 min 5 seconds..
besides the Sealed Power Plastigage Brand your using is a knock-off of the original "PLASTIGAUGE" brand..
I second that ☝️
A video I can't hear ia worhtless
HE hides what he is doing during the measurement.
When you measured the plastigauge width, it was hidden by your fingers. Otherwise great video.
Why the gloves? The engine block got Corona🙃?
We don't need to see all the bolts being torqued.
Your volume sucks
Thanks man working on it